Douglas Fir is a popular wood that can be effectively used outdoors due to its resistance to moisture, decay, and insect infestation. To treat it, pressure treatment is a highly effective method for protecting the wood against rot and decay. Sealing is another crucial step in maintaining the wood’s appearance while protecting it from UV rays and humidity.
There are various options for finishing, sealing, or staining Douglas Fir for outdoor use, which are grouped into three categories depending on their appearance. Pressure treatment involves forcing preservatives into the wood, while other treatments include borate wood preservatives, fire retardant treatments, and natural treatments.
To properly finish Douglas Fir, sand the surface of the wood smooth using 180-grit sandpaper, following the grain. Once the workpiece is silky smooth, apply an exterior wood sealer. Douglas fir is high maintenance, so it requires re-treatment every 3-4 months for the first couple years and then annually. Marine grade spar varnish can also be used, with the duty life varying depending on the quality of the varnish.
When caring for Douglas Fir, wait 3 weeks of exposure before caring for it. If you don’t want to wait that long, brush the wood with a mixture of sandpaper and a wood preservative designed for Douglas fir. Sand all four sides with 60 to 80-grit sandpaper, avoiding wood-to-ground contact. Use a brush to evenly apply Treatex Douglas Fir Protection in the same direction as the wood grain, allowing approximately 125ml per m².
When mold does appear, treat the wood with vinegar first before trying heavy anti-mold treatments. A high pressure cleaner can be a quick fix, but boiled linseed oil is the best option. Lathering it on the fir until it doesn’t soak up any more and wiping off the excess is essential.
📹 Treat Wood Yourself – How to Treat Wood Against Rot
If you hate pressure treated wood then here is a way to treat wood yourself and preserve your own wood. This technique has been …
How do you maintain Douglas fir cladding?
Douglas Fir cladding is a durable and beautiful option for exterior and interior buildings. Regular cleaning and application of protective oil can help maintain its appearance. The installation process requires careful preparation and attention to detail to ensure long-term performance. To achieve a professional finish, use stainless steel or galvanized screws/nails to prevent rust and apply a suitable stain or sealant for Douglas Fir. This will help achieve a rustic or modern aesthetic.
Can Douglas fir be used outside?
Douglas Fir wood is a popular choice for outdoor applications due to its strength, beauty, and resistance to weather conditions. It is used in various forms such as structural timbers, decking, and outdoor furniture. Its natural beauty and consistent performance make it a top choice for enhancing the charm and longevity of any outdoor project. Douglas Fir is a reliable and visually appealing wood that will stand the test of time.
How to treat Douglas fir for outdoor use?
It is recommended that outdoor staining products such as CUTEK be used due to their capacity to penetrate deeply into wood surfaces, thereby protecting both the interior and exterior. The product enhances the aesthetic appeal of wood and provides protection against ultraviolet radiation when a Colourtone is incorporated into the treatment. It is of the utmost importance to adhere to the instructions provided on the product label and to apply a wood conditioner prior to the application of the stain.
What is the best protection for Douglas fir?
To preserve the original appearance of Douglas fir wood and protect it from UV rays or humidity, it is recommended to use a saturator. The Terrace Wood Saturator is recommended for terraces and the Siding Saturator SB600 for sidings. Stains and oil are less durable and more difficult to apply, but they can cause damage and mold growth.
For new Douglas fir wood, it is advised to wait 3 weeks before applying a saturator due to its glossy finish. If you don’t want to wait that long, you can brush your douglas fir with a mixture of hot water and black soap, such as Liquid Black Soap SN800. This step is relatively easy for a douglas fir terrace.
When renewing maintenance of a terrace or Douglas siding, the frequency depends on the region and climate. High humidity and strong sun exposure may affect the frequency of treatments. If you prefer a grey effect, you should treat your wood more regularly. Apply a douglas fir treatment product as soon as the first changes in color occur. On average, customers recommend a treatment frequency of around once a year for decking and every two to five years for siding.
In summary, using a saturator is a recommended method for maintaining the natural appearance of Douglas fir wood, as stain and oil products may not provide the same protection. It is essential to adapt the frequency of treatments to suit the specific climate and region.
What is the best oil for Douglas fir?
Tung oil is a recommended product for Douglas fir due to its ability to enhance the wood’s natural beauty and grain.
What oils can I mix with Douglas fir?
Douglas fir oil is a woody scent that is well-suited to combination with essential oils of citrus, wood, and spice. It can be utilized in the preparation of homemade cleaning mixtures and warm diffuser blends. It is important to note, however, that the substance may cause skin sensitivity and should therefore be kept out of the reach of children. Furthermore, it is recommended that individuals who are pregnant, nursing, or under medical care consult with a physician before using this product.
How to treat wood for outdoor use?
To protect your outdoor wood from woodworm and rot, use a biocidal cleaner and an undercoat wood preservative. Stain the wood to give it a new look, and choose from wood oils, varnishes, wood sealers, and decking oils to balance protection and durability. Timber is a versatile construction material used for thousands of years, but most of it is susceptible to decay if left untreated. This is due to the focus on faster-growing softwoods like pine, which is not enough sustainable wood to meet demand.
Most buildings in the UK contain untreated timbers that can be affected by woodworm or damp, dry, or wet rot. These organisms negatively impact structural strength and can even cause structural damage. It is crucial to take action when active timber decay is identified to prevent structural damage to the building.
How do you keep Douglas fir fresh?
To maintain a fresh Christmas tree, cut off the bottom 1/2 inch of the trunk to remove hardened sap and measure its diameter. Add a quart of water to your tree stand for every inch of the trunk’s diameter. Keep the bottom 2 inches of the trunk immersed in water, even if it means refilling the stand daily. Use Miracle-Gro® for Christmas Trees to keep the tree hydrated and reduce needle drop. Turn down heat whenever possible and place the tree closer to a window, away from radiators and fireplaces. Decorate for Christmas with other plants like cactuses, amaryllises, and poinsettias. This method reduces needle drop when used as directed.
What kills Douglas Fir?
The Douglas-fir beetle (Dendroctonus pseudotsugae) is the most destructive bark beetle found in mature Douglas-fir forests in western North America.
Does Douglas fir need treatment?
Due to its high resistance to moisture and decay, Douglas-fir is an optimal choice for low-risk building situations, offering a natural wood alternative that is well-suited to those seeking benefits associated with such materials.
📹 HOW TO TREAT WOOD YOURSELF | Protecting it against ROT
Treatedlumber #woodwork #homestead This is how we treat our own wood on the homestead! We discuss a wood preserving …
Rot is caused by one of two general types of fungus, white and brown. Pretty technical terms, I know. They both require acidic environments to grow and usually temperatures above 50 degrees F. If you place very fine crushed limestone (often called stone dust or paver sand) in the bottom of the hole, and after placing the post, fill the hole with the same stuff, it cannot be made acidic as there is just too much alkalinity for an acid to exist without being neutralized. Water that enters the post through that limestone is made calcium rich. However the interior of posts can usually still rot no matter what you do except true pressure treating. But if the post becomes saturated with the calcium rich water, then its going to be rot resistant.
“Maaaaaawm! Can I go over to Timmy’s and play with tractors, torches and make cresote?” Awesome episode. I am glad you found use for the ol’ twisted timbers. Its funny how some of this stuff works. There are huge wooden bridge posts that rot at the surface level of the water but the timber under the water is fine because it isn’t ever exposed to oxygen which is needed for decomposition. The minerals in the water embed themselves in the fibers of the timber over the coarse of time and make the posts below the water line tough as rocks. literally. Thanks for sharing. – Will
I took apart a 50 year old building here in Ontario and I found those posts that were charred and possibly treated like yours were still sound, very hard to get out of the ground. Some were buried in concrete and they were rotten and no good anymore. All the poles were our eastern white cedar. I never heard of your mix, it sounds pretty simple, will certainly try that out here in the future
I want to do burnt wood on my business sign that we are building. So two questions. After burning what is the best thing to use to clear coat it ? Second question if I do a light stain after I burn it do I need to do a clear coat over the stain? I know nothing about wood so have no clue what is the best clear to put on it
Appreciate the lesson but I have to ask is the oil not going to harm the environment in some way? I mean when it rains the oil will leach a little and cause that tell tale “rainbow” in rain water right? I just have to wonder if that leaching oil near say your homestead water well can eventually leach into your water supply or just harm the environment in some other way? Just curious.
Had a plywood roof for decades on grandpas farm. All they did is lay down plywood. tarred and nailed strips of plywood over the seams then rolled on used oil every year or two. Never leaked and lasted until my uncle got the farm and quit oiling it. Then it eventually deteriorated, over about another decade, breached to water and the building rotted away. In my oppinion it’s a better result and longevity than shingles cause 25 year shingles sure as hell don’t last anywhere near 25 years anymore. They crack, break, curl and then leak. Then you are looking at the expense and labor of full replacement or you can just grab a paint tray, roller and a gallon or two of used oil and redo the roof before morning coffee for another year or two.
I did this to some fence post and a gate. I didn’t char the ends, but I soaked the ends in buck of diesel/used oil then pained the mixture on the rest of the post. I got about 7 years from the post and the gate is still good 9 years later. Termites never attacked the post, but they did eventually rot from the inside out. I think it was them wicking up water from the ground. If you live out west where it’s very dry I wouldn’t be surprised if this kind of treatment would last for decades. In a wetter climate a few years is all you’ll get from anything touching the ground.
Something’s never go out of style because they work. I bought my first vehicle, 65 C10 Apache for $150 from a construction company had had Cats, back Hoes, Scrapers and they were fueled at the job site and oil & filter changed. They carried the drums in the back of this wood floor truck. Overtime, the floor was soaked with diesel, motor oil both new and old, but never rotted and looked like new other than a nice dark stain. The speedo was broke at 264k miles and ran great. The family farm never paid me any allowance so all money earned from working for neighbors. From hay into their barn, plowing, mowing yards or moving cattle 8-10 miles to a new pasture. It had a 283 cu in w/2 spd auto and good tires, red with Fawn dash. No A/C just heat. I grew 6″ at age 11 and already the tallest, I would get hired easy in our county. By 3AM I was up and headed to a field off the road a 1/4 mile near trees and a dry rock bottom creek. My last year of school, class didn’t start until 9:30 or 10AM. I was one to operate a new John Deere 4X4 center articulating. I started morns with headlights on the tractor to clean the air filter, ck oil, grease the center pivot and start it. Alway check oil pressure and fuel first. Raise the disc & hit 18 grease fittings. Check wheels for loose, whack them with an axe handle for air and give everything a good once over with a harry eyeball. Side mounted tool box was factory or we put it on. Alway a large chain hung in a agreed fashion & a little notch cut in the handle and box, for the axe handle.
Great article tutorial, you are so lucky living in such a nice place, I made a mix of old engine oil and white spirits to treat my shed roof because roofing felt in uk sucks, it doesn’t last 5 minutes (I’m going to use some reclaimed metal cladding) very cunning of you to think of burying the twisted section.
6:40 light poles and wire poles used to be saturated in oil. I remember hearing about when they first were used people would climb them and sit on top at night. I vaguely remember this but I think they used lanterns to see and some poles would catch fire while people were up on them? Does anyone know about this? Its way before my time
How long does it take for the posts to dry? Would it be okay to do this to wood that is exposed? Would the motor oil/diesel mix get on clothes etc. if I were to accidentally rub against it well after it’s dried? I plan to make wooden planters from some large wooden crates I have. The wood is pine and has only been indoors used for shipping glass. No part of my crates will be buried. I’m just wondering if this would be better than painting.
To keep the post from rotten for hundred of years, when you finish putting the posts in the ground take a 1 1/2 ” or 1 1/4′ drill bit and drill a hole aprox 4″ above ground level to about 6″ below ground level on a 45 Degree angel (make sure you don’t go all the way through) and fill the hole with the a 50/50 mixture of the used motor oil and fuel and plug the hole. Then after 6 months come back and remove plug and then use 100% used motor oil, and top up every 3 years or so when needed based on the dryness of the posts. A hard wood plug about 6″ is easier to remove than a soft wood plug, only put plug in about an inch or so.
I like to put gravel in the very bottom of the hole. Tamp the hole with gravel around trees, cause concrete will leach out and kill trees within ten feet. I had a metal storage building with treated 4 x 4’s and i put the 50/50 onto them and the termites still ate them. BROWN & ROOT we used that blend to spray onto our chains and pullies, trucking stuff.
Fellow Great Plains guy here… are you using Ponderosa Pine? If so, any feedback on rot after it’s been in the ground? Ponderosa is a known rotter, so curious if this works well enough to get additional years out of it. I’ve got a LOT of access to Ponderosa but haven’t used it in my projects yet since I don’t want to guinea pig myself 😉
Some years back I use to wonder how in the heck telephone poles lasted so long compared to other types of wood. I mean some of them have been there for 50+ years. Then I watched this article and I remembered years ago one time I put my hand on a telephone pole that was newly erected and I remember my hand being sticky like it had oil or thin tar on it. Now it all makes sense, I always thought it was due to them being some kind of harder wood, but now I think they were using the exact same thing as you are. Funny thing, they government will tell you “you shouldn’t put that oil on post, for the environment” all while doing exactly that when it comes to their own poles.
What size of torch are you using sir 100k BTU or ? something i just learned creosote is not available but from what inter say made from coal tar or wood so bam this is how you get some Coal Tar Versus Asphalt Based Sealcoats or may be better is the roof cement just dig around and n mix up that thinning with diesel or /
My family would set a 55gallon drum in tbe ground then stand as many post in that would fit then add old motor oil that was on hand gallon or 2 of creosote them if nessary add diesel to fill then let set 24 hrs then add more oil as the post had sucked up bunch set another 24 They set up saw horses and tin to recover what drips off back into barrel for next batch
My gramps (95 years old) and I coated our fence boards with used engine oil. I don’t recall using the diesel fuel, but it has been about 20 years ago give or take. We have not done the scorching before, but I did ask him one day if his dad did it when building log cabins. He thought he had, but did not recall details. What is the BTUs of your flamer? I am trying to decide which one I get since they range from 100,000 to 500,000.
Hi, I gave you a like because I’m happy you took the time to make this article, thanks. If I could offer some constructive criticism, you’d probably get more subscribers and views if you cut out the random scenes of digging and carrying, etc. Life is short, I found myself doing a lot of skipping around. Anyway, fwiw. Thanks again!
The char treatment actually makes a lot of sense once you think about it. It isn’t the char itself, but the heat melting the lignen in the wood and sealing off the capillary tubes. Doing a heavy char just ensures you transfered enough heat to melt the lignen a sufficient distance/depth. I’ve never tried the char trick, but even on treated posts I like to paint them with basement tar/asphalt coating a foot above and below grade (2′ total). Posts rot the fastest where air and water meet, so that helps keep them from the typical rotting in half at the soil line.
My dad has a lot of lumber on our land from tree jobs and several companies that cut down trees in peoples yards or land clearing etc. A full sized trees 20 to 30 ft long gums and pines and possibly a few oaks. We also have cutoffs from pines and oaks and such where they had to move them by hand or by climber. Any way to treat them for household use the smaller ones? Also how long can wood be use able after sitting in the open without rotting? Sorry to ask but I’d like to make something out of some of it. Was thinking of using this method for soemthing shop or outdoor related