White oak is a durable and water-resistant wood suitable for outdoor projects. Its key attributes include resistance to decay, wear, and weathering. When finishing white oak for exterior use, it is essential to choose a high-quality exterior finish that offers both protection and aesthetic enhancement.
There are several types of finishes available for white oak, including oil-based primers, paint, opaque stain, or exterior varnish, and penetrating-oil finishes. Wood oil, such as Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra, is a popular choice for exterior oak, as it helps feed and nourish the wood while protecting it from weathering. Non-film, penetrating finishes like Pentofin or Sikkins can also be used.
White oak is naturally resilient in weather, so it is recommended to coat it with at least three coats of epoxy and then sand and coat with six coats of marine oil. Sanding the wood with different grains of sandpaper, starting with a rougher grit like 80, progresses to 120, 180, 280, and more. If you want to color the oak and prevent it from turning gray, a stain/deck preservative like Pure tung oil, marine “teak” oil, or a true marine non-poly oil can be used.
To achieve the desired look and durability, a combination of three coats of clear epoxy and several top coats of spar or marine varnish is recommended. Outdoor/marine varnishes like Totalboat Halcyon are UV inhibitors that won’t change the color of the oak with age due to their UV inhibitor properties.
In conclusion, white oak is a versatile choice for outdoor projects, offering both durability and beauty with the right treatment and finishing.
📹 I wish I knew. Staining white oak wood
This is the nightmare I went through in order to stain my white oak millwork on my stair railings. I tell you three things I wish I would …
What is the best oil finish for white oak?
To maintain oak surfaces, use tung oil, hardwax oil for darkening, or danish oil for bringing out rich tones and preventing stains. For pine, use raw linseed oil, as it won’t contaminate food substances, making it ideal for dining tables. For pine furniture not in contact with food, danish oil provides the most durable finish. Both oils are suitable for oak and pine surfaces, ensuring their color and character are maintained.
Does white oak need to be sealed?
White oak floors do not need to be stained, as the seal protects them from traffic and spills. The choice of stain is based on preference, with sealers slightly altering the color while maintaining their natural look. During the project, pressure and second-guessing were felt, but Bona Classic Seal emerged as the most muted option due to its ability to achieve the desired look in bright morning light and evening glow. Weathered Oak was too gray, Amber Seal was too yellow, and Weathered Oak was too gray.
The seal over stain is also beneficial as it dries quickly and has little smell, making it a popular choice. The project was a significant decision, involving back and forth discussions and multiple viewings, ultimately choosing Bona Classic Seal.
How do you waterproof white oak?
To waterproof wood, use linseed or Tung oil for a protective hand-rubbed finish, seal it with polyurethane, varnish, or lacquer, or finish and waterproof wood simultaneously with a stain-sealant combo. Wood’s natural beauty should be protected properly, and learn which products are best for your furniture and surfaces. Without proper knowledge, most lumber will suffer from moisture and high humidity, leading to swelling, warping, or rotting. Fortunately, there are products available that protect wood while enhancing its natural beauty.
How do you make oak last outside?
Semi-transparent stains protect oak from exterior damage and alter its appearance, preserving its color and preventing UV and moisture-induced photodegradation. There are water-based and solvent-based products in this category, with water-based finishes being more environmentally friendly and faster drying times. Solvent-based finishes are popular for their excellent performance. It’s essential to choose a product that is penetrating and non-film forming. Owatrol Aquadecks is an excellent water-based stain, providing a long-lasting, rich matt finish. On the solvent side, Owatrol Textrol HES offers a stunning matt-sheen oil finish that complements oak.
What is the best finish for white oak outside?
White oak can be readily stained to alter its hue, with all stains demonstrating efficacy. In the case of quartersawn and riftsawn stock, the use of aniline dye is recommended in order to achieve even penetration and the appearance of ray flecks. For outdoor applications, weather-resistant finishes such as spar varnish or exterior urethane are recommended. Unfinished white oak exhibits a favorable weathering characteristic, assuming a pleasing light gray hue.
How do you make white oak look weathered?
The shop recommends using vinegar and steel wool to create wood grey. The process requires a while, especially for dense wood like white oak. The basic recipe involves placing steel wool and vinegar in a jar, brushing it on, and observing the results. Rinsing with water when desired patina is achieved is also recommended. However, it is important to note that using this mixture on oak will turn it black.
How do you finish white oak so it doesn’t yellow?
Water-based polyurethane is a popular choice for floor varnish, replacing oil-based polyurethane as the preferred finish for hardwood floors. This polymer is used in various industries for protective coatings, foam, plastic wheels, and insulations. When applied in liquid, it hardens and dries to form a moisture-resistant layer on wood surfaces, adding a smooth and lustrous look. Water-based polyurethane is better at preventing discoloration in hardwoods, especially white oak floors, and helps prevent yellowing or fading out.
Oil-based polyurethane doesn’t refract UV rays, which may increase the effects of sunlight on white oak floors. Both options effectively keep out stains, but oil-based polyurethane may not be effective in preventing yellowing in white oak floors.
Can white oak be used outside?
White oak is a popular choice for furniture due to its strength, durability, and ease of use. It is abundant, comes in various widths and thicknesses, and is rot-resistant. White oak furniture can last for decades with regular staining and proper maintenance. It is widely used in cabinet and furniture making, flooring, boat building, barrels, interior trim, and veneer.
White oak does not have the oil content of teak or ipe and should be painted or protected with a water-resistant sealer or topcoat. Teak can cost five times as much as a good grade of white oak, but it has a long history of use in boat-making and barrel-making due to its water-proof characteristics. Red oak is porous and not as enduring outdoors as white oak. However, it has a unique property – the presence of tyloses, a type of cellular growth that fills the pores of the wood, which prevents water from penetrating the wood.
Reclaimed wood, such as ipe and teak, is preferred by modern boat builders due to its water-proof properties. They are more durable and can last decades with minimal maintenance. Ken Tomita prefers natural oil finishes that can be replenished, as plastic clear coats will eventually yellow and peel off. To protect wood furniture from the elements, leave it out of the elements as much as possible.
To maintain wooden outdoor furniture, clean it with soapy water at the start of spring, apply a couple of coats of wood stain or paint, and stain once per year. Bruce Lemler recommends applying an all-weather varnish like BEHR Premium Transparent Weatherproofing All-In-One Wood Finish, applied immediately upon purchase or finishing outdoor pieces, with a repeat application every 2-3 years. Each application should involve two coats of a regular coating and a second, thinner coating for better protection.
What is the best finish for exterior oak?
Outdoor oils, such as Finest Danish Oil, Teak Oil, and Decking Oil, are blends of pure oils like Raw Linseed Oil and Tung Oil. These oils provide protection for up to 12 months without retreating, unlike varnishes, which do not chip or flake. Oils are best treated with Raw Linseed Oil diluted with White Spirits, Finest Danish Oil, or Pure Tung Oil for a paler shade.
Varnishes, such as Sikkens Cetol Filter 7, offer excellent weather protection without significantly hiding the grain pattern of the wood. Sadolin Extra, available in clear, provides good all-year weather protection, with a lifespan of 2-3 years before recoating and up to 5 years in sheltered conditions.
Modified oils, such as OSMO Country Colour and OSMO Natural Oil Woodstain, offer a semi-penetrative seal with twice the life expectancy of traditional oil finishes.
How do you seal white oak without changing color?
To seal wood without darkening its natural color, use a high-grit sanding tool, clean with Krud Kutter, water down white paint, lightly whitewash the wood, use a sponge brush to eliminate brush strokes, and apply General Finishes Flat Out Flat topcoat. This product works on real wood and veneer, providing coverage for all projects. It is not a wax-based product, so you don’t need to continually reseal it. The product is designed to maintain the perfect color and doesn’t require constant resealing. This post contains affiliate links but not sponsored links.
How to waterproof white oak?
To waterproof wood, use linseed or Tung oil for a protective hand-rubbed finish, seal it with polyurethane, varnish, or lacquer, or finish and waterproof wood simultaneously with a stain-sealant combo. Wood’s natural beauty should be protected properly, and learn which products are best for your furniture and surfaces. Without proper knowledge, most lumber will suffer from moisture and high humidity, leading to swelling, warping, or rotting. Fortunately, there are products available that protect wood while enhancing its natural beauty.
📹 Durable Outdoor Finish?
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Rubio Monocoat is great for color matching and evening tones. We build a ton of vanities and our top request from interior designers is to match the flooring or other trim work. We’ve found that water popping the grain helps as well. Great article, thanks for sharing. Headed to the shop now to experiment with some green stain!
There’s a place called Multifit Blades that makes sanding fingers that fit on oscillating sanders like yours. Instead of having a big triangle, most of which isn’t doing much, you have a thumbprint sized pad and velcro-attached abrasive. I find it much easier to use, much faster, and also easier to control the direction of the sanding scratches. Get a whole bunch of those fingers though because they don’t last long. I think sanding heat kills them, so I found it useful to keep the speed down, don’t press, and maybe even swap pads (enough to make you cuss) to let them cool. Also, you can flip the paper around backwards (pointy end back) to get more use from one little piece of paper. Nothing would have made that sanding job fun or easy, but this might have helped a bit. Yeah, do a test piece, always, but there is another trick that I might have tried. The equivalent to post production color correction is toning, especially when your colors aren’t saturated, as is the case here. In toning, you put color over earlier finish coats. There is a chance you could have evened out that lacquer coat (if there were any bare spots) and then applied a dye on top of it and thereby achieved your color correction. If it didn’t work, you’d have to sand, which is what you were doing anyway. As a specific example, I’d have tried General Finishes green “dye stain” over the lacquer after waiting suitable time for that lacquer to be dry dry dry….maybe 72 hrs. Finish coats would be needed over that.
Unseparated, I kind of like the red tones. But I see where you’re coming from. You need a colorimeter to do it right. I wonder if they have those for stained wood. I have one for paint. Well, wait a minute. just white balance and run it through your post processor and measure the RGB or HSL. But no fair keeping it to yourself. Let me know!
Rink, where do I get these railings from? My stairs need an update and yours look beautiful. Mine was built in 2010 and for some reason has the same god damn balusters as every other house that’s been built since 1982. Why. Glad you were able to salvage your situation man. I don’t know what I woulda done.
Let me tell you why I’ve been so successful in my woodworking career. Research everything you want to do before you try to do it. That means materials, tools, designing, methods, procedures, and finishing. I never tackled anything that was new to me before doing my research, even after I knew a lot about woodworking already. New things are always coming up in my career, and knowing what I have to do before doing it is a very important step. Because of that, I seek out all I can find that is relevant to what I wish to do, and study it. Because I do that, I am successful 95% of the time or better. In the case of your stair bannisters, you should never install them before the surrounding area has been given its finish, and the same goes for cabinetry, window and door frames, etc. Look at your project and figure out what is supposed to be completed when! This is especially true when you are working with others to get a project done. No one likes having to do something over, or to have to fix something that got done too soon. So look at the job ahead, and ask yourself “How far along does the other parts of the job need to be, before I can safely get this part done?” In the case in which other workers are working on areas near what you are going to do, if their work will have an effect on what you must do, if you do your work first, let them get done before you do your work. Yes there may be times when your work might do something bad to their work, so find a way to do your work that has the least impact on what is already done.
West System’s epoxies are top quality products that are in another world from some two-part products. Gudgeon Brothers (do they still use that name?) have a continually expanding line of products and specific techniques for their use. Unlike so many products used in woodworking, they don’t spoil in an opened can. When their products are mixed as directed there is virtually no scent or poisonous outgassing to them. Besides a free quarterly magazine about readers’ and employees’ projects and company run laboratory trials, their telephone support is astonishingly good. I’ve never failed to reach a knowledgeable employee for advice on my first try. They also print free pamphlets or brochures on the different types of requirements and techniques to accomplish types of work that have probably not crossed you mind as being possible. Gush, gush.
Thats just how it is with outdoor furniture/boats. No matter what, you will (or pay someone) to refinish your prize. Just life. My old man used to redo our picnic table back in the 70’s like evcery two or three years. He enjoyed using Shellac. Looked great, but every two or three years, it was a redo
I used these exact same products you used on my Mahogany and stained Glass front door and side panels. Total cost 500 dollars for the materials and it took me a whole year. Shamefully a year and a half. The builder who originally did a real half ass job. The door came out amazing. Sanded the door. Stained the door. Used the epoxy as you did and the varnish. This was eight coats on each side plus the two side panels. What a job. Fortunately the builder left the original door so I used it to replace mine during this “God awful knight mere.” Only kidding. Great article. I know exactly what you went through.
Too expensive. Best way to preserve wood from becoming black/yellow/red is to add some kind of pigment to it. Stain it. Use stain that is the same color as the wood (or any other color). I used colorless stain (is that even stain?) for my floor, walls and windows. The floor became red, the walls and windows became yellow. Used only stain for my fence, house and sauna. Good as new after 10 years.
Boatwork recipes for brightwork: All raw wood thats been presanded & clean gets liberally brushed or slathered with boiling hot linseed oil (preboiled) 80% to 20% turpentine. Caution remove oil far from flame as turpentine is extremely flammable. The heat & thinner drive oil deep into wood. Once sufficiently dry ( tacky to touch which will take time) you can begin applying successive coats of following: McCloskys spar varnish – way less expensive than marine varnish just as good. 85 – 95%, Boiled linseed oil 5-15% the higher the% the slower it will dry (days) but the softer & more flexible the recipe which wont bubble peel or flake because it expands & contracts with the wood. Turpentine 20%. Total 2 – up to 6 coats for really high end work with a 220 grit light sanding & tac clothing & airhose between to give ea layer teeth to receive next coat. The idea of using epoxy in a varnish recipe is contrary. Yes to epoxy for filling gaps but you want a soft pliable finish on the woods surface because it will, no matter what expand & contract. Non believers try this on a pc of scrap & throw it up on the roof for a season & forget about it. Check it next spring & see for yourself. Youre very welcome.
I JUST finished (i.e. 5 minutes ago) my own western red cedar outdoor table. I also reclaimed the wood. Mine doesn’t receive much if any sun – how well would a deck sealer like Thompsons water sealer do? I have a set of teek furniture next to it that I renew with teek oil At least twice a year so I’m not adverse to maintenance
Doing exactly as you show on BIG oak tree cookies (45 to 50 inch diameter) my coworker had taken down. I am making tables using this finishing technique that is leaving me speechless. Its one thing seeing it on article/photo BUT to stand in presence of this finish once done with high gloss, which Im a fan of, is a whole different ballgame ! My neighbors are totally amazed and just like you outdoors is the only place I can work on these giants. .
Would love an update as we are about to embark on refinishing 5 large picnic tables from a two year old Eagle project. We bought the larger size of the West Marine Epoxy but wanted to get some advice first. 1. How has this held up since it was done? We have variable climate – hot, humid summers and often wet, below freezing for a month winters. 2. We used a sealer/stain combo for the original build; figure we’ll have to do a lot of sanding 3. What finish do you recommend if we cannot commit the time (or space) to do all 5 tables in the manner you did (though we love the look)? I’m afraid of using any poly for fear of cracking and failing/yellowing. Intrigued about using Tung Oil and redoing that on the spot each year.
You could of saved yourself a whole hell lot of time by just using shellac. Its a wood filler and sealant. I don’t know why more people don’t use it, its amazing stuff.. I know its not specced as a wood filler, but trust me, it fills wood and seals, and you can apply other products right over top of it if you want.
I was going to say, “oh hell no,” then came to the comments and see you beat me to it. I played with epoxy and poly finishes inside and out starting over forty years ago. From that I learned, as you point out, everything needs maintenance. The easier that maintenance, the better. The other thing I learned is, deep penetration trumps surface coats every day. In fact, ideally, we’d replace lost moisture with oil, which would swell the wood. The only way to do that with a hardening oil would be, keeping the surface wet for a long time, so the air didn’t start hardening the oil. Then there is the non-hardening oil approach, but which brings the fun of applying finishes.
I was going to say, with all your detailed sweat investment and open pocketbook, if this finish doesn’t last a lifetime then dismantle it and use it for your firepit. Would it have been better to have machine sanded away the grey, then applied boiled linseed oil in 3 coats, beautiful finish done, and only apply a quick coat every year?
I’ve done the same.. but used West System’s epoxy instead of varying it. I agree on the Foam brush.. but use a foam roller to apply the expoxy/varnish and then tip with a foam brush… this eliminates the bubbles and provides a clear finish. Another thing is GLOSS will has much longer than a matte finish. You might also apply a wax like a car wax to the finished product with a micro fiber cloth every 3 months.. because it’s dirt that causes issues with water attached to it.
I tried this on the rail of my Hans Christian 38T sailboat, using West epoxy as the sealer. I had the same experience, with the varnish finish cracking after about a year in the marina. I’m guessing that the bond between the varnish and the epoxy is not enough to hold during expansion and contraction in the weather.
Wow what a great finish. I bought and used the wrong stuff on mine. Was more of a waxy liquid. Now after two years it’s all flaking off and he rain is warping the planks. Gonna be a pain in the proverbial to remove, refinish the wood and then apply the proper stuff. Love the matte look! I’ll have to see how much the stuff he used will cost me. Table is 2m x 1.2m then there are 2 two seater benches and 2 single chairs all with backs and arm rests.
I am wanting to build a grape trellis using cedar post and wanted to use a outdoor varnish/sealer to make it look good and last. Which one of the following would you use CPES, Epifanes, or total boat epoxy. They are just post like a fence post but wanted them to look nice. If there is another product please let me know what you would use and how to apply.
thanks for the article, i am following a pretty similar approach for a glue lam exterior beam. you wern’t kidding about it taking time.. seems like you need to wait a few days or more sometimes for the epifanes product to harden enough to sand it efficiently, otherwise it just gums up and makes a mess. how’d the finish end up holding up?
I found that it was helpful to lightly scuff up the varnish undercoats before using the epiphanes…It is possible for bubbling up to occur if this is not done…This was also advised by the folks at the Epiphanes site…A really lovely way to do an outdoor finish…People really like it on the outdoor chairs I have put together…Not sure how long it will last?
Same finish as the cedar strip canoe I made. I thought after the fiber glass and epoxy I was done. NOPE It still needed a few coats of this same varnish. Cut it a little too close to vacation time and had to put the varnish on after we used it for 10 days. Seems to be none the worse???? I also made this table and bench set after perusal your article last year and its actually our indoor dining set in the winter. Thanks Marc and Nicole
I vacillate between sealing up outdoor wood with a varnish and using an oil type finish . Over the years i have used more and more oil type finishes that break down in the elements into a thin powdery substance . These type of finishes are incredibly easy to recoat as they only need to be brushed off and re applied with a huge bristle brush that require zero skill. Using a varnish with a lot of solids can involve a lot of preparation . Both are excellent and it just comes down to personal preference .
Mark is a very talented guy and seems to be a great father too. I’ve been following the website for years now with an encore two years ago cause I got sort of annoyed cause back then I was trying to learn woodworking and it felt too comercial. I mean, it felt like everything was sponsored and to be honest most of the stuff he uses is out of reality for most of the people. I also moved from a house to one apartment which limited my access to tools but then I started perusal the articles again not as instructional articles but just for fun. For the entertainment and God, it’s so much better. I can sit and watch and just apreciate it.
You did it right, just the way we finish exterior wood on boats. It’s a lot of work and it takes discipline to apply enough coats, but the beauty is worth it in the end. One suggestion… all finishes wear out in the sun… boats have to be stripped of all that sealer material and resealed every couple of years, because the boat sits in the sun all the time. Keep your table in the shade, and cover it when not in use… that will add significant years to the life of your finish.
For the small outside stuff (armrests, small stools etc) I use Danish oil. I do have to add a light coat once or twice a year, but it’s just a light sanding and wiping it on. I can do all the furniture in well under an hour and it dries within a day, so I just leave them all in place and do it on a day we don’t use them.
Hi Marc thank you for making this article. It was very informative and helpful as I’m planning on getting married this October and idea we’re hoping to do is to have our guest sign a picnic table instead of a wedding book. perusal this article helped me understand in approaching a picnic table and things I should consider prior before presenting it to our guest. If you have any recommendations I would very much appreciate your input. I just subscribed to your website and will be reviewing other articles for reference.
All due respect… It’s great you showed the many steps of doing a project right. But may I get real for a moment? That’s a cheap table. Knotty cedar. Blech. Hardly worth that labor. Had it been teak or mahogany, I could see it. But those canned epoxy and cancergunk products cost an arm and a leg. I bet you spent more on the products than that table cost/is worth. Plus you exposed yourself to horrific carcinogens, dust, back pain, yikes. Now I got no prob with that if the piece had been worth it. But…. I just don’t get it. Had you done a light sanding and 1 or 2 coats of marine spar varnish, your results would have been just fine, and it would have lasted as long, I’ll wager. So… Yeah! I’m being a party pooper! Sorry! Again tho, all respect to you for showing the right products and doing them right.
Not sure if you respond to comments or will even see this but I need help with knots in my walnut coffee table I am making. Can I use any epoxy like gorilla glue epoxy. Can I use cheap epoxy to fill in the knots. I know you use west systems but that is pretty expensive. Any help from anybody would help