In this video, Nathan Gilbert, an old house carpenter, helps a homeowner give her front door an upscale look with a low-maintenance material. Replacing window trim not only improves your home’s appearance but also insulates it from the rain and cold. To begin, cut through the caulking with a utility knife and work your knife’s blade under.
There’s an art to removing trim, whether you need to take off a few pieces of baseboard to install a built-in bookcase or remove all the trim in a room for a remodeling project. To do it properly, take a walk around your home and inspect your windows, doors, or anywhere else where there is wood trim. Look for cracks, holes, and damaged, loose, or rotting wood.
Replace a rotted section of trim or make an in-place epoxy repair. Although it may be tempting to rip out entire pieces of badly weathered or rotted exterior trim, repair is often a better option if the damage is minimal. Use a pry bar to carefully lever the damaged trim away from the house.
Pre-drill nail holes in the trim, drilling holes through the outside surface of the trim and a single hole at both ends of the trim. If you’re incapable of being careful enough, buy a quart/liter sized tank of pure acetone. Abatron WoodEpox, a liquid two-part epoxy, can be used to treat and patch the rot.
📹 Repair Trim Rot (Skirt Board and Corner Board)
6) Attach replacement trim piece with brads 7) Paint replacement trim pieces with exterior-grade paint. FYI: Wood rot like this is …
How to fix exterior moulding?
In the absence of a clogged gutter, there is no cause for concern. In the event of observed movement in the molding, the application of Liquid Nails into the fissure is recommended, followed by bracing until the glue has dried. In the absence of any observable movement, the gap may be filled with an exterior filler.
What is the difference between trim and fascia?
Trim and fascia are two important components in home construction, serving different purposes. Trim is decorative and used for covering joints and transitions between surfaces, while fascia is a functional component of the exterior roofing system. Both materials can be made from wood or vinyl, but their applications and locations differ significantly. Trim is used along most roof edges, while fascia is installed on the lower roofline and eaves.
It is important to understand the distinction between trim and fascia to ensure proper communication with contractors and professionals during home construction or renovation projects. Common materials for trim include wood, metal, and polyurethane, while fascia boards include wood, vinyl, and aluminum, each with varying durability and maintenance requirements.
How do you remove border trim?
To remove wallpaper borders from surfaces like painted walls or existing wallpaper, mix equal parts fabric softener and warm water in a spray bottle. Spray the solution onto the border and let it sit for 5-10 minutes. Use a scraper to remove the softened border. For painted walls, follow these steps:
- Clean the wall thoroughly with warm water.
- Apply fabric softener to the border and let it sit for 5-10 minutes.
How do you fill gaps in exterior trim?
The effectiveness of high-quality caulking on exterior surfaces is due to its ability to accommodate changes in weather conditions through movement and flexibility. In the event of a necessity for seamless repairs on wood, the replacement of the wood may be the optimal solution. Stucco can be effectively repaired with the appropriate materials, tools, and technical expertise. Interior wall nail holes can be filled with a shrink-free spackling compound, whereas wood trim holes are best filled with wood filler.
How do you remove an exterior window frame?
To clean a window frame, use a hacksaw or reciprocating saw to cut through the window will, pull the sill away from the rough framing, and remove the frame. Clean debris from the rough opening surface with a small brush or vacuum. Ensure that any mullion structure between windows is a structural supporting post or a window mullion. If it is, do not cut or remove it. Remove the wood, aluminum, or steel frame to expose the original window rough opening wall material. Inspect the opening for any problem areas, such as wood decay, water infiltration, or dry rot, and correct as necessary.
Remove the steel vent and fixed glass, clean debris from the frame surface with a small brush. If the interior trim needs to be removed, use a pry bar or putty knife to pull both pieces away at the same time. Lift the separate parts of the frame sill away from the rough opening, and saw through the frame sill using a hand saw or reciprocating saw. If there is a mullion structure not a structural supporting post, saw it through and remove it towards the outside.
Remove the wood frame from the rough opening. If there is a blind stop between the exterior cladding and the rough opening material, remove it using a chisel or similar tool. Clean debris from the rough opening surface with a small brush.
How do you remove glued trim?
The process entails the removal of the malleable, suitable material through the use of a plastic, spackle, or knife, thereby facilitating its removal.
How do you remove outer window trim?
To remove trim and underlying trim boards from older houses, use a pry bar and a wood block to avoid damaging the wall. Spray a thin layer of expanding foam into the gap and let it expand and harden for 20 minutes. Use adhesive-backed window flashing from a home improvement store and cut it to size, peeling off the backing to stick it in place. Start with the top and bottom edges, wedging them under the building’s boards and window siding.
How do you remove trim from a house?
In order to remove a molding, it is necessary to use a putty knife and a pry bar to loosen it, with the aid of a wood block as leverage. It is imperative to ensure that the base is fully detached from the wall without causing any damage to the baseboard or wall itself. It is advisable to verify that the scoring has been correctly executed. The separation of the base from the wall should then be achieved using a pry bar with a wood block, with the utmost care taken to avoid damaging the baseboard or wall. The use of a hammer with a tapping motion may be necessary to facilitate this process. This step may elucidate whether the base can be restored.
What is the purpose of exterior trim?
Exterior trim is a crucial component of a home’s exterior, providing protection from weather elements like rain, snow, wind, and sunlight. It helps prevent water damage by sealing off cracks or openings, preventing leakage and water damage. Trim also reduces the risk of wood rot, which can spread quickly and cause internal issues. If a problem occurs, the trim will be the first to show warning signs, allowing for early intervention and preventing further damage.
Additionally, exterior trim enhances curb appeal, with styles like Azek, James Hardie, and low-maintenance options like PVC trim. Regular maintenance can help prevent deterioration and ensure a well-maintained home.
What is the trim on the outside of a house called?
Fascia and trim are exterior elements of a home that contribute to moisture prevention and curb appeal. Fascia is a board installed at the edge of the overhang, while trim is loosely defined as trim. Gutters are typically attached to fascia, which are crucial for directing water away from the home and managing runoff water from the roof. Both trim and fascia are essential for maintaining durability and resisting moisture infiltrating the home’s structure. Soffit, trim, fascia, roof, and siding are all key exterior elements representing a home’s first line of defense, making them susceptible to damage.
How to fix exterior house trim?
To restore trim to its original condition, make quick repairs to the wood without rotting, warping, or other damage. If a piece of trim is loose, use a hammer and nails to reseal it to the wall. Fill cracks between the trim and the wall with silicone caulk, remove old caulk, paint, and debris, and go over the crack with a wire brush to remove remaining debris.
Apply caulk only when the temperature is between 50 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit, and avoid applying it during rain or snow. Cut the caulk tube at a 45-degree angle and place it in a caulking gun. Hold the gun parallel to the joint being filled, position the nozzle opening to force sealant onto the surfaces, and smooth the applied bead of caulk to ensure proper sealing. Use a latex-gloved finger or foam paintbrush to smooth the caulk. Keep rags handy to clean up any mishaps and problem areas immediately, and consult the manufacturer’s instructions for curing times.
📹 How to Repair Exterior Rotted Trim: THE ULTIMATE SOLUTION | Mr. Happy House
Is your exterior trim rotted or in bad condition? This is very common if your exterior trim is made of wood. In this video, we go over …
I have made similar repairs to my trim when the rot was in a location where I didn’t want to replace the entire trim board. In order to ensure a straight edge when cutting with the multi-tool, I screw in a piece of scrap wood along my pencil line to use as a guide for the blade. I screw it in using 2 screws making sure not to penetrate into the sheathing. Make sure to screw it in to the side of the wood you are removing. After you make your cut and pry off the “bad” section of trim, the screwed in guide comes with it leaving a perfectly straight cut.
The building paper should have been replaced as well with a vapor permeable membrane correctly tiled into the existing building paper. The other and most important reason to back putting is to allow both faces of the board to aquire and dry out moisture at the same rate which prevents cupping curling and reduces face checking
A licensed contractor replaced trim like in this article. However, the replacement trim piece was painted before install and then the gap and screw heads caulked after. They did not sand the joint or paint again after to try and hide the seam. In the contract it states they would install and paint the trim but it doesn’t mention about blending and painting the seams. I kind of expected it to be blended as best as possible. What is the standard?
You mentioned using a paint plus primer. Im very doubtful of this product. I use a primer made bu Glidden called gripper. I have used it on a boat deck, left in the Florida sun and salt air for over a year before health and other factors allowed me to finish. There was no deterioration, none, zero. It will soak in, seal and repel water. Drys in about 20 min. Forget Kills. 2 coats even look like a pretty good topcoat.
Without being a professional construction worker, I would have preferred to see the whole boards replaced, and what’s underneath inspected, washed and coated somehow. Is the house wrap adequate, broken, is there mold/rot underneath? Is the junction with the foundation leaking/wicking from the concrete into the wood? I understand working within the client’s limitations, so I guess I’m more concerned about the client than your work.
We have cedar lap and gap (tongue and groove) siding and have been sealing the horizontal joints with Masterseal np1 caulk sealant. I have read in numerous places to not caulk between horizontal siding, because it needs to drain any water which could possibly get behind it and it has to move with expansion and contraction of the boards. The transition between the slab and skirt board have also allowed these small cridders into our house. The siding was installed correctly, but over the course of 30 plus years the boards have some gaps between the joints. Friends and family members who are carpenters have informed me as long as you keep the siding sealed and treated there shouldn’t be a problem with water getting behind the siding and to seal these horizontal joints. By these boards not being sealed we have introduced carpenter ants, scorpions and other cridders. Does anyone have a suggestion please? Thanks
I was a Builder back in the 80’s and 90’s .. even back then there were non-wood alternatives which I used. Unless you’re living in the Sahara desert all your wood will eventually rot. My current Florida home has zero wood exposed to the exterior. Masonite is insane to put the outside, we knew it then… My neighbors are just now starting to replace soffits, exterior door trim, or you naming it, any wood on the outside just after a decade.
Why would anyone use MDF trim on the outside of a house?? That stuff sucks up water like a sponge. My home is all Hardie Plank siding and trim. The only wood I have outside is the heart redwood tounge and groove soffit under the prow eaves, and side overhangs. It is not exposed to the weather, and is still in great shape after 20 years. Good that you are sealing up all six sides of your repair pieces. Most don’t take the time to do that, especially when replacing T11 siding.
I got your hints on replacing these type of timbers. Another hint you have without trying to is I have a saw like you used to cut the board and I loved how you used the saw to cut first track as guide, then you cut board deeper to allow sawdust escape then cut gradually into the timber until full cut complete. I was using my saw wrong all along being too impatient by expecting and trying to cut fully into each part as I moved along the wood. I must try your style tomorrow on small non important jobs for practice on wood before thinking of trying decent jobs that can be noticeable. Thanks I would love to see you do a article in the future on using these saws they are really great asset
Question: you use brads to nail the board up. I’m assuming we’re talking 18ga here. Everywhere else I’ve looked on the internet swears that brad (and finish) nailers can’t possibly work for exterior applications. I have about a dozen spots on my house that need repair due to rot (siding and trim). I have a brad nailer, if I get don’t own a siding nailer, and I’d rather not drop $200 and another $50 for 3000 nails if I don’t have to. Can I use a brad nailer to do this? Do I not really need a full round head coil nail like the Internet swears I do??
Your craftmanship and teaching abilities are awesome! Your nail choice is ok but I would go with a longer nail and bigger head, brad nailers should only be used for decorative pieces on the exterior trim, not shear panels. Your wood choice is a problem. Cedar and smart panel would of been a better longer lasting option. Pine is a poor choice for rot and bug resistance and treated wood often sweats chemicals which stains and warps after installation due to curing. I wouldn’t of patched the vertical piece but replace the entire thing so it didn’t always look like a scabbed piece and I would of replaced the part behind the gutter because it was showing signs of rot also (better patch candidate). Have a great day!