The Home Depot offers a wide range of plumbing services, including frozen pipes, burst pipes, toilet plumbing, tub or shower repair, faucet repair, sink plumbing, garbage disposal repair, drain cleaning and repair, water leaks, sewer and gas line repair, and other emergency plumbing services. Their local, licensed, and background-checked technicians can repair all makes and models of garage doors and openers.
If you suspect your home’s sewer line is damaged, it is essential to request a professional inspection. A technician will thread a digital camera into the pipe to inspect the damage. On average, it costs around $6,000 to replace 40 linear feet of sewer line, but the cost could range between $2,000 and $10,000 depending on factors like the cost of the sewer line.
The Home Depot also provides same-day repair for emergency plumbing needs, as long as you live within 30 miles of your local service provider. They can also repair frozen, burst or leaking pipes, clogged drains, and sewer and gas lines.
The Home Depot has received high ratings from customers, with 78 of them recommending their services. They are not contractually obligated to work with Home Depot jobs they are given, but pay a fee to be on the list.
For plumbing projects, The Home Depot is a one-stop resource for unclogging drains, replacing pipe fittings and valves, or repairing other toilet parts. They also offer bathroom vanity installation and sink installation services.
📹 Here’s Why “S-TRAPS” Are NOT ALLOWED Anymore! (And 3 Ways To Fix It) | GOT2LEARN
Here’s why s-traps are illegal now and 3 different ways you can go about fixing it if it’s causing you problems! Join my plumbing …
How much does a plumber charge to fix a leaky bathroom faucet?
The average national cost to fix a leaking faucet is around $275, with actual costs ranging from $125 to $426. Most faucet leaks are not emergencies and can be repaired at your convenience. However, it’s better to repair faucet leaks sooner to avoid potential water waste. Plumbers charge $50 to $200 hourly for faucet leak repairs, which can take less than an hour to 1. 5 hours per faucet, depending on the complexity and skill required.
Labor costs and parts costs may also be included. If you want a specific faucet or type installed, be prepared to pay for it. Alternatively, hiring a handyperson for simple faucet leaks can save money.
How long does it take a plumber to replace a faucet?
The replacement of a bathroom faucet by a professional plumber typically requires between one and two hours, depending on the age and condition of the plumbing. In some cases, additional repairs or upgrades may be necessary to ensure proper function.
Do I need a plumber to fix a leaky faucet?
Assess the severity of a leak to prevent water wastage and identify underlying issues within the plumbing system. If the leak persists despite attempts to tighten or replace washers, professional intervention is necessary. Check the type of faucet, as modern faucets can be complex and require specialized knowledge to repair or replace. Attempting a DIY fix on a sophisticated faucet can exacerbate the problem and potentially damage the fixture. Call a qualified plumber if the leak is accompanied by other symptoms like low water pressure, strange noises, or visible signs of water damage.
These indicators may indicate more significant issues within the plumbing system, such as pipe corrosion, blockages, or hidden leaks. Ignoring these warning signs or attempting DIY repairs can lead to costly water damage and structural issues in the long run.
How much does Home Depot charge to replace a bathroom faucet?
The average cost for installing a kitchen faucet is $120 to $250, while replacing a bathroom or bathtub faucet is $150 to $400. Home Depot and Lowe’s faucet installation costs $119 and up. A bathroom or kitchen sink and faucet combo costs $400 to $1, 000. Faucet installation costs $120 to $300, including removing and replacing an old faucet and adjusting the water lines. Labor costs for installation or replacement are $45 to $150 per hour, with plumbers charging for an hour or two. Faucet prices alone average $100 to $350. Old, broken, or rusted faucets cost more to remove.
Does Home Depot fix tools?
While Home Depot stores do accept tool repair projects, it should be noted that not all have the ability to repair tools on-site. If a tool is taken to a store with a tool rental center, the repair process will take approximately two to three weeks. However, if the store does not have a tool rental center, the tool will be shipped to an offsite location, which will prolong the repair time to four to six weeks.
What are the three types of repairs?
Maintenance management consists of three main types: emergency repairs, routine maintenance, and major overhauls or capital repairs. Emergency repairs are unscheduled and occur when equipment fails or malfunctions, posing immediate risks to safety, production, or operations. They are urgent and require immediate response to minimize downtime and damage. Routine maintenance involves planned, periodic tasks to maintain optimal equipment condition and prevent unexpected failures.
These tasks may include inspections, lubrication, cleaning, and minor adjustments performed at regular intervals. Routine maintenance helps identify potential issues before they escalate into major problems, improving equipment reliability and longevity.
Is it cheaper to repair or replace a faucet?
Certain parts of your faucet, such as the O-ring or washer, can wear down over time, causing leaks. Professional plumbers can quickly identify and fix these issues, extending the lifespan of your faucet. Repairing leaky faucets is more cost-effective, especially for high-end models. Mineral deposits buildup on the valve set can also cause leaks. A professionally trained plumber can clean this, provided it is not severe.
Severe corroded faucets can lead to leaks, sputtering, and other malfunctions, contaminating water and making it unsafe to drink. While minor faucet corrosion can be managed with regular maintenance, severe corrosion cannot be reversed and may require replacement.
What are the 3 examples of repair?
He repairs clocks; an old lawn mower is not a suitable item for repair; and she repaired an old chest. Despite undergoing surgery to repair a torn ligament in his knee, the patient’s condition remained irremediable. Given the extent of the damage, it was not feasible to repair the item in question, necessitating the purchase of a new vehicle.
Can I exchange a broken tool at Home Depot?
The Home Depot allows the majority of merchandise returns within 90 days of the original purchase date, provided that the customer can provide proof of purchase. Exceptions to this policy may be made at the discretion of the store management. Nevertheless, the establishment reserves the right to decline returns for defects that are not the result of manufacturing, damage caused by the customer, or in cases where fraud or abuse is suspected.
What is the depot repair process?
The Depot Repair system oversees the entirety of the repair process, from the receipt of parts within the inventory to their subsequent delivery back to the customer or installation of the repaired inventory.
How much do plumbers charge to change a tap?
The cost of replacing basin, mixer, bath, kitchen, and Quooker kitchen taps varies between £140-£240. The installation of an outdoor tap can make outdoor activities more convenient, such as washing the car or cleaning the patio, and reduce the need for trips to the kitchen to water plants. Additionally, having a hose attached to the tap can make filling up an outdoor hot tub or paddling pool more efficient. The cost of a plumber to replace taps (labour only) ranges from £80-£200. Overall, installing an outdoor tap can make a home more convenient and efficient.
📹 Plumbing Camera – shows pipe needs sewer line repair
Brian Cooke of Marin Plumbing explains how advance diagnostic techniques helps diagnose persistent plumbing issues. In this …
My bath has a P-trap here in the UK and it’s utter crap. Due to the fact the water drains away along a horizontal portion of pipe the flow rate out of the bath is ridiculously low (like hours to drain) and often water tends to stay inside the horizontal pipe afterwards. It’s also CONSTANTLY getting blocked due to that stationary water, debris and the fact our water is so hard in my town. I don’t know if the horizontal section is TOO level and needs to have its grade increased or if they’re meant to be that level? Either way I’m considering ripping it out and replacing it with an S-trap dropping down into the floor before a decent grade horizontally to the main downpipe, so it can actually utilise gravity properly to drain and not get blocked so easily – as (for me) drainage plumbing is SUPPOSED to do! You would have thought with a decent sized straight-pipe leading up through the roof any gases inside would go straight up and out, rather than traversing all the way to the S-trap, since gases tend to follow the path of least resistance?
Besides S traps, there is yet another type of trap, the drum trap, that you may come across in homes more than 65 years old. For those who don’t know, drum traps are most commonly found in bathrooms, although they are sometimes found in other areas of the home as well, and are easily recognized by the presence of a clean out plug on the bathroom floor next to the bathtub, and sometimes the sink drains into it as well. The problem with drum traps was they are not self-scouring, they were supposed to be cleaned out regularly by the homeowner but more often than not weren’t, and suffered from frequent clogs as hair, dead skin and soap scum settle to the bottom. They were often made of lead, which gets brittle with age and attempts to remove the clean out with a pipe wrench can fracture it and now you have a much bigger problem on your hands. The clean out is sometimes on the bottom, accessed in the basement. Another telltale sign of a drum trap is the sink next to the tub and the toilet at the other end of the bathroom in an old house.
Theres a whole lot of comments from people who have no idea what they are talking about. That blockage was toilet paper and ‘flushable’ wipes that got caught at a bad joint. After the blockage is cleared out completely you can see that the joint is offset to the side. No real plumber would ever install a section of 3″ pipe in the middle of a 4″ line, this is going to cause reoccurring blockages at the bottleneck, and/or the craptastic joint where this blockage was. Another clue they weren’t a real plumber is the bad joint its self where the pipe is transitioning back to 4″. There are 2 options here, keep snaking it out every 6 months or replace the piece of 3″ with 4″. I would do PVC myself, the cast iron we get down here in florida just doesnt last. Replacing 4 feet of pipe burried under someones front yard will cost about as much as having it snaked out twice, the real crooks are the plumbers who dont want to make a permenant fix. Lots of shady plumbers survive solely off a clientele of people who call once or twice or 7 times a year who are led to believe ‘this is part of the cost of living in this home’. I’m no longer a plumber, I do article sewer inspections for a living and pride myself on telling every customer the truth.
Wow, that camera was fascinating. Makes me want to get one of my own and go visiting the neighborhood to see what everybody’s been eating, maybe become a weekend scatologist. I see your camera had a microphone. I think I’d add a loud speaker for some late night spooking. This won’t only open drains, it’ll open doors to new crap! Ok, seriously, very informative. My house is approaching 60 years and most of the work I’ve seen was clearly weekender if not “weekender with bad attitude”. Had to rebuild 1½ bath in this place. Set out to replace rotten flooring discovered vertical studs hollow from termites. One question, why are you still using cast iron these days? Everybody I’ve talked to pushes PVC. From what I’ve read the life expectancy is 40-50 years for PVC as opposed to 50-60 for cast iron. Considering the cost and weight I’m surprised to hear you’re doing iron.
why in the hell would you replace the line with cast iron????? Ive been doing this for over 15 years and thats the stupidest thing Ive ever heard!!!! DWV PVC is 1/3 of the cost and a much better way to go, and it would out last cast iron pipe 3 fold!! The only time I would ever replace cast iron with cast iron is in a commercial building due to fire ratings such as a hospital. And why do you have to replace the whole line? Have you not heard of spot repairs? If the customer still has a good amount of life left in the remaining pipe, then at least offer the guy options!
Dig up and use 10′ cast iron pipe for replacement? Looking for a payday. Use a pipe locator on the camera cable. Locate the exact position to the foot above what looks to me like a cracked pipe with root intrusion which then captures the grease. This way you minimize the trench size 3’x4′. Cut and replace a 12″-18″ section with ABS. Camera in the pipe makes roots look huge. Little fine roots around the seams are normal. It’s the gnarly brown tree roots that will cause backups. Use root killer or copper sulfate crystals once a year to control them.
I’ve cleaned a lot of sewers, and aside from the pipe being reduced, this looks like a very clean sewer line that did not need repairs or replacing. The blockage you found was common, The camera is a great tool, but you should also invest in the proper cutters for your snake. If you had cleaned it out using the correct size cutter instead of a retriever, you probably would have got it the first time and not had to come back 5 times. New Cutter $35.00 Camera system $3000 +.
Bad drain…hahahahaha! This is a very clean line other then joint to a small pipe…there is very little issues. That blob is just grease and although most clean out costs are a bit of rip off I would recommend the more expensive jet/cut. Once we had that done our problems were diminished greatly. These guys make an hourly as good as my dentist! You others saying the other guy is a dumb…he’s clearly the “guy on the street” question or the homeowner like guy and his questions are comparable to what any non pro would ask. If you think the questions are dumb then you most likely are always the smartest guy in the room..even when you are not!
Came to look at sewer articles to get a better handle on what’s going on in our house. We’ve been smelling a funky old water smell for several weeks and never thought of looking in the basement to discover that the sewer had backed up. Had it cleaned by a sewer and drain specialist yesterday, then scoped by a plumber. We’ve had the sewer cleaned numerous times over the years we’ve lived here. Never thought to have the camera done but glad we did. Turns out we have a cast iron pipe to the boulevard at which point it switches to clay pipes going out to the manhole. Our part is in good shape but the city pipes have collapsed about 4-5 feet from the manhole. To think of how far everything has been backing up is disgusting. What’s even more disgusting is to be told that property owners are responsible for paying for repair from the house to the manhole. I don’t know how municipalities can get away with that. We currently have been told not to flush solids down the line. Wondering if anyone has any comments on how to proceed with the city.
Sewer lines are so unpredictable if you are called to cable or jet you need to put a camera in and see what caused the issue not come back every so often to fix it there’s obviously a damn problem get the spot fixed with excavation or trench less replacement. There’s so many companies boring now a days and they somehow manage to find your sewer line inspect your lines!!
Very good article and excellent commentary. I have the same problem…every 6 months gotta snake my sewer line. 2 foot clay tile 4″ diameter lateral. 100 foot run to street. belly 15-20 feet from my house and goes about 40 feet! water in my sewer line! My house was built in 1931. 88 year old sewer line. time for a new one. its 10-11 feet deep. my sewer guys charge $12,000 to replace. gotta dig up old line. gotta cut through brick patio, 12 feet of asphalt driveway and a sidewalk, plants etc…will back file with 2-3 stone (all way updriveway patio and sidewalk). tamp it does as they go.
As a plumber the problem was with the reduced pipe and then after that there was a cracked fitting behind the toilet paper build up all that was needed was a repair not a replacement of the drain line. But cast iron for replaceing clay you might as well put Orangeburg down there pvc is the way to go and no couplings sc 40 with the bigggggg bell ends no tree root is getting through that but that’s just my 2 cents
I am in the middle of NOWHERE NEVADA…man do I wish you were here!!! The camera is something EVERY SINGLE Plummer should have in todays modern techno world. I am going to insist that the next time my drain gets a clog, the OVER PRICED DE-CLOGER GUY better stop putter ALL of his profits in his pocket and invest in a CAMERA!
I’ve never been on a job where the plumbers went DOWN a pipe size downstream. That being said, the blockage was not at the reduction. I suspect that the plumber(s) NEVER did anything (until this article) but poke a hole in the blockage every six months. Before cameras,. it is a known fact that if you snake back and forth for an hour (on a pain in the rear jobsite)…chances are you will NOT be coming back in six months. But if you just clear the blockage (or in this case,..poke a hole in it so you can call it good) and leave,..you will be back sooner. If it was my house, I would dig it up and redo it,..but then, my labor and backhoe are free because I own them.
Thanks for the article. I am curious-With the camera AND snake in the pipe at the same time, what was the state of the camera push cable after the procedure? Did all that thrashing about damage the camera cable? I’d be very nervous about putting my 3000 dollar camera in the waste line with my 1/2 in snake and cutter……Let me know. cheers
Spartans are for punks who can’t handle torque! Gorlitz & Dura Cable are for professional sewer cleaners that have the experience to use these “most effective” machines. A spring coil or hook on the end of your cable is ridiculous! Full sized cutting blades for various applications would have cleared that little shit ball and given him a better perspective on what was going on with the sewer….
Granted the plumbing done was improper, but you are certainly not gonna stop tree roots. I don’t know what that white plant was, but the pipe sweats and the roots of any plant will wrap around the pipe, and if strong enough will break into the pipe. No stainless steal or rubber coupling is going to stop that. Granted there are some ways to get around it, but rather expensive.
Drano would be a good $10.00 you threw to the curb. After it’s finished compromising your seals and the integrity of the bottom of your pipe, it will cost you thousands to replace them prematurely…..If there was a drain cleaner more effective than your plunger, I would be in another business! After 44 years I haven’t seen any drain cleaner with instant results. A maintenance program with a bio clean solution would be more effective and safer for the environment as well as your pipes!
Respond to this article… pipe and just got caked on. Ha -ha yes I agree with you that is indeed stupid reducing the pipe, but I can’t say I haven’t witnessed this myself. Normally the builder or contractor whoever it may be didn’t have the money, or made due with what they had. Or it could have just been a repair and they didn’t care. 😀
@millwrightman99 Don’t matter about the joints. Joints are just an easy early access point. Like i said the pipe sweats. like condensation on a glass. It doesn’t matter what the pipes made out of. I’ve seen roots go through cast iron many cases. 🙂 They were older buildings but still roots got in. — Side question What camera are you using? — Also I believe it’s toilet paper or paper towels with your clog there… I wonder if the customer went on vacation or something and that sat in the
A drain cleaning machine when used properly by a professional operator who has an instinct on what bend or attachment he should use in a certain situation, will clear your stoppage, remove the hair and flush the scum through your system. It takes years of experience in knowing what to do and identify the circumstance. When you watch an experienced drain cleaner clear your drain, it looks very simple! The truth is it’s not going to be for you! Pay a couple hundred bucks and get it over with!