This comprehensive guide provides step-by-step instructions on how to install tile floors, including cleaning the room, assessing the underlayment, pre-planning the orientation and location of tiles, marking installation guide lines with chalk, dry laying rows of tile, cutting tiles, using waterproof adhesive, and using spacers for uniform appearance. Proper installation of tile is key, and following membrane and tile manufacturers’ recommendations for tile mortar, grout, and trowel-notch size is essential.
To attach tile to concrete, there are three methods: installing the tile with an intervening layer of uncoupling membrane, or using a second method. If your tile floors are worn or chipped, or you’re ready for an upgrade, follow this guide to learn how to install a tile floor yourself. The guide also covers how to prep your space, what type of tile tools to use, and the steps to follow for ceramic tile floor installation.
Step-by-step installation involves ensuring your surface is clean, smooth, dry, and free of wax, soap scum, and grease. Carefully read and follow all instructions and precautions on the tile installation process. When installing the tile, follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for tile mortar, grout, and trowel-notch size.
This guide is suitable for laying tiles on wooden, cement, or concrete floors, and any type of tile you choose. If you’re considering replacing existing porch tiles, choosing tiles for a new porch, or tiling over a plain concrete floor, keep reading for some ideas.
📹 How to Install Tile on a Concrete Patio or Porch – Today’s Homeowner with Danny Lipford
Here are 7 steps to help you install tile on an exterior concrete slab surface, like on your home’s patio or porch. Subscribe to …
What do you put under outdoor tiles?
In laying outdoor floor tiles or stone, surface preparation is crucial. A solid concrete base is necessary for ground installations, while concrete, concrete masonry units (CMU), or cement backer boards are needed for wall or other surfaces. Poorly prepared substrates can compromise the finished flooring performance. The installer must ensure all surrounding surfaces are sound, clean, level, and meet minimum deflection requirements.
After setting the mortar bed or patch, test the surface to ensure it is as flat as possible before installing the tile or stone. A waterproofing and crack isolation membrane should also be used to reduce crack transmission, water leakage, and efflorescence.
After preparing the substrate, lay out the tile to ensure squares align correctly. If existing concrete slabs have expansion joints, plan the tile layout with soft joint material and a soft joint material (e. g., LATICRETE® LATASIL™), tile or natural stone silicone sealant. Apply exterior-grade thinset mortar to the substrate and back of each tile to prevent air spaces and ensure well-bonding. Spacers should be placed between tiles to create even spacing and generate straight grout lines for an aesthetically pleasing result.
Can you lay tile directly on concrete?
Tiles can be installed on a cured concrete surface, which is a robust, stable, and flat base that is optimal for porcelain tiles. Nevertheless, it is of the utmost importance to ascertain that the slab in question is, in fact, concrete, as there are instances where solid floors may be anhydrite screeds. Furthermore, it is essential to ensure that the slab is adequately dry before commencing the installation process. This guarantees that the tiled surface is appropriate for the intended purpose.
What is the 3 4 5 rule for laying tile?
In order to construct a triangle with a 90-degree angle, it is necessary to utilize a 5T and a 3-foot segment of tape. From the center, mark 4T on the tape and extend it for a distance of 5 ft, maintaining a linear trajectory.
How to lay floor tiles in porch?
To lay outdoor tiles, follow these steps: mark and prepare the area, mix adhesive, lay tiles, lay the rest of the tiles, apply the joint and clean, and enjoy the job. For a modern and stylish patio, consider learning how to tile 20mm porcelain tiles. The most economical way to tile is over a concrete base, but a PorcelQuick system can save money and materials by using a series of small pedestals made with sand and quick cement. This method can give your patio a contemporary feel but may not be the most cost-effective.
Can I lay tile directly on concrete?
Tiles can be installed directly onto concrete, but movement is a concern. The question is about a waffle slab with ten townhouses in a row, possibly on the same slab. The concrete has a few hairline cracks, but they are not of concern. The author is confused about the crack isolation membranes and what constitutes a crack of concern. The information on crack isolation membranes comes from US sources. The question is about the size of a crack and whether to fill or isolate hairline cracks.
How do you prepare ground for outdoor tile?
To lay tiles, dig the ground to a depth of 150-200mm using garden spades and maintain a slight slope for drainage. Fill the dugout area with gravel and crushed hard rock (hardcore) to a depth of 100-150mm and compress it, ensuring a slight slope. Place the hardcore on top of the mortar, using a mixture of sand and cement. Mix slurry powder with clean water and water for five minutes to create a smooth consistency. Coat the underside of the tile with this priming slurry.
Can you tile a porch?
Porch tile should be chosen for its durability and resistance to weather conditions. Black or dark-colored grout is recommended for a durable tile. Natural stone, porcelain, vitrified tiles, and terracotta are excellent options. Sample tiles are recommended for small Victorian geometric tiles and complex patterns. If laying tiles on an outdoor porch, ensure the subfloor has a minimum thickness of 50mm. Atlas Ceramics offers an extensive selection of porch tiles, and you can browse their selection or consult with an expert for advice.
Can you lay floor tile directly on concrete?
Tiles can be installed on cured concrete, which is a robust, stable, and flat base that is optimal for porcelain tiles. Nevertheless, it is of the utmost importance to ascertain that the slab in question is, in fact, concrete, as there are instances where solid floors may be anhydrite screeds. Furthermore, it is essential to ensure that the slab is adequately dry before commencing the installation process. This guarantees that the tiled surface is appropriate for the intended purpose.
What is the best tile for a porch entrance?
Porcelain or ceramic tiles are commonly used for front porches due to their durability, water resistance, and weather resistance. These tiles are designed to embody flow, transition, and cohesive style in your home. They come in a range of shapes, shades, and materials, making spatial transitions seamless. Our collection of front porch tiles offers a variety of options to enhance your home. Our design experts are passionate about DIY and can help you select the perfect tiles for your space and budget. You can also order samples to see the final look and feel of your front porch tiles. Don’t limit yourself to the same-old boring tile options and enhance your home with our beautiful collection.
Do you need concrete under outdoor tiles?
Concrete is a popular choice for outdoor tile bases due to its durability, drainage, and level surface. It is strong and stable, withstands heavy foot traffic and harsh weather conditions, making it an ideal base for outdoor tiles. However, improper support can cause cracks or breaks. Concrete’s natural porous nature allows water to drain away from the surface, preventing water from pooling under the tiles and causing them to loosen or crack. It also provides a level surface for laying tiles, ensuring a neat and professional-looking finished product.
However, there are some cons to laying outdoor tiles on concrete. Cost is a concern, especially if a new slab is needed. Cracks can occur over time, especially in extreme weather conditions, transferring to the tiles. Concrete also absorbs heat from the sun, making the outdoor space uncomfortably hot in the summer. Additionally, not all outdoor tiles can be laid on concrete, as some materials, like natural stone, may require a different base type.
In conclusion, while concrete is a popular choice for outdoor tile bases, there are alternative options available.
What is the best way to adhere tile to concrete?
Thinset mortar is a popular adhesive for ceramic tiles on concrete due to its ease of use and slower dry time compared to mastic or epoxy mortars. This allows for more time for tile adjustment and can help level any depressions or gaps in the concrete subfloor. Before tiling, it is recommended to seal the concrete to prevent water seepage through the tiles or grout. After thoroughly cleaning the concrete with TSP, a concrete primer is used to seal the concrete, and the manufacturer’s instructions should be followed. An anti-fracture membrane, often called Ditra, is also recommended to protect tiles from moisture, ensuring their integrity.
📹 6 TIPS For Laying Floor Tile With No Experience
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One thing i didnt see mentioned during the article (unless i missed it) is the arrows on the back. I found out the hard way that its a very important process to follow if you want your tiles to be leveled at each intersection. A friend of mine explained me that it is due to the press process when the times are created. Sometimes, they can be a little concave. I started without following the arrows and noticed that almost all the intersection had about a 1mm difference between times. In the middle of the installation, i decided to follow the instruction, and surprise. Everything went a lot smoother
Overall a great article. The floor looks lovely. I’ve only done a few of these jobs now but one thing ive learned is that youre supposed to move the tile to fully collapse the ridges. By doing so, you won’t have any voids underneath the tile which leaves it susceptible to breaking easily or coming loose in the event of subfloor movement from settling.
Don’t keep re wiping the grout. Let it haze and wipe it clean the next day. This is especially important if you are using a darker grout like black or charcoal. If you wipe it too much, the excess water will turn the grout white. The best method is wipe a 12 inch swipe with your sponge, flip it over, wipe another 12 inch swipe then rinse the sponge and repeat.
@4:49 “Under no circumstances slide the tiles into place as this will collapse the ridges”. From every pro I’ve watched on YT, you WANT and NEED the ridges to collapse. That’s the only way to get the recommended 90% adhesion. As has been showed in many articles, simply back buttering does not equal adhesion. You can easily test this by pulling up various tiles after you put them down to confirm how much of the tile was actually properly adhered to the mortar. I’m no Pro so perhaps a professional could chime in on the topic. Because I think you gave advice that is the exact opposite of what should be done.
Excellent tutorial article. How long do we have to wait after laying the tiles until we move in our Washer and Dryer. These are the tiles that we are going to use after our installer installed the vinyl sheet in 20 minutes without cleaning the old glue and debris. He moved in our Washer /Dryer right away. 1 hour later there were humps and depressions. Another guy will install the tiles.
One critical mistake you make in this article is not collapsing the ridges. You advised to do the exact opposite of what you’re supposed to do after laying the tile- wiggling the tile back and forth. This will not cause squeeze out through the joints if you first use a margin trowel to scrape away a thin strip of thinset along the tile edges before laying the tile.
Nice job! The only thing I would suggest is using Shluter Ditra instead of the lathe method. I find the Ditra easier to use because as soon as you lay the Ditra you can start tiling. No waiting till the mortar bed dries. Also, the grid pattern on the Ditra is helpful with aligning. I was about to comment about not back buttering the tiles (I have seem many pros not do this) but I waited and you did.
Some good tips here. I’d suggest not putting grout along the wall seams that can/could be covered with baseboard, as the walls may move a bit with seasonal changes in weather. You could go with a color matched silicon if need be. It remains flexible and allows that slight movement. It is also good to silicon the door threshold joint to reduce the possibility of cracking, especially with a transition to wood or laminate flooring… it is a high traffic area and may also move a bit.
Great tips but there are a two things you could do better. 1. Lay the lines in the mortar parallel to the short side of the tile. That way it is easier for the air between the ridges to escape. 2. Move the tiles in a side to side motion perpendicular to the mortar lines in order to set them. The goal is to collapse the ridges!
Thanks for the article. No expert here, but I have done a few rooms over the years. Clever idea of using the laser for guidance ! Hadn’t thought of that. I thought of snapping lines, too but realize they are useless as soon as mortar is applied. I also wish I had thought of a jig for the tile cutter. The fence on the table saw seems to jam frequently, or force the saw to stall often.
Your troweling you quick set in the wrong direction, the direction you are troweling it will trap more air. You also have to put more pressure on the tiles to collapse the ridges. I seriously doubt you have very good coverage and over time your tiles will start to come loose. Looks nice but it won’t last.
I saw the article, and I am an expert, I saw many mistakes that only lead to mediocre, imprecise and slow work. When designing a room, you just need to clear the room, choose the design, and put a starting line, always use the level even if the floor is level, always put the shims even if you use plastic levelers, for the grout use the sponge with a bucket for tilers, and to cut the tiles just use the hand tile cutter. The problem is not perusal the article and seeing the work in person, you will certainly notice many defects.
Those spacers cause problems! They stick underneath the tile, and raises the tiles away from the surface too much! It becomes easy to not end up with enough mortar and a tile can become loose. Or even accumulate water behind it as a result. You end up having to add a whole lot of extra mortar to ensure it’s thick enough. So, the directions you see from things like the Schluter Allset and whatnot, that tell you what trowel to you, that information goes out the window, because it’s incorrect, because those darn spacers lifted the tiles up. They’re thick as hell. Shitty tile jobs as a result all over !!!