When spray painting the exterior of a house, it is generally recommended to apply two coats of paint for complete coverage and a longer-lasting finish. However, there are some cases where one coat is sufficient, such as using a sprayer for over 4 mil thickness or using a roller brush for a uniform finish. The material of your home’s exterior also significantly determines the number of coats needed. Porous materials like wood and stucco often require more layers to achieve full coverage.
The number of coats needed depends on factors like surface condition, desired color change, weather conditions, paint type, and proper preparation. Two coats are typically sufficient for most exterior house painting projects, while a third coat may be necessary for darker colors or surfaces in poor condition. Professional outdoor house painters recommend between 2-4 spray paint coats for proper coverage and protection.
The answer to whether to do just one coat of paint is usually “no”. To determine the optimal number of coats, consider factors like the original paint color and surface texture. If possible, two coats are better if you can afford it. Two coats of exterior paint will retain color and sheen better and longer, protecting your home more thoroughly and extending the time before the next repainting.
For best results, it is recommended to apply 2-3 thin coats of spray paint, allowing each coat to dry completely before applying the next one. When your contractor promises two coats of paint, inquire about their application method, whether spraying or using a roller brush. Most professionals opt for spraying. In most cases, applying two coats of exterior paint is recommended for optimal protection and coverage.
📹 Should I apply one or two coats of paint to my exterior?
Hi Dave Klappenberger & Son. I’d really like to talk to you and answer the question. Should I put two coats on the exterior of my …
How many coats of exterior paint do I need?
It is standard practice to apply two coats of exterior paint to a surface that has been adequately prepared and primed, particularly when painting a dark color over a lighter one. In the event that a lighter color is being applied over a darker one, the necessity for additional coats may be greater than two. To facilitate a seamless transition, it is advisable to utilise a tinted primer.
How many coats of paint do you need when spraying?
In order to achieve the most favorable outcomes, it is recommended that two or three thin coats of spray paint be applied, with each coat allowed to dry completely before the next is applied.
Is 3 coats of spray paint enough?
The third point is the number of coats needed for a spray paint job. The best results are achieved with multiple thin coats, so plan for at least two coats. For bright colors, 1-2 additional coats are recommended, while neutral or deep colors only require 2-3 coats for an opaque coating.
To determine the overall square footage of the surface area needed to spray paint, break the surface into rectangles and multiply the area by length and width. This gives you the overall square feet, which can be divided by 20 square feet or the coverage of your spray paint. If measuring in inches, multiply the inches to get the total number of square inches and divide by 144 to convert it into the total number of square feet.
Note that some surfaces have more surface area than the length by width indicates, such as textured surfaces or surfaces with numerous openings, which may result in overspray. Therefore, it is essential to factor in these factors when planning for a spray paint job.
Do professional painters use 2 coats of paint?
Paint manufacturers often claim “one coat coverage”, but it is generally true that two coats are needed for most colors, including reds, bright yellows, and oranges. However, there are situations where one coat is perfectly acceptable, such as when changing color, sheen, or if the surface is heavily scuffed up. Most paint companies only quote for one coat on trim, doors, and ceilings, as these items rarely have a color change and ceilings are usually done in flat and semi-gloss with no sheen change.
How much does a 400ml spray can cover?
The typical coverage for an aerosol spray paint with a 400ml capacity is approximately 2 square meters, with a minimum of two coats applied. The recommended film thickness is 30-40 microns per coat, although this may vary depending on the intended usage and the specifications of the product in question. It is of the utmost importance to ensure that the agreed specification for dry film thickness (DFT) is met and that areas with excessively low or high thickness are avoided.
Should I do 2 or 3 coats of paint?
Dark-coloured walls require two to three coats of paint to prevent the original color from showing through. After applying and drying the first two coats, check if the old paint is showing through. If it’s too much, a third coat may be needed. The recommended number of coats depends on the surface type and the paint’s darkness. Surfaces like unfinished wood, metal, and dark-colored walls may require more coats, while ceilings and light-colored walls typically need fewer. Keep this in mind when purchasing paint for your next project.
Is it OK to do a 3rd coat of paint?
The general rule of thumb for planning paint usage is to use a primer and two coats of paint in most situations. This may result in one more coat than needed, but it won’t harm the final product. However, there are some situations where this rule will result in too few coats, making it a prevalent advice. If you use a paint with a primer built in, you can skip the primer and go with two coats of paint.
This method won’t be the best for every application, but will suffice for most situations. Oil-based and water-based paint are the two major types, and specific rules may vary depending on the situation and surface.
Does spray paint need 2 coats?
To paint plastic surfaces, use a textured rag and a medium nylon brush to clean them with warm water and dish soap. Sand the surfaces lightly with 180 to 220-grit sandpaper, then wipe them down with isopropyl alcohol to remove fine plastic dust. Lay the surface to be painted horizontally and as flat as possible. Spray the first coat of paint lightly over the surface, holding the can at a 45-degree angle, about 8 to 12 inches away from the plastic.
Allow the first coat to dry for about 2 hours. Then apply the second coat, again spraying lightly and moving the can in one direction. Allow the second coat to dry for about 3 hours. Apply a third light coat in a similar manner.
Painting fabric works best if the material is a lighter color than the paint that will be applied. Before painting, wash, dry, and iron your fabric, not using any additives in the wash or drying cycles. Lay the fabric on a flat surface, protect the surface and surrounding areas with drop cloths, and mask off with painter’s tape as needed. If the piece has more than one layer, place a piece of cardboard, plastic, or other material between the layers to prevent color bleeding.
Test the spray paint in a hidden area before spraying the fabric. Spray the piece in a continuous stream to avoid streaks. Wait at least 24 hours for the painted fabric to dry completely. Most fabric needs to be heat set after painting to allow the paint to fully cure and bond to the fabric. Cover the front of the fabric with a pressing cloth and then iron the item from the back. A hairdryer can also be used if preferred.
Clay and other porous natural materials take paint very well. Clean the surface of any clay piece well, use 100 grit sandpaper on the surface, and use painter’s tape to mark off any areas not to be painted. Shake the can well to mix the paint. Spray a light coat of primer paint about 8 inches away from the piece, wait for the first coat to set for 3 to 5 minutes, then add the first coat of color. Wait an additional 3 to 5 minutes before spraying a second light coat. If any additional coats are needed for full coverage, wait 48 hours after the initial painting. Turn the can of paint upside-down, press on the nozzle, and wipe it with a rag.
Does 2 coats of paint make it more durable?
Applying two coats of paint can enhance the durability of a paint job, but the exact increase depends on factors like the paint’s type, quality, surface preparation, application method, and exposure conditions. Applying more coats can make the paint job last longer as long as the first coat is applied correctly. If the first coat is applied correctly and the surface is adequately prepared, the desired finish and durability may be sufficient. However, additional coats may be necessary for a certain level of opacity or finish, which is different from longer paint job durability.
How many coats of exterior paint with sprayer?
Professional painters often offer two coats of paint on their contracts, but it’s important to determine if you received two coats. The thickness of the paint is measured in mil thickness, with Sherwin Williams having a minimum 4 mil wet standard. A sprayer can achieve over 4 mil thickness and provide a uniform paint job, while a roller brush requires two coats and takes more time and labor. If a contractor claims two coats using a sprayer, ask about the drying process.
Sherwin Williams offers products like Duration, Resilience, SuperPaint, and A-100 Exterior that can paint down to 35° F. Traditional latex-based paints require temperatures above 60° F to cure properly, and warmer temperatures allow latex particles to melt together. Painting typically occurs during summer, but Spring and Fall are also possible.
To ensure proper drying time, check the paint label or ask your contractor about temperature recommendations and ranges. Water-based paint, also known as latex paint, dries quicker than oil-based products and requires 4 hours of dry time before applying a second coat.
📹 The Cheapest Way to Paint a Car with AMAZING Results!
In this episode we put to the test the cheapest and most basic paint system to paint a car and the results will shock you! Hit the …
Painted an entire 99 Durango with a small bostitch pancake compressor a $10 yard sale 20 y.o. Suction fed Ingersoll Rand gun, a gallon of Rustoleum gloss black thinned out and clear coated and it came out amazing. This was almost 2 years ago and it still looks great to this day and the owner gets compliments on it all the time.
This is definitely the kind of motivation I needed. I’m not a body guy by any means, but I need to redo the rockers and bumpers on my truck. I’ve been told time and time again that a 6 gallon compressor just isn’t enough for painting. Considering no one can really explain why, I figured I would buy one…if all else fails, at least now I have one to fill tires with. Though I do remember a guy I used to know years ago telling me that painting isn’t as hard as people make it…there’s nothing you can’t fix and redo with painting.
#1 thing that help a small compressor: remove restrictions! Look inside a 1/4″ air fitting. Tiny hole. Use a good 3/8″ hose and get 3/8″ fittings with 1/4 npt threads. I have a 15-16 gallon California Air Tools oil-less compressor that advertised 5.4cfm at 90 psi. I could see the pressure drop and when I paused could hear the hose fill back up with air! Upgrading the fittings for higher flow made all the difference in the world. I also tapped into the air below the switch (straight off the tank) and installed a 3/8″ filter regulator. I can run a die grinder, mini belt sand, or palm DA constant now.
That was one of the greatest things I’ve seen in my life. But, you have to consider the painter. Like that saying “It’s not the arrow. It’s the indian”. A bigginer wouldn’t get those results. But, with a couple years of practice or consistent work. You proved its not impossible. Good shit man, good shit!!
Thanks for posting this one. I’m looking at getting a compressor soon but I’m leaning towards a 20-30gal. It won’t be used for painting often (maybe a couple times over ownership) but I’m definitely looking to repaint my beater, or at a minimum, parts of it. I figure I’ll just do a couple panels at a time.
Your article now is giving me. the confidence to paint my wife’s car. One day I was washing it with the power washer when I notice the paint started to pill off 😮. I use a small compressor like this one to paint a few doors in the house and it did a great job, but I was wondering if it was good enough to paint the door in the car. Plus maybe I can do a clear coat in my car. Here in Florida, the sun kills the clearcoat (well it is a 2010 Mitsubishi) even dough paint is in good condition. Anyway, thanks for the article!💪🏽
First time viewer due to a YouTube recommendation. I like it. You seem to really know your craft. I clicked on it because I love cars. Paint is out of my range with knowledge but I’ve always wanted to have a classic and have it “boat painted” as I would call it. Tons of flake. Always wanted a blood red (like the same color when it’s leaking out of you) with huge gold boat paint flakes. I know having it as a daily driver is what I want but unrealistic as you can’t match it if you get chips. Anyway nice article. Good on you for stepping outside your comfort zone and trying it for giggles.
Great article. I’m just beginning and I appreciate your explanations on how to get the best you can out of a small setup. I do have a question. What size hose are you using from the compressor to your gun? I was using a 3/8″ hose and switched to a 1/4″ hose and it helped my compressor when using other power tools. Would that help with painting?
After perusal some of your articles a while back I got one of the purple guns from Harbor Freight to spray oil based enamel on wood work at my brother’s house. At first we tried using his 10 galon compressor but there was no way it could possibly keep up. I brought over my contractor’s compressor that can handle multiple framing nailers and it did the trick. Major props to you on being able to overcome your limitations and get that incredible finish.
I’m actually, pleasantly surprised, I’m wondering if the gun is offered in HTE/HE, would probably help that little compressor since they use less cfm than HVLP, of course your experience helped this job come out better than someone who is brand new at this, but you showed that anything is possible ! Great job 👏🏻
A hint for cleaning the gun: Put 1/8 cup of acetone in the container (small amount), shake it and spray after shaking for few seconds. Put another small amount of acetone, shake it and spray. If needed the third time, until the spray is clear. Empty the gun and dry it by spraying only air trough it and You shall have a nice clean gun and all the websites in it without the rags and s..t.
The problem with using a small compressor for painting a whole car is air capacity. You need to have enough air to be able to do an entire coat at once. If you paint an area, let it dry while refilling tank and then spray another area, the over spray goes over where you already painted. You can still use a small compressor, but you would have to do it in sections, complete each section and then tape off that section when it dries and paint the next section. This will take about 3 weeks.
Hi Brian. This article helps a lot to build confidence and start spraying. I have a question and it’s not a real world situation. For a panel with scratches in clear coat, can I DA the panel with a P800 or P1000 and reapply clear coat? I.e. go over the original basecoat and clearcoat with new clear. Will this look bad or it’s a standard practice in blending jobs?
I really appreciate your articles. I am learning a lot. They have given me the confidence to do the paint job on my car myself. I just need to finish w/ the rust repairs. I am more interested in these at home articles. Conditions, equipment and scenarios that the typical person perusal your article will be working in. I especially like the product reviews and demos. I noticed this weekend that Harbor Freight now has a copy of the original 3M PPS system, called the SPECTRUM Universal Paint System. $19 for starter kit w/ total of 5 liners/lids. Adapters are $9 each. I would like to see you do a review of that system and comment on it. They also have a Braun Color Match Light for $39. In my price range vs the Sun Light. Once again, I do not know how it compares.
3rd vid ive seen on your website, how do you avoid the splotchy effect? How do i get that factory mirror finish without distortions at home? does it have anything to do with hookin up a 12v source to the car/ paint gun, sigh… I have to apologize, i used to to detail cars/ boats and I always thought it was annoying to be able to see the defects up close, then have to add extra, or correct with compound polish to the best of my ability
Having done a few small and medium jobs with a detail gun (and I REALLY like them) but not quite as small a compressor, I’m betting that the 1.0 tip would be the sweet spot. Yes, the smaller tip needs less air to atomize the paint, but they also spray less paint overall, so where the smaller tip will help make up for the limited air supply as you go smaller on a large surface like a fender you’ll find that it gets harder/takes longer to get coverage and maintain a wet edge. With the .8 tip you’ll have problems with that it will just take FOREVER and you’ll be fighting moving too fast for what the gun is doing and maintaining a wet edge. It will be the same problem as the traditional issues with rattle can paint jobs, where it will be hard to keep things wet, get things covered and prevent tiger striping (now spray cans and spray can nozzles have gotten much better in recent years making this not as much a thing with the name brands). I like a 1.0 and even a .8 on stuff that doesn’t have large flat areas (projects that I can think I’ve done with smaller tips that I’ve liked were things like an engine crane and a moving dolly), but smaller than a 1.0 would be a nightmare on a fender or door. Without the limited air supply, the 1.2 is really the correct choice for a job like that. If you were doing this with a good 15-20gallon or any 30gallon the 1.2 would be the choice (or a fullsize LVLP gun).
I’m intrigued by this article by what you were able to do with a 6 gallon small compressor. I’m in the process of painting my girlfriend’s car tomorrow which she has been begging me to do and I’m a brand new DIY never sprayed a vehicle before person. I purchased multiple guns because I’m not sure which one to go with yet Harbor freight HVLP (6 cfm), a throop HVLP Amazon special (14.5 cfm), and my buddy lent me his Devilbiss gravity feed sprayer. I’m not quite sure what CFM this one requires. But out of those three which would probably be the best choice as a DIY first time newbie spring sealer, base coat, clear coat on a Miata with a 20 gallon compressor? I already have a multiple Airlines, long linear feet, to cool the air and an inline filter. Just wondering what the best choice would be for me
I know you mentioned at the end doing helmets and smaller projects with that gun. With that being said would you personally recommend it to do only graphic/stripe work on a vehicle. I have a 85 S10 that I want to paint some small stripe work down the sides of and some small graphics on the hood. I’m leaning towards a mini gun for the precision but want a good one first and foremost. 🍻
Thanks for making this. I’m inspired now to tackle mine. I have a 2008 Accord sedan with original darker red metallic paint. There’s a spot on the lower half of the drivers door, about the size of a paint can lid, where the clear is coming off. Strange it’s the only spot on the whole car. The rest of the paint is good. When spraying new base & clear, do you always blend into the adjacent door and front fender or can I tape off and spray just that door? Was also wondering if I can tape off the upper 1/2 of the door leaving a rolled up paper edge so no hard tape line and try blending into the upper part of door where the paint’s still good. I’m going to buy & try this like you did with the .8 ver. Astro in my garage with an old 5hp. 30gal. Craftsman. Or given its low spot on door and size, should I just rattle can it with 2k clear like you did in your other article? Decisions, decisions… Any suggestions appreciated.
Got my bumper plastic welded up thanks to that article you put out on that subject already $350 ahead on just the bumper savings by fixing that vs replacement… Now onto More of your content about painting …I hoping I can get a little nugget advice / info .. I have one paint booth I can rent but it is a 1 hour drive away … Not a big deal the drive but I am trying to figure out if I can do all my sanding at my house then just clean it up after I arrive then there is the idea that I am painting my car two colors .. or I might just go straight glossy black … Water spots and washing annoyance ah well… If I go two colors I having a hard time finding just where I should make the split with the roof … Paint the A Pilar black or make that red and just use the website on the roof to split the red and black there … Car is a 1999 Subaru Legacy Sedan …I don’t think color choice is overthinking and breaking the ‘its just paint’ mantra 😁 Appreciate any advice you might offer … Thanks 👍
One thing I wasn’t clear about — and I’m sorry if you’ve already answered — at one point in the article you said a 0.8 nozzle might work better at atomizing the paint. But at the beginning you said your gun had a 1.2 nozzle. So did you end up using a 0.8, or did you use the 1.2 for the whole job? Other than that, great article, I’m going to give it a try.
This is all about skill… I have none … but I really like this article. I want to do it, but I really don’t want to spend thousands on a massive compressor (and also a space issue) to do it occasionally. Basically I want to clean up our off roaders on occasion. I’m more a hobby guy … just my models got bigger. So I’m trying to see if I can use this 20 gallon, 2.5 hp compressor that my wife got me (at a yard sale). I want to tackle her Sidekick and get rid of the scrapes and rust on the body, and the same with our other two Jeeps. Then go out and do it all again. Really, I just wanted to try painting a car. Then may never do it again.
Where do I buy the paint for the plastic cannister? Do I just buy a rattle can and spray it all in there? Nobody ever answers this very important question . How do I buy that paint? What am I looking for exactly, I have the paint code, how do I ask for the right product to fill the cannister on the little paint gun? Thanks
Too cool…painted my first car 3x…absolutely no previous experience…then watched a couple of your articles…the 3rd time… 2 base coats, 800 hand sand, itcame out well with no experience to judge it by. Applied 3 coats of clear and cut it down with 800, 1000, 1500, 2000… Applied the rotary with fine polish and was completly blown away with the results. I got several compliments… Kbowledge comes from a book or articles, but wisdom comes from experience.. So in closing. Thanks… So dont be scared…Its only paint…😊
Please keep in mind that this a High VOLUME Low Pressure gun (aka HVLP). You kept mentioning the pressure to atomize the paint but this is all based on the SCFM flow rate the VOLUME and not pressure. That pancake compressor only supplies 2.6SCFM (see the red tag @ 1:05) at MAX when most spray guns require 5-6 SCFM minimum. You also mentioned a 6 gallon compressor in your narrative but again, the size of the tank is not the most important factor – it’s the the FLOW sir! The SCFM is the most critical aspect of the equation.
I’M SO PISSED! SOMEBODY HELP ME…. I applied 3 coats of turbo black spray paint in my truck door and got a few small drips so gave it two hours to dry and I lightly sanded it and when I went to apply another light coat over it to cover it the paint came on and is looking like cracks or shatter glass of that makes sense… How do I fix this!?!?!?
In 1995, I painted my 1987 firebird with what was probably a 40 year old paint gun at the time. Used black enamel paint with hardener. I used a 10 gallon compressor. Tested it out on the garage refrigerator before painting the car. About half way through the paint job, the fuse kept blowing. We went through 5 fuses before I found that the problem was with the compressor cooling fan. It had broken and fallen off. Grabbed a couple of window fans and pointed it at the compressor full blast. Problem solved. I had to go back to college for the week so I came back and wet sanded the paint for a perfectly smooth finish. About 2 months ago I sold the car to a salvage yard since the floor boards were gone and it wasn’t worth fixing. Before I sent it off, I gave it one last was and I was amazed at how shiny the paint still was considering I probably only washed it a couple times since I painted it back in 1995. I’m sure she’s already been stripped of usable parts and sent to the crusher.
Instead of a mini gun you can also use an LVLP (Low pressure low volume). I used a sprayit SP-33500k with a Bostitch 6 gallon pancake compressor to spray my del sol front bumper, hood and license plate panel and it came out looking as good as factory. The air would start running out about half way into a panel but I would just wait 20sec then continue.
I use the harbour freight paint gun the bigger one and use my 1962 giant air compressor thast was made for painting cars and I use Rust-Oleum or even the paint that was mixed wrong or the shade or tint came out off and the auto body supply store sells those by the pints or gallon for very cheap like a hundred dollar can of paint that the tint was slightly off I only paid 10 dollars for it and I use that paint alot more for painting cars on the side for people as a side gig to make extra money on the weekends. My main customers are people who have bought a old early to mid 2000s car for their 16 year old or ppl who just want a fresh paint job on their daily driver that they use just for going to and from work and they don’t mind the tint being off slightly and they usually don’t care on the color and understand that the color they want won’t be cheap if they don’t have something close on the discount table. It’s so much fun taking these cars with faded sun wore paint and making them look like new and giving them a new life. I also buy and re sell vehicles so I’ll repaint them and fix any mechanical issues and then resell them for profit.
Even a mini HVLP uses around 6cfm, but that pancake is going to be under 3cfm even a 40psi. A better choice would be a full size LVLP gun like the SPRAYIT SP-33000K which only uses around 3.5cfm….Though personally I wouldn’t even try to use the LVLP with that compressor either cuz Oil less compressors have plastic compression rings that absolutely will melt if you push the compressor beyond it’s duty cycle….Anyhow, I can’t say I’ve painted a car with one, but i did paint a washer, dryer and refrigerator all at the same time with the SPRAYIT LVLP and can report one of those cheap 8 gallon direct drive oil lubricated compressors will keep up with it no problem whatsoever.
Love your articles. I’ve run into a couple questions. (By the way, I am painting a waverunner for my grandson. It’s looking good.) Question. I am using “Topside 1 part poly” and am spraying with the R500 gun you recommended. First, the nozzle is really tight from the factory. I’m concerned about adding more pressure to unscrew it ( for cleaning). Should I be concerned about causing damage? Any tips for removing it. Next, the topcoat has an orange peel look. Should I sand it flat before spraying a 3rd (thin) layer? Finally, the paint doesn’t call for a clear coat. Should I add one anyway for its hardness and protection and if so, what do you recommend? Thank you so much. Love your work. Joe M Kansas City
The key is to observe the air consumption of the gun with the air output of the compressor. This will let you know whether the compressor can keep up or not. And bear in mind that if the compressor is running constantly, than the chance for water forming in your lines increase. As the compressor pumps, air heats up from the compressor motor. As it travels through your lines it will cool down causing condensation to develop which can then come out as you spray.
Can you do a vid of painting a full car with this detail spray gun with a larger 15 gallon compressor? Also, can you use 3 or 4 (15 gal) compressors to get the required CFM to spray paint a car with an normal larger size HVLP? Or running that many compressors create too much heat? (And obviously noise too).
Brian, living in Florida (a much more humid climate) was there much water coming out of the gun while you were painting, with that pancake air compressor? I have a husky 21 gallon and live in the Az desert and it seems to be putting out a ton of “wet” air while I use my regular air tools. I wouldn’t want to run a spray gun, with that amount of moisture coming out.
Not factory smooth but not bad at all. I watched another article where a “SprayIt” brand LVLP spray gun was used with a 21 gallon compressor to paint an entire car. It was kind of slow going but the end result was smooth and primo! Very little over spray is the big benefit to these low volume/low pressure “garage guns”.
If you take this route to paiting, and I have before, bear in mind one important thing. The air pressure it says on the paint can, is the pressure required AT THE GUN. You will lose air pressure from the length of the hose, the longer the hose, the more air pressure gets lost. This means you have to compensate by turning up the pressure at the compressor to get the specified air pressure at the spray gun. If i recall it was something like 10 pounds per foot over a specified hose length but, please check a real chart to tell you how to compensate at the compressor!
Was it me that made that pancake comment? lol. I painted my van with a pancake compressor, did it piece by piece and came out good. not amazing but good enough to where people compliment it. I did single stage gloss oil though so no need for clear coat. Gonna redo it soon in a different color, just the prep takes forever and ever and ever lol..
Really found this article good as it is aimed at most of us who don’t have spray booths or big compressors and tinker about at home. Very impressed how it turned out and i do understand that it turned out better because of your understanding of how paint works out of a gun but it does show what can be done with practice, Thank you for this and any more hints for the person tinkering at home. Big 👍 from the UK.
Another thing a good painter knows is when to stop. I have seen so many people trying to without any experience and they will keep laying it on putting 4 coats or more of clear. I always thinking you’re wasting money and causing issues for you because you don’t want paint that thick. Great article seeing that you’re able to get a result like that with a pancake compressor.
Awesome work. I remember how when I first got into airbrushing, so many pros were always commenting how doing this in your home could kill you and cause an explosion, etc, etc, etc. As if people would be too dumb to know how to ventilate and as if they’re trying to paint an entire car/frame at once. Thank you for showing this is not only possible, but successfully doable.
Haha yeah! Brian makes it possible! … I once did two full repaints with a 1.0mm touch up gun and 1.5gallon 1.5hp Ryobi compressor ($100) … Interesting enough! The compressor just gave enough air consistently to do one full panel at a time … The compressor also builds up full pressure in less than 20seconds … I believe this set-up is surely a hack! … … … Much Appreciation for you Brian for having liberty in your vocation to share openly
Idk if you’ll see this comment but it would be pretty cool if you could do a whole series of articles like this with different sized compressors. All the way to like a 15 gallon. I know me personally I don’t have access to a 240v outlet to run a 60 gallon compressor. I’m pretty sure a 15 is as large as I can get away with for home jobs. I’m sure there are many people in the same situation
So why do people charge 3500-6500 for paint jobs I really don’t get it… Yes, it takes time, yes it’s not easy, but shouldn’t traditional paint prices be about half of what people charge normally? I saw a article about 200$ paint job from start to finish…. I mean, if you can take a car and make it look great for 200$ and if you only need a few days to complete the task, how on earth is it 5k for the job to be done? Are there places that do paint jobs for cheap? What’s the main differences between a 200$ job and a 6500$ job?
i am restoring my volvo 240 from 1983 and i have everything to paint the enginebay. but it turns out that the rest of the body has so much tiny rustspots that the best option is painting the complete car. I have an old 1950’s 100L air compressor. new paint gun and stuff. Any advise on spraying the complete car? Thinking about doing the body first. and the doors, trunk hatch and hood later. it’s volvo 189-2 polar white. would love to get some comments on this on how to start. do the enginebay first and build the engine in then do the rest? or all at once?
Hey there! I stumbled upon your website. My parents just passed and we inherited their 09 civic, there is tons of bare metal showing but no rust. I have rebuilt everything but need to get an entire car paint job. I’m not sure if maaco still does that 500 job or not. I have a 26 gal air compressor equipped with 1.8 HP 4-pole induction motor and dual oil less pumps provides high air flow of 4.5 CFM at 90 PSI with 150 max psi. I have never painted anything more than my patio furniture with it. Just curious your thoughts. Obviously we are not looking for show room, but right now it’s bare metal and faded paint.
I have actually done whole cars with a 20 gallon at 4CFM. Everyone says you can’t do that. Everyone is wrong. I also ran my impact hammer, air ratchets, grinders and air hammers with it. I owned that compressor for 25 years and used out for everything without a hitch. It’s replacement gives 5CFM, which everyone will also tell me isn’t enough to do all of these things. But if I could always do it with 4…5 will get things done. I have always been amused at how many people tell me I can’t do things, while I am doing them. Now a pancake…no…I would not try that, haha. But if it is getting it done for you, bro…good onya!
I picked up the Devilbiss SLG610 for my first spray gun, for base and clear… For £70 i really didnt expect much from it, But got it because its a Conventional aircap, But low CFM, and i have a small compressor.. But i sprayed my car and my wheels, As a total novice, and it came out absolutely beautiful… Love the spray gun, especially for its price… and love thats its a conventional aircap, I dislike all this HVLP, LVLP stuff.. I have a 1.7mm HVLP just for primer, and damn it uses the air 😛
Well here’s my 2 bits of info. I’m going to paint the hood of my car over. I bought a 10 gallon 135 psi 1.8 hp, 5 cfm at 40 psi compressor. Cut in pressure is 105. I was worried the cfm won’t be adequate. However I got lucky. I ran my 7 cfm spray gun with water and after a minute the compressor kicked in and thankfully maintained pressure at about 100 psi for several minutes. Maybe the cfm of the spray gun is actually lower than stated. This is more than enough time to make a complete pass on a panel. Your spray gun operates at about 35 psi. So this compressor should work if my logic is correct.
What is the max cfm on that compressor at the desired/gun-spec operating pressure? I’m guessing if you had a small compressor with just a little more volume than that pancake compressor you could make due with that pretty well. Perhaps 3x the tank volume of that one. You’d still be in a budget-class compressor for sure but I bet you could make it work pretty nicely.
Here I am a paint rookie showing people how to replicate a PRO paintjob in a garage environment with proper volume, pressure, refrigerated air dryer, multi step filtration, clean spray areas, high quality products, pro spray guns, proper booth air filtration etc…and then there’s brian a true professional paint and body guy breaking out the pancake compressor and ceiling fan garage paint job. Great job with unexpected results!
Very helpful article. I want to sell my old car, which is in excellent mechanical condition, but terrible cosmetic condition (Mitsubishi seems to have this problem of paint peeiling of and rusting after 10 years), so I decided to repaint it before selling. I can afford to invest some money into it, but not to a point where it will cost more money to repaint it than to sell. So I will obviosly not be investing into a 50 gal compressor, but 20 gal might do a job.
Hi Bryan!!! Have you considered the Harbor Freight 92126 4oz. detail 0.6mm mini hvlp spray gun, which is small, has a swivel aluminum cup that can rotate 360 degrees to paint both horizontal and vertical, I saw a article and seems awesome flawless finish, is small enough to be used on a pancake 6 gal air comoressor. We would like to see a review on that HrbFrgt 92126 small detail sprat gun. Thanks, Great work on your education website Paint Society!!!
Pretty awesome. Wonder how well it’d do with a slightly bigger 30 gallon? I’ve got a HF 29 gal that’s advertised at “5.9 CFM @ 90 PSI, 7.3 CFM @ 40 PSI” I don’t see a CFM listed for this gun? anyone have that available? You recommend the .8mm tip for the smaller pancake, would you recommend the 1mm or 1.2mm for a larger 30 gallon? That orange peel looks kinda factory for older vehicles. EDIT: also, what compressor hose are you using? is that flexzilla?
Brian – is it key to use a detail HVLP gun instead of a full size one? I’d think you’d have bigger problems losing your wet edge but I don’t really know. I’ve got both a detail and full size HVLP gun…but a crummy little compressor (next step up from pancake but still tiny). Which gun should I use? Big one or little one?
Hey there, great article, but I was wondering what you will think if I used a Husky 20 Gal 200 PSI, 4 SCFM @ 90 PSI Compressor instead of the pancake compressor you used. Will it be significantly easier for panels compared the pancake one you used in this article. Will it be more consistent in the since were I don’t need to change the amount of paint coming from the gun often to have the correct wetness? Only planning on doing panels for upcoming projects.
I’m planning on painting my SUV. Would you recommend doing it this way? Or with an electric hvlp gun similar to the Wagner control spray 250? If I choose to use my bostitch 6 gallon compressor should I use an LVLP gun instead of HVLP considering they require less air pressure? Any advice would be helpful. I know you said this kind of setup is better for doing a couple panels but I know I can get good results on the entirety of a car. There are some nice looking electric spray guns on Amazon for $50-100 but is it really worth it when this article shows that a small compressor can get it done with enough practice and finesse.
Will you please do a article about selecting sealer, base coat and clear coat. Essentially, everything we’ll need to do our own paint job including what spray gun to use for each. I’ve purchased around $1000 worth of tools based on perusal your website-thank you- but still don’t know what materials (paint) I need. I’m very technical, was a maintenance test pilot for 28 years in the Army, but have never tried to paint. I’m not gonna worry about haters regarding buying the expensive paint guns. I believe every job begins with quality tools that last. So, don’t over think it, it’s just paint… but what paint?
It can be done! Nice. So what paint products do you recommend on a budget? Paint filters, tack rags, paint prep, gun cleaning, primers, sealers, base and clear coats, sanding tool, ect? Things of this nature. I’m in the process of doing rust repair/fab work on my 71 beetle and have been doing plenty of chassis painting with DTM epoxy’s, that are forgiving due to component locations on the vehicle. However, When it comes to the body work, i want it right. Any help, links to articles, or products would be awesome! Keep up the awesome content. Love your articles.
Thanks for posting this. Where do you get the Honda color match paint from? Is there anything you need to do to the paint to make it spray better? I painted my 2008 Honda Interceptor with ColorRite rattle can paint, and it only lasted 2 years. After that the paint pretty much disintegrated and peeled off.
Hi Brian, what type of paint gun and nozzle would you recommend for epoxy priming and high build priming of bare steel bicycle frames? Full size gun with big nozzle as suggested by paint manufacturers for doing panels or can I do the job with a touch up paint gun as well, maybe thinning the epoxy and the high-build to flow out of a small nozzle? I am concerned that a full size gun will have a lot of waste overspray as well as not be able to fit between the bicycle tubes to reach some tight spots on a bicycle frame. Thanks
Would you be able to tie two compressors together to make a “super size” tank and take advantage of two compressors kicking on to keep the CFM up and tanks charged? I have a 40 gallon craftsman as well as a 55 gallon Home Depot compressor but haven’t “married” them together yet. I’d love to hear your thoughts on it.
I used rubber seal 1 to 1 clear with a HVLP gun and 40 pounds of air to the gun and 10 pounds of air out . The clear came out like little balls but then leved out like a sheet of glass and didn’t need to buff it for orange peel and I was using a 3/8 hose and fittings to make it a true HVLP gun . Try it . It will work great very low over spray and less wast . We sprayed 4 coats on a full car paint job and use only 2 quarts of paint and 2 quarts of clear doing that way
Maybe you should try using a 20 gal compressor and try an overall or 15 gal. I’ve noticed if you stop and just wait on the edge you really don’t lose it by The time your compressor catches up. Simple rule. Stop when the compressor turns on. Wait 20 sec or 30 theb start again. I’ve done both 60gb and 20 and 25 gal and u don’t see any issues. I do see on acrylic enaamle if you continue to spray while losing pressure you’ll change the shade. But I think you can do it. Try that for a vid
Brian, I own a R500 sp3000 LVLP gun. I was pleasantly surprise at the results. the paint came out very smoothe. It needed no buffing. However I used it only once and I Took off the needle to clean the gun. when I replaced it, the gun never sprayed well again. A LOT OF AIR BEGAN ESCAPING through the trigger area. what I did not realise, is that the air set up and the paint set up were all in one. can you advise me how to correct this situation?
Ok.. I have watched a lot of your articles. I have learned a lot. I didn’t think I would subscribe. But your professionalism and great reviews made me pull the trigger on joining. I am now thinking about buying my own gun to do small projects. Keep up the good work. I look forward to seeing more reviews on guns. Thanks.
I painted an entire 1979 Lincoln Continental with like 50 cans of spray paint undercoating, rustoleum blue and black and Rust-Oleum clear coat. Used aircraft paint remover to strip the paint off Spent like $700 on spray cans but I didn’t have to buy an air compressor and the car drove in the parking lot gold and drove out blue and black LOL.
I would love to see a article about the Iwata LPH80 1.2 with a small compressor. I’m thinking about getting it for my Cerekote spraying but wondered if I could do bumpers and fenders reasonably with a small compressor at home. Air consumption is comically low on the LPH80, it would suit a small compressor I’d think. Love your articles, I watch them multiple times!
I have a 24litre 9.6 cfm compressor here in the U.K.. I have some disabilities a painting a car is well beyond my physical capabilities but it’s great for staining and spraying a finish onto my small wood project and painting my attempts at fabrication (grinder and paint make me the welder I ain’t). I can also run my small cut off wheel, die grinders etc. For me it’s a perfect size though if I was able bodied I’d look for at least 100 lites space permitting.
wow…this was such a good article to stumble upon. I have a used cop crown vic and the roof paint was chipped when the light bar was taken off….over time it flaked and my 1st attempt to fix w/rattle cans was not good. I have the same sized compressor but I never thought I had any options. I’m going to mimic exactly what you’ve done here. I’m pretty sure the prep work is knocking loose chips off/sanding/spread filler/sand/repeat the filler n sand then prime and paint. I need to find a article explain the filler/sanding. Its common sense but I’ve never done it before.
Great article!!! Have a question hopefully you can provide / share answers. I have a motorcycle I like to paint. Do I need to strip it down to bare metal or can I remove the clear coat and use the current paint as a base to paint over it. The current paint is in good shape and the body does not need body work.
Please may I ask for opinion/help? Thinking a respray of my white sprinter (big van) to black using a 50L/10gal tank. With no inside space to park in for work, what are the negatives to painting panel by panel over a period of days? What sanding techniques are used to prep the factory white panels? Are you sanding between primers, bases or clears? Any advice on painting sills or interior door areas? Paint:Thinner ratios are dictated by the paint, correct? Thank you very much
Just for fun I am going to paint my 2008 Chevy Avalanche and change the color. It is currently three colors and has a hole in rear quarter panel that I can stick my hand in. If I were looking for paint gun for around $150 or less what gun would you recommend? Also could you tell me approximately how many gallons of paint an Avalanche would take to repaint. I do plan to do door jams and remove windows. But I do not plan to do inside of the entire inside of the fenders or the underside of the hood. I know I will use much more paint that you will. I am just curious if you have an estimate?
Did you switch to the .8 for the clear? I am do glad I sprung for the biggest compressor I couldn’t afford. LOL I just don’t have the patience to paint like that. I did find the lowest cfm gun I could find so I could really hang it out when painting. I have a small home shop and hang that super thin painted plastic as curtain walls to protect the shop from overspray and the drying paint from the shop. Also use builders paper on the floor, which looks like you did as well. Been having good luck so far. 3rd car painted and next one almost ready for blaster and body…then paint.
It’s funny I’ve sprayed for bout 10 yrs now and I started learning how to achieve as close to that kind of results using rattle cans which btw is also possible but requires a ton of compensating, perusal paint, experience with humidity, distance/coverage, air flow and paint brand dry times anyway it can be done with rattles as well but now that I got my hands on a mini hvlp 1.0 using a 3 gallon 125 psi mastercraft compressor – 3.0 cfm @ 40 psi which for me is good enough I don’t typically spray big projects and even if i did ive got the patience for it, usually small to medium objects so anyway, all my rattle cans became my source of paint just had to extract the paint then seal in seperate labelled jars now I’ve got all sorts of colors to play with but I ran out of things to spray so perusal spray articles until then!