Clear coating is an optional step that adds an extra layer of protection against wear and tear, ensuring the paint job lasts longer. To do this, remove any hardware, such as doorknobs, handles, and hinges, to prevent paint accumulation in unwanted areas. Clean the hardware thoroughly and start with a separate coat of primer for the most durable finish. After the primer has dried, spray hardware using the following steps: 1) remove coating 2) sand with 320) 3) etch prime 4) neutral prime 5) top coat 6) clear coat (to protect the base color paint) 7) final sand up to 3200 depending on the final look desired.
Painting on door knobs can last if done correctly, but it’s best to prime them before painting. Primer blocks stains, mutes dark colors, and helps new paint stick better. It also seals porous fillers, making the topcoat look more appealing. Apply a polyurethane clear coat to your spray-painted door knobs, similar to applying a top coat to fingernail polish. After at least 24 hours of drying time, apply a glossy or matte clear coat of your choice according to the manufacturer’s directions.
When spray painting deadbolts or door handles, use very light coats of paint. Start with something rougher and work your way progressively to a higher grit (smoother). A clear coat won’t protect the underlying paint if not fully cured, so use lacquer thinner and a brass brush to degrease and remove the clear coat simultaneously. Then, use self-etching primer to create a unique, long-lasting finish.
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In this episode of Garage Noise, Diy auto paint continues as we answer the question of how to spot paint a car with spray paint …
📹 Don’t Remove It! Paint Your Front Door (Beginners Guide)
Jeremy & videographer Josh show step by step how to paint a front door without removing it. You will learn how to prep, and what …
Very informative. Much appreciated. One thing I have learned though from using aerosol cans for the past 40 years is start the spraying off the targeted area and end spraying off the targeted area. Especially if you’re using metallic. Gives it a more even coat. At least in my experiences anyway. Not saying its right or wrong, its just that works best for me.
Man I used to blow off the notion of a mask or much less a respirator. Wrong! The usual Rustoleum enamels are one thing, and even then we should protect ourselves, but lacquers are truly dangerous, and that 2k Clear is very strong, but very good, as I’ve used a ton of it. It polishes out well, and has even passed the gasoline spill test. The Dupli-Color version I tried before failed miserably. This can be done. Mostly prep work is very crucial, well, it’s ALL crucial. But application is the make or break. Environment matters big time too. If it’s too warm the paint will start to dry in the air before it hits the surface. So you get closer, right? Too close and it piles on in such a way that is insidious and deceptive. It might look great, no runs,shiny and wet looking, top notch. But later you will see it settle, and on vertical surfaces it’ll run so subtly you won’t see it till your wet sanding it next week. So not so close then. But it MUST look wet by the third coat. First mist coat is crucial, NOT WET. Let it sit just long enough to be tacky, not dry, but flashed off, where all the solvents have escaped, which is a tough call. Because here’s the kicker. If you wait too long, the next wet coat won’t settle into the mist coat deep enough, won’t stick as well, require that much more product, which then induces the next pitfall. If your can spatters, spits, at ALL, shake it and give it a spray elsewhere to see how it’s doing. If you THINK it’s gonna spit, set it aside for a seldom seen area where you might need more depth, and a spatter can be sanded smooth and dealt with, as opposed to the middle of the side of your drivers door.
It’s amazing what you can do with spray bombs these days. I thought for sure you were going to get a run out of that as well, I was super surprised that you didn’t, these spraybombs are pretty dern impressive. I haven’t spray painted in a while so basically just from perusal this article I’ve decide to paint my son in laws truck rear wheel arch’s with spray bombs.
Morning brother man, before even opening the YT app I thought to myself hmmm perhaps he released spraying with can article today ?! What do ya know because you actually did !!! Your a man of your word ! I gotta say that came out looking as if a bodyshop did it ! Great work and explaining as always teach, I can’t wait to tackle my quarter panel !!!! Godbless you for these articles
Man, you have no idea how much this helps me A TON!!! Never done it before, zero practise or knowledge but I feel confident (thanks to this article)I can do it with common sense lol. But it bugs me not to understand something, that in fact you haven’t spray paint the entire area but only sprayed with clear coat after sanding down. So my question is: If I sand it down an area with 800grid and clean it and after apply CC I will get the shine back?. Thx in advance Liked and Subed.
What is recommended for a Good flexible 2k clear and Primer Sealer for Plastic BUMPERS? I have the Seymour PBE Flexible Primer and SEM Flexible Primer Surfacer and they work GREAT! but im looking for Primer Sealers out of a can that I can use next… Either a 1k or 2k but definitely prefer a 2k can that either is activated by moisture in the air, or has a 2 part chamber system inside the can… Any recommendations!?
Hi, i was planning to do a truck wheel arch, (rusty), I am going to use duplicolor base and the 2k clear that you used. I am trying to stay away from clearing the entire truck panel. If i clear the problem area and a little beyond, will I be able to get a finish where I don’t see a transition. Maybe by polishing? thanks
wow man did you know that u r the only one help me returned shine to my car with almost no money 😍😍😍and much more i safe about 3 days at workshop to done what i done in 3 hours wow and all with very comfortable easy todo it my self thanx very much from now on iam ur loyal follower and looking to learn more from you please🤗🤗🤗
I wish I could super like this! Amazing quality and amazing inspiration honestly! I’m gonna email you some pics of the project Im about to do. I’m spraying the roof and hood on my 94 regular cab f150. It’s Calypso green and the clear is just shot on it from setting in sun all these years. I had a local paint supply shop put the OEM color in 4 aerosol cans and I have spray Max 2k clear to use too.
Wow this is amazing estimation point! I love that you’re using that type of paint as well! I have been trying to find a Dupli-Color for my car but they never have enough cans in stock, so I bought this brand, great to see how good it comes out! So my question is I’m doing an area in Black, would I want to use semi-gloss or gloss paint with the clear coat?
Couple comments, you’re way too close with the can, and the overlap from left to right and right to left is not required You should cut that in half instead of in thirds, and bring the can back another 2 in. Plus you’re not doing overlap spray you’re actually going over the same spots especially where you have that run you went over it several times if you look at it You can see you’re not really following a 50% overlap pattern. I’ve painted a lot of things, that was the things that stood out to me. You shouldn’t use this spray can any different than you would have spray gun
Great article! We have a 2006 RAV4 that has one area where the paint is bubbling (and coming off) plus some areas that need minor repair (dings from parking garages, etc). There are only 120,000 miles on the car and it runs great, but paying for a professional paint job on a 17-year-old car doesn’t make sense to us. She’s been good to us, but seriously, how much paint does a woman need! 🙂 We’ll give your instructions a try. If it works for amateurs like us, then you’re a hero.
Nice article. Wish I stumbled across it sooner. This past weekend I did a similar project with peeling clear coat on a daily project car I’m trying to make look better with spray cans. I sanded all with 320, 600, then 800 until I saw primer and reprimed, cleaned and all. Unfortunately I ran out of base cans and clear and the color looks off as a result. I just ordered more cans and extra for good measure. My question is since I recently primed the panels I want to target and it has a slim base layer and clear, do you think I can sand down the clear coat and add more base from here and then clear again?
Hey chris, I used the fc720 clear coat and got a bit of die back. I am spraying outside in relatively hot days (80 degrees) and using slow reducer. Is the fact that im doing it all outside make a difference for how it dies back? Also would you have any other reccomendations for clear coat? Obviously low die back is the biggest factor for me.
Good job aerosols aren’t as bad as people make out perfectly fine for a Diyer without a compressor and air line and gun. You can definitely get respectable jobs from cans people just like to moan but trust me if a expensive cars come from factory with a bad job people don’t question it because of the price and they expect it good but if a cheap car has a bad job they look at the quality extra because it’s cheaper. Many expensive cars have more orange peel than cheaper cars and usually people say we don’t want orange peel
Just used “Spray Max” today. Must have got a bad can. Shook it for 2 minutes, released the hardner and shook it for 2 more minutes. The damn thing kept blobbing out clear dropping all over the floor. I had to spray from a foot away tto keep the blobs from getting on the painted area. No 4 inches away for me. Never again for this product!
NY medic here. It really amazes me how little regard people have for their lungs. Whether it’s smoking or not wearing a $12 respirator. Well I can tell you people with lung disease they don’t die right away. I don’t wish oxygen hunger on anyone not even people I hate so wear some protection when you spray paint these cars. Hopefully you don’t smoke either
9:37 Clear Coat goes on. Still trying to find information anywhere that tells me how soon can you place a clear coat on after the base coat. Best I find is 30 mins to 24 hours, so am guessing that’s the answer. as soon as 30 mins, and up to 24 hours. Maybe after that I need to do something clever to spray an in-between coat of something.
I do some repair work at home, I have a verity of paint guns mostly cheap ones but if you can paint the best guns can make a difference but you can get a nice job as long as you can get the best out of what your working with. The weld type stud gun with slide hammer on it how do you or where can you purchase one, I have a stud gun but that type can save you some time. And your wipe down you use were can you get that or can you make that yourself ?
I need yr help I painting the same thing but in a different car I didn’t want to paint the whole panel could I just paint the damage part. & also every time I sand the paint keeps chipping off and what turned out to be a small scratch I e turned it into a much bigger task it just keeps going father up when I sand the clear seems to be getting wider and bigger as I sand. And also the bando filler shows under the paint idk why I filled it with primer then sanded with 600 wet sand I can see the filler under the paint looks like a map… I appreciate any help especially with mapping problems
Was texting you about the respiratory while spraying the clear coat should also where it for primer or paint my friend good article but bad article also because of the respiratory on your face don’t want you to end up in the hospital one day with one of their respirators because your lungs are toast man take care of yourself don’t ever do what you did in this article not using the respirator ok
Thank you for such a great article. Yesterday, I did the same thing with my Honda Accord. I was delighted with the results I achieved with the color-based spray, but I went and used the same clear coat you used in your article. I got cloudy, – dull results, and I don’t know why or how to fix it and avoid it happening again.
great article and a very great to to me, a total beginner who’s never done this before. The only worry I have is that you don’t say 1) How long your leave the paint coat to dry before applying the clear. 2) I’m unclear what, if anything, I’m supposed to do on the paint job before applying the clear? Just a tack cloth and the isopropal? Anyhoo, you have given me the confidence to now try this job after two weeks of buying the paint and clear, but lacking the courage to actually try it. Now, after perusal your article, I can’t for tomorrow to get going on it and really get it done! Any faults will be my fault and not yours because you showed how to do it so well! Best wishes and thanks again from the UK. Al.
Spraymax 2K is incredibly dangerous. It should be sprayed in a booth, wearing a full respirator (no not N95s), Tyvek suit, the works. So many people think this is like the spray paint from Wal-Mart but it is NOTHING like that. Also, if you sand it…same deal. Full suit, location that isn’t getting toxic dust into your garage, suitable gloves, etc.
Very nice, I had my hood repainted by my mechanic, he paints all his cars as a hobby. He charged me a 100.00 and did a great job but I really think he needed to do 1 more coat of clearcote. I think I am going to do it myself after seeing the job you did. I have waxed it for the 1st time about a month ago, of course I let the paint cure for about 6 months. Do you think I should wet sand it after I get the wax off 1st?
Thanks for the article,I actually have a similar colour Honda Accord, but….I had a scratch on the corner rear bumper,I filled the scratch,sanded etc,applied 3 coats of base coat,then 3 of paint,then next day 3 clear coat. Waited 24 hours to lightly polish off but clear coat came off? Look horrible,I can see where it doesn’t blend in,I may have to do the entire bumper? Any suggestions please.have a great day
I’d visit a scrapyard first and buy the cheapest door they had, and I would use that to practice at. Can try different paints and clearcoats etc just go at it because it doesn’t matter with a random door you’re not going to use. If I was to try this at home I would want to be confident I would make a great result before I even bought any paint or anything.
I used spray max 2k clear glamour and didn’t get the deep shine you have. Took 2000 and 3000 wet sanding to it. Like a little better. I’m hoping that compound will bring the shine out. The car color is a beige gold so it’s not going to pop as easy as black. So compounding and polish should fix my problem?
Hey Everyone so im hoping someone can help answer a question. So i had some peeling clear coat on my Q50 i wet sanded the area where it was peeling plus a few inches outward. So i wanted to know is it possible to just clear over the area that i wet sanded or will that lead to peel down the road? Am i better off wet sanding the whole door and just clear over it all? I appreciate all the input. Sorry in advance for the dumb question
That paint was fine too begin with! I painted my teen son’s 95 Impreza with rattle cans. From forest green to navy blue. I used Rust-Oleum brand enamel. I do not buy the spray cans with the standard caps they are often junk, and on big projects will cramp your finger faster too. I did the whole job in phases, in 7 days start to finish, under an open carport. 1 day later, after a decent dry time, the Colorado wind gusts picked up for days. I was very blessed! Close call! My recipe was: sand with 320, then 600, clean with soap/water, mask/cover, clean with lighter fluid twice, tac cloth, 2 coats black primer, 3 coats color, 3 coats clear…each 10 to 12 minutes apart. All paint has to applied within 90 minutes from start, upon a flashed off coat. 2 years later and still good. I don’t even think he’s waxed it yet. 😅 Oh, i didn’t sand between any coats, obviously. It didn’t look perfect but good enough for a teen ride.
Really great and detailed article the results are amazing! I had a deep scratch on the side of my car so I had to use filler, primer and spray paint but the car shop sold me the wrong clear coat, it was meant to be shiny clear coat but instead sold me a transparent flat one instead. Without realising this I sprayed on my car and now looks completely wrong. Should I sand down to remove the coat and then immediately spray the shiny 2k clear coat? Or do I need to spray a fresh layer of paint then clear coat?