Restoring and rebuilding vintage campers can be a great DIY project, providing an off-grid vehicle on a budget. However, it is important to be aware of potential hazards when restoring an old camper. The process involves more than just repairing the exterior or updating the interior; each RV has a story to tell, and through restoration, we honor its past while preparing it for the future.
To restore a vintage camper, follow these simple DIY projects:
- Paint the camper with the appropriate type of paint, purchase it, and tape it.
- Remove one side wall and repair it as needed, adding bracing to keep the roof supported.
- Make sure all CO-emitting equipment is up to date when restoring your vintage trailer.
- Clean the camper thoroughly, including the interior, exterior, and deck.
- Use a specialized shop or artisan who appreciates the historical integrity of your camper.
- Prepare the surface by painting the seams, caulking the camper, and adding finishing touches.
- Clean the camper thoroughly before decorating and ensuring that all CO-emitting equipment is up to date.
In summary, restoring a vintage camper requires a little TLC and knowledge of how to properly paint, strip the camper, and build scalloped awnings. By following these simple DIY projects, you can own an off-grid vehicle on a budget while honoring its past.
📹 I Restored a Rat Infested Vintage Camper Trailer! DIY RENOVATION
I found a vintage camper trailer about eight years ago and traded it in exchange for some labor. With a month free this year I …
What material is on the outside of a camper?
Aluminum is a popular choice for RVs due to its cost-effectiveness and malleability. Its texture is typically ridges, unlike fiberglass trailers which are flat on the outside. Aluminum trailers can be thousands of dollars cheaper than fiberglass, making them ideal for first-time RV buyers. Additionally, aluminum trailers can be easily replaced if damaged, unlike fiberglass trailers which require a complete replacement. This makes it a more cost-effective option for those looking to explore the RV lifestyle.
Additionally, aluminum trailers are more insulated from the elements, as they can be easily removed and replaced if damaged. Overall, aluminum is a more cost-effective and versatile option for RV owners.
How to restore faded fiberglass?
There are numerous products available on the market that claim to be the best solution for dull, faded gel coat. One-part cleaner/wax products, which combine wax with mild cleaner, abrasive compound, and lubricant, are effective on mildly dulled or chalked finishes. Restoration/wax compounds, on the other hand, have a more aggressive rubbing compound and may have an abrasive that breaks down when applied, producing a finer finish.
Another class of products is acrylic or similar coatings, which are thin and easily applied, leaving behind a waterproof coating that fills the gel coat surface to form a shiny layer. However, due to their thin nature, multiple coats are usually required.
Can I paint my camper exterior?
The author spent a lot of time choosing the right RV exterior paint, considering options like marine epoxy or automotive paint. However, these are expensive and come in limited colors. The primary reason for choosing Behr latex exterior house paint was the lack of color options. After a year in Alaska, only two quarter-sized high-use spots are chipping. They used two gallons of paint for the base coat and several quarts or paint samples for decorative colors. Tiny paint sample pots can be used for colors you only need a tiny bit of. The RV exterior paint colors used are listed below.
How do you detail the outside of a camper?
To clean an RV, spray the entire side with clean water, use a foam gun to spray cleaning product, wipe it down one small area at a time, rinse it, and repeat on the other side and back. Spray the awning and sides with clean water, use a foam sponge or soft brush to clean the ridges, rinse again, and allow them to dry completely. Use a specialty bug remover product or elbow-grease and soap and water to scrub the front, repeating the same process as the sides.
How do you spruce up an old camper?
Twenty-one strategies for renovating recreational vehicles (RVs) are presented, including painting the interior, modifying the exterior walls, enhancing the space with camper furnishings, installing shelving, incorporating wooden accents, hanging window treatments, replacing flooring, and upgrading lighting.
What type of paint for camper exterior?
Acrylic and latex paints are typically suitable for improving the visual appeal of camper exteriors.
How do you spruce up the outside of a trailer?
The U. S. has seen a growing interest in mobile homes, with 22 million Americans currently living in these prefab units. These structures offer cost savings, efficient living, and customizable designs. However, mobile homes often lack appeal to impress guests or potential buyers when selling their property. To counteract this, there are several ways to enhance the exterior of mobile homes.
Installing a unique front door and matching architectural accents, repainting or repairing siding, sprucing up skirting, replacing plain steps with porches or decks, getting creative with carports, playing around with plants, and maximizing outdoor living space can all contribute to a more appealing mobile home.
To give mobile homes curb appeal, it is essential to work with and around their unique structure. This guide offers tips for getting started and a list of specific projects to inspire your next hardware store trip. By doing so, you can be in love with the way your mobile home looks in no time.
How to brighten up a dark camper?
To add a splash of brightness to your RV, consider adding colorful throw pillows, small rugs, bedding, wallpaper, artwork, backsplash, and plants. Neutral color schemes in most RVs can be brightened up and personalized through fabrics, art, and imagination. Master the throw pillow mix by matching different patterns and colors in complementary shades. Small rugs throughout your RV can also add color and pattern, such as a knotted rug at the kitchen sink or a bright bathmat in the bathroom. For a DIY touch, consider making a rag rug bathmat from upcycled t-shirts. These simple ways to add personality and personality to your RV space are perfect for any budget or DIY skill level.
📹 The Right Way To Restore Your Vintage Trailer
I’ll explain how the structural integrity is built into these light weight boxes on wheels that we call trailers. You’ll also get to see the …
I just got a 1952 camper. I’ve been perusal restoration articles for tip and ideas but every article shows a complete teardown and rebuild with new, modern walls, floors, exterior tin,…. everything! Why not just buy an new camper? I LOVE your renovation! It looks like stepping into a 1950’s weekend by the lake. Bravo! Beautiful! I adore your camper and can only hope that mine will be as cozy.
Great project! I so relate to your comment that projects can sit there on the to do list and never get their turn at bat (how’s that for some metaphor mixing!?) I retired three years ago and like the proverbial cobbler turning my attention to my own kids’ shoes, I started tackling projects on our old house. While the todo list continues to grow, I do bask in the glory of the completed list too.
Big Duke! Good to see you, brother, that restoration looks incredible! I totally agree with you that we live in a special time. I’m a lefty, and a more artistic type as far as natural proclivities go, but I have no excuse not to fix my own truck, or even mill my own lumber when there is a tutorial for just about everything. I intend on building your half rack after I’ve milled enough wood, so thanks for taking the time to make these articles, brother!
When I was around 28, I got a hold of an old 16′ trailer like that and updated the inside and I lived in it for a while. My new wife when we got married (I was 30 by then), lived in it for about three or four years, maybe longer, before we got an old Amish built 24 foot trailer we lived in for a few more. I think we lived in the trailers for about 8 years total. That was around 38 years ago when I first got it. Lots of memories!
You and your wife did an amazing job on the trailer. I myself had only built small things out of wood, well in 2015-2017 i built a teardrop trailer and i have to tell you i did not know i was capable of building some thing on that level, people say it is the best looking one they have ever seen, what a great feeling.
My Gf and I just moved to Northwest Arizona to be closer to her daughter while she goes to school at UNLV and we bought a 12 acre piece of property that was a tax forclosure for 3k, It had one of those 12×32 sheds that people are building into tiny homes on it and a gutted 16 foot camper with a bunch of lumber in it, apparently that’s what the former owners were going to do, so that’s what we did. We built the shed into a our house and we just moved into it. Now I’m redoing the camper for the Gf’s daughter so when she comes home for long weekends and Holidays she has a place of her own but she’s still “home” with us, although her camper will basically be a sleeping area a toilet, with a lil desk for her laptop and a t.v./ sitting area, She’s going to shower and eat at our house anyway so why spend the money to put it in.
Towing with a Jeep is foolish and dangerous. Weight doesn’t matter, the geometry is going to jacknife you eventually. It will happen that time you’re braking, going downhill a little too fast and suddenly remember that your 60 year old trailer has no brakes if it’s own! Get a full size, long bed truck. Seriously.
Thanks so much for sharing this article! Great job restoring the Westerner! We restored our 1962 Shasta (wings and all! ) But didn’t get to keep or replace the cabinets on the curb side of the camper, then I realized that the cabinets are most of the strength of the camper when going down the road. I’m hoping that some bracing and possibly adding in a dresser (securing to the walls, possibly with “L-shaped” brackets from floor to wall and ceiling to wall ) will make it secure enough to travel. Do you have any advice? Thanks again for sharing.
Thank you for this article. I just bought a 1997 Elddis Wirlwind here in the UK to start start my adventures. Just arrived 2 days ago, so I am cleaning it up and will take my time to transform it with some modern furnishings. It is in really good condition, so I will have a few cramping trips before doing it up🤞
I love those vintage campers. That is nice. Beautiful. If I didn’t wear a leg brace I could do that. What satisfaction that would be. A week and and a half ago I bought a 1989 Toyota dolphin RV. The the inside and the engine were rebuilt in 2006. It’s still a little bit dated, but it doesn’t have carpet a bunch of garbage in it. Just needs a cleaning and that’s not that bad, surprisingly . I want to put a 12 V fridge in it. Take out the black water tank in the toilet for a composting toilet and put a new counter in it for now. I have all the solar power devices those are just for emergencies in the house like everybody should have. I can’t use the above the cab bunk so I don’t know what to do with that yet. if there’s a will, there’s a way because that’s what I have had to do all my life, figure it out. I lost my husband and he would’ve figured it out. I will have it done if I can find somebody? That’s not proving to be real easy.
Hey buddy i love the restoration! I hope you get this and will help me please! I just got a 6×13 OLD Scottys trailer and has issues major issues. I have inner walls that are rotten! Studs and walls are bad! I was wondering when you started redoing yours did you hut the inside without taking the outer shell off to, talking bout did you have to take the metal siding off to replace studs or was you able to leave it on i hope? The outer metal all of it is great shape and i want to make it where i can go on light 4×4 trails but ive never done anything like this so any help willbe greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Thank you for sharing! Do you have more articles on the camper that are more in depth? I have gutted my 1960s zipper camper about a year ago and I am wanting to work on getting it remodeled. Most people say take off the skin and work inside out but I really do not want to do that. Would love to hear more about what you did and materials you used.
Hello, where did you get the hazmat suit? I have asthma and many health complications and my brother has a camper that has leaked and is full of mold. On December I will have no place to live in but my tiny car and I thought perhaps it can be done. My brother can’t help me with this project but he told me if I fix it is mine. I am a little bit scared because I have broken two of my arms, many bones and I have osteoporosis. I have no choice but I am trapped. Thanks for the article, great job . I hope I can do this
I brought home a 1969 camper that was infested with animal filth from being abandoned on a sheep ranch. The new owners gave me the trailer just to get it off the property but would not give me a bill of sale so I could get it registered. After investigating what it would cost to restore it I disestablished it and hope to sale some of the metal and a few parts. Most windows and some aluminum siding have bullet holes. I have now finished the axle and will remount it to the frame. I do not expect to recover any cost on the project.
LOL! In a Nut Shell. I watch these Tube vids of people so called ‘rebuilding’ these classic trailers and i just shake my head, I used to design RV trailers, Truck campers. Mobile homes. And Modular homes for several MFG’s in the NW and I have just one thing to say….’If you want to do it right’ pay attention and follow the advice offered in this article.
Absolutely correct. These trailers must be built from the inside out. They get their strength from the cabinets…period. Referring to the door being a weak area in the structure, consider how weak slide-outs make the structure. I’ve had trailers with slideouts….never again. The whole structure twists and flexes, weakening everything in the structure. It’s not so bad in the short units, but long trailers will shake and twist themselves to pieces. Not to mention the maintenance, leaks and crazy addition weight. But hey…everyone likes something different and that’s ok. I just prefer strength, lightweight and low maintenance that no slide-out RVs offer.
Great article. Straight forward and to the point. My family and friends know that restoring Shasta’s is my passion now. They are always sending me ones of facegram and insta-twit that are for sale. They think they have found some great ones until I point out everything that’s wrong with them. The first big clue is if they have been painted on the inside. Dead give away.
Great article. I am so grateful that you talked about the need for floor to wall cabinets. I need to incorporate that somehow as I will be gutting it to turn it into a snack wagon. I recently bought a vintage trailer that I can’t find any information on. It is a 1973 RTRAV by Maje. Have you ever heard of this make or model before? Thanks.
Thank you for the article Larry! This is timely for us, as we finally have our 1962 Shasta done, but we had to get a builder-friend to finish the job, it was too much for us. He started with the frame and went from there, but he ran out of time and didn’t put any of the cabinets back on the door side over the wheel well, so I’m glad we haven’t taken it down the road! Feel kinda silly for not realizing this. Your “Restoring the Shasta” articles have been so helpful these past 8 years as we slowly worked her over. So, I need to ask, is it possible to just add cabinets (ceiling to floor, from what you said here) and be okay? Would any sort of shelving or 1×4 racks give strength? I don’t want to do this wrong or possibly cause harm or injury. Thank you again for sharing.
Hi Larry, we just finished a complete remodel. We ripped out everything, replaced rotten framing, pocket screwed instead of stapling the wood together and then rebuilt the cabinets, bathroom etc out of wood according to the original floor plan. It took a year to get to this point. We haven’t taken it out on the road yet, literally just finished, but is this the kind of rebuild you are saying will explode? We did not remove the skins at all but replaced the j rail
I found you a few years ago from perusal your DeVille restore some 15 years ago. We have a 57 DeVille we will be rebuilding. Our frame looks a lot like the frame you have on this Jewel, did you add any additional supports to it? I found another article of a 58 DeVille rebuild and they had a whole box around the bottom, when we went to the Vintage Trailer Magazine bootcamp to learn how to rebuild/restore the rebuild guy said there would be a whole box frame to screw the carriage bolts through but again ours frame looks just like yours here, where wood frame extends out to make the rectangular bottom rather than metal frame.
Thank you. I’m about to go get an old Shasta trailer out of a field. There is a big hole in the skin and the whole interior will have to be removed. The Shasta is a small one and we were on our way to look at another 20 ft Rambler (?) by TCA (Terry) which is vintage and the exterior is in good shape. So, I would like to know how to rebuild correctly. When, I get the trailers back here if I can accomplish that.
I believe every word you said on the way to rebuild your camper! I have a lite weight 20 year old tandem axle hybrid, I’m restoring. I’m gather materials before I start. I tore into the inside see what I have. I found a company that sells trusses that are made identical to length and the way they are shape with the same technique on the build of them . It was like nearly $300 shipped to my door to replace all of them! But I’m rebuilding like the factory did. I’m also glade I found the owners manual, it’s a bible on this camper, how it was put together! Good luck with your build and be safe!!!
How about 1967 Model 260 Kencraft Fiberglass travel trailer? I can’t really remove the roof/ceiling. I can gut it and work from the outside without removing the cabinets. But is that the right way with this one? This thing has a lot of rot, but I got it because of the fiberglass roof and the benefits of that material.
Larry I bought a 1962 Tepee travel trailer. Is road worthy, but there are a few things I need to change. Main concern is the door. It doesn’t lock, the handle has a welded metal bar to open/shut with, AND it has been worked 😢on before and drags so bad that it takes two hands to open! Is this a rebuild endeavor or should I see if I can possibly locate one somewhere?
Hey Larry, You sound aggravated at the people that post negative comments. That’s understandable but forget them, most don’t have a clue what they are talking about and couldn’t build a sandwich let alone a trailer. Their only purpose in life is finding articles and placing negative comments. We call them trolls!
Hi Larry .I have never own a camper. Just a tent .I’m up there in age like 60 .you r right .wood .big 👍up to your article. I believe ever word about doing it right the first time . Me and my brother r doing one from frame up . 11 feet long x6 feet wide. 6 feet hi .on a aluminum trailer 2023 trailer. I pick up last year for .6.725 dollars. 7712 .look it up. And mine is a 04 made in Canada 🇨🇦. I pick it for my arctic cat .side by side 700 cc.and my brother just bought it from me yesterday. 14.000so the money 💰 he gave me is going to be my camper log house. Lol .I looked it up trailer can be loaded under 2.440 ponds .I do my home work .being an old truck driver. Hauling logs .. lolttul .
Hehe! Right on Larry! Most people don’t want to invest the time and hard work these days. Hard work sucks sometimes but it’s got to be done. The right way is the long way most of the time. I’m not a trailer restorer, but perusal your articles and seeing the end result shows you definitely know what you are doing. There is always a step by step process.
Hey, hows it going! I’ve been restoring my 1979 class c. I redid the roof, rebuilt the left wall, and partially rebuilt the right wall. I had to relaminate a lot of my siding (wrap) as well. Right now, I’m rebuilding the entire over head sleep in area above the cab and was wondering what the best way to reframe it would be. The manufacture used wide crown staples, but the staple guns are a bit pricey and was wondering what your opinion is on how to properly reframe it, taking strength as well as flex into concideration. I can use screws, or get a cheaper narrow crown stapler that can use broad nails as well for $30 compared to $150. What are your thoughts? Thanks man, I love the website!!
That’s why when we were looking for our first trailer we went with a ’71 Ozark LL that we could mess with and glamp up. We looked at a beautiful ’60 Lincraft canned ham for sale, but we would have had to do everything right to do it justice and that was too much pressure, lol. With the 1971, we can paint or swap out fixtures without feeling guilty for ruining it. We did the same with our house – we looked at a beautiful old Victorian with all original woodwork and decided that someone with money to do it right should have it, and we bought a 1940 ranch instead.
JUST FOUND YOUR YT. WE HAVE A RAT VINTAGE SCOTTY CAMPER TRAILER FALLING DOWN AT OUR CAMP AND DECIDED TO DO A GROUND UP REBUILT. LOVE IT SO. THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR KNOWLEDGE WE WILL DEFINITE BE SIGNING UP FOR THE CLASSES. OH AND EVERYONE LAUGHED AT US BECAUSE THEY WANTED US TO JUST JUNK THE THING….PEOPLE!!!
Thanks for this article, I bought a 1972 Pathfinder that someone was trying to restore with cheap materials and paint. It was gutted and I couldn’t find specs on cabinets inside. I completely disabled the camper, rebuilt walls, roof, floor frame, and cabinets. I did not build an overhead bunk in the front of the camper yet. What are your thoughts on the importance of a bunk or cabinet across the front of the camper for improving structural integrity of the camper? It measures 8’ wide by 12.5’ long.
I brought home the 1966 Shasta. It is thrashed and I have this question. Is it worth it? It needs to be completely rebuilt. I need to know if I should use the old axle. This one has brakes. I really do want to take on the job but it will be expensive. The door is gone. I found the hinge and the door handle some feet away in the dirt. I rebuilt a 1970ish trailer and used it for some years and loved it. I do want to attempt this rebuild. I have the bunk bed out and a lot of the debris and dirt, sticks, etc. out. Still more cleaning of animal habitat ugly stuff yet to do. I took off the tires, but not the wheels yet. Do I need to change axles because of the bearings? I don’t know what a title search will cost. Hints, as I’m in California? I think I need a class…
I love the vintage trailers that are done in natural wood, They are so cozy in my opinion, the ones that are painted do not have any charm at all and are actually ugly. I do not have a vintage trailer but I do have a 2019 Apex trailer. The wood inside is natural which I like. If the wood was painted, it would take away the charm.
If I had not watched your article I would have never known that that cabinet was structural and would have been screwed going down the road. Now here is the question I do not like the cabinet located there. I have a 1967 Williams craft that I am rebuilding. I have already removed the cabinet and the floor and I am putting in an entire new floor system so as I am turning my attention towards that cabinet, what else if anything can I do to provide that same structural strength on that side because I have removed all of the cabinets? Thank you in advance.
I build and rebuild houses and Office Buildings and when you say stuff about spackle and paint I get that crowd. I like the way you think about building! I am right between buying a plastic bubble and restoring or building a ham because I don’t need a lot of space for what I want to go do. So I’ll probably will join your class, if something I don’t normally do.
Larry, I bought a 1968 Serro Scotty 3 months ago. It is all original but has a lot of wood rot. I think the only way to do it right is to completely tear it apart and replace the wood siding and roof. I want to keep and reuse all of the original parts. What kind of cost am I looking at to do a total restore right now? Also is it a good time to be doing this with the RV market going down from what I am hearing? I’m not necessarily wanting to do this to make money even though I don’t want to lose money if I sell it later but I’m doing it more for therapy. Thank you. Looking forward to hearing from you. Mike
I listened! I agrees a thousand percent. The only pristine 1960’s trailer are in museums. They were NOT made to last 60 years. I would venture to say all have succumb to rust, corrosion, rot, and various other forms of decay. So the only thing that older trailer is good for, is a template to build your NEW trailer from.
I’ve been perusal your articles but one thing I’m not hearing- if the camper exterior metal is in great shape but there is some water damage/ rot in a few places on the interior, is it necessary to break the entire camper apart or can those few pieces be repaired/ replaced from the inside? We are removing booth framing, and wall materials. We are also removing the cabinets to fully replace the ceiling wood. But will re-install those items. Is this an acceptable method?
Just now seeing your article, and this is the gospel that I’ve been preaching ever since I did a frame-off restoration of my ’62 Shasta in 2005. This was the early days of vintage trailer restoration and I had to figure out everything myself, and the biggest insight is (as you and many have said) is that these trailers were built from the inside out, meaning that to restore them right the first thing you have to do is pull off the skins (which is LAST thing most aspiring “restorers” want – or are able – to do). The other big thing I learned is that there is almost nothing in these trailers that isn’t contributing to structural integrity, so you just can’t go and reconfigure the trailer without some serious design considerations. A few other observations: – “That’s not a cute little shelf under the front window, that’s a wall brace and has to stay there!” – “No, you can’t put an AC unit on the roof without some serious ceiling strengthening.” – “You can’t just replace the ice box with a bar fridge, unless you want to cut some vents in the outside wall to dissipate heat…otherwise that bar fridge is working way too hard.” – “The paneling does not cover the walls and ceiling, the paneling is the walls and ceiling (think of a cardboard box). The framing is for stiffening the paneling, providing an air gap for insulation and wiring, and as places to screw the skin on.” – “The toaster shape is certainly cute, but the roof curves also provide incredible rigidity with no increase in materials/weight.
Larry, I’m back after about a year having hauled a 69 Shasta to my home with the dream of rebuilding it to camp in. It was recovered from a field and was so filthy from vermin feces, etc. that I couldn’t accept any stick of wood on it, so I “disestablished” it completely and so I’ve had a long time to think about the dream. I’ve kept all the sides, roof, cabinets bullet customized windows, etc. in a 60′ container. I’ve taken the axle off and re packed the bearings, bought new tires that are now on the cleaned and painted rims. My immediate question is about flipping the axle, which I can find no specific advice about. This axle I would like to flip, (turn over) as well as put below the springs. The axle is 58 ” from wheel to wheel. It has an upward angle right angle bend at each wheel 3.5″ measured from the center of the square tube axle. I want to keep the brake adjustment and wiring in the correct places so I have unbolt in order to switch the wheels? I will weld a large washer so the axle will not slip on the springs. Is what I am proposing something that is feasible? The trailer is too low for a camper trailer. I believe I can rebuild a camping trailer and I took photos as I took the trailer apart, but as you are telling me there are a million little details I need to be aware of. There are quite a few changes to the original design I would like to make, if I can afford to launch myself into the effort. I’m still not so sure I should try. I found that I have two 10′ redwood 2x4s down the middle but would like to use 3″ steel website for the outside edges to fasten the cabinets to.
I’m remodeling my 76 Chevy P20 RV and this is helpful. Other articles I’ve watch just replaced wood and I’ve wondered the integrity. I’ve always thought the heavier the wood the stronger the integrity will be. Very interesting that the power comes from a cabinet. If I take your class may you tell me what does it entail?
Eh… factory way isn’t exactly the right way. When I built my teardrop I counter sunk screws and attached framing together that way, plus glue. When I bought a 1957 Santa Fe and opened it up I saw that they got the framing members close enough to the right length then stapled them together and relied on the interior panels and aluminum siding to do the actual work. Did it hold up for 65 years? Yes but it hadn’t traveled for the last 30 years until I bought it and limped it home. You can be Hoover Dam sure that I’ll be securing the framing together better as I replace the rotten pieces, not this “good enough” factory work. Other than that, good work here soldier.