Exterior ductwork insulation systems should combine thermal attributes with superior weatherproofing, provide simple installation, self-healing features, and resistance to puncture, UV rays, wind, and rain. To improve installation specifications, learn best practices for insulating rooftop duct systems and improve specifications for better installations. Exterior ductwork insulation systems also require waterproofing products to protect the insulation from damaging water, preserve efficiency and integrity, and reduce energy costs. Seam tape is particularly effective for concrete roofing and can be applied using strong pressure to prevent water seeping in.
To weatherproof through-roof flues and ducts on built-up roofs, cut a square hole in the siding, remove a few pieces of siding, and create a flap in the work area. Polyguard offers peel and stick, flexible waterproofing products that provide superior weatherproofing, self-healing, and durability. Cover with Rubber Seal Textile Tape immediately after applying the first coat, press the Tape firmly until saturated, and silicone the top and sides of the vent cap.
Prime the roof with a professional painter using a primer before applying paint. Cover exterior HVAC duct insulation wrap with Alumaguard® All-Weather to protect ductwork from moisture, air, and vapor intrusion. The first step in waterproofing a roof is cleaning, priming, treatment of details, main coating application, and inspection. Inuslate the duct enclosure space on all sides to R40 or so using polyurethane board or spray foam to cacoon the duct before the roof goes on.
📹 How to seal duct leaks on a commercial roof
This video explains one thing you can easily do if you notice leaks by the vent in the ceiling of a commercial building. The roof …
📹 How To Install Roof Vents. FAST! PROPERLY!
Be sure to like and subscribe in order to help me bring you more helpful videos filled with tips and tricks I’ve learned over the …
Not a hater, and i appreciate your vids. But have you ever tried twisting the actual vent part while you have the pan pinned down? Not sure what kind of vents you have where you live, but on the west coast, you can twist them almost an inch either way to straighten them out. Also, it will leak without sealant in rainy/snowy areas. We use Ice n Water around ours.
with all the respect …I don’t think is the best way to install vents …but if it works for you it’s fine…as long as it works it works..after being on the roofs since 1995 …I know better and faster ways to do it . hope my humble opinion does not bother you …great article anyways… with all my respects : Eric Garcia by the way ….your nailing is toooooo Deeep brother…adjust the pressure of your air compressor .
I have been repairing roofs just like this one that are under 5 years old. Roofers have a common habit to over pressure their guns and blow straight thru the shingles. One or two is fine; caulk it, add a good nail and move on. They almost never fix the mistake tho, and when shingles start blowing off the owners realize the warranty won’t cover it. Inspectors don’t care and would never see it anyway. Homeowners call me when they have a yellow spot in their ceiling, or when shingles fill the yard after a good wind.
Hey brother, just a quick question. Why aren’t you running a bleeder on the top of your vents or securing them on the top and sides? The vent has a six inch plate on both sides. You should be able to secure the sides. I get if you’re worried about nails in the seams, but if that’s the case you should be running blackjack under your vents. But that’s just my opinion. Either way keep up the good work.
Hi Zack, I’m a clueless homeowner when it comes to roofs. We had a solar attic roof vent installed and the guys covered a couple of the other vents near it…which I understand why. My question is; in order to properly cover the old vent holes, is it normal to go over it with wrap and shingles, or should it be covered with plywood first? Thanks. Great website brother!
Didn’t have to fully cut the square out should have only cut as high as the top vent in Canada ther way he’s doing is lazy most shinglerd would tell you keep both shingles full not just the top one it’s only faster cause it’s more lazy then taking the time to use you more and cut around the vent in stead of cutting nicely around the vent for both top shingle he separated one and put full one on top That like roofers saying they can do it cheaper and not add the paper anything faster is cheaper
I’m a roofer and I can tell you this way is legit to some degree but not 💯 water tight especially when you put nails in the front of the vent and use caulking which we all know can be compromised over time and weather I’ve never put nails in front we always use neaprem neepers if I spelled it right anyway it’s a water proof screw with a rubber seal washer that will out do chulking . As for the gapping on the shingle to vent I’ve always used a two finger space all the way around this in return will give the water a path to escape at a faster pace rather the sit right up against the metal and shingle.This way also looks alot better in my opinion
Yo I’ll tell ya what I learned the roofing game from the old school cats but I’ll tell ya what these young guys that think they no everything and use 10 pounds of caulk and over kill shit like these vents like burying them like I seen one guys comment that’s the whole point of the vent it don’t need to be buried that’s the whole point of the vent it won’t leak if done right then guys need to watch your articles im liking your stuff man keep it up. And haters stop hating we know every roofer does there own way and there way is the right way
All it’s going to take is one savage raccoon. That vent will pop off like nothing. Not to mention a bad wind storm. End point being if you don’t nail sides and top of vents, and by some chance something happens – you can say goodbye to the warranty as the company will claim it to be install defect rather than product defect. Rather than try to make trucks/shortcuts, just do it right seeing as your there. I mean even when I go to a repair job to retrofit a vent into existing roof, I always lift the tabs on the side to nail under the shingles up the side of the vent, then renail and re seal the lifted shingles. And that’s using a venmar/maximum vent, in a retrofit job. Not using one of these dimly little vents on a new install. Point being ehh try to sacrifice quality to literally shave 2 min off a vent….. on a roof that should be there for 20 years…….
Don’t ever cut towards you had like that OMG . I had flash backs when I saw you do it… I did samething and cut shit out my hand, cut alway across it.. cut veins and everything cuz my blade slipped on me ! Cut me like a butter ! Blood was spraying everywhere, I have to run to emergency room put stitches on. Neighbor has to drive me there !
I usually dont have much bad to say and have learned quite a few tricks that save time. My observation on this is he is in Northern Indiana and I am in Michigan snow will find a way in there and if there is ever a shingle missing above it will leak. Underlayment usually an ice and syorm guard should overlap the top in a happy world. I am no roofer but I value my time, property and money. It may not get enough moisture to leak inside but it can over time damage the osb and stuff like that. But I would check what local codes dictate for sure
Just from a viewer standpoint, I am not reading all the “hater herd” comments and I don’t know about them until you point them out. NO need to put references to haters in teh article, just distracts. Besides, look at ANY roofing article and there is more hate in teh comments than any other article – roofers eat their young and are merciless with their opinions.
So what is the advantage to covering the hole with shingles? Is it so you can’t nail the top of the vent? Why not just install the vent after the row of shingles at the bottom portion of the vent has been laid, and then cut the shingles that go over the flashing along the sides and top, after the vent has been installed? I suppose it’s faster to cut around a hole in the roof than to cut to an installed vent, but then you sacrifice some nailing of the vent, expecting the shingles to do the holding of the vent, but that isn’t what shingles are supposed to do. It’s really not their job to do that. It might work, but during a lot of high wind, couldn’t the wind lift up on the top part of the vent and begin to work on the shingles?
The nails that you place at the bottom within the exposed flashing are a HUGE NO NO. There are very few cases where flashing should ever be nailed. The reason is if you look close it creates a small pocket where water can sit, and should the nail lift any, due to it freezing or due to wind or heating and cooling of the metal, ect it gives water an entrance. Your method can and will leak, its just a matter of time. The vent should have been installed 1 row before it was installed on, and its supper important that this row not have a seam 6 inches before or after the vent. It should be nailed starting towards the top and outer most part of the vent where it meets the row its being installed on long the sides, 1 or 2 nails per side is all you need. Because its installed one row lower your next row will result in completely, covering the ugly metal, and giving a professional look. Yes I know water will run along the sides of the vent and under this shingle but it will safely exit out on the shingle below, this is why we made sure there were no seams within it near the vent. This also prevents wind from blowing under the lower flashing of the vent, hence why it does not need nailed. Finally we take a piece of ice and water shield and cut a upside down square out of it making sure it fits tight to the vent overlapping the most recent shingle. This protects the top from any ice backup that might occur. Vents in my area are prone to ice buildup. The final row goes on, again making sure there are no seams within 6 inches of each side of the vent.
So a shingle is five nailed.But you install static vents with a higher profile w 1nail. not to mention ice back-up under vent will cause metal to rise. Install vents as u go properly vent goes on the butt line straight. Nothing difficult installing vents. you made it look painfully difficult and you cut corners.
You didn’t secure the sides or the top. And you shot a nail at the bottom center near the edge which is a leak just waiting to happen. You should always use metal roofing screws on the exposed flanges/pipe boots. Really you should throw those box vents in the trash can and install a ridge vent so that roof has 21st century ventilations and one less leak point. And for extra measure set all vents and pipe boots in ice and water shield.
Im 37 been roofing since i was 15 in the summers with my dad run my own crew now i can honestly say i never seen that technique for installing vents i do like it much faster however i dont neccessary understand why the flange needs to be exposed at all we always cut the shingles to cover the entire flange and never nail the front of the flange and dont put a nail in the shingle below the flange I’ve never had any call backs on my vents. Great work though and i commend you for having patience enough to do roofing educational articles while roofing.