Sanding between coats of paint is an essential step in preparing surfaces for painting, especially if the paint job is smooth and even. It removes bumps or imperfections from the previous coat, creating a smoother surface for the next coat. However, if the previous coat is smooth and even, sanding may not be necessary. Sanding should be done after cleaning a given surface and is typically done before the first coat and after the final coat to achieve a smooth finish.
Sanding between coats of paint serves multiple purposes, including removing imperfections or paint bubbles, enhancing adhesion between layers, and ensuring a professional-looking result. It is not always necessary, but it is highly recommended when applying polyurethane over stain or raw wood. Most paints are not capable of adhering well to smooth and glossy surfaces like these, so it’s almost always necessary to sand.
Sanding is a crucial step in the prep process, and needs done any time you refinish an enameled/sheen surface to etch for a bond. If you want the most professional finish and can afford the cost, sanding between coats of primer and paint is recommended. Sanding can cover up a myriad of imperfections and help your paint adhere better. Most quality paints can even cover white over black with two coats after white primer. If your paintwork is already in good condition, a light but thorough sand should be sufficient. After sanding, the surface should have a flat sheen. For glossy finishes, it’s better to sand it to ensure the new paint sticks permanently.
In conclusion, sanding between coats of paint is essential for achieving a smooth finish, removing imperfections, and enhancing adhesion between layers.
📹 Do you need to sand between coats of exterior paint?
Why You Need to Sand Between Coats of Exterior Paint • Sanding Coat Paint • Find out why sanding between coats of exterior …
Can I just paint over old exterior paint?
Painting over old exterior paint can give your home a fresh, updated look. If the existing paint is of the same type and the exterior is in good shape, you can paint without sanding. However, if the exterior is wood, you may need to sand it for proper paint application. Before painting, it’s essential to assess the state and type of the existing paint. A prime may not be necessary if the old paint is in good condition and adequately adhered to the surface.
Do I need to sand between coats of satin paint?
The text emphasizes the importance of proper preparation and application of satin paint for a professional finish. It suggests that sanding between coats is necessary for a smoother finish. This ensures proper adhesion of each layer, resulting in a smooth, even surface. Regular maintenance and care tips can prolong the longevity of the painted surfaces. Pristine Painters, an interior painting contractor, is recommended for their attention to detail and quality work. Contact them to discuss how they can enhance your home or business’s appearance.
Do you wet or dry sand between paint coats?
Wet sanding is a technique used to improve the clarity and image of paint, remove foreign contaminants, and prevent paint oxidization. It can be applied to single and two stage paints, which are both color and finish coats. Single stage paints have a shiny finish, while two stage paints require a base coat and a clear coat for final shine and protection. Wet sanding can also improve the quality of poorly laid paid layers.
For a single-stage paint project, it is essential to have enough paint material to work with to avoid sanding or burning through the paint layer, exposing primer or causing ghosting effects. This can be repaired by repainting the affected area.
After painting, it is typically recommended to wait at least a week for the paint to cure, depending on the paint thickness and climate. The hardness of the paint is crucial to prevent damage or imperfections in the final finish.
Can you paint over old paint without sanding?
To paint old painted furniture without sanding, use a Deglosser to prep for new paint. If the existing paint is water-based, you can repaint it with whatever you like. However, if the current paint is oil-based and you plan to update it with water-based, you may need to take steps to prevent the paint from peeling. Oil resists water, while water does not. It’s essential to note that oil does not resist water.
Can I paint exterior without sanding?
When painting an exterior, it is essential to ensure that the surface is free of loose paint chips and debris to ensure the best adhesion. If there is no more flaking, the paint will bond to the surface, making it difficult for the new paint to adhere to. Sanding is not necessary after scraping, as most people will not be able to detect the edges of pre-existing paint. A product called “Peel Bond” by XIM can be used as an alternative to endless scraping.
A primer is not necessary for exterior painting, but some new paints, such as Hirshfield’s Platinum exterior and Benjamin Moore’s Aura exterior, are self-priming and can be applied with a couple of coats. Painters work on exteriors into early November, but it is important to consider the weather in the upper Midwest, such as temperature and dew point, when painting. If temperatures are in the upper 30’s or 40’s, it is possible to paint, but local painting professionals should be consulted for safety advice.
Should you sand between coats of exterior paint?
Sanding between paint coats is a common practice for both experienced and novice painters. It may take longer and require patience, but the results are worth the effort. If you prefer a quicker process, Five Star Painting can help you transform your home or one room. To protect floors and furniture from paint splatters, use high-quality drop cloths and painter’s tape. Assemble your painting supplies, including brushes, rollers, and paint trays, according to the project’s size and detail.
A clean and prepped surface is crucial for a flawless finish, so fill any holes or cracks with patching compound and sand down rough areas to create a smooth canvas for paint to adhere to. Call them at 261-3633 or request a free estimate online.
What happens if you apply second coat of exterior paint too soon?
Impatient painting can lead to paint peeling, bubbling, clumping, and flaking off when dried. Additionally, uneven coloring in certain wall spots may occur. To achieve the best color outcome, it is recommended to add at least two coats of paint on top of one coat of primer when painting the interior of your home. It is crucial to wait for the paint to dry before adding a second coat to avoid potential issues.
What grit sandpaper between paint coats?
Sanding is a crucial process for removing scratches and flaws from wood, metal, and other surfaces. The most important aspect is to know when to sand enough to remove all flaws and scratches from each grit. This is the reason why most people sand more than necessary. To determine when to sand enough, two methods can be used: first, look at the wood in a low-angle reflected light after removing the dust, or second, wet the wood and look at it from different angles into a reflected light. This helps in determining the appropriate amount of sanding to achieve the desired finish.
Why do painters sand between coats of paint?
Sanding is essential for creating a rough surface for better paint adhesion and removing old paint. It saves time in the long run and can be beneficial in resolving mistakes later. However, the type of paint used will determine if sanding is necessary. Some paints adhere well to certain surfaces, while others require a rough area for optimal application. For instance, bathroom trim or kitchen cabinets with semi-gloss or high-gloss finishes may require sanding between coats, as most paint won’t adhere to glossy surfaces. On the other hand, if you have already painted a room with a matte or eggshell finish paint, you can apply a second coat without sanding after adequate drying time.
What grit sandpaper should I use between coats of paint?
Sanding is a crucial process for removing scratches and flaws from wood, metal, and other surfaces. The most important aspect is to know when to sand enough to remove all flaws and scratches from each grit. This is the reason why most people sand more than necessary. To determine when to sand enough, two methods can be used: first, look at the wood in a low-angle reflected light after removing the dust, or second, wet the wood and look at it from different angles into a reflected light. This helps in determining the appropriate amount of sanding to achieve the desired finish.
Will paint stick without sanding?
For DIY outdoor projects, consider mineral paint as a durable and easy-to-use option. It adheres to almost any surface and comes in various sheen options. However, there is no universally best paint for wood furniture, as it depends on personal preference and the project. Experimentation is key to finding the right paint for your furniture, considering its long-term purpose and desired look. The best paint for wood furniture depends on your preferences and the project at hand.
📹 Improper sanding between coats of finish- HOW TO AVOID IT!
How to sand properly between coats of finish and get silky-smooth results! When you use this link to visit our sponsor, you support …
I’m only 2 years into my wood working adventure and it was youtubers that triggered this new found passion(and thousands of dollars that my wife isnt fully clear where I have spent). Some youtubers and their influence on me has come and gone rather quickly. I saw your articles early on, but they weren’t the ones that hooked me or particularly interested me. Not flashy, not sensational, and most egregious, no promises of “make easy money with pallet wood”. I wanted to make easy money and I wanted it to be easy. Well… However, as I progressed and got more serious about what I was doing I quickly realized where true value existed. Your articles by contrast were down to the point, well reasoned, and you explain not just what to do but WHY you would want to do it/not do it and what to look out for. Something I have grown to greatly appreciate. So many times as someone getting into this environment you literally don’t know what you don’t know. Out of all the youtubers out there you have consistently been the most informative. When I scour youtube for answers to a question I have and your article turns up in a result–it is the first one I click on now adays. While it may not be the highest praise; I consider you amongst the best out there.
Such an informative article. I’m refinishing a wood floor in my house and couldn’t figure out why on earth I’m supposed to sand between coats of finish. Every instructional article or article recommends sanding but doesn’t give a reason why. Now I know! I appreciate the time you put into making this article so clear and informative.
Great article. Very informative. I applied my first coat of oil based polyurethane and sanding it to get rid of dust and small bubbles prior to my next coat. When sanding, do I sand it down until it’s smooth? Or, until I can’t see the outline of the bubbles/dust? Right now it’s smooth, but I can still see the round outline of the bubbles. Thank you!
In order to get all the dust particles off the wood, I end up sanding all the finish off the wood. In order to remove the dust particles from the wood before finishing, I vacuumed the wood, then wiped it with a tack cloth. This does’t seem to have been good enough. I don’t have a shop, so I am working in my kitchen. I vacuumed the kitchen really well before applying the finish. I am using Old Master’s oil varnish with a natural bristle brush. I pour the finish into another container and work from there. I’m really having a difficult time. I’ve sanded off the finish twice now.
Thanks for this great explanation and demo as always. I tried to do my first finish using pure Tung oil+turpentine on an oak desk top after perusal your other articles on Tung oil. I was sanding with 320 grit between coats, and learnt by myself the 2 hands method for feeling and sanding but I wasn’t aware I had to increase to 600 and 1000 grit so I made the error to keep the 320. After 3 coats it still looks like I have applied only 1 coat. I will try the techniques presented here. For now, I am not really impressed by how the wood looks (its just oak, but I was expecting more contrast & reflections) and I look after the aesthetics more than the smoothness feeling. What would you do to make the wood patterns look more beautiful? Would you recommend doing “wet sanding” (applying the oil with the sandpaper)? I understand this technique is supposed to fill the pores with the dust just sanded while applying it. It’s been done on a few guitar making articles, but I can’t tell what’s it’s worth compared to your technique. Regards
i bought a guitar with a very poor poly coat applied over top of another very old poly coat. is there any way to just remove the top coat? i doubt they even sanded down the poly before applying this coat. but no telling how long ago that was and im scared to do anything becase i dont want to ruin the original finish if it is savable. any ideas would be great. it looks awful and a very high end guitar.
If you ever do a article on rubbing out a finish (maybe you have?), you can become an internet hero if you talk about rubbing out when there are mouldings, drawer faces, etc. In other words, everyone talks about rubbing out the nice flat top, but no one talks about getting a compatible, uniform sheen over all the rest of the piece where there are corners, dips, dives, and wiggles that invariably get cut through whenever you try to sand them. What makes me think of this is that it sounds like you just use your brown paper everywhere, but what if you want more control of the sheen level? I must admit that craft paper hasn’t quite worked for me. It will make the surface feel better, but I’m never happy with the sheen, which tends to end up with glints or dull spots rather than one uniform sheen, even on flat tops. I landed here today because I’m applying Waterlox on oak (only use Waterlox occasionally) and it’s driving me insane by looking like gooseflesh despite doing all the normal tricks (like you show here). I don’t think it’s dust.
Sanding between coats on the “finish” product is a well-known pro technique. But where are the experienced woodworkers talking about sanding between stain coats? IME, mostly with wood veneers, my oil-based stain color does not look rich enough unless one applies two coats of stain. Typically, I let the first coat dry for 24 hours. But a European painting contractor once told me to lightly re-sand the stained surface before applying a second coat of stain, with 400-600 grit flat paper by hand, the same technique you show here. He also said, if the second coat of stain raised the grain, to lightly sand once again before applying the first coat of finish. I can’t find any reliable Youtubers who support this experience.
I love the amount of detail and explanation you put into these tutorials. I have learned a bunch from since I started “self teaching” myself woodworking a couple years ago. I mostly do “artsy” stuff and carvings. But MANY of your tips apply! I am also considering a Harvey table saw after your review. The only thing I don’t like about them is where they are manufactured. I may have to get over that though, because, my garage shop gets very humid. The chances of condensation are much higher. That’s terrible for cast iron. But the tin coating on a Harvey really helps minimize that issue!
Any tips for dealing with dust nibs when finishing with nitrocellulose lacquer? I know lacquer isn’t a super popular finish anymore, but it is sometimes unavoidable in my field (musical instrument repair & restoration). I am currently spraying a white lacquer finish – which was initially supposed to be 12 total coats between base, color and clears – and I’ve been having nightmares about this project for months now because of dust particles and lint in the finish. Problem is, with some of the dust I end up having to sand down so deep to get the dust out that I end up causing discolorations. If I ignore the dust outright and assume that it will come out while wet sanding, eventually so much dust builds up in the finish that I just end up being unhappy with the final result and can’t bring myself to give it back to the customer in that condition. Clear lacquer also seems to have a slightly yellowing effect as well, so as the thickness of the clear coat over top of an area increases, the color changes slightly. Then when I go to sand out a dust nib later, the thickness of the clear coat in that area changes, and causes a different type of discoloration. Like I mentioned, this project has been giving me nightmares for months now, and I’m at a point where I’m not even sure if it’s possible to get a white lacquer finish that I would be proud of in this spray environment anymore. Any ideas to help me get to the finish line would be massively appreciated.
At 2:37 you suggest using mineral sprits to swipe up the last of the dust. Wouldn’t it depend on the material you are applying? If I’m using a water based finish, wouldn’t I want to use water? I actually like a small amount of alcohol because it flashes off quickly – understanding you can’t really do that with Shellac or you screw up what you have just put down. VERY smart to not use compressed air and to vacuum up with big stuff. And I REALLY like the paper bag trick. I had just used one sheen “brighter” than I want the final to be (semi-gloss if I want satin) and that final sanding always took it down a notch – but the bag trick might just replace that theory after all my years of using it. Nice to learn something new!
New Butcher block table top, sanded 280, filled (thousands of) pores with a mixture of sanding dust and 1:1 oil poly/thinner scraped into the surface across the grain. Sand again with 280. Sprayed 5% reduced gloss oil poly. The surface is very grainy only shiny in a couple of places at edge. I have never used a spray gun before. What would cause the surface to be grainy? I spraying three pieces 30″x48″, sprayed them all horizontally and immediately sprayed regular vertically. All exhibit the grainy surface. Should I wait 24 hours and sand the surface say with 600, would that salvage the first coat? Hopefully I can figure out what’s causing the grainy surface. Before I go further. Thanks
How about when there’s something perpendicular to your surface? How do you deal with your surface in that corner? I ask because I make pretty hook and ring toss games and always struggle with the finish on the base around where the post is mounted. I think next time, I’m going to pre-finish the board prior to gluing/screwing the post in place but that makes me nervous because I need to leave enough of the surface raw, but make sure to not leave any surface not covered by the post raw.
Mr. Nubs, I’m afraid you have stubbed one of my peeves. You wrote that your website is “Truly unique,” but you misspelled “truly.” I’m not going to tell you the wrong spelling you used because most people judge correct spelling by what looks most familiar. I know this isn’t a huge deal but it is a really big pet peeve of mine. I’m actually worried I won’t be able to keep feeding it, but I don’t want to give it up for adoption so I keep it around. It’s possibly my oldest and most loyal pet.
Hey! maybe you can help. Ive got a wood boat with epoxy/fiberglass over cedar, and then spar varnish over it. The person i got it from let it get too much sun, or to much temperature change, and the outer finish is checked. Should I sand down to the epoxy to revarnish. Ive been slowly sanding more and more off, but the little checks are still very apparent. Its about 23 year old varnish.
Beware, I used new 1500 grit sandpaper on wipe-on poly after the fourth coat and it made very visible scuff marks. The wipe on poly was several days dry and I sanded gently with the grain. I put on another coat and the scuff marks are still visible, so I have to start over. This advice did not work in this case
I am applying many thin coats of rub-on poly (for a well used kitchen table) and am afraid of sanding through the coats if I sand between every coat. I tried using the 600 grit and feel like I am removing what I just put on. Because I am applying the rub on poly in thin coats, I am getting a really smooth finish already. Can I use a brown paper bag to sand between coats since it is mainly for the adhesion of coats instead of making it smoother? And do I really need to sand between every coat since the coats are very thin?
try damping your floor with water just before you finish your wood projects. just dampen the floor with water, and no puddles. You will literally watch the air clear up of dust. When you dampen the floor the dust stays on the dampened floor thus eliminating the dust all most all together!!! . A old trick from when I painted cars with that old Enamel spray paint. This goes back the the Early 1970’s
Now this is the article I needed. I stopped sanding between coats and moved to using a piece of cardboard to knock off the nibs, because even with 400 grit I was getting scratches. I also started covering my projects while they dry with a tub with a few holes drilled into the very bottom. I created a lazy susan style tray to help avoid touching the project too. One day I wan’t to get an HVLP system, but for now it is mostly wiping on thinned down finishes. I’ve also started doing my finishing on a pop-up table inside the house, because the humidity and temps are all over the place in my shed, and it makes drying time so unpredictable. It was 91 with 86% humidity in my shed today. No amount of fans can help that become a reasonable place for finishing.
Discovered you today and I am so pleased with how you give instructions/directions on what to do/not do. I am new at restoring furniture and I am finding that top coating is my nemesis so you are a blessing. I find my finishes are streaky in spots. I use water-based products and apply with a paddle sponge. I have now resanded down to bare Maple, have applied a ‘wash’ and now a stain. Top coating is next and I am already apprehensive with the quality finish. Are your instructions here the same for water-based as with oil top coat. I am now going to try with Varathan Diamond water-based interior Satin(fyi). What is your opinion on sanding between coats with 0000 steel wool? And lightly wiping with tack cloths
If you want a seriously flat surface you need to knock the material back with 80 grit at least to get it flat, even 120 grit is the start of you getting mountains on high spots it won’t cut quick enough. If its flat then you can do what you like with it just move up to 240 between coats then a 400 with a red scuff pad after you flat sand with the 400/600 before the final coat. To denib 180 grit automotive wet paper is thee best denibber if you are strictly denibbing just that spot. Then you can knock the scratches of that and blend it in quick with a 600 before the next coat or before final cut and polish. Save yourself a bunch of time don’t bother trying to sand out large high and low spots with anything above 80 it won’t cut it flat even with a block sander.
Very well presented. i have a question though…what do you do when you can see places where there was too much poly left on and is now dry? i tried sanding with 220 or 320 and now there are white areas, smooth by white. will the next coat of poly seal in the white or get rid of it. i was applying wipe on poly.
Need advice. I built an outdoor bar and used 2×8’s screwed together w pocket holes to make the countertop 2×16. I used a wood sealer and made sure I hit every mm of the wood to seal it best as I can. Is there anything more I can or should do? I would like to put a coat of polyurethane as well. Not sure if my approach is novice dumb or not. Looking for advice. Thanks.
I do use primarily BLO for tool handles, I watched so many articles over the last years. Well I just learned alot perusal half an hour on your website… 😀 mainly that i need to wait way longer between coats, even to understand the differents between soaked in and really dry. I kind of like the finish 00steel wool gives on blo handles, but when to use isn‘t really clear to me. Do i need to wait until it is completly dry? I know that the finish can‘t be to sticky, because I had partickes of the wool stuck in my finish before… 😀 semi dry seems to work ok fine, I havent got the chance to try really dry yet.
Every time I see a woodworking article about finishing and ALL of them, including this article state as gospel the proper finishing methods. I urge every woodworker to sign up aqnd take a finishing classes from a finish manufacturer. I am no different than you or any others but I took high end furniture finishes course through Guardsman finishes decades ago when I lived in Michigan. Sadly Guardsman is gone but all the major paint and finish manufacturers offer courses and the difference is night and day between stab in the dark methods such as I see you preach on versus tried and true methods. I am telling you this as constructive critisism but many I have told about this scoff and say I have no idea what I’m talking about but I have been applying high grade finishes on all cabinet and furniture projects as well as other woodworking projects with flawless results with far less than half the effort than you claim are essential. Good luck, you will need it your way.
Great article, very informative. I use oil based poly thinned 50% and apply it with bakers linen cloth. That cuts down on the lint dust that is always there. In between coats I sand with crocus cloth. The crocus cloth has no appreciable grit and does a good job of polishing away the roughness on the poly. I can use the crocus on the final coat with no scratches. Course I’m sanding very lightly. The only issue is it’s hard to find and expensive. But a sheet can be reused over and over. Keith
I never got a smooth finish (without spraying) until I started doing two things. Sanding with 400+ grit VERY lightly (just enough to smooth out the bumps) between coats, and then using VERY thin coats for the topcoats.It should be just enough to wet the surface, and no more. If it’s thin enough, it will dry EXTREMELY fast. Bubbles can’t form in a layer that thin and because it dries so quickly,dust isn’t too much of a problem. Thinning the poly for the topcoats helps too.
Good post. My only addition is lacquer dissolves into itself and dries quickly. This allows multiple thin coats to be laid down successively before needing to sand. I prefer a sealer coat of shellac that raises the grain, sand with 320, lay down 3 coats of spray lacquer, then sand with 600 or 800 grit, then a final thinned coat. From there you let the finish cure for a couple weeks and sand/ buff to whatever sheen you desire.
I wish I would have watched this article before I sanded My guitar. I decided it would be a good idea to engrave a cross in the back of my guitar and long time ago and I decided that I wanted to take all the good loss and get it down to the barewood well in the back I engraved a cross so I had to make the wood even to get rid of that cross, in some spots I went a little too deep, I put the stain on, which is a ebony or black stain, and when I look at it that’s all I see is the spots that I boogered up lol is there any way to fix it cuz I just keep adding layers of stain, actually today I just put a second coat on . I thought that the spots where I went to deep would just look like a rotten spot on a piece of wood and I would have been fine with that but it really just didn’t soak in the stain, I’m open to any suggestions please help
Hello Stumpy Nubs. Thank you for sharing the paper bag trick for buffing finish for the last final time. I always enjoy and learn a lot from your articles. I had some tables that I had to refinished because the kids accidentally spilled some super glue on them in about 20 spots. I used a fine blade scraper with paper under each corner to remove the super glue. I then sprayed the tables with helmsman’s semi-gloss Spar urethane with my air paint sprayer. I wound up with a bunch of little tiny tiny air bubbles or bumps. I think they might buff out but I just want to take the bumps off and then Maybe rebuff the whole Surface by hand. How would you tackle this project of taking the little bumps out of the Finish? Also for the buffing, would you recommend using Watco finishing wax? I really love the feel of this wax after it has been applied to a perfect finish. Believe it or not I also use it on my table saw and jointer. It doesn’t leave any wax buildup on your wood and it makes the surface really slick. Thanks again. Gene
We’ll unfortunately on my first project, after perusal this, I skipped a bunch of steps… it looks good, but now I’ll see how much I’ve missed on it looking perfect… I have a question though! Could it be best if you already know all of your cuts to stain and clear coat BEFORE assembly? Thinking back on the beginning of my project before staining, there’s tight areas that would be impossible to reach with sanding and they’d show if I followed this step by step… it seems as though it would be best to get em perfect before articulating everything together
I’ve been doing most of what you demonstrated, but never had it explained so well. Now, with a better understanding, I can explain those times I had unsatisfactory results or a hiccup in my process. I may be a turner, but I find so much useful theory in your articles. Thank you for that. On your recent spindle roughing gouge article I was ready to scrutinize your article. Nothing to critique. Just good information. And, the next day, I put down my skew and grabbed the SRG just for fun.
Question, I’m late to the party, but hope I’m not to late on fixing the problem. I sanded in order all the way to 320 grit and was gonna stain next. Then I saw your article. Is it to late or can I re-sand at 180 grit to raise the wood back, so the wood will stain better? Please help by the way I’m using ash wood and oil based stain.
could you say a little bit about sanding the edges and corners of a piece to avoid removing the stain underneath? Or how thick to make the first coats to possibly avoid removing the stain underneath – especially when using wipe-on poly since the coats are so much thinner than other types of finish? I still struggle with accidentally removing stain when sanding between coats and having to strip and start again. Or I make the mistake of not sanding enough during the first few coats to avoid burning through the finish and then I end up with the other issues you discussed in this article.
One critical addition to sanding between coats I believe you should mention is using a Tac rag to remove dust and debris particles. Tac rags are a sticky cheese cloth which when lightly rubbed over the wood’s surface remove any contaminating particles. Most hardware or stores like Lowe’s or Home Depot carry them. They are cheap and very effective.
I HAVE USED A NUMBER OF FINISHES THE 1-FINISH I HAVE FOUND THAT I LIKE THE BEST IS ARMERSALE SEMI OR SATION FINISH THE BEST ONE OF MY BUILD’S IDID WAS A BLACK OAK TOP DESK WITH A LIVE EDGE AND A CURLY CHERRY BADE WITH A BIRDS EYE MAPLE DRAW THAT WAS HALF INCH THICK TEAK BOTTEM THE LEG’S I CUT FROM 16QUATER AFRICAN MAHOGANY I CUT THE LEG’S WITH A 2-SIDED TAPER AND I USED 8++COAT’S OF ARMER SALE I HAVE HAD THE DESK IN A TEMP THAT DIFFER’S A 10-TO-15DG AT THE VERY MOST FOR THE LAST 3 TO 4++– YEARS AND I HAD TIME STAMPED THE DESK I HAD SOME HELP FROM A FRIEND AND HIS ADVICE THIS FRIED THAT HELPED DID GO TO 1 THE BEST SCHOOL’S IN THIS COUNTRY THE NORTH BENNET SCHOOL I DO THINK THIS SCHOOL IS A IVY LEAG LEVAL OF WOOD WORKING. SOME OF THE BEST WOOD WORKERS OF TODAY HAVE COME FROM THIS SCHOOL THAT HAS BEEN A ROUD SINCE THE MIDDEL 1800’S I REALY LIKE YOUR TIP OF THE BROWN PAPPER BAG I WILLHAVE TRIY THIS OUT WHEN USE THIS TRICK IS IT A TRICK THAT CAN BE DONE WEEK’S OR MONTHS DOWN THE ROAD AND HAVE THE PROJECT LOOKING JUST AS NICE???????
It’s nice to find a pro who has dedicated his life to a particular skill and is also willing to take the time to share that skill. Your command of the English language and speaking skills kept me hanging on every word. Needless to say with your guidance my project came out spectacular. Many thanks for sharing your insight.