Cracks in the corners of walls can result from natural settling, impact damage, water damage, or general wear and tear. To repair these cracks, it is essential to understand the cause and take appropriate action. A straightforward step-by-step process involves assessing the extent of the damage by carefully examining the cracks and using a utility knife or scraper to remove any loose material surrounding the corner bead.
When replacing a corner bead, measure at least 1.5 inches from the corner and use a straight edge. Different methods for fixing drywall cracks in corners include using pre mixed joint compound, which comes in a bucket and is available at most hardware stores, or using a drywall corner bead to create a clean corner edge.
To repair minor damage to a drywall corner, apply joint compound directly to the damaged area without replacing the corner bead. Cut above and below the damaged area enough to find common ground, then double up a couple pieces if necessary. If all scrapes and dents are superficial, use a topping compound such as Gyprock CSR 2.25kg Less Mess Topping Compound for the repairs.
A quick setting spackle is available on the market that works well for patching an area, smoothing it, and painting quickly. Cut out a scrap piece of drywall larger than the wall damage and trace the patch size over it. For good measure, prep the damaged area with PVA two coats at 4-1 water-PVA. The first coat should be left to dry, then apply the second coat and allow to dry completely.
📹 USG Surfaces: How To Repair Corner Bead
Follow these simple steps to ensure you fix a damaged corner properly.
📹 How To Fix A Bent Corner On A Wall.DIY DRYWALL REPAIRS.
Removing and repairing a bent corner metal on sheetrock or drywall, Cutting out, installing, and patching damaged corners.
Thanks for the article! That 5min mud is great, you just gotta move fast with it depending on ambient temperatures. Also, I know time is money and you probably went a little faster to make a quick article, but letting the mud set a little longer will prevent gumming up your sanding sponge or paper. That “texture spraying body posture @9:18” is common, LOL. Shows you know your stuff! Thanks again!
I know I’m way late to the party here . . . just found your wonderful website. Couple of things I do: 1) see how the corner of your bead was hanging out on the top right? I clip all those corners off at a 45 degree angle. Makes them lay down in there better and not hang out. I do it on the plastic corners too. 2) Also, on the metal corners, you can hand bend them in a little, past 90 degrees, which will also help hide the edges.
my question is can dap pach amd stick work as well for the metal to cover back up the metal. Im painting my walls right now and I can see the metal in certain spots on the corners. So I got the Dap and patch tube to fill little pin holes from hanging things and filled those in with that. So can I use the same stuff for it or do I need to go buy some else diff from home depot.
I have a basement finished by a professional contractor but there’s a problem. When t he house was built they put metal corners at the base of the finished stairs. With this remodel the contractor just butted up new drywall to the metal corner. Now after a few years there’s a visible bulge where that metal is. Do I float the whole wall out 1/8″ or dig the metal corner out and patch?
So you said you cut your bead about a quarter inch longer — Is that for overlap? It kinda looks like its overlapped when you mud. I guess the thickness of the overlapped bead can be feathered out to disappear if thats the case? can be I just don’t want that corner to be an eyesore when I’m done:) Thanks for the vid homie.
To all homeowners remove your baseboard remove your bead starting from the bottom of your baseboard when you get to the top of your ceiling make sure that you cut where the bead next to your ceiling and wall so it is a clean rip and then just replace the piece of bead and apply of couple coats sand in between prime touch up and finished. No old bead and new lines up 100% perfect. Yes 95 if your walls are textured like orange peel. But high end paint grade. Do not do this. Also dry mud “powder” needs to be whipped with a drill and paddle for a minimum of 2 minutes. Then let it set for 2-3, then whip again. If you buy a box of all purpose pre-made you can use it for the hole job. Thin down the mud use the tip of the fingers too splatter it on. Then use your finishing knife in the direction of the texture. I’m a pro you are not!
Well he’ll when I did my corner walls it took me 4 hours to make it look right!! I didn’t use the oil base spray you used instead I tried to cover the steel corner edge with putty and then sanded it to try and make it look straight. I wish I saw your article before I finushed….grrr. thank you for sharing. 😚
i like the article thanks,im trying to do this at my brothers house, but i ran into a couple of issues maybe you can help me . after cutting the metal i have it meeting the bottom of the metal that was left on the wall after it cut it, i heard you say let it over lap,with what i did,will that cause a issue, or will i be ok doing this ? the metal that i put on the wall sit a little less then a quarter of a inch below the the wall,but so does the metel that was up there before .do you just put enough dry wall mix (im using the already made tub of it ) or am i missing something at this point,in the article it appears that its a very thin coat of drywall mix, mine will have to be much thicker to even out with the wall itself. also i used drywall nails not drywall screws,is this ok ? it appears to be on there tight . lastly, how far down should i go below the trim board at the floor,im doing a area almost identical as you are doing . thank you for any info you might be able to give me .
Chris – I truly found your article the most helpful on a 90 degree corner repair – I really need your help on what the differences are in repairing rounded bullnose corners – I get it that removing the dented in piece is the starting place and cutting a new piece that overlaps 1/4″ but after that what is different? Do you have a article on rounded bullnose repairs?
Love your articles Chris. I have learned quite a lot from your painting tips especially, and I utilize them in a lot of my rehab work. As a little tip with hot mud…. put the water in the pan first, then sprinkle the compound into the water. It will mix faster and smoother. Pro-Form 5 is much more workable than USG and you can tool it very smooth with a 6″ knife as it sets off and and eliminate sanding when texturing. I rarely have to pick up a sanding sponge with texture type repairs.
Here on the West Coast, we have “hangers” and “tapers”, but no “sheet rockers”. Also, I’ve never seen anyone pour water into the tray from a 5 gallon bucket. We dip the tray into a bucket with water, and then have a sponge to add a little more water if needed. 2 buckets, one is always clean water for mixing and the other for cleanup. And though I’ve never tried it myself, I’m told that if you use the cleanup water for mixing, it will kick off the mud quicker, for instance if you’re using 20-minute mud. One of my guys doesn’t get very concerned if he has a few lumps in his mix, he just spreads it on the wall and mixes the lumps as he goes, right on the wall. You have to be very careful with sanding down orange-peel because it flattens the texture. You can be certain that the original finish was not sanded down. The best way to blend the repair with the surrounding area is with a damp sponge. I’m not as good as my guys that do it all the time, but I try to learn from them as much as I can. Thanks for the article. I, for one, always appreciate the Scripture verses.
i was wondering what that metal piece was in my wall. my dog chewed a hole into a corner of the drywall and also ate a bunch of the drywall behind the metal corner. ate a gap in the drywall about half an inch to maybe an inch wide, by 8 inches long. what should i use to fill that gap before putting a new corner metal on?
Dont you use the Paper/plastic corners in the states? We have a hard plastic corner with a layer of paper on the outside and on the inside its a adhesive that activates once it gets wet. So on new plaster corners we just spray with dash of water and wait 10 seconds, then place it. 20 seconds later the new perfect corner is not gonna come down unless the building falls.
Please i need work i will move to where u are i am 10 years of painting business i consider myself a clean and a professional painter i got a 695 greco and a 550 titan with a 3200 mti power washer i got all the tools and professional tools and the skill of prep on ext and int wood work such as stain laqer refining wood all types of dry wall repais and stucco matching texture plesse. Let me knw