The sixth-generation Honda Civic was produced from 1995 until 2000, offering three body styles: 3-door hatchback, 4-door sedan, and 2-door coupe. It featured two new 1.6-liter 4-cylinder engines and a new hybrid no. 15. The EK (1996-2000) Civic’s chassis was built on the same chassis as the 92-00 Civics and 94-01 Integras, resulting in many parts being interchangeable.
The D-series engine in the Civic is not special, but it produces 88 Kw. The Vti engine number is D16Y5, while the EK Gli has a D16Y4. Powerwise, both engines produce 88 Kw. The Vti pre-facelift (pre-VTEC) engine is preferred for its ABS.
The late inclusion of electric wipers and internal bonnet release in the EK’s program demonstrates a significant change in the Civic’s design. The EK-FB Holden was Australia’s answer to the tri-five Chev, and Vince Panuccio harnessed this old-school cool for his mega-tough streeter. The Motor Sports Edition featured a standard grey fabric interior from the EK variant, not the Recaro seats.
The EK sedans (GLi vs VTi) have very similar specs, with power and torque differing by less than 4kW/Nm. However, over the EG, the EK has a stiffer chassis, better crash protection, more options like ABS and airbags, and a nicer interior. The EM1 was equipped with a B16A2, while the standard EK came with some variation of the D16.
In summary, the sixth-generation Honda Civic was a popular choice for enthusiasts, with its unique design, powerful engines, and unique features.
📹 Introducing my K swapped EK sedan (K24A2)
Hey guy n gals today vlog is a short inrto to my k24a2 type s head and pump civic. it was shot on the gopro so sorry if audio is trash …
📹 $2000 Honda Civic K-Swap Quick Build – PT 1
DISCLAIMER: Speed Academy videos are solely for entertainment purposes. Never perform any modifications to your vehicle that …
Hey guys! FYI I did the valve cover on my own “ass2000” last year and I stripped it with “Dominion Sure Seal High Strength Paint Stripper.” I’m Canadian too and grabbed it at the local crappy tire. In the body shop section. Worked perfectly. Probably took some days off my life but it was very fast! Keep up the great articles!
I may be the exception here, but I definitely care how they perform far more than how they look xD Gotta get some FluidFilm Black on that underbody! And I don’t typically get too hung up on most parts, but every single K-Tuned piece looks to be of extremely high quality. Props to a company with a high attention to detail and polish.
So, I’m an aircraft mech and here’s what you can do to strip that thing in 10 minutes. Invest in a media/grit blaster which you may already have and run plastic beads through it. It will take off all of the paint and primer leaving the metal and even its conversion coating undisturbed. Plastic media is used on aluminum alloy and of course anything harder. It’s not as good for thorough corrosion removal but will remove some.
If your guys are planning to keep the stock injectors, have you thought about sending them out to get cleaned/balanced? I’ve used rc engineering but there’s probably something more local-ish for you guys. Any used car/engine I do it and it always makes the engine run way better and it’s only about $100 for 4 inj, full printout of cc’s and spray pattern before and after.
That battery in the fender area is bothering me. For a drag car it makes sense – the battery is heavy, so it adds weight to the front end and adds traction. For a track car, you want balance. It’s not a huge weight in terms of the whole car, but it does bring a decent amount of weight outboard from its original inboard position (meaning the weight is sitting outside the area between the front and rear axles). If you’re relocating, the ideal position would be just in front of the rear axle. It moves weight from the front to the back of the car, improving balance while keeping the weight inboard. Overall, it might not even be worth .1 of a second on the track (without testing, we can’t be sure), but from an engineering standpoint, it’s better to get it out of that fender area.
Hey guys I’m still perusal the episode but I figure I’d let you know about safe n’ easy paint stripper gel. I’ve been using it and it pulls paint off really well and I got a bottle for 12 bucks. You’ll have to use a brush but seems to work extremely well! Hope that helps. Keep up the awesome articles!
Fun fact: you don’t HAVE to use a heat gun on the VHT wrinkle paint. Yes it will speed up the wrinkle, but it is not necessary. Personally, I think the wrinkle comes out better WITHOUT the heat gun. I’ve done it that way three times with great results! Be patient. Give it 24 hours to dry/wait for the wrinkle to form naturally.
I heard With a B swap, these cars handle better than with a K swap. Not just about putting the power down out of a turn ( traction ) Some might reply, that it depends on your suspension set up…etc, but I am just curious if some one had the same car with both engines. They weight about the same, The K engine is taller and spins the other way, not sure if that makes a difference.
Looks are somewhat important on cars yes lol but for me, its the gray that looks bad. You really aren’t going to see the engine often. I’ve personally never understood the Nardo Gray trend. It just likes like primer but clear coated. Doesn’t matter what car that color is on, I just see lazy designing. It’s like someone thought “I’ve had enough of building this car…. I’ll just clear the primer and be done with it.” Certain colors can look nice without metallics, or flakes, just gloss, but gray isn’t one of them.
Any powder coat shop would be able to strip that valve cover super easy for you. For powder coating most places use a chemical called b17. Super nasty stuff and you don’t want to get it on your skin but for removing coatings, b17 is where it’s at and most powder coating places will have it or some other form of liquid stripper on hand.
the airplane stripper was the best before the EPA did what they did. GIVE US OUR MEHTYLENE CHLORIDE BACK I NEED TO STRIP STUFF paint strippers suck now for lacquer/acrylic based paints cause of that too. the doubled the price of all strippers and in return gave us a paint stripper that is useless. best way these days probably is to use a sanding machine.
Damn… yeah fuck building the civic. There’s just no way to make it fast for cheap. I thought about building it for fun. And just leave the c6 stock. But for 2k I can damn near supercharge my ls3 and it would take fkn 20 grand to get the civic to that power range. Tho I might just still do it cuz the civic is atleast cool to drive. It’s got more of a drivers feel than my c6. I can accidentally do 100mph in that car. But this thing, u feel it and know it. And it feels like a racecar lol
Aircraft remover is still sold In the US all over the place. I got some from O’Reilly’s the other day, but MAN is it expensive! It’s nearly $80/gal now. Sucks when you need lots of it for things like wheels. Aircraft remover also makes a spray can that works really well too for smaller projects. My advice is to make a little vat and ‘dip’ the valve cover in it for about 30-45min and the paint falls right off.
Yeah, to give a little more info on that aircraft paint stripper for you guys: the chemical is called MEK(butanone) and the reason it’s hard to get is because it’s HIGHLY CARCINOGENIC! We used that stuff in the navy back in the day, and even then we had to wear a TON of PPE. There isn’t just a possibility of you getting cancer, just the question of “when” you’ll get it. If you breathe it in for longer than like 2 minutes without any respiratory protection, you’re at high risk. Yeah, it wrinkles paint up pretty quick, but it isn’t worth all the risk involved in using it.
Okay so here’s thing about the newer paint strippers. You have to apply it liberally but not too liberally. Think of a Krispy Kreme glazed doughnut. THEN, you have to drape a plastic bag on it and tap it on so it makes contact with every treated surface. It’s not the same as the good stuff but it’s the closest you will get. Good luck with all future projects, you’ve earned my sub.
I think the challenge is that articles are not an interactive experience. Therefore performance, other than dyno numbers or lap times, is challenging to grasp for viewers. Hence, looks will always bring better results. I love your articles, and personally, I am more of a driver than a looks guy, but even I find it difficult to get an experience from you guys driving your cars and explaining the performance to the camera. Nevertheless, love perusal whatever you do, but that is at least my take on looks vs performance.
Ive got a 9th gen si (car in my profile pic) that i wish had a k20 head. Ive got the k24z7 already and a lsd 6 speed with full bolt ons and dyno tuned on hondata. I would love if you guys did an all motor build series on my car and did a k20 head swap and maybe a different clutch to hold the power. Man a guy can wish right??? I would give u guys full rights to do what ever u wanted and all the time you needed. You guys rock!!
the old paint stripper probably had “GBL” in it, a precursor to a certain drug. it works extremely well, strips paint off anything, but afaik you cant get it that easy these days… used to be in rim cleaner mostly. in some countries they still sell it to legit shops that need it. might wanna look in that direction.
I’m here for the technical bits, good looking work is a nice byproduct though. I’ve got love for old Hondas and what they did in their time, but we all know that K is indeed the way. Looking forward to hearing about the de-boosted brakes, and hoping that we get an update episode on Connie’s brakes as well😉A booster delete would free up valuable space for a BEAMS swapped RA24…here’s hoping that’s a possibility.
The reason they took off the good paint strippers is because the active ingredient in them; methylene chloride is very bad for your health and its also suspected to be a carcinogen, so you will notice that the paint strippers nowadays use very little or none at all and they will use other chemicals to don’t do as good a job. Your choice: your health, or your ktuned valve cover 🙂
Klean Strip, premium stripper, “removes paint epoxy polyurethane from metal wood & masonry” patent pending just used last night after same situation no more aircraft stripper available and to my surprise it worked like a charm might only be on shelf in the states though I’d bet you can get it shipped online
I don’t usually chemically strip stuff if I dont have to. Instead I use a combo of bead blasting and walnut shell, and I have a lot of different scotch brite looking wheels I use to finish. For valve covers it’s super easy. I just cut out some plyboard and use threaded rods thru to plug/fasten to the board. Makes it easy to see/move without blasting inside it.
Stoked on the Honda content! Im in Nova Scotia and bought a 97 kswapped ITR from a guy in Richmond Hill Ont 6 years ago, still has the original kswap that was done in 2008-9. It has hasport mounts with no serial numbers ( I confirmed with them so you know it was done long ago) and the wiring is a mess BUT it still works perfectly. If it aint broke dont fix it.. I guess 🤣. Anyway this build series may finally give me the ambition to clean my car up a bit. 🙏🏻
Napa in canada sells the real paint stripper that actually works. Usually we are stricter than the usa on safety because we dont believe in freedom, so id be shocked if you cant get it. No retail stores will sell it due to liability, but you can buy it at napa as a professional… even if youre not lol. Fair warning, it will kill you very quick without proper ventilation. It evaporates extremely quick into a death cloud. I paint it on and wrap in plastic so it has time to work.
You guys hit the nail on the head in regards to certain chemicals that made paint stripper of the past very effective recently being outlawed. But consider also that honda uses a very high quality, chemical resistant coating on their valve covers… I usually glass bead them first, then use 2 or 3 treatments of paint remover and scraping and media blast again. Repeat if necessary. That coating is tough! 😂
the valvetrain is a good reference to care taken on the engine however the crankcase is where you really find out with the k series being 22 years old now and common head gasket failures,.. I wouldnt be suprised if the head has been cleaned/machined or replaced if it were running Mobil1 its whole life you’d swear it was a brand new engine when you opened it
On that stripper it might help if you wrap it with Automotive plastic wrap! Aircraft is still available but it isn’t what it used to be which is sad, when the reps came to the shop they told us we need to tell people to wrap it with the plastic wrap and let it sit for an hour, will work better but not like before
Looks are awesome, but it truly falls 3rd to performance and functionality. I’ve been following you guys for years. During all the highs and lows. I love how you do care about looks but you give actual useful information . I learned allot from you while building my FD. It was like you had the most grounded type of information for us car guys. Please don’t fall to deep into the rabbit hole of look over anything else you do. We have plenty of empty headed looks with no go YouTuber vids. Just my two cents.