This guide provides a step-by-step guide on how to seal painted wood for outdoor use and protect it from the elements. The process involves cleaning, sanding, repairing, and priming the surface before applying paint. The choice of paint depends on factors like UV protection, water resistance, and mildew. Different types of sealers are compatible with different painted finishes and how to apply them.
Varnishes are clear, protective coatings that shield wood from moisture and UV rays, offering a glossy or satin finish. Berger’s offers an easy step-by-step guide on protecting outdoor wood from various elements. Sanding paper, a paintbrush, and woodstain or varnish are needed. Polyurethane forms a protective barrier that seals the painted surface and prevents damage like peeling, fading, and rotting. The best sealer for exterior-grade paint is another layer or two, and no clear coatings are necessary.
To prevent UV attack, add enough color or pigment to make the varnish opaque, making it a tough coat. Thoroughly sand existing coatings and clean off all dust. All remaining bare wood should be sealed with an exterior primer or exterior wood-stain.
To ensure smooth joinery, start by sanding down the joinery with fine-grit sandpaper. An automotive clear might be an option. Water-based Varathane Spar Urethane is recommended, but metal paints are not designed for wood, so Dulux Weathershield paints can prevent algae, moss, and staining, making your garden décor more durable.
📹 How-to Seal Wood for Outdoor Use DIY
How-to Seal Wood for Outdoor Use DIY Have you just discovered log furniture but don’t know where to start? Would you like to …
Can you coat wood with metal?
Metal coating on wood is a complex process due to the variety of wood types and the need for careful selection and preparation. Wood is porous and fibrous, making it crucial to seal it before applying a Metalier coating to prevent the coating from sinking into the pores and appearing patchy. Statement front doors are a popular choice for Metalier coatings, as they offer the solidity, strength, and weight expected from a solid metal door. While aluminum is also used for doors, wood is a popular choice for its durability and aesthetic appeal.
Can I use the same paint for metal and wood?
While metal paint can produce aesthetically pleasing results when applied to wood, it may also have the unintended consequence of soaking into the grain to a greater extent than desired. To circumvent this issue, it is recommended to utilize a primer or a thin mist coat prior to the application of the metal paint. While metal paints can be used on window frames and sills, they are not designed for use on wood. In general, the optimal locations for the application of metal paints are as follows:
What can I use to protect painted metal?
Everbrite’s UV Blockers protect against color fading and are recommended for high-touch surfaces with antimicrobial protection. Before applying the CrobialCoat, read the directions thoroughly and ensure the paint is completely cured. Thorough preparation is crucial, as shortcuts may not yield desired results. Clean and dry the metal thoroughly before applying the coating, removing dirt, grime, chalky oxidation, wax, or grease.
If chalk or oxidation is present, use a Prep Pad and plain water to clean the surface, wipe off residue with a wet microfiber, and rinse with plain water. Heavily oxidized surfaces may require more cleaning.
Can I use the same primer for wood and metal?
Zinc Phosphate Primer, such as those from Armstead Trade, Dulux Trade, and Coo-Var, is a high-performance, high-build primer with excellent rust inhibiting performance. It is ideal for projects involving wood and metal in the same structure, as it will prime both surfaces. To prepare a surface for priming, thoroughly clean it from dirt, dust, grime, mold, or other contaminants. For interior surfaces, use sugar soap and water to clean dirt, grease, or nicotine staining. Make a sugar soap dilution or use a premade spray and wipe the area with a clean damp cloth. Once the dirt is removed, wipe the area with a clean cloth to remove any remaining sugar soap traces.
How do you protect exterior wood paint?
Outdoor conditions can pose challenges when sealing painted wood surfaces, making it crucial to choose the right sealant. Outdoor Defense Oil is an environmentally friendly, nontoxic, and safe sealant for outdoor use and food contact. It is essential to follow the manufacturer’s drying times to preserve the wood’s integrity and prevent moisture from evaporating. However, don’t wait too long to seal the wood, as it isn’t water-resistant until it cures.
Additionally, consider the type of paint you’re using, as some paints, like Real Milk Paint, are absorbent, allowing the sealer to absorb into and through the wood. Other exterior paints, which are not absorbent, may not be suitable for sealing. Overall, understanding these factors can help you make the best decision for sealing your painted wood surface.
How long does exterior paint last on metal?
Metal sidings, such as aluminum and steel, can last 40 to 70 years with proper care and maintenance. They require an exterior paint project every ten years to refresh the surface and give the house a new look. Wood siding, made from organic materials, requires a fresh coat of paint every three to seven years to prevent rot and improve curb appeal. Stucco, an energy-efficient material, can withstand inclement weather but is still popular for its aesthetic appeal. Regular painting of stucco walls is essential for maintaining its longevity and appeal.
How to make painted wood waterproof?
To clean painted wood, mix TSP with warm water, lightly sand it, remove dust, and apply polyurethane sealer. Sand cured polyurethane can also be used. Applying more coats of polyurethane sealer can help preserve the wood’s appearance and prolong its lifespan. Sunlight’s ultraviolet (UV) rays are the main enemy of painted outdoor items, as photodegradation breaks apart the molecules that form the protective bond. Paint pigments, which absorb UV rates at a greater rate, also contribute to this destructive process. Therefore, it is essential to seal painted wood to prevent its degradation.
Will painted metal rust outside?
Metal rusts, even if painted, can still cause a poor appearance. However, it’s important to fight against corrosion. Rust is not synonymous with rust, but rather the brown stains formed from corrosion on steel. Simple forms of corrosion include rusting steel, galvanic corrosion, and uncoated aluminum. Rust forms on painted steel when moisture penetrates through pores or scratches, combining oxygen with iron in the steel. This process dissolves a small amount of iron, forming a solution.
How to waterproof paint on metal?
A thin layer of sealant should be applied to the painted metal surface and left to dry for several hours. Subsequently, apply one or two additional coats, allowing each one to dry for a sufficient period of time between applications. It is recommended that the sealer be allowed to cure for a minimum of 48 hours before the artwork is removed from the sealing agent. It is imperative to consult the product label for detailed instructions regarding the sealing of acrylic paint on metal.
Can you use wood and metal paint outside?
Both outdoor wood paint and metal paint are versatile options for enhancing surfaces and adding color to gardens and external areas. Both types of paint can be used to revitalize surfaces and add a touch of color.
How do you keep paint from coming off metal?
This document outlines the process of removing paint from a galvanized metal surface, addressing issues such as improper surface preparation, failure to use a primer, and failure to sand baked-on enamel finishes or glossy surfaces. The process involves removing loose paint, cleaning the exposed metal of contaminants, treating them with an etching liquid, rinsing the surface with clean water, applying a galvanized metal primer, and then repainting with a high-quality paint. It emphasizes the importance of proper surface preparation and proper sanding before applying paint.
📹 How To Keep Wood From Rotting For FREE
How To Keep Wood From Rotting For FREE. You can use this technique on fences, gates, trailers, decks, outdoor furniture, or just …
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Old farmers’ trick: stand your boards up in an old five-gallon bucket or pan with oil for a week on each end to completely saturate the end grain. Brush some on the surfaces too while waiting. There’s boards in my family’s 150+ year old barn floor that are older than my great-grandfather and they show no signs of deterioration.
Working with a third generation Swedish shipwright, I watched him use a mixture of equal parts of pine tar/ coal tar, turpentine, and raw linseed oil to protect anything made out of wood. It smelled and worked great. We would adjust the ratios to meet various needs. More tar gave us much better traction on sloped ramps and decks. More turpentine made the mixture absorb better. More raw linseed oil fed extremely dry wood. Used on an oak planked boat, it worked as an anti growth bottom paint.
I worked on an old conifer tree farm in MI in the ‘90’s. Almost everything we built was done with lumber milled on the farm. Any structure exposed to the elements was treated with the oil, transmission, hydraulic fluid, and gear oil left over from maintenance. I drive by the farm regularly and the fences, and other structures I helped build are still standing.
OK, Hoss. This is an old farm trick that has been used since the first oil change happened in 1891. For best results I would wait until early September when the wood is at its driest and no rain is expected. Apply the stuff out in a sunny, hot area so the mix absorbs to the max possible. And go 50/50 used oil and diesel. Filter the oil through a rag/funnel and use in the pump sprayer. That way you can blast the mix into spaces between the boards where they go into the website iron around the edges. Those blind areas are where the rot otherwise would start. You are “whistling Dixie through a tin horn,” pilgrim, using a mop around the edges. Blast the stuff into hidden areas with a pump sprayer. And you are supposed to be drinking beer during this process for the proper “don’t give a rip” attitude!
My uncle’s marina used to treat pilings and wood for the seawalls this way and it not only outlasted him,but it lasted longer than the newer treated stuff they put in 20 years later. They had tons of used oil from the equipment and he’d soak it during the winter for a few months 😮 in a big tank. He’d then let it drain until the weather warmed up and since nothing went to waste he burned the oil diesel mix in the old forklift and travel hoist after adding a splash of gas and filtering it through a old racor water separator/filter. It was a little smokey but the older stuff burned it just fine and I felt it was partially why they all had good compression with 10,000+ hours. He had rolled bearings in twice on the original top end of the one forklift 😂
I waited 6 months after I bought my 18 foot trailer to paint the wood with deck sealer, no smell or sticky oil residue. One gallon allowed me enough to liberally coat the entire trailer. The cost was $25 at Lowes, I used a brush and roller. I use my used oil to keep my shop warm in the winter, combined with wood for free.
I understand what you are meaning to say about the motor oil, and I genuinely agree with you. You didn’t really articulate it very well though. Ya sure crude oil is from the ground… but so is Mercury. That doesn’t mean we want to let it get into our waterways, poisoning people and wildlife. The reality is, like you said, anything that will protect the wood from pests and rot will also be damaging to the environment in excess. The best mitigation is to do this process indoors where it can soak into the wood before it can be washed off by rain, dew, etc.
I’ve been using this for years. Also works on fence posts. I put the fence post in the 5gal bucket with oil to my depth while I dig(auger) the hole, pull it out and put it in an empty bucket for a few min then bury it in the hole! We put in several fences in the eighties, some this way, some with pressure treated posts and some with no treatment. The ones without treatment lasted about 3yrs, the pressure treated lasted 8-10, and the oiled were ripped out 25yrs later for developers!
Grew up on a farm and we treated outdoor door with motor oil and diesel fuel mixture. We have fence posts that stood forty years in the ground. We also used diesel and oil to protect from termites. No, it’s not EPA complaint, but it works. We never put so much down that it threatened the water table.
On the family farm back in Wales, we have a dump trailer made from wood. We cal it ‘Y Drol’ which means the cart as in a cart drawn by a horse. That is because, that is how it started out its life probably back in the early 20th Century if not earlier. The only modifications it has had in its lifetime is a new screw for the dump (no hydraulics), an axle put on long before I was born (I am in my mid-fifties) with rubber tyres and of course, the drawbar making it suitable for towing behind a tractor and apart from the winding jack and the actual towing eye, it is a massive beam of wood. It has survived because it was smothered in sump oil over its lifetime. It could probably do with new tyres however, as the last time I recall them being changed was when I was around 10 years old!!
I would agree with you that these techniques work. The issue with using oil is not so much the base oil but the toxic additives that are used in the oil. I would seriously not recomend this. Your point about stains is true in terms of the ingredients and solvents but the difference with coatings is that they are not toxic when they have been applied and cured.
I have built wood forms for precasting specialty concrete items such as pads, anchors, cornerstones etc. for decades. I saved money by repurposing old motor oil mixed mixed with #3 diesel fuel as a mold release. Consequently those molds have survived (sitting out in the weather for months at a time between uses) forever. I have cut some of those old pieces to resize them or modify a mold, and you can see where the mixture has soaked into the wood as much as a 1/4″. My great, great, great grandchildren will probably be using these molds for ages to come.
I did our old wood fence that had never been treated in about 15 yr and just used 100 % used oil from the local garage,that gave it to me,15 gals for a 300 foot fence just one side, and just used an old concrete rough roller on a 5 foot pole, took me a while but just did it in my spare time looks great and waiting to do the other side this summer
When covid hit, I took advantage of the free time and replaced all the wood on my little utility trailer. Then I got some used motor oil and some oooold heating oil mixed 50/50 and bathed that wood till it couldn’t take any more. Did it again the next year. About to do it again. I think that wood is going to last a long time (barring any fires, lol.)
Yep, learned this from my Grandaddy. He also oiled the dogs too, to help with the mange. Grandmama didn’t want the dogs on the porch for several days after. Boots got oiled too, mostly from kicking the oily dogs off the porch. I think a guy I went to school with used it on His hair, or maybe He just looked that way, I never inquired. Gets personal, you know…
I love your trailer, but would love to see what kind of pop up tent that you have for such a trailer. Would borax powder make a good fire retardant for such treated wood? Would you need to wash it on with water the day before or will it mix with the oil without just being like sand or sawdust? Curious about a fire retardant because the trailer I bought was a burned trailer from hauling a car who’s gas tank was ruptured, caught fire and burned the car and the trailer too.
Be sure to carry tarps to cover loose gravel or any other load that needs protection. Had my windshield cracked a couple of times over the years. If the bed has gaps, you’re gonna drop a small bit of your load in the roadway. Also, I suggest mopping or rolling wood on all sides a few times before installation. Do it again later.
What I was taught to use is a mixture of boiled linseed with Japan dryer thinned with turpentine to soak in deep. This mixture was about getting the most out of antique wood movements used in clocks. I do recall my grandfather just coating the wood ladders with linseed oil 40 years ago. I was too young at the time to know or ask if anything else was added. Going the oil route for protection makes a lot of sense for a couple reasons and more so on a trailer deck. The strongest wood coatings just sit on the surface, and all with be easily damaged by common trailer use with chains, rendering them useless or worse yet able to absorb moisture and not let it out.
Nice job on your trailer! When I did my 18` trailer I used ( 8 ) Stainless Steel recessed folding 6000 LBS rings that I had to cut a hole half the depth of the 2×6 boards in order to mount them flush with the top of the deck. Be sure you hit the retain sleeve of the ring to tighten the hoop of the tie down so the rings won`t jingle/rattle driving down the road. I use the mounting plates to get the bolt hole patterns and drilled them out and I used Stainless 5/8″ X 3″ bolts with 1/4 ” Thick aluminum backing plates under the trailer so the bolt wouldn`t pull through the 2x6s, the nut that I used, used to be called “Top Locking Flange Nuts” …. Now they call them “Prevailing Flange” nuts! the use of using all this Stainless was a bit more money but I will never have to touch my trailer again! This is what I did to my Steel trailer and I got an extra $900 over what I had in it, The trailer was a year old and was starting to show a need for paint so I bought a all Aluminum 16` and did the same thing with the TIE DOWN rings,. The rings were on the internet for $6.50 ea. if you bought 10
I appreciate the “redundant” article, I’ve heard a lot of people say to do this, but I don’t think I’ve seen it demonstrated successfully on something that’s used regularly…. Not sure if anyone will be able to take the time to answer if they do see this, but I could really use some advice! I’ve been going off of vague ideas/advice, YouTube articles, and trial and error, but every now and then I come across something that makes me smack my forehead and wonder why I hadn’t thought of it sooner, but I’ve been trying to figure this one out for a while…. I have an old boat trailer that was given to me, I fit a few 4x4s inside the frame, then screwed down some scrap 2x6s long ways (probably about 7’ long) then where the front of the trailer starts to taper, I screwed the 2x6s down sideways and cut them each a little shorter to follow the shape of the frame. I was wanting to sand the boards smooth before I sealed them (planning on using this method now) but a few people have told me not to, that it’d be a waste of time and the boards wouldn’t last as long, any opinions? I’ve been trying to figure out how to add some fenders without welding or buying anything super pricey, I don’t think they’re absolutely necessary, but I’m positive there’s a way to do it I just haven’t figured out how yet, anybody have ideas or a link to a site with some ideas? I would really like to add some short sides with some tie down hooks, but again, without welding, and I cannot figure out how to attach them so they’re sturdy, not just barely hanging on to the edge deck boards.
I added some deck lights to the front that shine over the deck, and a pair of reverse lights behind each fender. Your 7way plug will already be wired with a constant hot, and reverse light circuits (unless you’ve got something you wired up aftermarket and you didn’t hook those up). Another nice addition is a winch.
I know something that would make the environmentalists heads blow right off their neck. Out in the country where my Grand Pa lived on a dirt road, we used to collect all the used motor oil we could get our hands on and coat the road down good to keep the dust down. Man, it worked great and all the others that lived on the road did the same in front of their homes as well. It also worked to keep the ruts down!
Know a bunch of farmers that have done that for decades. Only main issue with used oil is the heavy metals it picks up. As a 50+ year carpenter, I was taught to use BLO! Boiled Linseed Oil, lol. You can thin it with mineral spirts, bit it soaks in well, the spirts leave a bit if a sealer. Its what is recommended for shovel handles, etc…
I treated a wooden fence that was built in the late 80’s like this. I went to the local oil change shop where I get my oil changed and asked them if I could have five gallons of used oil. The gave me all I wanted for free. I mixed it 50/50 with diesel fuel, then ran it through a coffee filter on each fill up of my sprayer. It worked wonderfully. The only downside is that when spraying it will kill the grass temporarily for six inches or so on each side of sprayed fence. Other than that it looks great and after a week or so, no smell. I think that it will last a few years. I could not be happier.
ALL MY OUTDDOR WOOD PROJECTS ARE PAINTED with Titebond 3 Waterproof Wood Glue, and then painted with porch paint. It produces a hard, durable, waterproof seal. A method I use to make a slip-proof walking surface, is to lay down a coat of Titebond 3 Waterproof Wood Glue then quickly sprinkle coarse sand on the glue before it dries. That makes the surface even more durable, and would be awesome for this trailer.
Back in the 1960’s when I drove for Schwerman Trucking, we were told to wipe down our black semi tractors when we got back, with used motor oil . Talk about a shine. That was the only company I drove for that did that. That was also the only black tractors I ever drove. I never heard of any other company that did that. I never saw any rust on them .
Hey all, if you can still get boiled linseed oil, from your paint and or hardware stores, several coats of the lindseed oil and thinner in the following ratios … 75% thinner to 25% lindseed oil followed by 50 / 50 of both followed by straight linseed oil as a top coat . It will soak in deep and last a long time… Works best on older wood as it has lost all of its natural oils so it is not rot resistant any longer… I have used it on old siding on structures and the paint has stayed for 15 years where it used to fall off in sheets after 5 years. Oh yeah is you use any rags mops etc… and you let them sit in a wad or ball with the lindseed oil on it IT WILL SPONTANEOUSLY COMBUST… AND BURN YOUR STUFF DOWN. IT IS BEST TO LAY THOSE ITEMS OUT FLAT AND LET THEM DRY COMPLETELY before disposal….
There are a lot of untrue things when it comes to oil. Like people saying if you spill a bit of oil in your yard it will drain down through the soil and get into the water aquifers. lol. It won’t. I’m like, dirt and sand will stop your oil filter up quick! lol. Then I tell them that you can park oil-leaking vehicles in the same spot for centuries and create a massive oil spot, and if you scratch the surface of that 40-50+ year oil stane you’ll find clean dirt/sand about a half inch below it. lol. Another thing used burnt motor oil is really good for, is treating and curing mange and what they call hot spots on animals. An 89-year-old man who was a veterinarian for over 50 years told me that in 2008 when I came across two dogs someone dumped that had the mange so bad they didn’t have a hair on them, and were just covered in sores. And the local vets’ didn’t want them brought to their offices, So I took them home and put them in 2 12 x 12ft dog kennels together to make one 12 x 24ft, and I drained the oil out of my riding tractor and took an old kitchen towel and rubbed that oil over every inch of them really good, left it on them for 24 hours then gave them a good bath and re-applied oil once again for 24 hours, then bathed them really good with Dawn dish liquid, and kept bathing them once a week, and could see them healing, it took a while for all their hair to grow back, but when it did they were beautiful dogs, and they never got the mange again, we kept them and had them for many years before they got old and passed on, and they never had an issue.
To just be that guy that will comment on the environmentally friendly aspect you mentioned. Other finishes dry. Motor oil doesn’t. It will leach off and contaminate ground water, unlike the other stuff. Not that one person doing this will make much of a difference since cars leak oil all over the place, but you can’t just hand waive everything away saying “bahhh all that other stuff if bad too” because they’re not equivalent.
I am definitely not using a diesel/oil mixture on my house siding, deck, steps etc. The smell would drive my wife to move out (some of you are saying, “That’s a bad thing?” ) and even I would not stand it for more than a day or two. As for a trailer, I believe whenever it has rained and the trailer is wet, this is going to be rather slick. Yeah, I really want to be sliding maybe falling as I try to strap my equipment down. Sometimes “free” is not so great!
With over 700 comments so far, someone else has probably said this already so I apologize but my only suggestion is next time, unbolt your planks and set them on sawhorses so you can fully treat the ends and both sides and edges of each board without slopping up your trailer frame, wiring, etc. and your parking area too, if that matters. This will let you avoid most of the nasty cleanup chore on your very nice trailer and results in a much more thorough and even penetration of your sealer, and gives you the chance to easily treat everything again if you like before you reinstall.
These oils won’t polymerize in the air. I accidentally used linseed oil once, and it started to have a film layer on the top of the can after a month or so, mixed with used engine oil. So after that, I always add some linseed oil into this mix. Otherwise, your wood will always be sticky. Looks like linseed oil can harden engine oil as well. I guess used cooking oil will work as well, but that hardens into a softer, soap like material. Also, don’t mention it came from underground, because people will dispose their engine oil into holes in the ground. It now contains many harmful chemicals, so that’s a bad thing to dump.
In the old days, the waste oil was spread over the gravel road in front of the house. Worked great to seal the road, also would keep the dust down. Some farmers spread the waste oil on the back of the pigs, it would keep the bugs away. Of course someone in the government said that waste oil is a carcinogen (I don’t know if it is), so we had to stop using it this way.
Well, I know one thing diesel smells really bad, if you go down to Mexico and go into the little shops, they all smell like diesel because they use that to keep the cockroaches away, so I can imagine what this smells like with the oil combined but hell if you’re leaving it outside, who cares it probably works pretty damn good😮
Absolutely do not do that. That deck will get oily and slick everyone it gets wet. Not only that if you have to lay on the deck to secure vehicles you will get all nasty from the oil transferring to you clothes and body. But it will darn sure make your deck super slippery. I have 4 million miles over the road pulling stepdecks, double drops, flatbeds etc. and I always used Thompson’s water seal. I would put it in a sprayer and spray the deck about once a year. When I sold my last stepdeck they wanted to know if I ever used it because the deck looked brand new. My buddy slicked his up with used motor oil and after slipping and falling off his flatbed a few times and getting absolutely nasty chaining down equipment he learned to never do that again.
Some people would make a vat of this and let the fence poles soak in. Heard of people cutting trees and standing them in diesel. The leaves continue to draw water up the trunk . The tree treats itself by pulling the diesel up into the wood. VOCs…..people never look up what that actually means. The O is key.
Oul is the best wood treament you can get i have a log home i use a oil base stain the stuff you buy from lowes homedepot or any paunt store is pretty much junk I’ve used some on treated wood and it rotted within two years wood has to be able to breathe most stains seal the wood and water gets trapped and cant get out
Been reading all the comments for 15 mins and havent seen a single question about this. So maybe im the dumb one… If i use this on a deck for a house, and lets say someones cigarette ash or embers drop on the deck, will i not go up in flames immediately? How does flammability compare to normal pressure treated wood?
If you want/need good treated lumber (and are not averse to some DIY) keep an eye out for telephone/electric pole replacement going on. Those are still treated with non-environmentally friendly chemicals. I’ve gotten several for free from accidental pole damage (car hits pole) the utility people will usually load the broken one right onto your trailer. I’ve found several pole replacement crews who will happily text me when they are on a run in my area – it saves them time.
Farmers s ometimes have couole gallon diesel in cam wintered over mat have gotten some water in it & used motor oil or old jug motor oil se er a l years old with bit water …old leaky buildings..high summer humidity..mutiole vehicles/ tractors, etc, 2 old sheds examples…why i can see ending up with old deisel, etc..and old trailers older than the article doesnt need to be pretty or good smelling may not be under a roof… part or all of year…i appreciate the idea & demonstration the old petroleum products have to be dealt with & farmers not hauling it 250 miles for few gal to cuty proper disposal place. That cost more gas envirinment damage driving could be 300 miles for some… Just think ..big rural farmer burn old used oil in old furnaces for heat ing the big tractor/shed/ garages thats not environment friendly either….
OK, carpenter here. This is not the same as oils used by professionals. This does work, and well, for anything thats not going to have skin contact. Do not use this on furniture. Oils used on furniture dry differently, and most are intended to have a sealer coat applied on top of them. I personally wouldn’t use this on a screened in porch, as this oil is going to continuously off gas, and the screening will slow down the gas’s ability to dissipate.
Thanks! I need to re-deck a 20′ gooseneck. I can’t believe how quickly this 3 year old pressure treated wood has rotted without a sealer. Oil & diesel will coat the new deck. I may cut all the boards to fit, spray a coating of diesel & let it soak for a weak or so before installing on the trailer. Great ideas, Thank you!
This kind of wood treatment was commonly used in the UK for years, my family would treat timber posts and fences with it as it could be bought ready to use from most DIY stores. These days it been connected to some cases of cancer so please take care not to get any on your skin wear gloves etc. The original version isn’t so easy to find in the shops because of the health problems so we have to make do with the replacement or like you have to mix your own. Thanks for your article’s but stay safe👍
I did this to my car hauler trailer last year. A friend of mine told me about using old motor oil to protect the deck so I thought I would try it. I used straight motor oil with no diesel added. My trailer was already about 16 years old at this time and the deck had never been treated so it soaked up the oil very well. I ended doing two coats with a couple of months in between coats.
My dad was so upset when i spilled a pan of oil on the trailer when i was a kid. I spread it all around so it was all the same color, and was hoping maybe he wouldn’t notice. He did, and wasnt happy about it…….over the years, i took plenty of rigs to the scrap yard, and would end up inevitably spill some here and there. Looking back it might be one of the only reasons the wood survived for 30 years.
Wow. My first reaction to this article was fear and disgust, but when I think rationally about it, I can’t really envision a better use for used motor oil. It never occurred to me that this would be viable. Maybe because the black oil is full of dirt and metal particles? Does it smell at all? ATF would be really gross imo. Is it possible to use solvents other than diesel? I can’t believe it–it even looks good. What else can you do with used motor oil?
Diesel and used motor oil….yeah thats what i thought when it says “free” yeah no buddy. Farmers did it forever correct…..also home auto service manuals used to say to dig a hole for the motor oil in your yard and that itd be soaked in in time to dump the next oil into the same oil. Instead maybe use a less irresponsible hazmat solution maybe parafin oil solvent like the Forest Service used forever.
My familly uses this trick for like 70+ years, even for gates and fences 🙂 It keeps smelling all the time, but not that much, but the wood is in really good state after even decades, just need to not touch the dirt or grass directly, or being all time wet by any reason. Wet wood will degrade regardless of any protection…
I pour used engine oils on my railroad ties that my house has for landscaping since the 70s. When I bought the house a few years ago, they were starting to get “dry” and some of them had rot starting at the bottom. I’ve pouted used oil on them for several years and they have a nice brown color and are thoroughly saturated. No need for a brush or roller…. Just pour it on the top and let it soak in
Old farmers trick: Dig a hole in the backyard now you have environmentaly friendly restroom pretty much for free! Work great since 1491 when we first got here! Work awesome every time + you don’t have to to take a dumb inside of your home. No bills. Wonderful smell! All you need to do is dig a new hole once in a while 👌
Trailer suggestion,,,,,,,I bought a $20 adapter on Amazon to convert the hand operated trailer Jack to a cordless drill crank. Works great and it’s faster. Anyone tired of cranking that jack handle? This fixes that. (Tie your existing handle somewhere on the trailer,,,,just in case you forget your cordless drill)
As a kid my family visited a farmer in Michigan. He had a lot of land with a lot of bridges. One day he showed me how he treated his bridge repairs and preserving. Old used motor oil. Straight from what i recall. He’d splat it on straight from the bucket and then brush it around with a stiff push brush..
I’m saving this article. I use a Thompsons For wood or, Thompsons Cement preserve for a break wall (on lake) Little stain or oil based paint with a bit of Mineral Spirits to thin the first coat. Second coat almost no Min Spirits. Oil will add a few pints if you need more to finish the job. Likin’ those C Hooks. Can never have enough. Just need to find me a welder. Good article. PS. I would leave the underside of the trailer bare as to let it breath.
A trailer, fine. For stuff around my house (decks, furniture, fences, etc) I only use ‘drying’ oils. Why? Because they polymerize, won’t stain your clothes/feet, and don’t stink for a month after application. Not even to mention they work better. You got a nice enough truck you shouldn’t have to finish all your wood like a beggar. Just saying…
Yes! I started learning more chemistry lately, more than what they taught in school, and you know, the funny thing is, all of the stuff that is “not environmentally friendly” is is fact environmentally friendly. It ALL came FROM the earth, and the earth knows how to deal with it. We humans don’t know crap, but it makes the billionaires richer though. Just gotta make up crap that other don’t know, and you have a sweet recipe for $$$$$.
Back on the farm, when we actually had farmS we sawed our own wood, used rough cut lumber everywhere and any wood exposed we used up our used motor oil, straight up…. Yup pissed off the enviro-wachjobs but reality meant something back then and government still worked for us…. Oddly we all lived a whole lot happier back then… So 👍👍👍🍻 IMO
I found your website to see how you treated the wood on your trailer but was blown away with your retaining wall. I have my own version of Machu Picchu at my mountain cabin. I was curious if that was 8×16 cement block or specific retaining wall block. I am also intrigued with the simplicity of, yet aesthetically pleasing top cap design that overlaps your wall blocks on both sides. Any info on your wall would be appreciated.
I have a deck that I treat every other year with regular Thompson`s water seal since 1993 and the wood is still just as good as the day I built the deck.You do not need the expensive Thompson`s just the regular low price product. Key is to do it every two years to keep it sealed as the sun will affect it over time. Another tip is to use 5/4 boards not 2 X 6 s as the thicker wood will not dry out like the 5/4 and the 2 X 6s will rot from the center.
I replaced the boards on my utility trailer with treated planks. Had to rip one in half to make them fit. Now I have a gap between the boards the size of the piece I removed. I didn’t know treated wood would shrink like that. Since I have to haul a lot of dirt, I’m going to install a sheet of plywood on top of the boards. And thanks to this article, I’m going to soak everything in oil first.
Old oil: Farmers in Germany have also used it for ages to “paint” their sheds with it. Just the pure oil… It works very well, and I think, the oil, while yes, it does get washed out of the wood but it is so little, that it would not do much harm to plants growing near the shed. Also, when you think about it: It is actually replacing the weed killer right where the wood touches the ground, so you save on that too. (Officially it is now illegal to do…)
Got nothing to do with being liberal..I’m a former refinery unit operator and auto tech engine builder..diesel and waste oil on bare hands…goes straight to your kidneys, causes cancer without a doubt…I have the scars…gloves on now…certain areas waste oil is considered hazardous toxic…full of gasoline and other by products of combustion…and BTW…since when is diesel ” free”? Not anyplace I know of…yeah the wood will soak it up, but how long will that stuff increase the flammability of the wood? When I started working the refinery there were aluminum cooling towers..I asked an old timer why…he said the wood ones soaked in water and refinery residues with the fans blowing thru them went up like a fire tornado… despite being soaking wet…this article is highly suspect and I think dangerous..just because cheap people been doing it a long time doesn’t make it safe or smart.
What you are doing is illegal, at least it is in the state I live in. It became illegal when I was a child. I’m 60 now. I loved spending time with my Pawpaw Fred. He taught me so much and is a large part of who I am today. He was very practical and frugal. He was mechanically minded and could build and repair much of what he needed around his home, yard, garden, and orchard. I remember him and my Dad saving used motor oil to treat his wooden fences and other wooden posts every few years. He claimed it was the most effective protectant and insect repellent there was. He took good care of everything he owned, and helped others do the same. I distinctly remember him grumbling and being put out because he could no longer apply used oil. He said he could go to jail for doing it because of new laws created to keep petroleum out of ground water. Not only could you not reuse already used motor oil for any purpose, but you could no longer dispose of it yourself. Since then, by law, we’ve had to save our used oil in containers to be recycled. Here, we take it to a local auto parts store. I’m pretty sure this is not only state law, but federal law as well. In fact, as you probably know, all businesses, including restaurants, must save all types of used oil for recycling. I’m pretty sure what you’re demonstrating is a crime.
This is the hillbilly way of treating wood decking. Make sure you add enough to pollute the ground underneath and all around the trailer. Remember to use your wife’s favorite kitchen floor mop. Don’t waste time going to the local dollar store and buying a cheap mop. Use the best mop available, your wife’s. 😂
Anyone of you got any idea what kind of chemical cocktails those are, to make them function properly in their primary use? No… no you don’t. Not unless you’re a chemical engineer, working at the refinery or something along those lines… and you want the next place this pops up to be in your food or drinking water? I mean…. y’all may have just the one trailer and 700,000acres to spread it out on, so ain’t never noone gonna know about it, but that ain’t exactly how the internet works… got enough shit floatin around our waterways as is.
Make sure to use your free diesel right next to a water source…. This is worse for the environment than actual stains. You said it yourself, it will remain oily for up to a week. Stains dry way faster so they don’t seep into the environment. But this will wash off, and get wiped off, etc. And sure it comes from the ground…. Miles below the surface, where it generally won’t come in contact with our fresh water, plants, animals, or us. Do you eat poison ivy in your salads since it’s “natural” and comes from the ground too?
Nope. Oil. I don’t know how many times I have been in a parking lot and after a rain I see oil floating on top of the rainwater wash going down the storm drain. These flow into our environment. Your right I am one of those guys you will see complaining. I love being in creeks and rivers playing around and working as an environmental assistant. Any way to keep oil out of the water is a plus. To use the excuse of it’s just as bad as what they sell in the stores is a joke. Oil is terrible!!!! Use it in your Jeep. Take it in to be recycled. You have taught me many things about my Jeep Cherokee by the way and I am truly grateful. But this is just not smart. Sorry
Nothing new here! There was a time used motor oil and fuel was mixed and spread by rural municipalities on dirt roads to keep the dust down! Worked great until the mixture was determined to taint the aquifer in some areas from the runoff (whoops!). Old wood fences…paint with used motor oil…..want to keep you car from rusting if you lived in the snow belt….paint your chassis and underside of your vehicle with used motor oil. We use to use it on the ranch on the wood fences in Florida because it lasted, the bugs did not like it and the horses did not like the taste so they did not chew on the top boards! Disclaimer here…used motor oil is a known high level carcinogen so use this method knowing what you are handling and coming in contact with. Not saying this is not a good method to preserve wood, but not saying it is not without its risks and downfalls. Certainly not free at the current price of fuel and not sure it works as well with synthetic oils but I do not know for sure. I use Sherwin Williams wood and deck preservative on my trailer decks, house deck and wood fences and I can go 5 years before I have to lay in more. I bought my trailer 23 years ago and I have not has to replace any wood using commercially available wood preservatives. FYI I do used a sprayer and work hard to saturate the ends since that is where the most water can penetrate from. Not saying this method he provides does not work nor that there is anything better at the price to do it. For me, I use other methods since there are too many known issues about handling used motor oil and cancer.
nothing rocket science here, very far north in Canada, and used transmission atf dexron fluid, has kept our trailers (not tractor trailers) running like a fresh bought trailer. 10 yrs of salt, and still like new. atf is rubber bushing friendly. keeps wiring from corroding and some tree huggers may not agree, but go to downtown Toronto and see whats on the pavement, running into Lake Ontario.
“Ground contact” rated treated wood is guaranteed for 20 years against damage by moisture or bugs. Just wondering how much longer it’s going to last if you “treat” it with diesel and oil. I’m also wondering how much dirt and dust is going to build up on the wood after it’s been slathered with that oily mess?????
Please don’t do this on anything near your home. Obviously I haven’t tested it, although it sounds much more flammable than some other options you could find in a store. Especially because it is both fuel and oil mixed together. And since it isn’t a more pure form of ethanol or alcohol, I have no idea how long it will take for the flammable component of the fuel to evaporate, if it ever does.
The real environmentally unfriendly thing would be if you ever replaced that wood and dumped it or burned it. If that stuff all stays in the wood, it’s not going anywhere, and you’re not having to cut new trees, mill them, haul them, etc. Using a waste product like used oil to maintain something is great.
Yes, an old trick used on stockyards, fence post, and porches since old motor oil became available. Good tip about the steps and porches and tracking it in the house. Don’t worry about the environmental aspect unless you are really sloppy and put a lot on the ground. It will soak into the wood right away. and very little gets released to the environment. Most likely, the amount released is not even measurable. Yes, old motor oil does contain some metal contaminates at the microscopic level. They too will be absorbed into the wood. Don’t eat it or use it on the top rail of corrals containing horses.
Used engine oil is also good for on the sidewalls of your tires to offset ageing and cracking, particularly if they are exposed to the sun. You can see when the sidewalls get dry and can apply more oil. It is a free tire dressing. It keeps the tyres looking fresh . You may need to apply a few coats as the tyres do suck it in when they are older. Again the tyres are mostly plastics, derived from crude oil these days with a small amount of latex.
Also.. if you broadcast a bit of glass bead or fine sand you won’t slide around while it dries.. if you have a beavertail this is important for smooth tire equipment like forklifts and some skid steers… and because of the pressure of the equipment.. it might require strapping it down a little tighter until it dries out or gets dirty.
Diesel evaporates over time. Whatever you treat with diesel only will have nothing on it after only a few weeks at most… Any oil mixed in is taken further into any gaps and into any surface voids in the timber – but it won’t go very far into the wood apart from end grain if you keep applying several times.
I use new transmission oil on one set of treated stairs and a back deck. Works great and forbids mold growth. I also us used motor oil on my shop treated steps which I do every year. Works great with no mold growth. I once use new motor oil on steps outside and black mold loved the new oil. Do not try this one!
I am glad that in Germany all these practices involving the use of mineral oil have been banned decades ago . Just google the quantity of drinking water being turned hazardous for organisms by 1 litre of mineral oil and you will understand why. I will never understand how ignorant humans can be when it comes to the preservation of their natural environment.