This article discusses the best wood sanders for advanced woodworking projects, including fast wood removal and flat surfaces like wooden doors. The best sanders depend on specific tasks and include sanding blocks, random orbital sanders, orbital sanders, oscillating spindle sanders, file sanders, detail sanders, and belt sanders.
For wood projects requiring a smooth surface, a powerful belt sander or random orbital sander with coarse grit sandpaper is recommended. For rough, unplaned wood slabs, a linear sander and cross grain sanding with 320 or higher grit can be used. An orbital sander or hand sanding are the best options. Palm grip sanders are a great first choice when building out your wood sander collection.
The Black and Decker 55w Mouse Detail Sander 240V is a great beginner tool and is sold at a low price point. Ets 125 is a great random orbit sander for interior work, while Rts 400 is suitable for rectangular pads. For wall sanding, use 80-120-180 or 100-150-220 sandpaper.
Using suction keeps the surface clean by removing dust created by sanding. The SurfPrep 3X4 Electric Ray Sander is one of the best sanders for furniture makeovers. Before sanding a previously painted piece of wood furniture, it is essential to follow proper techniques and follow safety precautions.
📹 Painful lessons learned – Random Orbit vs. 1/4-Sheet Sanders
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📹 How To Sand and Finish Wood Floors
A step by step video for a home owner on how to use various wood floor sanders, and how to apply the finish.
▼EXPAND THIS SECTION FOR IMPORTANT INFO▼ Bow featherboards- Uniquely designed to reduce table saw kickback like no other featherboard I have ever used! amzn.to/430ldhv LIKE THE BACKGROUND? My hand tool collection includes premium tools from Bridge City Tool Works. They are as wonderful to use as they are to look at: bridgecitytools.com/ Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around! (If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission) Sanding Tutorial articles: – Random Orbital Sander Tricks: youtu.be/0uvX4Xm2Y0I – Comprehensive power sanding lesson: youtu.be/qDYPGgjQmF4 – Sanding between coats of finish: youtu.be/Q0lEM_BOgmo – When to change your sandpaper: youtu.be/5RKwsqccleI – When to use variable speed: youtu.be/v2uR3Qefmcg – A game changing new sander: youtu.be/uHkatzYGQeY – Using sanding blocks: youtu.be/EyBpO0S-SoI – Some other useful links: -More articles on our website: stumpynubs.com/ -Subscribe to our e-Magazine: stumpynubs.com/browse-and-subscribe/ -Check out our project plans: stumpynubs.com/product-category/plans/ -Instagram: instagram.com/stumpynubs/ -Twitter: twitter.com/StumpyNubs ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE CHEAP TOOLS★ -123 Blocks: lddy.no/vpij -Mechanical Pencils: amzn.to/2PA7bwK -Lumber pencil: amzn.to/2QtwZjv -Pocket Measuring Tape: amzn.to/2kNTlI9 -Irwin Drill Bit Gauge: amzn.
Obviously, I use both, depending on the circumstance, but one thing I learned about random orbitals early on was keep them away from interior edges and corners. They make nice deep grooves with the side of that disc spinning like a saw blade across a piece. I use a 1/4 sheet sander or hand sand interior edges with a sanding block now.
I work in a custom cabinetry shop. We use the Mirka System with both a random orbit sander and an orbital square sander. Our typical process is rough lumber gets sanded starting with 80, then 120, then 180. At this point we prime it. After priming, we buff the item using 320 before the finish coat of paint. The random orbital sander gets most of the work done, but the square orbital is great for inside corners such as the panels on shaker doors.
I’ve worked with both types of sanders, including a small 1inch triangular orbital sander. I’m a painter and I also do casework. Currently we are sanding off clear coat and stain from cabinets and restaining and clear coating. I’ve learned to really like orbital sanders but it does take more time to learn the right technique, it is sometimes necessary since we have to work around hinges, to get corners and whatnot as opposed to a round sander.
In recent years, I have moved to almost exclusively using sanding mesh rather than sandpaper. Dust collection works much better and the mesh is much less likely to clog. I find the mesh has a much longer life, particularly because it can be easily cleaned and reused, while cleaning paper increases wear and limits sandpaper life. (This may vary between brands, so consider manufacturer quality!) Mesh can be purchased in 4 1/4″ rolls, which is very cost effective for palm (i.e. finish) sanders, or in disks. A wide range of grits is available. I guess what I most like is that rough sanding goes quicker with mesh because it takes much longer to clog and is quick and easy to clear. That combined with the long life and reusability makes mesh both time saving and cost effective.
I have so far been too cheap to buy a random orbital, so 1/4 sheet has been my go to for finish sanding for 20+ years. In my experience, keeping the sander moving relatively rapidly, ending your session with passes with the grain, and stepping down slowly through grit sizes has yielded the best results. Don’t ever stop moving the sander, let it get up to speed before touching it to wood, and keep it flat coming off edges are my best tips.
many moons ago when I was a young lad, I was working as a Mechanic for a cabinet shop, whenever I had all the vehicles running, he didn’t want be to go somewhere else, so he had me sanding cabinet faces, all we had was the 1/4 sheet sanders, I think it was a very fine grit of 400 or more, than years later when I started playing with wood more then metal one of the first things I picked up was a 1/4 sheet sander, I used it for some time, before someone gave me a old orbiting sander, which I used for 4 years or so before buying a brand new one, which is old now, but all 3 still run when needed, Must admit I’m became a fan of the 20v dw210 that I use almost daily.
in our shop we use the 1/4 sheet (we call it a pad sander) for round shapes because it won’t leave facets or flat spots like the random orbit will because it has a spongy pad that will form to the shape of the wood, we use the random orbit on flat surfaces and concave surfaces using the round shape of the random orbit at an angle to match the concave shape. hand sand for final finish
I just built a really nice fireplace surround from floor to ceiling for a customer. They ordered a mantle off of the internet, just a cheap hollow one with a French cleat that was horrible,The swirl marks were everywhere!!!! Like worst I’ve ever seen,yea and it was stained already. Spent more time fixing it than what they originally paid . I’m not going to do the best work I can on a beautiful focal piece in a great room with a mantle that looks like a 5 year old built it . Anyway love the articles makes my day when you post !
As a UK decorator for over 40 years I have used all types and sizes of sanders from the small triangle sanders up to walk behind floor sanders. I bought a Dewalt cordless random orbit sander as that was the only cordless sander they made, which I was quite happy with apart from 2 things, running cost and not being able to get into corners or up against carpet. Then they released the cordless 1/4 sheet sander, so I bought one from Amazon USA as it was much cheaper. What a difference, I wish that they had brung it out first then I wouldn’t have the 2 sanders. The differences are that the RO does a better job it is about 3 times the cost to use. The dust extraction even with a vacuum hooked up is not as good with the 1/4 sheet. Having said that the 1/4 sheet sander is my go to tool. I use the rolls of sandpaper which work out fairly economical. I would recommend the RO for workshop use and the 1/4 for on the job use. The 1/4 sheet is more versatile so it;s a winner for me. On a footnote for workshop use stick to corded tools to save money and to keep consistant power. Great informative articles.
I somehow ended up with 2 5″ random orbital sanders, and a third one was bundled with another tool. I was saving it to either sell or give away, until a gnarly recycled wood project caused me to destroy the pads on the other two. You enlightened me as to how to avoid that problem, but I broke out the third one to finish the project, so now have three. I am now experimenting with keeping all three with course, medium, and fine discs ready to rock. As for dust collection, all three have different sized ports, and of course none fit any hoses that I have available. Instead I use the small dust bags that came with them, and when the project has the finish drying on it, I take the three out on the porch and blow them all clean with compressed air. So far this seems to be a practical solution. Thanks for your informative articles. Project next is your router plane, mine made from laminated ash, using the Veritas blades you mentioned. In a long life, this is the most fun I have ever had with all my clothes on!
Great article, very helpful for those who are not familiar with the differences. As far as random orbital sanders go l finally bought a Festool version. Best thing l did, it works well and continues to do so. I found the off shelf domestic brands all had the same issue, they just plain wear out and fail within eight to ten months. Totally agree that the final sanding should be by hand, with the grain. It makes such a great difference to the final finish.
I use both types of sanders but for different purposes. I use the quarter-sheet sander because of the economics of sheet sandpaper and to sand small smaller pieces with curves, in corners, and over edges. I only seem to use the random orbital sander with finer grits on flat surfaces like table tops, shelves, and cabinet sides. It is a good practice to sand before assembly whenever possible, especially the insides of boxes.
I use both at my sheet plastics fabrication job. For a pristine edge that you can see clearly through use the random orbital, 180, followed by 360, followed by 400+ with the 1/4 sheet sander. Once saw marks and the entire of all edges have a consistently smooth matt surface, then buff it with a generous amount of that clay like buffing compound. 👍 Good article, I’ve been wondering because I only use the random at home on wood, then hands sand with the grain after
I use both types of sanders. On my 1/4 sheet sander, I learned to hard way to be very careful about the type of sandpaper I use. A major brand changed the formula for the backing to give it more grip. Unfortunately the high grip material became a heat activated glue on my sander’s foam platten and stuck fast to it. When I tried to remove the worn sandpaper, it tore off chunks of the platten. I posted a complaint about it on Lowe’s website and the sandpaper manufacturer contacted me and then paid to replace my sander part. That was very nice of them, but now I choose sandpaper without a grippy backing.
I have two half sheets and a quarter sheet sander and once I started using a random orbit sander I got away from those more and more because the orbital sander more. I did like to use the old half sheet on reclaimed wood because it had a large orbital stroke and I could put a piece of old 80 grit belt on it and it would just keep going. The newer half sheet I bought has a smaller stroke so I never used it as much, but on finer stuff I liked using it for grits in the 220+ range because it does a good job of polishing without leaving as much swirl because the grit is so light and it doesn’t cut as quickly as the R/O
An important thing to consider when looking at a 1/4 sheet sander is how the paper is attached. I had an old black and decker that had a really good clamping design, it wore out and I purchased a Makita since I have a lot of Makita tools, the clamp system is a real pain. I am still looking for a better clamping system. Good program.
I have both, but I only use the orbital for really rough sanding. Next up is the 1/4 sheet sander, making sure to only move forward and backward. Never side to side, then my final sand I will hand sand. My orbital is more than 10 years old so it may need to be replaced with a higher quality sander. I use to think that there was not much difference but I don’t think that now. Using a high quality sandpaper is a must too. If I had the money I would buy a DA for sanding. I used one when I worked in a body shop. I don’t think they are the same as an orbital.
My thing about sanders and manufacturers is that particulates from sanding, both from the material and the abrasive stock, are airborne and can damage your lungs/airways. So why aren’t all with some HEPA filtration bag or all have remote-on vacuum controls (e.g. Festool) ? Oh and nice haircut, Stumpy… looking professional! 🙂
I’ve made a few boxes in the last 27 years. The sequence of doing the total build is important, and when you do the sanding between steps! Sanding at the right time, as you go, is important, too. I rarely make one box at a time, usually 3 to 8 boxes at a time. It is more efficient doing all the boxes at each step, as you go. THE STEPS I USE: 1. Cutting of all the pieces, minimizing set ups. 2. Inside sanding of all the piece, 3. Assembly of each box, one at a time until all are assembled. 4. Finish sanding the outside of each box, one at a time. 5. Parting off the lids of each box, then plane or sanding the cut parted edges for perfect fit. 6. Adding hardwares, a box at a time. 7. The last act is then final finish sanding with sanding blocks as required ready for finish coats! Then applying finish coats of finish. I like Tung oil used inside and out, usually All boxes done and finished at the same time. SANDING EQUIPMENT: A. Sanding Blocks and Pad sanders, Sand paper, cut in 4 pieces (two different ways) for pad sanders and block hand sanders. A. two or more Block sanders, one for each of the various grits of sand paper to be used one for each grit. hand sanding blocks or more 1 for each 120, 180, 220 and 380. Two pad sanders for 120 and 220 grit. One random orbital sanders for 100 grit. I run thru the grits on each piece at a time until done, then all of them done. After I have the 6 pieces/box (times the number of boxes to build) cut, and everything is to size, I finish the sand the insides, then after assembled I finish sand the outside of the box.
Second, wahoo! I recently put in a new outside deck, good australian spotted gum, a hardwood. Thought I’d be smart and sand it down initially with a belt sander, all good…moved down to an orbital, again, all good. Then I got focussed on a really smooth finish, and worked it over with a random orbital sander down to 240 grain paper…ultra smooth finish, could have been a table top. Sealed it off with deck oil. Next morning, first few steps on it, I went head over tail and landed on my butt. The random orbital had totally taken the grain down to nearly zero, and it was impossible to get any purchase with shoes on, even worse when wet. Back to 180 grain paper and a run over with the belt sander, again. Lesson learnt.
The model of sander is very important, while I have a bunch of sanders, each one has a place, the two that do 90% of my work are a Makita 3×24 belt sander and a little 1/4 sheet Dewalt. There is very good reason why the Makita is the industrial standard in cabinet shops, Balance and Durability. The quarter sheet was picked up on sale, it is a yellow version of the French designed Elue . I lucked out, it is great little sander. I use 120 grit belts almost exclusively . If I want to cut a bunch, I’ll use a disc sander. Great for trimming doors, BTW. After the belt sander it’s the quarter sheet. The quarter sheet gets 220 stearate coated. Then between varnish coats, 220 grit again. That little Elue/Dewalt is now a Porter Cable model. 120 and 220 grits only. A power tool can span grit sizes so you don’t have to change. My 5″ Bocsh RO is great for applying wax and then polishing cars. It takes all the work out of it. It’s worthwhile purchase just for that, alone. It does get the odd sanding job, I’m on my third plate in fact.
I use a 1/4 sheet sander by Bosch. It came with a four punch base to puncture the sandpaper and aids with dust collection when hooked up. I don’t use it a lot but pigtails are minimal. It’s not super aggressive, easy on hands, and light enough to perform well on edges and getting into corners (carefully) with a ROS can’t. I use a Bosch 5″ ROS, one of their cheaper ones) which works fine on narrow stock and is reasonably aggressive and ergonomic, but can definitely leave swirls but it comes in at a great price point. I don’t use the dust pickup it’s terrible. Again I have my sander here hooked up to a shop vac. I always hand sand after with American made sanding blocks. I also have a dual action Bosch 6″ GET75 that’s way cheaper than the high end sanders and works best on wide stock with power dust collection working great even on the 6 hole pads. I’m a hobbyist. I have a half sheet sander, ancient, that has dual action circular and in-line. I use it occasionally on wood that’s prone to swirls. So in seen e, I like the flexibility that multiple tools afford.
Before the ROS hit the mass market I bought a Makita 1/4 sheet sander. That little machine beat my hands to death and I pretty much hated it. Priorities changed and I didn’t do woodworking for 15 years, then priorities changed again and I restarted woodworking. By that time prices on the ROS had dropped significantly and I got one. Holy moly Batman, what a difference. I also got the Ryobi mouse sander and it’s much more pleasant to use than the Makita. The Ryobi and the Dewalt are easy to adapt to the shop vac.
I have an old 1/2 sheet Ingersohl with a setting for strictly reciprocal, although I wouldn’t be surprised if even that is just tiny, tiny circles. It does leave a really nice finish, though. It took awhile, but I have come to believe the key to sanding is that if it’s hard work, you’re doing it wrong. These days, I’m not afraid of coarser grits. and I have gotten good results going through a progression from belt sander to random orbital to 1/4 to 1/2 to hand. That said, I currently aspire to go from plane to finish, so any sanding feels like a compromise. An exception, though, is when I carve pipes, My preferred finish for them is sanding with Micro-mesh pads, which leave a polished finish on really hard materials like briar. The pads are also popular with pen turners. And yes, I have used a belt sander for roughing out a pipe bowl, once or twice.
I build cedar strip canoes that requires a lot of sanding. I have used a PorterCable random orbital sander for decades. It has served me well. I am working on a n 18’ cedar strip canoe now and am ready to start sanding. You know what sander I am going to use with an automatic shop vacuum. Use the sander and the vacuum comes on.
I do like the 1/4s, tips are: 1) Don’t puncture the paper on the finish run, sharp edges on the holes can bugger everything up, 2) You will need to wear paper in to begin with, the swirl pigtails are usually left by the prominent bits of grit. You dress a grinding stone, dress your paper, even on some scrap wood or other flat surface. 3) Buy good quality paper ( wet and dry I like) and use the clamps, change the paper regularly, it’s cheaper so changes mean faster work.
This is definitely not sponsored (since I don’t have or want a youtube website 🙂 That same feather board saved me yesterday! Where did I first hear about them? Right here on your website! I am a FIRM believer in them. Thank you for bringing them to my attention and thank you to the folks that came up with the idea… I know for a fact that I wouldn’t be typing this today if I had not been using one yesterday. Please keep doing what you do!
I use a half sheet sander. It has been my observation that the biggest mistake people make is moving the sander too fast. Years ago I read an American woodworker magazine that you should move the sander at about the same pace that you can read a page 8″ wide. If you try that you will find that it is very slow, but it does not leave pigtails at that pace. I find that following up with Hand standing in the grain direction is necessary no matter what sander you use.
Back in the 80’s there was really only one 1/4 sheet sander available that I ever saw, and it was made by Makita. I don’t know about the tiny circular marks on the workpiece, but I can tell you it did a heck of a job vibrating your hand. Probably better at vibrating your hand than sanding anything. I think this might have been the only tool I threw away. Replaced it with what I think might have been the first powered (as opposed to air driven) random orbit (or dual action, we called it) sander by Porter Cable. What a joy, what a difference. I wish I had all those hours I wasted giving myself nerve damage in the hand with that Makita sander back now.
My first sander was a third-sheet I got for $5 used. It was basically worthless. Bought a Craftsman 1/4 sheet soon after. I did end up with the pigtails in a couple of tabletops that left me looking for alternatives. I bought a Makita BO5000 in the mid-ninetys and never looked back, still using Makita sanders today. Even then, I found some sanding marks. Working in an auto parts store, I began investigating options. I found a 3M system of hand blocks and 2 3/4″ PSA abrasive rolls used primarily on pneumatic longboards. I bought three blocks, marked them as 100, 150 and 220 and bought three 40yd rolls of corresponding abrasive. This is, in my mind, the perfect solution for the very occasional hand sanding that I do. In fact, I still have the original roll of 220 from twenty-five years ago. In any power sanding I believe the key factor necessary to negate the pigtail problem is adequate dust extraction. Get some type of system dedicated to sanding. You don’t need the fancy stuff…even a small shop vacuum will work. But…buy a high quality hose and attachment system. I spent more for the hose than I did on the vacuum. Why? Because it is far more flexible and far less cumbersome you will be far more likely to use it! Most folk think sanding is a chore. I enjoy it. It is the last woodworking step to complete before you become a finisher. It is the step that can turn a pumpkin into a princess. Take your time… don’t rush… make something to be proud of.
I have a belt sander and a quarter sheet sander (I’ve always called it a “palm sander”) and the customization of grits by using regular sandpaper sheets is unmatched utility for me. I have all of my agressiveness/fineness bases covered between the belt and palm sanders. My 2 cents is that it’s better to dwell a bit longer in one spot with a finer grit as opposed to using a coarser grit for less time and trying to bail out of any deep scratches later on
I’ve been doing woodworking for over 45 years. In my opinion, the ultimate sander on at least flat plane surfaces is definitely a belt. Sander the biggest advantage to belt sanders is if you sand with the grain and continue to reduce your grit down to say a 220 or more, any lines completely disappear and you can take it one final step if you want to and that is to use steel wool and you can end up with an absolute mirror finish
Don’t forget to poke holes in the 1/4 after it is mounted to the sand pad. If you don’t the sander won’t be able to pull the dust into the collector. You can poke the holes by hand using a pencil or you can buy a template that will punch the holes all at one time for $13. Additionally, if you’re going to pain the wood instead of using a stain you needn’t worry too much about the swirls on the wood.
What’s a good beginner random orbital sander? My first project mostly involves sanding primer, no bare wood with the exception of 1/2 inch plywood for the drawers. The surfaces are relatively small, I’m painting before assembly and I would like to use those 3m cubitron or some other kind of mesh sandpaper
I generally use a finishing sander, and borrow a random orbital when possible 😀 As james said, I always finish with hand sanding at the end. Recently did the Dining table with the finishing Sander, and doubt you will find a single squiggle from the sander. But it takes a certain amount of diligence.
A TALE OF TWO SANDERS: At work we used quarter sheet De Walt sanders. They work great, but the large round top simply was not comfortable to use. They simply did NOT fit the hand! I bought a sander to use at home, and selected a Makita because the top was shape to provide a very comfortable hold. It was more comfortable right up until I turned it on. That thing vibrates so badly that after just a few minutes use my hand remains numb for about half an hour. It does a good enough job sanding, but if inverted that little devil could be used as a jackhammer.
I was wedded to my Ryobi 1/4-sheet sander for years, then it and the next two had mechanical problems, and I went 5″ ROS, which works fine (and coarse, and medium). Since then, with Cubitron disks, cost isn’t a factor: I’m still using the initial (sample pack) disks from two years ago (the backing wore to the point it wouldn’t stay on the hook/loop connection, but it still serves well on hand sanding blocks). I may never buy a piece of sandpaper again.
Contrary to convention, I use the RO sander for the more aggressive grits, and a belt sander for intermediate. The belt removes any cross grain scratches left by the RO, and makes the subsequent (and final) fine grit or two by hand pretty easy. Not mentioned in this article, but if I know Stumpy he has said it elsewhere, is to move through the grits in small jumps. Trying to erase scratches made by an 80 grit RO with a 150 grit belt or hand sander will take a LONG time.
As a small side note to the “all power sanders cut in all directions” part, I have ran across some old 1/2 sheet sanders that oscillate back and forth and not in the orbit style and they do only cut back and forth as they will walk themselves off the table which lead to the sander races with these (not the belt sanders) that bored wood workers would do. If you got the right sandpaper and figured out how it was made then the grains would have a bit more grip in one direction than the other so it could walk. They could only be used with the grain and you never wanted to use heavy grit sand paper with them, the roughest would be 100 grit maybe 80. You can get pretty smooth finishes with them and pretty consistently too. They were very prone to building up dust under them pretty quickly and would burn the wood so doing long sweeps with it helped stop that. That’s why they never really got anywhere commercially.
I would be interested in your thoughts on linear sanders, like the Festool Duplex linear sander. It has a back and forth motion only, so works best with the grain direction. It also allows excellent sanding of V grooves etc, which is what i bought it for, but it has become my go-to sander for most things now.
I have all three types of sanders and generally use them as I need them for a project. As you stated, the orbital sander is much better on rounded edges than the random orbit sander is because the base doesn’t spin. The other orbital sander has that tight point tip which is great for getting into corners such as the inside of a drawer. I had to learn a technique to keep those ugly pigtail swirls out of my projects and it does take longer due to having to move in just about every single direction on the project, but you can get great results if you are patient. Mind you, hand sanding is still generally required for even the “finish” sanders to get the project to the final finish you want. Overall, your shop isn’t complete, unless you own all three types of sanders and learn how to use them.
As you talked about sanding with the grain, I kept thinking of all the times Gibbs (NCIS) would tell people in his basement (and occasionally, elsewhere) to sand with the grain. With all the boats he made over 20 years, he probably went through quite a bit of sandpaper. And, as he noted in the first episode, the only power items in the basement were the single light bulb and the idiot box. I am gonna subscribe because while I am not a woodworker it doesn’t hurt to learn new stuff. Thanks.
I have used all types of mechanical sanders and all fail to leave a clear surface finish. Their only value is to remove varying depths of wood prior to the professional surface created by using scrapers correctly. The look they leave is breathtaking. A good series of tutorials is how to develop these skills and equipment could prove invaluable. This is how the wonderful finishes of antiques were consistency achieved. Have fun.
I use a lot of cheap menards tools (hobbyist woodworker) but upgrading my sanding tools and following your advice has helped me drastically. I’m spending more time enjoying the build of my projects instead of cursing at the finishing stage haha. I’ve always seen the 1/4 sheet sander as something painters use. Never thought about using it for weird spots or angles where I would need more control. Another helpful article!
Concise, excellent tutorial. Also, I just installed the BOW fence, feather boards and support blocks onto a DeWalt join site table saw, and another set of BOW feather boards to replace the manufacturer’s OEM version on the Bosch RA1181 router table. Haven’t used yet but it’s nice having the same anti-kickback safety system on both power tools.
Thanks for the tutorial and the article. I used to use orbital sanders, but found I didn’t have the patience to sand in my early years.. leaving many projects with the so-so finish you show. When I got my first random orbital sander, I never looked back. VERY efficient, compressed my sanding time by more than half, didn’t have to go through the aggravation of a fiddly sandpaper replacement that the sheet sanders tend to have (for me, anyway), and waayyyy better results. OMIGOSH, yes, the velcro backed disks are very expensive.. but I’ll gladly pay the price.. just to cut the shaping and finishing time down!
4 me personally, I like both. The round 1 has more chances of dipping and over removal. The palm not so much. But is slower. Regardless of grit. One does corners . 1 doesn’t. Both do SO much better w a vac 👍🏽😋. But b it belt, palm, orbital, reciprocal .. whatever…. It needs movement !!!! 😮 ALWAYS 😀
I always use a half-sheet sander so that I can create a flat surface instead of a hollowed out one. Using a quarter-sheet sander it’s far too easy to dig a hole, and ruin the surface. Sadly, in my home town, the only 1/2 sheet sanders available start as a positively insane $450. I think I paid $90 for my Ryobi. Thanks, hardware stores – you are really awesome.
Good comment about HAND-sanding the final stroke. I don’t have a random orb sander. Not sure I’ll ever buy one. I’ve used my Dewalt palm sander extensively and I love it. One problem tho… Sanding against raised edges will wear on the rubber pad, between the platen and paper. Eventually, 1/4-sheet paper becomes too long and the paper installs loose, so I end up cutting a small strip off, which results in a 24/100ths-sheet paper… then 23/100-sheet… 22/100 sheet and so on. Eventually, the pad gets worn down to the point where continued sanding will begin to wear out the platen. Granted, the platen is easy to replace, but try not to get that far.
retired furniture maker here. whilst i use a random for the coarser grits ie 80 and 120, i use the finish (1/3 sheet) sander for the final 180. maybe just habit but i find it easier to get a better final finish with this than a random. then followed by hand sanding with the grain. as i usually plane all finished pieces beforehand my sanding routine is pretty quick. with the two coarser grades. could just go to 180 to roughen up the surface for finish but prefer to go through the whole process. maybe the reason for the habit is we only had finish and belt sanders when i started and randoms came a long later.
Use to exclusively use the finish sander and hated it. Vibrated, swirl marks. Frustrating to use. I use exclusively a dewalt random orbit. No vibration whatsoever, incredible finish and frankly with a hepa vac – no dust so never go back to the finish sander (plus) changing sandpaper is so quick when switching between grits. Try that on the finish sander and enjoy the tedium of it all 🙂 Great article as always.
I have a little problem. Unfortunately in my (overzealous) sanding/removal of a horrible varnish that had little bubbles all over it, I sanded through the top veneer in these 43 year old cabinet doors I’m prepping for paint. I didn’t mess them all up, but enough. In several places I actually have dips. 😮 I’ve been filling them with wood fill. Since I’m using a grain filling, primer and sanding in between, shouldn’t that be OK? I’m glad I own this house but it’s been a challenge. It was vacant for several years, and they had kids living in here at one time, and I haven’t lived in it 16 years. (Sigh)
Regardless of the sander I use, that’s step #1. As James says, it’s his step #1 also (he cleans up with a finer grit moving with the grain). But I like the look of wood without the ‘muddiness’ that all sandpapers make with those tiny cuts that the grit creates. After using the sander, I clean up the scratch pattern with a card scraper. Why not use the card scraper alone? Because trying to do that (for me) always results in one or more straight gouges where I paused during a stroke. Using light card strokes (only as a way to clean up what the sander did) seems to be a good compromise (or teamwork, if you prefer).
I’ve got a high end and quality lower end random orbit. I had a third, but a buddy needed it. I’ve got my Fein MultiTool and I, always, have at least three quarter sheet sanders. Every one of my sanders are worth their weight. The ROS’s are king when it comes to being able to sand without too much concern for shop clean up, producing a good surface, and for LONG lasting sanding media. The quarter sheets ALWAYS get used inside my sanding station, which, though it has three sides, a back and a top, has flexible sides that allow me to do long pieces, but still force the air pulled in by the dust collector to be pulled from the front. The quarter sheet sanders trump the ROS for, for example, walking sticks that start out as five foot long 1-1/2″ square stock, which is, then, routered on all four sides using a 3/4″ roundover bit. Trying to do what the quarter sheet sanders can on, as mentioned in the article, radiused surfaces, is like trying to herd cats and deal with a wild mouse, in each others company. The ROS isn’t bad on radiused surfaces that run straight, but many of mine are curved, so the cat and mouse thing applies. Especially if I try to take advantage of what a vacuum does for the sanding processes. Sadly, there are many out there who would try to convince others of both their expertise and the worthlessness of the quarter sheet sanders. SIDE NOTE: If you can take advantage of a vacuum with your quarter sheet sander and it won’t interfere with your ability to manipulate it over curves surfaces, their efficiency (e.
Laser cut multi-layered art pieces, mostly out of birch plywood is my primary use of sanders. A 1/4 sheet sander has had the best results over the random orbital. With all of the random shaped holes in the material, using a round random orbital can have too much momentum and may break thin features between the holes and destroy a part in seconds. I recently got a cordless 1/4 sheet with adjustable speed and regret not getting it sooner. The fine control in delicate areas has been a game changer for removing the burn marks around features.
Early in my woodworking days, I bought a 1/4 sheet sander for the very reason you described – economy of using standard sheets of sandpaper. That little sander seemed to cause me more work than it saved, I am sure in part to my inexperienced hand, but boy am I familiar with that dreaded swirl pattern. Long ago I got a random orbit sander, and have loved using it! You may think with so much re-work that 1/4 sheet sander caused me, I quit using it years ago… not true!! Interestingly, a green scrubbing pad will JUST fit in the clamps! I also have the absolute worst condition any woodworker has, which is to say my table saw is outside!! Under the car port, but still subject to whims of humidity. You may be surprised to find I fight rust a lot less than you might think, however, I do have to deal with rust on the table saw top on occasion. The 1/4 sheet sander, with a green scrubbing pad, with a rust cleaner, works quite well!!
Pretty funny, was literally thinking about this yesterday. I have been only been using 1/4 sander my whole life but have been seeing everyone using the rando sander. I get the pigtails, but have learned over the years to get far fewer and high-grit rub ’em out. I will always hand-sand, no matter what, at the end. Funny, I’ve been calling my sander an “oscillating sander” and thought the rando was the “true” ‘orbital’ sander. Great vid!
It’s pretty easy to make your own sanding blocks. I have four 5″ orbital sanders. I don’t like to change papers. So I change sanders. But when I wear out the paper disc of what ever grit. It goes into a box. Each box is labeled for each grit and the blocks that I make sit right on top. So when you blow out the shop the paper stays put.The blocks I make are 5″ long usually 2″ tall and have cork board on the bottom. A nice piece of oak works well. Just use contact cement for the cork board. Have a good one 😊
I only use the orbital sanders. The only thing I’ve found that takes care, is to pay attention to your grits and don’t skip grits now than one coarseness at a time. And just make sure to check your paper each time you stop. Those pig tails are mainly caused when your paper gets gummed up with wood, and possibly too much pressure causing heat and not allowing the dust to escape. I mainly use them as actual finishing sanding though, from 120 or 150, 220 and 320. Just watch your later and they’re fine.
I was given an old Milwaukee 1/4 sheet sander, and it’s a monster. With 60 gtit, it grinds material off faster than a belt sander. Doesn’t seem to be a way to turn it down. and it shales the table. My random orbital is used to fix the ‘damage’ the first one does. Since almost all my work is very rough=sawn live edge spruce (Alaska) it’s very useful.
I’ve got a random orbit sander (Erbauer – cheap but great value – not an ad) and a 1/3 sheet sander (no brand, from a very cheap shop in the UK) – where do these fit in? I’m using the 1/3 sheet one with v.rough grit to get rid of the router lines from flattening slabs; I think it helps keep the piece flatter than using the orbital. Am I getting it the wrong way round?
40 years painting professionally and 8ish doing finish carpentry work and not super complex woodworking projects at home chiming in. Quarter sheet sanders aka jitterbugs that you get in box stores are, loud, most have clips that fail to hold the paper after a while, the dust collection sucks (well actually doesn’t) and vibrate your hands until they are irritated/itchy and or fatigued if doing any time on one. I recommend a trip to the trash can with those garbage heaps and spending money on a higher quality brand and dust collection that works with it even if it means swiping a card. I’m not gonna mention the brand I use because of the haters out there that have never used one tool from this company for any length of time always have something stupid to say like “they’re made of plastic” when every sander you buy is.. Do your own research, really study the features and watch the head to head articles all over YouTube. Quality low volume, adjustable suction dust collection is also a must if you are sanding for the long haul.
Novice woodworker here. I have had great success with a finish sander for most of my work. Right up until I was working with Acacia. I simply could not remove the pig tails with it. Acacia hates it so much I had to go all the way back to 80 grit and start again hand sanding my way with single direction strokes through 120 and 180 grit. Doesn’t sound to bad til I say the project was a massive desktop. My shoulder still isn’t happy every time I think about that.
At a slight tangent, I have an issue with some of the switches used on many of these machines. The rocker type, with a flexible plastic cover. It’s easy to not quite switch them all the way off. The motor stops but the switch is “on the rock” and can tip back to on, after you’re done with it. I felt lucky when at lunch one day, my wife told me “something’s buzzing around on the floor of the workshop”. The potential for the thing to overheat, or reek some other damage is obvious…..Maybe it’s just me.
James, this is just another of many great articles that you have produced on sanding. You are preaching to the choir here regarding hand sanding with the grain on the last grit. I believe I have commented on doing so in some of your other articles. I was recently looking into a linear sander to help reduce my hand sanding where I can, I’m getting old and any help I can get I’ll take. Any input on this would be appreciated. All the Best, Chuck
I don’t consider either of those orbital sanders to be a true finish sander. Although if you use a series of finer and finer grit papers you can eventually get an acceptably fine finish. I tend to use a random orbital sander only for rough sanding to flatten a surface or remove imperfections and glue. But to quickly get a very fine finish without leaving a lot of grain fibers standing up, I use an air powered straight-line sander and am careful to sand with the grain. For me this gets me to a very fine finish more quickly. My sander is a Hutchins model 2023. It uses 2 7/8″ wide self-adhesive paper that comes in rolls of various grit size. I believe straight-line sanders are also available in corded and battery electric models as well. Do an internet search if you are interested.
I always finish with a finishing sander. Period. Orbital sander? Sure you have to hand sand when done. Finishing sander? Pretty much never. Of course, after more than 50 years of using them, maybe you need to get the hang of it. But wouldn’t be without one. The only thing I hate is changing the paper. LOL
How do ‘Multi Tool’ triangular sanding heads compare? I’ve used them for sanding into corners on fake panelling on chests and doors, because nothing else would fit once its together. I found the sanding was like using 1-2 grits finer than the nominal grit of the sanding sheet. Should be good for sanding right up to recessed edges too, but no effective dust collection at the source (work outside in a breeze).
Here’s a painful lesson that you want to avoid with a hook and loop orbital sander. Do NOT wait to long to change out your sandpaper because it will trash the hook and loop on your sander and you’ll have to buy a new one. You won’t even see it happening so stop and inspect it periodically. They are fairly easy to replace once you buy a new one though. Also if your new sanding sheet is just a little too aggressive you can run your sander over a scrap piece of wood for about 30 to 60 seconds before hitting your good wood with it. It just helps to tame it just a bit.
Also you are more likely to get circular scratches if the paper starts to get clogged with something. You may notice it when you try to remove some finishes and they are really difficult to sand off. It will not only seem to take forever but it will leave those circle and pigtail swirls and be ugly. That just ads insult to injury after you spent hours on the F-ing thing!!
The random orbit sanders I have come across do tend to produce a superior finish than the straight orbital sanders and seem to cut faster. But there are a couple of downsides to the ROs. The grippiness of the pad is sometimes a bit inadequate and a few seconds of use with a slipping disc can flatten the hooks and make it useless. This tends to be more of a problem when sanding over an edge or a curved surface, when the isn’t even pressure across the pad. Also beware of non proprietary discs that may not have sufficient stickability. And there’s the cost of course…
i’ve always used a finishing palm sander or block, especially since the palm cost twenty bucks, they last for decades, and sheets of sandpaper are always cheaper than precut stuff. lastly, if a really smooth, scratch free surface is wanted i always follow up with a sanding block and real fine sandpaper and i always get very nice results.
I inherited my Dad’s wood working tools and one of the odd tools was what he called a finishing sander. Half sheet Craftsman that has a selector switch for orbital or straight line. Not sure if this of Craftsman even offers a similar sander anymore. I use it for all my finishing to eliminate the pig tails.
I just found your site and I like it. That being said as a retired woodworker I suggest you stop using power sanders. Decades ago I started using a card scraper. I found it faster cleaner and quieter and fairly easy to learn. I don’t think I have used a power sander in over 40 years. Give it a try. I think you will be surprised how easy it is.
I have not used a quarter sheet type sander in years. Random orbit works better for flat surfaces, followed as noted by hand sanding with final grit. I hand sand rounded edges and the like. If I really need aggressive sanding I use a belt sander. With the proper touch the random orbit sander is very safe. Having variable speed is nice. The challenge is interior corners, but pre-sanding is the way to go. I’m sure there is a place where the quarter sheet sander are just the ticket, but I have not had a need in years.
I have numerous sanders. I use blue tape and write the grit on top of each sander so I can go from coarse to fine on a project. But on flat horizontal surfaces I really like a long board hand sander to get it flat with no grit circles, and if you have bungs offer screw heads very important see so they don’t stand proud after you finish.
I say this with nothing but the kind of I-don’t-know-you-but-you-have-been-the-single-most-influential-to-my-personal-work instructor affection due here….but bro, I am laughing so hard right now; did you just invite woodworkers to express opinions about sanding in the youtube comments? Were you worried that the woodworkers who watch youtube would NOT offer opinions about sanding unless invited to? Now I’m thinking about putting forty woodworkers in a room with a sanding article, and warning them “Do not offer any opinions. If you offer an opinion about this, the room will fill up with water and you will all drown” and seeing if you could even get OUT of the room before the water came pouring in.
I took a furniture refinishing class at an adult night school many years ago. We all had to bring a piece of furniture to strip and refinish. I remember we were told to hand sand our piece the second or third class, and one student finally asked, “When do we get to use our sander?” The teacher said, “You will not be using those in my class.”
I purchased a used one as the piece is a bit pricey, but the machine youtube.com/post/UgkxG6fbm3cHBd7CNTjk5D-dwYe9c9tCB9ZN has surpassed my expectations. We sand small parts by hand often, sized around 1″x1/2,” and specifically look for a piece that’s designed to be vertical. The motor has plenty of torque and great speed settings. The only inconvenience I had is that the disk measures 5″ where we trim 6″ stick-and-sand disks down easily by mounting it then cutting with a box cutter.
This article was very helpful for me. I led a group of 10 high school students on a mission trip and we refinished a 50 year old gym floor. Here are a few more tips I would add for drum sander users: 1) When using the drum sander and lowering the drum as you are moving to start a pass, be sure to think of lowering in a controlled smooth motion rather than dropping or releasing the drum down. If the drum plops down, it will leave the same marks as if you started from a still position. 2) Try to rent the EZ-8 style drum sander with the round sleeves instead of the clamping style drum sander with flat sheets. We had one of each initially, but quickly returned the clamping one and went out to find another EZ-8 type. The style with the screw down clamp and flat sheets is much more difficult to set up correctly. One of the students didn’t properly tighten one of the screws and it came loose and put a huge gouge in the floor. The EZ-8 sleeves are much more error-proof in terms of setting them up.
Love the presentation – very professional, to the point, easy to listen to. Would have loved to see some of the equipment in action a bit longer, e.g. the rotary sander with its high torque. The presenter does a great job at explaining the differences and cautionary measures – more visuals of that in action is also greatly helpful.
You always start with the sander on the right hand side working your way to the left. The drum is slightly calibrated to sand more on the right side than the left. It’s subtle but you will notice it in the finished product wondering why is there lines in the floor. Also these rental 110 machines are very light. If the floor is badly cupped or needs lots of sanding. Start by sanding 45° to all of the board lines. It’ll take the material down faster. Then begin with the straight sanding. It’ll save you hours of walking back and forth to get to the same point. He demonstrated this when he was taking out the drum stop mark. Do the whole room like that for heavy sanding. Don’t rent a machine that requires screwing the papers into place. You definitely want the belt machine. Putting those papers on takes a lot of time, they have to be put on tightly. And they end up popping off or flapping. Add lots of annoying frustrating time to the job. Avoid the drum machine requiring sheet papers. You definitely want the machine with belts! Anyhow. After renting all of this equipment and hating the job and probably creating a job that your wife or the customer will not be satisfied with You would have already paid half of what a floor man would have charged. just saying if you want to save 50% of the money do it yourself. If you want a good job, don’t want to break your back, and can afford it. Don’t get involved. Take it from a floor man for 30 years. And no I’m not just trying to boost work. Do it yourself if you like
Engineered flooring has advanced in recent years they are no longer a rotary peeled. They are dry dawn typically good engineered flooring has a 4mm wear. You can this as the same amount as a solid wood floor, solid wood is a 5mm surface from the t&g and where nails are. Prefinished floors 95% have a microbevel this is due to subfloor conditions and this bevel is to reduce the amount of over wood that could potentially occur due to subfloor heights.
I am having my hardwood refinished tomorrow, they are using waterborne finish. Since I purchased my home 20 years ago, this is the first time I am doing this, I have been delaying it because emptying the home is a total pain in the arse, specially having to move everything by myself without any help. I have been told lately that waterborne finish is not near as durable as “old school” solvent based stuff, so I am a bit concerned… the contractor said he is aplying three coats. I live alone, no kids and no pets, so the floors are not going to suffer a harsh life. What do you guys think? Thanks.
I tore up old carpet in my house about 15 years go, that had covered the original oak plank flooring, which had reverse cupped due to the carpet not allowing the oak to breathe for many years. The easiest access to a machine was Home Depot rentals (I didn’t feel like running all over town to rental stores, only to find something held together with duct tape), and at first, I rented the rectangular orbital sander. But due to the cupping, it would have taken a year of sanding to get the planks flat, so I rented the drum sander. It is a nightmare to operate if you are inexperienced (which I was), but eventually I managed to do the job. This article (which is great) makes it look simple…IT AIN’T! It requires a substantial learning curve to operate the machines properly. On top of it all, I used a roller for the finish, and messed it all up, leaving a terrible finish. I got down on my hands and knees, using my own handheld belt sander and removed the polyurethane, then painted on the new finish with a foam brush, which was controllable and went well. In the end, it all looks good…but refinishing a wood floor is far from simple.
Hi. thanks for the article. So if i want the natural color of whatever wood floor i have, i don’t stain the floor just like you didn’t stain the floor in this article. I should only stain it if i want different color rather than the natural wood color of the wood i have? Thank you in advance for answering my question.
Hello sir I like your articles I just subscribed I have a question I was told to use the square sander floor sander instead of the rotary one like turns tumbler one sorry it is different words I’m in the Philippines language barrier but on pine floors what kind of sander should we use I am told that if I use the drum set it will tear up because pine is very soft and I should use the one that goes back and forth the square one what do you think what are your thoughts thank you for all your articles