This video provides a step-by-step guide on installing a barn door using standard hardware kits. It covers how to mount the track, attach straps to the door, and slot the bottom of the door. The installation process involves careful planning, precise measurements, and handyman skills. Rolltrak side mount barn door tracks come in various finishes and styles to suit any home and interior.
To install a sliding door, follow these simple steps:
- Confirm that the weight and size of the barn door can safely hang from the ceiling.
- Assess the structural integrity of the ceiling to determine if it can support the weight of the door.
- Choose a suitable stud finder to locate the wall studs along the marked area.
- Mount the track securely into the studs to support the weight of the doors.
- Attach the hangers (wheels) to the face of the door with the wheel side facing towards the back.
- Anchor the mounting board, prepare the track, drill pilot holes, and install the barn door hanger or roller.
In summary, installing a barn door track system requires careful planning, precise measurements, and handyman skills. By following these steps, you can turn any opening into the focal point of a room and create a beautiful barn door that turns any room into a focal point.
📹 Barn Door Track Installation | Step by Step Guide
In this video we install a barn door using a standard barn door hardware kit. We cover how to mount the track, attach straps to the …
How do you secure a barn door from the inside?
Barrel locks can be used to secure a barn door from the inside by fixing the lock to the door frame and engaging into a hole in the door. However, when locking a sliding barn door from the outside, the doorjamb is not available, so other types of locks must be used. Traditional ranch sliders can be used with barrel locks when configured correctly. To lock from the outside, the lock must be mounted above the door with a hole on the top, but access can be difficult depending on the door’s height.
How do you hide the gap between a wall and a barn door?
To fill gaps between barn doors and walls, consider using shower seals, weather stripping, door sweeps, larger doors, and soundproofing foam. Weather stripping is a rubberized strip that creates a tight seal, insulating the space from noise. Other options include installing a door sweep, using a larger door, and using soundproofing foam. These methods can help create a quieter space and improve the overall sound quality of your barn.
How do you fill the gap between barn doors and walls?
Barn doors are popular in the US for adding character and creating extra privacy. However, some people find them less private than they desire. To optimize bathroom privacy, consider using shower seals, weather stripping, door sweeps, larger doors, and soundproofing foam. Barn doors, which slide on tracks, are typically used in homes and businesses to cover openings or spaces. They were once used as entryway covers at stables but are now often found in homes as decorative pieces. To fill the gap between barn doors and walls, consider using shower seals, weather stripping, door sweeps, larger doors, and soundproofing foam.
How do you attach a barn door track to the wall?
In order to identify the location of wall studs, it is recommended to utilise a stud finder. The backer board should be held in a level position, with stud locations transferred to the board. Subsequently, holes should be pre-drilled at the marked stud locations, and the metal track should be clamped to the backer board in accordance with the instructions provided by the manufacturer.
Is there a gap between barn door and wall?
Barn doors stick out from the wall depending on the presence of a baseboard and molding on the door frame. The standard minimum space is one inch, but Rustica’s barn door hardware track system has a 1¾ inch gap. If the door frame includes a baseboard and molding, the door should stick out at least one inch from the surface. Spacers can be purchased to accommodate the baseboard and trim thickness. The space between the door and the floor should be at least half an inch from the highest point on the floor. The gap between a barn door and the wall allows the sliding door to open and close properly, as it slides along a track mounted to a wood header above the door.
Do interior barn doors have a bottom track?
Sliding barn doors for home use don’t require a bottom track, as they are top-hung for a sleek design. However, a bottom guide is used for stability and alignment during operation. There are various types of bottom guides available, allowing you to choose the one that best suits your door size, weight, and personal preferences. Understanding the nuances of sliding door systems and available door guide options will help you make an informed decision when ordering your barn door system.
How much gap should be at the bottom of a barn door?
The door should be installed with the bottom ½” from the floor, especially on uneven floors in older homes. To close the top or side gap, weather stripping or a small piece of wood can be installed on the inside facing edge of the door. This ensures a gap between the door and the wall, preventing damage to either or both. This is most common when there is no molding on the baseboard and the door is installed as close as possible. It is essential to ensure that there is enough space between the door and the highest point on the floor.
How do I keep my interior barn door from swinging?
The bar is mounted to the wall and can be adjusted to accommodate the door and the bar itself, thus providing a versatile and adjustable option.
Can you hang a barn door on drywall?
To install a door on drywall, you need about an inch of clearance between the door and the wall. If the door track doesn’t provide enough clearance, a backer board is necessary. A sturdy 1×4 block of wood is necessary for supporting the door without adding blocking inside the wall. Paint the backer board the same color as the wall and use a stud finder to locate the wall studs. Mark the studs on the wall and transfer them to the backer board. Pre-drill holes for hanging hardware in the backer board. The backer board should be painted the same color as the wall.
Can you install a barn door on a plaster wall?
Before installing a barn door, fasten a wooden board to the studs behind the plaster wall. The board should be at least equal in length and width to the track. Measure the center line position of the track by adding 43mm to the door height and marking it with a pencil. Center the track on the supporting board and mark the locations of track mounting holes. Use a stud finder to locate the studs behind the plaster.
How far does a barn door stick out from the wall?
Barn doors stick out from the wall depending on the presence of a baseboard and molding on the door frame. The standard minimum space is one inch, but Rustica’s barn door hardware track system has a 1¾ inch gap. If the door frame includes a baseboard and molding, the door should stick out at least one inch from the surface. Spacers can be purchased to accommodate the baseboard and trim thickness. The space between the door and the floor should be at least half an inch from the highest point on the floor. The gap between a barn door and the wall allows the sliding door to open and close properly, as it slides along a track mounted to a wood header above the door.
📹 How to Install a Hanging Barn Door
Custom barn doors are a lot of fun with the right help. Here’s a link to build one with a mirror: …
Very good instruction /barn door education. One of the best I have watched. I will only say to show more of the rail parts install. Doing my own today and can not find any that show which way the spacers go. Does the wider end go against the rail,or does it go against the ledger board. Its a blonde moment!! Since your instructions are the best,just want you to know some of us need a little more guidance. Thankyou for taking the time to make this article.
Hey Spencer, I am about to install my barn door and I. Got everything I need from your article. Except this, the door jam still has the molding around it so I’m using a piece of wood like you did to mount the rail on to. My question is how high should I measure for the rail so the door has enough clearance on the bottom and doesn’t drag on the floor? Thanx brother
I noticed you skipped installing the wood board going across the top . How do you know how for past the framing wood to place the rail board ? It looks like your about a 1/2 or 1 inch past the framing . I take it the space is to allow room for the stop that has to be added . I also take it the wood is the same length of the rail . You also didn’t go over how you figured out where to place the rail to make sure the door would have a space below the door once its hanging on the rail . You just started marking holes on the wood without doing any type of measurements at least not on camera, showing how far off the ground the top of the rail has to be for the door to have the proper clearance from the ground and Knowing that distance is the most important part of hanging this door and you left it out . I take it since the bottom of the roller grove to the top of the door is 2 inched you just add another 1/2 inch for clearance of the floor if your carpet is already installed and 1 inch if it’s unfinished, plus the length of the door . Say for example the door is 84 inches and you want 1/2 clearance from the floor, the top of the rail has to be 86.5 inches from the ground . So you have to mark the top of the rail on the rail board at 86.5 inches, add a nail in one of the holes next to the where the top of the rail is at 86.5 inches . Once you have nail holding one corner at the correct height of the rail then you can now level the rail and mark the hole through the rail into the wood .
Apparently I should have watched this 4 months ago, installed bolt heads out to match track bolt heads😬. Our shop built, and my helper and I installed a 2in, 45×84 white oak door.. Weight Aprox 250lbs. My tips from 1 install of a full size door, I had built 2 entertainment centers with barn doors for kennels underneath. #1 buy longer track than you need, ours 6 inches too short. Which meant the hangers were off-center of the stiles. #2 built a full template out of strips of 1/4 ply wood, which helped immensely on layout. #3 when adding a stained runner behind the rail, keep screws from showing. Top screws were 1 in above the rail, bottom screws were 1/2 up from bottom of rail. Line of sight, you can not see them (definitely depends on what the header height is). #4 make sure your runner (what the rail is attached to) is thicker then base board + 1/4 round. The bottom of our door was 3/8 (1/4-1/2 in was our only range) off the floor, for the floor mounted guide in our kit. If 1/4 round would have been present, we would have had to make the railholder/runner wider. Thick door casing/baseboards/out of plumb walls can affect this as well.
Nice job. As one who has built four custom sets of barndoors (3 and 4 doors per set with double tracks) and installed them myself, I know the trials and tribulations involved, and there can be many. My doors were so heavy though, I opened the wall and installed blocking. That also necessitated longer bolts. Additionally, we didn’t want straps going up the wall, which your’s didn’t have, so I flipped the top half of the bracket over and drilled them. Being that they were stainless steel, that was “fun”. Our doors function as security over the windows, so I also designed pin type key hole locks. I would send pictures if I could. Our neighbors are amazed. They think I am a skilled carpenter. I’m not. This is the biggest project I have ever done. It took many months. Just took my time with everything. Good part was, I got a lot of tools out of the deal because I “needed” them.
So is a Brain Fart the same as a Brain Freeze ?? Too much Sawdust will give you a Brain Fart !!! Joking buddy. Peace and Love from Texas. P. S. You should dip your nut drivers in that rubber coating stuff that ppl use to coat hammer handles and other things so you won’t have to worry about leaving scratches on finishes. ( I hope you understand what I’m talking about ). Lol
Hey Great article, did your track joiner come with your kits, because mine did not (Everbuilt) also I am planning on installing mine in a recessed space about 6″ shorter than the tracks combined length, do you think these can be cut to accommodate the space (there is plenty of room for the doors to recess)?
Spencer, Excellent narration as you demonstrate the project at hand. The fact that you shared your oops and that it didn’t get edited out shows you’re the real deal and humble. I can do the work but need silence when certain parts need to be done, you’re able to teach and demonstrate at the same time which is admirable. Since it appears to be a bedroom door, what type of door lock/latch do you install on that door?
my only concern is why leaving such a huge gap between the floor and the door itself. I am going to install 2 regular sliding doors today and one double. the kit that I have got is 99% the same. the only difference is the floor guide which is to be mounted to the floor so the door is going to be almost flush with the floor level.
I replaced our hall coat closet with a barn door, which is nice since the old door would block the hallway when it was open. I bought a slab from a door store that matched all our other new doors we were buying, and they were helpful in picking out the right size to cover the opening. The hardware instructions were straightforward. Cutting a website in the bottom of the door for a floor guide was a pain without a router. I used a Dremel with a router bit, which was a bit sketch, and slow, but it got the job done. I stuck the floor guide onto hardwood laminate with some 3M red tape instead of drilling into the laminate, which worked great. The only thing that sucks is the track stops that came with the hardware were not adjustable, they only attached to the lag bolts, so I bought one adjustable track stop from a different place, which was too expensive if you ask me, and I should really buy one more so i can open the door a bit more, but it’s fine for now.
The last 2 tracks I’ve ordered from Amazon came with 2 piece tracks for a 6’6″ track. Those are crap. Been using the same brand for a couple of years and always been a single bar. I’m guessing they are having shipping issues. I’ll try your link next time. Plus I like the bottom guide they include much better.
Awesome, I have a barn door from another place my wife wants installed but it had a floor mount guide that had two pieces to be screwed to floor (mine is concrete) on either side of door and turns out these got broken. My rail was a 2-piece one which joins in middle which makes difficult to mount. This kit looks much better so I will just order the new kit in your link which will save me a bunch of time and grief. I am putting in a large closet/room downstairs and will just replace the top trim with a new white header like you have in yours. However, I looked at that kit on amazon and the floor track/guide appears to be one that screws to floor, not same as one you show in article that screws to bottom of wall/trim.
Hi Spencer, great article. I have looked at whole kits including doors in the past but it was becoming extremely expensive over here in the UK. You have kindly added the links below for the kit, but could i ask about the bottom guide as the kit shows the type you screw into the floor and not the frame which i prefer. I have a total opening of 4′ 7″ including frame, so looking at a pair of sliding doors.
I enjoyed the pacing, length, and user-friendly language in the article. EVerything thing in the article was intentional and relevant to each step. I know absolutely nothign about this world, but after perusal I feel confident, with the right focus, I could replicate it on my own or at leastt have an easy to follow process to pinpoint where I made the mistake the begin with. Thank you for sharing your perspective!
Outstanding!! So many great tips here. I’m running into an issue that I wish I noticed before I went ahead and built my door and ordered the track etc. I went to install the header board and my wall has a bow to it. The ledger board will not sit flush. I assume the only way to deal with this is to use shims but curious if there’s another way I’m not thinking of. This isn’t something I planned on and out this project at a halt for the time being. Lol. Nothing is easy. Haha
Hey Spencer! I love all of your articles & a Podcast for Christian business. I’m in Oklahoma & been a carpenter for almost 20yrs. I don’t even like to install the jamb & casing untIl I have the exact tract & door that will be used, so that I can plan out the entire system. I like to have the same amount of track showing outside of the stops – so I either scoot the track over to the appropriate place or cut the ends of the track (depending on track manufacturer & wall limitations). Adjustable stops are nice – but some brands like “Goldberg” use stops that are fixed at the bolt hole – which require exact planning…
4:23 I saw it too. I prepared a door with this kit for the first time today. It also surprised me at first that the nut would be visible. But these bolt heads are ugly so it made sense 😉 Thanks for the tip regarding taping the socket. I wouldn’t have though of taping the socket when I’ll install next week… Client likes to micro manage me. That would have been bad 😉
Some good info and I hate to sound negative but No instructions on door height, door width for the size opening, How much overhang to have around the door frame with the door shut, how wide the header needs to be. How long the track needs to be for the size door, handle placement inside the room so that when you shut the door all the way from inside the room it’s all the way closed, but also opens up for maximum opening….lots of variables.
Spencer, Excellent article and explanation. I have a question on what measurements you took to locate the level line you put on the header board. I’m assuming the there is a measurement from the top of the tract to the bottom of the door and floor that you are using to hang the track? I’m putting in a similar door between the bedroom going into bath (like yours). I installed a vinyl plank floor in the bedroom and will be putting tile in the bathroom. My question is how to position the transition between the two floors. I’m thinking of having the tile start closer to the inside bedroom wall instead of half way between them as is usually done. I want to be able to stand in the bathroom with the door open and see the tile start where the floor ends along the bedroom wall. Hope this makes sense?