Brass screws are known for their aesthetic appeal and corrosion resistance, making them a viable option for certain outdoor projects. They can be purchased in various types, including stainless steel, galvanized, and decking screws. Galvanized screws are suitable for untreated siding and shadow fences, as they resist rust and degrade the look and structural integrity.
Stainless steel screws are generally the best outdoor wood screw, but some cheaper and more expensive options also offer corrosion resistance. Zinc wood screws are more prone to rust unless coated or galvanized, with different grades available. Yellow zinc reduces corrosion, making them more resistant to rust.
There are several options for outdoor use screws, including deck screws, coated screws, silicon bronze, and stainless steel. These screws are anti-corrosive and water-resistant, making them ideal for exterior use. Brass screws are typically more aesthetically pleasing due to their softer tan coloring that works well with wood. They are often used for building furniture or installing doors, but they can break easily like stainless screws.
Galvanized screws are ideal for environments exposed to weather elements, such as outdoor decking and fences. They are composed mostly of bronze and a small amount of silicon, and can withstand constant exposure to salt water. However, electro-galvanized screws (also called clear-zinc coated) are not recommended for exterior applications as they will corrode quickly in contact.
In conclusion, brass screws are a popular choice for outdoor projects due to their aesthetic appeal and corrosion resistance. While not as durable as stainless steel screws, they are still a viable option for certain outdoor projects.
📹 6 TYPES OF SCREWS Every DIYer Needs To Have! (Plus Which Screws NOT TO BUY!)
(Please Note: These are Amazon affiliate links. When you shop through these links, we receive a small commission at NO EXTRA …
What type of screw is best for outdoor use?
Outdoor screw options include deck screws, coated screws, silicon bronze and stainless steel, hot-dipped galvanized fasteners, Phillips head or star drive screws, and hot dip nails. Deck screws and coated screws are popular due to their rust resistance and corrosion protection. Silicon bronze and stainless steel are excellent choices for pressure-treated wood. Hot-dipped galvanized fasteners offer superior rust resistance, but they are typically only available for nails. Phillips head or star drive screws are strong enough for pressure-treated lumber.
Can brass screws be used outside?
Brass screws, known for their golden color, are an alloy of copper and zinc with excellent corrosion resistance, particularly in water-based environments. They are ideal for decorative projects and electrical conductivity. Silicon bronze screws, an alloy of copper, silicon, and other elements, are stronger but more expensive than brass. They are commonly used in boat building due to constant water exposure.
Aluminum screws, lightweight yet strong, resist corrosion through a protective oxide layer, making them suitable for projects requiring weight and in environments with galvanic corrosion risk when paired with other metals.
Will brass plated screws rust?
Brass and stainless-steel screws are two types of screws. Brass is a nonmagnetic, nonmagnetic metal with a gold finish and is corrosion-resistant, making it suitable for high-temperature applications. It can survive high temperatures, is fire-resistant, and is a great conductor of thermal and electrical energy. It is also machinable, making it suitable for small and precise screw applications.
Stainless-steel screws, on the other hand, have a different finish and are more resistant to acids, making them suitable for various industry-specific applications. They are sterile, easy to clean, and can withstand harsh conditions in marine environments. Kozak Micro Adjusters offers high-quality custom brass adjustment screws that cater to project needs and specifications. Both types of screws are known for their precision and performance, making them ideal for various industries.
What kind of screws won’t rust outside?
Stainless steel screws are a popular choice for rust-resistant fasteners due to their unique properties that allow them to withstand harsh outdoor elements. These screws are solid stainless, unlike other options that have a stainless coating on top of a different material. There are two types of stainless steel screws: 410 stainless (which includes some carbon steel for strength and magnetic properties) and 18-8 (which includes all 300 series of stainless and is non-magnetic). These screws are used in many outdoor projects due to their rust-proof properties and the versatility they can accommodate in various jobs.
What 2 types of screws are used for outside or exterior use?
Outdoor screws are essential for projects that require durability and resistance to corrosion. Stainless steel screws are the most suitable type, as ordinary steel is not as resistant to corrosion. Silicon bronze screws, commonly used in the marine industry, are also suitable for outdoor use. Decking screws are another option.
Choosing the right type of outdoor screws is crucial for avoiding potential issues later on. Stainless steel screws are more expensive but are necessary for outdoor projects, as they are more resistant to corrosion. Other types of screws, such as decking screws, are also suitable for outdoor use.
In summary, choosing the right type of outdoor screws is essential for ensuring the longevity and longevity of your project.
Does brass corrode outside?
Brass is a durable metal made from copper and zinc, suitable for outdoor and landscape lighting. Its durability and longevity make it an excellent choice for coastal environments. However, brass fixtures can “patina” or turn darker over time due to exposure to the elements, but they won’t corrode. Copper, on the other hand, is a more affordable option for outdoor lighting, but it may also “patina” over time. As copper reserves deplete, prices are rising, making it a potential target for theft.
Maxim Lighting’s Vivex outdoor lighting material is a superior alternative to polyurethane resin. It is a unique synthetic composition of ground marble powder for strength and latex composite for durability, bonded together with an ATP adhesive. This adhesive has been tested to temperatures exceeding 130°F and as low as -20°F, making it fire-resistant and biodegradable. Vivex is ideal for applications near the coast, as it maintains its look and durability. Overall, brass and copper are excellent choices for outdoor lighting.
Is brass screw better than stainless steel?
Brass fittings are slightly cheaper than stainless steel fittings and are ideal for low-budget applications requiring good corrosion resistance but lower pressure. They offer reasonable strength, toughness, good corrosion resistance, ductility, and a significant thermal expansion coefficient at temperatures up to 400°F. Brass is also better for welding due to its chemical composition, but stainless steel is superior in saltwater environments. Brass is suitable for various applications, including hydraulic hose fittings, compact brass fittings, compression brass fittings, and custom brass fittings.
Like stainless steel, brass fittings regulate liquids or gases within tubes and hoses. It is malleable, durable, versatile, corrosion-resistant, and can withstand moderately high temperatures. For more information on fitting materials, visit the specialty alloy composition and applications page.
How long will brass last outdoors?
Brass fixtures, made from a mixture of copper and zinc, are durable and long-lasting metals. They can withstand various environments and have extended warranties. Brass will naturally patina when exposed to elements, but it won’t corrode. Although more expensive, brass is the best quality and most durable metal. Copper fixtures, on the other hand, are a high-quality option due to their excellent thermal conductivity, strength, and resistance to corrosion. Both metals will patina when exposed to outdoor elements. Both options are suitable for landscape lighting systems.
How long does brass last outside?
Brass is an excellent metal for outdoor applications due to its endurance, lasting over 1, 000 years in the right conditions. To achieve an aged look, commercially available solutions can be applied, such as a mixture of 50 white vinegar and 50 salt water. Other architectural building materials like copper and bronze can also be used to improve corrosion-proof projects, especially for those looking to spend less. By exploring these options, you can create a corrosion-proof project that is both stylish and durable.
What are the disadvantages of brass screws?
Brass fasteners are effective fasteners due to their strength from copper and zinc, making them resistant to corrosion and conductive to electricity. However, they are softer and have limited load-bearing capabilities. They are popular for decorative items like furniture. Aluminum fasteners are lightweight and corrosion-resistant, but not as strong as brass. However, they are useful for light-load fastening in environments where other materials struggle with corrosion, such as the maritime industry.
Is brass good for exterior?
Copper and brass are durable, corrosion-resistant metals suitable for outdoor environments. They form a patina and grow darker after exposure, making them attractive for furnishings and property additions. Stainless steel, often containing chromium, has a chromium oxide layer to protect it from corrosion. Both materials are strong and durable, making them suitable for long-term outdoor use.
📹 What NOBODY Will Tell You About SCREWS & FASTENERS
We tell the #verycoolgang what nobody else will tell you about screws & fasteners. What if I told you every thing you’ve ever …
I completely agree regarding deck screws, and I keep numerous lengths, but all are coated whether I’m using for interior or exterior. One that is not on your list is an Everbilt #8 pan head, but it’s not your typical Panhead, because the head is wide. Almost squished flat. The picture on the box shows the screw holding up expanded metal or mesh wire. This is a great screw because the number eight size is excellent to accommodate most mounting holes and the extra wide head provides a great clamping surface.
I’ve switched almost entirely to spax screws; they have all the types you listed, plus powerlags, which I like a lot. Pocket screws and a pocket hole jig are worth keeping around too. Something I like to do when buying screws is always buy more than I need, even if I only need a few. It lets me build up an inventory for future projects.
I agree, I use to use sheetrock screws for everything because for the most part they were the only thing available, the short ones are not hard to drive but the long ones are a bear. so I have transitioned to deck screws with torx heads. I was pleased to see your inclusion of 1″ sheetrock screws, they are hard to find but I always keep at least a few pound of them on hand. I agree too with keeping the left over hardware from what ever projects I have. the only exception to that fasteners that come with curtain rods etc. they are cheap and always cause more problems than they solve. so I replace them before I even begin the project. I have even painted the heads of some screws when they needed to be colored because you could see them when the project was done. It is crazy how many different fasteners I have. eventually I will use them all, having a selection of screws has saved me 100’s of hours and frustration.
Great list! If I had to add a 6th screw, it would be cabinet screws, the type with a washer-shaped head. I keep a variety of lengths on hand. They are great when you need a lot of holding power on the top surface and they look more attractive and “finished” than philips head screws with their brass color and star bit.
I’m from Germany, so I naturally use Spax with Torx head for everything that I may need to unscrew again (Philips is wearing out too fast) or the black drywall screws shown in your article for things I’ll never need to unscrew again and when it has to be cheap diy stuff, since Spax are a bit on the expensive side. For everything on the outside or in wet conditions (century old stone walls, …) I use stainless steel. I once had to demolish a wooden balkony and the builder used normal or coated screws. Almost all of them broke while unscrewing cause of corrosion. A few more years and the balkony could have collapes due to these wrong screws.
This was an excellent article and you listed everything I like to keep in my fastner shelf. Glad you shared the jar tip for collecting misc stuff. That big jar has saved my tail many a time. Truly appreciate you and your website. Forgot to mention: We’ve got a Habitat For Humanity Store. Love wandering around and have found fasteners of all types pretty reasonable as well as stuff that will come in handy.
Those self-drilling screws saved me a LOT of time when I was doing commercial security camera installations. They made mounting the cameras to the walls of metal clad buildings super fast and easy. The hex head ones in 1/4 inch are the best. You can use a bolt driver bit in the drill to put them in and to tighten or loosen them you can just use a multibit screwdriver with no bit in it.
Great list. I think of the thousands of fasteners I have and these are the most common I use in most projects. May I offer another suggestion for those installation fasteners that come with the things you buy. Get a compartmentalized storage container and sort them by size. This way when you do need a random fastener you save a bunch of time not having to dig though an assorted jar.
Drywall screws are cheap and easy to use, but I only use them if I will never, ever, ever expect to have to remove them. That’s because they are almost always Phillips (cross) drive and the drive slots are notoriously easy to strip out. My other rule is that I never re-use a drywall screw, it’s just not worth the hassle. There are 1″ coarse thread, torx drive wood screws on the market now, and these have become my go-to for small jigs and projects or thin materials other than drywall. Also I recommend torx or square drive on the deck screws for the same reasons, and don’t worry, there’s usually a cheap but appropriate drive bit in the box!
One screw I can not do without is the self-tapping lathe screws. They’re great for anything with a keyhole. They also will drill through sheet metal. They have a nice big, flat underside (washer-head), so you often don’t need a washer if you want better surface hold. I use (and re-use) them all the time.
GRK R4 screws are my standard for anything I build with framing lumber. They’re Torx but I think the shortest they make is 2″, so they’ll poke through smaller things made of 2 layers of 1-by. Grip Rite makes 8×1-1/4″ construction screws with the same T25 drive but they don’t self-drill as well as the R4s. For smaller hobby projects it’s almost impossible to find anything decent since most of the industry (and more importantly big retailers) are still under the hopeless delusion that the Philips drive is useful for anything at all.
I would have added construction screws. Strongest screws available for the diameter size. For when you really don’t want a failure, such as stair hand rails or grab bars. Maybe next a article explaining all the washer? Keep the articles coming! I do maintenance and need to know a lot about a lot and quality, experienced knowledge is gold.
Well, for years now I have just collected the screws from stuff I chucked out. So now, I hardly ever buy any screws. I just use whatever is on hand. The other day I repaired the broken shell of my car key with lamp soot & superglue to reform the missing bits of the shell, then replaced the lost screw with an appropriate sized one from my collection of electronics screws to hold the shell onto the key body & blade. I didn’t even have to drill out & tap the hole, just select the right size. So, this strategy has kept me supplied for repairing all manner of things around the yard, shed, house & to fix appliances & AV & computer related gear as well.
I tend to agree with your list. However I seem to have acquired dozens of “favorite” screws, not to mention a wide selection of SAE and Metric machine screws but that is another topic. Glad you gave drywall screws some love, I find them quite handy in a lot of situations. I’ve become a GRK fanboy over the years. Another plus for screws vs nails for us geezer DIYers is screws are easier on the hand and wrist then nails. You can date my outdoor projects by the type of fastener I used. The oldest are galvi nails, then galvi deck screws, then Square drive Robertson ( some like them I hate them, then over the last half decade or so GRK Torx.
I have an old power tool bag completely filled with all sorts of mostly screws and some anchors, and a few other random hardware. I rummage through that bag so often and I usually find something that will work. Of course I still keep boxes of these fasteners you mention here, but yes, save everything. It’ll save you so many trips to Ace.
This one is probably not a DIY but is extremely handy IMHO. The 12/24 metal self drilling deck screw for metal decks. Has a long self drilling tip and a fine thread for metal. I used to mount electrical boxes to 1/4″ angle or website or square tubing with these. There great. Occasionally have to predrill for them depending on the brand . Some brands have a better”bit” than others. Gread vid
I work on cabinets and use the trim screws quite a bit. I particularly like the GRK brand because of the counter clockwise threads towards the head that help join pieces better. I use them a lot as reinforcements between cabinet boxes. The best thing I’ve discovered is to glue in 3/16″ dowels to fill in the hole instead of wood filler when you sink them deep. It leaves a clean finish.
I’m hearing promotion of deck screws, construction screws, lag screws, & have personal experience using cabinet screws when I did some built in shelving, attached to studs. I’m not only wondering about the difference, especially regarding strength, & when to best use each, but also wondering about these gazillion projects I see everywhere that secure by screws to the construction studs of homes/ sheds. For my lumber rack, I decided against that, & I’m adding a secondary stud. I’d like to get answers/ input regarding this.
0:50 “avoid buying screws with strange head patterns” as you show a Robertson screw, also known as a square screw. I find these to work very well as they rarely strip and almost as easy to set the bit in the screw as a Philips head. This is my 2nd favorite everyday bit. 1:40 Your #1 recommendation uses a Torx bit. The Torx bit is my favorite. Easiest to set, and rarely strips. But this seems contradictory to your statement above. Also, you should have reminded everyone that for outdoor projects, make sure you use a screw designed for outdoor use. Remember, this article is for beginner DIYers, so best not to assume they already know. As for myself, I don’t buy a bunch of different screws I may need later. If I need a certain type of screw that I don’t have, then I buy a buy those screws and keep the extra for later projects.
Really good info. My personal favorites don’t meet your ‘widely available’ criteria, but they are awesome. I prefer Spax screws due to their wide (now, even wider) selection of application. From #6 1/2 inch to 8 inch and beyond, construction lags. For example, their 2 inch construction lags replace 2 inch wood screws on shop projects, especially where weight might be involved.
Great article. I am slowly getting comfortable in the fastener aisle, but I am still in awe of the variety. This helps a lot. I will just add that I like to disassemble things that are broken and salvage specialty fasteners. I recently had a space heater die and instead of just chucking it I took it apart and got a tonne of metal screws, the short ones for gutters and self tapping ones. Obviously have to be careful with taking these things apart, but they can be a treasure trove.
Hey Carpenter, A useful screw for DIY is the #13 X 3″ screw. If you have an older home you likely need some door hinge work. #13 screws match door hinges holes, but little else. So, you often need 2″ or 3″ to fix up loose hinges. Also remember, you will use wood threads for wood casings and medium theads for metal frame doors. Just so you know, #13’s are hard to find. So, if you have an older home, order a small box of screws in advance, before you really need them.
Torx pattern is the key criterion to me, besides the points you said (sizes and types). It does not cause issues while fastening, and the ease and power of screwing is amazing. Regarding sizes, deck screws of 1-1/4″ are the ones I like to many applications. 2-1/2″ deck screws I use to fasten two 2×4 together.
I like your choices mostly. I do not care for Philips heads though. I do have some of those (Philips heads) around but for structural screws like in a deck say, I will look for square head or torx. I am currently looking to put up studs in a metal buildings with purlins which are hard metal and am looking for self tapping screws with maybe a hex head. What do you say wise one? Thanks again for your articles. I appreciate your experience as I am a retired engineer dabbling in hobby diy projects. All the best!
I avoid drywall screws unless drywalling. They are prone to rust, but so make sure to use them in only interior dry applications with untreated dry lumber. I keep the general construction screws over the deck screws because they are cheaper and work just as well for dry environments in untreated lumber but do have more resistance to corrosion than drywall screws.
I think it’s personal preference. My screw box is full of slightly different screws. And throw away loose fasteners! Life is too short to sift through random screws, when I could be looking through clearly labeled packages! Also, in Canada we still don’t have super great availability of the torx/6 point head screws. We get a lot of #2 Robertson (square) heads, they’re better than Phillips but I don’t think they’re quite as good as the 6 point style heads.
OK, I do agree with you when you talk about which screw to get and for what. However, I was surprised to see that most of them are Phillips style ( in my opinion the worst next to a straight slot). Maybe you work with wood a lot and that might explain it. A Phillips head looks nice as long as it is in good condition. But I could tell you stories that you most likely would not believe.
Personally, I prefer to keep 2-1/2″ deck screws instead of 2″ and 3″, as I find myself joining two 2-by’s lengthwise to make cheaper 4x4s (and other stuff) and 2-1/2″ leaves 1-1/2″ for the first board and 1″ for the second without a risk of sticking through the back and creating a scrape hazard. I also use 1-1/4 for fastening stuff to the side of 2-by’s. I like how the deck screws are rated for PT lumber, and they usually come with torx so are easy to drive. I personally don’t use drywall screws as they are not very corrosion resistant, but I am planning on getting some self-tappers to try those out. I would likely install those with an aluminum washer for cathodic protection when used outside as self tappers are usually zinc plated and are not super corrosion resistant. I also might someday test a bunch of screws, and I might post results online if I feel up to it. Just testing hardness (force curve for cutting with boltcutters and a bending test), strength (pullout and shear), toughness (impact test), corrosion resistance (NaCl and ACQ), and maybe driving torque. I probably won’t as one of the words that most accurately describes me is lazy. Sorry for wasting your time, Jaiden P.S. torx is key.
I use drywall screws quite often for interior projects and they work great. The only time I have ever had a problem is when I purchased very inexpensive drywall screws. The usually come in a small variety pack and are really cheap in price. The head would snap under pressure. Actually, I had problems with any cheaply priced screws like button head, truss head screws too. The metal was so soft that when you tried to snug them down, the Phillip’s head would strip out so easily. I guess the trick is to stay away from cheaply priced off brand screws. Like the old saying, if it looks too good to be true, it probably is. If they’re offering a pack of 500 screws for $2.00, if might be better to pass them up. Of course, if you do get them and the screws are junk, you’re only out of a couple bucks but it might cost you a lot more time to fix/repair your project trying to get the broken screw out.
Dear Honest Carpenter, At the 01:06 mark in the article, there are two hinges displayed that appear to be identical to the hinges for my bathroom medicine cabinet. Each hinge has two screws: one that secures the hinge to the wall, and the other that adjusts the distance of the hinge away from the wall. I have an issue where the screw that secures the hinge to the wall has stripped and will not hold the cabinet door in place. What specific kind of screw would you recommend to replace it, please? Thank you!
@2:30 – that’s the wrong screw for that application. It’s threaded all the way to the head so it won’t pull the parts together (called “thread-bound”). you need a smooth shank under the head for at leas the thickness of the board in contact with the head for screwing wood, or you need to pre-drill an oversize hole. Drywall screws are threaded full length because the threads won’t bite in the gypsum so it doesn’t matter.
There is one thing I hate when buying construction or decking screws is that if the thread goes all the way up to the head then you can not pull a deck board snug unless the head sinks into the wood. If you have a deck screw 2 1/2 inch and 11/4 has tread and the rest is bare it will suck the two tightly and not sink into the deck board and ruin it.
I agree with you on the must haves but I wouldn’t worry about the heads so much, square, hex, spline what ever just dont muck around with blade. I would say the screw to never use is the gold finished would screw, I think they are just chromate plated, they rust and the heads invariable break off, they are junk.
Couple of things. If presented with a ‘Philips’ screw, check the head carefully – if it has a faint ‘X’ stamped on its actually ‘Pozidrive’ and is not really interchangeable with Philips, unless you want to destroy the screw head and stop anyone from removing the screw without an oxy torch. Some vendors will sell Pozidrive screws, but not have the bits in stock (looking at you Aldi). Philips heads have the slots slightly offset, and were designed to cam out – Henry Ford didn’t want his customers to repair their own vehicles and Philps was one of his engineers. With drywall screws, test them in an offcut to see if the head snaps off – if they do, take them back, there are better ones that are properly heat treated, like in the article. Use a screw lubricant like candle wax, ‘chap stick’ or a commercial product – NEVER EVER USE SOAP, unless you want the job to fall apart in a few years – it attacks any coating and attracts moisture to rust out the screws, and the rust will enlarge the screw hole – DAMHIK.
Nails used to come in 50lb boxes, now they come in packs of 3. Hardware stores had revolving bins full of nails with a scale, a little gardening “rake” to loosen them up, and paper bags so you could buy what you want – priced by the pound. I never saw anyone buy less than a heaping handfull. It’s hard to even find nails anymore, unless they are for a nail gun. With the insane prices on screws and nails, I buy anything I can find, if the price is right. I found 3 – 50# boxes of 16d galv nails for $5 ea. I bought all three. If I can find a 5# box of something for a buck or two – I buy every time SOP. For the money, I will find a place to store them under a work bench or something. $29 for 5# of deck screws in insane. I recently purchased 3 ea. – 25# boxes of the same thing (Hillman T25 epoxy 2 1/2″ and 3″) for $35.98 a box out the door.
I don’t use drywall screws anymore because I hate Phillips head screws. They always skip and strip when driving them. I like T25 head screws and a lot of T25 construction and deck screws have countersink heads as well as the self predrilling tip. Square head screws are also very underrated. They can handle a lot of torque without stripping.
I bought a box 5-lb 1-5/8 think it will handle majority of my need. And it does. One area where it fell short is try to drive 3/4″ on to another 3/4″. To prevent poking out, 1-1/4 comes in very handy. I used to buy 1 box of every size (1-lb) available. What I ended up using the most are the 1-1/4 and 1-5/8. If push comes to shove, one can always grind off the pointy tip of the screw to prevent poking out with some odd size thickness or countersink being too deep (incidentally).
The best thing I ever did when it comes to my stock of screws (and nuts and bolts) of many types is to get inexpensive compartmentalized plastic storage “organizer” cases to organize them in. That turns a jumbled up pile of screws that might or might not have what you need into an actual usable inventory of parts. Harbor Freight has inexpensive 94458 24-compartment organizers with removable dividers, which I prefer over fancier units with individually-closing compartments, or sets of drawers, because the HF organizers are cheap enough that you don’t mind buying several, and the transparent lid lets you review the entire contents at a glance. You might keep separate retail bulk boxes of your main go-to screws like the ones in this article, but it’s very useful to have a handful each of many different kinds of screws, such as machine screws and nuts, and also the #4, #6, #8 “sheet metal” screws in various lengths for attaching hardware to wood., and these you can keep usefully ready in a plastic organizer case like I mentioned. Another probably-obvious tip: When a project arises that would go better with a particular size/length of screw, I always buy double what I need immediately, especially if that means I can buy a bulk package rather than indvidiuals. Those additional screws go into the organizer. The first project already proved those screws desirable, so they are likely candidates for a future job.
Strong disagreement with the idea that you shouldn’t buy pan-head screws! Pan-head screws are the standard head style in non-countersunk applications, like dealing with sheet metal or thin materials, or where countersinking is annoying, impractical, or unnecessary (again, often with metal), and are easier to deal with than finish washers. Sometimes they’re categorized as round-head, but in truth pan head screws have a flatter top and replaced round-head screws decades ago. At 0:48, you say, “Avoid buying screws with strange head patterns, like pan heads, truss heads, or oval heads.” Indeed, at 4:26 for your 6th option, you show pan-head gutter screws.
What a valuable article. Will stock up on smaller deck screws and deck screws are easy/smooth to use. I rebuilt the roof of my metal garden shed and used the self driving screws for the full job. Went from being completely collapsed to a strong, straight roof using the existing materials. Wish I had made a article because I could not find anything on the internet. Maybe some day you can show us how to properly use screws on plaster walls. Many thanks…again!!
I can ABSOLUTELY appreciate your suggestion of keeping the drive style simple, and not introducing other specialty heads when possible… But I would certainly want to add a GRX R4 Multi-purpose T-25 Star Drive screws to your list. The star drive is less prone to slippage/strippage, especially when driven with a drill rather than an impact. Their fine points help the screw stay where you want it, and the Fast Bite Tip provides a fast start. Bonus – if you are one to reuse fasteners, the Star Drive holds up much better to being run in and run out. Just my two cents
Thanks for this article! I always struggle to figure out the perfect combination of fasteners to keep on hand. My only suggestion is to replace the deck screws with something that is rated for structural applications. Deck screws are really meant for holding on decking, not exactly structural. I love GRK R4 screws instead! Structural rated, interior or exterior so you can use them for anything and you know you’re good! A little more expensive, but the added versatility makes them worth it IMO.
As for unusual heads on screws, I find I prefer Torx or Robertson (square drive) screws. Slotted screws are the worst for cam-out; Phillips are almost as bad. Anywhere that appearance matters, a Torx or Robertson that won’t cam-out on me and leave a nasty gouge is much preferable. The added torque of an impact driver only exacerbates the problems with slot or Phillips.
I love this, and I agree whole heartedly! I find the 3″ desk screw a bit pricier than the 3″ version of the grey coated version. I keep the grey ones in 1″, 2″, 2.5″ and 3″ sizes for a majority of projects. They’re also GREAT for exterior stuff and I find they’re up to the task of being disassembled and reused from time to time. That said, the desk screw is good for its intended purpose and I do have some.
I like your list. Just have one suggestion. I prefer Deckmate rather than Deck Plus because the Deckmates are are only threaded on half of the 3″ screw. This lets the screw pull the boards together tight (when using 2x’s). The Deck Plus screws are threaded for 2″, so they tend to start sinking the screw head into the wood before the two pieces pull tight together.
Hey Ethan. I watched a article a couple weeks ago, and learned something cool. It seems obvious, but I’m self taught, so I’m never surprised to learn something simple. I have always wondered why there was a space at the top of the threading on some screws. I assumed it was for clear out of dust, but this article corrected me. He explained, and showed examples, why it’s there, and he says it is because you don’t want the threads to grab both pieces, but rather only the back/bottom piece. And he is right, it gives a much tighter seam…. if the thread is in the top piece, it is still holding it, but if it is only on the second piece, the top piece can slide on that screw now, and the head is able to slide it down the screw and press it right up against the second board. …. for glued seams, definitely it is better, if not gluing, Idk, still seems better there though, too. … Make sense to you? Peace
That shot from the start of the article with 3 billion different screws is literally my nightmare, I walked out of DIY stores before because it was an impossible task to pick the stuff for the job I needed finishing asap. 😀 So thanks for this quick and informative tutorial/shopping list, much appreciated!
Great article. I wouldn’t say it’s better than any of the above, but for quick+dirty shop furniture or other utility construction using 2x and larger lumber, I also like 4-inch screws. I use them sometimes to screw 2x stock into end grain. So I get 1.5-inch penetration on my 2×4 and then 2.5-inch penetration in the end grain of perpendicular 2x4s. I always pre-drill in these applications, although I like to predrill my pilot holes a tiny bit smaller than the general recommendation. It’s simply easy and convenient to sometimes screw into end-grain. It’s faster and easier than toe-nailing or toe-screwing or using pocket screws. Is it as strong? No, but if you’re framing up a countertop or a portable tool-cart for your shop, throwing together some cross-joists into end-grain is plenty strong when for many applications when you are going to have several cross-pieces with at least 2 screws per side per member. However, since screwing into end-grain doesn’t have the same holding force as screwing into face-grain or edge-grain, I like to use a longer screw when I have these on hand.
I thought everybody saved leftover screws from kits. Before I toss out an old appliance or furniture I strip it of screws, knobs, feet, and brackets that look like they may come in handy. It is surprising how many times that weird looking indescribable bracket comes in handy which I would not know where to purchase if needed. Plus it keeps it out of the landfill at least a little longer. 🛠🔩💸
I recently finished our new kitchen and your articles have been amazingly helpful! Our contingency budget got depleted, having to fix a past home-owner’s plumbing mistake. We are building up our savings a bit more, before diving into making over our bathrooms. Keep up the good work. We’ll keep perusal.
I’m so glad I found this website. It’s hard to find people on YouTube that you feel like you can trust with safety information. And I really want to learn more about Woodworking, but I don’t wanna be dumb and hurt myself because I took bad advice online. I would love to see a article on how to choose which type of fastener for which type of work? And how you can tell the difference between fasteners/what to look for when you go to the store. 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
This is a really good general purpose list! I’m a carpenter and those varieties suit most of my projects at work! I think something else to add to the list would be timberlok’s and other lag alternatives, as they’re a good alternative to traditional large-diameter lags. Another I would consider adding to the list are 1⅝” cementboard screws, as they’re great for installing gypsum board/fiberboard products and thinner plastics. The larger serrated heads do a great job gripping thinner/ more malleable materials without punching through. That being said, maybe add the whole fastener aisle from the hardware store 😂 Cheers, and thank you for this thorough and excellently illustrated guide!!
Hex heads and Torx screws should pretty much be the only screws that anyone needs. I know there are specialty things out there but it’s 2023. We should just stop making everything else. And I see homeowners use drywall screws for everything and it drives me bonkers! Ya know when drywall screws are appropriate? For drywall and that’s it. They rust and strip out. Every type of fastener should be made a torx head or hex head in my opinion. My fellow tradesmen would agree I bet.
I was only half perusal but I don’t think you mentioned torque drive pocket hole screws or cabinet hanging screws. Both of these are some of my most used screws and I worked at a fastener company for around 14 years so I had options to try, but your list is good. Other screws on your list I use all the time (trim head, wood screws) but drywall screws are junk… I don’t really keep any drywall screws around unless I’m specifically doing drywall. Gutter screws are handy, but not something I need very often, so I’d put pocket hole or cabinet hanging as a lot more useful than a few on your list.
I tend to agree you have a good basic list. I disagree with you on one thing. Do NOT just throw them in bin/jar. I used to do that but in the process I started buying what I already had on hand. I now keep them either in one of those harbor freight storage bins with multiple bins or I use plastic peanut butter jars. I have found over the years that even the boxes some of these screws come in will fall apart so I went with what I have a lot of which is clean peanut butter jars (plastic and washed) I would add one class of screw to your list, I keep Spax 2″ construction rated screws on hand when I need a good strong hold.
Personally I think drywall screws are a really bad idea on wood because they have the useless Phillips head and also brittle. Instead buy some Spax screws with Torx head, you won’t regret it! On the posidrive the good firms have the connection deeper and they really lock on. In the UK where I live the ‘go to’ screw is a 40mm posidrive, the Torx 63mm decking screw is also very useful, as is the 80mm posidrive. Ofcourse a screw needs a bit to fix it with, some bits just fit like the proverbial glove. Great article!
Spot on Ethan! As we speak, I have 1lb boxes of 3 3/4″, 3″, 2 1/2″ and 2″ deck screws on the shelf. I also keep a small supply of drywall screws and 1/2″ wood screws handy. Last summer a buddy from down the road stopped by to see if I had any 1/2″ screws. He was surprised that I had exactly what he needed on hand. I used to have a couple big buckets of odds and ends screws around, but got frustrated digging through them to find a bunch of matching ones. It’s just easier to keep those 1lb boxes around.
I disagree about keeping rhe furniture and store-bought stuff screws. Yes, they can be hard to find if they’re not normal, but I have rarely seen a screw included in one of those kits that can’t be replaced (and exceeded by far) by a normal screw. I keep about 12 types of wood screws, but that’s 2 specific screws, and a variety of washer and countersink heads.
If it weren’t for the pure COST, the ONLY construction screw I’d buy are McFeely’s Square drives. Their tensile strength is DOUBLE (or more) than ANY other brand. They are 100% GUARENTEED for LIFE! They NEVER RUST. The heads don’t “cam-out” and booger-up. Next are the “spline-drive” screws. Pricey, but good quality. AVOID LIKE THE PLAGUE Chinese made screws! They’re brittle, snap-off if you drive them too fast and the heads are so soft, they’re worthless. Mexican-made screws vary WILDLY in quality. For drywall, they’re OK, but construction screws…from the same Big Box store, I gotten a good box and a BAD box. The same is true for common nails. I have to go to the wholesale fastener store to get US made nails in Tulsa. Usually, the smallest box they have is 10 pounds. A ten pound box of US Steel Brand 16d’s is about $40-45 now. 25 pounds are about $75, but that’s a lot of nails for DIY. Today, 50 years after I spent a summer building mobile homes, I’d prefer to NEVER use a nail. Why??? Try pulling a 3 1/2″ #10 screw with your hammer, or a three foot crow-bar! Build a stud-wall with nails (even power driven nails) and build one with McFeely’s. Feel how the nailed wall flexes when you raise it up? The McFeely one WON’T!
Good article: Coming in with MY #1 as YOUR #1… 3″ deck screws… got my attention right out the gate 👍 Just a couple notes: -I personally choose 1 5/8″ deck screws over 2″ because they’re plenty long enough for fastening down up to 3/4″ sheathing, siding, subflooring, etc. to framing. -Drywall screws are perceived as brittle because we’re in the habit of using impact drivers, which can snap the heads off. Try to get in the habit of using your drill with the drag set, and a dimple bit for drywall. -I really wish I could find stainless deck or trim screws in Torx instead of square.
As a professional carpenter I agree (with a few minor variances). I like to have 3″ and 2 1/2″ deck screws, 1 5/8″ Drywall screws, 2 1/4″ Stainless trim head screws, hex head Zip screws, and a “lucky bucket” of random stainless screws on the truck at all times. There are others I keep also but these are the work horses. As far as nails go, I always have stainless trim nails in white and clay, 1 1/2″ roofing nails, 3″ galvanized framing nail clips (which I can peel a couple off for hand driving when needed) and I like to keep some 4p coated sinkers and some ring shank underlayment nails.
I always buy my screws from Screwfix or Toolstation in boxes of 200. They are so cheap its not worth buying small packs. Much larger range than you have here: 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45mm and 1.5″, 1.75″, 2″, 2.5″, 3″, 100mm and 120mm. Nearly the whole shop I know! I find my impact driver is an amazing recent addition, GET ONE! I use mainly screwdrivers that take bits and use IMPACT buts in them. Much tougher and you can change them, cheaper than a new screwdriver
Ha! Funny timing…just re-organizing fasteners in my shop (OMG…just shoot me!). Anyway, I don’t exactly disagree, but rather than “deck screws”, I keep a variety of the multipurpose GRK R4 screws on hand, from bigger 3″ down to #8 1-1/4″. Besides being a great, tough screw, they have a few features I like: They are star drive, they self tap, and they have a self countersinking feature. They seem to work a LOT better on tougher/harder woods (like aged southern yellow pine) for self drilling and self-countersinking…and without cracking it.
Well, my “basic” list starts at 3/4″, 1-1/4″, 1-5/8″, 2- 1/4″, and 3″ OR 3.5″ (when I can get the longer one, I do!) screws that have the “gold” finish. I do use the 2″ black coarse thread drywall screws in some applications, however, and I do agree that some kind of short self-tapping sheetmetal screws are essential (I use #6 x 1/2″ most commonly). Yes, all Phillips head. However, it really depends on what you do. I have literally over two hundred different sizes, types,as well as many specialized fasteners that no one else would need. The price of having a cabinet shop. I have grown to love the square drive screws – especially since going with the impact drivers of today – almost 0 stripped heads. Thanks for posting your idea.. it stands pretty well with my “go to” list..
Living 300′ from saltwater I WISH I could use drywall, etc..Anything not SS or HDG won’t last 3,2 or even1yr sometimes. Damn car seat frame in 2022 truck rusted in only 6 months. I like GRK 2″,3″, 4″, & 5 5/8″ T25 multi purpose screws for simplicity but even they don’t last in our high copper PT woods either. But i do get free oysters an clams, so I got that going for me . Those T10 trim screws are heaven sent BTW, and hold great for their size.
I stay away from 3″ deck screws for most purposes, and use 2-1/2″, because there’s no risk of blasting through when screwing together two 2″x4″s. Similar story, less likely to over-penetrate a wall with 1-1/4″ drywall screws vs. 1-5/8″. And a big thumbs-up for trim screws! More precise and MUCH stronger than a finish nail for cases where you need it.
Speaking of screws- know when it’s a better idea (I think?) to use a screw vs a nail. In my outdoor shed I had to do a small electrical repair. It involved getting to the Romex cable behind OSB walls (no insulation, just hollow exterior walls)… I had to cut/tear up the walls to get to it due to them using large nails to fasten the boards. Had they just used screws to put those facade walls up…. It would have been a clean and quick job (both taking the wall board off and putting it back on) and not a demolition project. I’m not a carpenter but in this situation is there any reason you would NOT use something like a torx deck screw or something vs nails? Even if they’re shorter (I realize you don’t want to go too deep into the studs and nick something like an electrical wire running horizontally through the studs…) But something a 1.5 inch screw or thereabout would suffice to simply hold the wall up. Even if you mounted stuff on it, weight bearing…
Screws I like after 20 years in construction. Rule #1. Torque head always wins as long as the screw still fits the application. Outdoor. The torque head deck screws. Indoor. The torque head construction screw (best wood screw imo) Hardibacker. Torque head backer screws. (Backer-on, hardi backer, etc) (no need to store these unless you are in my industry) Drywall screws (1 5/8″ only for drywall) (I hate Philips screws) Self tappers for metal. (I like hex head) Kregg screws as needed. (I hate square bit) If you are still reading, I salute you! I like the construction screws as my main screw. It has a self burrowing head and I’ve never had it split my work even without countersinking. On finer things like cabinetry I would always countersink. The heads on these screws also have more angle to burrow better. The deck screws have the same stuff going on as a construction screw, but a wider head angle and thicker shaft. Really suited to sinking into lumber outdoors. Drywall screws I only use on drywall, the head on the screw is perfect for it to sink into drywall and laying flush without breaking the paper. You don’t want a self burrowing head on drywall. Hardibacker needs a wider head for grabbing power. It also requires a self tapping head to allow the screw to burrow and not break the substrate.
I keep it even simpler. Star drive wood screws #25 Torx head. Lengths 2 1/2″, 1 3/4″, 1 1/4″ does almost everything. Throw in some pan head sheet metal screws #8s in 3/4″ and 1″. Maybe some 10s and 12s too for larger stuff. For anything heavier duty I go with lag bolts. Sold by the pound locally for few bucks in any size or length. Very strong. Basically 3 types of screws does it all. Haven’t figured out the obsession with drywall screws, they’re too thin and rust.
Since I use mostly 5/8″ to 3/4″ thick redwood fence pickets for garden projects like planter boxes and pallet style bases for planter pots, I use 8 x 1-3/4″ or 8 x 1-5/8″ exterior grade flat head Torx wood screws. I do use longer versions of the flat head Torx wood screws or exterior grade lag screws (Spax Powerlag) for attaching two 2″ thick lumber.
Yup, been doing this all my life. I came across a huge box of hex head screws on a job site. left by HVAC guys. I still have pounds of them. Great for gutters, hvac, small sheet metal projects. Pretty much every small project I do, I use 3″ construction screws. Only change over the years is switched from phillips to torx. I bought the huge $100 bucket of these 3″ screws, and still have most of them because they are reusable in most cases. DO NOT get philips 3″ screws, you’ll hate your life if you do. Spend the money on good screws, and you wont be dealing with stripped screw heads. 2″ torx for thinner woods, and 1″ philips drywall screws for light duty. 1/4 wood backing, it’s best to just get a good stapler. I rarely have a use for finish head fasteners, but have a box anyway. I redid my moms fascia around the house with Trex decking and finish screws. No more wood rot on the house. A smaller pak of 6″ torx screws for exterior door hinges and strike plates. The heads are small enough that they done protrude like bigger Phillip heads screws. No more broken door frames, and stripped screws. It’s also good to have all the varieties of pneumatic staplers and finish nailers. Small 1/2″ staples for fabric like on furniture, plastic sheeting, insulation, tarps, tar paper for roofing, etc… 2″ finish staples for wood backings, and birdhouse type small projects, etc.. Big 3″ staples for hardwood flooring, gable work, and some bigger projects. Brad nailer for trims, and delicate projects.
The issue I have with drywall screws is that normally they are threaded up to the head. This means that they aren’t very good at pulling workpieces together. I’d recommend standard wood screws in 1-1/4″, 1-1/2″, 2″, and up – and for heaven’s sake, Robertson (square) drive or Torx! Throw those stupid self-stripping Phillips drivers and fasteners in the metal recycling bin where they belong! Otherwise, a very succinct and appropriate article – much appreciated!
Hillman makes 5lb assortment containers of assorted T-25 exterior deck screws in 1½,2,2½, and 3″ lengths in tan or black epoxy finish, they also have the same assortment but in Phillips head plated drywall screws aka “construction screws”, Wal-Mart and some hardware stores stock them and they are incredibly convenient, I buy 3″ deck screws and 1¼-2″ drywall screws in 25-50lb buckets but still keep those assortments in certain toolbags or vehicles and they are surprisingly heavily used lol, I also love both sharp point and self drilling Teks brand lath screws, they are surpringly useful for many random applications and the zinc coating is pretty impressive when left outdoors, unpainted for extended periods… Other brands of lathe screws I’ve used have had cam out or rust issues 👍
Never buy phillips if you can avoid it. Average people can’t tell the difference between the sizes and will massacre every project they attempt if they accidentally grab a ph1 driver and some ph2 fasteners, for example. Just buy Torx/star. most of these screws will be T15 or T25, with the occasional T20, or T10 for trim screws. grabbing the wrong size driver won’t be destructive unless you really try to screw it up 😉
The vast majority of the time I use 2.5″ deck screws. As it sounds, they split your first two use cases. Lots of 2x assembly without needing to toenail. I went through enough 1# boxes I finally got a 5# box. Very versatile. The important part is the torx (star) head. I can’t stand camming out. Screws are more stable on the driver bit with torx, too. And they’re less likely to strip. While Roberson (square) is better than Phillips, I think torx is better on all points.
I’d have to disagree with the 1-5/8″ Dwall. 1-1/2″ and 1-1/4″ are much more versatile. That gutter screw is practically a panhead screw. To be more clearer 1″ and 1-1/2″ self tapping sheet metal screws work good for mounting and strapping. Selfdrilling is good starting at 2″ and longer since it’s a bit difficult to align a hole at that length.
I have to carry around all manner of driver tips and have found that each mfr fitment of each type of screw varies. The most consistant fit in my experience (42 years woodworking, carpentry and metal fabricating) is the Torx (in the T20 and T25 sizes, not as much of the smaller ones), follewed by the Roberts (#2 square and some mfr of #1 headed), then the #3 Phillips in larger applications, and finally, 1/4″ hex with the right magnetic driver bit, fit nicely without worry of rounding off or wobbling while driving them in. In other words, if I want a fairly tight fit so I don’t have to worry about the famous “chatter” of a bit slipping and damaging a screw head, or the driver bit and likely, both, have a selection of bits to choose from because one never knows what was used before you got to the project. On a side note, ceramic coated screws hold up best when working with pressure-treated wood. The epoxy coated screws, as good as they are in non-treated wood, don’t last nearly as long as ceramic coated (just in treated wood). I’ve been back on decks I built 10+ years prior and had to replace epoxy coated screws (which were marked safe for treated lumber), so I did the research and found others who had solved the problem. It’s worth the extra cost in my hisrtory book.
Hey! Robertson’s screws (0:47) are neither strange nor specialty! Don’t forget they are the pre-cursor to the Philips screws – and the very reason we have them. They are just simply awesome! Not convinced? Think of how many times you’ve stripped a Philips screw. Now think of the chances of stripping a Robertson screw. Furthermore, a stripped Philips screw is basically done and a major headache. A stripped Robertson’s screw on the other hand, you can still undo it
I agree 100%. My credentials are that I sold fasteners for 15 years at a big box home improvement chain; I was the hardware department head for 12. My tips: 1. Avoid hiring “contractors” who use drywall screws for framing or outside. The great examples in this article were neither. 2. Never buy slotted-head screws. If repairing an item with slotted screws, replace all of them with Phillips or better, if possible. 3. Consider star-drive screws because the tip on your power tool stays inside the screw head more reliably. 4. It is possible to spend more on fasteners and other hardware than the DIY repair project result is worth. So tally up the cost before pushing your cart to checkout. 5. It is absolutely possible to break your wrist driving a 3″ screw while operating a power tool with 1 hand. Stand square to the surface and place your non-trigger hand over the top of the tool.
Can’t disagree as I don’t know squat, hence I’m here learning from you… again 😜 Fun fact: As a once new DIY’er, I bought a box of drywall screws because they were black. Not a clue of the differences between screws and what they were used for. Used them for everything, but drywall; those screws are still holding strong years later. Would I use those drywall screws on my wood projects today, not likely, but drywall screws are very handy to have!
Great article, but the thumbnail is extremely misleading. If there is one suggestion I can ever offer a beginner, it’s to splurge on the premium star-head (Torx) screws! It’s totally worth it! They take much less force, and greatly reduce the risk of camming out. I work with high school students, and have completely purged my shop of all philips-head screws! As a result, I haven’t had a stripped fastener in years!
I’ll take a pass on the drywall screws personally. If you have a reasonable wood working type store near you find some decent general purpose wood screws and default back to drywall screws in pinch (for for drywall!). I’m in Canada and the ones from Lee Valley are fantastic and the price is decent. Combo phillips/robertson (star/square), self tapping, self countersinking. Once you’ve used good screws you can’t go back to drywall screws … but thanks for sharing the info!
Pan heads are not ‘strage’ or ‘specialty’, they are an extremely common screw head that are used for a vast array of things. More than 90% of the screws I use for anything are pan head. If you’re mounting anything to a wall- shelves, TV, curtain / shades, coat racks, etc- most of the time, a pan head screw is most appropriate. For woodworking, sure, you’re not going to use pan head as much, but this title is what ‘Every DIYer needs’, not every carpenter or woodworker.
Those are all good sizes to have a around. I would get SS wood screws instead of drywall screws for hooking wood together, I’ve had too many cheap drywall screws snap. I tend to use a lot of 8 x 2 1/2, 8 x 1 1/2 and 8 x 1 construction screws on plywood, 1x and 2x. Don’t use a lot of 4x so 3″ is a bit overkill.
Well-reasoned and sensible choices. I have had trouble with deck screws and their ilk because they are cylindrical and once they start chewing up the wood they are useless. TBH, I’m guessing that I am not taking sufficient advantage of torque adjustments. I am, though, particularly fond of old style wood screws, that is, those that are a bit conical. They rarely cause the problems that I have with cylindrical screws. Most are slotted, though, making Phillips heads a better choice, though not a good one. The worst part is that they are a novelty item at big box stores. If time allows, try garage sales or for small lots, try EBay. For deck screws and their cylindrical kin, I find that square drive (Robertson) heads are a better choice than Phillips, which, after all, were designed to have the driver spoon out at particular torque settings.
Quick tip on shortening screws to a custom size: drill a series of undersized holes spaced close together in a piece of 3/4″ scrap wood and put a screw in each hole. Let the screw tips stick out at your desired cutoff length. Then clamp the board or put it in a vice with the points facing out and cut all of the tips off with an angle grinder. – at this point you can belt sand the cut ends or advance the screw tips out and use a wire brush or a file to clean up the ends . If you need to paint the screws… they’re in perfect position for spray paint too. I use a lot of 1 1/4″ drywall screws where 1″ isn’t long enough, I use more 2 ½” deck screws than 3″. I also go through lots of #6 and #4 counter sink and round head screws usually ½” long for smaller projects. I’m starting to favor the smaller #4s but the take a #1 Phillips driver. When I go out on a job I carry a small zipper case full of plastic spice jars, vitamin bottles, and pill bottles with an assortment of most used screws from 3/4″ to 4″ – and a couple sizes of fender washers w 3/16″ hole – very handy when you only need a few fasteners of various lengths screws.
The coated deck screws are not corrosion proof in wet environments. Within just a few years they begin to rust here in Hawaii. Here they’re considered junk. Go with stainless steel deck screws if you’re in wetter than average and coastel environments. Yes they will cost a bit more but it’s a better investment than having to repair your whole project in just a few years because you wanted to save a few bucks on screws.
I live in Canada and DO NOT use phillips screws EVER. We have Robertson or square drive as you yanks refer to it. The Robertson stays on your driver even down thru a deep hole or even downwards. Unlike Phillips they do not cam out either and do not fall off your driver bit. Been using them for over 50yrs now and no going back. Apparently this is one of the reasons there was some bad blood between the US and Canada back in the 40s and 50s. Robertson Whitehouse would NOT release the patent to the US and the US refused to pay for it so you are only getting it recently because the patents have finally expired. Because of the odd shape of the square hole sometimes you have to pull real hard to get it off the driver if you are not driving it with a tool. I have some 100yr old furniture put together with plain steel Robertson screws that I could reuse right away.
Lol terrible advice. Pan head is the most useful by far for regular home maintenance. If you are building a fence or cabinets you’re going to need more than what you happen to have lying around and you’re going to need to go somewhere to get the lumber anyways. For regular maintenance, you need screws that will pull whatever you are mounting into the stud/frame/whatever and sit tight without digging into your furniture/mount/etc. You need pan heads for that. One short type with full threads for maximum expansion in a plug, and one longer with a shank for pulling. Only buy drywall screws if you have drywall, which hopefully you don’t since it’s pretty shitty. DIY a proper wall if you do. And trim screws are just not important. If you want narrower screws, get narrower screws. Pre-drill/sink in if you want to minimize the risk of dimpling. Trim screws are in no way necessary. In any way.