CSST gas lines are designed for exterior wall layouts, but they need to be grounded and shielded from corrosive environments like exposure to acid or chloride-based cleaning solutions. They can pass through solid walls and be directly connected to fixed appliances. However, CSST should not be confused with flexible gas appliance connectors, which join a moveable appliance to your home or building’s gas supply line.
Pro Flex CSST gas line is a commercially used pipe that transfers natural gas through walls, joists, and other ceilings. It has a solid surface to protect the gas line from external damage, allowing for secure installation. Matrix Company Solutions Corp. strongly recommends having a professional install or replace any gas lines. CSST can be routed through wood, but the hole should be 1/2″ larger than the CSST. Striker plates may be needed if it’s close to the edge of a stud.
Most places with building codes do not allow flexible pipe to pass through exterior walls. Section 6.6.13 of B149.1 states that corrugated stainless steel tubing (CSST) and fittings shall be protected against physical damage in such areas. CSST gas piping can be run through concrete, but it must be set back from the face of the stud (in wood-frame construction) or protected by a nailing plate. All exposed portions of CSST piping installed outdoors, when not underground, must be protected by a metal covering.
Pro-flex and Gastite are both forms of CSST pipe. CSST can be installed in walls, but it requires more protection than black-iron pipes. It is not a good idea to run flexible lines in walls, as it is supposed to be solid gas pipe close to the gas appliance, then a short run of the pipe.
📹 How to Properly Transition from Black Iron Pipe to HOME-FLEX CSST
How to properly transition a gas line from black iron pipe, to HOME-FLEX Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing (CSST). Become a …
What is the problem with CSST gas line?
It is possible for lightning to damage CSST gas line systems, which can result in a dangerous power surge that may lead to gas leaks or fires. To guarantee the safety of the system, it is advised that a licensed electrician conduct an inspection of the CSST. In the event that the system is not in compliance, professional assistance can be provided to safeguard the property in question.
Can I use Flex gas line outside?
The item may be utilized in an in-ground setting, provided that it is situated within a non-metallic conduit that is at least 1/2″ larger than the CSST’s outer diameter (OD), equipped with a venting mechanism, and devoid of any internal fittings within the conduit.
Can you put pipes on outside walls?
To prevent heat loss, it is recommended to align plumbing fixtures with interior walls and insulate pipes in exterior walls. The wall cavity containing the pipes should be air-sealed by caulking or foaming seams between the back wall and framing, and sealing any holes through the framing for the piping. Cavity insulation should also be installed behind the pipes. If the house has a hydronic heating system, insulating the steam distribution and return pipes can reduce heat loss by up to 90%, providing a quick payback on investment.
Can you run wire through an exterior wall?
Building owners often run wires to exterior features and secondary buildings, but leaving exposed wires exposed is not safe. To protect these wires from the elements, many choose to run them through an exterior wall with a conduit. A conduit provides a versatile tube for directing wiring and protects the wires from harmful environmental conditions. To run a cable through an exterior wall using a conduit, follow these steps: 1) Review the plan, 2) Turn off the power, 3) Install connectors, 4) Mark studs, 5) Drill a hole, 6) Cut and bend the conduit, 7) Check the hole, 8) Slide in the conduit, 9) Install supports, 10) Pull the wire through, 6) Cut and connect the wire, and 8) Seal Gaps.
Can you use black pipe for an exterior gas line?
Professionals must install pipes, which come in lengths of 2 inches to 10 feet and have a diameter of ¼ inch to 2 inches. Black iron pipes are commonly used for transferring natural gas from the outside to the house. CSST pipes, or corrugated stainless steel tubing, are ideal for installing new gas appliances in the house due to their lightweight and easy installation. CSST pipes can be bent around edges and corners without adding new joints and fittings. If you choose between CSST and steel pipes, choose CSST due to their lightweight nature and ability to accommodate long pipes.
Can I run a gas line on the outside of my house?
Homeowners often install gas pipelines to exterior appliances to access natural gas, which is beneficial for several reasons. However, installing a gas pipeline is not easy and requires knowledge of local building codes, safety certifications, and a permit from the municipality. Professionals trained in proper installation techniques are required for any natural gas work to prevent loss of life or property damage. Therefore, homeowners should consider hiring natural gas professionals before attempting this project on their own.
Is CSST rated for exterior use?
Home-FLEX® CSST, a division of Valencia Pipe Company, is a superior gas pipe product that was invented in the late 1980s as an alternative to black iron pipe used in homes. It flexes with structures in case of earthquakes and is easy to install. When installed outdoors, the yellow jacketing must be intact along the entire run, and any areas not covered by the jacket should be wrapped with self-bonding silicone tape or sleeved to prevent damage from acids and chlorides.
If installed within 6 feet of the ground, the tubing must be routed within a conduit or chase, with no fittings inside. Care must be taken to prevent water, dirt, debris, and insects from entering the conduit, and entry points should be cap off.
What is the best pipe for an exterior gas line?
HDPE piping is recommended for outdoor applications due to its resistance to corrosion, punctures, and cracks, and its ability to withstand higher pressure levels. CSST piping is better for indoor jobs due to its flexibility and ability to perform in tight spaces. A contractor can help determine the best gas pipe for your application, whether indoor or outdoor. Red Cap Plumbing and Air offers assistance in selecting and installing gas lines.
Can a flexible gas line go through a wall?
Flexible connectors are typically three to six feet in length and accessible, yet they cannot be concealed or traversed through walls, floors, or ceilings. However, exceptions exist for gas ranges and clothes dryers, which typically allow for a length of six feet.
Can you run CSST through an exterior wall?
It is possible to route CSSST through a masonry wall using a conduit that is ½” larger than that used for CSST. However, it is essential to seal the gap between the masonry, conduit, and CSST in order to prevent fires caused by the CSST and lightning strikes.
Can you run gas pipe on outside wall?
Running a gas pipe externally is common and is now standard for re-routing gas pipes due to reduced pipe run and pressure drop. However, it is crucial to have the pipe fitted by a Gas Safe registered engineer, as it is a legal requirement and vital for safety. The gas engineer can advise on whether to run the pipe internally or externally, considering the unique quirks of your property. This ensures that the gas pipe is properly clipped and sleeved to the wall.
📹 I Installed Flexible Gas Line From Home Depot… (It Leaked!)
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Your vid is very good, I know for a fact that it is a lot of work, but you actually make it look relaxing and satisfying. Very clever how you minimized the leak risk by not using fittings on the turn going to the water heater. I noticed that you strapped the pipe at the T for the black pipe going outside, also noticed that there was no siding on the exterior walls with it means that: “if vinyl siding will be used on this application” nails will be used for that. What is the recommended clearance between the OSB and the gas line to guarantee the siding nails will not perforate the pipe? Thank you.
I’m a Tennant connecting a gas line for a furnace. My apartments main gas line is 1/2″ all I have is 3/8 pvc, my buddy says it’s better to use steel and pvc is not compatible for gas. I don’t see the difference 🙄 My question is the 3/8 is too small to fit the nipple. Is it acceptable using the pipe tape to build up the smaller plastic pipe and thread it on the larger steel gas pipe? It gas checks with no leaks and plastic won’t spark. So far the heater has been phenomenal. If you want a recommendation for a wall heater pm me. Peace.
Good article, I use CSST quite often. Be careful with the red o-ring, real easy to cut it sliding over the end of CSST. Only one question, doesn’t CSST require a ground clamp on one end of your run? Better check codes, and what’s required by the manufacturer. Another suggestion, use wrenches not website locks, right tool for the right job.
I see you have a Laundry Room. That’s going to be a lot of laundry for five children. I was wondering if Cedar could use a propane gas dryer. Anyhow, great job going on! p.s. the AltE Youtube site really breaks down how to size a solar system. The article series I am referring to is called “Off Grid Solar Power System Design.” If you watch the first five articles, you will know how to size your entire system. I am taking notes right now. This series is a Golden Nugget in solar design. Amy Beaudet also shows you how to hook up the system in some of the other articles of that 22-video series.
Just for future reference you should use a little pipe dope over the Teflon tape when making connections. It reduces friction between the tape and the threads which allows for a much better seal. For proof back out a fitting with just Teflon tape and you will see most of it is bunched up towards the outer most threads. Also you will notice much less force is needed to tighten a fitting when using pipe dope with tape. Due to less friction.
omg amateur you did everything wrong.. first off you NEVER put the Teflon on clockwise with your right hand while in direct sunlight – according to building code you NEVER ever do that trust me i’m a journeyman tube snapper for over 3 years – just kidding good job on the house, looks great and awesome article, it answered my questions I had for my next project .. like and sub’d
My first real job at 17 was plumber apprentice. My mom was dating a master plumber. It was new commercial plumbing. I wish we had that gas pipe and PEX for the water back then. Tracking down and fixing the leaks on all the black steel pipe fittings was a nightmare. You are doing a great job. I’m plumbing my house by myself right now, also. A lot of the tricks are coming back to me, mostly after I do it wrong. LOL
Gas utility guy here. Back when this stuff came out we had manufacturer training and cert cards issued. Suppliers weren’t even sposed to sell to non certified fitters. Proper sizing is critical. A given nominal id csst will not pass anywhere near the same amount of gas as black iron hence for a given flow rate csst always needs to be larger than a black iron application. Cant tell you how many I found contractor ran undersized lines because they based size on black pipe sizing charts. CSST has manufacturer specfic flow rates at different pressures that must be faithfully adhered to. The corrugations offer quite a bit of resistance to flow. Also a lot of regs regarding nail plates and partition penetrations. I think you may have misspoke about running elevated pressures in residential applications. Elevated pressure is where csst becomes way more cost effective. Typical 2 psi system allows smaller tubing to be used (cheaper) but requires a second pressure cut indoors before serving equipment.
I wouldn’t want that flex pipe anyplace in my house inside a wall. It’s too dangerous, someone down the road drills a hole in the ceiling to mount a smoke detector and that pipe will easily be pierced. Black pipe which is more difficult to install will not easily be pierced by nails screws or drill bits. That flex stuff is dangerous
maybe old but just looked up the cheetah system i dont like it maybe because im old fashioned in my 40’s but for a do it yourselfer it cld be alright. like how a master plumber feels abought shark bites but if i ever found all that i wld grab it tho use it in basements or other places i cld change it out easily. if you used it how did it work out for you?
That stuff is junk my company used it a few times it leaks I’m baffled how it’s available to home owners to buy. I’ve been s master plumber for 20 years and that product is the worst. Also u shouldn’t use Teflon on gas pipe it dries out over time and leaks occur. Nice work tho u should try proflex at Lowe’s it’s good. I use track pipe and ward flex
Am I the only one that’s absolutely shook his apprentice hit a 50 psi main line? I’m sitting here weak af. Like I’ve had some bad days as a gas service apprentice but goddam. I’d straight up switch trades if I pulled some shit like that… Also, no shit gas code is yellow. If you haven’t arrived there yet you shouldn’t be perusal this article or installing your own csst! It can be tricky, especially if you don’t use a cutter designed to cut csst. I was literally on a gas leak call today where a local contractor failed to cut his csst with the correct tubing cutter and the fitting was pouring out gas directly next to the furnace as a result. It saves lives to invest in the proper training and tools to complete the job. All I’m saying is take what the homie on YouTube, who hires techs that don’t know the difference between gas and water lines, with a grain of salt. Do extensive research, buy the correct tools (as expensive as they may be) and assess the risks before installing your own csst gas lines… either that or research a good, reputable local gas contractor and give them your money instead. We charge good money and have a license for a reason. Fresh article tho
So, the ceiling connection, was the run too long for a single run pull with one person? Or did your bought length make it necessary to splice two pipes together somewhere anyway? Sure glad you knew enough to know there are different Teflon tapes for different applications. Great job! You’re getting closer and closer to “move in day”.
2 years ago they announced going to robot arms instead of moving slag manually…assuming the tractor you mention was part of it being moved manually. Not exposing employees to hot slag is a win, but some will probably complain it’s a loss of an entry level job despite a tech to operate the robot being hired.
why not use a gas dryer if your doing off grid and your usieng wind and soler an electric dryer will use a lot of power if you have it gas heated than its far less all it does than is turn the moter insted of power heating elements as well you could also use a propane fired furnace to for the days the wood stove isent enough
At a previous home this same yellow flex line was installed, no stainless was visible at the gas fittings. My existing home has the same flex line and the gas fittings appear similar to this article. Just a bit of stainless exposed. A Rinnai water heater was installed later and that plumber said no stainless should be visible otherwise the brass and stainless will interact causing corrosion. All three installations were done by licensed plumbers. ?
Be very cautious using any with rubber O-ring seals within. Parker is a brand that uses brass on stainless to deform the end to a flare that is automatically flared when the fitting is put together. There are a few brands that utilises a rubber O ring internally to complete the seal. That may be ok if and only if that fitting stays in an area that is accessible and repair can be made. When in doubt a solid mechanical seal can’t be beat.
So am I right in thinking a propane tanker will come down the “Road of Endeavour” and fill your system periodically? With your skills you must have thought about heating a water tank with heat from the wood burner, and save on propane. Why did you not do this, I’m curious as to your thought processes? Always a big supporter, wishing you and yours the best.
@Red Poppy Ranch Heath, I have been with your website since nearly the beginning and I do remember when you found that windfall of electrical components at the dump, I’m still in awe of your ability to find steals ‘n deals! Congrats on the tractor, I look forward to seeing what you’ve found. When you mention the condition of the road, it makes me wonder; when the time comes for your family to move into the house, what will you do about mail delivery? Will USPS (or any other delivery company) deliver to the ranch? Will you establish an address (or is there an address already assigned) for your property?
Maybe I’m missing something but this yellow material outter coating should never exist within the connection itself from what I seem to understand from perusal this guy I don’t see him cut back this yellow material from the sealing point…that would mean the neoprene o-ring along with the split ring and slip ring are all on this yellow coating…which from what I understand should have been trimmed back…or am I wrong??? Just sayin back in early 90s I remember this just coming out in my area and you had to attend classes just to buy this now I guess who cares…did I hear this man is a plumber??? What state??? Just askin
One thing on the insulation, you have 2×4’s and that does not allow for thicker insulation unless you add a second layer on the inside. Only one thing I would have done different, but it costs more is use 2X6 studs on the outside so I could get more insulation, but one way around this is use insulation board on the inside or on the outside wall as even in places where it is too dry to snow during the winter such as where I am that does make up for the cost of the insulation based on the cost of heating alone. It is possible to be cost effective in the cost of heating in just ONE year.
Do you what the MAX test pressure for this Home Flex (fittings) is? My guy installed a gas system on a new house with a lot of black iron and mixed with some 1/2″ Home Flex for the bbq and range lines and test gauge is leaking off slowly and we can’t find a leak anywhere. He tested at around 40-50 PSI when he was trying to get the leak to show and I’m now wondering if he may have damaged the fittings if there only rated at around 30-40 PSI. Thanks for any help.
When we built, we figured we would only need propane for the stove and water heater as well. We used only wood for heat for four years, but then we had to use electric heaters when we were out of town, and when everyone was sick, it was real hard to tend a fire with the flu. We ended up putting in a Empire ultra efficient space heater that actually heats the entire house, and now we can use either/or. It’s nice to have the heat come on in the morning without stoking the stove!
needs bonding and i would never buy the csst from big box stores(or rather they shouldn’t sell it) because as an HVAC tech, we are supposed to be certified to sell and install this material, one wrong connection and your new house is leveled.also your inspector should know enough that high pressure like 25 psi can actually seal a minor leak instead of showing a leak, we are told in our area that we only pressurize to 1 1/2 times the pressure the line will be under in normal circumstances which is in ” water column not psi. the Flashshield by gastite also has a bonding mesh incorporated into it unlike the home depot stuff. Also gastite makes termination fittings for stubbing through the wall to eliminate as many leak points as possible.be careful in the house in the event of a lightning strike if you dont bond that ENTIRE gas line properly.
Up here in Ontario Canada every point you have a Connection they make you put a trap. Is it the same there? I imagine that it would go outside of the drywall. That yellow stuff looks real nice to work with. I know working with black pipe can be a real treat. It looks good things are going fast. One step closer to the prize 🏆
Proper pressure for inspection by code is 3x working pressure (a minimum of 15 psi) to hold for 10 mins. Using black metal pipe to the outside is a mistake and will eventually rust out and leak inside the walls. They make proper brass terminations for CSST. and they make termination boxes for ranges. Working pressure for appliances inside a home is 1/2# pressure. Actual transport pressure inside a residence can be up to 2 psi. Commercial is 5 psi. Each hole your line goes through is supposed to be sealed with fire caulk. Between floors must also be fire caulked and have nail guards. You people making these homemade articles need to know what the hell you are doing before trying to teach people what you do not know. You’re gonna get someone hurt or worse. Your installation is not safe. You using a pipe wrench and website locks to tighten is wrong. You’ll never get a sealed line that way. 2 wrenches and some torque are needed to ensure a proper seal. Except for proflex. I am willing to bet an hour later you had pressure drops.
Hi,i notice that the PTFE tape is in a blue sleve, this is WATER fitting only, There is a yellow sleved one for GAS, The water one will biodegrade with the GAS chemicals. easy way to tell is it is hard to brake the GAS Type when you pull it, water one snaps easy, in the UK it was changed 25 / 30 years ago, please be safe .
Up here in the Canada we don’t have no white Teflon for gas eh, usually it’s yellow or we just use pipe dope. White Teflon for air and water only is what I was taught. And I’d put a piece of tape over the end of that line so no debris may violate your gas pipe eh. Nice clean install though, looks good.
I would or have like to see a close-up preparation and installation of the fitting. Fittings are money too, but as an auto tech who had serious surgery got stuck working for UTI. They bounced me from room to room teaching as $12k a year made it hard to keep instructors. They just found that I had 5 years as install & diagnostic tech for a local HVACR company. Many classes from manufacturers but before the stainless flex was invented and sold. It’s funny to think of the family farm where my younger brother and I took turns shooting food cans we sat on the 2k propane tank behind the garage in the early 70’s. Strange to think a new house, pour concrete basement with 3 bed, 1 bath and sump-pump cost $26,300 in 1963. Oh ya, they used copper pipe back then from tank to appliance drops.
With that first tee I just assumed you were making a drip leg. I thought why is he putting that drip leg through a hole in the wall. It took a second for me to process it. It’s interesting how many variations there are on gas pressure testing considering there’s only two codes. Some places only require a little over the operating pressure. I’m in Austin and they require 30 psi for 15 min for low pressure systems and 60 psi for med to high pressure systems. Gas tite is pretty expensive stuff but it definitely is nice when you need it. In your case where you have to go between joists and only have a couple of fixtures it’s wonderful. If you were paying a plumber, you’d make up that extra cost by saving on labor easily. However when you have houses with gas dryers, water heaters, furnaces, stoves, etc. and everything is under the house or in the attic, it’s definitely cheaper to use black iron especially with mega press. We’re not allowed to secure gas tite in the wall except where the stub out is. The reason is for nail protection because it’s so thin unlike black iron. If it’s allowed to be loose it will be pushed out of the way by a nail or screw but when it’s secured it will be penetrated.
I see that you use a knuckle buster wrench to tighten fittings. I call them that because if it slips that is what will happen. regular pipe wrench is safer. Main thing is that you do what works for you, and that the finished does not leak. I prefer to use black pipe, and flex only at the connections, but that can take longer. Also you can leave the line under test for longer than the specified, but not less. Also that is a great idea leaving the gauge on the line. Also I use NG in my home, and that never goes over .5 lbs.
Is this flexible gas line code in Indiana? We are running a new line from the original black pipe to a new gas dryer. At the termination point of the dryer, is a rigid black pipe used with the shut off valve? Also, should the hookup location be near the floor or mid wall? Great article. Very professional! Thanks!!
why ins’t the CSST bonded to ground? That is one of the most critical steps in installing this type of line. In addition the lines going to the side exterior walls the CSST line should be ran through a metal conduit or sheating to prevent puncturs from nails by sheetrock nails and other nails etc. The way you installed the line u should of ran Black Iron it would of been safer since you failed to use any of the safety precuations convering CSST. CSST improperly installed IS VERY DANGEROUS.
Be Warned: I had a contractor install a gas hot water heater in my home some 10 years ago. The contractor installed the Proflex hose that ran from my water heater to a connection in my upstairs bath closet to iron pipe that then ran to the furnace in my attic. Several years after installation I smelled gas in my closet. The hose was leaking gas at the union joint. I called my local gas utility they came out and shut the gas off. They then repaired the leak. I asked why for no reason it began leaking. The technician could offer no reason. A year later it began leaking gas again at the same joint. Same scenario I was shown the piece of the threaded end that was removed. A hole developed between the threads. No plausible reason was offered why it happened. I suggested humidity in the bathroom as evident on surface rust on the iron pipe. I was told this has no bearing on this leak. About a year later it happened again. SAME DEAL, this time the hole was larger and spewing more gas. I was livid. This time the tech added more iron pipe and relocated the connection to just inside the bifold door to where is easier access. I maintained it has to have something to do with humidity stainless steel thread into iron pipe, again I am told no. Tech wrapped the connection with a special tape to keep moisture off the connection. Just recently for the 4th time another gas leak. This time it was at the joint. I hired another contractor to remove this flex hose and it was replaced with a lifetime warranty track hose.
Channel Locks…. a great tool and you didn’t need many more to do the job…it’s great you have a propane dealer that delivers in the area… the mud issue is all about you having great soil for farming, but not very well suited for road building… your website is growing fast so crushed stone and drainage ditches with culverts then grassing over areas where no road or parking you’ll be able to afford the rock and you have the tractors to do the landscaping… all you need to do is watch how the land reacts in the rain and melt and improvise…. maybe you can even barter some plumbing skills and labor with a gravel company…. even your skills at septic installation can become a great business as new homes go up… the mud issue will resolve once you got the house all built and have time to address it. That septic system where I live would have cost $50,000 if done by a contractor, and your ability to do plumbing and electrical and all the carpentry you have saved a lifetime of MTG payments.
In the USA you have to be a license contractor to install any type of gas line as well as proper training in all different type of materials that you will use. When I run into a new product I make sure that I understand the way I’m suppose to use the new material. I’ve seen plenty of mistakes from handyman and wanna be plumbers. Good article and I like your advice for others that don’t know. Thanks for taking the time to do this.