Low-flow toilets, or “low flush” toilets, use less water per flush than traditional models and can help households reduce water consumption. However, they may also cause clogs due to their reduced water volume per flush. Home Depot and Lowes primarily have 1.23 Gallons per Flush (GPF) toilets in stock, but you can also get 1.6 GPF toilets. According to Consumer’s Reports, more water sometimes means better flushing.
European toilets are resistant to clogging but need frequent cleaning. US toilets generally use a “siphon” system, while European toilets are a “washdown” type. To improve a low-flow toilet flush, address the most common reasons why toilets become chronic cloggers.
Consumer’s Reports states that more water sometimes means better flushing. All of their best-rated toilets use 1.6 GPF. New toilets have smaller diameter throats than old ones to facilitate syphoning of waste products by lower volume.
To prevent clogged toilets, follow proper flushing practices and avoid common reasons for low-flow toilets. Common reasons include fill valve adjustments, partial clogs in the toilet, and vent stack needs. A backed-up septic tank or sewer line can cause a toilet to flush sluggishly, and if it is, pump it. When the drain or pipe of the toilet is blocked or clogged, it restricts the flow of water and often causes it to back up and overflow.
📹 3 Ways To Stop A Clogged Toilet From Overflowing
You never know when you might need to stop the rising water in an overflowing toilet that has a clog. Different homes have …
Are low-flow toilets more likely to clog?
Low-flow toilets have drawbacks, including the difficulty in achieving sufficient outflow, leading to problems like clogging and unpleasant odors. San Francisco’s push for low-flow devices in 2011 caused major problems for the sewage department, causing backups and unpleasant smells. High-efficiency toilets are recommended for flushing only waste and toilet paper. Additionally, double flushing can occur, as these toilets sometimes need an extra flush to get everything down the drain. To troubleshoot low-flow toilets, follow these techniques:
- Turn off the water supply to the toilet and turn off the water supply to the water heater.
- Replace the toilet’s water tank and replace the water filter.
In conclusion, low-flow toilets have drawbacks, including the difficulty in achieving sufficient outflow and double flushing.
What happens when the toilet water is low?
Low water levels in a toilet bowl can lead to weak flushing, blockages, and other issues. Wrong flushing occurs when there isn’t enough water to flush waste properly, and blockages can cause a siphoning effect, exacerbating the issue. This can be frustrating, especially when multiple flushes are needed to clean the bowl.
Severe issues like clogs and unpleasant odors can also occur due to low water levels. Clogs occur because reduced water flow doesn’t clear pipes effectively, leading to plumbing issues that may require professional intervention. Unpleasant odors arise because low water levels fail to create an effective seal against gases in the sewer system, and mineral buildup can occur due to stagnant water.
While low water levels may seem like a minor issue, the consequences can be significant and unpleasant.
Do low-flow toilets cause backups?
Low flow toilets are often purchased by homeowners who lack sufficient water or pressure to clear their sewage system, leading to costly and unpleasant sewage backup issues. To avoid this, it is essential to consider alternatives that can still lower water consumption without backing up pipes. The federal government mandated that all newly installed toilets use 1. 6 gallons of water per flush in 1992, with some modern models even using 1. 2 gallons to 1. 3 gallons per flush.
Why low toilets are better?
Comfort height toilets are ADA compliant, making them accessible for people with disabilities. They are easier to use, especially for taller individuals and the elderly, and don’t require additional accessories like a toilet riser or elevated seat. However, they may not be suitable for shorter individuals or children, and their larger size may not fit in tight spaces. Per ADA requirements, a comfort height toilet must have at least 16 to 18 inches of space from the center to the surrounding wall. Overall, comfort height toilets offer several advantages over other toilet types.
What is the number one cause of clogged toilets?
Toilet clogs are a common issue, often caused by excessive use of toilet paper. Common causes include putting non-flushable objects down the toilet, accidentally flushing, or using too much paper. Watters Plumbing has experienced clogs from various items, including keys, phones, and toys. Many customers accidentally clog their toilets and deal with them incorrectly, leading to ongoing plumbing issues and costly repairs. To avoid causing lasting damage, it is essential to learn about common causes of clogged toilets and how to fix the problems without causing lasting damage.
Using too much toilet paper is the most common reason for toilet clogs, and it is often the easiest to deal with. It is important to be aware of these potential issues and take steps to prevent further damage. By following these tips, you can help prevent clogged toilets and ensure a clean and efficient bathroom.
What are the problems with low-flow toilets?
The optimal functioning of low-flow toilets is essential for the prevention of clogs and other plumbing system issues. This is achieved by ensuring that waste is sufficiently propelled down the drain. In the event that water pressure is inadequate, the toilet may not be able to eliminate waste with a single flush or function as intended.
How to keep a low-flow toilet from clogging?
To prevent toilet clogging, use less toilet paper and use one-ply or cheap toilet paper that is less absorbent. Avoid using feminine hygiene products down the toilet and flush for low flush toilets, old sewers, and hard water. Regular sewer rodding and jetting can help keep sewer lines clean and free of build-up. Flush the toilet pipe and drain by filling the cistern with household wastewater and flushing more than needed. If water saving is not a concern, flush again regularly. In Chicago, most sewer lines are old and cannot effectively remove waste with lower waste levels.
Do low-flow toilets flush well?
Pressure-assisted low-flow toilets use compressed air to enhance flushing power, providing strong, forceful flushes that clear waste with minimal water. They are less prone to clogging and suitable for large households or commercial settings. Dual-flush toilets offer two flushing options: low-volume for liquid waste and higher-volume for solid waste, allowing users to reduce water consumption. Both gravity-fed and pressure-assisted models are available. However, some homeowners still have concerns about low-flow toilets, such as noise and clogging.
Why do the toilets in my house keep clogging?
Toilet clogs often occur due to the S-trap, which is a common location for items like non-flushable items, excess toilet paper, or waste. Unclogging the S-trap can help resolve the issue. Plunging can move most clogs along, and a flanged toilet plunger can increase water pressure. A toilet auger can also be used to remove clogs. Insert the auger into the drain and move it forward until resistance is noticed. If resistance is just beyond the drain, the S-trap problem is likely. Rotate the auger to break up the material and remove any remaining material. If this doesn’t work, contact a plumber.
Are some toilets more prone to clogging?
Clogged toilets are often caused by old, low-flow models, which are designed to save water but are also prone to clogging due to excessive flushing of materials like toilet paper or baby wipes. If your toilet was built before 1994, it may be beneficial to replace it with a newer, more efficient model. Congested drain lines can also cause clogging, especially if the drain pipe is small and not designed to handle large amounts of waste products.
The toilet trap, an S-shaped pipe beneath the toilet, holds water and creates a barrier between the home and sewer gases. If blocked, the water supply may not pass through the toilet, causing the bowl to overflow. Upgrading your toilet can help prevent clogging issues.
Do low-flow toilets use less water?
The average volume of water used by a standard toilet is 7 gallons per flush, whereas low-flow models typically use only 1 gallon. The volume of water used is approximately six gallons, with some models demonstrating greater efficiency.
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i’ve done plumbing for some time and worked in a Home Depot plumbing dept. for 8 years at one point. first, you cannot use a plunger if the water level is close to the top of the bowel. when you push on the plunger, it will force the water over the top of the bowel. wait until the water has drained at least half-way down the bowel. second, if you buy a plunger, only buy a RUBBER one with the circular extension on the bottom – do not buy the cheap plastic ones! the rubber ones will conform to the size and shape of the bowel opening and make a good pressure seal while the plastic ones will not seal as well. the guy’s advice in the article about using dish washing liquid and/or hot water really does work. and obviously, drain clog liquids also work. finally, this procedure is a final “emergency” option. get a wire coat hanger from your closet and straighten it out completely. on one end where you will hold the hanger, bend a loop to make it easy to hold. stick the hanger down into the bowel and shove it into the opening as best you can and move it around. most clogs occur right at the opening of the toilet in the bottom of the bowel or slightly up into the toilet trap. if you look at the side of your toilet and see that “snake-like” figure on the side of the bowel, that is the trap. when you have cleared the clog, pull the hanger out, wash it well and spray sanitizer on it and then put it in the back of the vanity under the sink for the next “emergency” clog. one last bit of advice about using a toilet, and i will try to be delicate here.
Be careful about using hot water in a toilet. My dad used to use that trick, and it eventually melted the wax ring enough that it started leaking. If you have one of the newer wax-free rings, you should be okay. But, hot water will never work as well as a plunger, anyway. The trick to using a plunger effectively is to take a two-step approach. First, push the plunger down once slowly to get the air out without splashing water too much. Second, without breaking the seal at the bottom of the plunger, move the plunger rapidly up and down, but only move it about an inch (at most) in each direction. That will loosen up the clog very quickly without splashing water everywhere.
Before I watched this article, I did try the Dawn dish soap trick, using a generous amount and ended up with tons and tons of bubbles. I also tried two different good plungers. I now have a gallon of Green Gobbler in the bowl. It has been sitting there for five days. I have been scared to try flushing again, because I didn’t want that stuff going all over the floor if it overflows. But, now that I’ve watched your article, I know how to prevent that. Thank you. Now, I have to get up my courage.
The phone jack next to the toilet got me cracking up. Reminds me of grandmother’s house, has one in her bathroom, on the wall opposite the toilet and between the bathtub and toilet. When my mother was a teenager in the 80s she would chat with her boyfriend on the rotary phone while getting her hair and makeup ready for her date. If only today’s kid knew how wild the 80s were 🤣
Thank you for sharing this article. Picture it: It’s after midnight, everything is closed expect Walgreens and they’ve completely run out plungers. Tonight will be a disaster…… The House Saver: Your article has saved my money, a night of unpleasantries, and a now happy household. Thank you, Scott @everydayhomerepairs 👍🏾👍🏾Perfect 2 thumbs up!
If it’s clogged, and you’re scared it’s going to overflow: best method is squeeze several squeezes of dish soap (any kind) and let it sit for about 30 min. No hot water needed. Then flush. Works every time. True story: my grown kid’s toilet was clogged for 2 weeks. Don’t ask why they let it go that long. I walked in with dish soap and fixed it in minutes. Also: I’ve put new American Standard toilets in all my last 4 houses. They’re the ones that flush 25 golf balls. (In those commercials)They almost never clog. They pretty much render a plunger almost unnecessary.
THANK YOU FOR THIS! I watched it the day it came out and thought “Thats pretty cool.” As luck would have it, this afternoon one of my kids clogged a toilet. Ugh… My wife went to get the plunger but I said “Don’t do that — get the Dawn.” (She looked at me like I was crazy… 😆) The water was slowly seeping out the bowl. I put a generous amount of Dawn dish soap in and let it sit for 15 minutes. I came back and dumped a small Pyrex bowl of very hot water. I let it sit for a minute… and then flushed. IT ALL WENT RIGHT DOWN! I hate using a plunger because it is so messy. This worked PERFECTLY with zero mess. Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU! 🙌🏼 This needs to go viral!
Very interesting, in England we don’t have that secondary pipe that bypasses the cistern. I recently visited Canada and I believe they have the same systems as shown here. I blocked toilet there and because I am a professional plumber I and it was New Years eve, I went to Canadian Tire and bought a plunger and snake to sort it out because it will be a cold day in hell the day I pay someone to do my plumbing.
I’m a bit different. For decades, I have used a length of 12 gauge copper wire to replace the chain between the flush lever and flapper valve. Loop the top part of the wire to fit into the appropriate hole on the flush lever. Put a smaller loop in the other end of the wire, and use a small cable tie to loosely attach it to the flapper. You’ll need to customize the length of the wire. If the water begins to rise to an uncomfortable level, I gently pull up on the flush lever, which forces the flapper to seal immediately. I haven’t had an overflow since. (Don’t pull too hard or the wire will bend and then the flapper will not seal!) I must replace the cable tie a few times per year, and eventually the copper wire will corrode and need to be replaced, but no overflow worries is worth the small effort. And I’m not in panic-overload trying to choose one of the multi-step methods you mention! (Not intending to minimize your suggestions!) Two points to make: First, you must be a bit handy with tools and able to “see” how things work. Second, you must adjust the wire gauge size to your particular toilet and flapper. If you use too heavy a gauge, the the flapper will not stay up long enough and thus will not flush properly.
To anyone installing a toilet please: we all know someone’s going to clog it eventually. If there’s anywhere to use a quarter turn valve with a big handle it’s the valve right before the toilet. Stop installing multi-turn valves there. Seriously, over the lifetime of the toilet, how many overflows are likely to be prevented by using a valve with a large, brightly-colored handle instead of one that takes several seconds to close, statistically speaking? If there’s anywhere to not just use whatever the cheapest valve is, it’s there. You know it. I know it. Let’s not pretend that the inevitable isn’t going to happen and then the person who caused it isn’t likely to spend precious seconds panicking and hoping it will just clear itself before it overflows.
My toilet had been clogged and for a number of days beforehand I noticed the flush was getting weaker, and weaker and water was filling up a bit higher than normal during this time. I suspected that there was a small clog or some type of buildup in the drain. I decided to use the dish soap and hot water route to clear things up all the way down. Took a few tries but the hot water and dish soap cleared everything up very nicely, now the toilet is flushing great again. I recommend everyone try this instead of jumping to the plunger right away, instead of boiling water I’d use hot water from the tap instead as boiled water can damage the toilet itself as well as the pipes.
You helped me to fix my issue! By turning the water off, then flushing the toilet again and then turning the water back on, that reset my the water level in my toilet. My wife actually was the one that flushed the toilet (I went nuts when she did it, but it looks like she knew better, lol), so thanks to her for an assist, as well! Have a great one!
I’m a 41F homeowner on YT looking for reviews regarding the typical household name brand “Drain-os” and came across this, watched it, got out of bed and got the Dawn Disbsoap and poured it in the sink and toilet bc they have both been VERY SLOW with draining and flushing. Waited around 30 minutes, filled my dog’s large water bowl in the tub with the hottest setting. The sink drained after two “flushes” of extremely hot water and I added about 5 bowls worth of the very hot water into the toilet without flushing, waited a couple of seconds, flushed, then added another 3 bowls until finally it drained normally. SO GLAD that I now know this trick!! THANK YOU 😊 🙏 for this!!
1,2,3 right down the line. I would not recommend anyone heating water to pour in the bowl. On rare occasions it can crack the bowl, but more importantly, Trying to pour 16lbs of molting h2O is probably not going to end well. 120* f out of the tub tap should do nicely. Dish soap is non-caustic so you are fine there……. WARNING WARNING WARNING WARNING DO NOT USE any caustic chemical to attempt to clear a drain. ANY DRAIN! If you are the Service Tech ask your customer if they have used a chemical, ANY CHEMICAL, to clear the drain. If they have, suit up, glove up (to the elbows) and face mask. This may sound a bit over board, but hydrochloric acid and sulfuric acid, used in ALL off the shelf drain openers WILL burn you! If you are the home owner/customer PLEASE inform your plumber or service tech if you have used a chemical on ANY clogged drain. Clogged drains should be cleared mechanically, Plunger, Zip tool, Drain auger or lastly disassembly in an orderly fashion to clean the blockage out.
If you need a toilet plunger, be sure to get a rubber one and not one of those plastic accordion deals. They don’t seal as well as rubber plungers. Also make sure you get a TOILET plunger and not a sink plunger. Toiled plungers will have a narrowing bottom to fit the toilet’s drain/trap. Sink (plungers have a flat, open bottom and they are usually shorter than toilet plungers.
If your toilet is clogged … never cycle the flush handle fully. Just pull the lever enough to crack the fill valve and allow only a bit of water into the bowl and stop the flow by letting handle go before water level gets close to the underside of the rim. Then you know you can plunge with some extra water head to help unclog. Hot tap water is a bit risky … you could cause the porcelain to crack due to the thermal shock. And a cracked toilet bowl is way worse as you will have to replace the entire toilet and clean up those muffins on the ground
I will share my rules for using the toilet while visiting…learned decades ago the hard way. Rule #1…never use someone else’s toilet if at all possible these tricky devices are quietly waiting for their next victim. Rule #2… if you must use it quietly check for the presence of a plunger…old stick…anything ! Finally Rule #3 and THE critial one.. ALWAYS pull your pants back up BEFORE risking a flush on unknown plumbing…trust me …it’s beyond embarrassing. 😹🤪👍💩💩💩💩💩
I used to go for the shutoff until I bought a new house in Arizona where the builders use plastic everything and it snapped off so then I had an overflowing toilet AND water shooting out of the wall. So keep that in mind if you live here, those valves snap off if you look at them the wrong way. Also all of the hots and colds are backwards in every house on my street for some reason.
Out of three toilets in the house I had one old 5 gallons per flush toilet. It started acting funny it was flushing but not very well, leaving bits of paper and floaties. I asked the Mrs for a toilet for my birthday. Woohoo, right? After install I took the old toilet out to the garage to smash it to throw it in the trash bin. Low and behold I found a round flat rubber washer like the one used in the overflow/ flapper pipe, all folded up blocking one of the flush websites going around the rim. The house is 30 years old and we’ve owned it for 5. I can’t think how that got there. The washer must have moved far enough in to partially block the flow! The new dual flush toilet from HD is working perfectly!
Rather than using the toilet tank to flush the toilet, I’ve been using a 3 gallon bucket to flush the toilet and I fill from the bathtub. The toilet tank developed a crack and I wasn’t about to replace the tank with one of these 1.6 gallon water saver “tiny tanks”. I found one of the advantages of using a bucket to flush the toilet is that the chances of an overflowing toilet are very slim. When I do a pee, I don’t need much more than 1/2 gallon to flush the toilet.
This isn’t anything negative towards you but I have never had it where a plunger didn’t work til now. I have tried dish soap and hot water and it⁷ didn’t work. My toilet is a mess if you know what I mean. I also tried vinegar and baking soda but that doesn’t work. The water never goes down. On top of that the plunger I got off Amazon doesn’t work. I should have gone to the store after it happened this morning and get a new plunger. Now it’s the next morning and nothing has changed. I could cry but I dont want to bother my manager if I can help it so I’m trying to fix this. The stores where I live don’t have those big augers so I guess I will try getting a small one. This is like the most irritating thing as a person to have to deal with. I poured that gallon of water after tge dish detergent and it never went down.
I always keep a 2L pail near the toilet and, if I’m a bit suspicious the contents of the bowl are not going to flush easily, I don’t flush the toilet at all. Instead, I fill up the pail and pour the water directly into the bowl so that it goes down the front part of the bowl and under the contents of whatever is in the bowl. This has worked on the first try every time I have used it except for one time and, on that one, it went on the second try. Using this method controls how much water is going into the bowl which means no fear of overflow like a flush where the water quickly rises and then slowly creeps towards the lip on the last part of the tank refill, so you are more in control of the situation. I have suggested it to friends and family to keep that pail visible so that people who come to your house don’t end up in an embarrassing situation. BTW, I don’t necessarily use hot water; however, that may actually work better.
I Wonder if anyone else has ever heard showers running just after you started your shower, while living in a apartment complex. Has anyone else noticed that even when you close your tub drain and put a drain stopper to keep the water in while you soak your feet, drain is still leaking out water. I noticed that even when I Did this, I noticed that I could hear water draining, even when I closed my drain and placed a drain stopper in my apartment tub it continued to allow water to drain. I live alone and I just wondered why this happens and if anyone else has experienced this problem before. Author Advocate, Activist for Humanity, Jason Sandifer, Michigan, 4/27/2023
I did apt maintenance for over 10 yrs. Had many clogged toilets to deal with. We had a 6′ snake to put down the drain. Also I used buckets filled with hot water to help loosen and move things along. Some problems require additional steps to end the problem. The complexes I had were family and 62 and older or disabled of any age. One resident was on 15 different medications some of which made the stool hard and did not want to follow the curves of the toilet. After a number of clogs I was finally able to get management to ok a power flush toilet that took care of the problem. Kids using too much toilet paper. Need to be trained to clean up with less as it needlessly wastes paper. I would instruct residents to pour a couple of buckets of hot water down the toilet drain once a week to help keep things clean. Also flushing part of the way thru session to keep a huge “pile up” from happening.
we have been dealing with a clog for a while, and tried some of these steps, we even got some main pipe solution for it to hopefully to clear out the pipes for a clean flush. Sadly, still been having a fill issue. We have done this step a few times, any suggestions outside of pumpers(we poor!) lol. Thanks
…sometimes, it’s not a classic “clog” but the float in the sump pit is hung up and the ejector pump hasn’t run for several cycles and water backs up through the plumbing, leaving the flush water with nowhere to go. What happens next can get nasty and make what seems like a respectable human being have to face up to what filthy animals we really are, you’ve gotta take the cover off the sump pit and free up the float. I t might require using another pump and a hose to drain the sump pit into the service line, but sometime just taking the cover off will jog things just enough to get the pump to run, then you can deal with whatever hung up the float…they should design a connecting wire with a handle that protects through the sump pit cover that you can operate to manipulate the float without taking the cover off…
Also can we stop mummifying our hands to wipe. Your own crap isn’t going to melt your skin off, sheesh. I live right on the US/MX border and some of my ppl tend to throw their soiled TP in the trash can since their plumbing at home isn’t always great it’s just a habit, so this is how I know cause I see the enormous wads of paper in the trash! And maybe get some more fiber and hydration and you wouldn’t be laying bricks in the bowl 😳
What to do if you flush a clogged toilet and you are not there on site to deal with it– you leave the bathroom assuming all is well and the toilet keeps running and spills out onto the floor. What’s likely needed is an electronic sensor attached to the water line or other appropriate place to turn the water off before the commode overflows. Why hasn’t someone brought toilet flushing into the digital age? The technology for latrines has not changed significantly in 80 years. C’mon guys. We need absolute control over toilet overflows without having to be onsite to deal with it. An automatic water shut off valve in the water line would sense the problem and immediately stop the water from continuously running and running, damaging a wide area of the house or apartment. The fixes here are old school and incredibly user dependent.
Thanks you really saved me I’m having a really bad day I did some things I I’m not proud of today them stayed up all night doing something I wish I never would have done then clogged the toilet and I didn’t want to explain to my parents what I did 😔 I prey that future me I smarter don’t make the same mistake plz not again this pain is worse then anything I’ve ever felt
I’m happy to report that I tried this & it worked perfectly. Toilet was overflowed with shit & one more flush would have spread the contents all over the bathroom floor making the situation far worse. I followed the steps with MORE dish soap than advised & I also heat up water almost to boiling using a stove (a little less than a gallon). Thank you, sir! 🤝 (hands washed)
I don’t ever have these problems anymore. The best investment i’ve made in my new home was replacing the toilets with pressurized toilets. One flush gets everything. You could flush an entire roll of paper and it eats it right up. Never an overflow. They cost more than gravity toilets but worth every single penny.
Stop Overflow: 0:20 – Don’t flush again if water level rises above normal, even just to see if it might roll down. 1:46 -Turn off the water immediately 2:03 – will be a quarter turn or a multi turn to turn off 2:24 – If no water valve / water valve not working (good to know ahead of time) – after flushing the first time, immediately take off the tank cover, lift float to cut off water supply (3:02). (Can put something under float arm to keep it lifted). 3:40 – lift the overflow tube and direct it into the tank so that it’s not putting extra water into the bowl but into the tank (which should be going down since the float is lifted. DIY Unclogging: 4:20 1) Let dish soap sit in the bowl (for one hour or so, however long it takes for the water to drain through, hopefully to loosen up the clog or increase likelihood the clog will be able to go through). Pour in 1-2 gallons of hot tap (120F) or boiling water, then flush. Sometimes works on first try, sometimes takes multiple tries. Dish soap should make plunging easier as well. Thanks Scott!
Remove the tank cover first, put it somewhere safe then try flushing enough to fill the bowl, if you wish. Old shut-off valves will often leak when turned off or reopened. Just just the tank valve to close the water supply. Water that’s too hot could crack the bowl and remember that the seal under the toilet is wax. After the bowl water, etc. has gone down far enough and you want to try another “flush”, just use a bucket to add the water to the bowl and then you won’t have to bother with the tank again at all. Old toilets will do this because of calcium deposits in the siphon accumulated over the years. It can be removed by soaking in sulfuric acid over night. But it’s dangerous and must be done very carefully with lots of protection by someone who knows what he’s doing. I’ve done it in the bathroom but think I can do a better, more thorough job by taking the toilet outside.
Sadly, I got in trouble when I used the dish liquid method once (I left the dish liquid bottle in the bathroom, so basically left evidence of what I did) even though I know it sometimes works. It seems in some cases, you have to be sneaky when using it (basically, dish liquid needs to be put back where it was taken from right away), so it is a bit tricky if you are working on a time constraint.
Funny about the washer drain at 2″. Front load washers use so little water that I piped mine in 1 1/4″ pipe and it works fine. Had to use smaller pipe for this particular situation. I didn’t need an inspection but I’ve been a plumber for thirty seven years and have a lot of tricks that I found that work pretty well. Haven’t met too many inspectors that know as much as I do about the trade. Thanks for the vid, it was fun.
Thanks so much for that article!… I’m plumbing a new bath and it was most helpful… Question on cold supply to fixtures in relation to hot water heater. Plan on an on demand LP heater inside bath and would like to know if there is a distance code for supply entering heater.to keep from decreasing pressure to cold side in fixtures? My design places heater in close proximity to other fixtures… Hope that makes sense… Thanks.
You might fail if you did these after the rules changed, but not if the work was done to previous code- this may confuse people. adding dates to the program for when the new rules went into effect would help clarify this. Also- personal gripe/rant – the steel plates meant to protect a screw from piercing a pipe or wire are useless… test against an impact driver… you don’t even notice them when driving a screw through drywall. Adds complexity and cost without any real value. And you need to notch out a 1/8 inch to have a flush install of drywall atop of it.
You Cannot use a double wye fitting on a side by side or back to back lavs Your diagram is not proper A dbl sanitary tee or known as a figure 5 in ci can be used The Seal of the trap must be below the weir of the sanitary tee @ its vent Also the length of drain pipe to its vent, cannot be passed by 5’ or 4’ Depending on what code book you are using, to maintain the same
I have an existing rough in with a vent pipe going into the drain pipe below the grade. It’s not a cut pipenin the ceiling. Since the tough in is in a bad spot, I will be connecting to the existing vent in the ceiling and drawing it down the wall into the drain. I will not redo the rough in. Just leave it as an empty line in the exist location inside the wall. I don’t think this is afainst code since I am actuallt using the vent, as opposed to drawing a new vent line and leave it open in the baeement wall.
We have a 2.5 inch vent pipe in wall that goes up to roof cavity and connected to larger venting pipes. We also have a close by vent pipe that vents the shower up to the same roof cavity and connects to same venting system that goes through roof. So can we move the first vent pipe (very possible through basement) to a near wall cavity and then add some height and connect to the shower vent that is within 1.5 feet?