Stacked stone is a wall cladding that uses natural stone pieces meticulously cut to various thicknesses and lengths, creating a three-dimensional look. This decorative treatment adds texture and is suitable for virtually any room in your house. With a broad range of interior stone veneer panels available in different styles and textures, you can find the best stacked stone interior wall pictures and ideas on Houzz.
When done correctly, natural stone accent walls are timeless and can be used indoors and out. They are suitable for various design styles, such as around a fireplace, bathroom, foyer, or as a focal point in your kitchen. With an installation profile that is simple, stone feature walls are simple, easy, and more cost-effective than ever. Browse from over 12 different colors and styles of Stacked Stone Wall Panels.
When it comes to updating or replacing a dominant Florida Lime stone wall, it seems too involved and expensive to remove. To avoid looking dated, it is best to set the wall about 6 feet high and let it cure overnight. Stacked stone gets out of whack pretty fast, so use wedges and a straight edge.
In terms of drywall, it is important to cut out just enough so that the cut line is hidden by the edge of the new stone going up. Classico Limewash, Masonry Flat, Lime Slurry, and Venetian Glaze are four products you can use to easily update interior or exterior stone. Some people dislike stacked stone not because it is “dated” but because they find it very commercial looking.
📹 How to Install Exterior Fake Stone Wall Panel DIY
We PROUDLY make our panels in the USA, Easy to install, DIY, faux wall panels that are lightweight, look just like real stone, and …
What are the disadvantages of stone walls?
Masonry is a popular construction technique worldwide due to its advantages, such as uniform shape and size of units, lightweight construction, ease of handling and transport, and lower costs compared to stones and concrete blocks. However, it has its drawbacks, such as thick and heavy walls, high self-weight, low flexural strength, tensile strength, and seismic resistance. Stone masonry is time-consuming and requires skilled workers, making it difficult to alter, repair, or relocate.
On the other hand, brick masonry is a more cost-effective and efficient method, as it is uniform in shape and size, lightweight, easy to handle and transport, and can be adhered with different types of mortar depending on structural requirements. This method also allows for easier openings for doors and windows, reducing costs.
Is stacked stone outdated?
Brick, river stone, barn stone, and stacked stone fireplaces are still fashionable today, but manufactured stone veneer offers a modern, budget-friendly, and eco-friendly alternative. Our skilled artisans create various stone veneer designs that mimic natural stones while considering current trends in color, texture, and scale. These veneers are ideal for upgrading existing hearths or designing new ones that blend into your home’s overall ambience.
Here are six stone veneer fireplace ideas that bring a modern sensibility to timeless comfort. These ideas are perfect for updating the look and feel of your fireplace and enhancing your home’s overall aesthetic.
Is Stack stone dated?
Stacked stone ledger panels are a timeless and stylish choice for any room, as they are made from real stone. The rustic, homespun look is popular, and stacked stone is a natural fit for this aesthetic. The color and textures of stacked stone panels can elevate a room’s ambiance and mood, adding visual interest to even the most elegant or contemporary settings. Some popular stacked stone panel colors and textures include Arctic White, which is crafted with natural split-face marble, adding a unique texture.
This snowy-white stone wall tile can be matched with other stone surfaces without looking too country or rustic. Stacked stone also pairs well with faux materials like vinyl plank flooring and wood-look porcelain tile flooring. Overall, stacked stone panels demonstrate the versatility of stone panels and their ability to add visual interest to any setting.
Is stacked stone timeless?
Stacked stone is an architectural material that offers a variety of aesthetics, including timeless, rustic, modern, funky, or retro. It is a popular choice in both interior and exterior design due to its versatility and natural appeal. Stacked stones are stacked on top of each other, varying in size, color, and shape, giving each application a unique and organic look. Stacked stone is durable, resistant to harsh weather conditions, and provides a natural look that enhances the aesthetic appeal of any space. It requires minimal maintenance and can add depth and dimension to a room or building facade.
Is Ledger Stone out of style?
Avalon Flooring is a trusted source for natural stone flooring, offering a wide range of products that are both durable and stylish. The company’s commitment to customer satisfaction extends from the showroom to the installation process. They are a “One-Stop Shopping” destination for all things flooring and window treatments. Their design consultants are knowledgeable about their products, while their expert installation team is professionally trained to ensure the installation is done according to your vision. Avalon Flooring believes that your home is an expression of your style, and they aim to make you proud for years to come.
What are the pros and cons of stacked stone?
Stones are cut, fit, and glued together into an interlocking panel without mesh backing, reducing onsite cutting and allowing for quicker installation. However, careful handling is necessary to avoid breakage. The panels fit together without modification, and seams disappear when stagger by 1/3 of their length. Matching corners interlock perfectly, allowing for weaving back and forth to stagger joints. To shorten a corner, stepped cuts using a wet saw are required. This method is also applicable to flat panels.
Are stone walls still in style?
Stone accent walls are gaining popularity as a home design trend in 2021, with homeowners and designers embracing the unique look. Affinity Stone offers easy-to-install stone veneer panels and stone column kits, making this trend more accessible. These panels can be incorporated into various spaces, making a significant impact on both inside and outside spaces. The exterior of a home, or curb appeal, significantly influences its value and can be difficult to change. Stone veneer accents can make ordinary siding look eye-catching and add an upscale feel to the entire home. Here are some of the favorite exterior stone wall ideas for homes of all sizes:
- Installing stone veneer panels on the exterior of the house.
- Installing stone veneer panels on the interior of the house.\n3
Why can’t stone be dated?
Radiocarbon dating is a widely used scientific method in archaeology and environmental science, spanning dates from a few hundred years ago to about 50, 000 years ago. It is applied to most organic materials and requires the material to have once been part of a living organism. This means that objects like stone, metal, and pottery cannot be directly dated without some organic material embedded or left as a residue.
The dating principle involves the presence of radiocarbon in the material, which can be found in organic materials like stone, metal, and pottery. The dating principle also involves sample selection and further reading for further understanding.
What do stacked stones symbolize?
Stones serve as memorials, pilgrimage points, talismans, and symbols of faith, balancing geological time with human time. For example, on the Camino de Santiago, hikers heap up conical cairns on their way to Saint James’ grave. The path and cairns are as much about human passage as religion. In Judaism, tombstones are often left with a rock to honor the person, while in some Indigenous cultures in the American Southwest, spit on a rock and place it on a cairn to transfer energy and rejuvenate oneself.
What is the difference between stacked stone and ledgestone?
Stacked stone, with its uniform texture, may not appeal to those seeking a more varied and rustic appearance. Ledge stone, or ledgestone, is a more organic and irregular approach, characterized by varying depths and sizes, providing a rustic and textured appearance reminiscent of natural rock formations. This type of stone is often associated with a relaxed and casual aesthetic, making it an excellent choice for those who prefer a laid-back and earthy atmosphere.
Ledge stone captures the beauty of irregular, natural formations, creating a visually captivating and authentic ambiance. The diverse texture adds depth and character to any space, making it an excellent choice for traditional or cottage-style interiors.
Are stone fireplaces coming back?
Stone fireplaces are timeless elements in interior design, enhancing the space with their rustic appeal. They adapt to changes in taste and decor trends, making their appeal universal and enduring. Stone fireplaces can be tailored to any interior design theme, with the extensive variety of stone types available, each with unique textures and colors. They can be used to create a sleek and modern ambiance or evoke a rich and traditional atmosphere. In contemporary settings, designers often opt for smooth, polished stones that reflect light and contribute to a clean, minimalist look.
These stones can be shaped into geometric forms, creating sharp, defined lines that resonate with modern architectural elements. The neutral colors of grays, blacks, and whites provide a subtle yet striking contrast to the often colorful, dynamic modern interiors. Overall, stone fireplaces are a timeless and enduring addition to any room.
📹 DIY How To Install Stone on Your Fireplace Easily
How To Install Stone On Your Fireplace, and what not to do as well! #justdoityourself #lovingit #perfecteverytime ▻ Subscribe …
My five cents, it best to to hydrate the backer board ( wipe with damp sponge ) do the same with ledger stone, this will give you more time with the mortar/ thinset as the materials if dry will suck out the moisture. Second, permanent marker can sometime migrate to the front of the stone if you are using a softer stone,for example marble etc, it may to a few weeks but eventually it can come through and leave black lines on the surface, ive seen it happen . All the best
Tip from a stone mason: Alternate your corners when faking them. You overhang off the main wall on one, then overhang off the short wall on the next. It really does make it look a lot better. You don’t have to measure how far out they go and then cut them all perfect. Stone isn’t meant to be stuck like tile because the edge just looks weird. If you alternate the corners, it is very hard to tell that you didn’t use actual corners. Cheers!
Another great job Jeff!! When I did my kitchen island I ran into the same problem with the 45’s! So after I cut that straight edge I took a small hammer a just chipped at the end to give it the same look as the face. It took more time, but it was worth it!! Hope you have a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!!
40 yr stone mason here. If you didn’t have the corner stones You should have at least staggered the corners to break up the straight joint. You never want to see a straight vertical joint or sawed edges .. Surely they sell corner stones. I know they are expensive but you just gotta have them. The difference is night and day . But great article
Thank you Jeff and Max. I always enjoy your teaching and instruction. In fact when asked to do some drywall tape and texture for my employer I went you your article “How to drywall A to Z” and then did the work for my boss. He was impressed and thought that I had been doing drywall for many years. Little did he know that I had never done the taping or mudding ever before. I would love to see some instruction from you on texturing. Thank you again John Slater
??We have a brick fireplace with a nice mantle. I bought handmade ceramic tile that I would love to cover part of the brick with (big fan of textures and shapes). Is it ok to use the primer you’ve talked about in other articles (after cleaning brick). Next to lay the cement you show here between the old grout of the brick and then after a first coat build off of it for the new tile? Or do you have another fireplace article I should watch? I love the creativity but following basic rules you’ve shared have been so helpful. This is our first home and previous owner went crazy but, with a lil’ TLC we are pumped for its transformation. Thank you a bunch!
Horizontal/vertical notch lines do matter. Their purpose is to evenly dry the thinset. You want them perpendicular to the tile. These pieces are nearly square, so it doesn’t matter as much, but technically they are wider than they are tall and notch lines should be vertical to provide better air flow to the thinset. Get the proper amount of thinset in quick. It starts curing right away and you don’t want to keep adding mortar as you mix. MOST IMPORTANTLY: you need to let your mix slake. After getting your mix to the right consistency, you need to let it sit for a couple minutes, the. Mix again. Otherwise it starts drying to fast and gets a crust on the outer layer as you spread. You either end up re mixing several times throughout the install and only being able to spread small amounts at a time(if you’re aware this is happening) Otherwise, you’re sticking tile on that appears to be bonding to the substrate but will actually be breaking loose from the mortar as it dries. Always pull some pieces out randomly as you’re working to make sure you have a good bond and coverage. Dang! Good luck homeowners…
I need some help desperately! I’m renovating someone’s fireplace by adding tile on top of their brick, and framing and shplap from the mantle to the ceiling. the client wanted 45 angled tile to wrap around the brick and because I have a cheap tile saw, it chipped a bunch of the edges (which are now installed). is there any clever way to fix this problem without starting all over?
Did you try to use a cold chisel to make the end cuts? Perhaps a fractured stone edge would look a lot better than the cut off a tile saw? Jeff, great tips otherwise, but please go to Ottawa Fastener and buy a few $6 pairs of safety glasses and flip them onto your forehead when you aren’t cutting. Not trying to be a safety troll, just want to be able to see more articles while you can still see to make them!
Thanks for your article, very informative. I looked up how to install for myself because I had a contractor install it and there were many cracks in the stone. He stated this is how it comes and is normal which I find hard to believe. As stated in the end of this article damage stone should be returned, which is what I would think. Also, there were areas where it was not leveled leaving gaps, I have halted the project and now that I watched your article I have knowledge of the right way to install this stone. Thank you so much. I will be showing this to my contractor in the morning.
I loved the honest frustrations with the saw. It was so worth not editing out. I keep thinking I want to tackle projects like this for our house, but I am a worst case scenario type DIYer. I need to how to get myself out of the jams I find myself in! Keep the content coming and I will keep perusal and recommending. Also, fun to actually see Max in the article!
OMG Max, that room has turned out beautiful. I absolutely love it! And Jeff, it’s a good thing you can keep a sense of humor about these things. I know it’s not easy sometimes (like this project), but I’m impressed that you can keep smiling through it all. Thanks for another great article guys. Merry Christmas Everyone!!!
Great job as always Jeff…. you’ve got a unique presentation style that is both informative and friendly. I especially thought the “pivot” (and the explanation) that you made with the miter vs. straight cut was great. That type of dynamic change is what separates good DIY from failures. Happy Holiday wishes to you and your family!
You should always back butter the stone pieces. The backer board will suck the moisture right out of your mortar, you know that Jeff!! So I am curious why you didn’t preach that?? and as I do myself as a professional Masonry Contractor – I would pre moisten the backer board before applying my thin set and you should always protect the surfaces horizontal and vertical around your work from being damaged with your trowel and thin set mortar!! Your beating up that mantel pretty good!! curious why you seem to always be in a hurry and not take more consideration to making a mess!!! Other than that you do really nice work and produce great articles.
I work at Home Depot and I sell those small QEP saws often, I always disclose that they are good for small and thin tile. I am not sure if QEP advertises it or not, but in the Home Depot stores we have signs above all wet saws describing what they are good for. The one you bought is good for basically only small and thin tile, to cut that thick natural stone ledger, you would have needed the 10″ Wet Saw, it runs almost $300 but cant cut stone up to 3″ deep or so.
Dang, your all over the place, why not just cut out the parts where you mess up, give us what we came here for, in the end you showed nothing really, you didant do one whole piece that we can see how you measured and added it especially on the corners, besides complaining about the cheap ass saw, this was not much help. I hope my comment does not come off too rude but is here to point you in the right direction as a biewer
First of all I love the way you explain the process and the materials, keep it up. Now my first question will be: I recently received a quote for a 190sqt wall (stone wall), but I required not to be with a frame because I don’t have the space, so it will be cement board on the wall and the the stone. Could I do that? or do I really need a frame to support the weight of the stone if my walls already have studs. Thank you
Thank you for posting this article. I’m about to install ledger panels myself, but I have a question if I may. The ledger stone ill be using is marble, it has a smooth finish and the size and thickness of each tile in the panel is different. Being that its a smooth finish, should I avoid angle cuts and just do straight cuts or would angle cuts look better? One more thing, my fireplace is placed in the corner of the family room. So the small side walls are outward not straight back, like a 60 degree outward angle if that makes sense. Would you suggest the use of an angle measuring tool to measure the angle cut.
First off, I really like and appreciate the work you put into these articles, guys. They help give me confidence and support my own projects. Secondly – Go and rent the saw and mitre the joint. Yes, it’s three time the cuts, but the saw is designed to do the work and the results are so much better. My brother and i did his gas fireplace in a day. I have one of those small saws and they’re not designed for this material….just sayin’.
hey Jeff, big fan here. perusal your articles are educational and entertaining. I have two questions: 1) in a nutshell why is floating method better then cement board method? 2) there are so many mortar and thin set mixes out there, how do i know which to use for each particular setting material? i.e. which is the best mortart and thin set for ceramic/porcelain…and so on for marble/granite/ledger panels/veener/ etc..
Are those just regular drywall screws ? I am building a recording studio and have 2″ thick walls, adding the cement board, I need 3-1/2″ screws. The cement board screws max out at 2-1/4″, what other type of screws can I use ? Installing this tomorrow night and just ran into the issue today I cant get the right kind of screws that are long enough
OMG. Shame on this guy. Viewers of this article. ALWAYS wear safety glasses when using any type of motorized saw and NEVER place your fingers that close to a moving saw blade. They make tools for pushing the product through the saw blade and out the other side for under $5.00. Save your eye sight, fingers and a trip to the E.R. and think safety first.
Jeff, I am about to add similar stone to my floor to ceiling fireplace (14ft) so I am looking at about a half tonne of rock. Can the cement board carry the load ok or should I use plywood? I noticed the screw spacing on the cement board in the article seems to be over 12 inches, I was looking at doing 8 inches if I go with cement board to secure it. Any recommendations? Thank you for your articles.
I like this article. Now that I watched it, seems like maybe one more thing a person can do to prepare to apply the stone is to layout all of the stone on the floor, in the position it will eventually be installed on the wall. This way, if there are any imperfections, they can be identified and replaced before mixing and applying the adhesive.
Those little saws are ok maybe for a bathroom tile job or a backsplash. I don’t recommend you wasting your time with them to cut real stone. Either rent a good saw, or maybe borrow one from a friend. For one, they usually come with crappy quality blades. So right off the bat you will need to buy a better blade. They tend to wobble a small amount which while you might not notice it,, it will produce chipping on certain materials. Plus you have the added annoyance of water being sprayed on you while you cut and having to wash out the stone aggregate that accumulates in that resoviour. I bought one a few years ago for a bathroom with regular ceramic tile. It did ok on that. But it will chip porcelain. Plus the guard bracket is wider than the curf of the saw which made cutting tiles 24″ a real pain.
I have to believe the homeowner was too cheap to want him to do it correctly with the 45’s…like most folks, they want a magazine look and only want to spend $500…that is not reality. I never understand the people who think they are fooling people who go into their home and they used cheap products, rushed work and they think they are clever. I look at that house, the floor is ugly, the faux barnwood wall is terrible, there are about 6 different colors going on, none of them pick up the natural stone colors…i walk in to that house and that is a focal point and I immediately think, “fake stone wall” by fake I mean, that is a facade, not solid/thick stone pieces.
and i do use big hand saws i cut actually and in ways a chain saw artist would on alot of masonry materials a good 4 inch grinder with a 4″-6″ drycut masonary wheel is easy and faster but you have to have some skills and good safety knowledge of how your work tools just because you finish high school and went to college or drop out doesn’t mean you have understand on being a craftsman i didn’t even see you use a tape measure level or maybe something like a layout that says it all right there or but then what do i know
Red brick fireplace owner here. Well, I planted the seed by showing the wife. How long it takes to germinate is yet to be seen. But she will be sitting in the livingroom one day and will say “So, do you remember how they changed the fireplace in that article”. And we’ll be off to the races. My guess is sometime after vacation next year. We (meaning I) just put in a hardwood floor in the livingroom and we’re both loving it. We’re (meaning I) will be putting up a pergola on the patio next spring (I’m looking forward to that). So I’m guessing next summer or fall this will come up again. Lucky for me my fireplace does not go floor to ceiling. But it is 14 feet long.
As a homeowner that has experienced this- that mortar dust that blew out of the bag and landed on the deck becomes hard and not removable. You are working with water so even if it does not rain, the water you are working with splashes on the ground and makes a paste with the mortar dust. By the end of the day it is hard and cannot be removed without damaging the surface underneath. Why not just work on the grass or on a tarp? I would want to sue you for that. Please people, DONT GET MORTAR. DUST OR GROUT DUST on any surface that you care about!!!!
I have a square fireplace with tile around it. I would like to know if I can make it rectangular that way I have more space avobe for my TV and maybe add a beam or a small mantle? I will also take tile down and update it. House was built in 2005. Will this be too expensive to change opening shape of fireplace?
Thanks for being super honest with the saw commentary. I’m going to be doing a stone fireplace wall unit soon and will probably buy a saw as opposed to renting it due to the cost of renting vs buying, then maybe resell the saw for 50% off or something. I wanted to miter the corners, but that looks like that may be a problem for two reasons. You showed one with the rental saw and two, I may not even have a perfect 90 degree angle which would pose a problem. We have a brand new builder spec house and Ryan homes took a dump when it came to building it nicely. It’s a builder spec home for sure, but ain’t nothing perfect or clean. Thanks for the great article, I will remember the words of wisdom.
I’ve seen this before. Jeff is definitely good at this. I have an 8’x6’ tall putrid old red brick fireplace with a cheap gas insert the original homeowner did. Currently remodeling and getting out of here but I’m wondering if I should just prime it and do hardibacker then faux stone but trying to keep it cheap but look attractive
I was thinking of making an outdoor fireplace using this concrete board with this brick. I’m going to buy an outdoor fireplace insert for it. I live in Illinois so we get cold winters. Do you think it would hold up better with a structure of pressure treated 2x4s or steel 2x4s? Also would I need to put it on a small concrete slab or would level ground be ok?
Like you said this website is for the diy-ers so i think it would be easier and nicer to: cut the stone to the shortest instead of the middle one, so you wont have to put small pieces at the edge, and would look neat and clean. @9:20 You said use the cement board to get most adhesion, so i guess you were trying to do it the “right way”. That being said: Thats the throwel pattern you want to do @14:30 And i would start from the left so the stones/tiles just sit on top of each other and wont have to squeeze them in @18:40 I dont have a lot of experience in this kind of work, these are just suggestions that hopefully would help DIY-ers.
You could probably make a jig to cut a 45* angle but I bought a 14 inch cut off saw from Harbor Freight and used a 25% off coupon. You get the coupons all the time if you sign up for emails. I had my wife use another 25% coupon to buy a 14 inch diamond blade. Total for both was like $125 before tax. I just used stuff I had sitting around to set the saw up high so I wouldn’t have to stoop over and rigged my garden hose up to the side of it. It has a fire hose type sprayer with the lever. I used zip ties to hold the hose and nozzle in place . I could then mark the piece, set it on the table, grab the handle and turn it on because it would jerk a little when I engaged the blade, line my piece up while holding the saw handle and just reach over and flip the garden hose lever. Worked like a charm with ZERO dust. I had the nozzle on spray and you just need enough to wet the blade and piece you’re cutting. I cut about 150 linear feet of concrete paver block from Lowe’s and feel like I could easily cut that much more with the same blade. The trick just seems to be to go slow and steady and not try to zip through it like you’re cutting wood. I also put a pallet in front of the saw to stand on to keep my shoes dry. The saw has a blade guard that catches most of the water to direct it downwards and not on you.
Just came across this article as I have the same model of fireplace and am in Ottawa. I am currently remodelling it and am wondering if the trim and mantle around the opening and the vent are to code? I know there needs to be several inches of clearance to combustible materials but is that negated because the golden trim that frames the opening protrudes outward and the mdf/wood trim would technically be behind it? Thanks, I appreciate any help here.
We like the look of the Rock Ridge Yukon Stack. It is pieces of stone glued to a thick wire backing. The stone pieces have different sizes and shapes. We would put it on a fireplace. Do you have suggestions on how to cut the it at the corners. Is there some way to make the cut edges look more natural?
I overlaid my red brick fireplace with ledger stone, Menards guys in tile dept and contractor desk told me I couldn’t lay the stone directly over brick. They said to use the cement board underlayment but this would need to be fastened into the brick. Think about it, if I did this I would have to depend on the fasteners to hold up the stone which all told weighs about 800 lbs over the entire area. So, I installed the stone directly to the brick after testing adherence. I skim coated the stone which the gentlemen here did not do, and I installed the best heavy pre-mix adhesive sold at Menards and troweled the mortar w/ heavy coating on the brick that also filled the old mortar joints. Make sure you don’t over apply the adhesive because the stone will want to slide down when installing from top down. Cut some 1×2’s and use these to prop up the stone so it doesn’t slid. The process takes awhile because you’ll want to wait for the stone to set before layering too many stones on top of each other from top down below the mantle. Above the mantle, you don’t have to wait because the weight will bear on the mantle but I would install a thin bond breaker on the mantle like folded wax paper which gives you a cleaner look. Bottom line, you can bond directly to the existing red brick flat surface without using cement board. The only problem you will have is removing it later on if you want to change it, it will have to be chipped off with chisel and hammer and ground.
I did an entire exterior portico using real stone, and rented a wet saw about that size of your yellow one.. It was red, and manufactured by a Swedish company. Cut like butter. I like your idea of cutting on a 45 degree, but would have investigated just renting a quality saw rather than abandoning your technique.
whats up jeff, awesome website, ive been subscribed for a while…youre a wealth of knowledge. i have a question– i want to use a manufactured stone veneer for my wood stove surround. there is clay tile there now. can i go right on top of that or do i have to take it down and use cement board? thanks for your time
Quote from Jeff: “Read the manufacturer’s instructions” and then proceeds to mix mortar without following the directions! And don’t follow how he places the stone – back butter. Super important to ensure total bond with the mortar. Jeff, dude – love your articles typically, but this one is lacking. When I did our stacked stone, I didn’t take either of the two chances you took and it’s held up very well.
3 years late to the article, but, tip for not having to deal with the “you pissed your pants”, look after using a wet saw, use much less water in the machine just enough so the blade can carry the water up into the guard, guard kept low to allow the water to drop gently down onto the tile etc whilst cutting! (But enough to keep the blade cool)
Agree with you comment at 20.01min .. 😂😂 Jeff I have seen many of your articles .. they have helped me tremendously in my DIY home Reno’s .. it is awesome how detailed you go. One of your bathroom room pan installation article instructing to peel the protective plastic covering at the drain hole was very impressive.
We are getting ready to install the same type of ledger stone around our fireplace. Ours will be a very small project. Is there a good premixed cement that you would recommend or should we go with the type you have to mix? Also what brand of powder mix did you use in this article? Thank again for your articles.
What he is using here is Hardi-Backer Board. It’s a good product, but just difficult to cut. A really good alternative is Wonderboard. Wonderboard is a lightweight concrete backer board what essentially cuts like sheetrock. Simply score the nylon mesh on one side and break like you would sheetrock. Then cut along the bend on the other side and it breaks cleanly. An additional measure of security for vertical installations is so lightly skim coat the entire surface where the stone/tile is going to be installed. This will insure a solid bond when setting the stone/tile.
I asked a contractor to estimate a stone (floor to ceiling) fireplace installation and he said he would just do the mesh/mortar right over the drywall. This article is the only experience I have to compare anything to — can anyone let me know why it’s a bad idea? I know Jeff says that it will bond better to cement fiber board
hi Jeff, I’m currently designing a house in CAD and I’m wondering how to frame the wall which will have a stone fireplace in it. It will be a full two story wall. The fireplace and then a faux stone fireplace structure (continuation) all the way to the top. Do I just frame normally and then leave a hole in the top to stick a pipe out?
Love your articles! Finally got around to subscribing! I’ve got 2 questions: #1) I’m doing a focal wall and on the outside corner it meets another wall that I’m going to leave as painted drywall. How do you finish off that corner/edge where it meets the drywall? Piece of trim maybe (Baseboards are all craftsman style 1 x4, FYI)? Or just leave an exposed stone edge? #2) Anything wrong with putting 1/4 Cement backer board over existing 1/2 drywall as long as the screws are long enough to go into studs?
Hi Jeff, last year you got me started on updating my 2009 home. I love your articles!!! Currently wanting to put same type of stone on my bedroom wall 12Lx8Hft painted drywall. How thick backer board I should apply over wall like that before applying stone? 1/2 or 1/4 is enough? I would very much appreciate your help with that!!!
I like your article. I’m about to install AirStone from Lowe’s and I was wondering if Type n mortar mix, will adhere okay it’s a very light man-made Stone and I use to work for a stucco Stone company and the boss would always add some lime or keratex to the mix to adhere better. I’m using Durock brand cement board for the backing so I know that we’ll be okay. I thought about using a 3/8 mortar joint and grouting later. I don’t know if you’ve ever had any experience with spreading it out in such a manner. I think it would look great if it would work because I know the technique have using a grout bag and brushing it out, your input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Did the same thing with stone after building out my fireplace from the wall. Whats the best way to get the stone to stick/stay in place on the underside (like a small ceiling) to keep them from simply falling down? I’m using a stretcher jack and plywood now but I can only do 1 piece at a time to ensure a proper fit.
did you plan out the other corner with cuts before you got the mud started and placing stone? Or did you just place the stone and remeasure the sizes of corner cuts you’d need once you got to the other side? Also, how did you make the cut around the wood corners, they look almost rounded. Would love to see your technique.
You asked your viewers to pass along suggestions for projects, if we have any. Might I suggest a article on installing a wood buring fireplace insert with a top vent (assuming a masonary firebox is already in place), and also the making and installation of the fireplace surround. In other words, could you do a article of a fireplace insert and surround like the one in this article (assuming that the one in this article is wood burning). Enjoy your articles; good presentation; and easy to listen to. Pass along my kudos to your camera person. He/she deserves a raise 😉
What if you have the corner pieces? seems like making the different stagger lines would be impossible because you would have to have a flat to flat and I’m not sure how that would look or even if it would work. Also, would there be any issue with going straight over brick? Adding cement board would make our big fireplace even bigger and make the opening even smaller. Great article by the way, it’s like having your best friend help you!