To repair peeling clear coat on car or truck door handles, first wash the panel where the damage has occurred and remove any wax or foreign substances. Apply painter’s tape an inch away from the damaged area to create a border. Use a heavy sandpaper (800 grit) to scuff off the large flakes of clear coat first.
To fix peeling clear coat on interior door handles, start by cleaning the handles with a car-paint-safe de-greaser and a sponge. This ensures that the surface is free of dirt, grease, or debris that could interfere. Protective coatings are thin and easily removed, but this issue involves the peeling of a much thicker plastic that provides a glossy sheen finish.
To fix peeling clear coat, try using a piece of 3000 grit wet and dry sand paper and polishing away those grit sanding scratches with an auto paint polish. 3M offers the best DIY fix-it kits for scratch removal.
Car clear coat is a transparent layer of paint that goes over the primer and basecoat, protecting the underlying paint job. To fix peeling clear coat, use an acrylic clear coat after painting, aka high-quality clear spray paint, which should be impervious to alcohol and non-toxic.
Sand the old clear coat only, not the paint, as it comes off very easily. Use multiple light sources to keep as much paint as possible. One method is to use spackling compound or wood filler and skim coat the affected areas with enough putty so it sticks above the surface. Heating the handle with a hair dryer makes this easier, and the coating can be peeled off with a thumb nail or razor blade.
📹 Fast Way to Fix Peeling clear coat on Car Door Handle
Learn how to repair the peeling clear coat on your car or truck door handles. If you take your time and depending on damage it …
📹 How to fix Faded Car Paint |Peeling Clear Coat repair | Toyota Previa Minivan Camper Conversion
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Thanks, Chris! I have a 2013 toyota yaris, and 3 of the handles are starting to lose clear coat. This article is just what I need. I will say as far as Toyota “being cheap” (fair assessment!) I bought the car used in 2018 with about 60K miles on it, put on another 100K going around the country, and I’ve had a few of these smaller issues, but no major mechanical problems yet, which is better than my last two cars. It might sound crazy but I kind of don’t mind toyota cheaping out on some things, like the clear coat, as long as they keep the cost down and the car has longevity. But I’m also not a car guy, it just gets me around. I know some people would be more annoyed, and by saying that, I might be part of the problem haha. Thanks again for the article!
It looks pretty good, but for a little constructive criticism I would of done 1 layer of basecoat after sanding, then when applying the clear coat only apply 2 layers, with the first one being really thin and letting it dry for a few minutes to create a glue for the 2nd coat to stick to, and on the 2nd coat lay it down thick, the glue you create from the first coat will allow you to lay on a really thick coat without it running: also spray bottom up instead of top down to work against gravity. Then after 24 hours of drying you wet sand it with 5000 grit sandpaper, followed by compound, and polish. Wait 30 days for the paint to fully cure to the metal surface then apply wax for that showroom shine finish.
Thank you so much! This a great simple solution. Even if I may have to do this every 3 to 6 months this is far more worth it to me then trying to pay $1000 to $3000 (worth more than car) to get it touched up or repainted. Best thing is it’s an SUV so can experiment on the roof. Even just doing this before a date will keep my car from looking bummy now. Lol. Thx!
If you have guitar string or piano wire or solid welding wire a piece of it wrapped around a couple small vise grips and clamp the wire in the vise grips will take emblems and moldings off a car with zero damage to the finish or emblems. Just don’t use it like a saw, pull the shorter side towards you and hold the longer side firm . Promise you it’s the best way to remove emblems and mouldings that are attached with two sided tape, also works great for rain guards.
I see you’ve replied to people recently which is awesome you’re still trying to help hope you could help me as well. Was redoing a panel and ran out of clear and can’t get more for a couple of days do you think if I sand the clear I’ve already sprayed the new clear will still stick fine any help is appreciated!! And loved the article!
With rattle can. You’d be better served not spraying like you’re using a paint gun, because it’s a paint can. And it’s single action. So the starts and stops of the trigger are the worst sprays. So you should not let off from top to bottom. Treat the middle of the spray, the fan, as the guild and spray the very top with the middle of the fan, move down 1 or 2 inches every pass. That panel looks about 15 inches. So you should have done about 11-15 passes.
Right, so everyone knows colour coat is a porous paint and can’t reflect light. Although you’d still be rubbing down clear coat edges. My Scratch Patch matches colour for colour of both paints, especially burgundy as this gives a pink centre and burgundy surround. Although faded Nissan red (panel shops/valets couldn’t improve without respray) and baby blue Ford (owner tried every product on our market and wouldn’t retain shine past 1 week/1 carwash), I washed car myself, washed with product, rinsed in 1/4’s, rewet and chamois dried, shined a faint residue to a gleam, in 20 min, without water paper. I gave up checking on shine after 5yrs in one of worlds worst saltair climates, with hectic infrared. But as you can paint over, it’d make sense to clear coat, shine in, for really deep gloss. Thinking on getting affiliates to market stateside. But right now preoccupied on different issues. Just saying …
On your Previa transmission dipstick when it is hot the fluid should go up to the top knotch correct? Mine just goes to the center of the word hot and I think it is low b/c I hear whining when I accelerate and it is not the power steering. I drive it gently and reducing my driving until the fluid and new trans gasket from Toyota arrives.
I tried using base coat (dupli-color- silver metallic) with Spray max 1K clear coat on my old corolla’s faded/peeled roof but it did not work well because I have lines on it. I have to re-do again the whole roof again today and this time I will warm up the can first but the dupli-color are not cheap ($15 per 8 oz – can say touch up only – did not say paint whole roof). I wished I just use clear coat because yours turned out great; however, my faded /clear coat peeled are worst than yours but I think just clear coat may blend in better even I might see the faded paint. Thanks for the article.
bought a car for $500, looking to do something similar on a good portion of this vehicle. Glad to see someone doing this for a cheap fix. All other articles wet sand and buff. Also most of them do a primer and new base layer of color, not looking to do that BS, just want a solid easy cheap fix to get rid of the clear coat oxidation.
I had a buddy of mine that worked at a dealership in the detail department. He was tasked with applying the clearcoat to new vehicles. I would visit him at work from time to time. One day he had several vehicles to clearcoat. He said, watch this, he filled up a bucket with water, dumped the clearcoat in the bucket then threw the entire contents on the new vehicle. He did that to all the cars that he was supposed to clear coat. Obviously never actually applying it as per the instructions. I guess it turns out he did all those people a favor.
If you are going to try and do this yourself,do yourself a huge favor and go to your local Napa store and ask the paint rep for a can of Clear Diamond Finish made by KBS – Coatings part number #8114 three medium to heavy coats and it’ll not only bond very well to the old finish it will look like the original finish . Also dry sand the the clear and try to stay off the paint, use 800 grit paper dry . It will do Two things for you,1. Allow you to see how much material you are sanding off so as not to go too far, 2. You will get a much better adhesion from the clear . 1000 grit then finishing with 2000 grit is definitely too fine to gain proper adhesion. 2000 is for wet sanding the final finish in order to buff it .good luck people. P.S. the Napa store in your area should have the better product I mentioned for about the same price, I normally pay 17.00 per can and I use it on fender edges and things like that but it will work on the exterior.
okay, good results, and you have a talent, but next time you can do it right and plan it a bit. Use resin cans – and do something for dust in the air. Just an air filter where you are spraying would be better than nothing. Spray things down and wait for calm air. Find an auto paint supply store but check online pricing. Watch youtube.
Pretty good job on the cheap and huge improvement over what you started with. I guess when doing these sort of jobs you can spend a fortune on superior expensive products and getting paints professionally matched at an auto-paint store etc, but you really need to take into account the age and value of the vehicle when deciding how much you invest in your time and money. Your approach for this particular vehicle was probably the right balance.
Using dish soap to wash vehicles extracts the oil in the clear coat, causing this. Think ducks and oil spills. Buy some cheap soap for washing your vehicle people, so you don’t have to replace the “most durable part” of your paint’s finish! Thanks for the article of a decent fix with all the realness of doing it!
It should not have used 2 full cans..that’s nuts …1 can would have been enough if you did it the right way… with your first check at you want to spray light and thin and not to close after a couple minutes you can spray close enough without worrying about runs.. because after thebfirst come at itbwilvstick liie glue
It looks good but I reckon it’s a waste of time & effort. Once clear coat has started to peal, all of has been UV damaged. That’s the problem with all clear finishes, the UV shoots all the way through & damages it at all depths. That means you can’t blend a repair, because any of the original clear that you leave feathered off into the repair will also delaminate very soon. Economically, it may help you sell the car to some unsuspecting victim, but you will have to get rid of it quick & live with the fact you’re a real A H. The only real way to fix failing paintwork is, strip or cutback all the failing layers & respray but even then, it’s not going to last as long as the original factory finish. That’s just the reality of not garaging a car. In all things, a man just has to decide if he will live with integrity or not.
I did not hear Sean mention what grit, or grits he uses when sanding. I am looking for process to remove peeling clear coat at point of peel, to smooth, and to do so with out damaging the adjoining good paint. Any input from those with experience really welcomed. I need to get on top of this on my 2006 Tundra with only 135K miles on it, and 100K more to go! Thanks all. And yes, I need to get out more!!