Installing a new threshold is an easy DIY home improvement project that can improve your entryway and prevent air and water from entering. To install a tile, marble, or solid-surface threshold or to replace a door threshold onto tile or masonry floors, use adhesive to securely replace the old one. Accuracy, the right tools, quality materials, and attention to detail are essential for this process.
To replace an interior door threshold, start by pre-drilling pilot holes into the threshold and position the threshold underneath the doorstops using a rubber seal. If the old threshold is unattractive or new flooring on one side of the doorway calls for it, you may need a door threshold replacement on the interior. A template can be used to transfer the jamb’s contours to the ends of the threshold, where matching contours must be cut.
Materials for door bars/thresholds can be wood, metal, or vinyl, depending on your preference and the location of the threshold. Styles can range from standard to unique. Door bars/thresholds are usually silver or brass colored metal or a material that matches the floor.
In some cases, door bars/thresholds can be made from various materials such as wood, metal, or plastic, depending on the needs of the interior design and personal preferences. To remove the old threshold, use a reciprocating saw and cut the threshold down the middle. You can also use a termination molding with a vertical face against which carpet is tucked.
Using a cartridge adhesive, such as Flexfix by Rewmar, is recommended for fixing aluminum nosings on main staircases without the need to drill.
📹 How To Transition Between Uneven Laminate Floors
In this video, we’ll show you how to transition laminate floors between uneven rooms. It’s a simple process that will save you time …
📹 How to Install Transitions for Hardwood Flooring (Reducer, Threshold, T-Mold) | LL Flooring
You need the best way to cover the areas where your new floor meets another room, floor, wall, or object like a staircase.
Great article. I only have about 1/4″ difference between the floors. I’m ripping up carpet in the hall (to put down hardwood) and the kitchen hardwood is higher. (Hardwood installed on top of Lino and thin plywood) Two doorways to deal with. Would a tapered threshold be OK or funky? Rip the taper on a solid oak 5″ wide board. Or is there a better solution? Thanks
As an 11-year professional commercial floorcovering estimator & quality control supervisor, I’d totally give you a high five on this. Really nicely done & excellent choice to go with the reducer in this scenario. Transitions can be one of the most frustrating and tedious components to the finished job. Look into one of my go-to project adhesives that is versatile and incredibly strong– Ardex CA 20 P. This stuff is a beast.
The couple of times I’ve had to bridge a gap of more than 1/2 inch, I got a piece of oak and ‘milled’ it with a saw to get at least a 4 inch transition. That’s because I can stub my toes on nearly anything. What you did looks like it should be fine for normal people, but I would trip over that some night on the way back to bed…
What do you do if you have a kitchen floor that’s linoleum, and its 3mm or so higher than the two adjacent rooms? The goal is to install laminate flooring throughout, with no transition, but the floor in the kitchen is higher. How do I level it out so there’s no slope down into the living room from the kitchen? With no transition piece. We want a smooth, uninterrupted flow of the laminate planks. I hope that makes sense.
I have this same situation with my bedroom remodel, except one side the floor is significantly sloped. It’s about 3/4″ out of level from one side of the door to the other. The other side is level because I just installed new LVP in the room and I used self leveling compound which came all the way to the transition. So I have about a 3/4″ difference on one side and about 1/16″ on the other. Any suggestions? Should I just get a thicker transition strip and then taper the one side down to an angle that fits the old sloped floor? I was thinking of making a little form and using some epoxy or something durable that would self level on the sloped side and then just using one of these strips. But then there would still be an obvious gap there. So it seems the only way to resolve this is tapering one side of a transition strip to the angle that the floor is sloping. Or a whole big project to resolve the floor level in the whole house which is pretty much out of the question.
It’s always a task to terminate uneven floor covering from room to room. We had to use “hardy board” in our kitchen and bathrooms as we are on a raised foundation and the tile man needed to stiffen the floors for the tile/grout. Well now the tiled floors are a good 3/4″ higher at each entrance that is not tiled. The carpet man used those long wooden shims carpenters use for setting doors and windows. So the carpet side gradually ramped up to the height of the tile over maybe 16″ to 18″ and you don’t notice it and the tranisition spot is even. Some trick I learned a couple of decades back and its satisfactory. Ever since that time, I have used those “shims” for lots of applications !
Thank you! I am having to replace the transitions in my house because the previous owners broke the ones that were installed when they were moving out. The brackets are still in the concrete, I just needed to know which transition was the appropriate one to use. This was VERY helpful! I’m off to Menards!
the 1one cement bag (in the middle only pushes down maybe 20 pounds – it is not concentrated and is no way as good as a piece of 36×3 “plywood and 3 verical studs Shimmed in to the door frame above you do not have enough contact pressure. like a car . Even a strip of 2” hard foam would be better added if no plywood
What is the thickness of your reducers? I want to install Laminate in an upstairs bedroom with an attached bath. The height of the tile in the bath from the sub-floor is 18mm. So the tile will be higher than the Laminate flooring. I haven’t found any information on how much of an offset the reducers are meant for. Not on the LL Flooring website nor your competitors. This is important since I don’t want to have to try to strip the reducer to the correct height. Which means I need to know what height the Reducer is meant to compensate for to determine the thickness of the Laminate flooring. Edit: I did a search on your website for “reducers” and it does have an option to sort by Thickness. It looks like the smallest is 7mm. When I look at those results they are actually about 12mm thick but have a difference from one surface to another of 7.2mm. So 18 – 7.2 = 10.8. So I guess I could use 10mm planks with a very thin underpad?