DRYLOK® is a non-pigmented masonry waterproofer that can be used on floors and walls, holding up to foot traffic as a finished coat. It can be used before applying floor paint or latex, and is designed to seal out areas from where water seeping through can occur. DRYLOK is formulated specifically to waterproof bare masonry walls, whether they are made of concrete or another material.
DRYLOK is the first non-pigmented masonry waterproofer specifically formulated for use on masonry floor and wall surfaces. This patent-pending product is suitable for interior, exterior, above or below-grade walls, including basements, retaining walls, and bare concrete swimming pools, foundations, and more. For fish ponds, DRYLOK® Original is recommended.
DRYLOK Waterproofer is a simple solution with brush, roll, or spray application. It can be used below or above grade on stucco, retaining walls, and as a dry in solution. The DRYLOK Extreme latex base masonry waterproof coating is ideal for interior, exterior, above or below grade masonry walls, basement walls, and more.
One of the reasons why DRYLOK Masonry Waterproofer is chosen is its versatility, as it can be applied on either exterior or interior surfaces. Drylock is safe to apply to walls, but it is important to be aware of which floor sealer you choose.
In summary, DRYLOK is a versatile and effective solution for waterproofing masonry surfaces, making it an essential choice for homeowners looking to protect their property from moisture.
📹 HOW TO DryLok a Basement Wall / AND WHY
Moisture leaching into your basement can be a common problem, especially in older homes. In this video we talk about when …
Can you use DRYLOK on exterior brick?
DRYLOK® is a versatile material that can be applied to both interior and exterior masonry surfaces, irrespective of their grade.
What is the best way to waterproof exterior foundation walls?
Poly Wall® Waterproofing Barrier Systems are the best method for waterproofing new foundation walls. These below-grade systems minimize moisture-related issues, protecting the house from moisture intrusion down to its foundation. This not only protects the house’s integrity but also reduces repair and maintenance costs, creating a healthy environment. Contact Poly Wall® professionals for more information on waterproofing for new foundation walls.
Does DRYLOK waterproof?
DRYLOK® Masonry Waterproofer is a guaranteed solution that can stop water up to 10 psi and resist 98 mph hurricane winds. It can be applied to slightly damp surfaces, but best results are achieved when the surface is dry, clean, and free of grease, oil, form release compound, and paint. DRYLOK® Masonry Waterproofer is easier to apply due to its smooth, creamy consistency and one-step application process, saving time and eliminating the need to pre-wet the surface.
When applied according to directions, DRYLOK ® Original Masonry Waterproofer is warranted for 10 years, DRYLOK ® Extreme Masonry Waterproofer for 15 years, and DRYLOK ® Floor and Wall Masonry Waterproofer for 7 years. The coverage of DRYLOK ® Masonry Waterproofer varies depending on the surface’s porosity, with coverage ranging from 75-100 square feet per gallon.
What is better than DRYLOK?
Crystalline Waterproofing offers superior waterproofing performance compared to Drylok Extreme due to its crystalline technology that penetrates into concrete, forming insoluble crystals that block capillary pores and microcracks, effectively preventing water penetration. This makes it an ideal choice for areas with high hydrostatic pressure or severe water exposure. Unlike Drylok Extreme, which remains on the surface of the concrete, Crystalline Waterproofing can penetrate several millimeters into the concrete substrate, providing a comprehensive and long-lasting waterproofing solution.
Crystalline Waterproofing forms a permanent waterproofing barrier within the concrete matrix, providing long-term durability for projects like basements, water tanks, or tunnels. It is often used in renovation or repair projects where concrete has suffered from damage or deterioration. Crystalline Waterproofing also has high hydrostatic pressure resistance, making it a reliable choice for areas with high water pressure or continuous water exposure.
The choice between Drylok Extreme and crystalline waterproofing depends on factors such as the severity of water intrusion, the presence of cracks or damage in the concrete, the level of hydrostatic pressure, and the budget available. Consulting with a professional or waterproofing specialist is recommended to make an informed decision.
What is better than a drylock?
Crystalline Waterproofing offers superior waterproofing performance compared to Drylok Extreme due to its crystalline technology that penetrates into concrete, forming insoluble crystals that block capillary pores and microcracks, effectively preventing water penetration. This makes it an ideal choice for areas with high hydrostatic pressure or severe water exposure. Unlike Drylok Extreme, which remains on the surface of the concrete, Crystalline Waterproofing can penetrate several millimeters into the concrete substrate, providing a comprehensive and long-lasting waterproofing solution.
Crystalline Waterproofing forms a permanent waterproofing barrier within the concrete matrix, providing long-term durability for projects like basements, water tanks, or tunnels. It is often used in renovation or repair projects where concrete has suffered from damage or deterioration. Crystalline Waterproofing also has high hydrostatic pressure resistance, making it a reliable choice for areas with high water pressure or continuous water exposure.
The choice between Drylok Extreme and crystalline waterproofing depends on factors such as the severity of water intrusion, the presence of cracks or damage in the concrete, the level of hydrostatic pressure, and the budget available. Consulting with a professional or waterproofing specialist is recommended to make an informed decision.
Do I need to primer before DRYLOK?
DRYLOK® Wet Wall Bonding Primer is a crucial step in achieving a waterproof finish, which must be top-coated with DRYLOK® Waterproofer according to the label instructions. It is advised to wait 2 hours after primer application before waterproofing. Before use, read the product label and follow the directions. Lead dust can be released when scraping, sanding, or removing old paint, which can cause serious illness, especially in children. Pregnant women should also avoid exposure.
Wear a NIOSH-approved respirator and clean up with a HEPA vacuum and wet mop. For safety precautions, contact the National Lead Information Hotline or visit www. epa. gov/lead. When using DRYLOK® Etch®, wear eye protection, chemical-resistant gloves, protective footwear, and suitable clothing.
What happens if you put DRYLOK over paint?
DRYLOK® Masonry Waterproofer is a waterproof coating that is easier to apply due to its smooth, creamy consistency and one-step application process. It is suitable for dry or slightly damp surfaces and can be applied by rubbing your fingertips over the affected area. However, it cannot be used over oil or latex-based paint on the inside of a building. DRYLOK® is warranted for 10 years when applied according to directions, but can provide additional years of satisfactory performance if it cannot penetrate the pores of the masonry itself. It is not suitable for use over oil or latex-based paint on the inside of a building.
When not to use DRYLOK?
DRYLOK® Masonry Waterproofer is not recommended for use on bare masonry and concrete surfaces, but can be applied to porous terra cotta, concrete, stucco, and cement. It is not recommended to apply DRYLOK® Masonry Waterproofer over chronic wet walls, as it will not properly cure. Instead, DRYLOK® Wet Wall Primer should be applied to these areas.
Reddish, pinkish, and brownish spots on coated masonry walls are mineral staining, which are natural elements carried through the coating by water vapor. These stains can be treated by cleaning and top-coating with DRYLOK® Masonry Waterproofer.
DRYLOK® Masonry Waterproofer will maintain its warranty if applied to a bare surface and top-coated with DRYLOK® Masonry Waterproofer. If spot primed with DRYLOK® Wet Wall Primer over a surface already coated with DRYLOK® Masonry Waterproofer, the warranty remains valid. However, the warranty is not valid if the primer is applied over a coating other than DRYLOK® Masonry Waterproofer.
What are the disadvantages of DRYLOK?
Brian Jeffries, a seasoned BPA Advisor, shares his knowledge on construction projects and materials, focusing on architecture and building envelopes. When looking for waterproofing solutions, there are many options available, including Drylok, XYPEX, and Damtite. However, it’s important to note that these brands and materials are not created equally, and some can perform better than others. Drylok is a waterproofing product that can be used on frozen surfaces and in temperatures under 48 F.
It sets quickly, needs to be used within 10 minutes, and is the most expensive option. It’s crucial to choose the best option for your project, as it can be challenging to determine which product is best for your needs.
How do you waterproof exterior concrete walls?
Concrete blocks are commonly used for foundations and outbuildings due to their uniform size, ease of stacking, and hardness. However, they are more permeable to water and water vapor than poured concrete, making them particularly vulnerable. To protect them from water intrusion, it is essential to use the best block wall waterproofing products. Concrete blocks and cinder blocks are particularly vulnerable due to their larger pores, making them semi-permeable.
The permeability of concrete is 3. 2 perms per inch of thickness, while an 8- to 10-inch-thick poured concrete wall is about 0. 4 to 0. 3 perms. Once moisture intrudes into a block, it makes the pores even larger, reinforcing the cycle of damage to the structure. To waterproof concrete blocks, apply a coating directly on the bare wall, use a breathable/permeable barrier, use a weather-resistant elastomeric layer, repair cracks and fill voids first, and install an air and moisture barrier.
Can drylock be used outdoors?
DRYLOK® Masonry Waterproofer is a versatile product that can be applied to a variety of surfaces, including interior, exterior, and above or below grade concrete or masonry walls. In order to ascertain whether a surface is too damp to accept paint, it is recommended that the area in question be gently rubbed with the fingertips. The product’s efficacy persists for a period of up to two years.
📹 FOUNDATION REPAIR (Part 18) Mike Haduck Drylock Paint
I Paint inside and outside of basement foundation with Drylock UGL paint. All my videos are my ways and ideas, I always suggest …
Use to buy it in a powder form that you mixed with water like cement. Not sure if it’s still available but the single coat I put on my parents bare block underground basement (when I was 14) not only stopped it’s constant flooding, but is still doing so 43 years later here in NC. I know this for a fact because I now own and live in that same house that I grew up in.
Hi Mike, big fan of the articles they are extremely informative. My question is however, what is the difference between using Hydraulic Cement branded products versus say using a Rapidset mortar type S with some extra Portland cement added? What makes the Hydraulic cement different from Portland? My understanding is that Portland cement is a hydraulic cement. Are these companies trying to charge a premium for simple Portland cement in a branded plastic container?
Hi Mike, my high school AP art history class has been perusal your travel articles all year, they’ve been very helpful with understanding many archeological sites! You should come down to Williamsburg, VA and we’ll give you a tour of all the colonial/ early American original buildings and you can tell us about their masonry! Thanks for all the great content, Eli
Pro Tip: Instead of scrubbing mold with water which mold spores LOVE, wash it with straight vinegar. Vinegar literally eats mold. I spray Vinegar on everything that has mold on it.. I hit it twice with a spray. Once kills it. Second time is for good measure. After the vinegar dries I hit it with a bleach spray to get rid of any mold stains. Ive tried all mold sprays sold in stores, vinegar comes out on top, and bleach in a close second place. Some people go straight to a Bleach and Water solution to wash mold away, but I’ve found for some reason the vinegar works much quicker and doesnt smell as strong. Also NEVER mix Vinegar and Bleach together. It’ll create very toxic fumes which is why I make sure the Vinegar is dry before I spray the Bleach solution. Bleach solution isnt necessary but It helps neutralize the odor and remove stains. Its overkill to do both but eh I like to make sure everything is dead and clean. Using just water to wash mold will not get rid of the mold. itll come back. Mold embeds itself to whatever it attaches to.. it grows through the material. Paint will only encapsulate the “washed” area that isnt really free of mold spores. The paint will seal it in the spores and may kill them or just prolong their growth.
I’ve had a problem with paint on an interior basement painted block wall holding moisture which then caused the interior block face to disintegrate, but only at the bottom. I removed the paint on the entire wall and repaired the damage. The basement had no history of water leaks. The moisture appeared to be vapor transfer through the block wall that the paint had blocked and held against the cement block for long periods of time. 4ft of the 8ft wall is covered by outside dirt. Is there breathable cement block paint? Do interior basement block walls need to be painted or can they be left unpainted?
Hi, mike, My basements walls on the inside have parchment that is falling off in large pieces where it was just cracked and the floor is cracked, and when I walk on it after it rained water oozes up from the cracks. Yesterday after heavy rain it had a dime-size hole in the wall that water was flowing from into the floor What do I do to fix this?
I am a complete newbie. It is interesting how you used dry lok’s fast plug to patch the outside of the wall where paint had peeled. The user manual of dry lok says to use fast plug for ‘cracks and holes’ but you seemed to use it to simply strengthen the surface a bit? Am I mistaken? I have a cinder block wall that took some water damage when gutters were not installed and negletcted so the paint peeled in a few places and the concrete definited eroded in a few places. I am trying to decide if I should strengthen it with something (and with what?) or just put dry lok on it as it is? (since gutters are installed now and water damage will not be as bad in the future) I considered using fast plug but I could not get myself to use the product for something that its producer says it is not for? thanks for the articles from this newbie.
Another good article Mike. I just used this product on my concrete patio slab. Concrete was spalling from frost. I power washed it and skim coated with 50/50 Portland and sand. After it dried for a week I sealed it with weldbond and water-5/1. 2 coats. Looked Patchy so I used 2 coats of Dryloc concrete floor paint. Looks great now. My wife likes it too😊
I have a house that is 125 years old. The basement is stone. A previous owner painted the basement with drylok. The problem is where ever there is efflorescence the drylok would bubble up and eventually fall off. I scraped all the loose drylock off and every year there is slightly more to remove. I’ve cleaned off the efflorescence off with a sponge and water and never year it is back. Not sure what to do except continue removing loose drylok.
it’s a good and a great product. Thanks Mike. The last basement I worked on had a drain spout going into the ground into an old 1950’s clay pipe and the new landscaper drove some equipment over the pipes and they cracked enough that the water found it’s own website down the length of the block foundation in a basement. had to dig it all up and used this product on the inside and other places after properly replacing the pipes. Elastomeric paint is great
Great article. Quick question, I recently built a block garage in Toronto, noticed when it snowed, the snow that stuck to one wall, made that wall on the inside look wet. It’s a cinderblock finish inside and out. Is this normal? No leak from roof or flashing, just simply the wet snow sticking to the exterior of the wall. All joints tucked.
I love your articles & I laugh whenever you make the Dentist analogy. It’s really a great analogy & I could go on to make all the comparisons how teeth are much like concrete because they kind of are; but as Dental Assistant I have to say, we will take that tooth out if you dont have the bone structure to support it.😊
I don’t care how much heat I get if I get any and I don’t care what anyone says, this is a horrible job. If you want to put out quality work and not get any callbacks and you want your customers to refer you to their friends and family then you need to do a little better than this. If you are outdoor or in an empty concrete basement with a drain I would pressure wash it absolutely. That’s not always an option and when it’s not you need to scrape over every square inch of the wall you’re having an issue with and make sure you get every bit of loose and peeling paint crumbling concrete anything loose. Then it should be hit with some type of wire brush. Then I go over it with a standard broom or something with bristles on it. Send wipe it down with a wet rags. Then when it’s completely dry I never brush it on, I roll it on with heavy paint on the roller and pressing it in to each Travis crack hit give it any imperfection in the wall you wanna press this stuff in and fill in any imperfections are voids. Then when it’s completely dry second coat it. It might take a little longer so you make sure you charge enough and this method ensures you’ll have no issues.OK just the way I do shit but I’m an idiot
both inside & out came out looking nice. Why the gallon of outside drylock hydrolic cement? vs making your own? For the drylock paint is it white paint with white portland? For the outside ground line you dig a bit out -logical but I’m always looking the best way to handle painting to/at/below the ground line without picking up dirt as I go? Normally I try holding the bottom line to the end when job/brush are nearly done – then hit the bottom line iwith some cardboard at the bottom as the edge – yet still dirt gets picked up?
My basement has the same issue, which is how i stumbled onto your article Mike. You are a magician. Learned so much about painting, and about life. No big deal! 🙂 By the way, originally thought you might be in Massachusetts from your accent. But maybe the two states are very similar. Anyway, great article – thank you!
Mike my question does not relate to this article but I’m here and it was a good article. So my question is what do you recommend on the surface of a small concrete porch that is exposed to the weather. Mine is pitting. I tried a sealer before winter and it’s all starting to peel already and it was supposedly a good product. I was almost thinking of this product that you used in this article. First the patch to fill in the pits and then the actual painting. What are your thoughts for my problem. Thank you you’re the best
Good day- Liked this the article. Bought my house in ’16. 2nd owner, built in ’59. Block wall foundation excellent condition, walkout out basement. Had some mold in certain corners which I killed. Then I didn’t hesitate Drilocked all the walls and floor. I knew that that was going to happen the first time that saw the bare walls and floor, Haven’t had a problem since. But we took the washer and dryer out of the basement. You could tell that the basement had ventilations problems. Now for the problem- The driveway is toast. amongst other things it had a 3/4 ” crack, T shaped. blew right past a control joint. All the way thru the slab. I tried your strategy of 1 part Portland to 4 parts sand. Probably mixed it a little to dry. I didn’t want it milkshake. Thought it was trawlable. When I went to feather with the sponge It left a coarse finish of the mix over the crack itself. For the record, I live in central IN. Is that natural?