This article provides a step-by-step guide on how to replace weather stripping on a steel exterior door. The author uses a magnetic replacement seal and a flat head screw driver to change the seal on the bottom of the door. The weatherstrip snaps into the door bottom by the barbed ribs and grooves, and the instructions call for a rubber mallet.
A common maintenance item in a home is the weatherstripping around them. When the weatherstripping around the top and sides of a door is starting to wear, replacing the door’s weather strip is an inexpensive and easy solution. The process involves measuring the door’s bottom, sides, and header, and determining which door bottom is needed.
Home centers sell either replacement kits for specific doors or units that fasten to the bottom that can be trimmed to fit the door. Some door sweeps can be easily removed, while others require the door to be removed and the sweep anchored to the door bottom. Adhesive-backed options are typically easy to apply, while door sweeps can be pulled off by hand.
In summary, replacing weather stripping around an exterior door is a simple and cost-effective solution to drafts coming from the door. The process involves removing nails or screws, measuring the door’s width, purchasing a new weather strip, and determining the door’s bottom.
📹 How to Replace Door Sweep | Fix Gap at Bottom of your Door
In this video, I show you the different types of bottom door sweeps that you can install if your door sweep is missing or broken.
What is the difference between a door bottom and a door sweep?
Frost King offers three types of weather sealing products to keep doors draft-free, comfortable, and energy bills under control. Door Sweeps, also known as Door Bottoms, are the quickest and easiest to install, attached to the bottom of entry doors or unheated areas. They come in various styles, sizes, and finishes in aluminum and wood. Door Thresholds help seal out drafts, dirt, moisture, and insects while improving the appearance of the entryway. Frost King provides a handy Home Checklist for questions about door thresholds, sweeps, and sets. For more information, visit the FAQs or call 299-5700.
Can you replace a door sweep without removing the door?
Door sweeps are essential for maintaining an air-tight entryway in your home. They help eliminate gaps between the door threshold and door, providing an air-tight seal. There are five types of door sweeps: L-shape, slide-on, snap-in, staple-on, and wrap-around. L-shape door sweeps screw into the door frame, while slide-on and snap-on sweeps don’t require removing the door. Snap-in door sweeps fit into a kerf cut at the bottom of the door, while staple-on door sweeps are made for wood doors and require removal from the frame. Wrap-around door sweeps are easy to install but usually require drilling new holes.
To install door sweeps, measure the gap between the door and the threshold, know the door width and thickness, and use a hack saw and miter box to trim the door sweep width. Attach the door sweep using the product’s required materials. Some homeowners apply adhesive or caulk along the bottom of the door to ensure an air-tight fit. Frost King offers a range of door sweep products for storm doors, metal doors, and wood doors. To ensure an air-tight fit, check back with the Frost King blog for tips on home maintenance and follow them on Facebook and Twitter.
Frost King has everything you need to protect your entryway from extreme weather. You can find their products at home improvement retailers and contact them for questions about installing and using any of their DIY home improvement products. However, the information provided is for educational and informational purposes only and Frost King does not assume responsibility for any actions taken based on the information provided or any consequences resulting therefrom.
How do you replace the seal on the bottom of an exterior door?
Determine the door bottom needed. Slide-on sweeps come in different designs and come in different designs. Remove the existing door bottom and cut the new sweep to length if needed. Slide on the new sweep. If the door sweep fits loosely, apply adhesive or caulk between the sweep and the door’s bottom.
Select the snap-in door bottoms. These come in different designs and have kerfs cut in the door’s bottom for the sweep to lock into. Match the profiles of the kerfs. Remove the existing door bottom and cut the new sweep to length. Snap or push the new door sweep onto the door’s bottom.
Choose the wrap-around or “L-Type” door bottoms. These sweeps fit different door thicknesses, with most exterior doors being 1-3/4″ thick. Remove the screws on the existing door bottom, cut the new door bottom to length, position the new door bottom onto the door, close the door, adjust the door bottom as needed, and apply new screws to hold the door bottom in place.
What are the three types of door weather stripping?
Weather stripping options include plain or reinforced felt weatherstrip, metal weatherstripping, V-Strips, plastic, aluminum, and stainless steel door sweeps, foam tape from EPDM rubber or closed-cell foam, and rubber weather stripping. Felt weatherstripping, made from cotton, polyester, and wool, is the most common type and is typically applied using glue, staples, and tacks. It is commonly used for windows and doors’ jambs and is commonly found in stores sold in rolls.
What is the weatherstripping on the bottom of a door called?
A door sweep is a weather-resistant barrier installed at the bottom of a door panel, while an astragal covers the seam between two door panels and prevents wind and water from entering the house. Transoms are narrow windows located above doors or windows, often hinged at the top like an awning window. SDL bars, which rest on the surface of glass, are a popular choice due to their strength, cost-effectiveness, and energy efficiency.
What is the seal at the bottom of a door called?
Sills are the bottom part of a door frame, sealing and fastening to the floor. They are only found on exterior doors leading to the outdoors or garages. This door parts glossary can be helpful for those looking for a new door or repairing an existing one. It breaks down the technical terms and components of a door, making it easier to choose the right door for your project. The door frame consists of side jambs, head jambs, and mulls.
Residential door frames are typically made of wood, aluminum, fiberglass, or composite materials. They can be primed or ordered with a factory finish in various colors. Understanding these basic parts can help you choose the right door for your project.
How to weatherstrip the bottom of a door?
Weather stripping is a simple and effective way to protect your home from drafts and reduce energy costs in winter. It is essential to replace the weather stripping under your door when it becomes dry, cracked, or starts to peel off. If using a stick-on foam or felt product, remove the backing that covers the adhesive and press it firmly against the bottom of the door, ensuring proper alignment before securing it.
This quick and easy project can save on energy and eliminate drafts. Home improvement specialist Jacob Pischer and handyman Lui Colmenares provide expert tips and tips for installing a new weather strip on the bottom of your front door.
How do you replace the sweep on the bottom of a door?
To install a weatherstripping door seal strip, measure the door width, mark and cut the bottom sweep to length, drill pilot holes, loosely attach with screws, and tighten the screws. This seals gaps between the door and threshold, saving energy on heating and cooling, and protecting against moisture, dust, and insects. There are two main types: U-shaped door seals for aluminum or steel doors, and metal strips that screw, nail, or staple to the door bottom.
What is the strip at the bottom of an exterior door called?
Sill. Sills are the bottom component of a door frame. They are the part of the door that gets sealed and fastened to the floor. Only exterior doors (those that lead to the outdoors or garages) have sills.
Are you shopping for a new door, or is there a door in your home that needs repairing? You could benefit from this door parts glossary.
If you’re embarking on a door replacement or new build project and you’re overwhelmed with all the technical terms, we’ve got you covered. This post breaks down all the parts of a door so you can understand the terminology and how all the parts and pieces come together. Understanding the basic parts of a door makes it easier to talk with contractors and dealers to choose the right door for your project.
Door frame. Side jambs, head jambs, and mulls are the parts that make up the frame. Residential door frames are most often made of wood but can also be made of aluminum, fiberglass, or a composite material. Door frames can be purchased primed (ready to paint) or ordered with a factory finish in a variety of colors.
How to fix a gap at the bottom of an exterior door?
A door sweep can be used to fix gaps between the bottom of the front door and the threshold, providing extra protection from dirt, bugs, moisture, and wind. This can save on utilities, prevent the outdoors from entering, and seal the door from top to bottom. To find the right tools, shop for the right products and subscribe to our newsletter for the latest product selections and DIY solutions.
Can you replace weather stripping on exterior door?
The door is removed, the old seal is cut to length, a new sweep is installed, and the old seal is trimmed and reinstalled.
📹 How to Replace Seal on Bottom of Door – Keep Cold Air & Bugs Out!
This DIY tutorial video will show you how to replace a door bottom weather seal that has gone bad. This is a kerf style door bottom …
My sweeps just came in the mail today. Since I was able to slip the old ones out, I thought I’d try slipping the new ones in. That only worked about halfway, and then I couldn’t force them in any further. So I pulled them out, and tried pressing them in place. Worked like a charm. The only fly in the ointment was that I didn’t position it carefully, so had to finish up by tapping it carefully from the end, and it slid right in. Perfect fit, lengthwise as well. Repeated that with the second door, except that I positioned it more carefully, and skipped trying to slide it in. Gotta get lucky once in a while. Each one took about five minutes. Might be worth trying this before you go to the trouble of taking the door off the hinges. And now I’m going to buy a spare set of sweeps, since I already know these fit, and they might not be there when I need to replace these. Noticed in the article that someone had possibly put a dab of silicone on the end of the old sweep. That would complicate things. Not saying anyone could do what I did—each situation is unique. But if it doesn’t work, you could always take the door off the hinges at that point.
Door Sweeps, and weatherstripping are on the shopping list for the next time we’re in town. lol Thank you so much for reminding me to check our doors, they’re overdue, and with the cost of utilities nowadays, it’s cheaper to maintain your home than contribute to your utilities bill by not doing the maintenance required.
I did this a few years back including the weather stripping. It is so worth it to have a nice tuned up door that closes with a seal. This article would have been handy at the time but it turned out I was able to get OEM replacements for mine that just screwed right in like the old ones. That said, sometimes there will be a sticker in your jamb that might have some helpful information. But I would wager most the time there isn’t, doesn’t hurt to look though. Great article. 🙂
I watched this article before I did this. It’s very helpful. My 36″front exterior door looks exactly like the one shown here. It has a kerf sweep. I’m in Chicago and we have Menards. They sell the exact product needed “Bottom Door Seal Replacement Kerf Sweep” by MD (Home Depot does not carry this product). It fits perfectly and the 36″ already comes notched on both ends to fit right into two grooves. We just pulled out the old sweep and gently tapped the new one into the tracks/grooves. You can’t just try to slam the kerfs into the grooves anywhere. Start at one end ( we had the door leaning on its side on a wall so it’s vertical) and slowly tapped the kerfs into the grooves from top to bottom with a thin piece of wood. It’s like putting down tape. You don’t stick it in the middle and try to adjust the ends after. We worked our way down from one end to the other and the kerfs started to align themselves into the grooves. We did all this in our foyer and it took maybe 30 minutes from unhooking the door to putting in a new sweep. Another one took an hour because it had retractable hinges and the screws were damaged so it took longer to take off the door hinges than to put in a new kerf sweep. It’s not as hard as it seems and the doors are actually not that heavy. I removed the front exterior door by myself and I’m not even a big guy. Good luck!
This article triggered my PTSD (sorry for exaggerating) but what should have been an easy fix took me three years to complete. The builder of my old house decided to use special doors by Pella… It was not a standard size but it looked really nice. The entry rug was short but not short enough and after a few years the sweep was ruined. I went to a Pella dealer and they helped me find the model number in the jamb and how to submit the order. Great! Simple enough, but I was wrong. The sweep that came was 2 inches too short. Went through that a few more times. But over 30 email exchanges and maybe 20 calls I did get the correct sweep. When I took the door off I was greeted by an army of ants that built a colony in the door because there was no sweep for so long. I’m talking 1,300 ants easily. I was able to eradicate the ants and install the sweep with success. So happy once that ordeal was over!
Cut the sides off the inserts to make them fit the smaller kerf! It’s also important to make sure the slope of that L-shaped bottom goes down toward the outside, so water can drain! Door bottoms that have a U or otherwise don’t drain are BAD NEWS for exterior doors because they can hold water in and lead to rot.
Thanks for article, sometimes this can be harder than it should be, my junky fiberglass doors only had an 1/8″ strip of deteriorating door bottom material to nail into, the rest was styrofoam with a petite wooden frame on the extremities. No way I could nail into it without breaking it so I pre-drilled and used screws. I wanted to replace that thin material since it was deteriorating but I couldn’t figure out what it was, it looked like some sort of waterproofed masonite type material. The thin wooden frame was also heavily deteriorated so there wouldn’t have been much to attach the new marterial to. I see new doors in my not too distant future 🙁 I think you’ve got the drip fin facing the wrong way on that door sweep. IIRC the vertical 90 degree elbow part should be facing inwards. It probably doesn’t matter on yours since you’ve got a storm door.
Thanks for making this article. My brother and I watched this article and we were able to replace the concealed door sweep using all of your methods and tips. Thanks for displaying a variety of door sweeps so that after removing the sweep from my door we knew exactly what type to purchase to replace the sweep. Also, your article quality, sound, and camera angle placement allowed us to see exactly what you were doing. Thanks again.
I used stainless steel wood screws on both sides of the bottom trim piece, and spaced the screws six inches apart. This allowed a firm grim on the door base, with no potential movement. The door manufacturer had used staples which rusted out over the years. The staples coming loose shortened the life of the seal.
this is my second time to watch this article. I just want to say that you are my favorite website for home repair and remodeling. It’s so nice to have someone who is working on a nice, normal house with a little age on it like mine, who can show me what is being done without a lot of pointless edits or hyped up energy, and who isn’t selling me something. When I need to fix or replace something in my house I go straight to you so you can show me how to do it. Thank you so much for being there!
At 3:54 you show that extending that cover to get cover the gap between the door and the frame risks hitting your foot. Makes sense, but wouldn’t you need to extend all the options you showed to cover that space? I ask because I’m replacing a U-shaped sweep with a new one and noticed this light gap with both the old & new ones. The existing door has compression weather stripping on the outside. But I still see light coming through in the bottom corner. Curious if you have thoughts on whether the door sweep should ever be larger than the door.
I’m doing this for a regular room door not an exterior outdoor door like this, it’s a bedroom wood door; I have a door but there is a gap, causing draft and wind and noise, I want to close the gap, I thought of doing exactly what you did in the article, but I also thought of just getting a piece of wood trimmed to right size in thickness and length to cover the gap and attach it to the bottom of the door with the same nails you did at the end here in this article, which do you think will provide better draft and wind and noise coverage? This door sweep you did here, or a wood piece?
Thank you very much for this article. I was getting all kinds of stuff in my house and could not figure out why. I took a look at the botttoms of my door and discover huge gaps on two of my doors. After perusal you article, I went with the slide on version and they are working great. Thank you again, much appreciated.
I used the stick on type at an apartment we stayed at a couple months, the thing didn’t last a week. It was off so quick. the floor was uneven and in parts it would drag but in any other position it would not seal at all. The door jam was the lowest part of the floor apparently. Being it was an apartment and we did have rights in our contract to do our own repairs or updates I really didn’t want to be taking the door off the hinges and didn’t feel like bothering the management about it. We were only on a short month to month lease while our house was being finished thanks to the person that bought our old house breaking our contract and asking us to move out before it was ready.
Very cool article. I did this for my basement door, actually did more, because I also needed a new threshold. The old one was rotted. I found both parts at Lowes, exactly what I had. I notice your Craftsman flat head screwdriver. I have the exact same one, have used it for many years. I even use it to open oysters in the shell. Perfect for that! My wife is Korean and loves fresh oysters. We buy maybe 30 every week.
What happened to engineering? This weather strip setup on a door is one of the worst designs. Taking a door off to add on such a cheap piece of you know what is not worth the time and effort. Not to mention all the possible complications: First, The bottom door hinge could be too close to the floor to use hammer to get the pin out. Second, when you do the hammering, you could mess up your door paint or hit your hand. Last but not the least, Where do you even put down the door, not everyone has a place to set it down. What a joke in this design. Your article is good though. I used a slide in which saved me a lot of trouble.
My front door sweep was damaged when the door was removed for a fridge delivery. Discovered it was a metal sweep that fit into the door jam, now the metal strip is bent and unseated. That explains the years of drafty air, there was never an airtight seal. We used a rolled up blanket every winter. This winter I tried the stick on sweep. It lasted 4 months but worked well. I had to remove the area rug because the sweep was close to the floor. It really blocked air flow. Now I’m going to get a handyman to add the universal sweep. My screen door also needs a new sweep. Looks like there’s a website at the bottom of that door for weatherstrip. Small improvements that can increase comfort tremendously. Oh, a warning about the slide on sweeps, they can hold moisture against the door bottom, causing damage and encouraging bugs.
I bought a threshold with adjustable whatever it’s called. Got it installed then took rhe cap off and found the aluminum adjuster screws were already destroyed and unusable. Since I glued it and sealed it I wasn’t going to rip it out buy another so I went to Home Depot to inquire and they said they stopped supplying that heavy duty threshold. Well because I could adjust it the door sweep that needed to be replaced doesn’t fit. I tried the adhesive version it didn’t last. Did a slide on one that caused compression against the insulation trim so that didn’t work. So I was inclined to close the door and sprayed small gap foam filler waited til it dried and trimmed. But like in your article if I had the good threshold I would done the replacement you did. With modifications as needed. Your article was helpful although I had to make my own air gap stopper.
nice to learn & watch as always. does remind me though that i need to fix the screen/glass door out front since it keeps leaving this 1/4 in gap on the side because for reasons my cat cannot stop himself from pushing at the door every time we go outside. aka probably need to like, put a screw in, but still
Wow. 1st, tap the hinge pins out, don’t remove the screws holding the hinges to the jamb. It’s way easier to put the door back on when yer done. 2nd. Do that BEFORE removing the old seal, it’s WAY easier to do on the saw horses or bench. 3rd. The kerf website is designed so the seals slide in and out. Don’t pry the old one out. 4th. DO NOT staple, nail, glue or in any other way secure the seal to the door. The kerf website fits tight enough the seal won’t move AND if you nail or staple it then it no longer slides in and out of the kerf website making it difficult to replace next time.