The door frame should be determined based on whether it is for the exterior or interior. Exterior door frames require headers to support their heavyweight, while interior doors are smaller and lighter. However, installing a header for these doors can be less durable due to the materials used. Technical construction issues must be addressed when installing headers, as improper installation can cause damage to the house.
A door header size calculator can help determine the correct size of wood beam to use as a header for your door or window. The size of a load-bearing header for an exterior wall depends on several factors, but in general, a 2-2×8 size of header can span from 0′ to 4 feet opening, while a 3-2×12 size can span from 4′-1″ to 6.
Load-bearing headers are not required in interior or exterior nonbearing walls. A single flat 2-inch by 4-inch member may be used for openings up to 6 feet. In non-load-bearing walls, a doorway doesn’t need a structural header, and a 2×6 header is strong enough for a 3-foot-wide door opening. If exterior door framing needs to be cut for a larger opening, it should be cut accordingly.
To install an exterior door, follow these guidelines for prepping, dry-fitting, installing the exterior frame, sealing, casing, and flashing the frame. Building your own door frame can save money, provided you have the time, skills, and tools to do the job correctly. Pre-made door frames are generally easier to buy.
Headers are required for all door openings, as they provide support, strength, and stability to the top and side sections of the door frame. Interior doors will need a header of either 2″ x 4″ or 2″ x 6″, while exterior doors require a minimum of 2″ x 10″. It is important to check with a builder before installing a header for a load-bearing wall.
📹 All about headers in Wall Framing – Construction Trades Training Lesson
This lesson provides the basics of Headers in Residential Wall Framing. This is one lesson in our wall framing series designed to …
Do exterior windows need headers?
Headers are wood members that transfer loads above openings, creating openings for windows, doors, and interior passageways. They serve a structural purpose by collecting and redistributing the weight of above openings to adjacent studs. The depth of the header is determined by the weight from the structure above and the width of the opening. Grademarks identify species, grade, grading agency, and mill number, allowing traceability to the mill of origin and establishing structural properties. Most 2×4 dimension lumber is visually graded and marked with an ink stamp at the mill, ensuring the product’s strength for the application.
Can you use a slab door for an exterior door?
A prehung door is a type of exterior door that is installed by a professional in order to secure the door to the wall or other structure. Typically, these doors are installed by a professional. Such doors are frequently utilized for both interior and exterior applications, and are often furnished with panels or are flat. Furthermore, they are more challenging to install and frequently cost more than slab doors.
Can a door be hung without a frame?
Yes, it is possible to install a door without a door frame, commonly using a slab door. This is a standalone unit without pre-hung doors, hinges, and frames. Openings for hinges and handles are required, and a separate door frame may be needed if one is not already in place. Despite the effort and attention to detail, installing a door without a door frame offers greater customization options for homeowners.
Can you install a door without a header?
The header board is a crucial component in the barn door system, providing stability and strength to the door, ensuring smooth and secure operation. It prevents the door from resting solely on the frame, preventing structural damage and compromising its functionality. The header board also serves as a mounting surface for the track, providing a secure and level base for the door, especially for heavier doors. This ensures smooth operation without strain on the track or door frame.
Using a header board in barn door installation enhances the door’s stability and durability, preventing sagging or warping. It also simplifies the installation process by providing a level and secure surface for attaching the track, eliminating the need for complicated adjustments or modifications to the door frame. This makes the installation process quicker and more efficient, saving time and effort.
Are patio doors load bearing?
In the event that a lintel is present, the frame should not be load-bearing. Nevertheless, in older residences, a lintel may be required, which your builder should inform you about at the time.
Does a patio door need a header?
To ensure a successful patio door installation, it is crucial to assess the existing conditions, including the level sill and header, and the level of the doorway. The header should not deflect more than one eighth of an inch for doors under 16 feet, and 1/16″ for doors wider than 16 feet. The doorway should be free from rot and decay, and level to ensure a secure fit. Common installation issues include improper header material, water infiltration, and inconsistent transitions from the doorway to finished floors. The type of sill used for the project, whether raised, flush, or low profile, also plays a crucial role in the transition from doorway to flooring.
Where is a header required?
It is essential to utilise headers when transporting construction loads above door and window openings, in order to transfer them to the wall framing situated at the sides. Additionally, the prescriptive tables for floor girders and beams delineate the span and bearing support requirements for headers.
Does every door have a header?
The code does not require a header unless the end of a floor joist, roof rafter, or truss lands on the wall or there is a concentrated load bearing over the opening. Structural jack studs are not needed as there is no load for them to bear. A header is also not required when a window or door is narrow enough to fit between studs on layout. When a window is less than 22 inches wide, 2x head and sill boards can be used to box out the rough opening. Right-size headers optimize lumber usage and are usually less material-intensive.
The International Residential Code (IRC) provides tables to determine the right-size header for the opening width and load it supports. The 2015 IRC consolidated this information into a single exterior-wall-header table, including similar tables for headers in interior walls and porches.
Does an exterior door need a header?
Exterior walls are load-bearing, requiring doubled studs on both sides of the door opening and a larger header than interior doors. Local building codes provide minimum header sizes based on rough opening size. Use a level to create guidelines for the rough opening, ensuring it is square, level, and plumb. Draw additional lines 1-1 ½” outside of these lines to account for drywall removal. Consider the space around the exterior door frame, stairway or stepping support needed, and the type of flooring on the interior.
If carpeting is used, add an appropriate amount to the doorjamb height to allow clearance between the carpet and door. Additionally, consider the type of stairway or stepping support needed for accessing the door from the exterior.
Do you need a header for a non-load-bearing door?
Load-bearing headers are not required in interior or exterior nonbearing walls. A single flat 2-inch by 4-inch member can be used as a header for openings up to 8 feet in width if the vertical distance to the parallel nailing surface is not more than 24 inches. No cripples or blocking are required above the header. Interior nonbearing walls can be constructed with 2-inch by 3-inch studs spaced 24 inches on center or 2-inch by 4-inch flat studs spaced at 16 inches on center. These walls must be capped with at least a single top plate and fireblocked according to Section R302. 11.
Can you buy an exterior door without the frame?
Replacing an exterior door without replacing the frame is possible, especially if the existing frame is in good condition but you still want to update or replace the door for aesthetic or functional reasons. This approach is beneficial as it allows you to maintain the authenticity and integrity of your home, especially in older buildings where the original frame complements the architectural style.
To install a new door without replacing the frame, assess the condition of your existing frame and ensure the new door is a perfect fit, considering factors like door size compatibility and the type of door (solid core vs. hollow core).
📹 How To Build Headers For Door And Window Opening
How to build headers for door and window openings is what this video is about. How to build a door opening will be in the near …
i only framed for about 9 months, but what my boss told me when i asked questions about headers, was that the rule of thumb, was that for every foot that your header ran, you transformed that measurement into inches per your header. so if i had a 3 foot wide window or less, then i used a 2X header, and if i had a ten foot opening, then i used 2X10’s for my headers, and if i went over 12 feet, then i would use an L:VL. he also told me that this rule was more used for cantileavers, but also applied to cut out openings, but wasnt absolute. i understood that as basic one story building methods, because obviously, at least to me, if you are building a 2 or 3/4 story house, then your headers become more important, and things like bla bla bla come into play. anyways though, ive always used this method that i was taught, to make my headers, and i pretty much always use the sandwich method myself, but im not a pro, im just a get er done side contractor, but i dont exceed my knowledge level, and ive gotten more work out of being honest about my skill limits than i have about pretending im an engineering guru, but anyways, i do want to ask if what i was taught is at a basic leve, a decent foundation to go off of?
Fantastic article. Would appreciate more coverage on the window sills though. Split Jacks vs Continuous Jacks vs Continuous Jacks with Cripple Studs. Why are Split Jacks not meeting code in some jurisdictions? Continuous Jack would force to use toenailing and does not look super reassuring, especially in situations with only one cripple… would love to see a article on that topic (and apologies if I miss one talking about that) thanks again for the great content, much appreciated
Ok, i make this harder than it has to be apparently. How does the header get fastened? The 2*6 commected to the king stud on each side? What about if the header is at the top and that 2*6 is connected to the top plate? Screwed in from the top through the double plate and then into the header? I can’t imagine a huge 8 inch screw from the bottom to fasten through the 2*6 and into the top plate….. Yeah, beginner here. Thanks in advance
the problem with the high header is that when framed that way, the 2x across the top of the opening doesn’t provide enough nailing surface for the next trade that comes after you. As a lath and plaster contractor, the 2x is so tight that it provides little nailing surface for the lather to attach the wire to. Remember the window flange is anywhere from 1.25 to 1.50 inches out from the window and covers most of the 2x’s face across the opening. this requires either blocking above the 2x across, or cranking up the nail gun and shooting through the window flange. When the header is low, there is ample space for nailing across. Framers frame to the drawings, but they need to be aware of what is going to be done all the way the interior/exterior finish. otherwise good article
I’m curious about the single ply header. One would logically think the single ply would be right down the middle, like an I-beam, allowing some insulation on each side. I would think that with the single ply just on one side, there is a weakness in the structure on the other side due to not being in balance. The load of the wall is down the middle, not the side, and I-beam construction, be it metal or a wooden I-joist, is “I” shaped for a reason. How is the strength of the header not impacted when moving the support from the center to the outside (or inside) edge?
Great article….. Question…I am installing a prehung double door that is 65 inches wide in a non load bearing wall in my basement. Can I use 2 flat 2x4s nailed together as a header or is the span too large? I want to avoid purchasing a sheet of 1/2″ plywood to make a sandwich header? Thank you for providing such informative content.
Great helpful website, learning alot! One question is for running electrical wires, or HVAC Plumbing & electrical or otherwise from attic down to 1 Level ceiling on a 2 level building! Can you cut 1″/1.5″/2″ diameter holes on both the double top plates/cap & top on exterior or interior walls framinged in? Will any of these cuts/holes made in any sizes mentioned above in any location throughout both of those two top plates hinder or disrupt the integrity to the strength of that wall?
i had a 100 year old house, where the beams, are a bunch of 1.5-ish inch lumber, nailed in two directions. there are three layers. outer layers go right to left. inner layer goes up and down. No glue, no construction adhesive. span is about 14 foot. Since it’s rough cut, it’s not pine, and not spruce. I’m thinking it’s not hemlock, but the siding was hemlock. Note, there is no plywood in the building originally.
Thanks for your articles. They’re very helpful. Now I’m wondering about combining the single header method and the top header method. Doing that it seems as if the upper header plate could be the wall’s top plate, with the single header below that and the lower header plate finishing up the header. Would that be workable? I like that it would eliminate one piece of wood, for both a cost savings and a heat transfer improvement. But would it work structurally?
AWESOME articles. I really love the models. In the articles showing engineered headers, they appear to have two Jack Studs on each side. Is this common for larger openings with bigger headers (and bigger loads)? Is there a rule of thumb, or would the engineer specify this condition? EDIT: Next time I’ll watch the entire article before asking a question. 😉
Your articles are very helpful. But I find that in most of the articles the education leans, towards a basic install. Carpenters need to know to fasten headers to top plates, how many nails to use, for what size lumber. To nail to king studs per code, nail size, number of nails. Most of all to be able to find the information in a techno world we live in. Your basic viewer doesn’t know that 3 nails go to 2X6s walls, 2 for 2X4 walls and so on. Even in the AF&PA Wall frame manual doesn’t give anyone the count. R602.7.1 is the same, so were can the audience get this type of information.
what type of loading will the one layer header carry? my husband spent 56 yrs. in architecture. he questions this for loading, the header has to require so much loading per lf. He has designed many headers for his architectural career and questions some of these modern technics of todays construction.. to design any header you have to know total loading per lf.. which is easy to do. with his 56 yrs. he questions some of this stuff.. He looked at some new houses being framed this way and notice some real deflection for a garage door header openings.
I would quibble with the illustration on 7:34-8:36 I’ve always called the two plates at the top the “double top plate”, the lower plate being the “First plate” and the second one being …….. “the Second plate”😉. I think that the way they are drawn might confuse students because the “Top plate” is under the Cap plate.
Do you have a article showing a opening for a door on an elevation vs subgrade? That is, crawl space vs basement foundations. (Up north is mostly basements, and in the south crawl spaces.) Also what differences if any between those rough openings with balloon framing? Great series btw. I’m currently doing remodelling again, and these technical details is where I’m having trouble.
The open layout header feels riskier (I’m an absolute beginner just sharing thoughts). For example if you placed weight on the weak side of that open header where the insulation is I feel like you could have some major screw ups. Imagine building on top of that header you wouldn’t likely know that an entire side is hollow and could put weight on it in a way that could compromise it. Also I’ve heard that the first thing a piece of dimensional lumber wants to do is turn when it has weight on it (example in standing joists). Would this tumble effect be more likely to happen on the “weak” insulation side of the open header layout?
Great article – I’m interested in learning more about the math behind determining the number and size of the header beams to support a certain span width. I assume the same header can support the same span regardless of if it’s dropped or raised and in contact with the top plate so is there another benefit for using the “modern” header placement of raising it to the top?
For the exterior openings, the framing member right at the top of the rough opening shall be designed for wind loads. While it’s not an issue with small openings, it’s can be a problem if this member is not sized properly for much wider opening especially when the real header is raised up against the double top plates.
Use wood glue. Clamp tightly, checking for squareness. Fasteners should be in vertical alignment. Forces act at the top and bottom of beams. This V pattern thing is folklore. For headers over 36 inches or so use bolts, or the equivalent modern structural screws (FastenMaster, GRK, etc). If nailing, hand hammer (not nail gun). The goal is to get the pieces to compose a single moment and you can come close with attention to detail. No fasteners within 2 inches of end (to avoid splitting in shear area). And do not assemble and store. Build as needed and fasten into place to avoid twist and warp. Yeah sure, over a 32-inch window in a single story house not a big deal. But for larger openings and/or multiple stories you really need a header to perform.
I have a question, but first, I was taught that not only does the 1/2″ plywood/OSB provide the extra thickness to make it 31/2″ the plywood sandwiched in between also acts for structural stability against downforce especially over longer spans. What is your suggestion for long spans such as 10′ or 12′ for material to use in between the 2X12s?
I’d like to make a box header out of 3/4″ plywood as I could leave 1/2″ in the middle for rigid insulation and then fill entire space from top of rough opening to top plate, eliminating short cripples. I’d have to stagger my breaks as plywood comes in 8′ lengths and the header above the garage is 8′ 6″. Don’t know if it would pass code or not. Be more expensive but would eliminate the bowing and seasonal movement of dimensional lumber.
I would like to save a couple thousands on not buying custom windows without loosing the size. This leaves me with a small header opening. A little more than a 2×4 can fit in the gap. It’s no load bearing on a gable end. Is there a way to get around having to use a 2×6 as header? Different material? Like a metal beam?