Laying bullnosed bricks under an exterior threshold is a skillful and meticulous task that adds elegance to your doorstep and ensures a smooth transition from the exterior to the interior. This technique requires careful planning and attention to detail, as it not only adds a touch of elegance but also ensures a smooth transition from the exterior to the interior.
To raise a threshold with concrete, follow these steps:
Remove the toekick (exterior board below the threshold) and probe the wood underneath for signs of decay. Replace any rotten wood and spray it with a borate solution like Bora-Care to prevent rot and repel.
Install step treads at Armstone in the standard size of 1210 x 320 x 30mm with a Bullnose Edge. Most step treads are available in the standard size of 1210 x 320 x 30mm, with a Bullnose Edge.
Lay 1000 bricks using 3 bags cement + 0.6m³ sand. To plaster 100 bricks, use 3 bags cement + 0.6m³ sand.
Remove the threshold from the way and ensure there are no fasteners going through the threshold down into the floor. The bricks must be laid in a minimum of two courses with the bond broken and in a strong mortar mix 1:5 or even 1:4.
The steps to the landing should be 12″ deep (bullnose brick) and 8″ high, as a recent contractor did on a similar project.
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Pro tip: when you take the sticker off use the sticker itself to stick back on the residue and pull it back up. Normally if you dab the sticker’s sticky side on the residue and pull it off repeatedly it will take all the residue off whatever the sticker was originally on. Obviously doesn’t work for all sticker glue on all materials but it’s easy and worth a shot when it happens.
Not having a good blade….. You know, if you lived next to me back in the late 90s when I worked at SystiMatic I would have been dropping off blem blades for you all the time. My neighbor called me “the saw fairy” as I’d just drop off a few blades for him whenever. Couldn’t get you a dado set though, those things were NEVER blemished enough to not get sold. Honestly, why we didn’t turn out dado sets like crazy is beyond me – the demand was astronomical, as so was the markup.
I did this to my front door also but i put in larger stainless screws then caulked over them of course the caulk got dirty over time and the pvc got black scuff marks from shoes on it so not sure if i should try the pvc plugs over screws to make it cleaner or just sand caulk and put new AMP caulk since that seems to attract less dirt.
I’ve been searching for exactly this article. I have a 1947 house. Both exterior kick plates need to be replaced. Unfortunately I don’t think they had ice and water shield in 1947 when it was constructed. I may try to find someone who can do it, but I like understanding the issues involved before I hire anyone. Thank you SO much.
Cutting off the trim was a mistake IMO. Does not look nice at the end with it not lining up to the metal door base. Would have been MUCH better to cut a notch out of each corner of your board for the trim to fit into (which I assume is how the old kickboard was cut). As is it will work, but it doesn’t look great.