SharkBite is a versatile plumbing solution that can be used for indoor and outdoor installations. Its push-to-connect fittings can be exposed outside, but they must be wrapped with an impermeable material if they are going in the ground. Transition fittings help switch over to different pipe types more quickly than traditional pipe transition methods, such as threaded adapters. Contractors who use SharkBite find it a dependable and safe solution in concealed spaces, including behind the wall and underground.
However, improper installation can create unstable connections, resulting in damage to the customer’s home. SharkBite fittings are IAPMO tested and approved for behind-the-wall and underground applications. They tend to be bigger and bulkier than other methods, so they may not fit within the space allowed. Designed to simplify the installation process and reduce labor time, SharkBite fittings offer a compelling alternative to traditional pipe fittings.
To use SharkBite for outdoor fixtures, follow the instructions and clean the copper pipe thoroughly to avoid rough edges or bits of solder left. Some SharkBite universal fittings (recommended for flow meter installations) can be used outside without issues of UV exposure. PEX is good for inside work, but sharkbites should not be sealed in a wall or ceiling.
SharkBite fittings are designed for indoor use and should not be exposed to direct sunlight or harsh outdoor conditions. They are considered permanent and should last a long time, but they are only approved for water lines and are not suitable for outdoor plumbing.
In conclusion, SharkBite is a versatile and safe solution for indoor and outdoor plumbing systems. However, proper installation and proper cleaning are crucial to ensure a long-lasting and reliable connection.
📹 6 SHARKBITE Mistakes NOT To Make! | GOT2LEARN
Sharkbite fittings are awesome, but they must have the proper installation procedures like any other joining method, here are 6 …
Can you install PEX pipe outside?
Pre-insulated PEX pipe is a specialized plumbing system designed for outdoor underground use. It consists of three main components: the PEX pipe itself, an insulation layer, and an outer protective jacket. The PEX pipe core is known for its flexibility, resistance to corrosion, and ability to handle temperature variations. The insulation layer minimizes heat loss and protects the pipe from damage caused by soil movement and external pressure. The outer protective jacket shields the pipe and insulation from moisture, UV radiation, and physical damage, preserving the integrity and longevity of the piping system.
PEX pipes are efficient in maintaining the temperature of the fluids they transport, ensuring that hot water for heating systems or chilled water for cooling systems reaches its destination at the desired temperature. The combination of PEX’s inherent durability and the protective outer jacket makes them highly resistant to environmental factors such as moisture, chemicals, and physical stress.
Installing pre-insulated PEX pipes is often simpler and more cost-effective than other piping systems due to their flexibility and lightweight nature. These pipes can be used for a wide range of applications, including hydronic heating systems, snow melting systems, and potable water distribution, making them a versatile choice for outdoor underground projects.
Where should you not use SharkBite fittings?
It should be noted that SharkBite fittings are only certified for potable water and radiant heating installations.
Why do plumbers say not to use SharkBite?
Sharkbite fittings are a popular choice among plumbers due to their quick and convenient nature, but they may not be built to last. They can wear and tear over time, leading to leaks that can ruin your home. Despite being cheaper initially, they can end up costing more in the long run. Investing in quality materials and workmanship is more cost-effective than quick fixes, which can lead to recurring issues.
Additionally, sharkbite fittings may not provide the same level of safety as traditional methods, especially in crucial applications like gas lines or high-pressure systems. Therefore, plumbers are hesitant to trust these fittings to hold up under pressure, as they may lead to a plumbing mishap that could turn your home into a water park.
Can SharkBite fittings be exposed to sunlight?
The SharkBite Universal brass fittings are resistant to ultraviolet radiation, exhibiting minimal degradation for up to one month when installed on copper or CPVC. Conversely, the SharkBite PEX Pipe and EvoPEX fittings are suitable for use in sunlight.
How do I protect my PEX outside?
PEX pipe insulation options include foam pipe insulation, reflective foil insulation, tubular insulation, and radiant barrier insulation. Foam insulation sleeves are cost-effective and available in various sizes for easy installation. Reflective foil insulation is ideal for areas with extreme temperature variations, as it helps reflect heat back into hot water pipes and prevents heat gain in cold water lines.
Tubular insulation consists of pre-formed foam tubes that provide insulation and protection against freezing. Radiant barrier insulation uses polyethylene, a durable closed-cell material with strong impact damping and chemical resistance, to protect PEX from cold weather while minimizing heat loss.
An independent team conducted a temperature loss test, finding that PEX using wrap-style-radiant insulation only lost 0. 87 degree F per 100 ft under a load of 63 500 BTU and 5 GPM. This indicates that PEX insulation is a cost-effective and effective solution for insulating PEX pipes.
How long will PEX last outdoors?
PEX piping, a flexible plastic tubing, has a limited lifespan of 50 years compared to copper pipes, which can last up to 100 years. However, it is a cost-effective option for plumbing repairs. PEX was introduced in the U. S. in the 1970s and gained popularity in the 1990s. It is a popular choice for many plumbing systems, but its longevity and quality should be considered when choosing the best piping for your business or home.
Can SharkBite fittings withstand heat?
SharkBite (1st Generation) fittings are certified to 200 psi and 200°F (93°C) and are the core products of the SharkBite System. They provide a reliable way to join PEX, copper, CPVC, HDPE, or PE-RT pipe without solder, clamps, unions, or glue. The stainless steel teeth in the fittings grip tight, while the specially formulated o-ring compresses to create a secure seal. Pipe insertion depths for SharkBite fittings vary depending on the size. They are certified for use within a concealed wall, but consulting local plumbing codes and pressure testing the system before sealing up the wall are recommended.
What is the life expectancy of a SharkBite fitting?
SharkBite fittings and PEX pipe come with a 25-year warranty against manufacturer defects, provided they are installed correctly and complied with local codes. These push-to-connect fittings are the core products of the SharkBite System, offering a reliable way to join PEX, copper, CPVC, HDPE, or PE-RT pipes without solder, clamps, unions, or glue. The stainless steel teeth in the fittings grip tight, while the specially formulated o-ring compresses to create a secure seal.
Pipe insertion depths for SharkBite fittings vary depending on the size. They are certified for use within concealed walls, but consulting local plumbing codes and pressure testing the system before sealing up the wall are recommended.
Are SharkBite fittings good for outdoor use?
SharkBite is a versatile plumbing solution that can be used for both indoor and outdoor fixtures. It offers push-to-connect fittings that can be exposed outside, but must be wrapped with an impermeable material if going in the ground. For outdoor fixtures, SharkBite faucet installation kits are available, saving time on collecting separate parts. The kits come with a push-to-connect angle or straight stop in a polished chrome finish, providing a professional and attractive appearance. Master plumbers use SharkBite fittings for outdoor plumbing systems.
Is SharkBite good for outdoor use?
Sharkbites are suitable for underground and behind walls, but they pose risks due to their out-of-site location and rubber O-ring, which is not suitable for permanent connections. They are not recommended for outdoor use due to sunlight drying out the O-ring. John Guest Quick-Connect fittings are better for plastic tubing due to their flexibility and compatibility with smaller diameter tubing, often used for filter installations.
These black, UV-resistant fittings can be used outside. Leaks usually occur due to improper installation, not failure of the fitting. Both quick-connect and SharkBite fittings perform their functions effectively.
Do professional plumbers use SharkBite fittings?
SharkBite fittings are often considered an emergency fix for plumbing systems, but a growing number of DIYers argue they are as durable as soldering. While most plumbers believe they aren’t strong enough to create long-lasting connections, many homeowners still rely on soldering for long-term plumbing projects. This makes finding a firm that uses push-to-fit fittings difficult, as they may not be as strong as soldering.
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I repiped from galvanized to PEX using sharkbites, I wish that war was only a weekend, lol. Good points, and things I did not encounter since I was not using copper in any way. From my own experience, I would add a couple of things. First, don’t expect PEX to hold itself as well as metal pipe. You are going to have to strap and support it through long runs and when you might have counted on a rigid pipe to provide some passive stability on fixtures, you will be disappointed. Since we’re on the topic of strapping, don’t use wire to tie PEX along floor joists and such. Over time, it will cut through the PEX slowly. Next, don’t let the PEX touch the soil or become exposed to even partial light, the pipe will decay quickly. Finally, if you are repiping be aware that the builder might have used your metal piping as a ground for your wiring. You may need to carry a ground wire to where your metal piping still exists and connects underground, for me, it was the supply line from the utilities district. You would be safer buying and driving down a ground stake and connect grounds to that to protect your house from electrical fire…All that being said, I loved the advantages of PEX and the price and durability was comparable to favorable over metal piping. It has been ten years now, and no troubles.
I prefer to sweat joints for both cost and peace of mind but have used sharkbites on many occasions mainly for transitioning from copper to PEX. You’ll want to strap the pipes well to eliminate movement of the joint which could cause deflection and distort the o-ring. You can install them on soft copper you just have to hit the end with rounders first and make sure it is straight with no dings or scratches. I always remove the inserts from the fitting first. If using PEX I put the insert in the end of the pipe then push home. Not needed or recommended to use them with copper. When soft copper is cut with tubing cutters there is usually no need for champfering since the cutter leaves a nice bevel but if using on ridgid type M or L i highly recommend not skipping that step because it usually doesnt bevel in nicely like the soft k does. It all comes down to proper application and proper installation. All water mains buried in the ground in the last 50 years rely on rubber gaskets to seal each bell joint. Same principle just smaller scale.
I do not know why people hate shark bite. Im a licensed plumber and use them often. Shark bite and pro press. I do not solder. I never had no call back on these fittings. I even shark bite my own water heater and angle stops and home. Never had a problem. The key with shark bite. Make sure the fitting is home!! If not it will leak or blow off. Far as that i use them often behind walls i never had a call back. Most old school plumbers hate shark bite, pro press, any compression fitting. 😂😂😂
Biggest mistake is saying reliable and using them as a permanent fix. Should only be used if you do not know how to do a real repair job such as sweating or bruising.It should only be used if you have a plumbing problem that you can fix with this as a temporary fix especially on a holiday when you don’t wanna have to pay extra to have plumbing repair. But when it is feasible have a plumber do it the right way
Ok so most of us use common sense. That being said, this is great how to because nobody has any. De- burring every thing is key. Cleaning as well. Waiting toll the pipe is cool also. And love the fact he pointed out how petroleum is not what to use. You will end up with more cracks than a room full of plumbers!
I see a lot of old-school plumbers are on this page, guys who love to rant about Sharkbite fittings. Fact: Sharkbite fittings have their place. They are reliable, durable and cost effective when labor is factored in. They can withstand temperature extremes, and can be released during renovations or repairs. I see the same resistance to new ideas from old-school carpenters. Just don’t hire an old-school guy! Hire someone who is up to speed instead. I’ve been plumbing for the last forty-five or so years. I have never hesitated to keep my mind open to new ideas, and when Sharkbites came along I gave them a try. Installed properly, they are dependable. Sure, installed by a sloppy guy who doesn’t care, they’ll leak.
Copper and pex. Lol love how copper guys forget about cpvc. Worst pipe ever made. But homeowners and jack legs alike use it. Then after 15 years of service. They wanna patch it. If you haven’t found out cpvc sucks. You have never worked with it. The glue can and always does cure with a skin covering end of pipe. Then you end up with low flow to faucet(s). Sharkbite is far better quality in this case. So may as we’ll learn how to properly use them. They literally sell millions every month. If yours blows. Then chances are it’s your fault. Just admit it and try again.
I know one thing, having a shark bite valve handy when a line breaks and there isn’t a valve accessible is awesome. You will get wet but just push the valve on with it open and close once installed. The only downside is the o-ring could possibly come out but only has one time before. I hope this helps anyone!
Thanks again I just learned that there is soft and hard copper. unfortunately, I believe I have soft copper and galvanized pipes ok. so like yeah I’m learning and figuring out what can and cannot be done and eventually after 9000 hours of research I will have a plan. Its funny how I keep finding more and more articles from your website that is very relevant. thanks.
has the code solidified the use of Shark Bite behind closed walls yet? Canada and USA ?. We have been not using them behind closed walls, and if we did, we ensured there was an utility entrance near by to get to them.( arms reach ) .. unless that’s just the practice of the guys I work with. Our COE prefers them when inspecting as well. I, also for insurance reasons, needed a Master plumber to sign off on work and the first thing he wanted to ensure was NO Shark Bite type behind closed walls. I am starting to think that is just an older plumbers preference..
What materials/tools would you recommend to clean old copper pipe to best attach a new sharkbite? In another article you said to never clean the copper, yet on this one you said to always clean the copper!? So which is it? And how best to clean it? And, will it work if it’s got some leftover solder (from the older copper connection), or does the old solder also need to be cleaned removed from the copper before using a sharkbite? Thanks! Btw, Love your articles, great content overall!
I never install a Shark bite fitting without plumbing grease, you will inadvertently damage the o-ring shorting it’s life, once it is debured properly, remember that a file can leave marks that can cut the o-ring, that’s where the Plumbing grease comes in, clean the outside of the pipe in a circular pattern so the scratches go around the pipe as shown in the article, not length wise as this can provide a path for water to escape, grease the pipe to protect the O-ring and insert to the proper depth with the pipe in line as shown in the article and I’ve never had a leak when I do these steps, Great article!
Important. When using sharkbite on copper it is okay to remove the plastic insert. The plastic insert is only there to support soft tubing. It is not needed for copper. Not removing the insert will restrict the flow. If you can live with less flow it’s okay to leave the insert, but if you want maximum flow through the pipe remove the plastic insert with a pair of needle nose pliers as per instructions
About 10 years ago, I had a properly installed sharkbite cap fail once. It literally flew off and hit the ceiling. Fortunately, it happened while I was on the job, and the resulting flood was no big deal. It could have been a disaster. I never used these fittings again. I sleep better when my pipes are soldered.
I frankly am very reticent to like shark it’s fittings as a mainline installation system. I could see use for them directly behind an access panel in an area that requires a high degree of maintenance, but hidden randomly behind walls seems like very risky option compared to other solutions. Also frankly I’ve seen too many plumbers screw them up in the field.
All you have to do is buy a professional grade crimper and learn how to use it (which won’t take long), and use crimp fittings and rings and you can forget about SharkBite fittings (which cost ten times as much as the crimp fittings and rings). I learned that nearly twenty years ago from a professional plumber who has the reputation for being the best plumber in North Alabama. His solder joints look like they were done by some kind of machine.
Great articles buddy! I never done any plumbing work until recently because had switch a tank water heater to a tankless. Not an easy task for a person whos never done it before, but I have to say I was able to accomplish the hot and cold lines in copper to the machine + more. All soldered fittings! No shark bites, but I did use the cap when I wanted to test a line or stop for the day. All thanks to you! Thank you! Edit: When doing the tankless heater, I also had to deal with black pipe for the gas. Any chance, can you look into making articles about gas plumbing?
I finally tried some SharkBite fittings after years of refusing. I could never get an answer to the “how does it work”, “how long will it last”, and “how do I remove it” questions, so I just stayed with sweat joints. After trying SharkBite, I’m sticking with solder. SharkBite fittings are great for commercial applications where no one cares about anything other than getting the job done quickly, but for residential work, they’re not good enough, in my limited experience. When they leak, you’re stuck cutting them off. Why do they leak? Who knows. You cut, de-burr, measure, and insert fully and sometimes they are watertight, sometimes not. I trust copper and solder. It works perfectly every time and lasts forever.
Would these be a reasonable choice for my hot water heater? For context my hot water heater died today and its from 1995. My hot/cold inlets are 1/2in copper pipe and not sure if its soft or not but I don’t have the money for a technician to do a professional install. So I was thinking i could add a 1/2 to 3/4in sharkbite because the flex pipe that came with my hot water heater are 3/4in brass fittings. Is this a viable option in your opinion?
I’ve migrated solely to Sharkbites to minimize soldering and convenience. I’ve marked how deep they should go from the early start. I’ve deburred copper but now I want to get the tool. I spend too much time deburring with a file, and it’s not always right. I have silicone oil for other rubber applications, but now I’m going to use it on the o-ring here. I’ve had problems removing Sharkbites on copper, but I’m getting a better grasp on it. The tool doesn’t allow me to fully push the seal in, so I use a crescent wrench to push in the seal. I’m probably using the orange remover tool incorrectly.
There’s really only two applications that I will use these fittings for. The first is temporary caps. I keep a few around, and yes you need to know when to throw them out once they’ve been used too much. They are great for short term caps for supply lines during a remodel. Second, and I only use these situationally, are shut off valves. I still favor saudering, but sometimes I will throw one of these on instead. You couldn’t pay me to use one of these sharkbite fittings for in wall work. And really, anything that isn’t a cap or shut off, I would just prefer to sauder.
Wow. Thanks for these articles! All for your articles you guys got me to cut the 4 old multi turn shut off valves and replace them with 4 new SharkBite valves. What a Breeze in installing them. Was hesitant at first, but after perusal your articles I tackled that job! Is it true or it’s a myth by using fine grit sandpaper it can ruin the copper pipping? I forgot to buy the depth guide, so I measured with a tape measure and the online website guide. Let’s hope it works! Thanks a ton for all your Amazing articles! Big fan! Just came across your website and been loving it ever since. You guys are clear and to the point.
I have used a lot of these fittings & they work really good,but the pipe must be clean & cut square,that is at a 90’degree angle.& if it is used in a drinking water application, never use Vaseline or other petroleum based lubricants, use vegetable base greases,there is one specifically made for drinking water & fire hydrant applications, but if you can’t find any use the vegetable oil to lubricate the O ring.
because ur website, is top notch, i will offer a deal – i am a premium member, but i have never donated or paid to a website – But, i wil subscribe / donate – to ur website, or a website of ur choosing, IF you create, and publish, a article on residential pro-Pex / Upnor /Expansion manifold, including talking about individual home runs to each end . ( every cold, every single hot, gets their own dedicated run – the Pros and Cons – FYI – either way, honestly, i wills till subscribe, because your articles are awesome and very informative. … truth
After seeing the water company come to our job to turn off the water after thieves broke in and stole the copper with out turning the water off our basement was steadily flooding. Water company was taking forever when my boy said get out of the way and proceeded to walk down in at least 2 ft of water with a 3qtr shark bite cap. problem solved and this was in January every water department guy was in shock. Since then it’s sharks for me
Just solder a new piece of copper pipe in and your done. Most licensed master plumbers will just solder a new piece of pipe amd it will be there for another 60 years. I am self-employed licensed master plumber in 3 different states, yes I’m old school and always solder, but I do use sharkbite fittings and carry over $4,000 worth of them on my van because I do mobile home repairs as well as residential so I only use sharkbite bites on mobile homes. I know alot of general contractors and handymen and home owners like sharkbites because they don’t know how to properly solder pipe and make it look like it was done at a factory with no solder running down pipe ect. So I can see why they use them but always get calls on these sharkbite fittings because the contractor ( not. Real licensed plumber ) will use these sharkbite fittings and just do it all wrong, they don’t use a copper cutter to cut copper pipe cleanly, they don’t clean the copper pipe or debur it, they have a fitting that’s been rolling around on there dirty work van for months so they use it, instead of pitching it or keeping there van organized so the sharkbite fitting has tons of dirt in it, and they are too lazy to clean it out or just don’t care, and then they don’t push it in far enough. But there stupidity keeps me in business.
I am hesitant to use these devices in general because there are too many parts. A nicely soldered pipe is one piece end to end. These shark teeth things have multiple parts adding failure points and the plastics will fail down the road. Imagine one inside a wall. I could see them for an unfinished basement like mine is where you can see everything but when I see a house full of these I cringe. Time will tell about their long term reliability but I think of them like todays’ cars – too much tech, too many needless parts, something will break, bricking your car and stranding you in the worst place possible.
Hey better idea hire a plumber so one of these doesn’t blow off and completely flood a home. I am a licensed service plumber and these shark bites give us alot and I mean alot of business. We’ve probably fixed 300 sections of pipe this year that was” fixed ” with shark bites. They are not to be used for anything except a temporary fix not lasting more than a week.
I have used shark bite for over 10 years on at least 1500+ Rough-ins. The only issues we have ever had is when it’s installed in correctly. The pipe, has marker guides already on it….. and you used the wrong fittings for copper. If you gonna post a how to, make sure you know how to actually install it.
SharkBite connectors fail from day 1 …. I did pex A expansion and I made a mistake with a fitting, I had to cut the ring with a hot blade, I still couldn’t pull of the hose without the ring on it, its super tight, I didn’t want to damage the plastic connector by cutting the hose so I just threw that piece away… the SharkBite’s is easy to just pop in and swap, but you don’t want those connections in the wall, they eventually leak, plus they cost almost double the price of the expansion or compression, I did my own manifold with pex A expansion rings, water heater, main, everything except the valves at the stub out for the water line to connect to sink because I did not have the expansion machine, so I said screw it and got the easy push connects from sharkbite, I only have 12 water lines total, I added a whole house filter, washer machine water box, about 5 shut off valves around the manifold and a water filter bypass, did the water pressure test, all of those compression connections and valves were fine and super tight, out of the 12 valves I had issues with one SharkBite drop ear and the SharkBite water valve leaking, theyre pushed all the way in, cleaned each pipe before connection, so before we put the drywall up I am going to home depot to swap all of those SharkBite’s out because I am not trying to have water damage after all this work was done. SharkBite’s are easy to use, cost more money but no tool to buy, thats the only reason I got these, but I have these push connects for airline(other brand of course) but these airlines always end up leaking and they need to be replaced, so I didnt really want to use sharkbite but was being lazy, I had a 2nd plumber come out to do the shower drains and even he was asking me why did I not use the same expansion rings for everything?
Another knows the cost of replacing electric 50 gallons water heater to a tankless water heater? I know Sharkbite will work. 1. You have no more space on your circuit breaker box. You needs three 40Amp breakers/12 meters 6G wires/tubing/shut valves 2. Using ATG’s (pex/fitting/shutoff) to cooper tubing. Running new lines to fit back onto cooper tubing 3. Do you need to add external filter to reduce hard water. Ran hard water on water heater for 17 years without problem & no PMs. 4. Do you save on electrical bills & get faster hot water using tankless vs 50 gallons tank 5. Cost of DIY vs hiring an electrician. I can surely do the plumping, but don’t see anyone showing how add 3 40amp breakers) Above asked because I don’t want to pay $800 for a tankless, then buy parts & tools for over $400.00. Or $1,500 for electrician. Vs buying a 50 gallon water heater, cutting pipes and torch weld back in. Don’t want to buy a tankless if you have to clean every 3 months. When many people don’t drain their water heater & last over 6 yrs
just installed one of these due to chopping off length of leaky copper. I had to take one of the shark bite coupling off each end one time due miss measurement, I didnt have the tool so I used a wrench. There is some minor gouges in the visible part of the gasket from the wrench. When I finished and turned water back on there were no leaks. but there is the tiniest bit of seeping coming through. Not enough to form droplet, only noticeable if I put a piece of paper up against it and watch it absorb. I might just end up replacing with a new shark bite but I’m wondering if it wasn’t cleaned and debarred enough or if its that tiny bit of damage on the outer gasket? just wondering if anyone else has had this kind of tiny tiny leak?
Retired Engineer, I began using push fittings in early 80’s plumbing large machinery, and plastic injection molds. The main reason we used them on injection molds was the ability to reuse them. Not reuse the entire fitting, but replace flexible plastic tubing quickly. Doing injection mold changes and plumbing repairs always came down to speed, the faster the mold could be put in, and pulled out of the machinery used to run them, the better. Saving time saves money lost through downtime. Many times several dozen lengths of tubing had to be removed for a mold to clear obstacles, so if only the tubing had to be slipped out, then back in after setting, and before pulling the mold, and the fittings didn’t need threaded out, then back in, it saved enormous amounts of time using push fittings. Just swap out tubing, leave the fittings alone. These fittings were usually good for 12 to 15 times before becoming undependable, so I wouldn’t worry about reusing them 4 or 5 times for one of my personal projects. I have used them about everywhere possible in industry over the past 40 years with very few problems. The biggest issue was burrs on tubing ends, and tubing not being completely inserted into the push lock. Follow the simple installation rules, and save time, which usually equals money. I will say, this Shark bite brand has really put itself out there marketing wise as I have been seeing a lot about it, seems more so than other brands over the years.
I have never had a leaky Sharkbite fitting from the Sharkbite side (had a threaded side crack once after a few months of use). Have used hundreds of them. Aside from the depth markings, which I have never done since the click when fully inserted, I would think that all these things are common sense. It may just be me though since the plumbing my dad taught me was to sweat the pipes. I switched over to Sharkbites when I found them around 20-25 years ago and switched to using just them after talking to a friend of mine in aerospace saying that the technology has been around since the 60s and was used by NASA. Replumbed whole houses with Sharkbites and PEX. I have just started using the Sharkbite MAX fittings on newer projects and like them even more since you don’t have to have the white plastic pipe support any longer, which means even better water flow. I know they have their haters, but from my experience it is only misuse that causes them to fail… just like most things.
I wonder if the sharkbite fitting will last long term. When I put together a copper fitting, I know it is there, probably for 40 yrs + That O ring is a big concern for me. Do all sharkbite fittings have that O ring I wonder? I did not realize they had the O ring. I have used sharkbites, over past few yrs with not one failure, but a little concerned now!
In another article you mention not sanding copper but then do it as part of the cleaning here… What’s correct? ALso, with respect to reaming and deburring, does this need to be done on PVC and PEX pipes as well (I think you did deburr a PVC in another article), or just copper? In this article you say just copper, but, I have seen other people at least deburr/ream PVC. So, how about PVC and how about the Sharkbite PEX?
I also don’t understand the aversion to using shark bites, other than the price. I used several today on a replumb job in a water heater closet. The ones in there I had put in 15 years ago and never leaked. Pex is also far superior to copper if you are in a freezing climate. I don’t think I would ever “bury” a shark bite in a wall, but IMO fine if used in a place where you have access.
You didn’t mention using sand cloth to debur. I just put one on today, a shut off for the kitchen hot water. Cut the pipe with a Milwaukee 1/2″ pipe cutter for small spaces. Nice clean cut. Clean it with the sand cloth and a rag. Bites right on. I want to know what happened to the ones that click when they’re installed properly. No room for error.
Yeah shark bites rely on a rubber gasket that will never last as long as solder, compression, or thread tape or sealant on a mechanical connection. Shark bites are only handy for TEMPORARY USE! As a licensed plumber, I run into service jobs that someone previously used “push on” or “quick connect” fittings. There is something to note here: there are 2 types of quick connect fittings, ones that leak and ones that will leak in the near future.
Read a lot about Sharkbites on Youtube, its pros and cons and decided to replace Accor Lite push -pull valves that started to leak ( internally) after 7 years of use . Followed all the cleaning /square cut as well as checking the insert depth and the 2 clicks that ensures proper Sharkbite Installation. The depth is more key as you may not totally notice the 2 clicks if you push hard /fast enough enough so Depth is more critical than the 2 clicks as basis for proper insert. It’s been 2 years so far with no leaks on about a 18 units replacements. I also purposely opened and closed 1 unit 50 times after a year of use and there was no leak unlike the Accor Lite valve I used to have that started to leak even with less than 10 open/closes. The 25 year guarantee on Sharkbite as well as some inputs from plumbing friends who attest they did not have any issue if properly installed made me try this out.
I don’t do any of this, thank god . I feel good about my plumbing having done dozens of shower valves, toilets, showers and valves kitchens and faucets, sump pumps, watch dogs,etc. . Drains are always a pain in the ass imo . Especially when people in apartments put their tampons in the toilet and it holds open the back flow preventer 😂. Seen it 3 times in 20 years .
How to use a shark bite properly. Step 1: take shark bite pieces out of store bag. Step 2: throw shark bite in trash can. Step 3: buy actual pipe materials that are not garbage. Step 4: fix problem and enjoy the rest of the day. Step 5: know that you have actually done a decent job because you are a DIY person with more than 2 brain cells and snap together plumbing is a horrible idea.
I’ve placed a shark bite on the same section of outdoor sprinkler system pipe 3 times, and every single one has failed the exact same way every single time. The first one was installed by a professional and the pipe was prepped properly, cleaned properly, etc., etc… so please, stop yelling about “deburr the pipe”! The end cap section where the rubber seal and the “teeth” are located simply comes apart after 1 year, as if the plastic “grip ring” simply gives out and lets go! It gets installed at the end of winter and has completely fallen apart by the end of the next winter. Bizarre! I’ll be looking for other solutions from now on…
as a rule I can diy many things in my home. 2 things I will always hire a person for. plumbing and electricity. they both require training and a level of degrees to do correctly. your job or (my job) is doing the research and getting bids on a person I trust. if they do a good job they get my buisness for life. I elude I have future projects I’m interested in. which I do. but if someone does a God job on one I’ll ask them back again if they leave me with problems I’ll shit on that contractor. and thsts disappointing for both me and them
HI – I can’t seem to find in any of the articles on sharkbites how to attach the faucet screw on part to the sharkbite fitting (which Is push in) And the adaptor that came in the faucet kit did not work either since it screws on something and the faucet lines screw on something as well. Do you have any idea what I am talking about?
Push-in fittings has been around for over 50 years, mainly used in filtration system, refrigeration, and Icemakers. I live in major metropolitan area and SharkBites are fully approved, including in concealed locations and below ground (buried). I use SharkBites for almost 20 years, mainly for emergency repairs. So far, no leaks, no call-backs. Great stuff. Thank you
I used to hate them, then I was forced to use them because they were the most efficient copper to cpvc transition approved by code. Since then I’ve installed thousands upon thousands. I regularly see ones I’ve installed 10+ years ago, only problems I’ve seen are 1) improperly installed, 2) stress sideways stress on sharkbite or pipe, and 3) factory defect (4 or 5)
I just went through this with about 6 Sharkbite fittings. This was a manufactured home that was moved from Missouri to Arkansas. The house was done with PEX-b and Sharkbites. Most of the connections were fine when we hooked it up to the new water line. Unfortunately the house had not been winterized in Missouri so all the pipes froze. The PEX was perfectly fine but six out of about 30 Sharkbite fittings were cracked. Sharkbites are fine if using in either warm climates or in a situation where is house is properly winterized. Otherwise, some of the sharkbites will fail if frozen and could cause damage. One of them had a small pinhole crack in the side. It was hooked to a toilet supply line and if we hadn’t caught it, there could have been a lot of damage.
I had a leaky pipe behind the wall of my water heater, and it turns out that the copper fitting from the cold line separated from the pex tubing. My plumber had to use a sharkbite as there was very little room. It looks like a good job, but I was concerned that they weren’t for long term applications. But coming from you two, this is good news. Hopefully he did it right. Thank, guys!
Did some sharkbites recently on a water softener system. Had to return a few pieces because of quality control problems. Ironically, no problems with the actual sharkbite seal portion that everyone seems the most paranoid about. But rather, the metal housing has a seam on it that ended up leaking. Upon closer inspection, it just seems like a quality control problem in the manufacturing process. Maybe a bad batch or something but inexcusable for the prices they charge on these.
Thanks for taking the time to review the Sharkbites. I already knew most of what you said and it’s spot on but it’s great to hear another opinion. Even as a homeowner I always try to solder my joints but there are times where Sharkbites save the day, especially when when working close to old wood and/or insulation in tight situations. Especially when it’s a friend or family members house. I have not seen one leak. Like Mike Zeke mentioned, don’t use these on pipes under stress, the pipes need to join straight at each other.
DO NOT USE if there is no pressure in the pipes all the time. I winterize my summer home and it gets very cold in the winter so all the pipes are drained. Every year there are new leaks in the shark bite fittings, especially on the copper pipes. All it takes is the pipe to shrink a MINISCULE amount (which can happen n very cold weather) and the SharkBite fitting will drop right off.
Love Love LOVE the shark bite !!! Use it all the time . Be sure to use the Shark bite tape for underground situations . It’s a 2-in clear stretchy tape that protects the shark bite from the minerals in the dirt. Also be sure to pull out the floppy plastic insert when using for copper pipe. That floppy plastic insert is used for PEX and PVC installations to strengthen the inner wall of the pipe. Keep them articles coming fellas!!!
Hello this is not a hate comment but have had one problem. It may indeed have been me however let me tell you what happened. About 6 years ago I installed a tankless hot water heater and I used pex and sharkbite fitting. When I installed it no problem no leak noticed however I guess there was. The heater was not quite large enough so we go to change it out and find out the there had been a slow drip which had rotted about 2ft by 2ft of floor . Had the heater not failed we would have had much more rot. My comment would be check and recheck especially if there could be a drip on wood and cause rot. I am going to use a new fitting but periodically I am going to check for any drip- this rot has been a pain to fix
Excellent article. You really explain how to use these fittings PROPERLY. I think the fittings are just as reliable as any others as long as you take the time to do proper prepwork, and don’t get sloppy. In other words, the culprit of leaky push-on fittings is user error very close to 100% of the time.
Just had to replace 3 SharkBite connectors in my bathrooms. One of them started leaking pretty heavily after being installed 15 months ago on a water line that I use every day. After I turned of the water and replaced faulty connection and turned the water to the house back on another started leaking. After I repeated the procedure the third one started leaking. This system is too unreliable and is a time bomb waiting to explode.
Yeah, sorry, but no. I do not trust a rubber o-ring more than bonded metals over the long term. I’ve worked on too much old machinery to know better than that. I’ll trust them as a frost proof spigot connector, which are basically consumables that need replaced every 10-20 years and different areas in an unfinished basement or under the sink. I do not trust rubber o-ring as a permanent connection behind a wall. That’s some “handyman” hack shit. Apartment maintenance guys love them.
To answer the title! Please don’t be fool and cuss these products. They make too many per day and collect millions a month from this product. So don’t join the morons and claim it’s the fitting. Too many people have had great success with these. You will look like a fool. It’s installer error. New construction need not even look this way. You better not spend that much on a fitting for new work. And yes they will go bad after 10 -15 years. I call them a permanently temporary fix. But they work. For 7 years I have a 3/4 female shark bite tied directly to my hot side on heater. Be aware of the age of advisor your seaming. Old school only believe old school. Unless the boss bought them an exclusive tool to create job security. Propress. That’s the dumbest thing ever. People gonna call us back. They aren’t gonna change a flapper in toilet much less get in crawlspace. Our jobs aren’t going anywhere. Now learn the new technology to make your life easier.
I can’t tell if this is a camera trick or you guys are really twins!? However, I’ve been worried for two days about using shark-bites behind my shower wall. Not sure if I am going to get clamps, crimps or gamble with the Shark. I believe Shark Bite will last for a long time but I don’t like the idea of it having a Rubber O-Ring. Clamps and Crimps have no Rubber Ring to worry about.
Even I, with horrible plumbing skills, replaced every valve in my basement with 1/2″ SharkBite Slip ball valves and not one leak! I bought all the right tools to do it correctly including the SharkBite deburring / depth gauge and copper pipe cutter. The first valve replacement took me over an hour because I was scared and knew if I screwed up I would need to call in a professional. The other 14 valves, I did them in less than 10 minutes each. If I can do it then anyone can. This is a great article, thanks for posting.
Sure, they’re fabulous for you as an installer. And 20 years down the line as a repairer. Perhaps not so great from anyone planning on living in the same place for a long while. Paying big bucks for iffy and decrepitating connectors does not sound like a good deal to me. All O-rings eventually lose their elasticity and it’s swimming-pool, Arizona.
Everyone seems to be over reacting to this it’s not rocket science I’m a journey,an hvac tech and do plumbing on the side I have 1) replaced my water heater with a tankless water heater used 6 sharkbite fittings on it no issues at all been 3 years 2) replaced multiple leaking sections in the ceiling and behind cabinet sink the hoses work better if your sloppy with the cutting 3) I have hard water all the old 25 yr old copper lines are leaking now I’m pulling them all out an replacing with pex-b and shark bite fittings and I’m not worried to the slightest bit . Just don’t cut the pipe straight clean it with some sandpaper and just push it all the way on both sides of the lines like you don’t even need the depth tool the teeth of the sharkbite grab your not gonna push the shark bite past anywhere it’s not supposed to be lol everyone is treating this like it requires 130+ IQ lol we ain’t building a bridge to Rome your dealing with low pressure 1/2 inch water line for residential use like lol geez call Einstein 😂
The ONLY massive leak/problem I had, I replaced the water shut off valves under my bathroom sink with shark bites, I put a few on before and followed the steps and when I went to replace the valves I thought “is it really THAT big of a deal to debur etc?” And I skipped it, popped the shark bites on and turned the water back on and they sprayed water EVERYWHERE. Quickly shut the water off, popped them off and debured the crap out of the pipes and popped them back on and didn’t have a problem. That’s not even a Sharkbite fitting issue itself, that was 110% my own wrong doing.
Excellent article. I needed to know if I should use shark bite on my outdoor copper sprinkler and you addressed that. I searched many articles yours was the first to address outdoor exposed to the some sunlight. Thank you unfortunately this makes my repair of the line more of a hassle. That’s better than having a second problem down the road.. Thank you
Great article – my dilemma is I have a slos leak coming from my sons room wall. Which is about 4 to 5 ft away from my garage water heater. A relative (retired plumber) said all I would need to do is replace the water heater valve and recommend this shark bite valve and hose combo piece. He never looked at it I just him article. And that’s the recommendation. Idk what to do and I don’t have the $$$ for a plumber.
Maybe everyone needs to write the date of installation on these fittings so we actually know how long they last! Lol It sounds more and more that they are temperamental to drained water lines, getting torqued on, and long term use (along with the perfect preparation of the pipe thats required). Im not opposed to using them in a pinch, but Im not going to put my reputation on the line for a product that may or may not work long term. If a plumbing part doesn’t have service life longer than a typical home mortgage, should we still use it?
I’ve seen cutaway SharkBite fittings exposing the way they’re designed to work with an internal rubber gasket that comes in contact with the outside rim of the pipe only . So, seems to me, YES you need to deburr the pipe on the outside to prevent damaging that gasket when seating the fitting. BUT there should be no need to deburr the inside rim since it really doesn’t come in contact with anything. Do you agree guys?
I wanted to install one of those Oatey supply valve boxes for my washer and dryer since all I currently have is a massive hole in the drywall with the two valves coming out. Plumbing is new to me. The most I’ve done is replacing supply valves with compression fittings on a sink. Really glad I stumbled across this article because I’m pretty sure my washer and dryer valves are connected to soft copper (there are some “bends” in it already). Can’t use compression fittings either because I want to close up the wall around the supply valve box. Is my only option soldering the pipes?
Had a senior HVAC tech (family member) with 25 years experience replace a sprinkler system shutoff valve in my house. It was easily accessible in my basement ceiling, nothing in the way. He used a shark bite fitting, and could not get it to stop leaking. Cut out the fitting and welded in another fitting. No thank you.
great info. thank you for posting. i recently had a leak in my washer shutoff valve, so i bought a push and connect shutoff valve from home depot. i did everything right use a pipe cutter, deburr the cutoff end, and also used some o ring lube before sliding the push and connect, and heard the click sound. i turned the water and found no leak from the fitting. but when i turned the washer on the valve came right off flooding my basement. could you please tell what might have gone wrong?
I prefer to crimp the brass couplers on PEX B, but the expensive Sharbites are great in tight places. Love the PEX. Copper and PVC are a pain in the butt. I dare you to find glue or a selection of fittings in January. PEX is the way. The stainless crimps don’t go bad in the plumbing toolbox! No more sanding copper fittings! – No flux leaking on my nice plyers! No purple stains on stuff! No toxic fumes or smoke! – Can’t beat it yet, but maybe PEX A is better but the easy home use of PEX B is the way for the homeowner. Just “Get the tools and follow the rules”.
I’m fixing a pipe in my wall that the previous homeowner used sharkbite fitting on a 3/4 copper pipe. They make a c shape out of cpvc using sharkbite 90’s and it sprung a leak out of one of the 90’s I’m assuming they didn’t install them correctly. I’m using sharkbite again I just got the 18′ braided fitting and I’m going to clean the copper,cut it properly, ream the inside and outside of the pipe. I’m confident my fix will be done properly but if it happens to leak down the road I’ll call a plumber to just install a piece of copper or replace the line entirely. But I’m sure mine will hold longer than I own this house! Thanks for the tips