The installation of a microwave vent to the outside is crucial for efficient ventilation and removal of smoke, odors, and excess moisture from your kitchen. Over-the-range microwaves can be vented either outside or recirculated within the kitchen using a charcoal filter. Vented outside is recommended for better air quality. A microwave oven designed to be mounted over a cooktop is usually equipped with a ventilation system to cope with cooking odors, smoke, and moisture that rise from the cooking surface.
Installing a microwave vent outside can be more complex than an over-the-range (OTR) vent, as it requires drilling a hole through the wall and connecting the vent. External vents exhaust air to the outside of your home through a duct system, reducing the amount of moisture, heat, and grease in your kitchen. All Over-the-Range Microwaves can be vented to the outside using an equivalent total of 140 feet of rigid 3 1/4″ x 10″ rectangular or rigid 6″ round ducting.
The size of the opening is fairly standard but the placement varies. The width of the OTRs vary, but the opening is typically horizontally centered in the back. New models blow air back out through a thin strip across top, near the front, meaning that vent area must not be covered by a cabinet. This article provides a step-by-step guide on how to route a microwave exhaust vent to the outside, or external venting, allowing you to upgrade your kitchen.
Some over-the-range microwaves vent outside, some recirculate air, and many can do both. Before installing a microwave, ensure that the vent is located at the top of the microwave face frame or a top panel that opens as a flap when the exhaust fan of the microwave is running.
📹 How to Properly Use Ductwork to Vent a Microwave Exhaust Fan Outside
Venting a microwave outside requires installation of duct work to an outside wall or a roof. Use the code and installation …
Are microwave vent locations standard?
Microwaves are shipped with venting options, either vertically or horizontally. To ensure proper air draw, ducts must be the specified sizes and not ducted into common duct work. They should not be ducted into attics or crawl spaces. Round ducts should have a minimum diameter of six inches and use a rectangular to round transition adapter. Corrugated cardboard or plastic ducts are not recommended. The equivalent total feet of ductwork is the sum of all elbows, transitions, wall caps, adapters, and straight duct length. Deduct 140 feet for each item used.
Does my microwave have to vent outside?
The Over The Range (OTR) Microwave oven can be set up to either recirculate the air back into the kitchen or vent to the outdoors. It comes with features like convenience, lighting for the range below, and a vent fan to remove smoke, steam, and odors from the cooking surface. There are two options for venting the exhaust fan: recirculation and venting to the outdoors. It’s important to consider the pros and cons of each venting solution when choosing the best solution for your OTR microwave oven.
Where are the oven vents?
Oven cleaning is crucial for maintaining a safe and healthy kitchen. The vents on the door handle can be cleaned using a warm, wet paper towel and a wooden spoon. While deep inside vents cannot be cleaned, they can be swept using a wooden spoon. Range hoods, like ovens, are built differently and can be easier to clean. They help clean and cool the air in the kitchen, providing relief for users and keeping appliances in peak condition.
To clean a range hood, remove the filter, place it in warm, soapy water, and add baking soda to break up grease build-up. Allow the filter to soak for several minutes before rinsing. Wipe both the inside and outside of the range hood with a warm, soapy cloth. If the filter is beyond cleaning, replace it.
Proper internal and external ventilation is essential for built-in ovens, as it keeps the oven running smoothly and makes the kitchen a safe and healthy place. Robam offers high-quality range hoods for sale, making them an excellent addition to your kitchen. Visit their website for more home remodel ideas and inspiring appliance collections.
Do Samsung microwaves vent outside?
In order to remove the metal plate located at the upper portion of the microwave’s exterior, it is necessary to ensure that the airflow is directed into the ductwork.
Where is the vent fan on the over the range microwave?
Microwave over the range (OTR) venting systems exhaust through grease or carbon filters, recirculating air back into the home. These systems often have visible vents at the top of the face frame or a flap that opens when the exhaust fan is activated. The filter element filters cooking by-products, which are crucial for kitchen venting solutions. Maintaining a clean filter or using carbon-based filters is recommended.
The Microvisor® provides an additional capture zone for the microwave over the range venting function. Once installed, more effective containment and improved updraft are achieved, resulting in less grease on cabinets and ceilings, reduced fire alarms, and better exhausting performance.
Where are the vents on a built in microwave?
The external exhaust vent for the microwave is situated on the rear of the upper portion of the device, enabling the release of vapour through the roof. In the event that the venting is directed back into the room, it would seem that the outlet is situated at the front, at the top. The grease pickup is located beneath the microwave oven, situated above the range, and is equipped with grease screens. The exhaust is configured with the use of a charcoal filter.
Do LG microwaves vent to the outside?
LG Over-the-Range Microwaves use a vent fan and charcoal filters to capture smoke, steam, and odors. They can be vented outside through ductwork or inside through charcoal filters. LG’s selection includes models with ExtendaVent™ 2. 0, which reduces smoke and lingering cooking smells. ExtendaVent™ 2. 0 expands to provide powerful ventilation over more of the cooktop’s surface area. LG offers over-the-range microwaves and other kitchen appliances for a sleek, professional upgrade.
Do all built-in microwaves need to be vented?
It is essential to ensure that built-in microwaves are adequately ventilated, with a cabinet depth of between 15 and 22 inches being typical. The depth of the cabinet is contingent upon the specific model in question. To gain a deeper comprehension of the optimal microwave to purchase, it is recommended to refer to this comprehensive microwave purchasing guide. It is recommended that prospective purchasers examine the latest offers on select KitchenAid major appliances.
Do built-in microwaves need to be vented?
Built-in microwaves are designed to free up counter space in kitchens by integrating with cabinets, walls, or islands. They require adequate ventilation and can be installed into kitchen cabinets or fixed walls to create an integrated look. The size, power, and features of the microwave depend on the individual’s cooking, baking, and creative style. This article provides information on what to consider when buying a built-in microwave, available models, and features to help you explore your culinary interests. By choosing a built-in microwave, you can reclaim valuable work surface area and create more room for culinary creativity.
Where are the vents on a built-in microwave?
The external exhaust vent for the microwave is situated on the rear of the upper portion of the device, enabling the release of vapour through the roof. In the event that the venting is directed back into the room, it would seem that the outlet is situated at the front, at the top. The grease pickup is located beneath the microwave oven, situated above the range, and is equipped with grease screens. The exhaust is configured with the use of a charcoal filter.
What does externally vented microwave mean?
Microwaves are versatile appliances that can be used for various purposes, such as reheating food, preparing meals, or heating food. Some models have a sensor cook or convection feature for easy reheating, and they come in various sizes and wattages, typically over 800 watts. They can be venting options, such as external or recirculating venting. Low profile microwaves are smaller and wider than conventional models, allowing them to fit in the same space as an under-cabinet range hood.
They can also fit tall glasses and wide dishware. Built-in microwaves are available in various sizes and wattages, and they can be installed into a wall or cabinet for convenient operation. However, they require a larger upfront investment and are recommended for professional installation. Overall, microwaves offer a variety of features and options for cooking and dining.
📹 How To Install A Microwave (Over-The-Range Style)
Here is my video showing you how to remove a hanging microwave: If you have questions about your home improvement projects …
I watched both the removal and installation articles and I now feel that I can absolutely do this myself. I honestly appreciate the fact that you leave in the parts where you have to refer to the manual. We all do. These articles are very well done and please keep them coming! You have a subscriber for life!
TWO big-ass thumbs up! I was hired yesterday to mount a TV and microwave. Although I’ve mounted tons of TVs, I’ve never done a microwave before in my life. After perusal this incredibly descriptive article, I not only sounded like I’d done this before, but the job came out perfectly! Thank you so much!!!
Do you have a article showing the installation of the venting either through the back of the microwave or up into the cabinets an out? Or to the roof and out. I cannot go to the roof so I would like to see how you attach the parts to go directly behind the microwave because it does waiting for the stove also.
Great article! It has clear and userfriendly directions to follow. You did a great job explaining how to to this. By the way, I like to be able to see the unexpected things that we can run into while doing this kind of installation. Keep making these articles, so we can access to them and not be afraid to tackle projects like this.
Hi Shannon, Just wanted to thank you for this great article and all of the other ones in your series. I just subscribed and couldn’t be happier to have found your website! I really appeciate all of the time & effort that you have put into sharing your knoweldge & experience with the viewers. I wish there were more helpful people like you in the world and I’m sure that you have made your parents proud. Looking forward to perusal all of your articles! Best regards, Tom
Putting one in an old farmhouse. More of a visual learner than reader and you just save me a few hours of cussing and throwing tools. Glad you showed how to use the drywall screw because i have no idea where studs are due to plaster and lathe strips throwing the studfinder off. Awesome article thank you very much!!!
Great article as always ! The only one tip from my MW installation experience with all that kitchen cabinets quality that could be a good idea to use large diameter washers for those upper bolts or sometimes plates if the upper shelf had a bunch of holes from previous installations . After few years of usage the smoke and steam from MW vent makes top shelf “wood ” softer and bolts start sinking thru the wood in cheap cabinets (seen it many times in last 20 years installing MWs)
Thank you, I have installed several over the range microwaves and only thing I would had done differently is use a level (regardless of template) when drilling back wall mounting. Also a trick of mine is to place a wood surface such as a plywood board on top of the stove and then place two plastic boxes such as milk storage boxes or just storage boxes which will raise the microwave and make it easier for one person to mount. I watch most of your articles although I am a professional, just cause I enjoy them.
looks like I got the same unit. The cardbox template seems to create added errors. I started measure the holes on the unit itself since there is a very good reference point under the cabinet. The unit is flush to the top and nearly flush on the sides and held out the thickness of your added build out piece. I have to do the same. The old unit was an inch less in height. Your article was very helpful.
It’s amazing that just about every manufacturer has the top mount screw holes in a different location. Even if you replace an old microwave with a new one from the same manufacturer, there is no guarantee the holes match. I can understand why one manufacturer doesn’t want to use the same locations as a competitor uses ( gives you incentive to go with the same manufacturer when replacing the microwave in the future ) but can’t for the life of me understand why one manufacturer would change the hole locations on their own product . That goes for the wall mount bracket too. They keep changing that around which makes even less sense, AND…..just to mess with you a little more, they keep changing the height of the microwaves so even if they use the same wall mount bracket, you have to relocate it, AND… if the new microwave is less in height and your tiles went flush against the old microwave, you now have a gap under the new microwave. Keeps installers busy though
Believe it or not I bought the very same microwave, and the same cabinets. I have read the installation instructions several times without understanding, everything was as clear as mud. Your article is clear and concise to the point and easily understood, made installation crystal clear. Thanks to you this job was without headache. I can not say Thank You enough, keep up the good work.
I had just finished the install of my new microwave after perusal this and it went so smooth without any cursing, lol. I also ran into the same issue where the hanging bracket would be halfway on the backsplash tile. I had to use a piece of 3/8″ plywood to “build it out” as you say. Also, great tip on having to move the upper cabinet template out to compensate for the 3/8″ being built out. That little tid bit of info right there probably saved me from having to make swiss cheese out of the cabinet and most likely cursing out loud. Thanks Shannon!
This is the article that saved me a year or two ago. My wife just bought a new house a month before we met, when we weren’t super serious she bought a new microwave/range to exhaust through the roof and she hired “professionals” to install it. Two years later the microwave/exhaust gave out and completely quit working. I found a new unit on Kijiji for $50 CAD that worked perfectly and this article helped me figure out how to take the old one out/down and put the “new” one up. We now bought a new house which doesn’t have any over the range exhaust and my wife misses the microwave/over the range exhaust and this article helped me graciously to understand how to start one from scratch, thanks!!
Super helpful article, Shannon. Thanks so much. The challenging part for me was working with walls that were not square which was going to effect the ability for the door to fully open. I figured out a slightly off-centre position for the back plate on the wall, drilled an oversized hole for the power cord then “dry” mounted the microwave. My son held it in place and by tipping it down a bit, I could see the line where the two top screws had to be. We then removed the microwave, put up the top template and lined up the screw holes we marked with the template which gave us the depth. We drilled the top holes and they lined up perfectly. As desired, the microwave was positioned a bit off centre so the door could swing fully open without hitting the adjoining wall.
Thanks for this article being a single female that now owns a home and have to things myself I want to thank you for this article. I love the way you gave the info step by step and explained why. I also like that you explained the other options that you may be faced with when it came to the venting of the microwave. That’s the first place I got lost so since I came to you to see how to take the old one down. I came back to see how to put up the new one. Thanks again for being through with your instructions,
Thank you for the help. It had been several years since my last microwave remove/install. perusal you made the whole process so much easier. The old one is out, the new one is in. One person install just like you did. Your articles are great ! Clear, concise, and to the point with no added nonsense. I am subscribing now !
I put in over the range microwaves for my job, run into a lot of old cabinets with old wood or press board I usually use large washers up top to distribute the weight more also his particular cabinet had a flat bottom so the hole for the cord had to be new so the microwave sit’s flat but I can usually use the old hole and stuff the remaining cord down into the cabinet
Your uninstall and now this install article were a HUGE help. The tile backsplash on my wall went halfway up the back of the microwave, so I had to drill right through the tile. I didn’t have masonry bits, so I sacificed a few wood bits to the “honey-do-list” gods rather than making a trip to the hardware store. Worked out just fine in the end. Thank you again for the excellent how-to articles. I’m eating a plate of warmed up leftovers as I type, thanks to you. 😉
My old Figidaire OTR microwave broke and i bout one newer that is the same brand and same dimensions as the old one but it weighs 1.5 pounds more. It does come with the exact same bracket secures with 2 butterfly screws but i’m scared that the 1.5 pound difference is going to make it fall. The bracket is solid as heck though. has anyone ever had this dilemma?
Thank you, Shannon! This was exactly my new replacement install. You covered everything that I needed to know with the same tiles, to needing some 3/8 plywood to having to drill a new hole. The only thing I did not have to do was the top vent. It did take me much longer though even with reading the instructions.
Thanks Shannon! Have been perusal your website for a few years. I’ll be doing a microwave like that, fridge with water/ice maker, and putting a dishwasher in our new house very soon. It doesn’t currently have a dishwasher so I found your electrical/plumbing article for dishwashers really handy. I appreciate your very detailed style and you’re also Canadian which helps a lot with relevant code etc. Thanks!!
Love Your Descriptive article I Am Putting A Kenmore Oven Microwave on Top Of My Stove Like Yours But my Counter Top Cabinet Doesn’t Have A Cabinet To Hide The Outlet Or Cord Or Shelve & This article Gave Me A Lot Of Informative Ideas & A Lot Less Headaches To Make My Job A Lot Easier Science I Have Never Installed One On Top Of My Oven Before & Mine Is A Bist, Thank You very Much For Your article I Loved It & I Learned A Lot……😊😊😊😊😊😊😮😮😮😮😅
Great article I just scribed to your website, I really like the detailed information. I am ready to remove mine & install a new one. I just started a youtube website on HOW TO articles I am going to make a article on how to remove a microwave oven and install a new one and post it on my website. thanks again
HouseImprovements. So helpful. While here in USA (you sound Canadian) Home Depot is generally pretty knowledgeable – with regard to these over range microwaves, they do NOT. They insisted with me no templating was needed, so long as it was 29.5″ all was good. This is not the case! There’s MUCH more too it than this. Many thanks.
I just took out my original Wall Oven and the connected Microwave (all one unit), it was all connected to a 240v junction box stuffed into a cut-out hole on the back drywall with one metal hose. I am installing a new GE wall oven and a separate GE Microwave above the oven (two separate components). Obviously, the oven will get a metal hose to the 240v, but this particular wall Microwave has a regular 120v wall plug. I will need to wire up an outlet. Can I tap into the 240v junction box for 120v and run 12-2 to just one side of the 240v circuit (120v) and run that to the newly purchased outlet (receptacle) so I can plug the new microwave in? In other words, the old units were sharing the 220v junction box (old Oven was 220 and old Microwave was 120). It’s just that the old unit was an all-in-one combo where the new units are separately purchased and don’t share the same wiring. Thanks in advance for any suggestions!!!
Why not add a duplicate “spacer” plywood more toward the top?…to “match” the one you put below to clear the tile? OK…maybe not totally necessary but would seem to better mimic placing the unit as originally intended against the back wall, and gives you a more certain “stop” when the unit is up-and-level. Also this–> sometimes the “underside” of the top cabinet is not just a flat plate…as yours is… but is recessed, so maybe a spacer block needs to be added on the top around each bolt hole. And lastly….you put a spacer piece against the back wall to avoid hitting the tiles. There is ANOTHER reason you may need to do this….and end up using a thick spacer like a 2×4. Why? If your unit vents inside….into the room……the front/top 1-1.5″ is the exit port for such venting, for most microwaves I’ve seen….and you want to make sure the oven is placed far-enough “out” to have the vents clear the underside of the top cabinets !!! ….. lots of install tutorials miss this, and it may be important.
Great article–as many, many others have said (I couldn’t read all the comments!). One question. Using the plywood on the bottom to “save the tile” and give the proper spacing answered part of my dilemma. Would using another strip of plywood at the top be ok instead of trying to tape that template in place? Thanks in advance.
Matching to the existing top vent is the hard part. There are no existing parts to do the job so I am having to hand fabricate a transition because of the limited vertical space. The mircowave manufacturer ssys to use 6″ round duct. The standard rectangular transition is to a 6″ round. The house was built with a 5″ round duct going out through roof. The original install stuffed a piece of 4″ flex duct to align the duct. I am waiting for Amazon to deliver my round 5″ flex duct that is actually aluminum dryer vent duct and is also recomended for range hoods.
I don’t understand, how come 800 people Thumb down this article. They don’t speak English? Because of several articles i have seen on Installing Similar Microwaves, This one is the best. The only thing the others do different is; They use a leveling instrument, but as you just saw if you have Factory Templates, you don’t need that. Thank you, I will also watch your other article on how to dismount the old one.
that’s a way too easy install. I dare ya to install one if the Sharpe Carousel Convection Microwave units….only about 75lbs. The real fun is installing two bolts that secure the unit to the back bracket….the bolts are about 18″ long and have to be fed through the body of the unit AND hit the 3/8″ or so screw hole….all the while NOTHING but you and a lip along the bottom of the bracket is taking the weight. Only took me a week of trying but i got it. If i have to ever replace it, I might just grab a unit like yours here sans convection oven feature. Your article gives me hope there is a better way…PAY someone to install it! hahaha
So I replaced my old GE with a Whirlpool today. The moron who had installed the GE microwave suspended a bracket from two toggle bolts. The old bracket was not compatible with the new microwave. Instead of doing a shoddy job I bought a ceramic drill bit so that I could attach the new bracket directly to the top of the tile which forms the backsplash. Drilling two holes through the “granite” tile took over an hour. Instead of using a helper, I sat a milk crate upside down on the top of the stove. Then, I lifted the microwave onto the milk crate. Standing on a chair, I was able to lift the back of the microwave onto the hooks of the bracket. Next, I used some scrap 4×4 to hold up the front of the microwave close to its final position and I was able to screw in the long bolts. Presto! It took only 20 minutes at the most to finish the project after I had drilled the tiles.
Well going to install Dads today. First I had to unwedge it out of his Veloster which took 20 minutes as we had to cut the box open and pull it out of the box, we of course destroyed the template on the box. Second I had to pull the stove out and wait until he could find a vacuum to remove 5 years of dog hair and dirt, another 20 minutes. Third, wait until he finished wiping his stove off. Fourth, remove old microwave which was caught on the bracket as it was half way secured(my back still hurting today). Today I go back for the install. Im deciding between work out powder or an Advil, and will have to hold my tongue. Im hoping he has the bracket up when I come over, that would be nice, I need a vacation.
Thanks for the helpful article. I replaced a GE m/w with an LG. The one replaced looks like it was the second one installed with extra holes everywhere. The GE was not secured to the wall properly and I know it was an installer that did it because the house was a rental and a renter would not likely have spent money for a replacement m/w. It was on a U shaped hanging bracket with the lag bolts in the top of the U arms and no bolts at all in the support bracket along the bottom. The left bolt was in a stud, the right bolt was a butterfly clamp bolt with only half the clamp pushed into the hole and half still in the hole. It was loose not really supporting any weight. The cabinet bolt on the right side was dropping through an oversized hole on top with no washer. The entire right side of the m/w could have fallen at any time. I was able to secure the new support bracket on both sides in studs which were in perfect locations. They could have done that too but were obviously too lazy and couldn’t care less. I’m glad I installed the replacement m/w myself.
Outstanding article. I really appreciate how you show the difficult challenges that someone might run into – like the framing where you want the vent, and the tile under half of the bracket. I wish I had watched this before I paid a “pro” to do it. He didn’t turn the blower to the back (for wall venting) and he didn’t check the existing cutout in the wall to be sure it was big enough (it wasn’t). After perusal this article, I fixed everything myself. Thank you for making this!
i am not a big fan of butterfly screws. if you need to remove the plank, the butterfly wings fall inside. plus, it relies on the strength of the gypsum, which is not great. in this case the plywood helps great. I love the bolts that go into studs. and, you can use many smaller screws that go into the plywood.
Old lady here – first time seeing Shannon. Love this article, and made me laugh when you couldn’t find the screws at the first and ultimately said, “I’ll take a look at the instructions.” You are so cute, young man. I just fixed the door switch on a microwave via YouTube vids and now have to hang it without templates. What’s the worst that can happen? Haha
Your articles were excellent, because of you I can get someone to help me remove and install a microwave over the range. I loved your details so now I know I’ll need to remove cabinet doors, a 1/4 inch x 30 inch plywood x 6 inches to meet the tile backsplash, a light drill, drill bit for hanging/screw, hole cutter for cord, spade bit to hang microwave from cabinet, screwdriver, stud finder, cardboard to slide microwave on countertop, scissors to cut templates and steps tool to get up and screw microwave into cabinet. I can do this with a strong helper. Ty
Cannot thank you enough for this article and excellent information. The way you showed each step, the how and why helped me to install my microwave. The idea to use an extra piece of wood for the mounting bracket and how to mount the bracket got me past the biggest problem. Took me about 1 hour from taking out the old microwave to installing the new one. The other best part is saving $130.00 by installing it myself.
My dad and I are about to put in an OTR microwave in a space that has never had one. My house was built in 1989 and it still has the original vent used before OTR microwaves were a thing. What’s more, there is no electric ran to the cupboard above the range so we have to take the vent out, run an outlet in the cupboard, then install the new microwave.
HI. Great job explaining it man. You are a real good communicator. I wish I had you installing mine. A salesman tried to sell me a smaller (less height) than the one I have. Now I know i should get a slightly bigger one (height is .5 inch higher than my existing one) so that I don”t end up with a big hole in my stone back splash. Great job and mjuch appreciated.
thank you for that article, it’s clear and making everything easy, but, the thing that I was waiting for it I didn’t see it, I wish that you make another article showing in it(How to Install a Microwave Hood with Exhaust Fan) how to make open in the wall behind the microwave to get out the smoke from the microwave filters to outside the kitchen and how to change the fans of the microwave so the would send the smoke to outside the kitchen, thank you.
So, because you had the plywood already in the stud, it wouldn’t matter if you were lined up with a stud for the bracket or not, yes? I am trying to replace a Kenmore with a Maytag and the holes aren’t in the same place. However, since I’d already had the Maytag for an earlier move, I have no idea where the template is. I am going to try putting a pencil eraser in the bolt holes and putting magic marker on the top of the eraser. I’ll put the bottom in the bracket and raise it up to the cabinet. In theory, when the microwave raises up the wet eraser should mark the cabinet where the holes need to go.
Great article. I had a few challenges and I won’t know until tomorrow how much tolerance is given to top holes being drilled. It seems like when Shannon was lining up the holes on the top there was a little forgiveness to get the screws threaded. My biggest challenge was like this install with a backsplash. I cut a 1/4 thick piece of plywood to shim the mounting bracket and for the top template
i would not take a over the range microwave for free, imo they are dangerous as you can possibly drop something on a boiling pot, they are too high to be used by children, and are especially dangerous and hard to use for elderly or disabled. a high quality outside vented range hood is a lot more practical, does a vastly better job of ventilating, and use you’re head to find a better place for the microwave.