In everyday living, a room with plenty of light is more pleasant than a dark room. To ensure a good quality of light in main rooms, consider using one-point perspective (frontal perspective) and two-point perspective in interior sketching. These principles include reversing diagonals to one or the other vanishing point, perpendicular vertical lines to the horizon, and placing windows and doors on buildings in perspective.
In street scenes, it is important to place windows and doors on buildings, and learn how to place trees and sidewalks in perspective. The Perspective Guide can be used to get perfectly straight perspective lines, allowing for the addition of details like window divisions and railings.
Aligning windows horizontally and vertically is crucial for a cohesive and visually pleasing exterior. Consistent alignment enhances curb appeal and helps create a visually appealing home. Window design and placement can be a tricky part of remodels, as they play an important role within each room. High-level windows, for example, would look good from inside and outside as they are symetrical around the center line of the house.
In conclusion, understanding how to draw a two-point perspective is essential for creating realistic interior design and architectural sketches. Aligning windows horizontally and vertically can enhance curb appeal and overall aesthetic appeal.
📹 The secret behind the perfect kitchen layout is…windows?!
Finding the perfect kitchen layout is tough, especially when your windows or doors aren’t helping. I walk through two kitchen …
Do you fit windows from inside or outside?
Windows can be installed both inside and outside, but professional installers typically install them from the outside to minimize disruption and ensure proper seal and weatherproofing. This is especially important when replacing windows, as it can be messy and challenging to handle in cold and wet weather conditions. It is essential to consider the installation method when choosing a window installation method.
Where should windows be positioned?
Window placement in a home office is crucial to avoid glare on the computer screen and avoid blinding sunlight. Position the window four or more feet above the ground and face north or south instead of east or west to avoid harsh sunlight. In the kitchen, choose a window that is easy to open and close, such as a casement window that can be opened outwards with a crank. For a large viewing window in the living room, ensure the view is worthwhile and not just a busy street view. Position the window in a location that provides a view of the outdoors to avoid feeling awkward looking directly at a busy street.
What is the proper placement of windows or lighting?
Window placement is crucial for a home’s natural light and connection to the outside world. South-facing windows provide ample light and passive solar heat in winter, while north-facing windows offer consistent, glare-free light. Large windows facing scenic landscapes can create stunning focal points, while smaller windows may be more appropriate for less desirable views. Window placement also impacts energy efficiency, as large windows can let in unwanted heat in summer and allow it to escape in winter.
To mitigate these effects, consider using overhangs or awnings for south-facing windows to block high summer sun while allowing in lower winter sun. For east and west-facing windows, use smaller windows or add external shading devices.
Do you measure for window screens inside or outside?
To measure window screens, first measure the width of the U-Channel, which is typically 5/16″ on most single-hung windows. Measure the U-Channel distance from the inside of one U-Channel to the outer edge of the opposing U-Channel. Adjust the measurements slightly to account for the difference between the window opening and the screen. In most cases, subtract ⅛” from the measurement, but if you plan to install any hardware on the U-Channel, subtract ¼”. This will ensure the screen fits over the lip on both sides and slide into place.
How do you position a window?
Proper ventilation is essential for a comfortable indoor environment. Cross-ventilation, such as placing windows on opposite walls or aligning with prevailing winds, improves air circulation and reduces mechanical cooling reliance. This maintains a normal temperature. For a harmonious design, consider architectural symmetry when positioning windows, as it adds order and elegance to the home’s facade, enhancing its curb appeal.
How do I align two windows?
To snap an app in Windows, press and hold the Windows Logo Key + Arrow. Release the Key to position the Snap. Use Snap Assist to fill the layout with other windows or apps you want to snap together on the same screen. This feature improves productivity by sharing multiple app windows in a single screen. Different layouts with different sizes are available, allowing you to maximize the use of your favorite apps. To use Snap, select any header and it will open to display more content. Predetermined layouts are available to snap all open windows.
Do windows have to be perfectly level?
A window should be installed level, vertically and horizontally, and flush against the wall to ensure proper functioning. Tilting the window can affect its operation. Weep holes at the bottom of the window frame allow water to drain out, but if not installed level or slightly angled, it can compromise these holes, leading to larger issues like rotting. Windows should fit perfectly within the home frame to prevent drafts, water infiltration, and rot.
Where should my windows be facing?
The Garden’s motto, “right plant, right place”, emphasizes the importance of selecting the right window for indoor plants. South-facing windows receive the most light, making them the hottest. North-facing windows receive the least light, making them weak and cool. East-facing windows receive light in the morning, making them weak and cool. West-facing windows receive light in the afternoon, making them strong and hot.
For indoor plants, consider the Foster Succulent Garden, which features cactus and succulents in bright, sunny spots. Heavy bloomers like high light, and anything that demands high light will perform best in a south-facing window. Conversely, for plants that require low light, consider the entry of Kathryn’s Garden, Irma’s Garden, and Kapnick Brazilian Garden. These plants thrive in low-light situations, making them suitable for north-facing windows.
In conclusion, the Garden’s motto emphasizes the importance of selecting the right window for indoor plants.
Do you measure a house from the inside or outside?
Square footage should be measured from the exterior of a building, then adjusted for interior elements like stairs and dead space. To determine each room’s square footage, measure and label each room individually. While using a square footage calculator may seem like a high school geometry lesson, understanding how square footage is calculated for different shapes like square, rectangle, or circle is beneficial. This process ensures accurate and accurate measurements of the building’s square footage.
Should windows be measured from inside or outside?
Measure a window from the outside of the building, not the inside. Avoid measuring the window frame, as it may not fit properly. Measure the aperture opening where the window is fitted. Imagine removing an old window from the wall, leaving a hole. Scrape away insulation and rendering to reach the opening’s edge. Hold the tape measure straight and taut for accurate measurements. For larger windows, use two people.
Do windows need to be aligned?
The integration of design elements within the context of home décor is of paramount importance, particularly in the case of windows and doors. The configuration of these elements is frequently intended to preserve the property’s aesthetic appeal from the exterior.
📹 Should A DIYer Fit Windows?
Our hardwood windows were falling to bits, so in this video we need to install some replacement windows but we’re on a tight …
Love your website❤ I have a question based on the colors you used in this article: I’m building a new kitchen with black & white cabinets. Island with sink separating open plan living room and back wall with stove, refrigerator & cabinets. Lots of south facing windows on end side, two windows flanking stove. Black floors, white walls. Question: should I use black cabinets on island and white on back wall cabinets or vice versa? Not sure of the perspective result from the living room. Thanks!
if you have large windows covering the entire front of the cooking range, do you even need to turn on the range hood if the windows are open? is the range hood even effective if the hypothetical windows are open as it would seem the hood will just suck the air from the windows instead of the fumes from the range.
I left my job (long time coming and well needed) after ending furlough in 2020. Decided to move back in with my mom. Her whole house needed work, but mostly her kitchen and windows. Within a few months I’d graduated from the YouTube school of diy! 😂 With your content along with many of the other heavy hitters I’m now Close to restoring her entire house, have fitted a few of my mates kitchens, and I’m now looking to buy my own piece of land to build me own home. I replaced/fixed all her 40 year old mahogany window frames. Even stripped all her windows down to the bare glass, aluminium, replaced the desiccant and they are like new. It’s crazy how articles like yours help people like me. I think I’ve learned more from YouTube in the last 5 years than I did in the 30 year’s previous. My mates watch sports and I watch you fitting windows! 😂
Excellent article and great job! Last weekend I replaced windows in my 70 year old home. Of all the reno jobs it was the easiest EXCEPT I ordered 100mm (4 inch) reveals as I measured a 100mm sill on the inside of the old windows. Seemed logical to me. The new ones came with 100mm timber reveals but 25mm is within the aluminium frame to only 75mm was “revealed” as a sill. The old ones were actually 125mm wide. Had to swap out for the old reveals. That’s a little tricky but removing, fitting and flashing windows is easy.
Tools and Materials Used In This article: Glazing Packers: amzn.to/3IkvYTB (Amazon UK) geni.us/lNo89H (Amazon Worldwide) Builders Silicone: amzn.to/3oaa3aT (Amazon UK) geni.us/RsBBi (Amazon Worldwide) Suction cups: amzn.to/3MvP1g9 (Amazon UK) geni.us/ubz7M (Amazon Worldwide) Window fitting tool set: amzn.to/45iMUE7 (Amazon UK) geni.us/8pGCI (Amazon Worldwide) Expanding Foam amzn.to/3pGbsX3 (Amazon UK) geni.us/uabl (Amazon Worldwide) Concrete Screws amzn.to/3M21bvK (Amazon UK) geni.us/SrvEOA (Amazon Worldwide) The Aiden Project on YouTube: youtube.com/channel/UCuhwDJ7olVHbV6tYzpVmIVg 0:00 Intro 0:28 How to measure for windows 2:00 Removing old windows 3:14 Attaching window sills 4:03 Does it fit?? 5:11 Installation 6:19 Glazing a window frame 6:35 Why toe & heel a window? 7:21 Installing the glass 8:55 Glazing beads 9:36 Cutting away the render 9:57 Bought some glazing tools 10:42 Rotten sill and render damage 11:04 No lintel? 11:24 Does the second window fit? 11:37 Toe and heeling close up! 11:55 Sealing with expanding foam 12:33 Render & brick repairs 13:38 Making some uPVC trim 14:27 Painting 14:42 Sealing with silicone 14:58 Inside finishing 15:16 Should a DIYer fit windows? Regulations! 16:14 How to order windows 16:50 Pricing 🔨 MY TOOLS 🔨 For links to the tools I use, plus some of my favourite consumables, finishes and more see links below. As an Amazon Associate I may earn a small commission from qualifying purchases UK affiliate store:
About a month ago I put a upvc window & door into the end wall of my garage/workshop (including cutting the hole & putting the lintel), this article would have been very helpful beforehand 🙂 It was a much simpler process than I expected and much much cheaper than having it done “professionally”, I keep finding this with building projects. We did buy from modern upvc windows as they’re not far from us, it was a very easy experience and I’ll happily buy from them again! With the windows in the main house we had a similar experience with the wooden frames and conservatory, I like wood but for windows UPVC is a much better choice!
Funny as you mention about fixing into brick….. my windows were installed a few years back when we rented the house, and one window was causing cracks in wall and internal sill…. inspected and they’d put concrete screws into the mortar. Idiots!! Refixed and now it’s much better. Also done my own composite door – getting sick of tradies who are crap and are meant to be experts in their field. FENSA can get lost!!! I’ll do a better and more secure job myself just like you have Keith. Also thanks for the food safe wax – my new kitchen drawer units look nice even if I haven’t fitted them into the unit yet!! 🤣
If you have more windows to do have a look out for Soudal flexifoam, it’s a lower expansion foam specifically designed for window installation and a lot more flexible than regular foam. It’s blue in colour (my son nicknamed it Smurf Sh!t) and is generally a lot easier to handle due to its lower expansion rate.
Nice job Keith. I’ve fitted a few windows and doors myself and as you say its a straight forward DIY job as long as you take it carefully. With care a crowbar works well for lifting the glass to toe, heel and pack them out. Fitting the internal glazing trim is probably the hardest part of the whole job, I find its easier to fit both ends in first then progressively tap them into position working towards the centre with a soft headed hammer. Mind, fitting the beading to two circular windows was a right nightmare, I ended up trimming a bit off the beading after spending half an hour chasing them round trying to get them all clipped in !
Really enjoyed this one Keith. I remember repairing some wooden mock sash windows on our previous house. It was going to be way too expensive to get someone to build & install replacements, so I decided to buy more unnecessary tools (table saw!) and had a go at chopping out the rotten sill, and even an entire corner on two of the windows, where I had to create profiles to match, slotting in to the frame in situ, before getting replacement glass units to fit (4 in each window, all different sizes of course 🤦♂️). Your fun with the mallet brought back memories – tapping in pins to fix wooden beading with a hammer while trying not to smash the glass was not fun. A mammoth job for a total amateur, plus took so much longer than a pro, but the satisfaction of finishing it was immense. Plus I got a new power tool 😆. I certainly won’t hesitate to try what you’ve done with PVC windows if the time comes on our current house though. Thanks for putting the effort into sharing 👍🏻
Hi Keith, just came across this article and I can second Modern UPVC windows as I used them for my replacement patio door and back door, Less than £2000 for both yet a Norwich company who would probably come “First” if you googled “home improvements” wanted over £4500 just for the patio door and nearly £2000 for the back door!!!! PS I am near the stripey lighthouse….
The style of the original window, in 2 pieces, with simple hinges on the side, opening out, is the perfect solution to be able to open the window fully, and you can clean the windows on both side from the outside. And you can keep the plants, etc. in your window when you open them fully or partially. I’ve tried to live a short time with windows like the new ones in this article, and I hated the plastic look and all the space the windows took up inside the rooms when fully opened. It’s great though, if you live in a place where you have bars in front of your windows. But this is just my personal opinion, and if good quality plastic, they can last and look good for years and with very little maintenance, whereas wooden frames require more maintenance, and the correct oil or paint inside and outside, to not only look good but also for them to last for decades. (Some more than 100 years, even here in the north European climate!)
Ended up decent👍🏻 A lot of completely unnecessary remedial work required through your complete handyman approach in butchering out the old windows, and I’m not going to lie and blow smoke up your bum about it. ( seeing you crowbar directly off that brick at around 2:55 made me feel like when the cops pull you over! ‘Cringe… oh god this will be bad’ just NO! Never!) In future you want to be cutting EVERYTHING, or at least the cill and get a feel if it will all then pull into the space that used to be the window, do you get that? NO FORCE exerted out or in towards bricks / render/ anything A nice clean extraction is the idea, you can’t help loose brick/ render/plaster but you can definitely minimise creating it. I just found this by chance, seeing your other article about a miter guide and fence for it that looks bloody brilliant! And I’ve just ordered that exact set up! Thank you 🙏
Fensa is a joke, the installer self certifies their work. Based on the windows fitted by a large, well-known window and conservatory company from East Anglia, that certificate was worthless. They obviously “guesstimated” the size of the windows, which were way too small and just covered the gaps with trims. An 8ft x 4ft high window was secured with just 6 woodscrews, not even frame fixings. I fitted my replacement windows myself and will buy an indemnity, which is about £30.
This handle configuration seems confusing to me. Alle the tip/tilt windows I have ever had/seen here in Germany will fully open on the first setting (horizontal) and tilt in the second setting. Which is intuitive, since you pull the handle in the direction in which the window will open. You know: When the handle is oriented like a door-handle, the window will open like a door.
Nice to see you fitting the bead in correctly. I work for glass systems the company that made those glass units. I’m a quality technician for them and you wouldn’t believe the amount of time “professional ” fitter’s scrap the hammer along the glass and scratch it then try to claim new units for free because there scratched 😂😂😂
Really good article and you clearly did your homework before you tackled it. But I’ll say it… You definitely dont need a certificate for your windows being fitted. My father has been a window fitter for 30 years and never once had to deal with the any sort of sogn off. Having also bought 3 properties, not a single solicitor has mentioned a certificate regarding windows either
Does anyone in the comments know why people in England need to buy the frame and glass separately and assemble it themselves compared to just buying a fully assembled window and screwing it into the opening? This seems like a lot of unnecessary work unless it’s not possible to buy the same type of windows available for purchase in America and Canada.
Nice vid. Fitting windows is not very difficult and it’s definitely worth doing it yourself if you are a bit handy, you can save a fortune. I did an A-energy rated bay widow for £700, and the cheapest quote I’ve seen for that fitted is £3k. If you are getting windows signed off by building control I’d suggest discusing it with the inspector first, and sending them the quotation spec for checking before ordering the frames. That way you can be sure there won’t be any issues. Also most window fitters I’ve watched set the sill on it’s own first, using packers stuck with blobs of silicone, then when you drop the frame in on top of the (already level) sill it should be plumb all round. Then simply fix the frame to the walls and fix to the sill from the top.
I have replaced all of my windows over the last 5 years. We are lucky that we have a local salvage yard selling brand new double glazed windows. These have been wrongly ordered/made or cancelled orders, and come complete with handles, vents, sills, and additional frame extenders if needed. Our windows fit from the inside, as the inside reveal is larger than the outside. I covered the uPVC and glass with the sticky film for covering carpets before spraying the foam because of previously getting foam on frames & glass. My windows are done in excess of British standards & more than meet local building regs. We don’t intend ever selling the property, so by the time we snuff it (with luck and a fair wind) it will be time for the new owner to replace them anyway. I would recommend, if the glazing units are already installed, get someone to help lifting them in to place. I did some of mine on my own, and probably shouldn’t have as the glass probably doubles the weight. Great article though. I imagine it will help anyone who was considering DIY window replacement make their mind up.
My house is “Stucco”. Some time back someone musta had a Stucco Biz in this area or came through like an Aluminum Siding scammer, as many houses have similar looks. The stucco is shaped to look like cut stone. BUT, they did this by nailing the angled tinwork for openings and metal lath over the existing siding AND trim. Been a nightmare when I have had to replace some of the trim, a sill, and a few windows.
When measuring windows, always measure inside and outside. I’ve been to jobs where it’s been double plasterboarded inside, so trims on the outside it was. Also there’s a lot of ‘professional’ Fensa registered companies, who are absolutely terrible at fitting windows. I’ve been to jobs where the big companies have for windows, and they’ve blown out or the doors don’t open anymore and the companies refuses to come out to repair them🤦🏽♂️ I’d always recommend doing it yourself or getting a trusted well reviewed local builder in, and not the big window companies who charge 10x what your average builder would
On the indemnity policy I sold a house 3 years ago the indemnity on windows was £90, it was £180 to have building control come out. If you go the building control route make sure the stickers are left on the glass for them to see. Also use common sense if a window opens fully and can be a fire escape don’t change it for a fixed panel!
I bought a house in January UK & I know the window was fitted previous year, it is blown & has a massive air gap In it, it’s supposed to be new 🙄 anyway great job on yours! I am curious on your & anyone else who cares to comment opinion, I want to replace it with a wooden window like the one you took out, what is anyones advice about rules regs and me doing it myself, just basic Diyer, thanks
Beautiful job, sir! That style of window isn’t readily available in the US which is too bad because I love the versatility of how they open. The price you paid for those, less than a $1,000 USD, seems like a great deal. I recently installed 3 casement-style windows into brick openings on the ground floor and it took me way longer than your job. But when I did the the upper story I had the manufacturer install them. The crew completed 5 windows in exactly 6 hours and left no mess.
You don’t appear to have pan flashings in the UK. In New Zealand we would put a galvanised pan flashing under the window to stop water penetrating the house or these days we use heavy sticker flashings and use silicon to create a pan shape so any water that penetrates is caught and directed out. It would have protected the house as the wooden frame gave up.
the window glass will probably need to be repacked after a while as they can settle depending on how often you open the windows. also, you don’t need to put masking tape on the window frame and wall jambs don’t overfill the gap with expanding foam and don’t touch it until it dries then it will scrape the excess foam easily and cleanly
I was looking for sealant for upvc window frames as some of the well known brands do say in small writing that can only be used internally on upvc windows which is no good to me, I need something for externally to seal to upvc window frame. I was going to ask for upvc external window frame sealants, so you have helped me in that respect.Great vid. I have subscribed
Nice work Keith, those tilt & turn are a good option on ground floor windows where standard casements are restricted opening for safety reasons ! Classic Keith Brown – rips out cr@ppy old window frame “lots of hardwood here I can re-use !” and, I made this trim piece from a UPVC profile I rescued from a skip – you knew that would come in handy one day – Man after my own heart !
Thank you so much for posting this article! It could not have been more timely. I had a broken gearbox and shoot bolt assembly on the window of my office and the parts to repair arrive today. I was struggling to find a high quality article to help me refit the sash I had just removed. I hadn’t removed the glass first and it was so heavy. Your article gave me the idea to remove the sealed unit and fit the sash on its own and refit the glass after! Its now 2130 and after 2 trips to screwfix this evening the window is now refitted an perfect. Thank you so so so much!!!!!
Not watched the whole article yet, but what about the fensa certificate? You cant sell the home without one. ok, watched the article and ive learnt something. I myself have just upgraded my old glazing 20mm gap glass to low e-glass/ argon filled. I wish i had gone to tripple glazed new windows, after perusal your article
Can I ask why you went with the style and opening you did? As in a single side hung window. I also live in a bungalow and I so all the windows have a top small (1/3) top outward opening window with a fixed (2/3) pane below for security reasons so we can leave the windows open at night or if we go out (for a short time) or so we can leave them open when it rains. I would also think that your cats might escape. Not to say you’ve made a mistake I’m just interested in your thinking. I also fitted the new window myself and having to estimate the size with external render and plasterboard internally was not fun. I have external wall insulation so we had to order extra deep sills too.
That was very interesting. I’ve never heard of FENSA certificate requirement before but did a quick Google and see that it has been around since 2002. I bought my current house in 2016 and despite having a RICS surveyor do a full survey prior to me signing the dotted line, and a very thorough solicitor, I cannot remember anything about FENSA certificates being mentioned anywhere. Maybe it is a common ‘oversight’?
Enjoyed the article. Also worth noting you don’t have to have trickle vents in replacment windows. Building control “Like to see them” on replacement windows if the existing windows have them but notice the word “Like”. Trickle vents are pointless and Building regs changed a few years ago from when they were compulsory. No logic in having thermally efficient double glazing,draught excluders and then cutting a whole through the frame for a trickle vent which lets draughts in………. Also toughened safety glazing in windows within 300mm of a door and up to 1500mm from finished floor level in doors. 🙂
We’ve just had most of our windows converted to UPVC double glazing. Not very common in Australia! 6 large 3m x 2m windows for a cost of $35k (£18). They were made in the UK and shipped over. It took 6 months! Very expensive but the change to heating and cooling bills and outside sound deadening is amazing. Great article Keith.