To make interior paint dry faster, adjust room temperature, apply thin coats of paint, improve ventilation, lower indoor humidity, and consider using water-based, low-VOC paint. Proper application techniques and heat sources can expedite the process, saving time.
Tweak the room’s environment to make paint dry faster by planning your painting environment, increasing circulation and ventilation, using heat-producing tools like hairdryers and infrared heaters, applying light coats, painting one wall at a time, and increasing air flow. Applying thin coats can help paint dry faster as the surface may dry but the layer beneath can remain wet for longer.
Open windows, use fans, apply light coats, don’t paint your second coat too soon, and know the difference between dry time and cure time. Maintaining good airflow and regulating humidity can help paint dry more quickly. A travel hairdryer is the best bet, as it is the smallest and most foldable dryer available.
Use a fast-drying medium like Liquin or Galkyd to significantly reduce drying times. Infrared heaters, hair dryers, and heat guns can also be effective ways to speed up the drying process. Good air circulation will help dry all areas of a wall, rather than just one section. Turn on fans and open all windows and doors, and place fans close to painting areas to help with air circulation on hot days and speed up paint drying.
In summary, adjusting room temperature, applying thin coats of paint, improving ventilation, using fast-drying paint, and optimizing the painting environment can help make interior paint dry faster. By following these tips, you can restore your room or furniture back to everyday use or normal as quickly as possible.
📹 How To Make Paint Dry Faster-Easiest Ways
In this video, I show you and tell you how to make paint dry faster. If you are painting a room and want the paint to dry at a faster …
📹 How to Paint A Room Fast Like A Pro (Tips for Beginners)
In this video, I show you tips and techniques that teach you how to paint your room or house better and faster than ever before.
I’m absolutely useless at painting and DIY, but have even surprised myself when glossing my living room door. It actually looks professional. My brother inlaw was amazing at decorating and I have remembered what he told me about painting with gloss. He was a sheet metal worker but had a nack at doing many things used to make replica antique firearms also. Non firing of course.
This is the best article I’ve seen on painting a room. I wish I saw this before I painted my living/ kitchen/ dining room. I will use all these tips on the rest of the house. The 18 inch roller makes it look easy. Thanks for this article. I’m gonna run to the home improvement store this week and start my project I have been procrastinating on, but want done.
There ARE NO tips to paint any room Fast, FASTER, fastest, like a PROp. Painting like plumbing and electrical work DOES take time!~ For these yahoos to say they have the fastest way of painting IT’s a sham. You DO paint slowly, checking for drips, un evenness, AND consistence! YOU ALWAYS have one dry rag and one wet rag for whoops all spills or overpaint areas. The FASTEST painters are called below average, as their painting style does show this point. Nuff siad.
I don’t think dusting the walls is necessary, it adds solids in the paint and helps with coverage. Also a tip from my late father, when cutting in the ceilings touch the ceiling just a bit. That way you don’t see the imperfect line created in the corners. Although you did good it can still be seen in your article.
The one big mistake that I seen from this happened right away. He did the brush work and roller work at different times. By doing it that way you will see where the brushwork ends and the roller work begins because they dry at different times. Always do both at the same time so that the paint blends together as it dries.
I always recommend a 14″ roller nap in a Wooster roller frame, NEVER use a Purdy roller frame, they have Teflon clamps, which wear and are useless within a week’s time, and then your roller will fall right out on you, the floor, you are gunna have a bad day. The Wooster will last for decades and actually costs less. Also, use a Premium 1/2 inch nap, it “sprinkles” less and holds more paint. A Purdy paint 5 gallon troph is best, however. The paint brush bucket bucket, the Wooster, again is better. It has a magnet too, but it is wider and flat for using a 4″ mini-roller with. The 6″ mini roller won’t fit into a paint can, so you have to use a troph, this slows you down. When you are done, you can place the 14″roller into the 5 gallon bucket and seal it up, no clean up at all.
An 18 inch roller gets heavy and hard to use when the walls have waves, which they often do. A 14binch works better and still covers 5 more inches per pass than the 9 inch. I still prefer the 9. It is critical to finish each roller pass with a downward motion to leave a uniform stipple pattern. As for cutting in below ceilngs or crown or abovr baseboards or around casings, if you want to see the former paint color after applying two coats of the new color, do as this guy says. If you want to see the new color only, cut right next to thr ceiling or trim on both cuts. Trust me on this, there are no cutting in shortcuts by skipping one coat, no matter how thin such as an eighth of an inch.
Weird perusal you wash your brush in the sink. This is a huge no-no in Australia! We are supposed to wash our brushes in a basin or bucket, let the paint settle, tip the “clean” water on the garden and wipe the paint sludge out of the bucket with paper towel. Great article though. I will definitely be looking for an 18″ roller. 👍
Fabric softener to clean brush and roller, etc. It will even get paint out of carpet. Put blue tape around the top of the brush, as it keeps paint off of that hard to clean area. A product called flotrol added to the paint slows down drying for a smoother finish. I have a plastic lid that fits on the paint can. It makes poring easier and seals the can to keep air out. I keep the paint can and other items in a plastic bin to prevent accidents.
Great tips! Getting ready to paint a new home and never would have known about leaving that small gap between ceiling and/or moulding on first coat! Just helped paint my son’s new home and wish I had known that tip to make it easier. I’m really good with trimming but this tip is a game changer. Touché!
This is the one thing I will ALWAYS do, whenever I am working on a ‘multi-days’ paint job: At the end of the day, I will put the brushes and rollers I’m using in a plastic bag (each its own) and close it tightly. Then I will simply PUT these bags IN THE FREEZER! The next day I will take them out again and my brushes and rollers will be (ALMOST) instant ready for use…. Give it around 20 minutes before actually starting the work to be on the safe side! (If I know upfront that I don’t need a certain brush that day, but in a week or so: just leave that brush in the freezer until I need it again. This must be within the same project though, can’t leave it for months laying there without cleaning of course!)
3 biggest tips that have really helpedy painting success and finish of the job 1) use a small 1.5″ brush to cut in & put on a heavy coat, then use a 4″ roller to smooth out the slightly larger amount of paint you put on with the brush. This basically eliminates any brush stroke visible to the eye. Then go back with your 9 or 18″ normal roller. 2) If you are changing colors and painting up to the ceiling, purposely allow a ~1/16″ of wall paint to get onto the ceiling. Your brain/eyes will catch even the tiniest amount of color change you missed on the edge versus brain/eye won’t catch the tiny amount of paint on the ceiling because there’s a clear transition. 3) Use a large 12″ or 18″ drywall knife to help you fill in wall transitions like corners, trim, ceiling etc. The angled blade allows you to get right into where you want it but keep you from painting onto the other wall, trim or ceiling.
My boyfriend and I are about to have to repaint the entire interior of a 2 story house ourselves (in a limited amount of time) that we’re gonna be moving in to. 😬 We have a bit of experience with painting, but I came onto youtube in search of some helpful tips and tricks to try to make the process less painful.😅 Im very glad i came across this article! I took notes and will be back to rewatch right before we go to gather the materials and start painting! Thank you!!
Always, always mask off evening before you even open the paint can. Mistakes will happen and you’d rather have it on tape than on the adjacent wall, door and window trim or baseboard. Also have absorbing clothes on hand with some paint thinner. This dude has all the money to buy expensive Purdy painters supplies but no experience. Don’t listen to this dude.
I live in an, what could be a Gorgeous apartment. It’s brand new, still under construction. I think I got the forgotten one 😂 😢 Everything is painted over, has this cracked in front of sink, and it’s new, quartz countertop in bathroom, with a ton of grout, on outside bottom of tub. Missing, not painted, holes on sides or dripping of paint or have gotten, from those, please excuse me bc I don’t really know what it’s called, those lil trim pieces below the baseboards?, and top of is caulking. Messy caulking, including the bathroom. Everything is caulking in these apartments I’ve lived in-new, too. I just don’t understand?! The front door/back patio doors are half painted anddddd those seals are not placed correctly, so door doesn’t shut properly. I’m stating this all because I don’t know what kind of brush(es) to use, to touch up the paint? for corners of walls?, how to match caulking?, bath everywhere, mostly sides and baseboards/trim,. Then that piece on bottom of inside door, like a lil flap, above door sweep, I don’t know if painted or caulked? But peeling to brown. It bothers me. Just a tad peeling. Supposed to be all White. It’s easy, but getting the correct tool(s) I need anyways, isn’t easy for me. Not atHome Depot 😂 They’re laughing at me, bc they can’t believe I understand lots, but showed pictures and they’re in shock-my older-“new” Apt. Those bottom trim/below baseboards and around everything on bottom need a painting or removal and repaint. These strips, I swear they place, to cover some part up, (they’ll do it-they’re great, but I want to), except a new piece of quartz😢 Longgg story/question is brushes to not make it look different than?
Super easy way to clean your roller after painting is leave the roller on the extension pole just as you were using it, lay over a 5 gallon bucket to where the roller is aimed to bttom of bucket free to spin… Shoot it w water hose. Spins all if the paint out of toller… Into the bucket leaving ZERO mess!
Use your roller to cut in. Make sure the roller is lightly loaded typically after you roll a zone on the wall you can use the roller to cut in. If you touch the ceiling, simply wipe it down with a wet rag. Same around sockets. Always roll first and where you are not able to cut in with the roller you can brush. I have been painting for over 50 years. This works well for me.
Retired pro painter here. My #1 advice- use good brushes! Do NOT go cheap! Purdy has excellent quality, for example. A good brush makes good painting possible and if you clean the brush good after you’re done, it should last a long time. I’ve used Purdy brushes so long that the bristles were worn down too far to paint well with anymore. But they still worked! Buy good brushes and you won’t be sorry.
😭Why YT you show me the good stuff now? A week after I painted the room?? lol Also any tips on why the room still smells like paint a week later? Have the windows open with crossflow going. Put in trays of baking soda. 🙁 Used an oil based primer to cover up the little hand prints from the kiddo who stole my lipsticks and painted on the walls… then two coats of latex paint over that.
Thank you!! This was so informative and easy to understand for someone who will need to paint walls soon. I just may survive! lol. I have one tip for you though. Please don’t wash your paint soaked brushes in the household sinks, you will eventually be calling a plumber. The latex clings to the walls of your pipes and will eventually clog. I only know this because of painting on canvas… Wash the majority of paint off in a slop bucket (dispose of properly) and then one is able to wash what minimal paint remains. Thank you again and here’s to beautiful walls and healthy plumbing! 😊 Cheers.
Top tip: Wear nitrile gloves (the disposable type mechanics wear). These gloves maintain dexterity unlike thick rubber gloves. They will save you so much time at the end as your hands will remain perfectly clean!! You can even wear them when you are cleaning brushes etc. I have felt so much better about my paint projects knowing I won’t have to scrape paint off my hands when I am done.
You didn’t talk about booking the paint. I suggest using a roller to go over your paint when you cut in to erase the brush strokes. When I clean a brush I use high pressure water to get all the paint out ftrom the inside of the bristles. If I want to reuse it right after cleaning I make sure I get as much water out as possible or it will make your paint watery, and drip. I beat the bristles (carefully) against the side of the sink or something outside. Don’t damage the bristles.
I used paint at Rona and took 3 coats to paint a white ceiling and ended up with buying two 4Gal cans. I used paint at HP named Berh and only one coat on ceiling, one coat of beige colour on the wall that had the same colour. They have 3 prices, get the middle price. BTW, rinses the new roller under tap water to clean off the lints then wipes off excess water with your hand. The moist roller will keep the acrylic paint fresh and smooth on the brush.
My paint doesn’t go on like this at all! I’m going up and down on the same line trying to get the paint to cover everything >:(. Then I keep seeing people apply it like it’s nothing! I’m using a 9″ woven polyester with matt emulsion paint. Am I doing something wrong? Because doing a wall like that would take hours for me and use a lot of paint.
Could I ask your advice? I removed a wall switch cover and it lifted some of the latex paint up and tore it. When I lay the torn part back down, all you can see is a hair line. Is there a way to properly repair this? The paint is in orange peel texture, so I’d like to avoid unnecessary sanding if possible. What do you recommend?
👍For DIYers try using a 14″ inch roller instead of the 18, the reason being is not all rooms/walls are square/straight between the framing so you will leave streaks. Also, when cleaning your new sleeves you can can wrap it in painters tape or damp it a bit and run your painters knife across the sleeve to till its dry and get all the loose lint off
Me and brother use to fight a lot as kids And as kids then we would punch the walls and make holes Lol over the times we started fixing those holes and painting walls ourselves without our parents finding out Wow then we looked at each other fuck we doing Should have started the painting buisness together 10 years ago lol
Good stuff. I will try the 18″ roller. One tip to avoid buildup on the top half of the brush. Tap the loaded tip of the brush several times on each side of the inside of your paint container rather than wiping the loaded brush against the top of the container. This keeps the top of your container nice and clean and slows the build up of paint near the ferule. Game changer when cutting in. Cheers.
18″ only if your surface is flat, wavy walls will be a nightmare. Roll the roller between your hands and take note the direction of travel. Seat it onto cage so it travels in towards the cage and not out. Painters tape or something similar around the threads of your rolling handle if it keeps coming loose.
1 never touch brunch to bottom of a container it breaks the tips of the bristles and gives terrible edges. 2 push drop sheets all the way in over quads or paint gets on the most difficult part to clean. Scraping a run will leave an area to fill, sand it till gone using touch and eyes to check and recheck. 3 straight cut always always always leaving a thin line on the edge creates a small edges that comprises the next edge. 4 don’t cut in so wide it leaves a difference in finish between brush strokes and roller stipple. 5 stand up straight while using a roller that small bend done on every movement creates lower back problems especially with using large rollers. 6 do not drag drop sheets as they could scratch floors with fine dust caught beneath sheet. 7 wrapping sleeves has 2 issues one being they begin to fine spit the other dryer outer fibre creating a heavy stipple.
right off the bat I see, to much cutting in being done for one person to be able to roll out the walls before the cut in paint dries. do not cut in a whole room at one time, cut in about 2 of you arms length at a time, any more then that & the paint will cure before you get to rolling out the body & then you’ll end up with sheen/gloss issues
What I do is I just paint a wall and I go from one side and then I usually just go up and down up and down like. For example when someone cuts a yard they go up and then they go to the next line like where the other grass is where the wheel will be. I just go up and down and I just continue to go from the top to the bottom top and to the bottom but it works for me
I followed all of your instructions but ran into a serious issue, after I finished and packed everything away I went back to look at the wall and to my surprise it was actually great, I got all the edges right with your tips, and it’s as smooth as can get, the issue I had was, as I was washing the brush in the kitchen sink, my wife approached me and stabbed me a little. It’s very painful, and things are getting slightly fuzzy, and advice?
My heart broke when you washed the paint down the sink. This goes straight to the ocean. Instead use a technique called pain floculation to clean the brush, then use a final rinse in the sink. Much less harm to the environment. A tablespoon of hydrated lime and aluminium sulphate into a bucket is all you need. It will last weeks and at the end you can dry out teh bucket and biff the paint. Good luck.
Overall that was a pretty good demo, a few things that I do differently, the angle of your brush cutting in made it a lot harder and a lot slower and less accurate, no need for that gap you left on the first coat, add a little water if it’s not perfect and hit the ceiling with about 1mm of wall paint for a perfect line, use a damp cloth to remove the dust and an inspection lamp on every inch of the wall at different angles, Purdey is no longer the choice of professional decs in the UK but still an ok brush albeit overpriced, I would still wash anew roller before first use.but for the most part you did an excellent job.