Paint cracking and peeling on walls or ceilings can be caused by various factors, including the use of paint with lower adhesion and flexibility properties, over-thinning or over-painting, and structural damage. To fix these issues, it is essential to identify which one is causing the problem and take steps to repair it.
For internal walls, a soft sheen paint is the most suitable product. If the affected area is over wallpaper, remove the paper and start again. For thin, long, relatively straight cracks running in a singular direction on a previously stained wood surface, use solutions from Sherwin-Williams.
Blistering and flaking are common causes of mud cracking, especially when applying a thick, heavy, unthinned coat of paint to textured or embossed surfaces like blown vinyl wallpapers or pebbledash. Applying a primer coat of paint can seal in tiny cracks and prevent them from expanding into gaping crevices that invite water penetration.
If caught early, superficial cracking can be corrected by removing loose or flaking paint with a scraper or wire brush, sanding to feather the edges, and performing a paint sealant.
To address structural damage, it is important to identify the length and size of the wall crack and follow step-by-step instructions for paint on the ceiling, streaks, blotchiness, and more. If the wall has a minor crack, fill it with caulk, thin the paint with water for the new coat, and remove any dust from sanding first.
For textured walls, it is crucial to prime the wall first before applying paint. Applying a paint sealant can help prevent water from weakening the paint’s ability to stick to the wall.
📹 How to fix a crack in a wall or ceiling – DIY
This is how to fix a crack in your wall or ceiling the easy way. This is a very common problem with a simple repair. I will show you …
How do you hide imperfections in texture paint?
To conceal wall flaws with textured paint, choose a roller with the desired texture, either smooth or textured. Textured paints have a rough texture that hides imperfections, making them look subtly different. Use a brush to paint the wall and learn about using traditional texture, adding texture with home items, and preparing the wall before painting.
Before applying paint to a damaged wall, clean the surface by removing dust, pet hair, or other grime. Use a vacuum or shop-vac to vacuum up spider webs or dirt, use a damp rag to wipe down the wall, and use soap or vinegar to remove any substantial dirt or scum. By learning about traditional texture, adding texture with home items, and knowing how to prepare the wall before painting, you can better hide wall flaws with textured paint.
Is it OK to paint over cracked paint?
Prior to repainting, it is essential to remove any cracks or flaking paint to guarantee a smooth and long-lasting finish. It is essential to identify and rectify any issues with paint adhesion to guarantee that the newly painted surfaces will retain their aesthetic appeal for an extended period of time.
How do you fix crazing?
To prevent crazing in pottery, lower the firing temperature and avoid adding extra silica or sand to the clay body. To correct crazing, change to a different clay body that better fits the glaze, add silica to the existing clay body, or increase the firing temperature. Commercial clay bodies often have silica added to prevent crazing. In stoneware, silica sand can help prevent crazing, while in earthenware, bisque firing to a higher temperature can eliminate crazing.
To increase silica and clay, reduce the ratio of clay to silica, add nepheline syenite or lithium carbonate, substitute high-alkaline frit for borate frit, apply glaze thickly, and increase firing temperature.
How to fix cracked paint on textured walls?
To repair a cracked painted wall, the first step is to clean the affected area, remove any loose debris, and apply a patching compound or spackle. Once this has dried, the surface should be sanded lightly, and a second layer may be applied if necessary. Ultimately, the area in question should be repainted in order to achieve an aesthetically pleasing and seamless integration with the surrounding wall.
How to get rid of painted textured walls?
The soak-and-scrape method is a simple method to remove texture from walls. Spray a section with water, let it soak in, and then use a drywall taping knife to scrape off the texture. This method is best for unpainted walls as paint prevents water from saturating the textured joint compound. Paneling can be installed over textured walls, depending on personal preference and the type of paneling, such as board-and-batten, shiplap, or wainscoting.
How do you remove bad texture from walls?
To remove texture from textured walls, two methods can be used: soak and scrape or apply a skim coat. Soak and scrape is the most effective method when walls have never been painted. Applying a skim coat smooths out textured painted walls by covering the texture in a joint compound. Textured walls have been popular in home design for years to add character and hide drywall imperfections. However, some textured walls, like popcorn or orange peel, have seen their popularity decline, and many homeowners now prefer a more modern look. Removing texture from walls can be messy and expensive to hire a professional. To tackle this task, follow these two simple methods and learn how to remove texture from your home’s walls.
Can I paint over crazing?
Cracking and crazing of matt emulsions can be a common issue on the Decorators Forum UK. The main cause is when a glossy, flexible matt emulsion, such as silk, is applied over a shinier paint, such as wallpaper paste. The shiny emulsion absorbs moisture from the new paint and expands, while the matt paint is not very flexible and dries first. As the silk dries again, it contracts and pulls the surface of the matt, causing cracking and crazing.
Matt emulsions are more susceptible to cracking and crazing, with contract or vinyl matt emulsions being the only ones that will craze. Retail matt emulsions are particularly bad due to their lack of polymer binder in their formula, making them less flexible. To fix the issue, give the cracked paint a little sand down, apply two thick coats of Peel stop, and allow it to dry before painting with the matt.
How to fix wall imperfections after painting?
To fix paint drips, use a paint scraper and sand the area until smooth. Patch the area if necessary, but be cautious as it may remove underlying paint. Clean the area with a damp cloth and then paint. Use clear window cleaner or nail polish to remove a spot, as latex paint will start to come off. If sanding doesn’t work, skim the wall with drywall compound or patching material before sanding.
How do you fix bad paint texture?
In order to clean a wall, it is first necessary to lightly sand the area with 150-grit sandpaper. This should be followed by the wiping of the surface with a cloth in order to remove any residual dust. It is recommended that the area be repainted with a wet edge, and that the paint be kept wet until the wall is finished. This approach is beneficial in instances where JavaScript is disabled or obstructed by an extension, or when a browser lacks the capability to support cookies.
How do you fix paint crazing on walls?
To fix cracked or flaking paint, use a scraper or wire brush to remove loose or flaking paint, sand the area to feather the edges, prime bare spots, and repaint the surface. If cracking goes down to the substrate, remove as much existing paint as possible using methods like scraping, sanding, heat gun, or abrasive blasting. Once most paint is removed, prime and repaint with a quality latex paint. Prevent paint from cracking by applying paint to properly sanded, cleaned, and primed surfaces, never painting over cracked paint, and allowing paint to dry thoroughly before adding another coat. Remember, scraping, sanding, or removing old paint can release toxic lead dust, which can cause serious illness, especially in children and pregnant women.
Can I just paint over textured walls?
Priming is crucial for painting over textured walls as it helps in adhesion and acts as an initial coat. A deep-pile roller is used to cover tricky spaces. Painting over textured walls requires more paint than smooth surfaces, so it is recommended to purchase twice as much paint as usual. Apply generously and plan for two coats total.
Some areas may not blend with the rest of the wall, but this is normal. Take the time to examine the initial results in different lighting setups and angles. If you miss anything or notice any area is lacking, use leftover paint to touch up those spots. This ensures a smoother surface and prevents paint from running out during the process.
📹 How to repair drywall cracks on textured walls. #diy #drywallrepair #howto #handyman
I’ve been a remodeling contractor in NorCal for 40 years. Your article shows that no matter how much you think you may know about the trade, there’s always more to learn! Thanks for the tip about running a line perpendicular to the main crack to end the repair – I’ll be using that technique on the next ceiling crack I have to deal with!
Excellent job. That was a good demo. Simple, easy and well executed. Most residents encounter such nuisance, and now they have a simple solution to try. I am facing such a problem and I tried fixing it without the tape and probably the repair did not last long because I was unaware of this simple technique. Thanks Bill, wishing you good health… 👍
Echo some of the other comments here – this is an excellent no-nonsense DIY article. I’ve tried to fix cracks before. Whilst I thought of opening the crack out I didn’t think of ‘terminating’ the end of the crack or using the tape. I’m off to get those cracks sorted. On a related note, I’ve noticed that when I repainted a ceiling it seemed to cause what looks like tape to start to peel away from the ceiling, thus creating a crack/gap. Note sure its tape or the paper covering of the plasterboard – ever seen this?
Brilliant and easy to follow article. Thank you so much. I have watched other article’s on YouTube how to repair ceiling cracks this is the best. Thank you! Have purchased all items required as I have the same crack. My husband has terminal pancreatic cancer and is too sick to do this. I have watched your article 3 times and will watch prior to attempting this myself. Kindest thoughts to you and your family and Furbabies from Victoria
Thank you for showing such an easy step by step problem solving process for a novice like me . I’ve watched your other articles on how to repair a peeling ceiling and am now confident to try and fix it myself! And as a mother and carer of 3 children, two of them with special needs, I really couldn’t afford to pay a painter to do it so Thank you !!!
That’s great! I think I might be able to do that. BTW, that trick with cutting across the crack is similar to something done on airplanes. If plastic cracks (say a wing fairing or something like that), the mechanic will drill a small hole at the end of the crack. That usually prevents the crack from propagating any further. So what you did is a good practice.
The end of the crack has infinite stress, which is why the crack will continue. Try to find the end of the crack then drill a hole at the end instead of the cross cut, which is better than nothing, but a hole is the best. This dissipates the stress along the circumference of the crack, and prevents the crack from continuing. Doesn’t need to be a large hole – 5 or 6 mm drill would be fine and easy to patch up. Great repair and article.
No patch material used will stop the house from moving. You will be repairing it the next year or 2. Tell the customer this from the start, if you are reputable and guarantee your work. The crack in this article will 100% reappear. If the ceiling is textured, you can clean out the joint as done here then just caulk the joint with a Paintable, Flexible caulk and paint over it if the caulk doesn’t match the ceiling color. If the ceiling is on the transition between a hall and an open room, add a header & drywall both sides for a permanent fix. You could also use a decorative styrofoam fake beam or a foah beam. For wall cracks in an open concept house with walls taller than 12ft, I have successfully fixed these by cutting out a 4×8 area and hanging a new piece of drywall only attaching it to the wall around the perimeter of the new drywall piece, letting the wall freely move behind the drywall.
If at all possible, try getting in to the ceiling space and backblocking by putting some glue or plaster over a 200mm by 400mm piece of plasterboard and placing over the back of where the crack appeared. Will be a much stronger long term fix especially if movement was the causing issue. Also I personally wouldn’t recommend mesh tape for this, I’d be using fibafuse, which is more of a dense weave of fibreglass tape. If you really want to go all out, try scratching the paint of the area the you will be plastering and prepping it by painting thinned out pva glue over the area… helps the plaster stick to the paint.
I love everything except that you didn’t refasten the Sheetrock, and I strongly prefer paper tape. In my opinion, from 30 years of experience in drywall repair, the chances that the fasteners either, failed or were not properly installed to begin with is ver high. It’s best to refasten prior to any mud work. Secondly, you have to understand that in the majority of cases when you’re making a Sheetrock patch the new tape and mud will be the high spots which means you need to float out from the center of the patch with a 12 inch knife on each side of the stress crack in order to reduce the visibility of the high point. Well made article and good advice for a homeowner but if you’re doing this work for a customer I would strongly suggest you head my advice.
Great article, Bill…thanks for posting it. I may have a better solution for stopping the crack based on years working as an aircraft mechanic mitigating windscreen cracks. The issue is that the drywall (or windscreen) is stressed beyond where the crack ends, so the crack has already potentially continued past that point. I would drill a 1/4″ hole at the visible end of the crack making a larger gap between what is already cracked and what is stressed. I am currently renovating an old house with it’s share of stress cracks and will be using your method of patching. Thanks
You wore this amateur out, but now I know to get that 10 inch blade out, and put on the third coat. All those cracks need opened up too. I have a lot of work left to do. One 12 x 9 foot wall had 13 pieces of drywall on it and a couple places without wood under one side of the joint. I just flooded the low side and plan on a good tape job and wide float, to hide the mess. At 73 years of age I don’t need to do it right… to much work. Besides there’s another 35′ by 9′ wall, ….and above the garage door. This ain’t the Garage Mahal… 5 star article. Thanks.
A few secrets of the trade… 1. If you want to speed up the process use cornice cement/basecoat 45 and add a sprinkle of gypsum to the mix ( will go off in 5 minutes) 2. Get the scraper instead of tapping it in with your hands run the scrapper along the tape it will go into the mud nicely. 3. In ten minutes you can literally do the second coat, wait till it goes firm, doesnt need to be fully dry 4. Use a hair dryer or heat gun to speed up the process even faster (be weary of the heat gun not to be so close) 5. Skim coat will be minnimal and will dry very quick. Add some gypsum to your fine finish top coat to go off faster aswell.. 6. You can even finish with cornice cement or base coat because they are ceilings and the paint is flat especially in areas where theres not much light. 7. Level each coat with the scrapper as its still wet but firm, ( it will shave off nicely like butter) that way save you time sanding in betweeen coats, dont have to sand and create dust. 8. Level and ramp the edges as smoothly to the gyprock as possible, that way not much sanding is required at all. 8. When finished use a vac sander. 9. If edges are done well and you dont have sand paper, you can even use a wet rag to smooth off the edges.
Im faced with the identical issue. As you mentioned, never knew that this was a common problem. Thanks for the tip of getting the repair done right the first time. It was a great article, and I will follow all the steps you went over to perform the repair of my ceiling. Thanks Bill, and good luck 🤞 with your future projects!
Thoroughly explained! You answered the questions that were popping in my head as you applied the fix. No shortcuts on the article as you apply the fix, it really goes from start to finish. I would appreciate knowing which brands of product you are using: the coater, the tape, etc. for us super-amateurs. Will donate!
Nice job, Bill. Especially making sure those cracks are filled with mud. That’s really important. One trick I do if the ceiling has a rough or textured surface is to grab a large moist sponge and soften the edges of the joint compound/mud and blend it in a little bit. We always use hot mud/20 minute mud with mesh tape for the first coat per the manufacturers recommendation. Most of our cracks in earthquake country are around doors and windows. lol.
When using a wide trowel, look down the edge for natural curvature in the blade. For first coat, have the convexity of the blade against the ceiling. That allows for a bit of height or thickness over the tape. For your second and third coats flip the knife over and use the concave side against the ceiling.
I like the idea of scoring the end of the crack to stop it progressing further. The trouble is the scoring at the end isn’t very deep, so it will be of limited use. A better method might be to drill a small hole at the end of the crack, making sure it goes through the entire plasterboard. I’ve never tried it myself but might give it a go in future. iT looks a very nice job though, so thanks!
Cracks in gib board appear when there is movement between the joints, for example the house contracting and expanding between seasonal change or just age. In my experience with renos, depending on whether there is a ceiling batten or something solid above the Crack. My tip in prep to never have the Crack appear again is to put a few gib screws one each side of the Crack and repeat every 300mm. This will definitely anchor the two sheets together.
before putting on the next coat i always sand the affected area. also i´d go thinner and much wider with every new coat. The result will be a surface that looks a lot finer and more egalized. When i create real 100% smooth walls for my customers i put on Knauf Uniflott Finish on the whole wall (ready mix). Afterwards is use a drywall sander with a grinding grid (corn 400) on low speed for the final touch. Put primer on…. paint (using a highly pigmented with color with a long open time)!
The chances of retracting are very high, plus the ceiling is now no longer flat,it has been built down. It’s a much better/stronger fix to do it properly by gouging out the Crack to 55-60mm,then using PAPER TAPE. Three tight coats,job done. Scrapping out cracked joints with a tungsten scrapper is slow hard work,but worth doing. (watch for nails)
This article came across my suggestions and I’m hooked, I have a similar crack, I began trying to get it started but my ceiling is textured and decided to leave it alone, lol, your article has given me the confidence to finish the job, I’ll have to figure out how to get the texture to match, I’ve glanced at several of your articles and I’m shocked and relieved at how many apply to the list I’ve got that need to get done! OMG, I’m hooked, thank you thank you thank you!
Nice vid but if you use paper tape it’s 6 time stronger then mesh tape. Yes I know you have to apply filler 1st so a bit more messing about but it won’t fail again unless you have house movement I was a taper & jointer for 30 years and have seen mesh tape fail a lot so much in fact a lot a dry line firms wont use mesh.
That looks quicker than the method (from a builder friend) I used on my ceilings. This was: scrape out the cracks to nearly half an inch depth using a triangle scraper; two applications of PVA adhesive into the grooves (no tape); two applictions of normal Polyfilla, smoothing with an orbital sander after each application; repeat previous step with Fine Surface Polyfilla, repeating until the surface is smooth as a mirror (usually three applications of FSP needed). The house had been occupied by a pipe smoker so I then applied two coats of diluted PVA to seal in the yellow stains before applying the paint. I did that throughout the house in 1987 and only a few hairline cracks have reappeared to date.
That crack will come back. It’s caused by truss uplift, as evident that it occurs at the column which holds down the drywall however the rest of the ceiling is lifting due to truss uplift. This occurs during winter, and is the reason why drywall should float and not be nailed at ceiling/drywall intersections. You may want to google “causes of truss uplift” to learn more. Cheers.
Great article. Nice and flush no bump over the joint. With wind pressure exerted on the ceiling, movement and settlement the crack may re-appear. I would have strengthened the ceiling structure above over the crack with extra fixing through the ceiling board as extra measure. Your workmanship is top drawer.
I also like to scrape out little circles every every 3” or so on each side of the crack and drill drywall screws in there. Most likely it’s cracking where 2 plasterboards are meeting. And there’s normally a good chance that one of the boards has separated a little from the joist and needs to be put back in place. But at the end of the day i think a lot of crack repairs have an element of luck about them.
Man did a fantastic job in patching this up, but as a Licensed Home Inspector, I will say if you have these cracks I HIGHLY recommend you get a contractor to look at them before you cover them up. Active cracks (looks like lightening bolts) are a sign of separation somewhere within the home. If its on the ceiling it coulld be from a bad paint mixture, water damage (usually from AC ducts) or in dire situation a shift in the house. If its on the wall it could be the footing are moved or also water build up.
This way to mend the crack will certainly generate bow shape due to tape thickness and two or three coats of joint compound along the tape. I think the best way is to chisel off the plaster materials on both sides of the crack wide enough to accommodate the mesh tape. Sandwich the tape with the compound and sand the area level to the whole board panel after totally drying.
Bill Thanks for making this article i have a crack in my drywall and perusal you explain how to tackle the problem in easy straight forward easy to understand language i feel confident in tackling this problem…..it maybe an old article to you but its the right article at the right time for me and i think many others in the future
(Verse 1) I’m fixing a hole where the rain gets in And stops my mind from wandering Where it will go (Verse 2) I’m filling the cracks that ran through the door And kept my mind from wandering Where it will go (Verse 4) I’m taking the time for a number of things That weren’t important yesterday And I still go Ooh, ooh, ooh, ah, ah
that crack will come back the mesh tape will crack if the house moves and it will i have seen it the easy tape they call i is crap should be baned im a plasterer and i have fixed these cracks from diy using the mesh tape use paper tape or the best is blue board tape for out side rendering its mesh same as he used but it is a hell of a lot thicker and stronger it wont crack ilke the plaster one
If I can make a couple of suggestions. I was a drywall contractor for over 30 years with loads of experience from installing drywalling and taping new homes to renovating and fixing plaster finishes. Cracks appear because of some movement which is why adding some more screws into the joists around the crack will prevent this from reoccurring. While your technique is spot on, the first coat if using mesh tape should be either be durabond or sheetrock. The powder can easily be mixed by hand for small areas to create a smooth paste which will be stronger than simple drywall compound. The final two coats can be using the regular drywall compound as it is easy to sand and polish. This will guarantee the problem is permanently fixed.
what was the filler compound you used? how thick was the tape and do we need to find a crack tap or will standard dry lining tape be ok? what grade sand paper did you use? if you put a straight edge against the repair will you see 3mm concave shape? great article. thank you. we live in a 1923 house, 101 years after building, expect some cracks!! or dont buy the house 😂
New to your website. Cool article. Once that crack is open, I like to run a bead of caulk into the crack approximately filling it 90%. then I mud it using drywall tape. Preferably 3 coats of mud. Clean, Sand, prime, paint . Cheers! One incredible painting tool that everyone must see and need is the Richard 2 1/2 gooseneck flexible paint brush extension. Absolutely genius. Amazon top choice 4.6 Star. 1,300 reviews. YouTube articles gooseneck paint brush. 👍
Hey Bill I see this article is a year old but man I wished you could come help me do some rooms in my 1876 home. I am a diy’er and I am going to attempt skim coating in one of my upstairs rooms. My husband passed away 7 yrs ago from brain cancer at age 60. I was 54. Darn I miss him helping with all things house. I need you as my clone lol !!! Nice work ! Well done✌️✌️✌️
With this information I repaired cracks on my house (walls cracks). House is almost 100 years old and cracks appeared after major renovations, because I filled the curvature of the walls in a hurry, which later made cracks on some walls painting. If you have curved walls, instead of using broad trowels one has to opt for smaller tools. Thank you very much, the repair succeeded splendidly.
Thank you for this article. I have a pesky crack that we’ve actually paid a pro to repair. By filling with mud, then doing a textured knock down finish. It came back in 6 months, not huge, but cracked through the texture like someone drew a pencil line. Any thoughts on how we fix this time? I tried using my finger and mud to push into the crack ever so slightly, but now I have a bulge line it seems in the texture and crack has also returned ….help?
I just typed in on how to repair cracks on walls, I thought it was something a professional would do, of course, I don’t have that kind of money but looking at your how to articles, i gained the confidence that I COULD DO THIS MYSELF. Thank you for the vids. I’ve learned and am confident. There is a crack that runs horizontally from one end of my kitchen wall from the opening that leads to little hallway, the crack runs, then runs from there to the next wall horizontally. I just want to know if i should treat it and do exactly what you showed to repair cracks? or is it something different like shoddy sheet rock work?
all that effort to use fiber tape. As a professional drywaller of 18 years. Two major reasons why things crack are because bad joint layout in the drywall boarding end and fiber tapes. Next would be settling, but settling can usually be fixed on the boarding end. This needs to be addressed, or the crack will just come back in 6-12 months later. Usually, when coating the tape, you want to go the direction of the tape, not perpendicular (unless on a curved wall than you always coat with the curve). Using a sanding sponge also helps, and you have no high spots if you sanded first between coats and had a more likely a successful being finished on the second coat. Feathering the edges on all coats helps, too. I would give the advice 6.5/10. the result is fine, but I feel the crack will come back (If I had to guess, you have a stress point with a joint landing with the stress point instead of spanning. (I would have cut the whole crack out and put a whole new piece of board because the crack came from the edge of the post, so I am 99.9999999999% sure there is a joint there and vibrations there is what is causing the crack) in the future though. You used fiber tape as opposed to paper tape, and the coating did work, but there is an easier way.
Paper tape every time people,35yrs I’ve been fixing these, mesh is for plastering over and useless for this,that crack will be back in months, but with paper tape it won’t return,but if it does it will take years, but remember it’s cracked for a reason and until you sort the reason it will never go away…. hope that helps a few DIY rs…
That’s exactly how you do it, my supposed great worker of a stepfather wanted to resurface half house and did so without putting in any bands to joint the plasterboards, just some paste before covering the walls and ceilings in roughcast (not sure these are the correct English words) and painting straight over it. Behold one year later there were cracks everywhere… Looked online for 5 minutes and saw a fix similar to this, did it myself over the whole house, took me days since i’m no builder, it’s been 5 years and it only cracked around the fireplace. Cost me almost nothing meanwhile he ran left and right asking for quotes and they all were in the thousands. Online advice saved us tens of thousands of € in the months i’ve worked on my mother’s house after this guy tried doing everything on the cheap by himself.
So I have a tool that I got for my dad with a tear drop head. It’s probably from the 1920s from my grampa. Drywall guy saw me using it while working on a window restoration. The guy apparently recognized the tool and offered me a hundred bucks for it. Nope best 20 on the planet for repair of drywall or plaster and works great on windows
I had a crack in my ceiling that I had paid a pro four times (different people) to fix. It came back every time. I finally decided to tackle it myself about six years ago and it has never come back. I used the gouge out method except I took out about a quarter inch all the way up and used plaster of Paris instead of drywall compound. Worked like a charm.
Mr Jalapeno love your vids. You do great and I’ve seen you grow. Gives me how friend. I love sensing people who are true to where they are and who they are. That’s my prayer for myself more and more as of late. I’ve had some of these repairs and was just wondering because I have no idea in pricing how do you base a crack repair on price? World love some advice because I don’t want to screw the customer or myself and sometimes it seems like I do myself. Thanks again.
Hey jalapeño. What part of Colorado are you from? Ive been following your work for a while. My sister recently moved to Colorado with her husband and I’m thinking of moving there in around that area. I do very similar work that you do and i also have experience doing stucco work (patches and new construction) and drywall and paint work.