A combination of methods, such as using a chemical stripper followed by scraping or sanding, is often the best way to remove exterior paint. The blowtorch is a popular choice for homeowners due to its affordability and speed. High heat causes acrylic-latex paint to soften, making it easy to peel away with a putty knife. Angle grinders fitted with sandblaster pads or grinding discs can be used for paint removal, but they are aggressive tools that can quickly strip paint but require removal of all hardware.
For lead-free paint in reasonable or good condition, start with a paint scraper to remove any loose or flaking paint. Strip back so there are no loose edges. Paint strippers can help you start with a clean slate and make your next paint job easier. Heat or chemicals are two common options for paint removal. Each paint-stripper manufacturer recommends a specific neutralizer, which could range from a mild acidic solution to a quick wipe with a clean cloth moistened with paint thinner.
Scraping with a sharp, rigid putty knife or a blade designed for paint scraping is sometimes the best way to remove paint. Dust is still present, but it is minimized and better controlled than using a sander. The powerful Paint Shaver makes quick work of wide, flat surfaces, while the Metabo Paint Remover is capable of removing a lot of wood if the depth is set incorrectly.
Heat-based removal techniques, such as chemical strippers, peel-away options, and abrasive blasting, can be used to remove paint easily. Sandblasting is a quick and effective way to remove exterior paint, while chemical stripping is another viable method for removing paint.
📹 Removing Paint From Cedar Siding | Diamabrush vs Paint Eater vs Sander vs Pressure Washer vs Scraper
In the end, the Diamabrush was the fastest tool for the job – I go over how to use the Diamabrush in the video. I also used the paint …
Can you use WD-40 to strip paint?
In the event of a car wash failing to remove paint, it is recommended that the vehicle be allowed to dry, that the residue be sprayed with WD-40, and that it be left to sit for a period of between one and two hours. The vehicle should then be rewashed. This process will soften the paint from traffic without causing damage to the vehicle’s finish.
Is it better to sand or strip paint off wood?
Paint stripper, available in liquid, gel, or paste form, is a versatile tool for the effective removal of paint from wood. It is particularly efficacious for use on large projects, curved shapes, and fine details, often outperforming sanding on rounded surfaces and tight areas.
What can I use at home to strip paint?
In order to remove paint from windows, it is recommended that a small quantity of hot vinegar be applied as a solution to facilitate the removal of the paint.
What is the best cleaner to remove paint?
Acetone, a common ingredient in nail polish removers, has a variety of applications in the field of painting and coating. It can be used to thin paint, lacquer, remove adhesives, epoxy, and ink, as a paint stripper, and for post-project cleanup.
Can you pressure wash exterior paint?
Pressure washing is a method to clean your home’s exterior without putting hours of effort into it. It uses highly pressurized water to remove dirt, salt, grime, and other buildup. This process not only prevents long-term damage like mold build-up but also makes it easier to see any damage on the exterior. If your home’s paint is in good condition and you prefer the color, pressure washing may be a better option. Other factors that may increase the need for pressure washing include proximity to traffic, construction, or direct sunlight.
Power washing can be done on your own or by hiring professionals, but improperly done can cause damage. It is recommended to work with professionals, as they have years of experience and their own equipment, making it a cost-effective solution.
What is the best thing to clean exterior paint with?
House washing can be done using a sponge or soft scrub brush, with a mild solution of soapy water and a gentle scrub. A light rinse with a garden hose can help keep your home looking great. If mildew issues arise, add bleach to the mixture. Pressure washing is another option, but it’s better to hire a professional as it can be hazardous if not handled correctly. Achieving the right balance of pressure and distance can also be challenging. When performed by a professional, pressure washing can yield great results and maintain your home’s appearance.
Can you use WD 40 to strip paint?
In the event of a car wash failing to remove paint, it is recommended that the vehicle be allowed to dry, that the residue be sprayed with WD-40, and that it be left to sit for a period of between one and two hours. The vehicle should then be rewashed. This process will soften the paint from traffic without causing damage to the vehicle’s finish.
What is an alternative to a paint striper?
Baking soda and boiling water are two effective methods for stripping paint off steel surfaces. Baking soda can be purchased in Sainsburys and can be heated for 20 minutes to remove the paint. Soy gel is a non-toxic alternative, suitable for furniture and doors, and is used by the London Underground for lead paint removal. It is non-drip and is suitable for furniture and doors. Tensid UK’s TAVEC 210 is an example of a non-toxic paint stripper. It is important to leave your workspace well ventilated and wear personal protective equipment. Both methods can be used effectively for paint stripping.
What is the quickest way to strip paint?
The article provides a list of five proven methods for removing old paint from surfaces. These methods include hand sanding and scraping, pressure washing, heat tools, and chemical strippers. Hand sanding and scraping are low-tech methods that can be made easier by using a power sander, but it’s important to avoid removing too much substrate. Sandpaper is better for flat surfaces and can be used with water or solvent to keep dust down.
Pressure washing is another method that can be used to remove paint from exterior wood surfaces without creating dust. Pressurized water physically disrupts the paint’s adhesion and can help re-dissolve water-based paint components, reducing the pressure needed to remove the paint. However, it’s crucial to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for pressure and nozzle profile, as too much pressure can damage the wood. Additionally, it’s essential to prepare for substantial runoff to avoid flooding the surface.
In summary, these methods are all effective but require some elbow grease.
How to strip exterior paint?
Heat can be used to remove exterior house paint, allowing it to peel away easily from the wood without sanding or using chemicals. However, caution should be taken when using a heat gun, as it can release old lead paint into the air and form embers under the surface, which can ignite later. Power washing is another method to prepare the siding, but it may also marr the wood. Use a pressure washer before scraping to remove loose chips and flakes, resisting the temptation to push the nozzle closer to the wood.
Power washing is best saved for last to wash away dust and debris left from scraping. The technique used depends on your budget, the amount of paint needed, and the time you want to spend. Five Star Painting offers the best wallpaper removal technique.
What do professionals strip paint with?
The article discusses various methods for stripping paint, including chemical strippers, solvents, green strippers, steam, power washing, hand or electric sanders, wood-shaving equipment, traditional heat guns and open torches, and traditional heat guns and open torches. Chemical strippers work best on carved and detailed surfaces but are drippy and suitable only for horizontal surfaces. They require proper ventilation, fumes can be fatal and carcinogenic, and set up, waste containment, clean up, and drying are time-consuming.
Green strippers are becoming more popular due to their environmental focus and user-friendliness. However, they require several applications to thoroughly remove all layers of paint. Steam is a relatively new method for paint removal, but it is slow and can raise the grain on the wood, leading to “dead, gray wood” feathering. Power washing is one of the fastest paint removal methods but can cause incomplete drying and lead poisoning. Hand or electric sanders and wood-shaving equipment are faster and more time-efficient but require experienced operators and can result in uneven stripping and irreparable damage.
Traditional heat guns and open torches operate at 1000°C, which can cause wood to be scorched and even burned. Workers must wear expensive organic vapor masks and are at high risk of fire. Blowing hot air or torches can ignite dust, spider webs, bird nests, and other small, dry particles, and materials behind the wood can catch fire many hours after stripping.
The Speedheater™ Infrared (IR) Paint Remover is the recommended method for stripping paint, as it contains none of the risks associated with these methods. The mid-length infrared rays safely and quickly heat paint to 300°F-600°F in 20-60 seconds, preventing lead fumes from being released. Soft paint scrapings generate minimal dust and are easily contained. The resulting wood surface is smooth, requires no sanding, washing, or drying time, and is immediately ready for priming and painting.
📹 The BEST Paint Stripper!
Stripping paint from historic woodwork and walls is a painfully slow and potentially dangerous activity. Using a method gleaned …
I’m refurbishing an old stone farmers cottage here in the west of Ireland and my problem was multi-layer paint peeling & flaking off the lime render on the external walls… I tried pressure washing but it gouged holes in the soft render so my plan B was to use a 115mm angle grinder with a diamond face-cutting wheel…. 😧 It took me WEEKS to do the whole exterior… but when I was finished people thought I had re-rendered it… it looked so good. 🤗 I also re-plumbed, re-wired & installed a LOT of i sulation… I lowered all the ceilings by 10″ to 8′ height (std. Sheet size) and built studded walls over all internal walls, again insulating as I went… 6″ rigid foil-backed sheets in the external walls & 2 layers of 4″ rigid in the ceilings…. presently, I’m building my kitchen cabinets from scratch, shaker doors and all…😈 (At 64y.o. …. I’m gittin too old for this kinda thing ! 🙄😂) From the Emerald Isle 😎👍☘️🍺
I’m stripping many layers of lead paint from my 1910 house. For large areas, the best method I’ve found is a “Paintshaver”. This is an angle grinder with a rotating planer attached. It will strip off a hundred years of paint in one or two passes. I’m doing about 50 sq ft (5’ x 10’) in about half an hour. Needs practice (I learned on my garage) and two hands (scaffolding much better than ladder, if working high). Set nails when possible, or the cutters will cut off the nail heads; no evident damage to the cutters, may dull them but each cutter has six available edges. Good dust collection with an attached vacuum, but wear goggles and mask/respirator as some debris gets kicked upwards. Leaves the siding bare and a little rough, so you need to do a quick sanding after. Expensive ($1000-1300) but I found mine used for $227 🙂 For the corners and little places the Paintshaver can’t reach, I am using a heat gun with a sharp scraper. It’s the gentlest method, but too slow for large areas. Takes me about an hour for just 5 sq ft. Pretty clean, as the softened paint comes off in strips. Lead paint precautions: don’t work on a windy day, plastic sheet the area, wear respirator and disposable painter’s overalls, use a HEPA vacuum with Paintshaver and sander, if hand sanding do it wet, when done dispose of the plastic sheet and debris (household trash ok) and vacuum the area including the stripped surface, take a shower.
Nice article. I went through something similar to this about 13 years ago. The best tool for the bulk of the work is called “the paint shaver pro” (I’m not affiliated with the company). For corners and crevices use a heat gun and various scrapers. Be sure to set your nails with a punch to get the nail heads below the surface of the wood before stripping the paint. Also, please wear a respirator when sanding or grinding. It’s a big job, have fun 😁
For starters, don’t use paint on rough sawn cedar. The proper product is a modern acrylic stain which won’t give you the multitude of issues paint creates on cedar. I’ve been using an angle grinder to remove paint from cedar and pine for years. It requites a learning curve and careful touch and it’s dangerous, but it really works. I also don’t bother with the brush and just use 36 grip and 2 grit sanding discs
What about using a heat gun? Get one with a wide nozzle, keep it 1 inch off the wood and one inch in front of your flexible scraper and even adhered spots will come clean off without chipping. It’s a fairly slow process though, but combined with just peeling/scraping off what is already loose could actually be a good solution. Leaves no trace and you get thoroughly clean wood without chemicals.
I recently helped my daughter strip multi-layers of old paint from a 70 year old weatherboard (clapboard) house in Auckland, New Zealand. After trying most of the things you worked with, we found the most effective was a heat gun (adjust. temp.) with changeable ends for directing the heat where you want it. A broad, flexible blade (about 2-3 inches) will easily lift the softened paint in long strips which fall away from the boards. These are relatively easy to clean up. A long handled paint scraper with a tungsten carbide blade was used for the tougher bits. Followed up with orbital sanding with 80-100 grit paper. First coat was Zinsser Cover Stain Primer Sealer Stain Blocker (oil based), followed by a water based undercoat and two top coats (water based). Looks terrific and we hope for many years before re-coating. Am enjoying your articles, Melissa.
I had the same type problem on my walls. Finally settled on a 4″ grinder and cheap Harbor Freight abrasive pads. It worked pretty well and the pads were so cheap it didnt bother me. Thst was split log siding. The other which I removed was a deck surface that had Rustoleum Restore flaking off it. For that i softened the stuff in full sun and with a heat gun and 4″ putty knife to get long strips off quite easily.
As a Painting Contractor forever I probably would have tried wider scrapers,4-6″ because it seemed like you were getting under the paint film pretty easy and was scrapable. Then Grinded the rest off with a 16 grit disc and wearing a full face respirator . That’s if I had to, I probably would have passed on the job if that’s what the customer wanted. Too labor intensive and difficult to charge enough in most cases. More power to you though for going for it but protect your lungs and hands and face. I would caution anybody with a heat gun. You can set the house on fire inside the wall through siding cracks or gaps in the siding or trim.
Had the same type of peeling 2-3 years after painstakingly scrapping, prepping and painting my house. Only took a few years and the carefully prepped siding was peeling off in sheets. All I anticipate, was a response to moisture in the wood. The next time I corrected the things I did wrong the first time, and to this day the house and paint still look nearly perfect. Steel siding works great.
That is a tough project. I think you did a good job trying the different methods and explaining the pros – cons. Ultimately it is just a labor job. But I’m sure your finish result will be super because you will make it happen. My one thought is that I would use a tarp to make clean up easy and neat. Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing. It helps to encourage those of us that aren’t as motivated.
Very helpful article. Thanks for showing the effectiveness of a variety of tools. It’s great to see a woman doing her own house repair work. I am a single mother and home owner and I do as much of my own repair work as possible. Very empowering. My home has cedar shake siding, so I don’t know what the best tool is yet, but your article has got me thinking.
Use a nail set to sink the nails a little deeper in the siding. You can also buy an inexpensive moisture meter to test the moisture in your siding to determine if it is dry enough for good adhesion. Next, use a good primer on the bare wood so the paint has the best chance of adhering and lasting for a long time so you don’t have to go through this process again.
For having anger management issues, you took on a project that most professional painters would run from. What you are doing is labor intense to say the least and not easy. Step back for a moment and have an old painter look paint history of the house. I am guessing from experience that the cedar was initially stained. Someone later decided to paint the house one day. Prior to latex paint, people used oil paint which is most likely what the first coat of paint is. If the initial stain was a solid body stain either oil based or water based, it explains why why your house is peeling down to bare wood and taking all layers of paint with it. You may want to consider trying infra red heat and or paint stripper to see if it will save time in labor. Time is money so consider any tool you buy as an investment to save you time. Another option would be to buy a festool 125 palm sander and a Vac. The sand paper you want to use is called GARNET. This sand paper does not gum up like other sand paper. I use 60,80 and 120 depending on what Iam up against. This method will not gouge the siding. The best way to eat an elephant is one bite at a time. Don’t look at the size of your house. Look at one side at a time and attack the problem. In the end, you can be proud of yourself as it is a labor intense project and takes a lot of “patience.” This is a great article as many homeowners have the same problem. I like to keep things simple. Women put on foundation before they put on make up for a reason.
Old homes with rabbited shiplap siding such as yours were designed to breathe through the walls. Things like refrigeration systems to cool the inside of the home didn’t exist and so there were no concepts like ‘building envelope’ to seal gaps to create a closed space for efficient cooling. Your home was probably built with a whole house fan in the attic (somewhere in the center of the house) and double hung windows. To cool the interior space, you would open the windows (low sash on one side of the house and high sash on the other) and turn on the whole house fan to create a draft of air flow from one side of the home to the other. Warm air would be expelled through the attic out through a gable soffit. This brought cooler air into the home and pushed the hot air in the attic outside the home. With the advent of modern HVAC systems, walls that ‘breathe’ were no longer desirable. It was a common practice to install new siding over the old siding to improve the building envelope or, in some cases, a painter would caulk the overlapping shiplap seams and paint to seal them. These approaches help create a more efficient space for HVAC cooling but, in the latter approach, sealing the seams means that moisture and humidity build up in the walls resulting is the peeling paint you are now seeing. Therefore, it is likely that the wet spots you see on your shiplap siding are the direct result of moisture attempting to escape from the inside of the home. If you want to permanently resolve this problem; the best prep solution is to remove each piece of shiplap, chemically (or mechanically – I prefer a heat gun and scraper) strip the paint from the face of each board, lightly sand, and finally (this is the important part) prime ALL sides (front, back, and edges) before applying the finish paint coat.
Melissa, it is always enjoyable to watch your home improvement articles. May I suggest wearing a mask whenever you sand or spray new paint? Viewers need to be reminded that safety goes along with techniques. The cedar siding may have had a stain or oil in the past that prevented better adhesion of the previous pain. Taking off old paint takes a lot of work and time, but again wear a protective mask & goggles when you try this. P.S. You are delightful and lovely.
Try dumond smart strip. I used to remove layered paint from my living room plaster ceiling. It is thick, little odor and I troweled it on the ceiling in small sections of 5′ X 5′ and walked away. Kraft paper covering floor as drop cloth. Within 8 hours the paint starts to fall off ceiling, then I came in with blade tool and cleaned off the rest of the paint – all loose and down to original plaster finish. Worked effortless. A little messy cause I was doing a ceiling. I have vertical tongue and groove cedar siding outside on house that needs this same removal, I am going to use smart strip. You should at least try it out.
Looks good, that was a lot of work. Paint strippers have come along way, the citrus one I like a lot and for that much space I would’ve considered it it’s a little sticky and like a gel that you can paint on. Some of them are pretty toxic so you wanna be careful but with that and pressure washer it might’ve been a lot faster, I’ve never used it to do some thing as big as a house but on furniture and even metal it works really well for me
What is that sound next to you starting @3:12 when you are doing the sponsor message? I could not identify it 🙂 It produced a lot of vibration so must be some kind of a power tool 🙂 Both me and my caregiver tried to use Better Help. I was turned away and told that my case is too severe for them and my caregiver could not find a specialist who knew about his condition. I am glad to hear that they worked for you ♥
The tool you need is a Paintshaver Pro. It is similar to the Diamabrush, but has carbide inserts that shave the paint and last nearly indefinitely. The tradeoffs are, you have to set the depth carefully, set all the nails below the surface, and it does leave a slightly rough surface that requires sanding. And they’re expensive, mine cost about $600 ten years ago. Worth Every. Single. Penny!
Regarding the blue stripping wheel, it was being held at the wrong angle, don’t hold flat with the surface, also go for the lower grit version ( purple)…. Stripping wheel works great for stripping paint off siding and decks, you’d be surprised how fast they work, unfortunately they don’t last that long.
That is a pretty big job. A couple of suggestions: Lay down some plastic to capture the paint chips, tape to bottom and go out 4-6 feet. Wear a particle mask. Compressed air also works but you need a big compressor and it will used up a lot of energy and it still won’t get everything. There is a balance too of getting the job good enough without going into perfection mode that will add a lot of time and cost, lastly consider employing a small army of workers to get that knocked out pronto so you will be perusal and inspecting more than actually doing. 🙂
Girl. I need to give you some money. lol. My house is EXACTLY like yours down to the moisture in the wood and layers of paint. I was googling and researching the best way and came across you and you helped me out. I’m literally sanding it by hand and my right arm is like the family guy quagmire episode. Bottom line: you helped me out so much and it’s really awesome to see another woman taking on the tasks I am taking on. I just wanted to say ty you so very much. I’m realizing just now I came across you before and you helped me out when I took my paneling down and redid the carpeted steps. I hope you read this, I really do. And I just want to say keep it up. I’m subscribing now. ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Wow it’s funny to see other people that had my same issues with paint! I have a house with cedar shake siding with extremely thick paint. I tried a grinder with sandpaper, which would clog the paper, then I had the confidence to use the diamabrush! It was able to blast through the thickest paint on my house. It was bubbly, cracked and chunky. The diamabrush really works well at taking the thickest paint off of any wood surface.
I can’t help but wonder if rolling a paint stripper on, and THEN using a pressure washer (similar to how a deck would be done) would be effective. You’d likely want to lay landscaping clothe around the grass of the area you’re working, but I’d love to see if this would be effective. These other methods looked SO labour intensive.
Did exactly the same job of removing multi-layers of paint and mildew off cedar lap siding. There is no simple or easy way. I used heavy duty 60 grit 6″ sanding discs on an old circular sander. (Similar to an angle grinder.) Primed the new wood surface with alkyd primer, topcoat with acrylic latex paint. We sold the house, which was painted in appropriate decade color, but the current owner is now repainting to a trendy charcoal color! It looks terrible. This is so sad after spending two months of hard labour to ‘restore’ the 1970’s split level home.
I prefer the paint strippers, you can buy it in large buckets and just slather it on the wall and put some plastic over it for it to work a while and not dry out. It just bubbles up and let’s go from the surface and you can scrape it all off in one swoop. Work in sections and you can have it really fast! Just make sure you choose some environmentally friendly as the gunk is gonna go everywhere, but I have used some that were safe to even flush down the drain.
What you need to try is a real scraper with a replaceable carbide blade. The trick with scrapers is to mess around with the angle that the blade meets the surface, until it’s just right to scrape the loose paint without gouging the wood. Also good advice in other comments to use a bonding primer before the new paint goes on. Also, PLEASE wear a good N95 dust mask or respirator while you’re doing anything that creates dust, even if it’s not lead paint.
While moisture on or in wood will affect how paint bonds, it’s the molecular bond that makes the biggest difference. Wood has oils in it that do not bond well to foreign molecules at the molecular level. Even if the wood siding was dry, it’s more likely the new coating would fail sooner than later because of poor bonding of the paint and natural oil molecules. There are products that take this reality into account so adhesion is much better (waterborne, solvent based or possibly some water based). Unfortunately, it’s not perfect and other factors (like moisture and temperature) will take any opportunity to get involved in the chemical/molecular bond. (It’s the same reason unsaturated cooking oils are bad to eat: double carbon molecular bonds to Hydrogen that when heated, break and allow oxygen to join the party (oxidizing and spoiling the oil). Rancidity in oils happens very quickly (a few days). To increase the chances of long term success, the wood must be low in natural oil content. Many coating manufactures recommend letting new wood weather prior to application. Problem with that is oxidation of the surface layer (greying wood) which must be removed for sound adhesion. In the old days, Sikkens exterior products told the user all the steps necessary for success. Few ever followed the guidelines because it was more work and more cost. That’s one reason stains peel off within a few years. They never had a chance. I’d use a very strong exterior bonding primer on a very clean surface (cleaned with TSP, rinsed extremely well, allowed to dry thoroughly and primed before oxidation).
nice article. I like pressure washing for this type of situation, but it takes a very long time to dry out, its for lazyish people like me. its time to do my garage again so I think ill try the wheel cutter you used. also you are drop dead gorgeous and make it so easy to watch a article like this. thanks.
Thanks, this was very useful to see. I would not want to tackle a job like this but I am sure it will come my way someday. When I was a kid I have vivid memories of seeing people using a propane torch to hit the paint until it bubbled/curled and then scrape with a putty knife. Seemed to work well but obviously it takes control and extra care to prevent scorching the wood.
Get yourself a Metabo paint srtiper and A carbide hand scraper. Leave paint that is still secured to the siding, feather edges with palm sander. Apply 2 thick coats or Sherman Williams Primer RX sure bond. That stuff will secure any remaining paint and prevent future cracking. Make sure to have the primer tinted white, comes clear and you can’t tell what was painted if it’s not tinted. Metabo is the only hand tool worth it for scraping. Good luck!
Be sure to use a good primer meant for your particular application the next time you paint. Your paint prep is a-peeling, though not real appealing….at all, when there is so much area you need to do!! Truly. Speaking of your sponsor: I grew up in a very remote location in the Highlands of Chiapas, and so, I was initially confused by this sponsor messaging, because in the small town I grew up in, 7500 feet in the mountains, there were 2 “out of the way” streets for use as “public restrooms”, and as a child it was explained to me this way, when a friend gave me some direction on this, (and I am translating from Spanish for you, my beautiful Lady): There a pee > ; and, there a poo <. So, #1 there-a-pee is best used for demonstrating ur-in-ate talents; and #2 is for when you're really upset, and can't help but make a stink about it. I am just saying.... I risked my life every day doing extremely dangerous work, work which I loved, except for those days I saw co-workers get killed (doing high voltage line work), and what for me has ALWAYS been a tool for maintaining good mental health, (besides my Beemer motorcycle): laughter! Having a healthy perspective on life, through a good sense of humor, can be a saving grace, just as having Faith in Him, and His Grace, can also serve to keep one's inner being healthy, and vibrant, and full of Love and Light, as well! Thanks for another one of your articles, with useful info, presented by breathtakingly beautiful you! God bless! Postscript: I forgot to mention that I really like that you use PPE's, and along those lines, be sure to use something to protect yourself from dangerous particulates, which don't have be lead based to harm you. You are a mom, and your kids need you, so use everything available to protect yourself, and stay healthy, and vibrant! Bless you, Melissa! JB
The “painter” didn’t oil prime before applying the top coat. I’d use a chemical strip with pressure wash (using the correct tip/pressure) and spot sanding. Let dry completely, oil prime with tinted primer to the finish color, then apply 2 topcoats. Make sure to seal all joints/holes. Have fun. My cedar paint jobs last 20 years or more. Just lightly pressure wash/rinse once a year to remove pollen/grime.
I use to do a lot of old homes we used hand electric plainers you can adjust the thickness of the paint very well we would use a nail set all the nails then plain the paint off .With the ceader siding put a good oil base primer on first then latex paint wound fall off trust me .Girl your looking great in those shorts . 😁
Cedar will always let go of a coating like this odds are the back of the boards were never primed and the odds are that the front was never primed also cedar is never meant to hold paint it’s actually meant to hold stains and solid stains if you’re going to do anything to it but what you’re looking at here means when you sand it or grind it you’re going to destroy the natural grain of the cedar but I will tell you one thing because it’s coming off in the way that it is and the adhesion is basically minimal throughout every piece of lumber you could have used a hot water washer on this and it would have came off in SHEETS like a paper towel roll.
A good option if you don’t need to preserve grain, eg grinding fascia, is the 7 in. Fiber Disc Backing Pad from Harbor Freight and find someplace that sells higher quality discs. We use these at my work and you can get alot done and they don’t bite as bad as the diamond wheel. You do have to be careful to not leave swirl grinding marks though, so it’s good to practice in an area with less visibility until you get a feel for how each different grit disc bites. 36 grit is a good general use middle ground type of grit. Pressure Washing is good for peeling paint, but as you experienced, not great for just a little loose paint.
As a P&D I feel for you on this project as it’s one of those jobs which only has a solution through trial and error. Heat gun v sandblasting etc.I would defo set down some drop cloths as the paint shavings are so small they will go everywhere. Also, use a quality wood primer after all the prep has been completed, only after all panels are void of all moisture as you run the risk of sealing in the moisture and will I’m afraid return to stage 1.Good luck, but hard work and a quality finish will be worth it in the end.
cool grinder setup, I admire your perfectionism it makes me feel like a lazy contractor because I would want to reside that house rather than spend hours grinding all that paint off. don’t be intimidated by residing projects, its quite fun actually lots of cool (overpriced senco brand) siding gear to buy lmao. just my two cents is I would rent some scaffolding if you are going to use a corded or even your nice m18 grinder up on a ladder doing work above your head, that’s dangerous and you want to have good stability if that thing hits a big framing nail that pushed out from the sheeting underneath so you don’t get pushed off the ladder or worse have that grinder come back at you. scaffolding shouldn’t be too pricy for your job, don’t be afraid to spend money to be safe. best of luck
I worked for a time with a painting company and all we did was prep and paint buildings all day, all year, every year. Here’s how we did it. 0) Tie back anything close to walls to allow access for pressure washing and later masking and spraying. 1) pressure wash off all loose paint. 2) Let building dry for 2 days or more depending on weather (preferably warm weather for paint day at least.) 3) Tie back all trees, plants, trellises, etc. 4) Mask off all surfaces such as doors, windows, trim, roof, ground, plants, cars so no spray paint gets on them. 5) Spray paint the building. Approximately 35 gallons for a 4 bedroom single story home or two duplexes. 6) Immediately unmask everything except things that will fall into the paint such as trees, plants, trellises, etc. Unmask those about 2 hours later. 7) Go around the home hand painting any different colors or finish sheens on doors, trim, patio covers, whatever, as needed. 8) collect the money 🙂 We would finish two to three of these every day, though the hand painting to finish could take an additional day or two as there was usually only one person per house working on that ! (Some were two floors and odd in size. Those of course take longer.) Thank you for your great articles Malissa !!!
you don’t always know for sure which direction the moisture is coming from, it is possible the wood could be wet from condensation due to no vapor barrier or inadequate vapor barrier associated with bat-type insulation, it is also possible for certain kinds of insulation to get waterlogged, which could also lead to wet siding. If there is a condensation problem going on, you want to get that resolved before putting on the new paint, especially after all the work of stripping off the old paint. Some of the wood looks dry, some looks damp. You can also do a lot with a disc sander, and those come in different sizes and you can select the grit paper you want to use. The oscillating tool will probably not work too well because they get over-heated PDQ if you use them for more than a couple of minutes at a time. And if it is a pre-1978 house, you want to be REALLY sure there’s no lead paint involved with a massive power sanding project like this.
Anger is suppressed by adaptogens… Ashwahandha KSM 66, 1st thing in the morning. Everyone can be cranky from no rest. Or very strong Black tea. I used 3 tea bags at time to reduce cortisol /stress levels. Its good you protect your eyes…one little chip in your eye /eye and its not a very good day. You have alot to sand / grind !!! Sometimes I just used 120 grit discs and vacuumed up later with a shop vac…. thats a very laborious job. One area at a time.
That’s lots of work Melissa. U must be exhausted or way to strong.🙂. If I would have to choose color on siding, I would use high quality black stain . I used that on my doors outside and on my trailer and stain holds extremely well. It’s almost thick like a paint, but much, much better choice. U have a beautiful day 👍
Paint shaver for the ship lap siding. Set at minimal depth to start. Use nail sets to counter sink the nails. Don’t want to take the heads off too much. The paint shaver with the HEPA shop vacs and plastic on the ground for lead; however, I think I’d leave lead paint removal to the pros. I think in my state it’s the law, but I’m not quite sure.
Hello just came across your tutorial. I set out to paint my parents house a large ranch. The siding was cedar but cedar shake not clapboard. There was atleast 10 paint layers plus. The cedar shake is thinner and easily cracks and damages. After trying different methods I went with a heat gun over propane torch. The heat gun worked great. The paint bubbled up then I used heavy duty putty knife detach it from shake. It was time consuming going at it 7 days a week. Once I got it going it took 6 months to bare wood. I had people stop to check me out and were amazed on what I was doing.
More general paint is kind of a bad idea on cedar, it tends to crack and flake eventually. I used a pressure washer and peeled the entire paint off of a house, then repainted it with Liquid Ceramic paint. I long since moved, Google maps 101 Marshfield Place in Cary, NC, and look at the street view (the house is toward the west when on that end of Marshfield Place, looks almost gray but it’s really a light purple). That is cedar siding, painted in 2004 before the house was sold. Still looks good. Use a ceramic paint that can breathe, and push up under the edges of the siding, but still make sure the paint separates and the slats can breathe. I’m sure they haven’t repainted it, not needed. It still looked slick about 5 years ago, maybe even now with the sun on it. The ceramic paint was $80 a gallon back then, but well worth the money, goes on like cold cream and lasts. Looked fantastic and new/shiny for at least 10 years, and may still be shiny the house was in shadow when the pic was taken. Pretty sure Liquid Ceramic got bought out by Rhino or something at some point, but there is LiquidCeramic.com and that’s the same paint logo so I would assume it’s the same stuff.
From one female “Jane of all trades DIYer” to another. The only critique I have about this whole article. Is that your not wearing long pants and safety shoes. Paint and wood splinters are flying off that wheel at like 1000 rpm. And if for any reason you lost your grip on that tool, the blade or attachment, would not stop spinning fast enough before potentially cutting your leg. And that tool is heavy enough to break a toe if you dropped it on your foot wearing sneakers. Other than that, your knowledge and use of the tool on this product is great.
You’re so cute, you should have a crew of guys that want to help! Well, make sure you know them first, before letting them know where you live. The guy that said get a good scraper was on to something, the pros use a two handed type of scraper with replaceable blades, but it’s labor intensive, even with the right tools. The easiest way is probably chemical stripers. Not sure how long of a dry spell it’ll take to dry that out, but I hope it all works out for you! Good luck and be safe!
I don’t wanna talk negative but I’m a contractor since 1985 new construction and remodeling and you’ll be there forever with that. What you should do is just go get a power washer you can even get a small one but what do you want to do is get that just real sharp stream tip and that will take that stuff right off you won’t have to get on the ladder that high and it’ll be so much more production
Use a wood planer, i mean it. It takes just the paint and leave a smooth surface. All you need to do is make sure that the blade is sharp and the plane is set just right. Small planer for tight spots, long planer for long surfaces. Works like a charm. You end up with long thin strips of paint thar are easy to clean.
I don’t think you gave the painter-eat wheel on the grinder a real chance because you kept the guard on. The edge of the guard is contacting the wood before the wheel has a chance to dig into the wood adequately, although can do so to some extent on the side opposite the guard. I would remove the guard, place the wheel flatly against the wood, and play around just a little with the angle so the wheel has chance to remove the paint. If it doesn’t work, you can THEN say you tried the grinder with a paint-eater wheel. Just an observation.
If you want to keep the grain of the wood you need to use a chemical stripper. The best mechanical paint stripper is from American international tool called a paint shaver. I have two generations of that tool because they keep getting better. I done many houses with them both board siding and shingles. They have there draw backs if you don’t learn to use the tool and as I say become one with the tool. To finish wash the siding with bleach product called jomax and then you can use a water based wood preservative first then use a linseed oil based primer from california paint called troubleshoot and then coat with two or three coats of paint and you will never have an issue again for at least 15 20 years. Print nail heads with rusty metal printer before the lineseed oil primer.
Great presentation! I have suffered with similar cedar siding with 8 inches to the weather. I ended up using a painter’s tool + scraper to get the big stuff, followed by an orbital sander. Not perfect, but not horrible. I’ll try the Diamabrush for my next foray. It’s important to know where the water is coming from or you can be cursed with the same problem in the future. While a good quality primer (Benjamin Moore Fresh Start) is crucial to keep the paint sticking to tannic woods like cedar. if there’s water trying to exit from behind the board, nothing will stick. So, be sure to understand why the wood is wet and address it if necessary. At $9/foot for primed 10 inch cedar bevel siding, the materials are obscenely expensive. So repairing is great where the wood can be restored.
It is such a pleasure perusal you work on your projects. I really like how you demonstrated various ways to remove the paint. I have used all the methods in this article except for the sponge scraper. My preference is to use an abrasive disc on a grinder much like sandpapering with a coarse paper. Thoroughly enjoy your articles.
Perhaps you could use a paint remover such as made by Metabo. (link to dutch carpenter trying it out: youtube.com/watch?v=tJfoEz76lyg). Sadly the nice surface texture gets flattened out indeed. In the US a lot of Acrylic-Urethane based paints are used to cover sidings. Perhaps a more penetrating and moisture regulating system like boiled linseed based paints would do better.
Have to say that using a power washer with the jet nozzle like that will not work; it will cut into the cedar and leave lines all over. You should have tried a gentler nozzle like a fan spray. Diamabrush is fantastic and fast, but you have to have strong control on the angle and pressure or you will gouge the wood. The Paint Eater type disc most likely clogged like it did due to the high speed of your grinder. It was too fast, thus burning and melting the paint, causing it to clog. The Wagner Paint Eater tool has a much lower RPM and does a great job. The down side to the Wagner is the end of the tool is threaded, making using cheaper discs with it difficult to impossible UNLESS you save an old one and cut the threaded center off of it and use it to hold the aftermarket disc in place (will also need a spacer to center the disc if the center hole is too big).
You were unfortunately the victim of a perfect storm of bad siding applications with poor painting applications on top. There used to be a school of thought that stain was the only option for rough cedar but that’s not true. A superior acrylic paint will do a beautiful job and will last years. Obviously this cottage had not been properly maintained and that has caused multiple issues. I’m sure it was not in your budget but given the amount of work etc, this might have been a great candidate for residing
Yep, that’s all a big pain, and no really easy way to get around it. The problem comes back to haunt you 4-5 years later when it often has to be redone again. I find people might do it once or twice, but then as soon as they can afford it, they strip off the cedar siding and go with a good quality vinyl siding. Alternatively, you might just consider leaving the freshly stripped cedar siding until you can buy that vinyl siding; at least you won’t have to repaint it again and again.
Just a tip for anyone perusal this: If you want to use an environmentally friendly product that will help preserve the siding, try linseed oil paint with 5% zinc oxide (anti mildew). The oil penetrates into the wood and helps it resist rot, and when the paint starts to look faded you can just wipe linseed oil on and it’ll revive the depth of colour. It’s pretty expensive, but it’s way cheaper than the wood itself and with maintenance you can preserve exterior wood surfaces for a long time. Ideally you’d want to get the siding back to bare wood as Melissa has done here. While latex paint is cheap, unfortunately it’s a) made of plastic and b) seals the wood and doesn’t allow the siding to dry out. The keys to making wood last outdoors (beyond choosing the right type of wood) is protection from UV (paint, generous overhangs) and allowing it to dry out (don’t caulk the bottom of the clapboards or shingles, use a rain screen if doing a fresh install, don’t seal the front face with paint or god forbid, polyurethane 🤮). I’m working on an old house in Halifax, NS right now that was finished in red cedar shingles from British Columbia. The house was built in the 1940s and I believe that they are the original shingles. I actually have one sitting on my shelf right now that was backstamped by the mill (which might have come off a newer addition, so this one could be from the 1970s): HUNTTINO-MERRITT BRAND 16″-5/2″ NO. 2 GRADE 12″ CLEAR & BETTER CANADIAN FOREST PRODUCTS LTD. VANCOUVER B.
Ive done this. Is it on the West side of your house? Likely the culprit is that the water vapor in the house gets pulled through and condenses on the inside of the wood siding. I makes it moist in there and eventually will affect the paint like you have shown. Id look into ways to get a vapor barrier paint on your interior walls to help with the water vapor transfer.
First thing I’d try is a pressure washer with a turbo head to get the bulk of it off, then move on to other tools to get the rest. The bottom edges is where rain “curls” around due to water surface tension then it wicks into any little place it can and soaks. A turbo head will raise fuzzy stuff on wood so it takes a bit of practice to not go too far. Turbo heads do wear out faster than other types but they are still my favorite. When they stop spinning just bump the side while pulling the trigger to get lots more use from it, just don’t let the water hit bare skin at close range!
I apologize, in advance, for a couple things about this post. I haven’t read all the comments, so someone else may have beaten me to it. I don’t know for sure, but isn’t the ‘s’ in ‘debris’ silent? I think so. Bit of a Grammar Nazi comment, for sure, and that’s the second thing I apologize for. I’m a self-confessed GN. Sorry. That’s three things now.