Electrical considerations during a new renovation can be overwhelming, especially when dealing with home improvements like home offices, better lighting, basement apartments, hot tubs, and people spending more time at home. To address these concerns, it is essential to sketch a design plan for the room to be remodeled and determine all of the main service panels and circuit breakers. The main service panel, also known as the breaker box, is the heart of a home’s electrical system and distributes power to various parts of the house.
When remodeling a kitchen or bath, it is important to update old wiring for safety, efficiency, and efficiency. Many remodels involve adding new electrical circuits, which can improve safety and efficiency. Electrical work includes installing appliances, lighting, and plug outlets in any room, and should be done by professionals. Assessing your current electrical system involves checking wiring, inspecting panels, testing outlets, evaluating lighting, and assessing system capacity.
When buying or renovating an older home, expect a mix of wiring, aluminum and/or copper, knob and tube, or a combination of all three. Phase one is the rough-in, and phase two is the finish. A step-by-step guide to how electrical work is carried out during the construction of a house can help you understand the importance of electrical safety and installations.
In addition to the switch board, every home or property has a switch that holds your electrical equipment. Your professional electrician can include extra outlets in your renovation plan, solving the trouble of having to unplug some appliances before plugging in.
📹 How To Install Rough In Electricity In A New Construction House – Beginners Guide To Electrical
In this video I will show you how to install rough in electricity in a new construction house. This is how to do wire a new …
How is electricity generated in a building?
Buildings consume over 70% of the US electricity supply, making energy efficiency measures crucial for reducing environmental impact. Traditionally, electricity was generated at power stations and delivered to buildings using lines and transformers. Modern generation technologies like photovoltaic panels and natural gas microturbines allow electricity production at the point of use. There are various generation methods with their advantages and limitations.
How does power work in a house?
Electricity enters a home through a service head, consisting of two 120-volt wires and one neutral wire, which delivers power to lights and appliances. 120-volt circuits power standard appliances, while larger appliances like water heaters, electric rangers, or clothes dryers require a 240-volt circuit. An electric meter is mounted outdoors to measure electricity consumption, monitored by your utility company and protected by law. Tampering with the meter is dangerous and illegal. The 120-volt circuits use one phase of the electrical service, while larger appliances require a 240-volt circuit.
How does electricity work in advanced?
Voltage is measured as the potential difference of 12 volts or 24 volts across the terminals of a battery, indicating the electromotive force available to push current through a circuit. Relatively free electrons in the negative terminal move toward the excessive number of positive charges in the positive terminal, resulting in a flow or current through a conductor. A flow in a conductor requires an applied voltage from a battery, generator, or ground power unit.
The potential difference can be determined by observing the flow of electrons of electric current. For example, two interconnected water tanks demonstrate that when a difference of pressure exists between the two tanks, water will flow until the two tanks are equalized. The difference in pressure between tank A and tank B causes the water to flow, not the pressure in tank A. The flow of water is not due to the pressure in tank A, but rather the difference in pressure between the two tanks.
What is the electrical system in architecture?
An electrical system in a building is a network of conductors and equipment that safely transports, distributes, and converts electrical power from the point of generation to the loads around the building. Power conversion from 11kV networks to 230V-400V range is typically done through transformers in a substation. Conductors, typically made from copper, are used to transfer electricity, offering a balance between electrical conductivity and cost. They are typically insulated with PVC or other synthetic materials.
How does electrical installation work?
Electrical installations in the UK are crucial for power distribution, ensuring safety and dependability in various settings. They involve laying wiring, connecting outlets and switches, and installing robust grounding systems. A consumer unit or fuse box serves as a central hub for controlling and safeguarding electricity flow. Following installation, a rigorous testing phase is conducted using specialized equipment to identify and rectify any faults. Safety considerations are paramount, and qualified electricians ensure the installation complies with all regulations before deeming it fit for service.
How does electricity work step by step?
Generators convert kinetic energy into electrical energy through rotating magnets. This current is sent along wires to a transformer, which converts it into the transmission grid. Power is generated at power stations across New Zealand, using primary energy sources like water, wind, sun, geothermal energy, coal, and gas. The power produced is too powerful to feed directly into homes, as it would destroy all connected appliances.
From power stations, electricity flows through large transmission lines to substations, with high voltage to minimize heat loss. This ensures that as little electricity is lost along the journey, ensuring that the power is used efficiently.
What is the electrical installation process in a building?
The construction process of a house involves several stages, including temporary electrical installation and underground conduit, rough-in, more temporary needs, finish, modifications, and warranty. Each stage is related to the other, making it essential to have knowledge about each. East-West Electric, experts in Clearwater, Florida, explains the phases of residential electrical construction to help understand your home electrical installation. Contractors typically focus on two main stages: wet and dry, which are essential for a successful electrical installation.
How does electricity in a house work?
A home electrical system operates by using an overhead or underground service line, which enters the weatherhead and then goes through conduit to the meter. The underground type comes up through conduit and enters the meter. The line then enters the home’s breaker box, which divides the electricity into smaller lines for other locations in the house. Some lines may go to a subpanel for additional circuits. Each line is equipped with a breaker, which automatically disconnects if more power is drawn than it can handle.
After the breaker, electricity travels through household wiring to the spaces where it will be used. Wiring carries current to the house’s appliances or electrical boxes, which are fitted with switches, receptacles, or junctions. The system is brought to life when the user plugs in or turns on something.
How wiring is done in building?
The raceway and conductor method is a common type of electrical wiring, involving metallic or nonmetallic conduit or tubing with multiple insulated phases. It can also include an equipment ground conductor, depending on NEC requirements. The most common types of conductors are TTHN/THWN or XHHW in copper or aluminum, with copper being used for branch circuits and aluminum for feeders. The most common raceways used in commercial applications are:
How does electricity work simplified?
Electrons in the shells closest to the nucleus have a strong attraction to protons, while those in the outermost shells can be pushed out of their orbits. This is known as electricity. Static electricity, which exists in nature, is a form of electricity that occurs when electrons move from one cloud to another or jump from a cloud to the ground. This type of electricity can cause shocks when touched, as electrons jump to an object.
For example, when rubbing a balloon on your hair, electrons move into the ends of the hair, pushing against each other and making it stand up. Similar to how opposite charges attract each other, charges repel each other.
How does electric work throughout a building?
The panel board in a building contains a main service breaker and a series of breakers that control power flow to various circuits. These circuits serve devices like appliances or lights. Large buildings have higher electrical loads, requiring more capacity for electrical equipment. Building owners often provide step-down transformers to adapt high voltage to a usable level. In large buildings, incoming high voltage arrives at a meter and moves through a transformer.
The electricity is transmitted to switchgear, which distributes power safely and efficiently to different electrical closets. Complex buildings may have multiple transformers feeding multiple switchgear pieces.
📹 How to Install Rough Electricity in New Construction | Ask This Old House
Ask This Old House master electrician Scott Caron helps a homeowner wire her new basement that she’s in the process of turning …
Speaking as an electrician from Louisiana everything he said is 100% correct. The only thing I wish he would have mentioned is the type and correct wire to use. For most applications you can use either 14 gauge or 12 gauge. We typically use 14 gauge because it is easier to work with. The wire we use is called non metallic (NM) romex. For receptacles and single pole switches we use 2 wire with ground. For 3 way switches we use 3 wire with ground. For 4 way switches we use 4 wire with ground. What they used is called 14/2 with ground NM romex
Very helpful. If there is one thing that scares me the most about construction and home repair, it’s electrical. I know it is fairly simple, but the thought of what it can do to my home if it goes bad is so scary. I want to learn more about it so I can handle more than just hanging ceiling fans and lights, and changing out outlets and switches. Wiring help is great. Thanks for posting.
@2:20 when using auger bits with a cordless drill the way she’s doing it I’d suggest putting right hand on the battery and the left hand on the grip with your pinky on the trigger. look when she drills which direction the drill wants to twist…. those are “wrist breaker” bits @2:35 omg the angle of that drill… you might as well of just gone behind the stud with the wire lol @4:14 you shouldn’t roll the wires back in the box like that cause a sheet rockers rotozip most likely will hit those wires, and now you got a “nic” in the wire….and barley enough room to make a fix if you have to cut and tap. Push the wires in the box like an accordion that way the very end of the wire only gets damaged .. maybe. @6:44 jesus whoever wired that panel needs to not do that anymore. @7:08 “the wiring inspector” hahahahahhaahah you mean “electrical inspector” my corrections to the project: 1) use #12awg for the receptacles, people dont understand that they are allowed to use #14awg for outlets… but with the way technology is going it’s not recommended, and never underestimate someone putting in a small A/C unit. Also break up power in the room to 2 circuits and the wiring to the first outlet from the breaker, run 12/3 for “future expansion” 2) you’re turning this room into a hang out or study? I’d put different lighting in if I was you, can lights have thermal overload protectors and currently with certain LED bulbs they like to flicker sometimes. hell crown mold lighting would be amazing in that place with white walls.
Thanks for the article and the steps noted in the description. I’m wondering if there’s a certain height you used for drilling the holes in the studs for running the wire around the room? Seems like code would dictate that. Also, are metal plates required to protect the Romeo running through the studs? I found our wires were protected that way, so wonder if that is also dictated by local building codes?
Seeing how electricians drill those large holes through studs makes me wonder if anyone has ever conducted tests to see how much this weakens a stud. The studs are, after all, often load bearing structures so to have such a large cavity bored into it would seem to affect the load capacity of the timber.
It’s always so nice to be able to do your work on new construction. I know (of, at least) one woman that’s an electrician, and she says she seems spend half her time on jobs where she’s on her back, in a fourteen inch high crawl space, pushing herself along with her elbows and feet, with big hairy spiders crawling all over. How come by we don’t get to see that on these shows? Added 9/28/18: Holy crap, there’s a lot of experts out there!! Amazing that anyone else can get anything done… right! Remember, the “code” is the MINIMUM requirement; anything beyond that is usually (!) okay, too. As for the inspector: better get that green tag because if anything goes wrong, no matter who did the work, the homeowners insurance might not cover it. (Note: even the inspector gets it wrong sometimes)
Since this room is to be an office or a den, I would spec out double outlets at the places a desk or TV might go, to avoid using outlet multipliers. TVs require 3 or 4 plug-ins (TV, cable box, DVD player, game console) and computers need as many (computer, monitor, printer, external hard drive, lamp).
Interesting how different the standards are here in Germany, the used cables and the outlet boxes look quite different too. We usually drill a big round hole in the board before it comes up to the dry wall, then the cables are just pulled through, and later a round outletbox is placed and fixiated with 2 screws in the hole. Also we have a different color scheme of the different wires and ground is isolated too. We also have no wire nuts as far as I know instead we use a terminal strip or nowadays often spring-loaded terminals, which he calls push in connectors on the lamp.
It makes me cringe when I see people use the incorrect wire to save a couple dollars. Should be 12 AWG and 20 amp breaker for sockets, and 14 AWG and 15 amp breaker for lights, and I always use 14/3 for lights should someone want to add a ceiling fan at a later date; in that place a very low profile ceiling fan LOL
If not a bedroom, the AFCI breaker is insane over-kill. My preference is always to split the lights from the receptacles — as in — they get their own circuits and circuit breakers. I’d stay with 15Amp 14 gauge wire as above… unless there was some ‘trick’ load that compelled a jump to 20Amp. Then I’d run a dedicated circuit to it. ( Typical example: air compressor, sewage ejector pump, sump pump, freezer, refrigerators… { consider alarms } It is COMMON for folks to place an over-load freezer// refrigerator in the basement. Such important — but usually unobserved loads — need alarms for power loss or flooding. ) I was amazed that Scott didn’t set a single receptacle facing the wall’s exterior faces.
Why can’t electricians snap a chalk line so the holes in the studs are at the same height? There should be a standard for new construction so dry wall guys and other contractors know where not to drill into the stud like x number of inches from floor or above outlet. Like others have noted its seems to be done by the lowest guy in the crew and they don’t care where they drill nor do they vacuum up the mess they leave behind.
Use 12 ga wire for outlets vs 14 ga. Wire outlets and lights on separate circuits so you don’t pop a breaker and black out the whole room. The panel is right there. Running lights and outlets separate would be easy peasy. And where are your metal protection plates at all the stud holes. When they hang the drywall they WILL pop a screw into that Romex!
its very interesting to see the difference between UK and US wiring conventions, for example there’s no way in the UK that the cable would allowed to be run like that, it would have to be in a vertical or horizontal run from box to box or box to permisable zone within a path that is the wdith or height dimensions of the box, lighting and outlets would be on different circuits and of course outlets are switched and (usually) coinnected as part of a ring although spurs are used, also no wire nuts and no exposed earth wire (we use earth sheathing over the earth)
15 amp outlets? 18 inches to the center of the boxes? No bonds on the grounds? Lights and receptacles on the same circuit? There are too many code violations to list here. Call the inspector, he comes and looks at it, he rights a correction list based on the numerous code violations, he demands to see my license, he lectures me in front of everyone, I hire an Electrician.
Who wires outlets with 14/2? ( I assume that’s what it is because it’s white). We always use 12/2 for 20 amp outlet capability. This guy did it so he could just plug the power source wires in the back of the outlet instead of wrapping under the screws. By doing this, he made the AFCI mandatory, as the slide-in connections always loosen over time causing arcing. And the AFCI better be 15 amp rated, not 20 amp (he does not say). The first electrician I ever see plugging the power source wires in the back of an outlet instead of wrapping under the screws will be fired immediately and then escorted off my property.
I am not an electrician, but this was painful to watch. He wired that whole room on a single circuit using 14 gauge wire (I could see this for short-run, low-wattage lighting only). I would use 12 for the lights and 10 for the outlets. Might go with 2 circuits for the room. Also, wire up the ground first so YOU don’t become part of the circuit!! As for the inspector? Sure… Have fun with that…
1:15 That’s gonna way to high up. Have no idea where he got 18 inches from. As an electrician in NJ you’re supposed to go 12 inches up (13 Up if unfinished floor). EDIT: He is nailing the middle of the box on the line 🤔 This guy isnt an electrician. Measure 12 to 13 up from the floor and start the bottom of the box on your mark
Stapled within 6″ of the box = wrong. Romex must be secured within 12″ of a box 334.30 When those type of boxes are used it’s 8″ 314.17 (c) nowhere does it say 6″. Now he said strip 8″ of wire, but you only need 6″ from point of entry or 3″ from the front of the box 300.14. So I think he got those backward.
Great job….not. The way it’s wired if something goes out, a receptacle or light, everything downstream from it will go too. I too would use 12/2 for the plugs w/ 20amp breaker and run the lights on it’s own circuit. And don’t use those green ground wire nuts. I’m replacing all of those in my house. I’ve found a bunch of them where one ground wire came out of the wire nut. I’m using push connectors instead.
is there an advantage (or is it code) of drilling through the studs to run the wire horizontally around the room vs. having them come through the ceiling and down to the outlets? Also, I would appreciate seeing the entire method of running outlet cables. article just showed you jumping from one to another and then hammering in the wire staple, how are all of them tied together and are they connected in pairs in the breaker box? EDIT – I see further in, all outlets are jumped together and one main runs to a breaker. I assume the amp load is sufficient for the 8 outlets?
THAT WS 14-2 WIRE ON THEM PLUGS USE FOR LIGHTS ONLY. AND HE RAN ALL LIGHTS AND PLUGS ON THE SAME HOME RUN THAT WELL NOT PASS . USE 12-2 FOR PLUGS AND NO MORE THEN5 PLUGS ON A LINE IN ALL. SHOULD OF BEEN 3 HOME RUNS TO THE MAIN BOX 1 FOR LIGHTS AND 2 FOR PLUGS. SO MUCH FOR PLUGING ANDTHING LIKE A SPACE HEATER FIRE FOR SURE LOL
She’s like a black wire- HOT! Man, I’d like to give her a good groundin’… maybe even a three-way. I don’t think she likes me though- seems kinda neutral. Probably my fault for being such a live wire. Sometimes I can get a little amped up. Best she stay away though, I’d probably breaker heart. Sorry if what I just said was shocking. Sometimes I can be a real pig tail. Hard to gauge how I should conduct myself sometimes. Electricity puns. That’s… what I was doing there. If you didn’t notice.
You said outlets go 18 inches from floor but didn’t mention where you install the box. Is it 18 inches at the top of the box?. Or 18″ at the bottom of box? Or 18″ at the middle of the box? Other articles say 16″ at the top of the box. Same goes for switch box. Where the 48 inches are measure to on the box? Top, middle or bottom. Also how high do the cable needs to run on the studs and why is doesn’t go lower, like 2 inches above boxes? Please advise anybody that knows. Thanks in advance.
Pro Tip: If you’re expanding wiring in a larger house, just connect the same white wire everywhere, and run it all into the breaker panel with a single wire. Put it all on a 50-amp breaker to handle the increased load. Also, don’t pull permits and get it inspected when you are DIY, those inspectors are just failed contractors that like to make your job harder. Anyone can run wiring, it’s as easy as that! P.S. If you follow this advice, keep a fire extinguisher handy, never can be too safe 🙂