Gelcoat is a resin-based polymer layer applied to a boat’s exterior, providing a smooth and shiny finish. It also creates a waterproof barrier that reduces UV damage and hydrolysis, protecting the boat’s structural integrity. When gelcoat on a boat’s hull is damaged, it can be repaired by cleaning the affected area, assessing the extent of the damage, sanding the area, mixing the repair material, filling the damaged area, covering the repair, allowing the repair to cure, and removing the covering and shaping the repair.
Gelcoat and fiberglass repair can seem intimidating, but understanding the causes of gelcoat blisters, cracks, and crazing is essential in determining the appropriate repair approach. There are several methods for repairing gelcoat damage, including filling in the damaged area with putty or resin and sanding it down to match the surrounding area.
To repair gelcoat dings and cracks, follow these steps:
- Know your boat finish.
- Match gelcoat color to the boat’s exterior.
- Get the surface ready.
- Tape and sand the damaged area.
- Apply filler.
- Mix in the catalyst.
- Apply gelcoat.
- Sand and finish.
To repair gelcoat dings and cracks, first choose a part of the hull identical in color to the damaged area. Use a rubbing compound to flatten the area to restore its original appearance. If a boat’s gelcoat is damaged, apply a piece of gelcoat to the damaged area and sand it until it is smooth.
In summary, gelcoat repair is a crucial process for maintaining the beauty of a boat’s exterior. Understanding the causes of gelcoat issues and implementing the necessary tools, materials, and techniques can help ensure the longevity and longevity of the boat’s gelcoat.
📹 GELCOAT and FIBERGLASS HOW-TO- RepairEVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW to fix gel coat damage on a boat
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Is gelcoat easy to repair?
Gelcoat repairs are often considered a complex and challenging task by boat owners. However, with the right tools, materials, attitude, and time, professional-looking repairs can be achieved. Gelcoat is the first thing sprayed into a female mold during boat construction, usually 0. 5 to 1 mm thick. Depending on the construction method, layers of chopped mat and fiberglass cloth are built on top to form the hull, deck, and other molded parts. When the parts are removed from the mold, the smooth outside layer of gelcoat is visible.
Gelcoat doesn’t fully cure when exposed to air, but it forms an impervious barrier between water and laminate. Safety precautions include protecting yourself from dust and fumes, using common sense, and understanding safety instructions. Catalyst is especially noxious, so avoid breathing in fumes and wear a respirator, Tyvek suit, and disposable gloves. If gelcoat gets on your skin, wash it off immediately with soap and water.
Does epoxy bond to gelcoat?
Gelcoat can bond with epoxy, despite common misconceptions, provided the correct procedures are followed. Gelcoat to epoxy adhesion can be as reliable as polyester to polyester adhesion. This is significant for WEST SYSTEM Epoxy users, known for its versatility and strength. The ability to bond with polyester-based materials like gelcoat enhances its utility. The success of bonding depends on proper surface preparation and adherence to the recommended steps for the specific epoxy system in use.
Will epoxy paint stick to gelcoat?
WEST SYSTEM Epoxy is an appropriate substrate for polyester-based materials, such as gelcoat. The adhesion between gelcoat and epoxy is as reliable as the adhesion between polyester and polyester, provided that the appropriate steps are followed during the repair process.
Can I spray gelcoat over old gelcoat?
To maintain your boat’s appearance and seaworthiness, remove as much old gelcoat from the hull as possible. Use low-grade sandpaper and scale it up, starting with 40 or 80 grit and finishing with 100 or 200 grit. This will remove debris and rough up the surface for new gelcoat to bond. Gelcoat is essential for protecting the fiberglass surface and acting as a barrier to water absorption. It’s like the paint on window frames, which fades over time and rots due to rain. Gelcoat keeps your boat afloat, preventing damage from weather and water.
Will gelcoat stick to gelcoat?
The application of additional gelcoat over an uncured gelcoat layer will not facilitate the curing process and may necessitate the removal and subsequent reapplication of the gelcoat. In order for the gelcoat to cure, it is necessary to allow a sufficient amount of time for this process to occur. In the event that the gelcoat does not harden within a few days, it is advisable to scrape it off and reapply it. To remove the uncured gelcoat, one may use acetone on a rag and a plastic putty knife to facilitate the breakdown of the gelcoat.
How to fix deep scratches in gel coat?
Gelcoat repairs on fiberglass boats can be done using gelcoat paste, a filler that provides both filler and finish in a single application. This method is preferred when the gelcoat surrounding a scratch is in good condition. Sanding and polishing are needed to smooth the repair and blend it with the rest of the hull. Gelcoat is available in resin and paste forms, with paste being the preferred choice for scratch repair. Repair kits can be purchased for less than $20 and include a small amount of paste, hardener, pigments, mixing sticks, and sealing film.
A flexible plastic spreader and sheets of 150-, 220-, 400-, and 600-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper are also needed. Color matching is the hardest part of a gelcoat repair, as professionals struggle to get a perfect match, even after a boat has been in the sun for a few years.
Can gelcoat be restored?
Gelcoat fade can cause a dull, tired, and lacklustre appearance on your boat. Damage from elements can erode the soft surface of the gelcoat, leaving it looking chalky and dull. Restoring the gelcoat is an easy task that can be done yourself. Gelcoat restorers, suitable for fiberglass (GRP) gelcoats, can restore color, shine, and appearance. Owatrol’s Marine Polytrol penetrates deep into the material, protecting against corrosion and blemishes.
This not only restores the gelcoat but also makes maintenance easier. It is easy to apply, doesn’t require wax or polish, and doesn’t require wax or polish on top. This makes gelcoat restoration a simple and effective task.
Can cracked gelcoat be repaired?
The answer to customer calls about repairing gelcoat cracks is no. Cracked gelcoat should be removed, sanded with 80-grit sandpaper, and repairs made. A minimum of three coats of WEST SYSTEM® Epoxy should be applied to seal the fiberglass before applying paint or gelcoat. If the cracking is a symptom of another issue, repairing the crack and not the underlying cause could lead to repeated cracking. Thinning the gelcoat is not practical for thicker gelcoats. After repairs, some boats remain crack-free for years, so taking the time and doing the job right is crucial.
How do you fix large gelcoat damage?
In order to repair gelcoat on a fiberglass boat, it is necessary to follow a series of steps. 1) Determine the boat finish; 2) Match the gelcoat color to the boat’s exterior; 3) Prepare the surface; 4) Tape and sand the damaged area; 5) Apply filler; 6) Mix in catalyst; 7) Apply gelcoat; 8) Sand and finish.
How do you fill deep clear coat scratches?
A car polish should be applied to the scratched area using a clean, soft cloth in a circular motion, with the objective of achieving a consistent finish. It is also important to polish the surrounding area in order to achieve a uniform and pristine finish.
Can you paint over boat gelcoat without sanding?
Once the gelcoat has been cleaned and sanded, a 400-grit wet-sanding tool should be used to create a textured surface on the gelcoat, ensuring that the paint can adhere to the boat. This process should be carried out in a way that produces a smooth surface for paint application.
📹 How to repair Fiberglass and Gelcoat damage. PRO TIPS in FULL DETAIL!
I knocked a Chunk out of the bottom of my Boat! That’s ok, I’m going to show You how to fix it. Gelcoat and Fiberglass repair can …
First time boat owner here. Picked up a 98 22′ four winns bowrider. Its been passed around the family and I now own it. One of the guide bunk rail brackets came loose and sagged and the lower tube section dug into the fiberglass on the bottom at the stern. This was probably the most viable process I’ve found so far and likely the process I will be using to repair the damage. Its not a pretty boat anymore, but I do want to play around with polishing the whole rig and see how nice I can get it looking. That filler putty is a must for what I’m doing.
I completely enjoyed the “Industrial Gelcoat Finish” aspect of the article. I have a 45 year old boat with some dings and wear on the keel which I have filled with thickened epoxy but have never finished it with gelcoat because I am not trying for a professional finish. All the other articles spend way too much time finishing it off to a perfection. Your method was what I needed. Thanks.
Great article. Thanks. It is much appreciated. Something I wonder, though, is why you used the cheap paint brush. A better brush wouldn’t shed bristles that you then needed to pick out of the gelcoat layer. It would also give you a smoother finish. Sure, a good brush costs a few dollars and I don’t know if it can be cleaned after being used for gelcoat. But, even if the brush cannot be cleaned, a good brush probably costs less than $10. I looked through quite a few posts, but not all, so I apologize if this was raised previously.
Good morning! I love your website and the how-to articles. Thank you for posting them. I have a 1975 Glastron Carlson that I had re-flaked in 2009. I shouldn’t have, but I walked on the bow for a couple of years while I fished on it. Long story short it has developed some cracks in the clear coat gelcoat. I need a fix and am thinking of just spraying another layer of clear coat hoping it will fill the cracks. Is that a good plan? Is there another way to fix these cracks? I know your busy, but any advice would be appriciated.
Thanks bro. That’s a great help. Just one question for you. If I’m creating a piece from a mould do I need to use gel coat alone or gel coat with the wax as my first layer. Would gel coat alone tear when pulling the piece out of the mould as it is still tacky? What I guess I’m asking is do I use topcoat first and then gel coat or is it ok to just use gel coat alone and finish the piece with topcoat when I pull it out of the mould?
If I am doing a similar gel coat job with two layers of non wax and finishing the following day with a finish coat(wax) should it be sanded between the separate gel coats? I know the non wax/laminating says it doesn’t need to be sanded between coats but just didnt know if it should be sanded before the waxed gel coat. Thanks!
I just repaired mine like this but just saw that formula 27 isn’t supposed to be used below the water line. My boat is going to be in the water for 2 weeks straight. Do I need to sand all of the repair off and use thickened gelcoat paste or should I be good for 2 weeks and just fix it at the end of the season?
Great article, man. Appreciate all your work sharing and explaining it. I have a fairly large gouge on the front keel (same place as yours) of my 19ft runabout and it’s just deep enough that it actually leaks. Am I safe to still use the formula 27 filler to fill in the gouge and continue as you did with gelcoat? Will your process be water tight? Thanks!
There is a 24ft 1974 aqua sport center console boat for 7k, I was thinking about buying. I have never owned a boat before. i did see some damage on the keel like your repair in this article and the deck has some gel coat cracking. its deff a project boat. Im a mechanic so im sure i can handle the engine and electrical side and any other mechanical issues. but the hull structure is what i am unfamiliar with. This article gave me tremendous insight. I appreciate it. not sure if you do Q&A’s or calls but i know i would have some questions for you lol. Take care!
Hi from Brisbane, Australia. I have just found your website and wow it’s great. It’s a shame you are not here. I know your suppliers are mostly US. I think for most of the world where we use metrics if you could also give metric measurements, conversion to American imperial is not easy as its is different from our predecessors of the British imperial systems
Thanks for your articles. Really helped me with a big project (small for you, big for me😂). I used spectrum color patch kit. It says hardens in 6 minutes and can be sanded in an hour. It seems hard enough but I put the boat away and am going to wet sand in 2 days. There isn’t any harm in that is there?
Great article! Question, you mentioned no wax in the first gel coat application then let it sit overnight, were there any other steps taken before applying the second coat with wax on the following day? I assume the non waxed gel coat sets up just enough to be able to apply a second coat the following day. in your opinion how much time is too much between coats?
What do you recommend sanding woven roven with . It is on the gunwale of the boat very thin skin . Its an old 67 Crosby sled . I want redo floor with plywood or coosa but is that realistic to put that kind of money in this boat. It was gift from my dad so it has sentimental value. Could exterior grade plywood do an ok job with 1708 on it ? If so epoxy or fiberglass. I actually want to put the teak EVA foam or gel coat with nonskid. I’m building a deck for bass fishing.. nothing crazy just over the top of the existing deck that’s been making it larger so you can store stuff like life jackets and make a pedestal for fishing . My question is for laying the glass up on the side when a glassing the floor I want to be able to send the paint off of the existing woven roven without sanding thru. Also would it make it too stiff by laying the 170 way up on the sides and making the sides a little thicker? 14:54
I have 1/2 inch holes in my center console can I use your technique in this article to fill holes ? my gelcoat is a cream white and would need to be sanded and polish. Not sure if i should gelcoat over the Evercoat 27. Should I put tape behind the holes to keep the Evercoat in place or is it thick enough to stay put? I thank you for informative articles !!!!!! Great