Mini split systems are a versatile and cost-effective solution for homes without windows, as they don’t require any external walls to be attached or vent. They can be installed anywhere, including rooftops, exterior walls, and even 100 feet from the indoor unit. While many mini splits are installed on exterior walls for easy access, they should allow ample clearance from landscaping and other obstructions.
Compared to traditional forced air AC systems, mini splits don’t require ducts and only need a small hole to connect the indoor and outdoor units. They offer several benefits over traditional HVAC options, such as ductless design, zoned climate control, high energy efficiency, and quiet operation. However, installing a condenser on an exterior wall or rooftop may be necessary in some cases.
Indoor units can also be mounted on interior walls of a house, but careful planning is necessary to avoid complications. The wall/fan component has multiple connections to the compressor components outside and a condensate drain line. The advantage is that there are no lines running down the outside of the garage wall, but the disadvantage is potential future repairs that may require access to the wall.
In conclusion, mini split systems offer several benefits over traditional HVAC options, including easy installation, zoned climate control, high energy efficiency, and quiet operation. However, it’s crucial to consider the location and potential risks when installing mini splits on interior walls.
📹 Mini Split – 3 Things I Wish I Knew Before Installing
Here are three things that don’t get brought up much when it comes to buying and installing a mini split. #minisplit #tosot …
Can a mini-split be mounted on the floor?
Floor mounted mini splits offer several benefits, including faster heating and cooling, easy maintenance, and zoned heating and cooling. The output is closer to the people in the room, providing quicker cooling. Floor mounted units also allow for easy maintenance, eliminating the need for ladder access for air filter changes or troubleshooting. Ductless technology is also included, with a condenser unit installed outside the home connected to one or multiple zones of indoor units that provide warmed or cooled air to the living space.
These indoor units can heat and cool independently of each other, making them a more efficient and cost-effective option for heating and cooling needs. Overall, floor mounted mini splits offer a more efficient and cost-effective solution for heating and cooling needs.
What is the disadvantage of mini split?
Mini-splits are a type of air conditioner that can be used in various residential, commercial, and institutional buildings. They have a cooling capacity of $1, 500 to $2, 000 per ton, which is 30 times more than central systems and may cost twice as much as window units. However, they have numerous applications, such as multifamily housing, retrofit add-ons to houses with non-ducted heating systems, and room additions and small apartments where central air-conditioning is not feasible.
Mini-splits have two main components: an outdoor compressor/condenser and an indoor air-handling unit. They are connected by a conduit, which houses the power cable, refrigerant tubing, suction tubing, and a condensate drain. The main advantages of mini-splits are their small size and flexibility for zoning and cooling individual rooms. They can have up to four indoor air handling units connected to one outdoor unit, depending on the building’s insulation and air sealing. Each zone has its own thermostat, saving energy and money.
Do mini splits devalue a house?
Mini split systems can significantly increase a home’s resale value by up to 5-10%. They are highly energy-efficient, reducing heating and cooling costs by 30-40%, making them attractive to buyers seeking long-term savings. They offer personalized comfort by controlling temperatures in individual rooms or zones, a feature many modern buyers prioritize. Mini-splits require no ductwork, simplifying installation and preserving the aesthetics of older or architecturally unique homes.
This combination of energy efficiency, cost savings, and enhanced comfort can make a home more competitive in the market and justify a higher asking price. Mini-splits are an excellent choice for new construction or replacing old AC units, as they save space by discarding bulky ducting and reduce utility bills.
Can split systems go on internal walls?
Split systems can be installed on walls that do not back onto the building’s exterior, but each situation is unique and requires a thorough assessment. Internal duct work is typically required for this. In Footscray, Melbourne, a second-floor apartment with a double brick wall was installed as a replacement for an old unit, demonstrating the versatility of this method. Each apartment’s specific needs and circumstances will determine the best approach for the installation.
Do mini splits require an exterior wall?
Mini-split systems can be installed on interior walls of a house, providing indoor units with controlled climate control. However, this installation is more complex and time-consuming than installing it on the exterior wall. Despite this, mini-split systems can be installed on interior walls in most circumstances, providing regulated climate control for each area at the homeowner’s convenience. The indoor units in a mini-split system can be mounted on the interior wall of the house, making it a versatile and efficient solution for controlling the temperature in different areas of the house.
Can you hide a mini split in the wall?
In order to install a ductless mini-split unit in a domestic setting, it is first necessary to create a space in the wall that is sufficiently large to accommodate the unit. This may be accomplished by cutting out drywall or constructing a false wall. As an alternative, a ceiling-mounted mini split can be installed, representing a more sophisticated option. We can assist you in identifying the optimal ductless mini-split system for your residential setting.
Where should you not install a mini split?
Mini split units are popular choices for heating and cooling comfort in homes and offices, but improper placement can undermine performance and efficiency. To avoid these pitfalls, it is essential to avoid locations with obstructed airflow, direct sun exposure, excess heat sources, unstable ground, improper height or space considerations, and improper height or space considerations. Mini split systems consist of an outdoor compressor/condenser and one or more slim, wall-mounted indoor units installed in the desired spaces.
They offer flexible “zone” climate control, high efficiency ratings up to 30 SEER, and quiet operation. Ductless design allows installation in spaces without existing ductwork, making them an ideal choice for those seeking efficient heating and cooling.
Why are mini splits mounted high on wall?
Mini-split systems are typically recommended to be mounted at an elevation of 6-7 feet above floor level for effective heating and cooling. However, improper placement can undermine performance and efficiency. To avoid this, it is essential to avoid locations with obstructed airflow, direct sun exposure, excess heat sources, unstable ground, improper height or space considerations, and a lack of proper height or space.
This guide will highlight key mistakes to avoid when positioning both outdoor and indoor mini split units, ensuring optimal performance and longevity of the system. Following these tips will ensure your system runs at peak operation for years to come.
Can you install Mr Cool mini split on interior wall?
In the event that installation is only feasible in the center of the room, the lines covering it will serve to enhance its aesthetic appeal. The second consideration is that of condensate management.
Where should a mini split be placed outside?
Mini split outdoor units are similar to outdoor condenser units for central air conditioning, but they should be placed on an even surface like a concrete or composite pad. They can be placed on rooftops or exterior walls with specially designed mounting hardware, and can be placed 100 feet or more from the indoor unit. The farther away the unit is, the more efficiency the system can lose. Ductless systems are commonly used for room additions, converted spaces, homes without ductwork, and as a supplement to an existing forced air system.
Where is the best place to put a mini split indoor unit?
To optimize performance and efficiency, install a mini split indoor unit on a vertical perimeter wall, away from heat sources, and for maximum air distribution. The outdoor unit should be on a solid, level base close to the indoor unit, allowing airflow into and out. Ductless mini split systems are cost-effective and energy-efficient for heating and cooling. A Carrier expert can assess your home and recommend the best system and accessories. Once installed, your dealer can provide preventative maintenance, tune-ups, and more. Find a Carrier expert to find the best locations for installing a mini split system.
📹 DIY Mini Split Install: 3 Regrets After 1 Year of Use
Now that it’s been a year since I installed my mini split, here are my three biggest regrets regarding the DIY Mini Split install …
Brilliant, brilliant article! Thank for saving me thousands and the diagram to show the wife to break down the process. I was curious why the hvac guy barely mentioned these units and tried to sell me a $8k ducked unit. 2 week wait, 2 hvac visits, 2 service charges, nights of draining the portable ac unit water bucket, and i finally found this.
You do know you can “borrow” the vacuum pump and gages from most auto parts stores. (You pay a deposit, use them, return them! Usually no charge.) Also, you can cut the long line set and get rid of the “coil” behind the unit. You need a flare tool or have an AC guy cut them before you vacuum the lines. Makes a cleaner install and looks better as well. Nice article, thanks for the wifi tip. Mine had an available option to add one inside the unit. Worth the $$.
My propane guy was doing a 10yr sniff check of my outdoor tank and informed me that a propane tank now must be located 10′ or more from anything that could spark including a light switch, AC unit (the contactor) or even a crawl space vent that’s not encapsulated. I’m just barely okay with my older 90’s construction. Thanks for you article, I just bought a 4 ton Mr cool precharged, can’t wait till it’s hooked up.
I researched ductless mini splits for months when I was looking at replacing my RUUD central air. If you have a smart electric meter on your home go look at your KWH usage for an entire year. You will see that your heat-pump was sucking electricity all winter as well as summer. We live in FL so winters are not bad but the heat-pump was still running up the electric bill in winter. My electric averaged $300 month all year. Long story short I installed an 18K ductless in the living room / kitchen area, a 12K in the master bedroom and a 9K in the guest bedroom, all separate units and all inverters. I did all the work myself for less than $3K. This is for a 1650 sq. ft. house and those 3 mini splits are cooling the house better than the central air ever did. The best part is we can turn off the units that we are not using. At night when we go to bed we turn off the 18K in the living room and close the bedroom door. My electric bill has gone down from $10 – $16 a day to $4 -$6 a day even in August. I cannot report on winter yet because we just installed them this summer. The smaller units are using about $22 a month in electric and the bigger 18K is using about $25 month. Ductless mini splits are the best thing I could have done to this house. My old RUUD R-22 system is turned off but I kept it in case we need it for an emergency back-up system. Something I learned: Ductless mini splits are subject to damage from surges and local utility outages so I put a “whole house” surge arrestor in my main panel to help protect them.
I installed a 18K Mr. Cool unit 2 years ago in my garage shop. I couldn’t be happier and now spend more time in the garage than in the house. Even when it’s 100 degrees outside, I can maintain low 70’s in the garage (***note: garage has insulated walls, ceiling, and doors). As for pros and cons……here are 3 I wish I knew before installing Pros: 1) Adding the unit actually made me much more productive. Not only can I spend more time in the woodshop, but also have the perfect place now for car repair or home repair projects. 2) The mini split unit uses very little electricity. I run it all the time, and my electric bill is maybe only 10-20% higher than normal. 3) The heating function is almost as nice as the cooling function. I had almost bought a unit that just cools to save some money. Glad I didn’t. In the winter when it’s 30 degrees outside, I am able to hold the shop at……you guessed it…..low 70’s. Cons: 1) The most difficult part of the whole installation was shaping the copper lineset against the wall and inside the lineset cover. I kinked mine and had to get it repaired. 2) The condensate line can be a bit of a nuisance if you have no place good to drain it. Having it constantly leak over a concrete slab leads to algae build up. 3) Unless you spend more money to get a multihead unit, the cooling and heating can be uneven if your shop has an odd shape. I have to run a small fan to get the air to equalize to the far side of the garage.
I have seven mini splits around our home. I live in Florida and I wanted to get rid of the duct work; God only knows what’s in there. There are some maintenance issues overtime. The condensation drain hose gets clogged overtime; I cleaned it out with a small portable shop vac used on suction and attach it to the water drain exit outside. A considerable amount of water will accumulate in a short period of time and my unit does not have an automatic cut off like larger units have for the air handler. I have my AC guy (I am not as handy as you are) come by once a year; he takes the inside unit apart and cleans the fan water trough,etc. The filter also needs to be cleaned at least once a month. Otherwise I really like the units and our electrical bill changed significantly. Thanks for the information about the Wi-Fi set up. Great article and thank you.
I put in two pioneer units in last year and just noticed yesterday that one wasn’t blowing air like it should so I shined a light and it was totally clogged with dust and mildew. I never thought to look at the blower drum because i wash the filters pretty regular, but keep an eye on that. After cleaning it, it made a huge difference.
I have two mini-splits now. The first was a Mr. Cool, but the second one is a Senville 9,000 BTU unit. I saved quite a bit over the Mr. Cool model, and was able to do a no-hassle self install, thanks to perusal your very thorough installation article! I even found a perfectly operating, professional-grade line-gauge set just lying in the middle of the street prior to buying the Senville unit. I was vacillating on whether or not to buy another Mr. Cool, but took the discovery of the line-gauge set as divine guidance to move forward with the self install.
I’d like a article on how to take out and clean the inner wheel/fan in the unit. This has to be cleaned every 2 years for proper air flow. I clean the curved 2 part pull out screen on top, but the inner spinning wheel gets really dirty and doesn’t allow air ro flow or the AC to run. I had a mini split installed in 2014 and wasn’t told about this and I had it cleaned in 2021 and it was disgusting. I watched it being removed, but do not remember how now. I had to hose off and brush the caked dust and grime off the wheel for a good ten minutes. I let it dry and put it back in. Of course I do not remember how to now. I have photos of the dirty long inner fan wheel. I used it for heat and AC in a 600sq ft 2 room 20×24 since installation. I supplemented with a woodstove and I’m sure that added to dust. I just tried the AC and it doesn’t cool. I only used as AC for 2 seasons 2022&23, not for heat. I used a propane heater. I would find it hard to believe it got as dirty as before.
I’ve been perusal and trying to learn for months about mini splits. I converted my double car garage into a Family Inhome Childcare and I was told I could not have vents installed because of how my home was built. I was introduced into mini splits. But a gal doesn’t know anything about them. Nor does my husband. But, this article gave me finally some understanding and Im ready to go forward. I will not let this process stop me. I did get discouraged because I dont know what to choose. And I dont want to waste my hsrd earned $. And trying to find an HVAC technician to install. Some don’t want to do it. So thank you for your article the explanation and the visual it helped me.
You are my kind of guy. You people help us educate ourselves and I appreciate your effort very much. Thank you for that. I also bought all tools and learned to do all the job. I even have nitrogen tank and brazing equipment. For comparison: My neighbour installed 12kW heat pump and it cost him around 13.000€. I bought two 7kW inverter air condition units, 850€ each, copper pipes for exchanger (around 450€), nitrogen cylinder with regulators and brazing torch (about 250€). I invested some time in researching how to do it and connected it to an existing 2000 liter buffer tank. So it cost me approximately 2.500€ for 14kW heat pump. That is some real saving. But that’s not all yet. Since I bought two split systems, I had two surplus internal units, since I only used the electronics from them. Then I got the idea… If I let water thru and start the fan, it should heat. So I installed one unit in my workshop and connected it to existing central heating. And it not only works, it works beyond my expectations. Also you can buy a “Smart Wi-fi remote control” for 10€ and control all your IR devices with it. This thing is so under-priced and useful, I can recommend it. I’m here to help if anyone is interested. Stay safe and warm. 💖
One other thing to consider is the warranty. I purchased a Senville 9000 btu mini split and it was $800 and I also purchased a 3rd gen Mr. Cool DIY version. The Senville is supposed to be installed by a license HVAC contractor but I purchased the vacuum pump to do it myself. By doing this it voided my warranty. Both of my mini splits failed and the Mr. Cool was the only one that was covered under warranty. If you don’t use the DIY version, I would also recommend that you redo the flare to ensure a proper seal.
Say about your Comment “you just can’t plug it into a 110v outlet” I am sorry to tell you that Confortotal (Spanish For Total Comfort) 12000 btu Plugs into any 110v outlet. The Head Unit powers the Outside Condenser, No need for HVAC guys or any Electricians. The cord is about 6 foot however you can buy a Longer one at any electrical shop and replace it to reach an outlet or get an extension cord. The Compressor is a Toshiba and has Gold Fins not Blue fins. It is not an inverter so it is either on or off (running or Not). The Seer is on the Low end but not the worst I think a 15. It does its Job Cools and Heats and it is $500
I think something else to keep in mind is the vacuum pump and gauges are the same equipment you need to work on your cars AC so it can be something worth having around. We did two mini-splits on our house this spring in Arizona and are loving them. I plan to install more after the summer for next year. Its so much nicer being able to cool the rooms we want to use vs the whole house when its this hot out.
It’s summer 2023, and the Tosot website says the unit is R410 Pre-Charged. Also, if you get a 110V unit (9000-12000 BTU), technically you can use a dedicated wall outlet. I’m saying this simply because I could not find a definite “NO!”. All it says is that it needs a dedicated circuit breaker, which a dedicated outlet has. I happen to have a dedicated 20A outlet for a central vacuum unit in my garage and I’m giving this a consideration.
You missed the biggest advantage of Mr. Cool: the warranty. Yes, they’re significantly more expensive, but they’re also the only units that provide a warranty on DIY installs. I debated going the “buy a vacuum pump and refrigerant and do it all” route but decided against it because I really wanted the warranty.
Slightly off topic but you mentioned making use of the 220 outlet. Rewire your table saw to 220 and make its life easier and extend its motors life. Pull the cover off where the wires go into the motor and there should be a diagram showing you what goes where. wire in an appropriate plug and your saw will have an easier job on heavy cuts.
Bout to be doing this myself. Building a 16×12 shop from scratch. Finished the subfloor today and starting framing my walls tomorrow. I’ve been a project manager for the last couple years so it’s not exactly fresh on my mind. Pretty sure it’ll all come back to me as I go. My wife is telling me just to do a window unit but like you said, the mini split is so much better and quiet and with a line set cover, it looks pretty too. I’ll check out your other articles so it’ll be fresh on my mind when I tackle that. Thanks for posting this brother I appreciate it
I did in fact buy a portable mini split at Costco in the US. It plugs into a regular 110 AC outlet, which powers the compressor, the cooling unit, and the control unit. The control unit and cooling are all in one enclosure and can sit on a stand or mount on a wall. The sheath goes outside via a window or door, contains power and refrigerant hoses. If needed, you could disconnect the condenser and run all through the wall. So they do exist and are easier to install than a window unit.
We had a mini split installed in our Master bedroom. At night we turned it on to our comfort sleep temp. While the rest of our home stayed the same night time set point. No muss, no fuss. Lower electricity bills overall. We calculated the maintainence and electricical savings to “go ahead” and get the mini split.
Mr. Cool is more popular in Texas because the lines are pre-charged and have quick connections . Any other type like yours would require a licensed HVAC with an EPA type 1 and 2 to be able to deal with the gases being released into the system even though it’s pre-charged as well.So for us at least it’s cheaper to do the Mr. Cool. Good article.
I was kinda hoping this follow up vid would cover the things done wrong in the DIY guide article. Stuff like the wrong circuit breaker size, coiling the lines horizontally instead of vertically, torquing the flare fittings, etc. Instead, it was an infommercial for the brand of mini split he installed. : /
I installed one recently and it’s the biggest quality of life upgrade I’ve ever made. I bought a cheap vacuum kit and a line flaring tool and cut my lines to length & made new flares, drew the vacuum and connected everything up – you can get it done in a day pretty easily. Probably just a few hours if you plan properly. Hardest part for me was finding the right place to put the condenser.
Very good article. There’s something else about buying those tools, you have them if you ever have to repair your unit or install another one. Mr. Cool is expensive and if it does have a leak down the road you’ll likely have to buy new lines. I just bought a mini myself and the tools to install it, I also bought the offset flanging tool and the NyLog blue sealant and the line covers. I have flanging tools but the off set does a better job and at the pressures of mini’s you want everything in your favor. I looked at the mounting brackets but my unit says it should be 12″ from the wall and I don’t think the commercial brackets do that so I’ll make my own. Thanks again, worthwhile article.
Instead of buying a vacuum setup, you can borrow one for FREE from O’Reilly Auto Parts just by leaving a refundable deposit. One big difference in Mr Cool’s favor is that it is 115v vs 230v for the one you suggested. That can have a significant effect on the electrical install cost, especially if you have an electrician come do the wiring like I did. He was able to use an existing vacant 20amp breaker, and since the condenser was within 4 feet of the panel no separate shut off panel needed.
Very good broad overview. Your articles always are helpful with this curious guy who wants to know how stuff works. Haha. One question I have is coolant. How to check for coolant level with that manifold system. I realize you are addressing a new system which shouldn’t need more coolant but I just had a portable air conditioner that didnt’ have enough. Do you have a article in detailing that? I assume that is where you would explain you have to have the EPA license to get said coolant. Thanks again for another great article! All the best from sweltering Texas!
I wouldn’t install a minisplit without a micron gauge and making sure the line holds a vacuum under 500microns for atleast 4hours. Those gauges aren’t accurate enough to do a proper job. A micron gauge is about $150 by itself. Torque wrenches are a definite help but not completely necessary along as your lines hold a 500micron vacuum you’re fine.
Just beware of a flooded floor. The minisplit will seem to stop clearing humidity in the room, hinting that condensation is not draining through a hose to the outside the way that it should. Moisture which doesn’t get through the drain hose builds up and begins cycling through the room until it finally stops draining at all and just floods the floor. Also, with time, it gets noisy. This is curable. Dust and debris settle in the drum fans inside the indoor part of the unit, causing turbulence, which causes noise. A bottle brush, for example, can reach in and scrape the inside of the drum fans clean. A vaccuum cleaner helps remove the loosened debris.
Other tips: 1. between 3 and 5 years you’re going to need a new motor. The motors become off center, wobble, and that wobble extends thru the squirrel cage. Buy the replacement motor when you buy the unit because the manufacturers are always discontinuing models. I’ve got 28 I take care of in a lodge. Also try to get buy or download a service manual when you buy the unit. Some mfg’s don’t make them available. If you buy a replacement motor where the model has been superceded, make sure the connector is the same. Often the wiring will be different or the connector is a little different. Also, the shaft length seems to change a lot so make sure if the shaft length is different that you can still use it. My replacements had a shorter shaft (still worked fine) as well as a connector that differed slightly(shaved a little plastic off with a knife and they worked). 2. clean the filter once a month. Clean the squirrel cage every 6 months unless your in a dusty area that also gets rain. The squirrel cage gets dusty then wet creating wobbles as the muck dries unevenly. 3. Be extra careful when removing the plastic parts. It’s always the kind of plastic that breaks before it gives. 4. Remember that they never stay as quiet as the day they are installed. I try to keep mine no higher that 42 decibels 3 feet away as long as there is no wobbling noise. Once a wobble noise starts, it will get louder. Often i can get a decibel reading in the mid 40’s with a wobble, and in that case the wobble wakes people up not the decibel level.
Great article! One thing you missed was the efficiency rating of the unit (HSPF for heating and SEER for cooling). The Tosot unit you got has an HSPF of 9 and a SEER of 20, decent but not amazing numbers. A $1500 Gree Saphire 9k BTU heat pump has insane ratings of 15 HSPF and 38 SEER. If used a fair amount it will quickly pay for itself in energy savings.
I just had a unit installed in my house. I had a friend install it (with my help, okay I wasn’t much help) and the important tip was the condensation line. We love it! With purged it with nitrogen, pressured it for leakes, and then vaccummed it. Put some step stones around the outside unit and filled it with small rocks. Put a bowl under it to catch the water and now wildlife has fresh water to drink.
I installed a cheap chinese made Gree 3KW mini split myself in our bedroom fourteen years ago. I did my own pipework and bought a vacuum pump and gauges to set it up. It came with a normal 220v plug we use in the UK so there was no extra wiring required although I did get the main electricity supply to the house upgraded professionally as I also installed a large induction cooker in the kitchen at the same time. It’s never gone wrong once in fourteen years and requires minimal maintence, only involving keeping it dust free. It’s definitely one of the best purchases I’ve ever made. The air conditioning is on all night most nights from the beginning of June until the end of September. It keeps the room at a comfortable temperature at all times and is quiet enough it doesn’t interfere with our sleep at all.
I installed mini splits in 2021 It was easy and I did the entire job myself and met code as well. They have been amazing and we got a rebate from our power co op that paid for half the price of the units Summer electric bill is almost exactly the same, winter heat bill is $150 a month less than running our pellet stove
FWIW, Mr. Cool has the same contractor install version for similar price. One thing to remember also with a pre-charged unit, you can’t shorten the lines if you have a closer installation the outdoor unit in the indoor unit. You have to figure out what to do with the extra line set coiled up inside or outside.
Hi, regarding legal requirements in other regions: In Greece, where I live, smaller units come with a plug, so you don’t need an electrician if there is a power outlet nearby. On the other hand, you need an F-Gas certification to work in refrigeration and air conditioning, systems charged with R407C, R410A or R32. That certification requires a refrigeration technician license. So you can’t DIY them, legally. Also, in order to have a warranty, most units require installation and regular service by a professional.
Watched your article about a week ago of your install and came across this on today noticed your license plate in the window and realized that this is something that for sure should work in my situation thanks for making these article’s. 1 thing that hasn’t been covered is maintenance compared to other brands and even central air as most people don’t realize you have to change filters once ( or you should ) a month. Haven’t heard about mini splits
Pre-charged linesets are for folks who have no idea what they’re doing. And pulling a successful vacuum on a closed system requires more than half an hour. The industry standard is less than 500 microns held for at least 15 minutes. You have to pull much lower than the 30 inches of vacuum referenced on a set of gauges. That’s another mistake folks make when they have no idea what they’re doing. These “DIY” systems, overwhelmingly, don’t last long due to improper installation practices and techniques. Whereas professionally installed systems, installed with quality practices, often last upwards of 30 years of efficient operation. If you wouldn’t DIY overhaul the engine in your vehicle, you shouldn’t DIY an HVAC installation. There is SOOOOO much more to it than connecting point A to point B. Also, minisplits in a shop environment tend to be a nuisance to clean due to dust and other material clogging the head coil.
I’m moving into a new place and the Family room has a mini split, I wanted to move it but found out that it was fairly expensive to have it moved so I ended up keeping it in place, I also didn’t realize how expensive the unit was to have initially installed. I did research to add the ability of wifi to the unit and found something similar to the Sensibo you listed. My current house is very smart equipped and most of that is coming with me to the new place, we used the mini split one time and it is amazing how quickly it cooled the room, so far I’m impressed with it for the same reasons you list.
Thanks for the article – good job. Quick question. I am building a sun room off of a patio. Where I plan to instal the mini split is currently an exterior wall (will be an inside wall) that has Hardy Board. Mounting the bracket will be slightly canted to follow the row of siding making the bottom of the bracket out more than the top…..will this be an issue? I know it’s good for the drainage issue but do the units need to be level from to back as well as side to side? Thanks.
2 minor corrections. 1 – the condenser doesn’t pull air – it compresses the gas used to make the cold and pumps that cold gas through the inside blower unit. 2 – you can use the 220 outlet – it can make 2 outlets and/or you can change the outlet connection type to most any other 220 style of outlet. Other than that, good article. I live in Central Americana and the mini splits are 99.5% of the ac units down here. They work great and are nice to not have to cool the entire house.
I’ve built cars, airplanes and done massive remodeling but the installation of my mini split took more than a month. It’s a lot of work and requires electrical skills, fabricating skills, assembling the covers and then u have a unit you cannot remove easily for repair. In contrast, the window unit is done in an hour & when it breaks, you take it out of the window/wall and into the shop for repair. My mini is 18k BTU which is twice the requirement for the room but the time it takes to cool the room from 81 to 74 is < 30 min. I see little purpose to wifi other than bragging that u can turn the AC on before you get home. No Big Deal. Another important consideration is service after the sale. Make sure the seller has a tech u can talk to during and long after the install. My unit reqd a vacuum pump and gauges but I had both. The seller wouldn't honor the warranty unless an HVAC tech did the work so I took the HVAC online course, passed the test, and that qualified me for the 5 year warranty.
Great well edited article! I installed a Mitsubishi 18000 btu unit in my new 1000 sq ft shop 10 years ago which was a great decision….Unlike the in floor radiant heat system which I never use! Lol I ran into a few issues I didn’t know about like the ac disconnect and the precharged line had a max lineset spec shorter than I required. I also wall mounted mine and despite using all the vibration dampening gaskets I did notice a deep thrum at first but have gotten used to it. Minor compared to other heating cooling options except the radiant floor option which is expensive to setup and very expensive to run and of course only heats…. Fantastic tips on the bluetooth setup and the diy lineset options…. Thanks!
A couple questions, do you need a receipt from a licensed A/C contractor for the final installation to get the warranty? Is there a way to install a box “pre-filter” around the air intake for better filtration than the little plastic filter that comes with the unit? ( I made one for my window unit out of quilters fluff that has helped in my shop) Thanks for the link to the inexpensive vacuum and accessory equipment!
3:30 that disconnect is not wired to code. Can’t use neutral as a phase leg, have to reidentify. Dropped wire gauge means your breaker and fuse if it’s a fused disconnect need to be the lower ampacity. The data plates on most of these units are confusing because the manuals say breaker should to be 1.5x peak amperage which for a 18K BTU is typically like 22A but specs a 30A max circuit protection. And you also need a flare kit (Harbor Freight or auto parts store) and a tube cutter so you can cut the lines to length and flare the ends. Whan you buy literally ANY of the DIY kits it weill say in the manual “All electrical connections must be made by a qualifed and licensed electrician”.- I don’t know if the seller or manufacturer will use that as an excuse to avoid a warranty claim by demanding a copy of the electrician’s invoice, so bear that in mind as a possibilty. Typically you are looking at $500-$800 for a new panel run with the associated wire, disconnect, and whip, vs. about $100-$150 if you DIY depending on how much wire you have to buy or if you can get 6′ of flex instead of a whole $40 roll.
He fails to mention you have to have a license to handle the coolants. Then there are multiple certification requirements. The classes cost roughly 800$ plus and the certifications cost 60$ up to 150$ each. Depending on the refrigerant type you may be required to have multiple certifications. I’m a certified HVACR technician.
I would gladly pay the extra for the pre-charged lines because you have to figure in what your time is worth . And just how much will you use the vacuum pump after you are finished and then you have to take up space storing it for how long ? Again, the quick disconnects go hand and hand with the pre-charged lines and the cost of refrigerant isn’t cheap either . Sorry but I am a plug and play kind of guy depending on the price difference and for me the little bit extra on a project like this just isn’t worth the extra work for me .I was aa mechanic that has done just about anything and everything especially HVAC for 321/2 years . Great set up though !
I’m learning that if you do an install yourself (on any other brand besides the Mr Cool DIY), then the warranty is void. So if there are problems later on, you have to deal with it yourself, or pay someone. Which means that any great warranty that any of the units come with (5-year, 7-year, 10-year – whatever) are null and void if you install it yourself. So, if/when there are issues later, and you need to pay someone to fix an issue you can’t or don’t want to deal with, is money really being saved up front? Thoughts?
I Bought a Cooper & Hunter 12000 btu, 19 seer on Amazon for $1079.00 ! 5 year warranty on the unit, 7 year on the compressor ! But here’s a additional perk I look at buying from Amazon . If you’ll log onto ” Smile Amazon ” instead of just ” Amazon “,,, 0.05 % of the purchase, goes to ” St. Jude ” Children Hospital” ! So I know it doesn’t sound like alot,,, But $21.00 of that purchase went to help a child with Cancer ! And even though that donation goes to them from ” Amazon ” instead of My yearly donation to them,,,,, who really cares as long as they get it to help a child !
1. You didnt say where you lived so most of what you said was useless. 2. There are 3 manufacturers in the entire world they are all Chinese, GREE..HAIER…MIDIA everything else is just stickers and injection molding to your liking. Each one of these manufacturers have good better best. This is why your Japanese units come in a box that says made in China. 3.SEER ratings mean nothing when you use them to dehumidify. High seer less dehumidification unless on dehumidifier mode. High SEER units are great for Arizona but dont mean to much in Florida. 4. Once you are in a latitude that requires more energy for heating than cooling you should go to a unit with a duel stage compressor. These units are more expensive but they all make them. 5. Just because they say the unit will operate down to -13 or whatever you must look at the performance charts to see how much heat they are producing at those temps. Most single stage units will barely produce 50% of the rated BTUs at 0 degrees. Most DUEL stage units will produce undiminished BTUs at zero although the COP at these temps drop considerably. 6. When doing your heat load you will calculate how many BTUs you need on a design day (coldest expect day in your area) Then you must look at the output of the unit you plan to buy for THAT DAY! This information is contained on the performance chart for each unit. 7. When the unit breaks and it will and it will happen when it is 90 degrees out good luck finding someone to fix it if they didnt sell it to you.
Central air is highly overrated and inefficient. Minis are the only way to go. I’ve installed a 12,000 btu 110 volt in my sunroom and the same in my dining/living room. If my central air ever lays down on me, I’m installing one more in my bedroom and I’m set. No more slave to the big HVAC companies and their maintenance contracts. I live in Florida so when I installed them, I made provisions for being able to simply plug them into a small 2200-watt fuel efficient generator during power outages from hurricanes. Everyone always wants these whole house generators not realizing that by day 2 they can’t find gas to run them anymore. If these are incorporated into new builds they can be installed very attractively. There are ways to dress them up for existing structures, so they look nice also.
You didn’t mention the difference between warranties. Some of that upfront cost is for the longer warranty with MrCool (7 Yr Replacement on Compressor + 5 Yr Parts) whereas the other brands you may only get 1yr if you install yourself. Have to use a licensed hvac contractor to get the full 5yr warranty, which we all know will add 800 – 1100 to the cost. I installed a Mrcool unit in 2017 and had leak on the lineset at the bend to go out the wall in late 2018. Lucky for me the unit I had bought from Homedepot was discontinued at that point, so Mrcool sent me a whole new unit. So there is a trade off.
A few years ago, an AC tech changed a household 120VAC circuit to a 220VAC circuit without seeing what else was on that 120VAC circuit. The homeowner ended up frying 3 Dishwashers before calling me to check it out. And did not install the local disconnects. Don’t go cheap cheap.. Just run new wire as needed and install the local disconnects. I do not know if he got sued or not, but sure could have been. A couple of things you did not mention: 1. Is that the condensate drain tubes will get clogged over time and you will have water streaming down inside, rotting out your walls and floors. That can get very expensive. 2. Is that your local thieves love to steal the outside units for scrap. That will also get expensive.
First off, I have to say I am not an electrician. But in my jobs, I have worked with electricity, and it was ALWAYS drummed into me to me that you never put jacketed wire in a conduit. Yes, if you over size your conduit it is legal but with what you had I think you should have taken the outside jacket off the wire and then put it in the conduit. If this subject has already been discussed I apologize ahead of time.
The higher SEER ratings may not be worth the money. For each SEER rating (aka 12 to 13, or 18 to 19) you save about 6% in energy. In a central city like Little Rock, Arkansas in the United States where you will need to both heat and cool, a 1200 square foot house will cost about 300 to 500 to heat and cool year round. In my case, it was 75% ($400) heating and 25% ($100) cooling.6% of $500 is $30. When I was searching units, the difference between a 18 SEER and 20 SEER unit was $450. (24K, 18 SEER for $1,300; 24K 20 SEER for $1,750. That is a $450 difference.) The more effcient unit cost 35% more. The break even period $450/$60 was 7.5 years. The Unit would have to last more than 7.5 years before it would begin to pay off. Now I generally believe these units can last a long time (10 to 15 years), but there is also a high risk of breaking something during install, or breaking before that time is up. If your unit is on the smaller side (12K instead of 24K) you are going to use half the energy and only have half the savings. These units are more effcient than central HVAC (generally SEER 12 or 14) so putting in a Minisplit with a SEER of 18 will save about 24% of the power. (18-14= 4, 4 times 6% equals 24%) (Yes, technically it is more complicated, but this math is close enough very simple and will get you close enough to make the right decision.) Please consider this basic math, then look at your historical energy usage, what portion of the house you are planning on heating (all in my case), insulation quality, (fair in my case), and prices of the units that you wish to install.
In our house (Central Europe) the outdoor and the indoor unit (2.5kW split) the have a single wire that is plugged into a grounded 220V socket. Installation was done by technicians (coolant tube, wire connections, vacuum etc) but the entire electrical hookup consisted of finding an extra socket and plug in. This, being an efficient unit, does not use more than 880W at any point though, maybe larger units would be hardwired here too.
By going the cheaper route and doing the vacuuming the lines yourself, don’t you end up voiding the manufacturers warrantee if you are not a licensed HVAC technician? I was thinking of doing the same thing, but with the Mr. Cool, you don’t have to worry about voiding the warrantee since the lines are pre-charged.
so glad I click on this article! I live in southern Louisiana and my central air went out 5 days ago! It’s been hitting 93 degrees each day and 80% humidity. I’m a teacher on break so I’m just living in my bedroom with a window unit. All Heating/Cooling businesses are backed up a month busy and I can’t afford to replace a full Central Air unit, anyway. But I MIGHT be able to do this with a little help and your articles! Guide me, Yoda!
The Mr. Cool unit you show puts out 12,000 BTU with just 115V input. You said yours is 12k BTU @ 230V. Not sure if the amp difference balances out actual power consumption, but I would guess the Mr. Cool machine to be a bit more efficient in the long run. Not to mention some DIY’ers have already maxed out their 240v slots in the breaker box.
Warning on DIY on a non pre-charged unit, the EPA has requirements for an exam and certification to handle refrigerants. See the EPA 608 certification for more info. Yes there is a charge for the course and exam. You need your EPA certificate to purchase the refrigerant. If you do a non DIY system as non DIY, you may need to hire a refrigeration tech to evacuate and charge the system for you to EPA standards. Violation of the standards has very expensive penalties.
Ok a few issue here. I am an hvac tech and a cheap skate as well. First is try to find tech support or parts if the unit you bought ever breaks it is probably non existant. Which will probably make your unit disposable. The Mr . cool unit will have atleast some parts availability and rudimentary tech support. 2nd is that if you use the factory flares on your lineset they are probably going to leak freon as they typically are garbage. Freon linesets also use special flaring tools not the standard ones since the angle and size are different from automotive flares. Also your system is probably slightly under charged as you cant buy freon unless you have an hvac license and the manufacturer generally doesnt include the installers charge for the lineset since they dont know the length of your final lineset run. Go look at your flare fittings and see if they have any oil on them yet. If they do your leaking freon and need to redo your fittings. The Mr. Cool unit has precharged lines which eliminate the charge issue but can themselves leak. Other people have commented on the effeciency differences so i wont bother. Just some info i thought I should share. Liked the article though. Hopefully it lasts you a long time.
There’s one additional thing that’s helpful when considering a mini split and it’s the energy rating. Here’s what it means, electric baseboard has an HSPF of 3.4 meaning that for each KWH of electricity used you will produce 3400 BTU’S for 1 hour. An efficient mini split can be over 14. Another way to understand this is for every dollar you spend to make 3400 BTU’S with electric baseboard it would cost .25 with a mini split. For cooling it uses a SEER rating. Many window and home split systems range from 10-14 SEER while the most efficient mini splits are well over 30 cutting your AC costs by more than 50%. The other benefit is being able to turn off or turn down an area while not being used, something you can’t do with a central system.
How is it slow to cool and heat? A 12,000 btu window will cool just as fast as a 12,000btu mini split. Will it be as efficient? No will it be as quite? No. I’ve installed a dozen mini splits and I love them but they are as fast as any a/C of the same size(besides portable A/C UNITS ad that’s because they exhaust air out of the room which pulls hot air in the cracks).
I wanted to bring up another thing about mini splits esp the heat… I run into quite a few people installing them in older homes and wishing for the heat pump function in winter on milder days t osay save them money on boiler heat or electric baseboard, etc.. the biggest complaint is the heat is up high and the feeties are cold.. minisplits blow out the heat up high.. and even though you can direct it low, the heat pump functions generally push out close to furnace heat temperature air (110-115 is typical).. this results in hot heads and cold feet.. something you are probably already use to if you live on a slab with ceiling register forced air heat… but not for those used to radiators or electric baseboard.. or basement forced gas heat.. I installed Ducted minisplits in my basement under the floor.. I have gas heat forced air ducted already but wanted the full zoning capabilities and hybrid heat.. so I built a rather elaborate system to integrate a sinbgle gas furnace and 3 fujitsu commercial ducted splits.. so there are options for those that want the benefits of minisplit but with floor vents.. otherwise this article is spot-on.. other than I suggest anyone who is installing flare fittings to add Nylog blue to their list of items to buy.. these flare fittings you tightened up on your unit require a specific torque on the wrenches.. over or under tightening can result in leaks.. a little dab of nylog blue makes this a bit more forgiving and still get a good seal.. I have fixed quite a few installs done by DIY that simply the freon lines were just honked down too tight.
Hey Bud great articles, I recently got inspired by you seeing how easy it is to install the mini split units. I went and purchased the Tosot 12K BTU 230V my question is 2 part 1) if I’m not mistaken it’s a 15amp am I correct cause I went and purchased a 2 pole 15amp circuit breaker and 2) I have some 14/2 romex left over from some other wiring jobs I did around house, or should I bite the bullet and just buy 12/2 in case I want to upgrade the unit. Again thanks.
Europeans: Meh… typical AC Americans: MINI SPLIT AC HYPE Aside from my joke, 16 years ago my parents bought a 24.000 BTU Mitsubishi Heavy Industries beast AC, it keeps running till this day( zero issues) with 100% efficiency, even my 10 years old no name OEM one works fine, I don’t know much about US HVAC’s but the “mini splits” are robust machines with capacitor issues after long working hours
AC disconnect is a half truth. Per NEC you must have disconnecting means within sight and readily accessible. So you can use a breaker, switch or even a cord and plug exception As per NEC 440.14 Exception 1. NEC 430.102 (A) in accordance to NEC 110.25 Exception 2. NEC 440.13. Per 2020 NEC the AC power source needs to be GFCI protected as well (Texas has exempted this requirement as of this writing and is still ongoing until State adoption) like all code within NEC local authority has FINAL SAY. CHECK YOUR LOCAL CODE.
Great article. I’m thinking of installing a mini split unit 12k BTU on my main master bedroom. The home is over 50 years old and that room is always hotter than the rest of the home, even worse, this is Phoenix and it gets to 118F at times… higher since its old construction. I found 2 units, both 12k BTUs. 1 is 230v and 2 is 115v. Both have WIFI, but the difference is 1 is 630 and 2 is 500. I’m still debating on either the minis of just add foam insulation to the exterior walls of the bedroom.
if I buy a “2 zone” (2 head) unit, can I only use 1 of the heads? I am not able to find a 1 zone / 1 head Bosch unit at either Lowes OR Home Depot that is 18k or 24k (1.5 ton or 2 ton). I have 1500 square feet total, but I only use the main floor of the house, which is probably 1100 square feet. I do not want to oversize or undersize my purchase. I am needing to buy it at one of the 2 major retailers for several reasons/advantages: 2 year no interest financing and being able to easily return the product, should the need arise. etc.
Okay, I’m pretty handy, built houses from start to finish incl elec & plumbing. And I’ve lived in China, home of the plug in mini-split. But you are telling me that the only difference between Mr cool and your brand is that I just need to pull vacuum on yours? No refrigerant? Where is that stored? In the condenser?
Yeah. As an installer you can never vacuum down properly with those cheap kits. You can’t prove and hold vacuum below 500 microns. You also don’t nitrogen pressure test. Really if you have installed the aircon and just want a hvac guy to test and vac down. It’s going to cost like $200 bucks AUD. Maybe $120USD. And you going to know it’s done properly and keep your warranty.
Hi! Thanks for the article!! I found a 12000 btu, 110 volt mini split that you just plug into a 110 outlet. The plug is on the air handler inside the house and their is a cable you run from tge air handler inside to the compressor outside. I’ve seen a lot of install articles on this unit. They are 500 bucks on ebay and Amazon. So far, I’ve only found good reviews. It pulls 9 amps. It’s made un Mexico, but Amazon has it labeled as made in China. Go figure. Still have to pull a vacuum on it, so have that additional cost. I plan on installing one soon. Thanks again, take care!
Considering replacing a 20+ YO small Heat Pump serving a small upstairs apartment presently with an attic mounted air handler and outside condenser. Two motivating factors: Updating system, and lowering power demand. Apartment has dedicated power service of 100A. I plan on converting that Main to a 60A sub from 200A Main in main living quarters and hope a small mini split will work satisfactorily on that Subpanel. Thoughts?.What is the Amp requirements for a small mini split? Thanks for your article,
I just replaced my old Sanyo mini split. It was a12,000 BTU I replaced it with a Hessaire that came with precharged lines and inside head unit. It is also a 18,000 BTU or as they called it 1.5 ton. It was a little tricky but the meaning pre charged means the lines and head are pre filled with a gas NOT FREON. This unit was also a DIY unit. Only thing is i am having trouble getting it hooked up to my WiFi and cannot find the serial number on it. I am awaiting to hear from Hessaire for more information on these subjects. The unit works GREAT so far and I also realised that before I put the lines on I could cut them to a shorter size and reflair the connecting lines. The unit seems to have had enough freon in it to take care of the lines. Heat and A/C work great so far. I paid less than $1,000 dollars for the unit. It is also VERY quiet compared to my other unit.
Here in South America, a quality Mini Split, 18Kto 24K run from $500 to $750, And we are talking Samsung cuallity, We do not need Heating, I made Bases plus wiring, Once everything is installed, call AC tech to do the tubing conections pluss meassuring Pressure and adding if needed. US $50. Trought out the years have owned about 10 units and they last about 10 yrs each, Absolutely recomend you geting one, One of the greatest advantages over Central units is you just cool one area or room,not the entire House
Can you discuss the various warranty options on the units you researched? And how about sizing for the space. Do the units have a table one can use to get the proper size / BTU? Lastly SEER for the respective units. Is that clearly shown on the manufacturer data? Thanks! I’ll be putting a unit in an apartment above my garage!
If you do this install make sure you find out if any of the AC companies in the area will service it. Most AC companies will not touch a unit they did not install. Also TOSOT’s customer service is pretty bad. I had to tear my unit out and throw it away because it would never come on. I had an electrician verify power but no activity from the indoor unit. TOSOT’s boiler plate answer was “get a professional to fix it” which they will not do with a unit they did not install. I sent TOSOT pics, voltages at each location etc. The unit had two dangling din plugs. They explained one of them went to a wifi unit they did not have and the second they never explained. No troubleshoot guide, no tech sheets… nothing. And DYI voids the warranty. NO REFUND. If you do a DYI you are 100% on your own when things go bad. Do NOT buy a TOSOT.
Pretty sketchy for buyers in the northern US or equivalent climates. That Mr. Cool unit only heats to a minimum 5 degs. F outside. The Tosot claims to still be providing heat at -13 degs. F. but offers no specification as to how much. If it’s only able to provide 10% of its rated capacity at that point, that’s not helpful. It’s important to know your application and equipment limits thoroughly before buying.
The true value in any product is 2 things. 1: Does it do what it’s supposed to? 2: How long does it last? Everything else is just shiney jewels designed to convince you to buy the product. A fancy unit with Alexa capabilities is useless if it doesn’t work in 5 years. I have a 13 year old Mitsubishi mini-split that has been bullet proof.
Although the pre charged Lines of Mr. Cool are great much of the reasons many mid grade mini splits are more money (Pioneer, Mr. Cool,…) you pay for support and warranty and most all of them will fight a warrenty claim unless you have a receipt from a pro install…oh yeah, and the marketing you pay for the markets. Also he i# wrong about electrical. Most companies have plug in 110v for 9k to 12k units.
Dude…stop saying “two twenty volt”. In North America, it’s two fourty volt nominal ± 5% (228 – 252 V). Merica! 😜😜 (For the nit-picky, motors are rated 230 V because they’re damaged by being underpowered, not overpowered. Light bulbs are rated for 250 V because they’re damaged by being overpowered, not underpowered.) Nice article, good info, thanks for the help. 👍👍 en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mains_electricity
I honestly didn’t believe a mini split would be any quieter than a window unit. I was wrong. Now mind you, it’s not totally quiet as in you won’t hear it. If I had to compare the noise, I’d say it’s more like the noise a regular stand fan makes on a medium speed. In other words, yeah, you know it’s on, but it’s not so loud it’s disrupting to anything you’re doing. This is only when you have it on high. At slow fan speeds, it’s really quiet. Another thing that was surprising was their ability to cool your home. We got an 18k unit for our living room kitchen and dining room (open concept), and it’s never struggled to keep the area nice and cool even on 100-degree plus days! We also noticed the air is dryer than it was with window units. The inside humidity was around 60%, and with the mini split, it was around 35 to 40 % humidity. We live in a high humidity part of the country, so having dry air inside is awesome! All in all we are really happy with ours. The biggest bonus was the cost! Local hvac contractors wanted around 7 grand to install one mini split! Now granted they had a 10 year warranty but only a 2 year on labor. We all know it’s the labor that cost the most. We could litterly install a new unit for what a couple of service calls would cost in case something went wrong! It’s just ridiculous what hvac companies are charging! It’s no surprise that hvac contractors hate on mini splits so much! Lol!
In Canada they want to cut your balls off and steal your money for God knows what sins. I have the evacuator pump and valves. So what is the problem, right? I can’t buy freon. I can’t buy air conditioning fittings. I can’t buy those types of fitting to retrofit a propane bottle for air conditioning. Plus the licences. Meaning big dollars for a hvac comany. I live in Alberta and my taxes, usage fees, are. I can’t sware in print due to the hate laws on any kind of attitudes found to offensive to anyone inclusive of migrants.
Hi.. I watched a few of your articles and find them very resourceful. 👍🏼 I have a question; l had purchased a mini-split system that l have received already and ready to install. I am quite handy and can handle the electrical without any problems as well as connections. However, l am installing the unit in my basement and are trying to come up with a way to drain the condensation “UP” without using an additional pump. Basically, the line(s) will have to go up a bit (only a few inches) then out to the condenser unit outside. I have to measure how low the ground is from where the unit will be hanging inside. Considering drilling a hole through the concrete foundation. Any suggestions??
ironic since i’ve spent just about all day reading reviews of mini-splits since my propane heater has started acting up but just a few comments here after perusal this article and the one where you installed the actual unit. even though you ran a line with a disconnect box to the unit, most of the 110/120v systems are able to plug into a regular 15/20 amp outlet. i will assume most people will overlook the fact in the installation manual (.pdf) suggests the unit be on it’s own circuit, which in the end, would be similar to what you’ve done here. so i would opt for a dedicated line with disconnect myself even though in theory, you wouldn’t need it for a 110v install. i will go for the vacuum pump/gauges because in the end, it’s not all that difficult. even using the kwik evac kit, do you really know if the line set is holding pressure? for any arguing the kwik-evac uses nitrogen, water will dissipate in a vacuum so it’s a wash there without being able to actually watch for pressure loss. as far as the old receptacle you were using for the heat-A/C unit… just convert it back to 110v and change the receptacle. 220v is two hots and a ground, just pull one hot off the breaker, label it as a neutral and put in the neutral buss bar and go back to a regular type of receptacle. if you wanted to get real tech savvy, put an ISO recept on it and use it for your computer so you don’t get interference/surges when running the shop equipment. Thanks for the articles.
Are parts available for this system? That seems to be the problem with these. Also, you mentioned the vac pump and gauge system. You didn’t mention what it takes to charge it. What is the availability of the refrigerant? How is a diy person going to do this if it isn’t available to the general public?
I have a 120 volt mini split that dose run off the wall powered outlet! My unit is only 9 amps at 1200 btu! I have a 15 amp circuit to power it. Have not had any problems, my indoor unit feeds power to the outside unit by a thick power cable the it was supplied with. I believe that is different from my setup then the setup on your unit. Just letting you know they have different types.
I just bought an all in one unit. For the reasons you stated I wish I had seen your article. Somebody should do a side by side to show how much quietet. The unit I have is not always that loud but it os always on. So the fan never stops running which is dumb. Don’t get me wrong it’s a good unit but if I knew you could acquire the kit for the installation. I would jave done jthat. For one thing I had to cut 27 in holes for exhaust. Nobody wants to do that in a wooden building. The rxtra eater proofing problems is considerable.
My first mini split was an LG and the inside fan was so noisy I couldn’t sleep with it on. I replaced it with a Mitsubishi, and the inside fan is so quiet I sometimes put my hand at the opening to check if is on. Both units have an intentional feature it dislike. In the AC mode the inside fan never turns off, even after reaching the desired temperature. The LG’s fan sounds like 400Hz military jet powered generator, which is big problem to me. The Mitsubishi actually doesn’t bother me if is on, because of how quite it is. I looked up the feature on their respective wed sites and both of the say the feature makes them more energy efficient, in that the fan isn’t wasting energy spinning up to speed.
Overall great article, but a little odd. Remember…the title is “3 things I wish I knew before I installed a mini-split.” Come on dude, you were going to install an AC system, but “wish you knew” that it had to be wired to the panel? And that you needed a disconnect? You knew these things already because a) I’m sure your home AC system gave you a clue, and b) because the meaning of “installed” versus “portable” is the fact that the item is “hard-wired” into the home’s electrical system. The same applies to “standby” versus “portable” generators. Also, you speak about the price difference between a Mr. Cool unit and the one you bought being about $500, then proceed to tell us your unit lacks about $259 worth of equipment to achieve the Mr. Cool standard features (not including taxes, shipping or travel time/gas to pick them up, and expertise to use the line pumping equipment). I would guess that most people would opt to skip the “parts wrangling” and pay the higher price. What other features are absent on your model? And you have not mentioned how the warranties compare. Still, the article overall is very informative.