This DIY video provides step-by-step instructions on how to replace the inside of a toilet, including disassembling and installing a new fill assembly and flush valve. The video is accompanied by an Old House plumbing and heating expert, Richard Trethewey, who shows how to fix a running toilet and replace all internal parts of a toilet.
The most common internal toilet leaks are found around the fill valves, tank bolts, or spud washers. To fix a leaky toilet tank, follow these easy-to-follow instructions:
- Turn off the water supply.
- Empty the tank.
- Remove the tank lid.
- Disconnect the water supply line.
- Remove the old fill valve.
- Install the new fill valve.
- Install the new flush valve and flapper.
To replace the inside parts of a toilet, follow these steps:
In summary, replacing the inside parts of a toilet can be a simple and effective DIY project. By following these steps, you can ensure that your toilet functions properly and prevent any potential issues from arising.
📹 🚽 How to Fix a Running Toilet & Replace All Internal Toilet Tank Parts
Learn how to fix a running toilet. In this DIY video is Step by step instructions on how to fix a running toilet and replace all internal …
What are the inner workings of a toilet tank?
The inside mechanics of a toilet include a chain, flapper, fill valve, float, overflow tube, and seals that work together to facilitate flushing, control water flow, and maintain proper water levels in the tank. A toilet flange is a metal component connecting the bottom of the bowl to the drainage system and floor. The toilet tank holds water necessary for flushing and has a mechanism for controlling water flow and release.
Can a toilet tank be repaired?
A cracked toilet tank can be repaired, but only if the crack is small. A hairline crack is a quick repair, and a professional can seal the crack without causing further damage. If the tank has a large crack, it may need to be replaced or the entire toilet. Common reasons for a toilet tank crack include overuse, improper maintenance, or improper water drainage. To ensure a proper fix, it is essential to call a professional for the repair, as they can seal the crack without causing further damage. Ultimately, a professional can ensure a safe and efficient toilet tank repair.
What is the rubber piece under the toilet tank?
Toilet leaks are often caused by a small part called the toilet flapper, which is a rubber stopper at the bottom of the tank. It prevents water from flowing down into the bowl below. When flushed, the flapper lifts, allowing water to flow freely and creating the flushing action. Rubber is used for this purpose due to its affordability, flexibility, and ease of use. However, it corrodes over time and requires replacement every two years.
To replace a toilet flapper, you can buy them at a local hardware store for a few dollars and require no specialized tools or training. To do this, turn off the toilet’s connection to the main water supply and turn the valve knob clockwise to shut it off. This will separate the toilet from the main water supply, allowing you to empty the tank. However, the bowl and tank will not refill, and the fill valve will not turn on.
Can you use silicone inside a toilet tank?
In the case of a cracked tank, the issue can be rectified through the application of silicone sealant. Conversely, a cracked toilet bowl necessitates a complete replacement. The repair of leaking toilet tanks and bowls can be accomplished expeditiously and effectively through the use of wrenches, screwdrivers, putty knives, and a commitment of up to two hours. No particular expertise is necessary, although it is important to exercise caution to avoid damaging the bowl.
What do you use to seal the inside of a toilet tank?
Chronic leaks often result from faulty water supply connections, spud gaskets, or toilet wax rings. Tightening hold-down bolts is usually enough to fix the issue. Tank cracks can be patched with silicone sealant, while cracked toilet bowls should be replaced. Solutions for different types of leaks require wrenches, a screwdriver, a putty knife, and up to two hours of time. No special skills are required, but be cautious not to crack the bowl.
Is it normal to have mold in a toilet tank?
Toilet mold, which encompasses not only the black variety but also other forms, is a common contaminant of stagnant water. It is unsanitary due to its combination of harmful spores and its status as one of the most unsanitary locations in a home.
What are the internals of a toilet tank?
A typical toilet consists of the toilet tank and the toilet bowl or base. The tank contains essential components like fill valve, flush valve, overflow tube, flapper, lift chain, and handle/flush rod assembly. Outside, the tank includes the toilet gasket, flange, and wax ring. The tank and bowl are the two main parts of a toilet body, which can be separate or integrated into a single body on one-piece toilets. The toilet gasket seals the connection between the tank and bowl, while the flange secures the toilet to the floor.
How much does it cost to replace the parts inside the toilet tank?
Toilet repair costs vary depending on the type of toilet and the type of issue. The average cost for fixing a broken toilet is $250, with an hourly rate ranging from $50 in rural areas to $200 in cities. A new toilet costs $250 to $600, including labor and materials. The fixture itself costs between $75 and $400. The average cost for fixing a broken toilet is $150 to $400. Plumbers often charge a flat rate for basic toilet repairs, but the hourly rate can vary between $50 and $200 in rural areas. Due to the urgency of toilet repairs, expect to pay more than desired. The “priority” in “priority service” costs a premium.
Can you replace the guts of a toilet tank?
Replacing your toilet fill valve and flapper with a modern system with adjustable flow rate can significantly save water with every flush. These simple mechanisms can be easily installed using basic hand tools. However, it’s important to take precautions before starting the project. Older, inefficient toilets can use up to six gallons per flush, which is a significant amount of wasted water, especially in Texas, where drought is a constant issue.
Additionally, a leaky flapper or malfunctioning valve could cause the toilet to fill repeatedly throughout the day. Therefore, it’s crucial to replace these parts with modern, efficient systems to save water and reduce water usage.
What is the inside of the toilet tank parts called?
The tank is the top part of a toilet, holding either freestanding water for flushing or a pressure-assist cylinder. It houses the fill valve, flush valve, and trip lever, called “trim”. The tank lid covers the tank’s mechanisms. The bowl is the lower part of the toilet, used to hold liquid and solid wastes before flushing. The tank is typically gravity-fed, while the lid is pressure-assist.
How to rebuild a toilet bowl tank?
This Old House plumbing and heating expert, Richard Trethewey, offers a simple guide on how to rebuild a toilet tank. The process involves removing the tank, removing old components, installing new fill valves, flush valves, attaching a new flapper, putting the tank back on the bowl, reconnecting and testing, and finally reconnecting and testing the tank. The process is relatively inexpensive, requires no plumbing experience, and takes only an hour or two of your time. The guide is available for host Kevin O’Connor.
📹 How to Repair Toilet Tank Components | Ask This Old House
Ask This Old House plumbing and HVAC expert Richard Trethewey explains the failure points in toilet tanks and how to repair …
Excellent article. Was able to practically fix it on my own, well after taking it on and off four times because kept leaking, (not your fault, mine,) my back was hurting and my thumbs hurting so my husband came to help me tighten bolts. Very proud of myself. Couldn’t have done it without your help because the instructions were really bad that came with the parts.
Note that if you have a Gerber toilet, you will need a different tank-to-bowl gasket than is included in this all-in-one kit (i.e. don’t use the red one you see here). Search for Gerber tank to bowl gasket and you’ll find it. Without this gasket, your tank will leak when you put everything back together, even though you’ve tightened everything correctly. Don’t make my mistake!
I had to replace the innards of a Kohler. My particular Kohler had three bolts attaching the gasket which fits the bowl to the tank. I was able to use a generic full replacement kit with the addition of a new Kohler type gasket. I also used a socket wrench to get into the awkward places where the three attachment bolts nuts were.
Thanks for the article. I thought I was just going to replace the ‘flapper’ (didn’t wanna take tank off). Then I reached in there and the plastic tube just fell apart from age. So best I replace whole unit. A bit difficult because whoever designed my bathroom put sink counter top extending over top of toilet, only a few inches clearance. Thanks again!
I just love knowing that I can find a great article to help me with whatever DIY project I’m doing. Thank you and all the YouTube community of folks for taking the time to do your articles! It made the install so much easier and faster than the days when I had to decipher the instructions and tiny pictures included with something like this. You are awesome!
Thank you for helping me through my toilet tank nightmare. It started flushing itself. Opened the top and everything was covered in thick black mold! Lysoled and bleached inside. Took pics of the flush valve inside it with phone so I could match them at the big box store. Your article was awesome in helping me do the rest.
This article was super helpful. I watched this before replacing all internal toilent tank parts on my toilet. It was especially useful when stating the tools needed. Saved me a trip to the store knowing i needed a large website lock pliers in addtion to buying the replacement parts. Thank you for the tutorial
That sponge gasket of Korky’s all in one is weird, but after the first tightening, it leaked so I learned how to press down with a screw driver and finger-tip twist the nut underneath, then it worked. What I didn’t realize is that the fill pipe is short, designed to fill the tank halfway.. We’ll see how that works, and if I don’t like it I’ll put the fluid master back in. What a learning experience.
I discovered that after filling up the tank. The weight made the tank sink in more and so causing the two bolts to be loose and water started leaking from the two bolts. And tightening each bolt back and forth one bolt then the other tell both bolts can’t turn anymore then a little bit more with your adjustable wrench. Might have to tighten still more if leaking.
I should have come here first. My only criticism is that you skimped on illustrations for the toilet tank gas gasket installation. I say that because the proper installation of that part was the only problem/question I had before coming here. None of the diagrams or articles I saw made it clear that it was supposed to be OUTSIDE the tank. (Guess where I installed it). Anyway, although I don’t believe you said which side of that gasket was supposed to be against the tank, I’m assuming that it’s the flat part. That’s the way I’ll apply it. I haven’t yet finished the job, but I now have enough confidence to replace the tank and tighten the bolts…again. IT WORKS!!! No more leaking, outside or INSIDE the tank . I might add that the advice I got from Fluidmaster’s “Help” lines, on the phone or via the Internet, was worthless, totally without value. Oh, one exception: they told me what Min. and Max .on the flapper referred to. Good for them. They got that right.
Every FluidMaster article I watch is a disaster with the bolts that come with the kit. In the other article I watched, the person had a 3 bolt system on his toilet but the kit only came with 2 bolts. Duh. This article gives the wrong diameter bolt. WTH is up with FluidMaster. I just replaced parts for my Kohler toilet and only ordered the original or substitute parts for it. I had no issues with the kit I bought at all. I’ll say it again like I did in the last article I watched, never reuse old bolts. Go to the hardware store and buy the right, original size bolts along with the rubber/metal washers and nuts. You’ll want all new parts installed when you’re done. This way you don’t have to worry about the old bolts breaking. They already looked pretty worn.
ok I got the 3 bolts undone pretty easily. but this is a kohkler toilet and has rubber washer inside and the other one the ‘washer ‘ didnt come off so I pushed it thru the bottom of the tiolet, god it was like giving birth!! Now I’m seeing that I dont have the clyinder that the water flows thru…. I just got the circular bottom part…. back to home depot again
Hey, People! If you are going insane trying to loosen that gigantic 3-inch plastic nut, and you don’t want to spend $30 on a new wrench, I discovered an easy workaround. Just find a “normal” pair of pliers and use the HANDLES to squeeze the nut and give it a twist. Works great, especially if the handles are rubberized.
I’ve replaced the inside of tanks before and just wanted a refresher. When this guy took OFF the TANK!! I thought I was in BIG trouble. Turns out I fixed it WITHOUT taking off the tank. Whew, was I glad. No leaks and the commode works fine. Anyone, you really don’t have to take the tank off to replace the flush kit.
My water pressure in my kitchen sink is almost at zero after installing this kit. I tried turning shut off valves under bathroom and kitchen sink and no go. Should I turn off the houses water supply valve a few times to make things better? I had to shut that valve off to keep water from flowing in the toilet when I started. Can you advise?
So…. replacing the ‘spitting’ filler pipe fixed the spitting. But the water was still running into the bowl. So after listening to 2 people advising that only the flapper has been needing replaced in their experience, I bought a flapper and replaced that. but alas, the water is still running into the bowl. so I guess I have to do the larger repair of taking the tank off and replacing the bottom hole of the tank fixtures.
Good article, but the white plastic retainer holding the old valve in place won’t budge.The problem with articles like this is that the article producers use new equipment and everything comes apart cleanly and effortlessly. In reality, people like me are using different wrenches and pliers trying to remove that white retainer that won’t come off. In most cases, time has cemented these things in place. So these articles are only good if you’re trying to remove a new valve from a new toilet. The plastic retainer is made to unscrew with just one’s hand, but after seven years it’s glued in its position. I don’t think the HULK could loosen it.
The building is about 15 years old. While the innards of my toilet still work I am contemplating just replacing them completely as a preventative measure. As my vision is extremely poor and is going to get worse I won’t be able to do any work on it now or in the future. Is replacing everything a good idea?
They forgot to mention why there’s a sprayer in the overflow! There’s actually a subtle form of automation in your toilet besides the on and off values. The fill rate is being used as a timer to run the jet which is the stream of water that goes directly down the drain hole. This jet makes the siphon over top of the trap and causes it to suck all the water out of the bowl. This means the overflow has duel purposes it carries the jet stream inlet (the sprayer) and the overflow. It’s not totally necessary to have the overflow also build the siphon but its useful for diagnosing problems with the toilet because the bowl will be continually low water level which is an easier way to see this is happening than shown in the article. You can actually take a water bottle and dumb it down there to see this in action.
An explanation of how to properly attach the chain to the lever would be good. I have always put the hook over end of the lever arm, but I see from the article that the hook actually goes through a small hole in the arm, and then a chain link fits on the end of the arm. I wish I had known that 20 years ago! Every toilet I’ve ever seen has the hook on the knob, which I guess isn’t right. Next time my chain comes off the arm, I’ll put it on correctly.
Dear, This Old House I recommend sending a hard copy of this article to the old man who lives at… 1600 Pennsylvania AVE, Washington, DC 20500 …as he keeps ranting about flushing toilets 10 or 15 times. Apparently he has no clue that a toilet’s fill level can be adjusted, and if what he is saying is true, his toilets are set far too low. He’s even proposing legislation or presidential orders to solve a problem that doesn’t exist. Please help him out as it is a very sad situation to see a senior citizen who is baffled by new technology (toilets with adjustable fill levels) make such ridiculous statements based on his own ignorance. Sincerely, A citizen concerned about the welfare of senior citizens who are battling dementia.