Every one and two-family dwelling must have an exterior emergency disconnect, regardless of how it is supplied. This requirement has been unchanged from the 2020 edition to the 2023 edition of the US National Electrical Code. All separate buildings have been required to have a Building Disconnecting Means for quite a few cycles now. Some safety people require an interlocked disconnect for the welding receptacle that prevents the cord from being plugged in or unplugged while the receptacle is live.
In my area, this is becoming more common. The best practice for installing a code-compliant 50A 240VAC welder plug outlet on an exterior wall is to run 6/3 90°C wire to the location from an. A requirement added to the NEC in 2008 states that balconies, decks, and porches that can be accessed from inside need to have a minimum of one receptacle outlet placed within.
To install a welding outlet, follow these steps: determine the power requirements of your welding machine, check the user’s power supply, match the voltage and amperage of the welder, minimize the risk of fire and electrocution, and ensure efficiency. If the disconnect is between the breaker and the receptacle, it doesn’t matter how big the fuses in the disconnect are.
The purpose of a disconnect switch or locking device on the breaker is to allow a craft or trade to “lockout/tagout” the equipment while it is being used. If an arc welder with an integral disconnect as part of the welder does not need another disconnect, just a feed off of a breaker is needed.
Plugging and unplugging has its own advantages, but it is essential to pull enough wire to handle a large load for any potential installation. A disconnecting switch or controller must be provided at or near each welding machine without a switch or controller mounted as an integral part of the machine.
📹 DIY WELDING OUTLET…..Step By Step Installation By An Electrician
Step by Step video to help the DIYer get this job done. There are many ways to do this installation depending on your setup.
Can you run a welder off a regular outlet?
It is a common practice for welders to operate on standard 115V or 120V household power. However, it is of the utmost importance to ascertain that the wiring in one’s residence is capable of safely running these tools and to ensure that the welds produced are of the highest quality. This will help to guarantee the safety and quality of the work carried out.
Where is a disconnect required?
In instances where the service entrance conductors do not terminate directly into the electrical panel mounted on the exterior of the residence, a main service disconnect is required.
Does a welder need GFCI?
The 2023 NEC® has accepted a public input requiring GFCI protection for all 125-volt, 15- and 20-ampere receptacles for electrical hand tools or portable lighting equipment, supplied by single-phase branch circuits rated 150 volts or less to ground, installed in work areas where welders are operated. This new code section aligns with Section 210. 8(B), which requires GFCI protection for receptacles in garages, accessory buildings, service bays, and similar areas.
What are the electrical requirements for welding?
The power supply is crucial when choosing a welding machine, as it determines the equipment you can use. A standard domestic 240V mains supply can work with a machine up to 110-130 amps, but larger machines require a 16 or 32A supply. Welding inverters above 250 amps require a 3 phase power supply, found in industrial units. Balancing welding time with machine cooling time is essential to find the perfect fit for your specific needs.
When buying a MIG welding machine, consider factors such as the size of the machine, the welding process, and the welding equipment’s capabilities. Research and consideration will help you find the perfect welder for your specific welding needs.
What type of outlet is needed for welding?
To operate a Lincoln Square Wave TIG 200 welder, a 240-volt plug is necessary, as the output power depends on the input power. This plug is typically installed in specialized settings like welding workshops or modified garage spaces. Switching to a 240-volt plug allows the Square Wave TIG 200 to reach its peak capability of 200 amps, ensuring efficient operation of heavy-duty welding equipment. Most consumer-grade welding equipment operates on a single-phase power supply, available through standard 120-volt or 240-volt outlets. However, industrial-grade machinery often requires a 3-phase power supply to meet higher power demands.
Does a welder need a disconnect?
It is imperative that the supply circuit be equipped with a disconnection mechanism for motor-generator arc welders and AC transformer and DC rectifier arc welders that lack an inherent disconnection feature. It is necessary to provide a switch or circuit breaker for the isolation of resistance welders and control equipment, with the ampere rating not exceeding the ampacity of the supply conductor.
Does a welder outlet need to be GFCI protected?
The 2023 NEC® has adopted a new code section requiring ground-fault circuit-interrupter (GFCI) protection for all 125-volt, 15- and 20-ampere receptacles for electrical hand tools or portable lighting equipment, supplied by single-phase branch circuits rated 150 volts or less to ground, installed in work areas where welders are operated. This change aligns with Section 210. 8(B), which requires GFCI protection for receptacles installed in garages, accessory buildings, service bays, and similar areas.
What size breaker do I need for a welding receptacle?
The circuit breaker most commonly utilized in conjunction with welder installations is a double-pole 60-ampere model, with feeder conductors of an appropriately sized gauge. Nevertheless, the 50-ampere rating is typically adequate for light-duty applications, which are typical of most workshop units.
What is the code for welding wire?
The AWS classification system provides a structured way to categorize MIG welding wires, which are essential for welding high-strength steels. Common Carbon Steel AWS MIG Wire Codes include E 81T1-Ni 1M-J, ER 100S-GCarbon Steel, ER 110S-GCarbon Steel, and ER 120S-GCarbon Steel. These codes help welders select the right wires for specific projects, ensuring they meet the required characteristics and quality. The AWS classification system helps in selecting the right wires for various applications, ensuring a clear selection process.
Do you need a disconnect on the outside of a commercial building?
The 2020 National Electrical Code (NEC) mandates an exterior emergency disconnect for one- and two-family dwelling units. This change ensures first responders have a suitable exterior disconnecting means in case of natural disasters, fires, or flooding. The new code language requires that a meter disconnect switch installed per 230. 82 should be marked “EMERGENCY SERVICE”. If using a readily accessible exterior service disconnect, the label must state: EMERGENCY DISCONNECT, SERVICE DISCONNECT.
Existing residential service installations will likely remain as they are, but new installations and service upgrades performed after the adoption of the 2020 NEC will require a readily accessible exterior emergency disconnect.
📹 Correcting 3 Mistakes On A 240V Outlet Install
Have learned a thing or 2 over the 5 years on YouTube after publishing 300+ videos and wanted to share the lessons learned on …
Great article…I like to use the NEMA L15-30 style in all my welding applications because they make the male and female in a plug setup that is way less bulky for making an extension cord and they are twist lock and hold up so much better than the dryer plugs. Also my shop has 3 phase power so I make sure I always color code my hots so that I can still use the same setup on single phase like off of my gas welders.
Thanks for the vid – great for a novice like me. One question, I have seen other vids that use the green ground screw on the back of the outlet for the white wire, and run that to the ground in the box. I noticed you didnt even use the white wire, and you also did not use the green ground screw on the outlet at all. Can you please explain why others would do it the way I explained? Thanks!
Is there a penalty for using a larger than needed wire size for a given breaker? Specifically, Im wondering if the increased resistance would cause more electricity to be consumed than needed with a wire size matching the breaker, leading to higher electric bill. I think my question shows Im clearly not an electrician. Thanks very much for this vid. 5 min in, I think my suspicions are confirmed that I should hire a pro rather than diy. IK Im handy enough to do the physical aspects, but the knowledge, which Im lacking, is key. Thanks again.
I’m doing this same short distance run inside my garage on a sub panel using 6/3 romex inside 3/4″ flex plastic conduit on a 50 amp breaker circuit but my friend (who has wired his own garage years ago and welds alot ) is telling me I need to use the white conductor as the ground on my 6-50 outlet and use the bare copper wire of the romex only as a ground to my outlet box. Thoughts?
From a Prior US Navy Nuc Electrician, Nicely Done, Very Nicely Done! A note to those doing this. Before you check the panel de-energized, first use your meter to check it energized. This is not for checking the panel, its for checking your meter so when it shows zero voltage you know its not due to it being broke! I’ve been lit up by 440v on my Sub, blew a section of skin right off.
Glad your funny bone was not too much on this one. Well said, I’m not an electrician, you man/explained it great. Can’t say it too many times. HIRE sand electrician, when needed. On another topic, where’s the Keystone girl? Did she fall down in the mud by the pond? Know, is just to dirty for YouTube? Hahaha, really enjoy your content.
this is very helpful however; I am having a hard time grasping why the earth ground is all that 220 needs and 110 uses the common white. I got 220 wire and it has red, black, white, and brass. I was presuming the brass goes to the box as it does with 110, the white would be the common for the two 110/ 220. Now I see the common is not used… I did not connect to the panel yet, I wonder what would have happened if I had connected the white to plug and panel common. Why is 220 so different from 110? Box outlet is ground to same ground as plug… to panel green / earth ground buss. I am having a hard time making sense of this…. but thanks for the article anyway.
Great article and sense of humor. Thumbs up and subscribed. Legit question, not trying to sound like a Karen. I’m getting ready to do this and just seen the 2020 NEC code (210.8(A)) requires gfci on 240 circuits in garages and accessory buildings. Do you live somewhere that hasn’t adopted 2020 code or is it because you said it was temporary? Do you plan on using a gfci breaker?
Great article, but I have a question … Why was there no #8 wire used for the Ground Plug on the receptacle? Couldn’t the unused white wire been taped green and used for the ground plug on the receptacle, and the other end connected to the ground bar in the panel? It seems the ground plug actually has no grounding…
What I understand about electricity is that in 110 you need the neutral wire (which is actually a ground) for the appliance to work…. But the 220 appliance does not use or need the ground or neutral to work. The ground wire does not go to the appliance just to the metal on the outside of the appliance. Is that true?
Cheers. Getting my shop plans worked out currently, including where to put some strategic 240s. As an electrician, does every 240v line require a circuit? I’m a one man shop – I can’t use two welders at once – but it might be handy to have, say, a main 240 in the shop and one outside for some stick work at another time. I imagine if I have a 240v compressor (down the road) I’ll give that one its own since it’ll come on and off at various times.
I appreciate this informative article. Been wondering why my 240v outlet in the shed is only putting out 120 on each leg but 0 when combined. I took apart the outlet and inspected/cleaned it thinking that was it but nope. I checked the 30 amp breaker. 120 on each leg and 240 combined so that checked out ok. I then noticed that someone attached both hot wires from the shed to only one 120v pole on the breaker. I’m no expert but that just didn’t make sense. Why would someone do that? Mistake maybe? IDK. The information in this article confirmed that in order to get 240V each wire has to connect to its own 120V breaker pole. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise. Liked and subbed.
Wow quite the perfect job wtg, I was just thinking of wiring a home built shed next to my garage today, I need to run about 35′ from the garage to the shed, well I have 6/2WG and a 50′ welding cable that is 6awg/4 wire, thinking the best option is the 6/2, best I can come up with is running it across the rafters then I have to drill through the garage into the shed so run it down from rafters through a connecting box and then down to the shed outlet? just subscribed very informative info your making.
I have this direct burial job coming up hooking up a welding plug in a shop 20ft away from main building. Guy has lots of space in his panel. I was thinking of running 240v 30amp from the panel in the main building running 10/2 NMDU direct burial to the shop to a 6-50R receptical. Guy has a metal shipping crate outside his place he uses as welding shop. As far as I could find in the books, I think everything is up to code but I was wondering if I’m missing anything. And if I should use a gfci breaker or regular one should be okay. I’d appreciate any insight you could provide.
I’ve done a fair bit of 120 and I’m getting ready to do the 240 for a welder and plasmas cutter. I’ve done a fair amount of research but a lot of the information is not consistent. Finally a article by an electrician. I don’t like the way I was going to add a second box just for the breakers for the 240 so I ordered a larger box to house all the breakers in the garage. I bought a pair of 30 amp breakers and I’m using 6/3 copper wire.
What would happen if you turned on your 240v welder, but 1 phase of your panel was out & u didn’t know, meaning it’s only receiving 120v on 1 side correct.? would that cook ur welder…? Just asking because ive had tht issue with my panel where i lost a phase, it only cut off some outlets etc, but if the welder was on when it happened, or i turned it on what would happen.! I’d cry if i wrecked tht welder……Ha -Also… I wired my Dual Volt 160amp Welder Old School Also for 240v Only btw… Only 3 wires, not 4…? 8 gauge… all i could afford, the wire isn’t cheap…
Great article ! My welder requires a single phase110V/220V grounded outlet protected by a 40A@110V/35A@220V circuit breaker. Is it safe to use the same breaker and wire you used or do you recommend something else ? My outlet is going to be installed in the garage about two feet under the panel. Thanks !
You tried a couple times at the beginning but only by the end you succeed, you make laugh.. “see that mom, I did something right”. I dont have a welding machine, nor a garage and still find this entertaining and useful! Good job keep at it, you have a sense humor that knows when to get serious and when to joke. Well I don’t laughing a lot for anything, so yeah. I enjoyed the clip! 👍
If you had to buy the vevor welder, would you? I’ve had a bad experience with a vevor fuel tank, and their customer support was terrible. If you had to choose between harbor freight and vevor welders, which would you choose? Also, this would be for someone who has never welded before. Thanks for a great, detailed article!
Great article. Love the action “expletives “. Question. I purchased a Harbor Freight dual voltage Titanium 225 welder and will be installing a 50 amp receptacle for the 240 option with #6 wire. I will be using an extension cord to extend my welder. I noticed the cord on the welder is 12 awg. I have a 30 amp #10 extension cord that I was planning to use after I change out the male and female plugs ends and I thought it was too small for the 50 amp circuit. But when considering the #12 cord to the welder why would I need anything larger than #10. I’m a bit confused why the welder has a 50 amp plug on #12 wire? I’m thinking I only need a max 30 amp breaker and the #10 wire extension should be plenty. I don’t know if they make a 20-25 amp double pole breaker. I just don’t want to overload the Titanium cord. Anyhow comments appreciated.
I hooked up my motorhome up to a 220 outlet by just using the one hot wire and ground on the 220 outlet and by doing that there was no wire on the 110 plug in connected to the ground just the two of them hooked up to power the appliances. And it worked giving me the 30 amps I needed for the motorhome. Even though it was a 50 amp breaker.
Kyle thanks for the showing us on how to install an outlet for electric welding.. I’m planning to install one too. My pro ble is where to buy the outlet as well as the male and female plug couse I’m planning to make an extention cord too.. will you inform me where I can order the things that I need.. more power. Thank you very much..
Awesome, well done with explanation, parts involved, camera & audio. Enjoyed the ending, did mom get the,message? Thanks for sharing. Grandson took his pretest for acceptance into the apprentice ship i& was told he scored above average so here’s hope for next fall Damn … five years, didn’t it used to be two? I mean isn’t five years the new marriage licensing? I really want to see the look on his face if he’s asked to go get the wire stretcher.
Not sure what that whole “machine” bit is about … first time I watch your vids… but you missed the last two 😂😂😂… great article… had my doubts with wiring the ground or neutral to that third plug… just did the connection for a dryer … it had the two hots and neutral … soooo … kinda threw me off … but … now I’m about to go make my connection… thank you sir
Great article! One question though, aren’t you not supposed to have combustible materials exposed inside j boxes? I do a lot of remodeling including cabinet installs and I always use tapered box extenders for outlets so that the exposed cuts of the cabinet can’t catch a spark from a short. You had a lot of info on not causing a short on the first place like making sure the box is packed well and no conductors behind the mounting screws. Wondering if there’s something different with the metal boxes.
I just bought a home with a 100 amp sub-panel in the detached garage. Can I install a 50 amp breaker in that sub-panel to feed a 240 volt receptacle for my old Lincoln tombstone welding machine (30 amp won’t do, the Lincoln needs 50 amp). I’m guessing that on a basic question like this there isn’t much variation in the codes. I’m in WA State if that matters. Thank you.
Thanks for this article, it helped me understand what to do with the extra neutral wire by simply putting a wire nut on it and leave the outlet as single phase 220. Unfortunately I wish had the Romex wire like you do because I don’t have a ground wire. Only the three wires. Two hots and a neutral. Is there a way around this you know of? Without replacing my entire walls and everything? Sorry its hillbilly
Where is your torque driver that is required to tighten all electrical screws & bolts that started be required 9 years ago in the 2014 NEC article 110.14? I never use POS Blue light special plastic wall cases. Go with far superior fiberglass boxes that has better fire rating or metal boxes. I a!ways installed at least one empty 3/4 to 11/4″ EMT conduit in flush mounted panels to above drop ceiling for future use.Would have drilled the walls the to not have a code violation because your wire is closer then 1.25″ to finished wall. So why did you not use say a 1900 cover to prevent a nail or screw to penetrate the 10/3 NM cable? At continuing education classes they break our balls every time we cal! the grounded conductor a neutral. Believe OSHA or others require approved proper PPE when working on an energized lanel. At least a tinted face shield, long sleeve PPE shirt & rubber gloves that were tested & date stamped every 12 months.
Here is a tip to pass along. My electrician installed my welder outlet sideways on purpose. He told me if installed right side up (the way you did), the plug will not hold as tight. When installed sideways, the weight of the cord puts a twist on the prongs to help them grip better than just a dead hanging tension. I have three 240V devices so I am often swapping out plugs to that one outlet and this is causing it to get loose, however, the plugs always stay put because of the outlet orientation helping to retain them.
Best 240-volt welding wire install I have seen on Youtube. You explained it well enough for me to understand the Home Depot electrical expert gave me the wrong information. You cannot install 12 gauge wire on a 25 amp breaker. I intended to use 10 gauge but he said not necessary. I subscribed as well.
Of course, there’s no mention of the insurance implications if for ANY reason the garage has a fire the insurance investigation finds YOU with no electrical license, wired this outlet, illegally in most places. Of course, no mention made your insurance company is NOT GOING TO PAY YOU AND THE MAFIA MORTGAGE FOR THE BURNED OUT HOUSE!
We try to use Hubble branded materials here for the RV hookups when we have to replace them. They are higher cost but last longer but they are not forever especially in our case here. On my trailer I use the Hubble twist lock stuff and I have built up a series of adapter cables and extensions which are more reliable and actually cheaper than buying from the RV retailers.
Great to see you’re taking feedback and recognising when something’s sub-optimal. With regards to the original install, Id did think the over-sized faceplate looked weird, and – as others have noted – possibly some form of wall bracing might be a good idea, as the you might end up pulling the socket off the wall… As always, great content.
Never bring the pipe into the center knockout in the box on such an installation. It should have been off to the side. That’s why you had to use the plate screws to draw the receptacle into the box, which is another no-no. Had the pipe been in the side ko and the wires properly formed, that receptacle would have floated into the box instead of pinching the wires.
Kudos and an A- overall. I am very familiar with Wago I sold it during my part time career in electrical for about 5 of my 37 years in the trade and used in in my custom panel designs as we were a fabricator and sold panel build parts to others. I do favor the larger Scotch 3M screw on connectors (a type of wire nut on steroids) for grounds. A ground needs to be able to achieve 5 ohms or better resistance however the Wago is a spring tension contact over a very small surface area of the ground conductor. Code states the ground conductor and obviously by extrapolation the connection must withstand the maximum available short circuit current impressed upon it in a short to ground (primarily) or a phase to phase fault (secondarily). Your Edison system configuration there at your home with a single phase HV 2 Bushing and LV 120/240 Transformer out in the yard or on the pole can typically deliver a max of about 6500 amps surge current when shorted before any one of several protective devices operate. I’d be interested to see if the Wago device is listed and labeled for an intended purpose of splicing ground conductors. A substantial ground even on a 50 amp outlet is important.
This is accurate advice. I made the mistake of installing a $20 outlet. It’s lasted about 4 years, but recently I’ve been limited to charging at about half the normal rate (or less) after a bit as the charger plugging into it is sensing more heat than should be present and automatically reducing the current as a safety precaution. I’m only running 6′ of 6 gauge from the service panel so it’s definitely the outlet itself that is not up to the task. I’ve got my replacement ready to go and will be changing it out this weekend. Definitely check the outlet your electrician is supplying. Many are not yet up to speed and will just install the cheaper, lower workload options out of ignorance. I had to change out one in a different location after the electrician installed it. Also, a company named Bryant sources their product from Hubbell; they are the same outlet. You may find the Bryant cheaper; I got mine for $65 each at a time when Hubbells were selling for about double that due to limited supply.
What is going to happen with the new codes is that all receptacles located in the garage will have to be GFCI protected, including the 50 amp car charger receptacles! The electric car manufacturer it is required for the installation. Tesla chargers the GFCI is built into the unit! The GFCI breaker is well over $100.00 . So that cost for installation of a car charger circuit will definitely be greater. And possibly we will also be installing an exhaust fan in the garage because of the gasses given off from charging these dumb electric cars.
First when you control if the power is off on 240 volt circuit is to check with a proper tester and be sure the two phases are OFF, and never trust someone telling you ” yeah breaker is off go ahead “, breaker could be faulty and only turn off one phases out of two and you don’t want to learn that the shocking way . Check the breaker connection also as they are often loose .
I’ve been installing EV chargers for several years now and I have never installed a plug-in EV charger and never will. Direct wire is the best option and should be required. The code is written in a way to minimize the use of plug-in type chargers but the manufacturers then started designing them in a way to get around this, so I suspect that the NEC will follow suit in the near future and rewrite that section to start requiring direct-wire in most cases. We’re not allowed to plug in central AC units or water heaters, for example, why should EV chargers be any different?
As I am very failure in torquing bolts, you need to either torques them down in steps say 50 inch pounds and then comeback and do 75 inch pounds or take them to 75 linch pounds once, back them off and re-torque them to 75 inch pounds. Heat, expansion and contraction are your enemies. Also, how many cycles are you looking for the NEMA 14-50? If you plugged and unplugged your heater 10 times a year a 1000 times would be 100 years of use. Do you not think the Eaton has been tested to thousands of cycles to meet UL requirements? The proper connections are what is important. The commercial NEMA 14-50 is tested to a much higher standard as its duty cycle might be 50X/day.
If your electrical panel this circuit is on supports CAFCI breakers you may want to switch to that type of breaker (older panels don’t support this breaker type). It will trip if there are arc faults in the circuit, one reason that EV outlets get hot and/or melt under prolonged use EV’s put on them. You will want a CAFCI breaker and NOT a combo CAFCI/GFCI breaker. GFCI’s will cause nuisance tripping. youtube.com/watch?v=E3rTqsL-CRU
Just in my personal experience, I always check both hots just to make sure. You are only checking one and assuming that the other one is also off. Unless you also checked the panel to be sure both are terminating to the same breaker, then it only takes a fraction of a second to check both leads with your non contact tester. I am sure everyone has a horror story of his something was miswired or jury rigged in the panel box that causes a safety issue at the outlet
Actually, the two hot leads are both sides of a SINGLE PHASE in a proper 240 volt distribution, and the white the white grounded conductor only conducts the difference between the draw on either side of the phase. Each side, red and black are 180 degrees from each other, indicating they are either side of a single phase to ground, whereas each PHASE of a real three phase circuit is 120 degrees out of synch with the next phase. Of course, if we are talking a cheap take off from 3 phase distribution, using a delta / star transformer, the red and black wires will appear 120 degrees out of phase on an oscilloscope, and depending on the tapping of the transformer windings, may actually only be 208 volts between them, while each still appearing about 120 to ground, because of the phase discrepancy.
So the rework of this and the torquing brings up a question – given the cables being multi thread – why no ferrules on the cable ends, which is the usual best practice for multistrand cables being clamped down by screw fittings. I think it may not be needed due to the way the terminal clamps in the Hubble outlet secure the cable – that is they act ferrule like by eliminating the issue a ferrule is mostly called for. Explicitly addressing this issue would be good.
Ah, you lost me when you said the Hubble has Allen screw terminals… I absolutely hate having to use Allen keys. You can never find the right one, you can never get them to fit where you want to go and they’re a pain to use. Sorry for the complaint, I did enjoy the article and I apologize for the negativity
Typically the best way to ensure they are tightened properly is to 1) tighten the lug. 2) move the line around a bit. 3) loosen the lug again and reseat it 4) tighten the lug again 5) check to ensure they do not move. 6) torque them to spec checking twice. Stranded cable tends to compress in odd configurations so engaging and then releasing the terminal almost always insures the terminal connection has compressed as much of the contact area on strands as possible.
EMT conduit can be used as a grounding conductor, per 250.118, as long as it extends all the way to the main panel or if used with NM cable (romex), there is junction box that is grounded with NM to the main panel. One can check continuity from the box and the main panel with the multi-meter. 250.118 states that electrical metallic tubing (EMT) are permitted as an Equipment Grounding Conductor.
All good, but save the bucks and make a NEMA 14-50R to NEMA 14-50P patch cable for $35. ($15 for either end and $5 for one foot of 10-3 wire.) Plug it into the “cheap” $20 receptalce, and plug things into it. If the patch receptacle goes bad, you can replace it five times over and still make out cheaper than the $110 one. If you’re feeling really frisky, add $15 and make it into a NEMA14-50P to 2xNEMA14-50Rs and plug your EV charger into one side and any other appliance (space heater) to the other. Don’t use them at the same time. Zero plugging and unplugging after the first time. They’ll last forever. Total cost = 1x NEMA14-50P, 2xNEMA14-50R, and 2ft 10-3 cable. $30. Much cheaper than one Hubbell, and zero plugging and unplugging, and one time wiring.
wired an outlet for a range/oven. I screwed the box on a beam and then flush with the drywall(like most standard outlets) can you do tihs or must you have the box exposed for a range? (as in not flush with the drywall) The range I am looking at is called the “Summit Appliance” 20″ 3.2 cubic feet. Sold at Home Depot and Amazon. also indicates “2 inches from wall”(or some vague picture-does not actually say much else.)
The Raco 813C has a 2.625″ hole, so is not the correct cover for a Hubbell 9450A (which is 2.465″). The correct size plate is the Thomas & Betts RS1430 or Raco 816C and have a 2.465″ hole. Unfortunately, a lot of vendors seem to think they are interchangeable, so will send you the Raco 813C even if you order the RS1430. I had two vendors send the 813C when I ordered the RS1430 (both returned), and have ordered a RS1430 from a big electrical supply house, and should see in a week if they get it right.
Can you GUARANTY that everything that is going to be plugged in to that receptacle will be switched OFF ? If not there should be a switch installed next to the plug. Plugging /unplugging heavy draw (50 Amps?! ) under load,will damage the blades of the plug and receptacle very quickly!! Just ask an RVer, or RV park owner!
The maximum charging rating for GM’s Cadillac Lyriq is 19.2 kW. Because I want to install a Level 2 circuit that will take full advantage of this charging capability, at 240 VAC that means 80 amps. I assume the Hubbell 9450A receptacle, which is rated at 50 amps, is insufficient for that level of charging. Is it possible to produce a article showing such an installation? Thank you for producing the above article that correctly identifies three very egregious mistakes to watch for in a very safety-related installation. BTW, I both liked and subscribed, and I rarely do that with other presenters.
Thank you for article. Few questions: 1. I see you use 3 wire and ground, but many-many other installation articles says that enough to use 2 wire and ground because anyway Tesla charger does not use neutral wire. They leave neutral connection free 2. Many people suggest to use 6 gauge cable for Tesla wall connector with 60Amp breaker. ONLY in one article it says that it is code violation in US, because 6 gauge cable certified to use up to 55 Amp and wire certification must to be higher than breaker. So with 60 Amp breaker should go 4 gauge wire. What do you think about it ?
The point of the torque is to not only prevent under torque, but over torque which is a problem as well. If you tighten to the point (with L shaped allen) that it immediately clicks with the torque screwdriver, then you likely over torqued your lugs. It has a range that you should go by. Over torque is bad for the conductor as well.
My comments from the first article: You call yourself a “pro” but you are a hack. (referring to the so called electrician) “Mindful of safety”? You aren’t even wearing eye protection or gloves. Installing the breaker in a live panel. “probably’ want to turn of the main? I noticed you grounded your hand nicely on the can while installing the breaker. Telling people to remove KO’s at the top of a live panel. It could easily fall into the bus. You ever seen a 200 amp panel explode? Putting cable in pipe, a real home handyman method. A handyman hacksaw. Saying it’s ok to not have the pipe fully seated in a fitting. Using a fishtape in a live panel. Using a mudring and a wallplate instead of an industrial cover. The conduit and the box are not grounded. Exceeded the fill for the pipe and LB. I would have cut in a metal wallcase at the top of the wall, run flex to the panel and come out of the wallcase with a 4” square box with a one or two gang cutout in the back and continued with the EMT. I probably would have fired you for just the safety violations. Trust Me 1 year ago AND it REQUIRES a GFCI not to mention you said nothing about a permit or an inspection or that homeowners may not be allowed to do electrical work in their jurisdiction. You’re not only fired (again, the original electrician) for all the safety violations but also for all the code violations. As for todays article, the grounding is corrected though not how I would do it. You didn’t mention the lack of a GFCI breaker that is required.
In the first second of the article, where’s the on/off switch? Second why does the USA use Two Phase 240 volts instead of Single Phase 240 volts like the rest of the world? Even when connecting caravans (Trailer-homes) we use an outdoor plug and socket system, even they are switched via a MCB! Also why are only the shower-room, kitchen and laundry have RCD’s and not the rest of the house in the USA?
You’re so wrong, you need to invest in a NEC code book, because you are completely confusing many people.Go to nec article 250.146 (a) it’s talking about surface mounted boxes. You need to read this and hopefully you will learn from your mistakes. And then explain exactly what the nec says on your post so the apprentice won’t be confused.
Installed 10,000+ outlets and well over 1,000 of those being 208 or 240 30A and bigger. Never once used a tork screwdriver😂 definitely won’t be using one as a professional. It’s the equivalent of demanding your painter tape every single thing they are cutting in, instead of letting them be a professional and use the skill they have and cut in the edges without taping them because they can. But it’s your home, you do you. I’ve just never seen a union guys use a tork screwdriver, so good luck finding some Electrician to whip out a tork screwdriver at your home.
Thanks for the article and previous which I watched. Question is with outlet box located so close to garage doors, isn’t the breaker servicing this outlet supposed to be GFI protected?… I’m no expert but as far as I know garage electrical outlets located within 6 ft of outdoors must be GFI protected… I’ve added GFI protection to all outlets I’ve added in my garage just to be safe… Thanks!…
Happened to me at my house. The previous owner had run a 12 awg Romex line to a 6-50 welder outlet. Plugged my welder in it and blew the welder off the ground about a foot when all the wires melted together. Luckily it was enclosed in a conduit but very dangerous, glad I found it and not someone else. Granted I should have verified the wire gauge prior to trying to load it but I know to look now. Make sure to verify the wire gauge on any high amp outlet prior to use
Kinda dumb question, my current 240 metal box cover does not fit the standard Neocharge ( EV smart splitter) mounting bracket predrilled holes, does it matter if I go get a box cover from homedepot and simply switch the covers so the neocharge came be mounted? I think I could also just drill homes in the cover but not sure this is ok… thank you for the help…
Not sure about the Code as it applies to EVs and their charging. I would think that to MAXIMIZE the life of the receptacle, you would want the charging current to be stopped BEFORE unplugging the cord. This may not be an issue. I have no idea about electric cars. In the electric forklift world, they want the current stopped before unplugging the battery from the charger. Of course forklift chargers can go as high as 100 amps at 48 volts. In the industrial side of the code, you cannot hook a motor up to a non mechanically interlock quick disconnect. This would seem to be overkill for this application but the real test is what does the instruction manual of the charger say. For it supersedes what the code may allow. A part of the code is that the equipment in question, MUST be installed in accordance with the manufacture’s instructions. You might end up with two outlets on the same circuit. Just can’t reduce wire size without overcurrent protection on the smaller size wire.
Ugh, the ground is so typically stupid of electrical codes… I just went through this wiring 3 light switches in a 3-gang metal box (replacing some knob & tube). It’s a metal box. The outlet ground screw is directly connected to its metal frame. The metal frame of the device is screwed tightly into the metal box. Everything is at the same potential so why do you have to connect that ground wire to two locations?? Just connecting it to the box will ground the outlet, enclosure and all of the conduit. The redundancy is unnecessary, crowds the box and I think it’s dumb. Fight me.
Those ground connectors are junk. You should have kept the full ground wire length and taken it to the electrical box first, before coming out to the outlet (all as a single uninterrupted/non-cut wire). Also really need to make sure you secure that box to your wall if you are going to be plugging/unplugging often. Might also want a plastic bushing on the electrical box conduit fitting to prevent the wires from rubbing on the metal fitting and shorting out. Make sure your box screws have coarse thread and are affixed into structure, not (possibly) drywall anchors or something weak. When you screw in the face plate, your box wiggles against the wall, so not sure if that box is very secure.