Doing It Right Roofing, Siding, and Remodeling LLC is a local company that has been providing high-quality lifetime roofing systems to homes and businesses in the greater South Sound area since 2011. The company specializes in residential, commercial, and metal roofs. With a top-tier reputation among Allegheny County roofing companies, Doing It Right Roofing is known for its dedication to excellence and ensuring that every job is done correctly.
The company has received positive reviews from customers, who have trusted them with their roofing and siding since 1984. They offer top-quality residential and commercial roof installations in South Sound and have been trusted by Pittsburgh locals since 1984. To get a free quote, customers can contact Doing It Right at 351-0499.
Doing It Right is proud to be a top asphalt roofing and vinyl siding contractor in Pittsburgh. They also offer services in Tacoma, WA, and Goshen, IN, including leak repair and new roof installation. As an esteemed Owens Corning Platinum Preferred Contractor, Doing It Right Construction takes pride in delivering exceptional quality and service in roofing, siding, and remodeling.
In summary, Doing It Right Roofing, Siding, and Remodeling LLC is a trusted name in the Pittsburgh area, offering top-quality roofing services for residential, commercial, and metal roofs. Their commitment to excellence and customer satisfaction has earned them a top-tier reputation among roofing companies in Allegheny County.
📹 What Roof Is Best For Your Home? Architectural Shingles vs Metal Roofing
Trying to decide what roofing to use for your home build? You’re likely looking at Steel vs Asphalt shingles. In this video we’ll be …
Can you Reshingle over old shingles?
The installation of new shingles over an existing asphalt shingle roof, a process known as a nail-over reroof, is feasible under specific conditions. The roof must be approaching the end of its lifespan, exhibiting a flat profile with minimal penetrations, flashing, and no butt-up walls. It is not feasible to perform a nail-over reroof on the majority of roofs. However, a roof inspection conducted by a local roofing contractor can ascertain the suitability of the roof in question.
How often should you Reshingle your roof?
Asphalt shingles typically last around 80-85% of their lifespan, with 3-tab shingles lasting around 20 years and architectural shingles around 25 years. Luxury shingles, which are thicker, can last up to 30 years. Standing seam metal roofs, which consist of mechanically sealed panels, are recommended for residential use due to their ability to expand and contract freely when the metal heats up and cools down, ensuring a longer lifespan. In perfect conditions, these shingles can extend their lifespan even further.
Is it cheaper to put new shingles over old shingles?
Installing new asphalt shingles over a roof is often cheaper than a full roof replacement due to the cost savings it offers. This method bypasses the entire roof replacement process and roofing components, reducing labor and material costs. However, if a full roof replacement is the only option, investing in quality is crucial over the cheapest price. Therefore, homeowners should prioritize quality over affordability when considering a nail-over roof.
Will a new roof make my house look better?
A new roof can significantly improve a home’s curb appeal by removing algae streaks, faded shingles, or missing shingles. It also allows for better color coordination, as the chosen color matches the home’s architecture and color palette, making it stand out in the neighborhood. Additionally, a roof replacement can enhance the architectural features of a home by exploring different styles and adding unique features that enhance its character.
Is re roofing a good idea?
Re-roofing is a method of replacing an existing roof by placing a second layer of shingles on top. This process, also known as recovering, saves on replacement costs and labor, as the existing roof doesn’t need to be torn off. Additionally, re-roofing can result in significant savings on materials, especially for flat and low-pitched roofs, which typically consist of three layers. This alternative to complete roof replacement is often more cost-effective and time-efficient.
What is the difference between re roof and roof replacement?
Re-roofing and roof replacement are two distinct methods for maintaining or repairing a building’s roof. Re-roofing involves applying a new layer of roofing material over the existing one, while roof replacement involves completely removing the existing layer and replacing it with new materials. The choice between re-roofing and roof replacement depends on the existing roof’s condition and its ability to accept another layer.
Re-roofing can be an economical way to extend the roof’s lifespan without replacing it entirely. It can also be used as part of routine maintenance to protect the underlying structures from weather damage.
What color roof increases home value?
Research indicates that roof color significantly impacts potential home buyers, with over 90% of consumers valuing a color that complements the exterior. Neutral-colored roofs, such as tan, brown, black, and gray, have good resale value. The roof’s energy efficiency is also crucial, as it regulates the temperature inside the home. Dark roofs absorb heat, increasing the surface temperature, which can lead to higher indoor temperatures. This can result in increased air conditioning needs and higher cooling costs in hot climates. Therefore, choosing the right roof color is crucial for a comfortable home.
What color roof makes a house look bigger?
Asphalt shingles can enhance or hide aspects of a home, such as size and positive features, while darker colors can hide imperfections and create focus. They also protect and enhance various structures like detached garages, tool sheds, barns, guest houses, gazebos, and dog houses. The grey and brown color blend is an excellent choice for an outdoor structure, considering its siding, wood beam accents, and stone facing.
Is getting a new roof messy?
Getting a new roof can be a messy process, especially during the tear-off process. The old roof must be completely removed, causing debris from shingles, nails, underlayment, and other components. A reputable roofer can help make the mess look like controlled chaos. The tear-off process also brings trash from the wrappers of newly installed materials and components. The roofing contractor you hire plays a significant role in shaping the mess. The mess is a result of the old roof being torn off and disposed of, making the process more manageable.
How long does it take to Reshingle a house?
The length of time a roof needs to be reshingled depends on the size of the house and the roof’s area. A typical residential home in the US has an area of 1600-1700 square feet, and an average roof reshingling takes 2-3 days. For roofs with double the area, it may take over a week. It is recommended to have warranties that last a long time, especially for high-quality shingles. For architectural shingles or slate tile roofs, a warranty should be proportional to the material’s lifespan, covering at least 25-30 years.
A warranty that covers a good amount of decades indicates the manufacturer’s confidence in their product. Researching warranties and choosing the right one is essential for a long-lasting and reliable roof.
What happens if it rains while getting a new roof?
Rainy weather during roof installation can cause tarping of exposed decking areas, which can be problematic for inexperienced roofers. To address this issue, “drying in” sections are used when the old roof is torn off. This involves covering the roof decking with underlayment to protect it before shingle installation, ensuring a watertight barrier until the home is dry enough to resume work. This ensures a safe and efficient installation process.
📹 HOW TO ROOF A HOUSE! (DIY)
How to tear off and replace an asphalt shingle roof on a house roof repair roof leak shingled roof asphalt shingles roof valley roof …
Thanks for this discussion of roofs. I live in Michigan and my 140 year old farm house has the same standing seam metal roof that my grandfather had installed about 1920. Throughout the years it was painted with a good rust resistant paint about every 15 years and it just keeps performing well—no holes and no leaks. So, some metal roofs do last 100 years 🙂
I installed 30 year asphalt shingles on my roof 28 years ago. They still look good, have not shrunk so the gap is wider so they are doing well. To be fair the garage peak is running north to south so it only gets direct sun in the summer. I live in WI so in winter the sun as at a low angle. So there are asphalt shingles that can live up to their 30 year warranty in my situation. I didn’t know there were architectural shingles or I might have considerded them.
We did a metal roof about 9 years ago. A year after we had a hail storm with hail the size of tennis balls (no exaggeration) and the roof had to be replaced, looked like someone hit t with a ball peen hammer about every inch! Aug 2020 we had the Dericho, 120mph wind for over an hour. No roof damage, most shingle roofs in town lost 20-80% of the shingles! Metal all the way!!
Here in the UK and Europe we use clay or concrete tiles or slate.. It’s the last thing we expect to do maintenance on apart from extreme storm damage. They should last at least a hundred years. Old houses that have Welsh slate roofs can last hundreds of years. We put shingles in our sheds and summer houses.
Shingles are good in the north but central and southern US metal roofs are only way to go. I switched to metal roof and added a 1.5″ air gap with sharkskin underlayment with a radiant sheet facing air gap. My utility bills dropped 30-35%. And the price was about same as if I did shingles. Metal is cheap if you do it yourself, lot cheaper than shingles because it goes on so quick.
Metal roofs do a lot better in high wind or hail areas, worth the extra cost. South Louisiana just went through a cat 4 and cat 2 hurricane this past October. There are still tons of houses with blue tarps on them because we just didn’t have the man power to change that many shingled roofs at one time. Majority of the people that had metal didn’t have any damage at all, just something to think about.
I think asphalt shingles are pretty bad, and I wish they were much less popular. They can’t be recycled, they leach oil into groundwater, they get soft in the heat and brittle in the cold, they shed granules into the gutters forever, and they look…okay. Metal really is the way to go, and if you want that shingle look, you can get metal “shingles”. One huge advantage of metal is that it has far fewer seams, and if you go with standing seam, it’s essentially one piece. I put snap-lock metal on my new shop and am glad I did. It’s easy to install, (relatively) inexpensive, easy to repair, recyclable, and immune to most weather. And it makes a nice sound when rained on!
The “New Improved More Expensive Architectural Shingles” are better, but yet only last half as long as advertised time on the package. Sounds like fraud and deceptive business practices to me. Why not list the average life span of the damn things? Sorry just don’t believe corporate type people who run or work for company’s quoting marketing material and giving a sales pitch.
This really really depends on where you live, taking in ALL costs, not just how long it will last. For example, here in Florida a metal roof can save substantially on insurance, 25%, 30% even more in some situations. That savings alone makes up for the cost differential in 4 or 5 years in many situations. And I am surprised there is no discussion of the energy cost differential.
Nice article and I dont disagree necessarily but some important factors left out when comparing to a stone coated steel material. Stone coated steel shingles, even direct to deck, offer air gaps that allow air to vent. A stone coated steel roof is significantly more energy efficient than asphalt. Hail resistance on a stone coated steel roof is far superior to asphalt. A 2″ hail storm will destroy an architectural asphalt shingle to the point it needs to be replaced under an insurance claim. Stone coated steel can withstand 3″ hail without noticeable cosmetic only damage and softball size hail before it will actually cause real damage that could cause a leak. When it comes to hail, stone coated steel cant be matched. Lastly, the profile and appearance of stone coated steel looks bulletproof. It looks like tile and enhances the curb appeal of the house. I would confidently say it adds more resale value than the extra investment to install it. Anyway, I struggled too with my decision and ended up spending about $10k more to go with the stone coated steel.
When you think about re-roofing your home keep in mind how long you are going to live in it. And you want a roofer/owner doing a free estimate. If a salesman comes out, you are more likely getting a higher est to make up his commission.. And it’s best to roof your home in the early spring/summer, so the shingles have time to seal down. Never roof in the winter you will have much more problems in the long run.
“no one wants to buy a house and have to do the roof” Here I am I am buying a house, 3 weeks out from closing, and it needs a new roof LOL. THANKFULLY the seller agreed to fully replace it with only a $1000 drop on their closing credit to me. And what was quoted was $6000 for a 50 year non prorated manufacturer warranty for owens corning architectural. baseline durable line but still. I am so thrilled and it will be done before closing :3
Why is he an owner of a roofing company and he cannot tell you what codes of roofing or shouldn’t he know that as being a Salesman and a roofing owner does anyone feel the same way I do he should know everything on roofing codes or you should not go with him he is just like any one that can just put roofing on you want an expert if your paying that money
Hi Jeff, I’m a relatively new follower and love your article’s. On this one I feel like you might have missed the point — there are different types of metal roofs and costs vary considerably (just like with shingles). Why not put something on that really lasts 50 years vs one that says 50 years and only lasts 25? With no soffits and global warming how much thought went into baking the shingles – this will reduce shingle life. Possibly, you should be able to sell the house with a metal roof with a premium for the roof built into your price.? This is a BIG topic and I just feel it could have been approached differently. You justified your decision but didn’t answer the question you pose as the title indicates – which is best? Love your articles and I’ll keep perusal! Best regards!
really comes down to aesthetics. You can get ice bars on metal roofs to stop the slides. Also if you are worried about dirt buildup on the roof, you could have it cleaned for cheap, or do it yourself. All your number were based on guarantees. Will a metal roof last 50 years? Maybe, I have seen 60 year old barns with metal roof last this long and they aren’t painted. Will a shingle roof last 50 years? no way, not even close. Wind, hail, ice damage will destroy a shingle roof. I have no problems with shingle roof though, I think they look better and sometimes that’s more important. I prefer a metal roof with the new attachment systems, and snow/ice dam.
A metal roof is a much better option for a roof than a shingle roof. A Standing Seam metal roof is even better as there are no exposed metal screws to leak in the future. If you like the shingle look on your house you can install metal shingles. Asphalt shingles are going to leak sometime in the future. If you option for a Standing Seam metal roof and it is installed correctly it is basically water proof forever. It might not look great in 50 years but it will still be waterproof. Also the guy who is doing the interview, let your expert do the talking instead of you interrupting him every 20 seconds.
Jeff, my man, I can not thank you profusely enough for all you do now that I’ve started house shopping in earnest. I’ve already skipped over several landmines either from a seller trying to attract a flipper or one that a flipper already did an immensely halfass job on trying to turn a huge profit. You will absolutely have me as a new member by the time I find a house worth my time and money. Respect!
I went with a metal standing seam roof. I have large white pine trees all around my house and the needles wouldn’t blow off the asphalt shingles . The piles of needles also trapped leaves creating compost piles in the valleys. I live in Minnesota and every spring my roof is cleared by snow sliding off now. Metal roofs also handle wind storm better than shingles and hail if you use 24 ga. metal.
Good article as I did my roof a few years ago. I went with the same product you did and the main reason I did not do a steel roof is because none of the steel roof companies were going to do a pull off of my shingles. All 4 companies I had quotes with tried telling everyone it was not necessary and it saves the environment LoL. I said no it saves them money and I want the inspection to make sure everything is in good shape. They all wanted extra money to pull the shingles off. I thought that was a poor way to do business and did not want to worry if I had issues a few years later due to missed rot under the shingles as my roof was 15 years old. I’ve seen all these steel roofs going up in my area and nobody is pulling the old roof off.
If you plan on staying in your house for many many years, metal is most likely a better value. If you doubt you will be in your house for too long…maybe less then 10 years, you might be better with asphalt shingles. Many variables …metal now a days should last about 60 years and asphalt about 20. While the cost of metal is approx 3x the cost of asphalt, When you go to replace your asphalt in 20 or so years the cost will most likely be more then double what you pay today…
Heat is what kills roofs. My roof was shot. I applied White Roof Guard 700 backrolling it under the shingles, getting them to lay back down. About every 3 years I put another coat on. My attic used to be 145F in the summer. Now it gets 5 degrees above ambient temperature. This roof will last forever.
Last summer I installed 40 owens corning Duration roofs, and 2 Bp Mystique (whats in the article) roofs, and the nails were placed correctly. No issues with the OC, but the BP roof (midseptember install) lost shingles to the wind. BP warranty was exceptionally good to deal with, I just wish they didn’t blow off in the first place.
The company you hire is a more important decision than the material you use. Most roofing companies are high volume installers and care little for quality workmanship. Do you research and hire a company that has experience and isn’t chasing storms. As for the information in this article, the designation of a 25 year roof, or 30 year roof is not a guide for the life expectancy of that roof, it is the manufacturer’s warranty on that material for defects. It doesn’t mean that shingle will last that long. A typical composition shingle’s life span is based on many factors but typically you are lucky to get to 25 -30 years excluding wind and hail damage. As for metal, it depends on the type of panel. Any exposed fastener system will require replacement of the fasteners every 7 – 10 years as the washer weathers out. A concealed fastener system is a far better choice for a home and if installed correctly can last a very long time. But, again the paint will fade and visible damage to the surface will occur over time and insurance will not typically pay for cosmetic damage on a metal roof because it is still structurally sound.
I have put ROOF AFTER ROOF on several houses. Architectural shingles are OK until you have a hailstorm. It used to be that hailstorms were a real rarity…. but not any more. Hailstorms happen every year or 2 in the Midwest. If you hear a hailstorm on your architectural shingled roof….. GET YOUR WALLET OUT AND GET READY TO BLOW ABOUT 4000 DOLLARS. Metal roofs are the only way to go. And you can FORGET about their warranty. They will say their product is not warrantied against NATURAL DISASTERS such as hailstorms.
I think many of your point are pretty valid but the argument about steel roofs being bad because the paint will wear off, but the protection remains seems… kinda weak. As a person who about a year ago paid several thousand dollars for a new shingle roof which has never stopped leaking, I have to say, a properly installed steel roof sounds mighty nice.. That and I should probably contact an attorney, come to think of it…
Yet again, the most timely article ever. My new house has a 2 year old roof on it, but here in the great state of Texas you MIGHT get 5-7 years out of a roof before the hail damage is too much for it. I was already planning on re-roofing with metal in the next year or two just to get ahead of the game and because those tend to last much better down here, but its definitely nice to know I have other options!
Home RenoVision DIY you said that you did the math and per square foot per year the architectural shingles vs metal roofing were about the same price so I am assuming that you went with shingles because you liked the looks better. I would say if they are the same close to the same price then why not go with white metal roofing? Here in the south we have hurricanes and so no one ever gets 25yrs on shingle roofs because a bad hurricane will either tear it off or at least bend and damage the shingles and they will have to be replace either in part or all of the roof. With white corrugated galvalume, (a composite of aluminum and galvanized steel giving you the strength and light weight of aluminum with the price reduction of steel) the white reflects almost 100% of the heat which helps in the south as we have killer AC bills and if you cool seal, (a liquid silicone paint) basically you have sealed all the screws double confirming they are leak proof and it it also white to reflect all the heat. If you do that you will get 50 yrs out of you white, cool sealed corrugated metal roof. You don’t have to worry about winds, hurricanes, the only 2 things that can hurt it is large hail after you cool seal and a tornado since NOTHING can survive a tornado if it gets directly hit.
In 1991 Oakland, CA had a disastrous fire in the Berkley Hills. As a result, replacing roofs with wooden shake shingles was no longer permitted. The wildfires which have burned and are still burning will probably cause the prohibition of asphalt shingles. What fire-resistant roofing material(s) would you recommend as a possible replacement(s)?
Jeff, your comment about not having good airflow in your farmhouse made me think of another question. I also only have gable vents in my house, and I’ve recently had air conditioning put in. Now I’m concerned if I need an attic fan to prevent condensation, but I have no idea where to start. (Also I know this is a DIY website, but I think I’d be having someone else do it.) Could you do an episode on attic fans, please?
Funny, how you mentioned a 25 Year Roof single being “Pro-rated”. Yet this guy is telling us that his price will never change? I smell something…and it isn’t Roses! Just an honest thought. We have to remember, HE is trying to sell this product. That in itself should be a warning sign to many. Like Jeff said most people buy and sell within 5 years, and “I am selling this house ASAP, to start a new Project”. Good for Jeff! Most people are in for the long haul! I personally, for the extra $$$ would still go with Asphalt shingles and do it in 25 years, Three times for what I am seeing here. Jeff, you are getting far to Commercialized! It is AWESOME! That you get deals the average person can never achieve, that is a testimony by itself. I am sorry, if you think I am being mean or trolling…I just remember an average guy telling us “Simple Things” to make our hard work easier. I miss that!
and the other big thing about exposed fastener steel roofs is that the rubber sealing washers on the screws dont last forever, especially if they are crushed too much during installation. The UV exposure, thermal expansion of the steel sheets and freeze thaw cycles slowly wear down the rubber washers on the screws, once they go its going to leak everywhere. in 10-15 years you will have to pay someone to go up and re-do all the screws adding to the cost even more.
I know its not available yet… But what are your thoughts about Solar Tiles, such as Tesla’s Solar Roof? If you’re planning on putting solar panels up anyways that is… One of the best part of that roofing system that I think is that its modular, if one tile breaks, or fades, you simply replace the tile, not the entire roof…
This is only applicable if you hire someone to install it. This is a DIY website. So for those who want to know the material cost of 29 ga exposed fastener (standard metal roof) is almost exactly the same as that of shingles. About 2.20$ /sf with trim/accessories and underlayment. in 2024 US. Roofers with legit companies like this have a huge amount of overhead with insurance and labor rates are high because its really hard work not to mention they need the large markup to cover callbacks. However if you have a lower pitch and not too many roof variations (valleys, dormers, ect) a diy metal roof job can save you a lot of money.
The truth is this: the thicker and better the metal you put on, the longer it lasts. I’ve roofs made from 0.8 mm thick metal, made custom order with standing seam. They’ve been on for 30 years. No paint, no leak. The only issue i’ve had with them is they’re slightly hotter than other roofs and i should’ve added a wee bit more insulation. Roofs on a house are squarely in the “pay once, cry once” category. Any other discussion is a moot point. You’re creating nothing but headaches for the you of tomorrow when you install a cheap shingle, aluminium or any other format other than a thick, standing seam roof. They’re superior. Mine’s not even the oldest i know that’s leak free. Several UK homes i’ve worked on had possibly older roofs holding on just fine. They also don’t pierce when a tree or hail falls and last the abrasion of snow far better. No standing seam fold over when the roof is thick. Caveat: your roof’s wooden structure better be up to spec. You’re carrying extra load.
You’re buying that house, making Youtube articles, then selling the house. Makes sense to go with a cheap 3 tab, or archetectural 30 year warranty, and get maybe 15 years out of it for the next homeowner. In my experience, I had a 30 year Owens Corning archetectural roof put on my Dutch Colonial home, and after 8 years, some of the shingles started crcking horizontally…yeah, right in half, and falling right off the roof. Warranty?? Just ask the product rep. He’s got an answer for everything. I don’t care how much a roof costs, when you stay in your home long term, I’ll go with a metal roof everytime.. I have a gambreled roof on my free standing garage that was put on in 1983. Those guys told me they were stripping off better shingles with the asbestos in the shingles on the house, than the new ones they were putting on. My garage has held the test of time. My house with the newer shingles is crap. Thank you Owens Corning for making a beautiful looking shingle, that just doesn’t work.
As a born and raised Central Floridian, we lived in an old shack with a metal roof in the 80’s. The bathroom was outside. That roof held up against tornadoes, hurricanes, hail storms and all. What boggles me is that in history all the things we associate with being poor are at a high value later. A metal roof is expensive, and worth it as of right now, however insurance companies make it hard to stay insured with one. Slow learning Capitalism.
Can shingles be recycled? A metal roof can.Also if it’s just appearance damage, farmers will pay up and use it on sheds and barns. Plus the metal roofing on my house comes with a 50 non pro rated warranty and it has cut my utility cost by an average of 12%on average over the last 3 years. Since installed,7 wind storms have come thru. My neighbors had their roof replaced at the same time with shingles. Some have had patch repairs or all new roofs. In fact the house next to me had a new roof installed at that time. A wind storm came through Wednesday and a roofing crew was there Thursday replacing architectural shingles …..it looks terrible with old and new shingles. We had wind gusts of 70mph.
My grandparents had a cedar shingle roof. Lasted a long time. But they replaced it with a metal roof and and gutter system. SO many troubles with the roof and gutters. Some is improper installation and some is the nature of the product. They get a ton of snow, not the steepest roof ever. Most winters shoveling off the roof is normal because a lot will come at once. Like 2ft in a day or 2. The roof screws loosen over time, so like this year I had to retighten many of them. Also there was an area that had some slack in the roof metal that was never worked out to the end of the roof. Someone measured just slightly off. So this caused one area to totally buckle in the middle because of the tension! I screwed it down best I could but wouldn’t be surprised if that came up again. Each screw hole is an area for possible water intrusion. The metal can last a long time, but the rubber washers for the screws are probably like 40-50 yrs. My parents have a shingle roof from 2006, still looks like new. Spray foam roof, one area does have a small attic. Vented soffits. Under no trees, and have lots of wind. I’m highly impressed with it, and I think it will last a long time. My dad built a metal roofed and sided garage in maybe 2010 or something and he had to tighten some screws as well
Hi, my most fundamental question is how do I know if it’s time to change the roof. My roof is at 29 years (1994 install) – the roof is rated for 40 years (Celotex Presidential Shingles – the company was bought by CertainTeed in the late 90’s). No problems yet – and most roofers give me the ‘yeaaaahhhh – it’s fineeeee but if you should probably change it’. Obviously, it’s big expense. I live in long island, ny – so crazy hot sun in the summer, and reasonably harsh winter (although not in the last two years).
Here in South Africa the metal roof works because it’s priced better and if painted a light colour(ideally white) the heat in summer doesn’t build up and the metal tends to last longer. Also with a booming solar panel market it’s better to fit the bracket onto metal or solid surface than a shingle. A bonus to your home would be to install a reflective radiant barrier in the attic for comfortable interior temperatures just in case (assuming the metal roof is a light colour).
Good presentation but, there is a lot wrong here. Firstly, there is not just one type of laminate shingle sold in North America. And yes, I know you didn’t mean brand. There are shingles made specifically for certain areas such as high snow loads and hail. Also, all the laminate shingles sold in my area are advertised as 40yr shingles and I have been installing them for 15+yrs now. I have returned to shingle additions etc on roofs I installed 10-15yrs ago and the original shingles still appear as new. In regards to ventilation, I can clearly see gable-end vents on this house which are proven to be equally efficient on average. The 7yr old shingles being stripped are clearly an organic (defective) product just by how warped the tabs are and all the missing stone, asphalt/fibreglass shingles don’t do that. I’m sick of hearing how people don’t want to spend money on *THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF THEIR HOUSE*, boo hoo. There is also nothing inherently wrong with a lay-over if there are no pre-existing water issues and code in Ontario allows for it and all the roofers here know that guy has done his fair share of layovers. It is an affordable alternative for folks who cannot carry the additional labour and disposal cost of a complete tear off. Also in Ontario, the code calls for the amount of Ice & Water shield to extend beyond the exterior wall by a set amount based on the pitch not by the discretion of the roofer or homeowner. Ice & Water should also be installed in the entire valley length in this climate.
In the Midwest US most contractors will offer a 50 year non-prorated warranty. Certainteed, GAF, Malarkey,and Owens Corning do offer these warranties. This means from the time the roof is installed it is covered against manufacturer defect for 50 years. The important part is to make sure your contractor has the “extended warranty” included.
The experts won’t tell you about all the screws backing out of metal roofs in the long run due to expansion and contraction and that after year 10-12 you need to take everyone of them out and go back with a bigger thread screw. I own a roofing company and to many good ole boy’s out there doing metal the wrong way. Proper Installation is the key for both products and you’ll find lesser flaws on a shingle roof than a metal roof and a lot easier to fix than any issues on metal. We do metal roofs but we also have taken more off the past two years for customers wanting to switch back after enduring all the problems they didn’t for see with a metal roof which most were installed by DIY’ers or Chuck in a Truck.
It’s all a scam; the majority of houses are barely built to the minimum building codes for the region and then are not really designed to last. Most require that keep you pumping money into them just to keep them livable–and this of course is GREAT business for handymen, roofers and the building supply stores.
The existing roof is slate and it is old–maybe as old as the house which was built in 1906. it is cracking in places and I cannot get up on it without allowing for the necessity of repair –I cannot find a roofer that says he can repair it that thrills me with confidence. We live in the California Bay Area (East Bay) and the climate is mild (seldom over 90 degrees in Summer and never freezes in Winter) but winds can be a factor as is deterioration from UV. We are seeking a solar assembly on a New Roof on the West and (maybe the small South facing of a cottage roof) which one should be chosen. I am not up to date on how the solar panel array (s) are attached, but I have a hard time envisioning onr that does not penetrate the roof assembly and with time and the wind, expansion/contraction issues and such, I wonder if the roof’s life would be compromised. I also anticipate that a new roof would be more expensive because you would have to dismember the Solar array.
Jeff, I was wondering how much you charge to do a home inspection and provide advice. I live in the South Shore of Montreal and was wondering that even people advice me to go local, it is hard to find trustworthy professionals. People trying to scam you. I am scared a lot with hidden fees and bad comments over the Internet. I bought my first 30-year-old house that nobody cared to give love and I now I doing basic stuff, but need to change a 30-year-old Patio Door, Floor, Kitchen (this last one cannot do it alone so I hired a kitchen company for $16k :'( but they are replacing everything to wood and plywood not classic HDF and MDF. No, I am not rich. My hard earning money for my first child and kitchen is very old). I thought was easy to do, but I wasn’t born here and have not many friends or my brothers are not here, and it is exhausting doing a lot of research and trying to be an expert. Nevertheless, I learned a lot perusal your articles and now looks like I know more than actual professionals here or detect scams. If you even come to Montreal, let us know. I’d like your expert advice. Thank you.
Jeff, thanks for the heads up about checking warranties. I do think this roofer’s viewpoint is understandably one-sided… Let’s hear now from a metal roof expert, please. And not a metal salesman, please, but maybe someone from the industry? Or someone from a magazine who has researched the alternatives for us? Or even someone at a building supply company that sells both? Let’s hear talk bout the different types of metal roofing available now. I’d like to understand that. I personally did not take the statement that a metal roof would have to be replaced in 25 years anyway at face value, due to fading I think he said? Color choice would be a factor, some colors fade some… and with the explosion of metal roofing, if that becomes common, I expect there will be repainting options if someone felt it were necessary? Also, when an asphalt roof is damaged by loss of gravel from people walking on it, I’ve always thought there should be a spray adhesive and matching gravel that could be applied to extend the life of the roof. It’s a real tragedy to see asphalt roofs that are only a couple of years old in our area replaced after hail storms, repeatedly. We are due a roof soon — we put the best architectural shingles we could find on over 25yrs ago and the roof is still okay but reaching the end of its lifetime. At the time, we would have put metal but they weren’t common in our area of the SouthEast and we couldn’t find a knowledgeable installer, so we went with asphalt. Now, when metal roofs are so common that all the little country houses are dotted around with metal roofs, and when we’ve aged and can’t do a roofing job ourselves on our steep roof, and metal prices are soaring.
so i like your shows my home thanks to mom home built in 1921 all a flat roof every 3 years roof leaked my dad got sick of fixing the roof so he put a pitch roof over the flat one never remove the flat so even if the pitch leaks it so to flat roof never enter my ceilings you can come and see i was never home in the 1980,s plus my dad did all the work he was the king off fixing home cheap be i live in his work now 60 but am lost how do he do it is all still here
Just replaced our original three tab 27 yr old roof with Certainteed Landmark Arc shingles in Heather Brown. Has the copper infused to fight algae growth. Love it. A neighbor replaced theirs maybe 8 yrs ago with three tabs. The black growth on it is terrible looking. I had considered metal but HOA here won’t allow metal roofs.
So, roof sheathing. I was told the roofers follow the IBEC code for roof sheathing. As I think I understand they said minimum is 1/2″ thick. The plywood they used was “Rated Sheathing 32/16 Sized for Spacing, Exposure 1, Thickness 0.451, (looks like) PS1-99(?) 15/32 Category. Hard to read. And another “32/16 exposure 2, thickness 0.451, PSI-38(?) C-D Prep 1, 15/32 Category. ” If 1/2 inch is ok to use, this seems so flimsy. I though roofers were going to fall through. There are so many knot holes and splintery wood. Looks like cr*#%*p. And what about when the snow comes? We usually get some. Lots of rain. I used to have 12″ facia boards with built in gutters. The facia boards cleared the rafter tails by over 1″. Now they attached 6″ and cut back some rafter tails. Some ends are exposed – even over 1″ which are going to rot. Yeah I know. It’s a disaster. Anyone give knowledge in this? They installed the outer soffits with this plywood and a couple pieces maybe 4×4 of OSB. Not covering my roof securely before underlayment and shingles caused my decking to be soaked! Including insulation and walls. It was raining in my house! It’s been a battle. Looking forward to see if anyone has any ideas what to do.
This was a great article, I’m in the process of researching before we build. My priority is energy efficiency. I want to get to NET positive on a small footprint. If i use zipR12 then strap can i put another layer then shingle over? Giving air space under the roof. The attic will be tight and a conditioned space.
going with a metal roof made my buddy more then shingles would have because of how brutal the winds along the river are on roofs, the buyers wanted metal and the fact he went metal raised his value over 4x the cost of the metal roof, good stuff.. also when the roof was installed the company did an insulated standoff install over the original wood deck they covered with a shield, the thing made the house noticeably more comfy in summer and winter and… roof had the full 50 year warranty that stayed with the roof, that was a key part of the choice he made, the people have loved the place, infact, they ended up just wanting to use it a few weeks a year and have my buddies step-sons family living there and taking care of the place, they cant deal with the cold winters anymore… but love the summer here… so… yeah… they love it.. the fact its had zero issues, unlike the single roofs on 2 houses nearby that have been replaced twice in that time before the owners went metal… wind off the river and summer heat on that side just wreck singles..
Restoring a old farmhouse is a pain. I’ve replaced the original board and batten cedar with hardie board countrylane red almost the same as the original. That was tough now new roof with a combo. I have metal on the shed dormer 0/12 flat basically and architectural shingles on the rest. Replaced 8 sheets of plywood in the process. I’m glad it was kinda inline with what I see here. Thanks
People have been killed by snow avalanches off roofs. In my experience, metal roofs send huge sheets of ice and snow off at once, while shingle roofs allow the snow to melt slowly. A friend’s car was smashed by snow sliding off their metal roof. Also, I’ve noticed metal roofs more prone to leaking where the metal screws are loosened by ice.
When I came with my company soon a lots of big man won’t make money no more it’s insane just to see how much the change to fix your roof sad I Like fast and good money not fast money and over charge somebody who in need GOD will work me 2 it I love your articles keep doing it I leaned a lots from it thank you
I always chalk layout because it looks better having perfectly straight shingles and it doesn’t take that much extra time. The fastest speed hacks use the gauge and never let go of the gun but on hot days the gauge can dig into the shingle and really screw up the layout. Also if multiple people are on the same section their gauges may be slightly different. Ice shield expands when it’s hot so if you throw it down cold in the morning you might have a bunch of wrinkles by lunch time. You can cut the wrinkles but that will make it less waterproof. On really hot days I’ll tack the end of the ice shield then roll it out with the plastic on and let the sun hit it for a minute so it expands then I yank it tight, tack the end and pull the plastic from underneath it
i thought nailing IN/ON the tar line was a big ‘NO’ and that is due to the fact you’re reducing the adhesive area for the next row of shingles. Do manufacturers specify one way or the other? I have all the material for my 12×12 shed laying on my garage floor and I suppose I could go out and read it but I probably would not know what I was reading anyway, lol
Great work guy, Also I see your point about not running the starter shingle up the gable. It seems to me each shingle going up keeps one another down. I’m not a roofer, I’m a plumber of 50 years and I like learning new things and yes I’m roofing my roof all by myself. I’ve got to put down 75 bundles on my roof. I have a 8/12 pitch with a gable on the front, hip in the back with two valleys. I’m going to do my valleys the way you do sometimes, the closed valley or as they say the california valley. Here in Alabama your’re not required to use the storm guard in your valley, but I wanted it, so I did. It rained like hell yesturday June 15th and no water got through the synthetic felt. You do a good job simplifying things with your words and that’s a big plus. Keep your articles coming…
Strange that you staple the hell out of the ice & water barrier when it’s adhesive and you’re about to shingle it same day (which adds plenty of hold-down fasteners). Every staple compromises the integrity of the shield. I’d be surprised if the official usage documents for the adhesive barrier call for it to be stapled, at all especially when shingles are going on the same day.
Starter on the gable is there to hold down the end of the shingle run so that wind doesn’t lift it and blow water under it. With the starter holding the end of the shingle down via adhesive at the edge, any small amount of water that does get in is now on top of the starter, where it will begin to run downhill and come put at the downstream seam(s). Odd you can’t see why it’s called for by roofing material manufacturers.
Thank you you are a great teacher your work is perfection you can tell by how your shingles line up straight you are one of the best of the best . From the Drip edge aluminum ice and water shield over the gutter apron V B shield white slip guard synthetic to the proper way with the nail gun . 7/16 to the 3/8 you are a professional best of the best 👍
Thank you so very much. You did a great Job explaining everything. Clearly, easy to understand, and not too fast. It’s great to learn how to install a Roof. I am 77 years old, so I won’t be doing it. We had bad hail damage here in Florida and I am perusal plenty of roofs going on. Not all of them correctly ! Thanks again.
wow I see about 4400 lbs of weight stacked on the ridge… And why move your material 2 times ? Tear off the roof,, run your underlayment and stock the roof in.. That’s a big waste of time moving materials around,. double the work .. ….half in osb on 2ft center code here calls for 3/4 sheeting with rafters on 2ft center,,,this article is wrong on all levels
Right from the beginning, this guy is doing a hand stapler and not a roofing nailer. To hold that down, I don’t care if it’s self sealing itself. Sticking whatever you still use roofing nails and tin tags. That’s another thing hes doing wrong, hes not snapping lines. The roof could be off a little. What roof you’re running shingles on? If you’re running them straight up or if you’re staircasing them, you always Snap lines. You don’t trudge the edge of the roof you want your s*** to look Really good.
That’s the best article I ever seen good Job at least you are not fcking selfish like the others out there you just give us a lots good of information just to start our own company roofing and you are being honest too GOD will always provide for your family and the others wow like I said nothing it’s difficult just leaning and and get the job done most companies out there don’t even go to school and you don’t really need school for this shit and also you only needs training and keep doing the same and the same it’s a repeat job over and over wow
Always use lifetime shingles. If installed properly most manufacturers will guarantee them for life. When I had them installed the installer guaranteed them for life with a transferable warranty. Major resell point. And yes the installer is still in business and will be for many years to come. When I had my garage built I insisted on them and now the builder won’t use anything else. Also, I want ice and water shield on the entire roof, not just the first three feet. I live in New England. Just do it right the first time. And OSB on a roof? Really?!
I am going to have to come back to your article clip of the Roofing. I need to look at it when I have better time. I know I probably need either work done on it, or a new roof. My Husband passed away recently and I have had to do a lot of work on this house. I’ve got to finish paying for the work that’s being done now to my house. As soon as people, or companies find out that your spouse has passed away. All these people think is you are left well off. It is not the case on all people. I was left with what we had in the bank. I cannot make bills that I have to pay on for the rest of my life. Thank You, and I hope you have a great day. ❤️🙏🙏❤️
I wouldn’t waste any money on their shingle starters, not even along the eaves, I would flip over a dimensional shingle and use it,running one up the rake can make it look nice and straight,also I have never seen anyone start a roof on the far right like you did in 35 yrs of doing roof work,not that it makes it any less quality just more awkward for me.
1. started nailing on bottom right like a dirty lefty would 2. no kneepads with holes in jeans? what 3. no starters up sides and flush with the side, not a big deal but every house i did for 12 years is inch over lap with starters up the sides and bottom. stagger is good. Just starting on bottom right as a right handed guy i can tell this guy is wack. I couldnt hang would be having mental seizures
Thanks for sharing, Justin; I really appreciate your content. You show us the important details and 3X through the routine “hand-waving” parts. Now for a question (which is probably code-dependent)… If it were your house and it had original 1X boards, would you you replace them with plywood decking, would you add 4X8 sheathing atop them, or would you just leave the original board deck and re-roof as the original roofers did. (My house is from the 1950’s, with an original roof, a second three-tab roof over it -done in the middle seventies; the wood is in good condition here in Southern California. I’m replacing with architectural roofing because it’s definitely time, it’s been shedding granules and looking “shiny.”) Thanks in advance.