This guide provides a step-by-step guide on how to repair printed circuit boards (PCBs), focusing on understanding components, identifying issues, mastering soldering techniques, and ensuring optimal functionality. The guide outlines the causes behind PCB failures and the necessary tools and equipment for successful repair.
To repair a cracked or broken PCB, first inspect the board for visible damage or defects using a magnifying glass or microscope. Many small board repairs can be done with a methodical approach using basic tools such as digital multimeters (DMMs) and oscilloscopes to measure voltages.
Next, gather the necessary tools and materials, remove the damaged pad or component, clean the track and remove solder, place copper tape over the exposed track, and solder the board. Tidy up the damaged track, expose the track, and stick copper tape over the exposed track. If the IC is still functional, a 2-part epoxy can be used to strengthen it.
To avoid failures, prepare a clean and well-organized workspace free from dust, moisture, and static. Follow these steps: safely remove components, clean the board, replace faulty components, and repair damaged traces or pads.
In summary, this guide offers a step-by-step guide on how to repair PCBs, providing essential information on the causes of failures, tools and equipment needed, and tips for successful repair. By following these steps, readers can ensure optimal functionality and prevent future failures in the electronics industry.
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How do you fix a bad circuit board?
In order to repair circuit boards, it is first necessary to gather the requisite tools and materials. The damaged pads or components must then be removed, the track cleaned, the solder removed, copper tape placed over the track, the joints soldered, the through-hole on the PCB restored, the components placed and soldered, and any excess tape trimmed.
How to repair circuit board without solder?
Two-part conductive epoxy is a popular solution for creating solderless electronic connections, as it forms a strong, highly conductive bond when cured. Chemtronics offers two options: CircuitWorks® Conductive Epoxy, which cures in 10 minutes, and CircuitWorks® 60 Minute Conductive Epoxy, which provides more time for work. Both epoxyes have A and B components that need to be mixed before curing. The best method of removing a coating depends on the type of coating and the sensitivity of the components.
Is it safe to hot glue PCB?
In the electronics industry, it is crucial to choose an adhesive that can withstand vibration, such as hot glue, to secure delicate wiring to a motherboard or other fragile circuit boards. This process, also known as potting or overmolding, ensures the quality and health of the electronics. After using a hot melt adhesive, many manufacturers use neutral cure silicon rubber to create a long-term bond. This bond is intended to last decades when applied correctly.
The electronics industry requires more automated solutions for consistent application, such as industrial glue machines like hot glue guns. These tools offer quick work and precise application, reducing the risk of damage to sensitive equipment. In summary, selecting the right adhesive for electronics is essential for maintaining the quality and longevity of the components.
Can you repair a damaged circuit board?
Repairing or remanufacturing boards can restore them to their original function or be used in a different device as a form of recycling. However, engineers must first understand why the board failed. It is crucial to identify common problems associated with printed circuit boards (PCBs) to know what went wrong and fix the issue. This article will explore common printed circuit board problems and their solutions.
By understanding the reasons behind failure, engineers can better address the issue and ensure the device’s functionality. Understanding the most common problems associated with PCBs can help identify potential solutions and prevent future failures.
How to glue a broken PCB?
PCB crack repair involves scraping back the coating on the board, soldering the lines, and testing the board. If the board is more than a 2-sided, it may not be possible to repair it unless there is a layout of internal traces. If the board is broken, it is possible to reassemble it and hope that only ground and power planes are shorted. To prevent the crack from propagating, drill the end of the crack and mechanically fix the board by scuffing areas without traces across the crack and epoxying scrap pieces of PCB material across the crack. Use good epoxy from a name brand in your area, such as Devcon, Gorilla, or Bob Smith Industries.
Will super glue damage a circuit board?
Cyanoacrylate glue, also known as Super Glue, is harmful for electronic products due to its corrosive chemicals that can off-gas and leave a thin white haze on plastics and PCBs. It is best to avoid using it unless you are well-versed in the process. While there are times when glue is necessary, it should be designed into the product from the beginning. However, if necessary, it can be a reasonable consideration if the process is top-quality.
What can I use instead of solder on a circuit board?
While wire connectors, such as twist-on wire nuts or push-in connectors, offer a rapid and straightforward method for joining wires, they may become loose over time, potentially leading to electrical hazards. In contrast, crimping entails the use of a specialized tool to compress wires, thereby facilitating a more secure and efficient connection.
What kind of glue can I use on a circuit board?
PCB glue is an adhesive used to attach electronic components to a printed circuit board (PCB). It enhances mechanical strength, moisture resistance, thermal conductivity, electrical insulation, streamlined production, vibration resistance, and performance and reliability. Common types of PCB adhesive include non-conductive adhesives like epoxy, cyanoacrylate, or RTV silicone, which are ideal for securing components.
Thermally conductive glues are used to secure heat sinks to electronic components by providing an effective heat-directing path, preventing damage caused by excessive heat. They can be mixed with electrically conductive or insulating powders to increase their thickness and enhance thermal conductivity.
Conductive PCB adhesive is a specialized glue designed to conduct electricity, essential for applications like attaching surface-mount gadgets and integrated circuits where electrical conductivity is required. There are two types of conductive adhesives: anisotropic sealants, which conduct electricity in all directions, and isotropic adhesives, which conduct only in one direction. Other types of PCB glues include polyimides, silicone resins, and cyanoacrylates.
Polyimides are used in high-technology applications due to their ability to withstand temperatures up to 300ºC. Silicone resins are often used as encapsulants in conformal coatings, withstanding temperatures from –60ºC to +200ºC. Cyanoacrylates are single-part glues that dry quickly but work best when paired with activators for faster drying.
In summary, PCB glue is a crucial component in the assembly of PCBs, providing mechanical strength, moisture resistance, thermal conductivity, insulation, and performance. Different types of adhesives are available for different applications, including surface mount components bonding, wire tacking, potting and encapsulating electronic components, and conformal coatings.
Glue is a crucial component in PCBs, as it secures components, improves moisture resistance, enhances thermal conductivity, provides electrical insulation, simplifies production, and increases vibration resistance. It enhances mechanical strength, moisture resistance, thermal conductivity, and reduces the risk of looseness or detachment. Some PCB glues are moisture-resistant, creating water-resistant barriers that protect the PCB from corrosion and short-circuiting.
Electrical insulation is another benefit of PCB glue, as it can double up as a dielectric material, separating electrically conductive components to prevent short-circuiting or ground faults. Streamlining production by eliminating the need for clips, screws, or other fasteners during assembly and eliminating the need to solder some components makes the process cheaper and more efficient.
Automated hot melt glue application during PCB production can increase vibration resistance, as it holds and secures components to the PCB, preventing damage related to vibrations when the board is in use. This makes PCBs in industrial and automotive applications more reliable and durable.
Typical applications of PCB glue include surface mount component bonding, wire tacking, and potting to protect components from damage. It’s also key in conformal coatings, shielding boards from moisture, corrosion, and temperature changes. Common adhesives include epoxies, silicones, and polyurethanes.
When attaching surface mount devices (SMDs), the primary step is placing them on beads of uncured adhesive and curing the glue via ultraviolet radiation or heating. Surface mount adhesives have two essential uses: acting as a processing aid, enhancing stress relief to solder attachments, and having an extended shelf life.
During the tacking process, a wide range of glues can be used, including cyanoacrylates, epoxy glue, light-curing adhesives, and acrylics. The most common bonds for PCB during potting include epoxies, silicons, acryls, and polyurethane.
Conformal coatings are not exclusively due to the adhesive bonding process, but adhesive resins are still relevant in enabling conformal coating. Epoxy is the best glue for circuit boards due to its versatility, while UV-curing acrylics are effective for attaching surface-mount devices. Silicone is ideal for conformal coatings and encapsulating components, while cyanoacrylates work well for reinforcing wire connections.
Choosing the right glue depends on factors like environmental exposure, temperature sensitivity, and component weight.
Is there a glue you can use instead of solder?
Lead soldering, a widely used technique for making electrical connections and packaging electronic components, is being replaced by lead-free alternatives due to its toxicity and environmental impact. The European Union’s Restriction of Hazardous Substances Directive (RoHS) prohibits the use of lead in consumer electronics. Electrically conductive epoxies are ideal alternatives for lead soldering, as they can reduce the mechanical strength of joints and prevent outgassing.
Master Bond offers one and two component, RoHS compliant electrically conductive systems for use in the electronic industry. These systems include isotropic conductive adhesive (ICA), two component silver filled epoxy systems, and single component no-mix snap cure adhesives. These non-drip, high viscosity thixotropic paste materials can be used on non-solderable surfaces like glass and plastics, and can be dispensed on thermally sensitive substrates without damaging components. These systems offer a safer alternative to lead soldering and are suitable for various applications in the electronic industry.
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you have to be careful testing a transformer, when the probes are on the primary on resistance you have voltage running through the primary. when you remove the probes you create a pulse which will energize the secondary. I did this checking a neon light transformer and got quite a shock from the secondary.
i have a branded dc power supply for computer CPU, one day it just pop and blown something. when i dismantle it, i found a IC chip that is surrounded by black burnt marks nearby. the IC is broken and cannot identify the part number. i try to google the pcb, but i can’t found it.. how on earth can i find out what’s that chip?
I made my first board using a Radio Shack CB Etching kit when I was 13, cira 1973. You just skipped over the hardest part, accurately drilling all those tiny holes! I didn’t have a drimmel kit back then so I had to do it with a big 5 pound electric drill. P.S. Don’t spill ANY etching solution on your mom’s formica countertops! 🙁
If you print the laser toner onto either glossy magazine paper (cheap thin glossy ad magazines work great), or onto glossy inkjet paper, getting it to adhere to the metal is much less time sensitive, you can leave it for days no problem before laminating if you wish, and it comes off from the paper much more easily once you soak it in water. I’ve done this quite a few times etching plaques and they come out perfectly. Printing directly on copy paper is a bit of a hit and miss though, and the structure of the paper can impart in the toner and make it not stick as well to the metal. I have a article on this very process as well.
Hey Mr Carlson! I am a certified MESA/Boogie and Fender amp technician and I ALWAYS learn something from your articles. You do such a nice job teaching, your articles are always clear, non-threatening for ‘younger techs’ and most importantly you do absolute quality/attractive work and always with a positive attitude. I can’t tell you how much of a breath of fresh air your articles are in a world of negativity. Cheers from Michigan
Watching you complete these PCB’s reminds me of the company I used to work for. The bottleneck was ordering and receiving the boards in a timely fashion. It got so bad that they decided to buy a close by PCB manufacturer. The process was the same only on a much bigger scale. Positives were produced in the photographer’s dept. and ‘shot’ on the raw boards, developed and plated in rather large tanks hung in the solutions and then processed. A design change could be turned around in a couple of days instead of a couple weeks. Big difference. A simple change could scrap a whole trashcan full of old boards. Typical government expenses and over runs, plenty of over runs. Good job Paul!
I use Kicad. (freeware, easy to use and an extensive library of components and footprints) You start from your circuit diagram and from there you create the PCB layout. You can have a rule check performed on both your schematic and your PCB. You even get a 3D view. You export the Kicad file and send it to the PCB manufacturer. A few days later you will receive a professionally made PCB in your mailbox. (with silk screen, corrosion protection, drilled holes, …) Easy, simple and no polluting chemicals at home.
Normally not picky about pronunciation, but the difference between silicon and silicone is very important. One is a semiconducting element, the other is the complex polymer PDMS, or polydimethylsiloxane typically. Silicon valley is in Northern California, and Silicone valley is in Southern California, with a branch in Las Vegas.
Did you remember to paste a copy of the NEW schematic inside the top of the lid for a potential far future owner to have half a chance of repairing it again? Hmmmmm? Who else was picturing a particular Dan Akroyd sketch about a chef from oh so long ago? (I’m not trying to offend, it was a very amusing memory, and I truly adore Mr. C’s pursuit of perfection.)
I’d just like to know, are you a professor or anything? How did you get started with electronics? I’ve been doing some projects recently and I’m really enjoying it but I don’t quite understand everything. Any recommendations on a good place to start? I have a few uhm… borrowed ebooks and I know there’s no shortcuts… but what did your path look like?
this reminds me my dad in 80s sitting on chair in front of bench and making diy transistor based radio receiver, because in my country under russian occupation these things were incredible expensive to buy them from shop. this is a way when people used to make diy c boards at home. after dad finished making board was time for soldering. unforgetable smell of hard flux, i dont know why but i loved that smell ;p btw beautiful c board;p
Excellent article as usual Mr Carlson. I have made a few double sided PCB,s and did the allignment a little bit like you but using pins to help align the pads. In both printouts I carefully pushed a pin through each of the mounting holes on top of a piece of polystyrene foam. Next I pin the two layers together onto the foam then tape them as you did. Many years ago (over 35 to be exact) I was given a bottle of a solution that put a SILVER coating onto the copper. I believe it was call SILVER CYANIDE. Pretty dangerous stuff to work with. Had to use it outdoors. Where can I get LIQUID TIN and NEVER DULL in Australia? Also I use AMMONIUM PERSULPHATE to do my etching. It needs to be hot to work best. I mix it with boiling water. I sit the dish inside another dish with boiling water then I can replace the hot water without making up a new batch of etchent. The amonium persulphate can be used for a couple of times before disposal. The main advantage is it does not stain. but it did bleach my favorite black tee shirt to a horrible brown splotch. The through holes I do the same way as Mr Carlson.
Nice article Mr C. I never thought of raising the board in the solution like that. I make only single side boards from time to time. While double side would be cool, I never thought of doing it that way. I just used jumper wires across the top. Thanks you for the Tips. I use the muriatic acid (I use it to clean my drains) and peroxide method while heating the solution in a pan of hot water as well. Never occurred to me to use a glass pan like that… Nice! I use a old tupperware bowl… Thank you for the article! LLAP