Battery acid leakage and wetness in the tray or around bolts may indicate a larger issue. This corrosion is actually dried battery acid that collects from the venting process of the battery. Cleaning sprays with an acid neutralizer are best, but in a pinch, one part baking soda to three parts water can work. In a video by 1A Auto, they show how to clean or neutralize battery acid and remove battery terminal corrosion.
To prioritize safety when neutralizing car battery acid, wear rubber gloves and safety goggles. Car batteries contain corrosive acid, which can irritate skin and eyes. To prevent premature damage to the battery, ensure proper and regular disconnection. To remove battery acid from car upholstery, rub a paste of baking soda and water into the spot, leave for two hours, and wipe off with a damp cloth. Cover the spill with baking soda, which will absorb the acid and turn into a paste. Baking soda and water can also be used to clean piles of corrosion that build up.
To neutralize alkaline battery acid, mix vinegar and lemon juice and create a cleaning solution. Dip a cotton wipe into the solution and vacuum it up with a wet/dry vac. For corrosion on battery terminals, mix baking soda and distilled water, dip a brush in the mixture, and brush away the blue-green foam.
In summary, if you notice any corrosion on your car or truck’s battery terminals, it is crucial to disconnect it safely and use a mixture of baking soda and water to clean and neutralize the acid.
📹 Clean BATTERY CORROSION on ELECTRONICS! EASY DIY!|2-minute Tutorials Ep.4
This video shows how to clean battery corrosion on electronics using common household items. The presenter demonstrates how to remove corrosion from a label maker using white vinegar and isopropyl alcohol. They also offer tips on how to avoid damaging the device during the cleaning process.
What is the best way to clean battery acid off electronics?
Household batteries contain base chemicals, which neutralize them when powered off. Apply lemon juice or vinegar to the affected area, causing the discharge to fizz and disintegrate. Car batteries, which run on lead-acid batteries, require different supplies for cleaning. Consult a mechanic before tackling this job. Isopropyl alcohol is a versatile cleaning agent that removes residue from other cleaning agents, such as lemon juice or white vinegar, without leaving any additional moisture. This method can help prevent corrosion on electronics.
How to clean battery acid off of electronics?
To clean corroded batteries, first wear eye protection, gloves, and a long-sleeve shirt. Remove the battery from the device’s compartment and neutralize the acid with white vinegar or lemon juice. Wait for the corrosion to disintegrate, then remove oxidation from the battery compartment using a small file, sandpaper, or emery board. Place petroleum jelly on cleaned contacts before adding new batteries to protect them and improve electrical conductivity.
Call a professional when the device uses specialty batteries or is a medical-related product. To prevent corrosion, remove batteries from appliances not used regularly before storing them. Dispose of corroded batteries differently than other batteries, as they are generally filled with heavy metals and chemical electrolytes. Nearly three billion batteries are bought in the U. S. each year, and not all batteries are the same. Disposing of corroded batteries differently is essential for maintaining their functionality and safety.
How to clean battery acid from car interior?
To clean alkaline battery acid, mix vinegar and lemon juice to create a cleaning solution. Dip a cotton wipe into the solution and apply it to the battery acid to neutralize it. A toothbrush dipped in the solution can also be used to clean dried spills. High-powered battery systems, such as those used in commercial and industrial gadgets, can cause dangerous chemical reactions. To prevent chemical reactions, wear gloves, safety goggles, and a face mask when working with higher-power batteries, such as lithium batteries.
Gloves should be made from rubber, latex, or nitrile. Ford, the only remaining American automaker, plans to continue building gasoline-powered muscle cars after 2024, with the 2024 Mustang featuring a new Dark Horse variant that outperforms its GT counterpart.
How do you clean battery corrosion off a truck?
Battery terminal cleaner is a commercial product designed to clean and neutralize battery corrosion. It is a spray-on solution that reacts with corrosion, changing color as it reacts. Baking soda and warm water are effective neutralizing solutions. Mix the solution, dip a rag, and wipe the corrosion away to prevent leakage into the battery cells. Clean the terminal ends connecting the battery to the cables using baking soda and water solution or a commercial cleaner. Dry and polish the battery casing, posts, and terminals using a microfiber cloth and a terminal cleaning brush to remove debris or coatings.
Can battery acid be washed off?
To neutralize acid in electronics, remove batteries and use a Q-tip to coat the acid with baking soda paste. Dip a clean Q-tip or paper towel in water to remove the paste and acid. Dry the air with another dry Q-tip or paper towel and let it dry for an hour to evaporate any remaining water. Repeat this process until all the acid is removed. It’s important to recycle any compromised batteries and use fresh ones to avoid the same issue. It’s crucial to avoid touching the batteries, as the acid is harmful.
How to clean battery acid from floor?
To remove hard-core acid stains from tiles, cover the stain with baking soda powder, mix it with water to create a paste, and wipe it off with a dry cloth. If the stain remains, mix 10 ammonia with water and wipe it off with a soaked cloth. This process should leave minimal damage to the tile surface. pH-balanced ceramic surface cleaners are non-acidic and non-corrosive liquid cleaning agents that can be used regularly for hard stain removal, benefiting both the tiles and the environment.
Can battery acid be cleaned off?
Alkaline battery leakage is a serious issue that requires careful handling to prevent chemical burns. To clean it, use proper safety equipment and remove the leaking batteries from the device and dispose of them in a plastic bag. The best way to neutralize the leakage is by dabbing it with mild acid like vinegar or lemon juice. For stubborn leaks, an old toothbrush dipped in vinegar or lemon juice can be used.
After neutralization, dry the area thoroughly, scrape the residue, and polish the metal device contacts with a pencil eraser. Energizer has made improvements in battery construction to prevent leakage issues, including the Powerseal ™ Technology and a No-Leak Guarantee on some Energizer® batteries.
How to clean the inside of a lead acid battery?
To check a lead-acid battery, it is essential to catch leaks or corrosion early. Regularly inspect the battery, even if it is maintenance-free, to ensure it is clean and dry. Use a solution of baking soda and water on a soft cloth to clean the battery, avoiding getting any cleaning solution inside. Start by checking for fluid on or around the battery and corrosion at cable connection points and terminals. Be cautious of frayed-looking cables, as they can be dangerous.
If a leak is found, replace the battery or have it repaired if possible. Use appropriate protective equipment, such as gloves, eye protection, and long sleeves, when inspecting or cleaning the battery. If a wet battery needs watering, use distilled water, not tap water, and add water only when the battery is fully charged. Consult the owner’s manual for specific battery types or water requirements. To maintain lead-acid battery performance, follow these guidelines:
Does wd40 remove battery acid?
WD-40 is a common solution for neutralizing corrosion on battery posts, but it may not be ideal for sensitive electronics. A special contact cleaner is recommended for this purpose. If left in place, it can become a grime. To clean battery corrosion, visit an Interstate All Battery Center or a trusted repair shop. Car battery corrosion can be caused by battery acid, which can cause cracks in the battery’s case, and hydrogen gas, which works by releasing hydrogen gas into the battery.
How to clean battery acid off fabric?
To remove stains from clothing, mix baking soda with water to create a paste, smear it over the stain, and let it sit for at least 5 minutes before blotting it with a clean, damp cloth. Let the paste soak for an hour using Grab Green Liquid Dish Soap, a non-toxic dish soap that can lift most types of stains.
Afterward, wash the garment according to the care label using natural laundry pods like 3 in 1 Laundry Detergent Pods or Stoneworks Laundry Detergent Pods. Dry the garment according to its care label in the dryer, along with Classic Laundry Dryer Sheets or Stoneworks Dryer Sheets, or Grab Green Dryer Balls, to keep fabrics soft and prevent cling. This method is crucial for successful stain removal.
📹 How to Clean Battery Corrosion
This video demonstrates how to clean battery terminals using common household items like baking soda, water, and a toothbrush. The presenter explains the importance of safety precautions and provides step-by-step instructions for removing, cleaning, and reattaching the terminals.
As someone who has dealt with electronics as a job (in the military and after), I can say that the eraser is for something completely different. It’s for cleaning contacts that have become tarnished. Not a corrosive build up. Also, you need to use a more abrasive eraser than the standard #2 pencil. Yes, they make erasers for this job. Something else that you can do is put some sand paper on the end of a pencil and rub off the corrosion. Something like a 150 or 180 grit would work for something like this. You may have to use a higher grit, 220 or 320, for more sensitive contacts.
Thanks for this clear and uncomplicated tutorial. I’ve just revived one of my grandson’s toys which one day came out of the bottom of the toy box dead. He of course hadn’t seen it for a while but immediately lit up when it was in his hand. Only to be disappointed when it didn’t turn on. I thought, “Uh-oh,” when I went to change the batteries. I tried to clean it (eraser, toothpick), but no-go. I thought about sweeping it into the trash can, but left it on the counter, in plain sight—keep your failures front of mind if you want to change the outcome! Two days later this came up in my feed (thanks, You Tube!) and now I’m a hero. Subscribed, for re-inforcing my newfound hero handyman status in the future.
Good info. I don’t use my label maker much so I keep the batteries in a plastic bag and use when needed. It doesn’t take long. For installed batteries I set up a 6 month calendar reminder to check those batteries. You have to have the discipline to do the work but it saves me from problems like this.
Good article! right to the point. A lot of people don’t realize that all of the major battery manufacturers have a warranty on their batteries. If the device is damaged beyond repair they’ll pay the replacement or repair cost of the damaged item. Not sure how difficult it is to make a claim on their warranty, but might be another option rather than throwing the device away. P.S. I also use rechargeables now in all my electronics and flashlights. I only use the alkaleaks in kids toys which usually have a short lifespan anyway.
I have a zoom Q3 handy article recorder that had been stored with batteries for about 5 years with batteries. the battery compartment was corroded. I cleaned it the best I could, but it still did not work with the new batteries. I found this article, and did exactly as you said, now my recorder is working with batteries. Thank you so much for this article.
As a certified Bio-Medical Electronics Technician I have seen medical equipment (hand held ultrasound, portable pace makers etc.) that were corroded. Our shop supervisor would not allow us to scratch the gold plated contacts as it can remove the thin layer of gold and expose the base metal to the air and further corrosion. He recommended a pure gum (Pink Pearl) because they had no fiberglass in the eraser. Vinegar is a weak acid. You use this to clean the leaked powder(base) as it neutralizes and turns it to a salt. Then as you clean it with the alcohol be sure to let the fluids run off the area into a towel so as to keep from draining into the rest of the device. Salts are conductive and could cause the circuit board to malfunction. I have cleaned many a legacy PS2 keyboard with coffee or soda spills in them and on a humid day they start to act up. Additionally a can of “duster” spray is also effective in removal of salts.
Finally a useful article! I bought a used game at Goodwill and my son was so disappointed that it didn’t work. Thanks to your article, I was able to bring it back to life! I’m excited because it’s an educational game, he’s going to learn something, and I’m not out any money. He’s excited because his new game works. Thank you!! 🎉🎉
The standard AA and AAA “copper top” batteries are worthless for anything except use in a toy that will quickly use up the battery. I am an individual that actually goes through the trouble of recycling my batteries, as you’re suppose to, and I collect a bunch of them over time in a plastic container and then take them all in at one time. The “copper top” batteries were the only ones in the pile of AA and AAA batteries that had begun to leak. I no longer use them at all, I instead use Amazon Basic batteries and they have been just fine. I once sent in a complaint to Duracell as corrosion had occurred with one of their AA batteries in a wall clock even though the battery was years away from it’s expiration date. They sent back a gift certificate to buy more Duracell batteries. I sent the gift certificate back to them telling them to give it to someone who was still willing to use Duracell batteries.
This arrived in a timely manner as I have a flashlight with leaking Kirkland batteries. It is only a cheap one, but I’ll still take a little time to clean it up. I’m surprised to hear so many people commenting about leaking Duracell / KIrkland batteries. I’ll have to keep it in mind for my next battery purchase.
Duracell changed how they manufacture their AA batteries. I have an old thermostat that is powered by two batteries. Last Winter, the display had dimmed and to my astoniment, those batteries were labeled 2012! Neither one had leaked. The ones I have labeled until 2028 LEAKED after two years! I know this as I put them in a TV remote for a Smart TV I bought four years ago and didn’t want to use the off brand batteries supplied.
This is why I switched to NiMH rechargeables several years ago for literally everything except smoke/CO detectors – due to the different chemistry they literally NEVER leak. They’re much better than they used to be with much lower self-discharge properties. Easily get a year between charges on low-drain devices (remotes, etc…)
In my experience, anything abrasive will tend to attract oxidation of the metal contacts, but the finer the abrasive (like polish) the longer the gear will last before having to be cleaned again. I agree that where batteries have leaked, a weak acid on a swab is best to remove the encrusting metal salts. I’d discourage using tools like screwdrivers, file or sand paper etc at least as much as possible. If you do have to use something like that, then go with as fine an abrasive as you can to get the job done & a good metal polish afterwards. Polishes are not all equal, I tend to use Autosol metal polish as I have found it gets a high polish pretty quickly & it’s more of a paste so it doesn’t run all over the place like liquid polishes can. Clean the polish off with alcohol & then apply an electrical contact cleaner conditioned like DeOxit F5 or similar product. This dries to leave a thin semiconducting skin over the contacts that excludes oxygen from causing corrosion anytime soon. It’s thin enough to be very low resistances at the actual contact, but it’s resistive enough to not cause short circuits across to other components. In my decades of experience maintaining auditorium PA equipment, these semiconducting contact cleaner/conditioner produces tend to last at least 6-10 times longer than just using a straight contact cleaner or alcohol. Some products are not safe on some contact types, but the Deoxit product seem to be safe on most things. I have cleaned a lot of component tracks & buttons, remote controls, computers, analogue audio equipment (mixers, equalisers etc).
After attempting to use a wire brush and flat head screwdriver to no avail, I looked for an answer on YouTube. Came across your article, and with nothing to lose, gave it a shot. IT WORKED! You just made my kiddos day getting their train remote to work with their train set. Thank you! Now this has me thinking about all the items thrown away that could have been saved! lol
Much more common problem these days, thanks to battery manufacturers making their batteries cheaper (in quality, not price). A well designed and manufactured battery should not leak, and for many years I didn’t have battery leakage problems with Duracell batteries. Over the past eight or more years that changed to the point that it is now common on any of my battery powered tools, toys, lights, etc. I now change the batteries well before they are actually used up, to avoid the damage. I plan to change to the latest EverReady designs that have a thicker case and better seal to see if that takes care of the problem.
I have never used vinegar for this, I have always used acetone and it works quite well, even when the stuff is very hard and crusty. Acetone is aggressive to some types of plastic, but inside a plastic case it won’t do any damage, it might just make the plastic surface a little dull; just make sure you don’t spill any on the outside. It does not damage circuit boards or metal and it is non-conductive and very volatile.
This along with most other similar vids is great with devices with easily accessible battery contacts but I have a foaming soap dispenser where the contacts are deep inside I need to glue a disc of fine abrasive paper to an AA sized flat plastic rod after cleaning with cotton buds & dilute kettle descaler.
Duracell batteries are the absolute WORST for leakage like this in my experience!!! They’ll last longer than any other battery I’ve used so they are great if you need something like a radio or flashlight to run as long as it can IN ONE DAY but if you’re gonna keep batteries in a device for months or years better use the 2nd best which doesn’t leak ENERGIZER!!! That’s what I switched to and never have been sorry!
Standard pencil eraser is for removing the haze of tarnish on a contact. Nothing more than a light haze. For a bit more corrosion use an ink eraser. Hard to find nowadays because White Out has mostly replaced it. It was an eraser that had some fine abrasive in it. Like very fine sand or perhaps pumice. But for erasing ink from paper it frequently rubbed a hole in the paper. But it was good for removing a bit more corrosion than just some tarnish.
We have a lot of these happening to our electronics as we’re in a small Pacific island due to salty air + humidity. What I do is use sheer off a wooden tongue blade/depress against the grain so I have a flat but tough fibrous tool to remove corrosion, or shave it until I get the size that I want for small work. Won’t damage plastics or tinned pcb connectors. Then I clean with rubbing alcohol, then add some light grease such as petroleum jelly (silicon grease for higher end stuff) and it’s good for quite a long while. Greetings from the tiny islands of Palau 🇵🇼🇵🇼🇵🇼!
I see the problem here. Duracell has gone to hell in a basket the last few years. I’ve stopped buying them because their batteries have ruined 3 devices for me and I’ve even had a package of Duracell AAA’s leak before they were even taken out of the package. Duracell used to be a good brand but their qc or production has gone into the tank.
I am an electronics technician with over 40 years of experience. It is bad enough to almost have to write off a customers item due to corrosion from a leaked battery. But, when it happens to one of your own test instruments………….That probably explains my hair loss. In Australia, many years ago, I trusted Toshiba batteries. They never leaked. But, in the last 10 years or so, they now leak. They obviously have cut some corners in production. I have even had them leak before opening the package! I bought them in bulk thinking that was a good thing, not so. Nowadays, I trust Panasonic batteries. They even state leak proof on their package. You might pay a bit more for them. But, boy, it certainly is worth it if you save a test instrument or don’t have to waste time trying to resurrection the tv remote.
Interesting! I never thought about using vinegar. Vinegar (acetic acid) plus potassium carbonate (that white stuff that dries out) becomes potassium acetate which is a food additive (E261), a hygroscopic weak acid. In plain English, we go from a hygroscopic alkaline to a hygroscopic acid substance, neither of those electronics friendly.
Thanks for the information. But I also have found that removing the batteries from the device you are not using works even better. I also leave the batteries I’ve removed near that device, so if I need that device, the batteries are nearby. Great help, though because I have had this happen numerous times.
I’ve used to use Duracell batteries and found them to be excellent. Excellent, that is if you want a new device, and are willing to press your case. I have never attempted to do this illegally, it has only been after discovering a device is not working, and when checking the battery compartment, discovered that the Duracell batteries have leaked and damaged contacts and printed circuit tracks, rendering the devices inoperable. Over a period of a few years, when I thought they were ok, I used them, and on 3 occasions Duracell replaced expensive equipment e.g. Fluke meters and the like. On each occasion they required photographic evidence, but never asked me to send the equipment to them. They simple sent a cheque, for a substantial amount. I then bought replacement equipment, repaired the Damaged equipment, and had 2 devices to use when fault finding. In the end I stopped using Duracell, and ever since have used Energiser, which have never leaked.
I have worked in the construction laser sales and repair business for 23 years and I can tell you a $10 set of batteries that has leaked like this can cause hundreds of dollars of damage or more. My hobby is music and I can also say that you can ruin guitars, guitar pedals and electronic keyboards the same way. You give great advice on correcting minor damage but to prevent it all together remove batteries from anything that isn’t in use or stored for any length of time and don’t subject your stuff to extreme temperatures. Also a product named DeoxIT is good but more expensive than vinegar and alcohol. Also the worst and most often leaks and out-gassing I have seen is from Duracell brand batteries.
Well when it comes to Duracell alkaline batteries it looks like you guys were right. I just found an EEVBlog article and it was pretty scathing of duracell. The NiMH Duracells perform really good as mentioned in my previous comment. P.S. I just opened up an old portable HP 82240 printer and found badly rotted batteries inside and they were Duracells!! 😮😂😊
My experience is that Duracell batteries are far more likely to leak even when the still have adequate voltage and current to run a device and even when they are only a few years old. I’ve noticed that Ever Ready Energizer batteries now claim on the package that they have more leak resistance and I have found that to be true through having used dozens of them in AAA, AA, C, and 9V. I do not buy Duracell or store brands any more. I only use Energizer when possible.
A couple of tips that I picked up along the way. First, don’t leave batteries in items that you don’t use often. Second, don’t use the “Copper Top battery” It’s the worst battery out there. The best tip I can pass along is use lithium batteries. Especially if the device is not used too much and you have to leave batteries in it. There is no chemical reaction with lithium batteries and so they won’t leak and damage your equipment. They’re more expensive but to me it’s worth not having to do the vinegar clean out.
You forgot the most important part, unfortunately. The corrosion has been removed now, but so is the protective chrome layer on your copper contacts. Over time, they will start to oxidise, which means bad connections again. You should put a new protective metallic layer on them, like zinc spray. You can actually apply it easily with a needle on the corroded area, after you get some out of the can.
Cool article! I’ve watched a few of these because I have said problem on a nice head lamp I accidentally forgot about in the bottom of my tool bag. From what I understand the vinegar is an acid while the alkaline battery leakage is actually a base. Alkaline base as it were. So the vinegar (acid) helps to dissolve and counteract the alkaline (base). But don’t quote me I am not a scientist. Haha!!!!
If you have electronics that use AA or AAA batteries and you don’t want to take a chance of this happening, never use alkaline batteries. Instead, use disposable lithium batteries or rechargeable Nickel Metal Hydride batteries. Disposable lithium batteries are around $2 per battery, but they last the longest in devices and have the longest shelf-life (20-25 years). Nickel-metal Hydride rechargeables are best for often-used or high-drain devices. If you only have alkaline batteries (which are more affordable), then take them out of the device when you’re done using it.
After the procedure or with every new battery powered device, you can add petroleum gelly or “vaseline” to the contacts to help them stay nice. I don’t know the exact word for the product, but just “grease” them before any corrosion is present and/or after the corrosion has been cleared. This especially helps for devices being carried outside (flash light etc.), where moisture is very likely to be present and will eventually get contacts corroded.
Figures it was a AA Duracell. I gave up on Duracell years ago because of their well-known leakage that caused me a few corrosion problems and even spawned some consumer lawsuits. Don’t know why Duracell can’t make a better seal like other battery manufacturers. Instead of “Copper Top” they should rename it “The Corrosion Top Battery”. Thanks for an informative article.
Prevention is ultimately always a better solution. Buy a tube of Dielectric Grease (aka bulb grease) and lightly apply it to any electrical connectors with a Q-tip or small watercolor paint brush. Alkaline in the batteries are the problem as they tend to corrode over time. Years ago I switched to rechargeable Eneloop batteries made by Sanyo. I was skeptical at first but I have 15 year old Eneloop AA batteries that still work great!
Thanks for the article. I noticed you are using Duracell batteries. For many years I was die hard Duracell fan. Then over the last 5-7 years I started noticing that all Duracell batteries were spewing their guts way before they should. Many times in less than a couple years. For several years now I have been using Amazon and Eveready which I understand are the same maker. I have not had the problem once. I avoid Duracell like COVID now. Don’t use Duracell. You’ll be less likely to have to clean the corrosion out.
The key is to NOT buy DuraLeak, EnerLeaker or RayoLeak batteries. They are ALL garbage these days. The best batteries I ever bought were the Walmart branded batteries that they no longer have. Also the cheap batteries that came with remotes NEVER leaked. I had a cow cookie jar that mooed when you lifted the lid. It was over twenty years old and still had the original batteries in it and it still worked!
I have never experienced leakage with Duracell (which last very long) and I have been using only them for decades (not the same ones of course). However I have found energizer often to be garbage. Maybe it depends on where one lives. One should never mix different brands and are you mixing alkaline and Mignon here? Can’t imagine that.
One thing I can say is that Duracell and energizer batteries seem to be designed to self destruct and take out whatever device they are installed in! I refuse to buy or use them due to the extreme failure rate! I buy cheap store brand or dollar store brands and just change them more often. I am transitioning some devices to rechargeable lithium but they are expensive. I know some devices deplete the cheap batteries quickly and so if I have to use Duracell or similar I make sure to remove them if the device isn’t used very often. But I learned another lesson recently that you shouldn’t store the Duracell or similar near the the device either or if you do put them in a zip lock bag as I had some loose inside a case with a laser level and they self destructed and apparently just the vapor is so corrosive it attacked the tool in ways I would never have believed!! All the metal contacts were corroded and it attacked the the soft rubber over molding it was white and scaled and bubbled!! So be careful these things nasty!! Also to clean electronics that have had liquids on them first immediately remove batteries or power source. Then disassemble rinse off contamination with de ionized water or distilled water if you can’t find de-ionised water and finish with 100% isopropyl alcohol and let it dry before reassembly. Typically the damage is done when the original spill occurs if your lucky and get it clean it should be recoverable. Good luck!
Great article! BTW, you can use an eraser to remove corrosion (though I would complete the steps you provided in your article first), but you need to use an ink eraser (the white one). And unless you have a large area that you want to clean, get the kind that looks like a pencil that you have to sharpen—the point of the eraser is small, which makes it easier to get it where you need it.
Good info, thank you! In the good-ol-days (late 1950’s; early 1960’s??) Ever-Ready battery company would replace a device if ruined by their batteries leaking. Back then it was just the occasional flashlight and transistor radio, (Not many expensive ‘toys’ back then) but on a couple of occasions, they did as promised. Mailing the item back to the company may have cost more that a new flashlight? ☺..I don’t know when they stopped doing it, but likely that benefit didn’t last long.
Why did HH measure the voltage with the black multimeter probe to positive and red to negative?! This really surprised me. Luckily his multimeter also displays negative DC results. It wouldn’t have worked on an analogue meter and I assume some digital ones. He didn’t seem to register that the result was negative.
the eraser works, IF it’s an old type latex rubber one. not for thick layers as shown in this vid, but for what’s left after you use the screwdriver. almost every pc tech knows the eraser trick for cleaning metal contacts and how well it works (I’ve found computers that were being thrown out because “it’s completely dead” and got them going again by simply using an eraser on the contact edges of the memory sticks), as do many other electronics repair guys. the first time I heard it was when I joined the army and we were taught to use one to clean the handset contacts on the old AN/PRC 25 and 77 vhf radios.
I found many years ago that Duracell are terrible when it comes to leaking acid. I refuse to use them now and have for years. Even if someone gave them to me, I wouldn’t use them. I’ve also heard many times that you should not mix battery brands as you did at the end of the article with Duracell and Energizer…
Energizer AA had sticker saying it will last till 09-2029. Died on me last week in October 2023. 6 years before what’s stated on the label. This was the first time I ever witnessed and heard the process of alkaline battery leak. Usually I only faced the result of it only. After perusal branded battery vs non-branded comparison on YT, I came to a conclusion there is no need to overpay for brands.
And >>> I have noticed that the Duracell batteries seem to be failing a LOT MORE in the past year or so than previously. I switched to the silver Energizers as all the info on them states that they will not leak and corrode. So far – so good. HOWEVER —>>— I have found that in some of my GMRS HTs (walkie talkies) the Energizers will not provide power that they like and they will not work so, Duracells again and now the Panasonic rechargeable eneloop batteries which work perfectly.
It worked🎉🎉🎉😂😂 I can’t believe it. I was ready to buy a new wireless mouse, before I watched this article I attempted to clean it myself and may have done some damage. I didn’t know batteries do that and assumed I must not have been careful enough and spilled something on it. But turned it on now and it workssss, thank you❤
Pencil eraser works great but only before you get noticeable corrosion. I’ve done this for decades. If you have power drop outs but the battery contacts all look good. This will take care of the problem. Years ago I was in a photography store looking at an expensive spot meter. It was working intermittently. I think it cost $250 new, I paid $60 for it. When I got it home, I just polished up the contacts with a pencil eraser and used it with no problems for many years. Not sure if I ever had to clean it again. My small flashlights I’ll always polish up the contacts with a fresh pencil eraser. I’ve even used Vaseline and Ox Gard on the contacts. Neither of these greases conduct electricity, but what happens is the battery or wire connection pushes it out of the way. This leaves a metal to metal contact that is surround by grease that keeps out water and oxygen. Too much and you can disrupt the connection. As a sailor I’m around high humidity and salt water so all these techniques come in handy.
First of all, stop using the Duracell batteries. They are the absolute worst batteries you can buy for leakage. I’ve had the large packs that you can buy from Costco or Sam’s and had them leak in less than two years in the package. I’ve found the Energizer Max is much better. For low-drain devices, I buy carbon-zinc batteries from Dollar Tree which never leak
I notice your leaky battery is a Duracell-Copper -Top battery. DO NOT BUY these. The Duracell used to be a good battery. No more….. Their quality control has gone to hell. Get the silver Energizer battery. They last much longer without a leak. Don’t know about the off-brand ones or store house brand types. I just don’t buy the cheap stuff. Have not had to clean up a mess like the one you worked on in the article in years.
Saw this and instantly thought ‘YIKES this is going to rust the metal and possibly damage the unit more”. One product I started using completely by accident is Krud Kutter’s The Must for Rust (liquid bottle not the spray). Using the same Q-tip method and the liquid on the end it chews through all corrosion quickly, you may need to keep changing swabs as the reaction lessens on larger corrosion. Followup the cleaning with some isopropyl to clean the contacts and avoid any damage to the metal. AVOID letting the liquids drip into the body of the electronic by holding the device with the battery compartment facing down. Always remember to use eye protection, one of those springs could easily flick dangerous chemicals into your eye.
Duracell batteries are CRAP. Over and over I have had them leak and ruin stuff. I bought a brand new Roku unit – direct from them – and a few months later I couldn’t get it to work. The Duracell batteries they supplied for the remote had leaked ALREADY. Never, ever buy those batteries, they leak far more often than any other alkalines.
USE CLR instead of vinegar. Way more gentle and faster than acetic acid and it has a chelation agent that will remove instead of make corrosion on metal worse. and it’s way less acidic. Other than that, following with isopropyl is a good idea(91% is best), then let thoroughly dry(for 3 days if you have any concern liquid got past the battery compartment.
My experience with Duracell batteries is that they leak more often than anything else I have tried. I’ve got kids, so that means lots of battery operated toys come through our house. That equates to many, many batteries being used, and they all leak eventually, and you will forget to remove some when the toys get stored fir awhile. This method is my go to for cleaning as well. Electrical Contact cleaner works, but some plastics will melt, so use caution.
Instead of a screwdriver, I use some automotive sandpaper (400 grit plus). Abrasive enough to knock off the excess corrosion, but does not excessively scratch the surface of the contacts. Also works to clean off the ends of the batteries to make better contact when using a battery tester if having trouble getting a stable reading.
I got tired of dealing with this so a few years ago I switched to Eneloop rechargeable batteries. With the kits came C and D adapters so I’m all set. I don’t know what’s going on with the alkaline batteries these days, this was never an issue in the 80’s and 90’s. Now it seems like they leak every single time. Eneloop doesn’t make 9V batteries but I just order a set of 4 rechargeable 9V LIthium Ion batteries from Amazon so hopefully they’ll work well as too.
Nice article ….. I solved this problem for me anyway buy switching all my little devices over to Lithium batteries which Lithium batteries don’t corrode ….. Problem solved …. Obviously someone might say but Lithium batteries cost more and you would be correct but Lithium batteries last longer and as always you get what you pay for.
Hello, having the same boring trouble all the time with the most batteries in my several equipment, when it get in a flat condition. I take an old toothbrush and clean first dry all contacts. Later on I use vinegar to neutralize it. A drop of Ballistol oil or WD 40 on a q-tip careful may help for the rest. When I don’t use a camera or anything else, it’s better to remove all cells.
And now that it’s clean, I’d strongly suggest tossing the Corrodacells err…. I mean Duracells in the trash and never buying them again. That brand has really gone down the toilet over the past 15-20 years. Back in the 80s-90s they were great and rarely if ever leaked, but more recently? I’ve seen them puking their guts out while still in their retail packaging, unused and less than halfway to their printed ‘use by’ date. For anything taking AA or AAA cells that can operate on their slightly lower output voltage (1.2 vs 1.5), I’ve switched exclusively to (originally) Sanyo (now made by Panasonic) Eneloops or the equivalent Fujitsu NiMH batteries. First learned about them on a photography forum around fifteen years ago as a good option for use in electronic flashes, which tend to gobble up batteries at about the rate howitzer shells were used in the Battle of the Bulge, as a good, reliable rechargeable alternative to buying alkalines by the truckload. I’ve NEVER had one leak on me, and they just work. Give them a try.
Thanks for making this article. Thanks to you, I was able to clean out the battery compartment on my old gameboy. The batteries were very badly corroded and leaked battery acid all over. I had a hard time pulling the batteries out, they were stuck in there good. I cleaned out the compartment the best I could but the gameboy wouldn’t work. Then I found your article and after trying your technique for cleaning it, my gameboy finally worked again! Woohoo! 😄 Again thanks! 😁👍👍
An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cures… Why not think to seal the battery ends before putting them in? Could use a drop of superglue on ends of battery, being careful not to get it on the contact point, of course you’d have to let this dry before installing. Another alternate, dip each end of battery in oil or vaseline or grease, wipe off the excess and install. Perhaps someone else has another idea? I also think dipping battery ends in hot candle wax and then scrape or scrub off excess??
I simply hate Alkaline batteries. Especially Duracell. They Always leak fluid that corrodes the terminals. The worst by far are Duracell, which I noticed you used in the article. They are so bad that even after cleaning as shown in your article my electronics usually don’t work – they are toast. The Durashit batteries, as I call them, leak well before the expiry date, even in unopened packets. They always leak during use even when it looks like that have almost full charge. It doesn’t seem to matter where they are manufactured (US or abroad), all size alkaline Duracell batteries leak. AA, AAA and the 9V ones which I use the most. Basically, I don’t buy Durashit anymore. They are an awful product.
My label maker eats batteries… Even when it’s turned off. So, I’ve learned to take one of the batteries out and store it in next to the “ink” cartridge, and I don’t have dead batteries every single time I get it out. This has also limited the batteries getting corroded if I don’t use it for a while. I’ve only had that happen one time, and it wasn’t that bad because there wasn’t a path for electricity through the entire thing. There was no closed circuit.
Was parked next to a guy that couldn’t start his car at Harbor freight. While I had a battery jumper pack, I took a look and his engine compartment and took my diet seltzer. Water poured it on top of his battery post and told him to go start his car. The carbonated soda pop removed enough corrosion to get them on his way.
I have a milk frother that was nearly sealed shut with battery corrosion. I was just dealing with it when lo and behold this article is recommended to me out of the blue, I didn’t search for the solution or anything 🤨 My genius method of course was to completely immerse and wash the whole unit with water and soap 😂 Good to know the appropriate ways to do this in the case it happens to a more valuable item 😅
I try my very best to buy devices with a rechargeable battery (usually lithium ion). I have a flashlight (that I use for work) that has A larger rechargeable lithium battery, and a charging station for both the flashlight and the spare battery to charge together if needed. Did I pay too much? 😔 Yep Does it get hot sometimes? 😔 Yep Do I occasionally blind myself (and others 😏) with it? 😔 Certainly Would I buy another one🤔 Absolutely 😁 I hate the cheap, fragile, “throw away” devices that we make/buy these days… I carried a MagLight for the better part of 2 decades without failure (and would again if they’d Step Up their game).
I used to think Duracell batteries were the finest batteries made. After having many battery operated items recovered from long term storage totally ruined by Duracell batteries, I well never, ever use them again. I have found Energizer to be a far superior battery as far as leakages. Live and learn.
Good info here. I would only add that whatever your pursuit — woodworking, electronics, automotive or heavy equipment repair, all of which I do — one of the most useful tool types is a set of dental picks. In place of the small screwdriver shown here they are unmatched for use in tight spaces. And if you want to do your own dental work…
Omg, you are awesome! Tried this technique with 2 different remotes. I have to get the right sized batteries for one, but the other one worked like a charm! & ironically, to the person who said, “Don’t buy Duracell,” I pulled out a package of old Duracells that have never been opened, & they were all corroded too. Energizer for life!
Simple, no nonsense approach to hands-on cleaning corrosion like that is always better than using chemicals but the good folks who make WD-40 do have a contact cleaner that I can recommend for the really tough spots.. I would first clean the terminals just as you show in your article and I too would use a small scrapping tool of some kind mine just doesn’t resemble a screwdriver, it looks more kitchen utility-like.. yeah okay, it’s a butter knife! Good article! Post more please!
The vinegar will turn the residue in to salt and corrosion will increase. There is also a risk of leaking current when the circuit board is covered in it. I would recommend a good electronic contact cleaner. To get the oxide layer off rub with a cue tip, as you did. If it’s stubborn, buy a fibreglass pen from an electronics supplier and use it gently as it will scratch the surface. Eraser may also work. Finish with isopropyl alcohol as you said. You can coat it in contact oil or contact Vaseline to prevent future problems. The contacts will never be the same so if it’s critical equipment, replace it or the contacts. If it’s rusted you need a ph neutral chelating agent. Evaporust in US, Jenolite in Europe.
The erasers do work . However, the type that you use is the ” ink typewriter” kind that used to be used before computers. The grey ink type are a bit more aggressive in removing surface corrosion. Back in the 1980s, as f Marine feild radio operator, the Grey erasers were a must for removing corrosion from the terminals and especially when the BA 30s (D cells ) went south in a radio remote or a wire telephone powered by batteries equipment .
Good article but could also add that the white powdery corrosion and the liquid residue that comes from dead batteries is very corrosive to clothes skin and DON’T touch your eyes. Also it’s best to change batteries way before they get old enough to leak and ruin whatever they are in. I do not leave batteries in Absolutely Anything EVER I keep batteries in a plastic container or glad wrap and pop them in when I want to use something and then take them out when I don’t. Obviously if it’s something like the TV remote that you use daily then just change them every Christmas or every whatever once a year. But for things that don’t get used much why leave the batteries in them at all. Even a torch in the glove box of your car may never be used for years so don’t leave batteries in it have the batteries wrapped in Glad wrap separately so if you do need the torch just pop the batteries in and you’re good to go. Same with kids toys ornate clocks all sorts of things. Good article done this many times myself the trick is not to leave batteries in anything anymore unless you use it daily. cheers
Yup, the old-school method still works! I’ve been using that method for decades and most importantly, after all that time, I STILL FORGET BATTERIES IN THINGS. LOL Just 2 days ago, I noticed an old remote, that we haven’t used in more than 15 years, started flashing a red LED… OK, THAT’S NEW! I had forgotten to remove the batteries in all those years!!! To my great surprised, while the batteries did leak, it wasn’t that bad at all! Normally, with that length of time, all the metal would have been chewed up beyond repair. I used to use the screw driver tip like that, but then I got this Ryobi rotary too, cordless and a whole kit of those green rubbery bits (ok, that sounded bad) and I’ll say, this thing cleans up nicely. Gotta love old-school!
Thanks for taking the time to make this article Tiffany! I don’t know anything about the mechanics of cars and had a little corrosion built up so I went on YouTube and yours was the first and only article I watched! And because you explained it in laymen’s terms, I was able to go out to my car and do exactly what you said, minus the gloves, and after repeating the baking soda and water application a few times, I got the majority of it off! Tomorrow, I’ll remove the cables from the terminals, negative (black) first, give them a good cleaning, then spray them, then reverse the process with negative (red) first.Thanks again!
This was really good and she did a great job explaining. I need to clean mine and now i feel safe and brave enough to do this on my own. I do have one question, can i add anything to keep it moist like a lube or spray afterwards. And is it safe to use the car after you do this .. or do i need to wait a bit to drive or something? But thanks again for this article
Very nice to see women doing car maintenance and DIY articles. Keep up the great work. This was explained well and clearly. Thank you for NO MUSIC, what joy!! fyi – Don’t mention cookies. The minute you do, you bring women back to domestic duty. We are stereotyped enough, don’t contribute in any way to that stereotype. I am also female. I would also wire scrub the posts with some 00 steel wool or a battery terminal brush cleaner. Then add a felt washer (red for positive) on the post, slide it down, grease up the post to delay future corrosion, and reinstall the terminal lugs.