Quikrete is a fast-setting concrete mix designed for small-scale projects, consisting of sand, gravel, and cement. It works quickly and should be used in both interior and exterior applications over 1″ thick. QUIKWALL® Surface Bonding Cement adds strength, durability, and water resistance to walls made of concrete, brick, terra cotta tile, and stone. It is an excellent choice for outdoor projects like mailboxes, lamps, signs, flagpoles, and sports equipment.
Both concrete and Quikrete are extremely weather-resistant and moisture-resistant, making them ideal for outdoor use. They can easily withstand the elements. Quikrete Fast-Setting Self-Leveling Floor Resurfacer is best for interiors, while Rapid Set High Strength, 15 Min Set, Featheredge is best for exteriors. KILZ Over Armor Textured is best for cracks.
Epoxy Multi-Surface Coating is used to strengthen and seal interior concrete floors, but is also appropriate for outdoor surfaces such as walkways and patios. Premium Clear Epoxy Coating is best for interiors. Quikrete Heavy-Duty Masonry Coating (No. 1301, 1312) is a dry mixture of portland cement, damp-proofing agents, and sand used to seal and beautify concrete, block, brick, stucco, and stone walls. It can be used in both interior and exterior applications, both above grade and below.
The difference between interior and exterior concrete usage depends on understanding the differences between the two. Glass Block Mortar is designed for both interior and exterior use and provides a waterproof mortar joint. The no-mix is for setting fence posts. For 100 square feet 4″ thick, 50-80 pound bags of concrete mix are needed.
Using self-leveling concrete outdoors is usually not a good idea, as it can cause damage to the concrete and make it difficult to maintain.
📹 MASON MIX (TYPE “S” – “N”) REVIEW (Mike Haduck)
I do a review on mason mix (pre-mix) just add water, I use a quikrete product for my example and give my own opinions from my …
What is the difference between interior and exterior concrete?
Weather significantly influences the placement, finish, and durability of concrete. Interior concrete is less susceptible to environmental changes and requires less air entrainment, making it less susceptible to cracking. However, the main difference lies in the finish. Early finishing of exterior concrete can trap bleed water, causing surface problems. Exterior concrete typically has a rough broom finish for traction, reducing slipping or falling. Concrete is sensitive to temperature, setting quicker in hot weather and slower in cold weather. Admixtures are often added to slow the set time in hot weather and accelerate it in cold weather.
Can QUIKRETE be used outside?
This product is suitable for affixing bolts, handrails, or other metal components to concrete surfaces, particularly for the repair of loose wrought iron railings. The product may be utilized in both interior and exterior applications, and is suitable for use on concrete slabs, masonry walls, set posts, and for the sealing of cracks and joints. To receive notifications regarding new product releases and promotional offers, please subscribe to our mailing list.
How long before QUIKRETE can get rained on?
Ready mix concrete takes up to 28 days to fully cure due to a chemical reaction. However, allowing the concrete to cure under waterproof covers for 4-8 hours should prevent damage. Master Mix Concrete offers same and next-day delivery services in Watford, Harrow, and surrounding areas, and a volumetric concrete service, allowing customers to pay only for what they use. A free site visit is available for quotes, ensuring that budgets are never over or schedules are not pushed behind. This quick, efficient, and cost-effective service simplifies the day-to-day running of a business, preventing underestimating concrete needs and ensuring a smoother business operation.
What happens if it rains 12 hours after pouring concrete?
When pouring concrete in rain, it is crucial to avoid working large amounts of rainwater into the mix and surface, and not use dry cement on a wet surface to soak up the rainwater. Rain can weaken the concrete surface, compromising its strength and leading to issues like cracks and delays in the curing process. To prepare for potential rainfall, check the weather forecast and ask your contractor if they are prepared for the possibility. Cover the working area with plastic sheets or waterproof covers to avoid getting the ground soaked with rainwater.
Contractors will move quickly to keep the area covered if rain starts immediately. The concrete takes about 24 to 48 hours to set, but it begins to harden after 4 to 8 hours. After about 6 hours, the potential damage from rainwater will not be as significant as the concrete begins to dry.
What is the difference between concrete and quikrete?
Quikrete is a lightweight, non-expansive concrete mix designed for quick installation and structural integrity. Its non-existent coefficient of expansion allows it to be installed quickly, making it more attractive to construction companies and installers. This makes Quikrete a stronger product with higher compressive and tensile strength, making it suitable for larger structures.
The Quikrete system sets up in just hours, making it quicker to install in houses, offices, and other structures than traditional concrete. It can also be installed in damp conditions, making it ideal for construction projects during rainy seasons. Quikrete’s ability to set up in wet conditions also reduces dust exposure, reducing the risk of unsafe work environments for workers.
In summary, Quikrete is a lightweight, non-expansive concrete mix that offers superior strength, faster installation time, and versatility. Its ability to set up in wet conditions also makes it an ideal choice for construction projects during rainy seasons.
Can concrete coatings be used outside?
Concrete coatings are a versatile and functional alternative to traditional flooring for both interior and exterior spaces. They not only look great but are also non-slip, making them both beautiful and functional. Concrete Coatings Hawaii, serving most of O’ahu, offers these coatings to transform any concrete floor or outdoor space. Interior uses of concrete coatings are numerous, as they can be applied to any concrete flooring, including carpet and tile. This makes concrete a great choice for both indoor and outdoor spaces, providing a beautiful and functional solution for your home.
Will QUIKRETE harden in cold weather?
Optimal curing conditions are characterized by ample moisture, moderate temperature, and minimal wind. It is recommended that curing commence without delay and continue for a period of five days in conditions of warm weather, at a temperature of 70 degrees Fahrenheit or above. Alternatively, a period of seven days is advised in conditions of colder weather, at a temperature of 50 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
What is the best concrete for outside?
Conventional concrete is an appropriate material for use in the construction of driveways, sidewalks, and curbs. However, fast-setting cement may be a more suitable option for the setting of fence posts and mailboxes.
How long does concrete sealer last outside?
Exterior concrete should be sealed in freeze-thaw regions, such as New Mexico, Texas, Alabama, Georgia, South Carolina, and parts of California, Louisiana, and Florida. Sealing concrete can help maintain its appearance, stain repellence, dust reduction, abrasion resistance, chemical resistance, or for specific purposes like stain repellence, dust reduction, abrasion resistance, or chemical resistance.
Unsealed concrete can be damaged by oil, salt, fertilizer, and other household chemicals. Sealers typically cost $0. 15 to $0. 25 per square foot, while high-performance topical coatings, such as epoxies and urethanes, cost more typically $0. 50 to $2. 50 per square foot. The investment in sealer is well worth the expense, as replacing concrete costs generally $7 to $8 per square foot.
The appearance of the sealed surface depends on the type of sealer used. Chemically reactive sealers are nearly invisible, while solvent-based acrylic resin sealers and epoxies provide significant color enhancement and give concrete a high-gloss wet look. Water-based acrylic resin sealers provide moderate color enhancement and a satin appearance. Urethanes are available in a wide range of finishes, from matte to gloss, and can also be colored with translucent or opaque tints.
Sealers can be applied by a do-it-yourselfer using simple tools, such as a paint roller or pump-up sprayer. High-performance sealers, such as 100-solids epoxies, polyaspartic urethanes, and polyureas, require professional installation using special tools and application techniques.
Reactive penetrating sealers can repel water and deicing salts, while siliconeates can repel oil stains. However, they may be weakened by petroleum distillates and acidic chemicals that chemically etch concrete. High-performance epoxy or urethane systems are recommended for resistance to these substances.
Reactive chemical sealers last the longest, typically only wearing away if the substrate surface wears away, which may be 10 years or longer. Epoxy or urethane systems can provide similar performance, but acrylic-resin sealers offer the shortest performance life.
Sealers are environmentally friendly, as concrete is locally made and can last for many decades with proper care. Water-based products are generally considered the most environmentally friendly, while solvent-based sealers may not be sold in certain states. Contact your concrete sealer supplier to learn more about state regulations.
What is the best concrete finish for outdoors?
Honed concrete is often confused with polished concrete, which is created differently and has a slippery finish. It is best for outdoor use, while polished concrete is suitable for indoor use. Pavilion Finish Concrete, which is ground similarly to honed concrete but acid-etched, provides an improved anti-slip finish. This type of concrete is ideal for outdoor use around pools, with a similar appearance to honed concrete.
What is the difference between concrete and QUIKRETE?
Quikrete is a lightweight, non-expansive concrete mix designed for quick installation and structural integrity. Its non-existent coefficient of expansion allows it to be installed quickly, making it more attractive to construction companies and installers. This makes Quikrete a stronger product with higher compressive and tensile strength, making it suitable for larger structures.
The Quikrete system sets up in just hours, making it quicker to install in houses, offices, and other structures than traditional concrete. It can also be installed in damp conditions, making it ideal for construction projects during rainy seasons. Quikrete’s ability to set up in wet conditions also reduces dust exposure, reducing the risk of unsafe work environments for workers.
In summary, Quikrete is a lightweight, non-expansive concrete mix that offers superior strength, faster installation time, and versatility. Its ability to set up in wet conditions also makes it an ideal choice for construction projects during rainy seasons.
📹 How to Use Sikacryl® Ready-Mix Stucco Patch
Sikacryl Ready-Mix Stucco Patch is an easy to use, acrylic-based, textured stucco patch for repairing spalls and cracks in stucco …
Thank you for sharing your experience. Living in southwest New Mexico, I found myself with holes in my perimeter rock walls. I received an average work estimate to refill the rock wall holes for the sum of $1000.00 Being retired, I decided to try my hand and fill them myself with mortar “N” with a strengthening additive; armed with a bag, a trowel, gloves, a wet sponge, a chisel and stone hammer, my cost was under $70.00. I filled my rock wall holes with motar and rock found on my property. Thanks again!
I lived next to an interior and exterior Plasterer when I was kid. I remember them counting shovelfuls of sand loading trucks, then loading up bags of lime and cement. Different colors of sand for different stucco. And heard them discussing different mixes for different jobs. Thanks Mike, always interesting!
Thank you Mike for explaining the difference between type “S” and type “N”. This is something that I have wondered about for years now and nobody had been able to give me a real answer that would make sense until I viewed your article! Thank you again and I enjoy your YouTube posts so much. I learn a lot from you. Keep up the good work!
Lime mortar was used to allow masonry buildings to breathe. The lime mortar works like a wick, through capillary action, draws moisture through the walls. Portland cement found in Type N/S/O mortars become a barrier to moisture movement. Lime mortar makes a difference in certain buildings. We have 120 yr houses double brick, Lime mortar, 0 insulation in the walls, Southern Ontario
Mike, I have been perusal since 2014. You have helped me defeat inhibition to start and gave me the confidence to complete several outdoor projects around my house here in Canada. Very similar climate here vs. PA.. Each of the projects are still standing, working and generally looking really good. Thank-you for entertaining, and enlightening us !!
Dear Mike, Thank you again for the great lessons on masonry. Hope to start my basement walkout project sometime before the end of summer and all your teaching is very helpful. Already finished the glass block windows in the basement and they came out beautiful–all with vents. God bless you and your family.
This was a great article and very helpful. What product would you recommend to ensure my concrete is at least 7% air entrained for some flat work (city requirements)? Also, I’ve been reading on the reverse engineering of Roman concrete and was actually experimenting with some recipes. Anyways, I’m in Michigan and curious what products are sold or can be used for air entrapment?
Great article. I’m repairing flagstones sitting on limestone screenings on the ground. Between the flagstones there is some kind of mortar. The mortar has been coming loose in some spots and flagstones come loose and weeds growing. What should I use to repair? I’m in Canada 2 hours drive north of Toronto or roughly 4 hours drive north of Pittsburg. We get a little colder than you in winter, say about 5 to 10 degrees F colder. THANKS
My daughter said to me yesterday why is there a chunk missing and a hole in our entryway steps? I said well Mike would say see that metal bar thats all rusted in there… Well water got in there rusted the metal expanded it and busted up the concrete! Now that i know how to fix it i may include her in the repair but she is a teenager so will probably lose interest fast! Lol
Many years ago I managed some property in the French Quarter of New Oleans. Construction there is very controlled. I needed to tuck point a brick building and my permit said to use 12 parts sand to mortor. I didn’t underrstand at the time but complied. Later I discovered this mix is used because the bouldings are old and the foundations are constantly experiencing differential settlement. The weak mix prevents spalling or otherwise cracking the brick as the building shifts about. As you say Mike, what works here doesn’t work over there. Good article!!
I use premix for convenience. I am by no means a pro just an experienced DIYer. I use type S for most work unless it involves stone. Not sure if it was right but after 10 years my garage and house foundation are still standing. I was always told type S for below grade and N is only for above grade and never thought twice about it. Thanks for giving me a better understanding of the mixes.
Thanks Mike I like perusal you… your a maestro in this work. You have a great style of presentation. Because of you I’ve gained the confidence to do small jobs. “builders” have been to my home but I was foolish lacking any experience and got ripped off badly, should have seen it coming when they took their spurs off the boots. You live and learn. Thanks you are a good man. From the UK.
As unusual, great article Mike. Currently doing a major restoration on a big carriage house built in 1899. The brick made then were of course pretty darn soft compared to today’s brick so I’ve been adding sand to the Type S SpecMix. Limestone restoration of course a weaker mix is desired so I’ll use Type N indoors and Type S outdoors. What I personnel gleaned from your article is that Type N is stronger than I thought. What I thought was Type N until now is actually Type O and I’ve personnel never seen Type O mix for sale. But as you like to say–we should have the basic masonry skill to mix our own.
I swear to God, for every article that says to use one mortar type, I can find 4 more that say to use something else. I have a 130 year old farm house with a field stone foundation. This Old House says to use type S, then they have another article that says type N. The stones in my foundation appear to be granite, so what mortar do you recommend for the aforementioned type of foundation wall that I have AND what exactly will happen if I stick with the type S mortar, which I already started tucking and pointing with? I live in northern Indiana near Michigan border…so cold winters
Thanks for this great article Mike. Really helps connect the dots in the trade. It’s interesting to hear you mention adobe and other historical practices. Are you familiar with modern “natural building practices” like strawbale homes and earth plaster? It would be interesting to hear your thoughts on different techniques using only natural materials.
I like your articles, thanks for posting them !!! we do masonry restoration work here in Massachusetts and i have used those 2 types of bags of type s mortar too, the only differences i noticed about them is the color and the GREEN bag has a ” thinner ” sand and i prefer to use it for pointing skinny joints because the other mortar has more coarse sand and it makes it almost impossible to point some skinny joints of bricks like they have here in boston,although not too many places sell the green bag anymore! thanks for posting your articles,you’re the best !
sooo much great info you publish on the website .. and think it’s great you republish some of the older content and refresh it again with new vids. You’ve done soooo much work already and these reviews refreshed are a HUGE delight. Thanks again Mike. Hope you get some fun travels in again this year. Thank you for this website.
Hey Mike, really cool to see a vid from ya. I tell ya what Mike, I am of Irish decent and grew up on construction sites in the UK. My Dad (the Boss) would tell them to throw me off the first floor when I was 4/5 years old. He would ALWAYS catch me…..THAT is a cool Dad. When it comes to mixes….3 shovels soft sand….one shovel Portland. God bless n peace to ya.
How could they make cement products more confusing….it’s insane. That goofy m-a s on work acronym is something I think I may actually remember when choosing a mortar in the future. I bought a giant bag of cement that just said “plastic” on the label and still have no clue what it was. Mixed it with number 20 sand and it looks cool as a stucco on a cmu wall but still confused on what it should actually be used for….yeah I just wing it sometimes.
Hello Mike. This is the answer to the question I was referring to I asked you before. You explained it well. Thanks for the article! 🙏 P.s. did you get to see the Pyramis of Egypt? I saw a article showing it was a reconstruction in the early 1900’s with photos of the building, but they said it could have actually been new construction, and depictions from peoples drawings in the 17th/18yh century all had drawings of them different than how they are now. Did you check and know its its not just Plaster (of Paris) on the inside and outside walls? Obviously they won’t let to scratch the wall to take samples, but from experience just looking at the material is it possible to tell what it actually is made up of? P.p.s. the Free masons used codes and ciphers, and it seems that that CODE they used to label letters on the bags is a skip cipher (for MaSoN wOrK). I wonder if the person that came up with that was a Freemason. Again, thanks for the article.
Hi Mike.. hope all is well. Im confused. I live in Pa in Hershey. I need to repoint my chimney. My house is double brick construction, so the brick is load bearing. For the chimney, Im reading type S is too strong and could possible damage the brick due to expansion. Should I be using type N? Also when repiinting the house walls, being they are structural, should i use type S for repointing? H E L P Thanks again Jeff
Yeah, I like that Type S Quikrete. They make a good ready-mix. .. I think it is a true lime-portland mix. Whereas Brik-Lok Types N and S don’t have lime, instead it has air to give it workability. When air replaces the lime, that’s called ‘masonry cement’, but it doesn’t ‘grab’ the brick as good as a true Portland-Lime cement.. That’s why I like that Quikrete brand👍
I did enjoy it, very much. God bless you Mike! You look great! I’ve been online all day and night trying to figure out what I can do instead of tiling. I was prepared to tile but realized the porcelain I bought on sale for $12 to do my tub surround required a $50blade $40hole saw and $36 bag of modified mortar. So I thought, I’ve already got the hardi board up, can I make the tub surround in cement and stain polish and seal it. Would that work and what product for the cement … Uggh. I only have about $100to work with.
Hi Mike, I’m new to YouTube & your articles, but I have watched a lot of them in the last few weeks. I’m in north Florida & need some advice. I recently purchased a 120 year old building that has old brick parapet walls. The exterior walls are fine, but some of the interior brick is crumbling & in need of re-pointing. The entire wall is 18″ thick & I’m currently removing the damaged sections half way down & gonna rebuild & re-stucco it. Some guys are saying I should just plaster over the whole wall with rapid set mortar & paint it to lock everything together. I’m afraid to do that because of the old lime mortar that was originally used. Should I just re-brick, re-poinr & plaster with type n mortar mix or cover the whole thing with rapid set 7,000 psi? Only thing that worries me is the wall being able to breathe properly. I’m putting a new 50 mil duro last roof on & they will cover over the parapet walls, but the need to b repaired first. Any advice would b greatly appreciated. Thanks
So, I live in El Paso Tx and it’s a dry hot desert. Which is best to fill in rock walls? I have to do it myself and it’s a daunting job Because my mid century home is completely surrounded by it probably about 1500-2000 feet of it. Should I worry about different colors happen when I revisit the job from time to time? This would be the first time I do this. I’m nervous but not afraid. Lol
Interesting. I would have presumed the S and N were relative to the types of Lime used in the premix. Type S (allegedly for special) is pretty much mix and go, like when it’s slaked to be hydrated lime rather than raw calcined burnt lime it holds more water than type N (which I ‘ve heard is normal) also hydrated. I’m out here in New Zealand and no one in Australasia makes type S, which means we cant accurately reproduce the type of bagged mixes you might find in USA or UK, but I’ve found if you slake type N to a putty and mature it then add that to your mix you achieve basicly the same result. I’ve been told by experts type N is no good for certain things, but I’ve used it, and its fine. When you get down to nitty gritty itnis a different animal to hydraulic lime, but if you play around with pozzalans you can make a pretty strong mix that sets up early. I got told coarse pumice wouldn’t work, but again, I’ve tried it and got good results. I did an inch thick render over a stone fireplace with type N hydrated lime, coarse and fine pumice (but not powdered as advised), a bit of linseed, and in about two days it was leather hard ready for finishing. Same lime with a silica sand at a quarter inch can take more than a week or two to get firm enough. Bit of a sidetrack, but the moral of the story is at the end of the day when lime carbonates it’s the same stuff no matter what you use, but what you use does affect how you have to work, or ammend your mix. Anyway, that’s my familiarity with the S & N hydrated variants, and as such the rationale for my assumption that’s what Quickcrete might have used in their proprietry mortar mix.
Watched a bunch of your articles now and this one is another great one. So when you’re wrapping up towards the end and you mention that ratio that is listed in the Indiana Limestone Handbook. It’s one part portland, one part lime, and six parts sand. Which newer pre mixed bag is that closest to in your estimation? Type N, Type S?
Let me tell you you’ve made this incredibly easier for me. I’ve always been interested in concrete, Masonary veneer stone work, but I thought the whole process of concrete was much more complicated. I’m gonna go out now and fix a wall that fell down 10 years ago in front of my house and has made me crazy because I refuse to pay a small fortune to fix this when it’s just piling up the stones straight being careful and putting concrete it was a freestanding wall that eventually fell because of tree root. Thank you so very very much
Hi Mike, Writing from Montréal Québec. I’m perusal your articles for maybe 3 weeks, from Egypt to Florida to Pensylvania, i love your articles, it’s instructive and also a nice touch of history all over the world ! I understand the concept of “mortar”, “ciment” and “concrete”. In my brain, mortar is what is between brick and stone. I understand also that it can play the role of stuco but: Why calling a mortar( N or S whatever) a ciment or a stuco? I have to replace my bricks under the balcony of the second floor, the old original waterholic bricks mostly all explode since 1925. So i bought a bag of mortar type N. Those hidden bricks were the only one not changed in the front of the 3 floors house but were hidden by fascia and soffit….totally stupid but this what they did maybe in the 80’s. I got lucky, I found the exact red claybrick ” riverdale bark” brand new for .70 cents in us dollars. Anyway, now i’m making experience( practicing like you are repeating in your articles) with 3 samples of the same mortar type N premix: More sandy, more neutral and more liquid. I want to know which one stick to the brick better because yesterday was a fiasco in front of my house in the ladder, the mortar did not stick the bricks together, maybe i did not wait long enough idk. So i’m practicing in my backyard without neighbors or walkers perusal, without potential city inspectors( never know with them). I have no particular questions, which you the best, take good care Mike ! ps: english is my not my first language, my english is like 6/10
Hey Brother… Well done…. I think your message was clear, kind of like the the horse stomp once for “1” twice for “2.” Use for up and down … not for patio… I think I got it😳🤔…. You are deffinetly helping many people. When All is said and done… You are TOP NOTCH BROTHER…. GOD BLESS… Ernie
Mike, all your articles are great. I’m in central Texas where we have high humidity, hot weather for 8 months, 2 months of cold, sometimes extreme lately, and 2 months of heavy rain. That said, I need to re-point my 2 front entrance walls, they are white Texas stone, they stand alone at the entrance with a gate. Being that all the existing mortar has deteriorated I’m nervous about what to use moving forward. I don’t believe in this area on a vertical application that it needs straight Portland/sand, plus this wouldn’t work with white stone. Here for white stone they mix, TYNE N WHITE MORTAR with white sand. I believe this would work but should I add some Portland and will it change the color of the mortar which I’m trying to achieve what is called white mortar to the-point all the joints. Thoughts ? Thanks
You really should look at Kirk Giordano plastering page I think you may like his page. He does mostly stucco, but he does talk a lot about the various mixtures and the knowledge of what will stick where and how the most important thing is to know the products and their uses he says that takes the longest to learn. As he says and he is about from the late 70’s in Cali he started in the unions. Sorry just my 2 cents, he is quite a colorful character. You have giving another great as always.
Hi Mike, In your explanation of ingredients to make these variations of masonry cements is kinda of confusing as well the product you show in the Brown bag that says masonry cements. The Brown bag (masonry cement) is not “lime mortar”. It is a mixture of masonry lime and Portland cement (type n/s). Cant tell because of the tape on the bag. So when referr to this as lime mortar it is not. My understanding is that lime mortar is masonry lime and sand nothing else. I have never seen lime mortar in a bag. Just plain old masonry lime. This Brown bag in the article eliminates the need to have on hand both Masonry lime and Portland cement in separate bags. There are two ways to make mortar, The first is masonry lime, Portland cement, and sand. The second is masonry cement type n/s and sand. You tend to refer to this second method and add more Portland to change the strength of the masonry cements.
You are exactly what people need as a teacher these days. Everyone thinks things have to be too precise or complicated, in a way we have become too OCD and real life efficiency is effected for no real gain. Thanks for bringing some old school efficiency back into this inefficient world!! I am fortunate enough to have known old schoolers so I am comfortable with and understand the truth in “it’s not a big deal”. Which is one of the greatest lessons you give these youngsters and it’s true!
Hello Mike. Nice explanations. QUESTION: I’m about to lay down a slate porch (exterior). The Quikrete guy told me to use their professional grade blended type S to mortar the slate. You say you do not use it “on the flat”. I am in Reading Pennsylvania. What do you recommend I use to mortar my slate. I am laying it down on a self leveled underlayment. Thanks!
Hi Mike, maybe you can help me. I have been going crazy trying to figure out how to match the existing mortar color (or whatever material it is) of many modern stone walls here in Connecticut. These are not old farm walls, but the type you see in nice back yards, around patios, around pool areas etc. Most of them have the same type of material in the joints, it is yellowish/whiteish in color and has visible sand texture. It almost has a beach sand color. I need to re-tuck point a section of a stone wall that has this yellowish/whiteish/tannish rough texture type of material and I would like to match the color as close as possible. I see this mortar color everywhere here in ct, on stone walls, between the joints of thermal bluestone treads/landings, between bricks. Sometimes it is very white looking and smoother (particularly when between the joints of thermal bluestone or bricks) and other times it is the rougher texture and more yellowish/tannish color like when I see it used to tuck point fieldstone walls. My issue is when I have used straight type s or type n mortar it dries very dark grey, almost blue, very different than the much lighter color I regularly see around here. I did a bluestine tread recently and used type s, the color of the type s was much much different than the lighter color of the rest of the treads. Do you have any advise on how I can get the right color to match more closely the existing mortar material I am matching? The colors I see here are much closer to the color of the joints of the stone behind you when you are filming in front of the house.
Hi there! I am in Pennsylvania as well how funny haha. Anyways, I am doing stone veneer on my fireplace wall and i bought the yellow bags of quikrete type N mortar to install the stone straight on cement board. Before I go ahead and start the project, do you think this process im doing will be okay? Thank you!
I have been binge perusal your articles for the past several hours. Thanks for teaching me so much. I feel ready to practice so I can build pillars in my crawl space and fix the outside of my fireplace. I especially like how you rub some mud on a repair job to match the repair to the original. Never thought to do that.
I have used S and mix it with sand (3 sand to 1 S). I’m using Federal. I’m in Detroit, so the weather is pretty close to yours. Is the Quikrete pre-mixed with the sand? I have a 1927 home and the mortar isn’t super hard. So far, it seems like what I’ve done has worked. This is what a mason (and the supply store) said to do. I need to use white mortar and some buff color powder to get it to match.
I help the Mason build my parent’s basement fireplace back in the 70s. Jimmy Rondanelli made up his on mix. I’ve used polymer modified grout when pointing my outdoor fireplace and it has held up well. I was able to purchase it in a color that complemented the stone. Any thought of doing a YouTube on grout vs. Mortar?
I just used that same S mortar mix for a 3 story 2-flue chimney in my new house. Stacked about 50 pairs of the chimney blocks then brick up through the roof. Im up in maine. Outside on the roof i added a bit of portland to it. My thinking was stiffening it a little for freeze/thaw. I added basically 7 parts s mortar mix (which is already portland/lime/sand) and half a part portland; 14:1. And I added a large slate cap to keep water off. Unfortunately thats not to code in some areas but its fine where I am and it does a great job protecting the masonry.
I am a (45-year-old) landscaper from Calgary Canada. Thank you for the article! I am going to do a small tree well with river rocks and your advice! (I am going to us emy hands, no fancy tools from home depot!) I am very thank full to you for showing the stone part. I have no more words, thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. And I will do the same if I am confident or come to to the zen like you!
Hi Mike – thank you for all your uploads – I learned so much! Question: I repaired my exterior concrete steps using quikrete. If I don’t seal or paint them, they will fall apart again next spring in these Quebec, Canada winters. Can I paint them with Portland to get a uniform colour and then use sealer? Or seal first, then paint over with the portland? Thanks again for all the great advice on your uploads – you’re a fantastic teacher!