To prepare wood for staining, ensure the surface is clean, dry, and free from mildew. This will prevent stains and other finishes from sticking and may cause peeling. Before staining, check if the wood is moist or dry to avoid cracking or peeling. Moisture can also cause premature wood erosion, rot, or decay.
To prepare exterior wood for staining, thoroughly sweep the deck to remove leaves and debris. Always wear protective gear, such as rubber gloves, long sleeves, and eye protection. Use Cabot Problem Solver Wood Cleaner to remove mildew stains, dirt, soot, or ash before staining. If the structure is constructed from new materials, it is recommended to use a cleaner that removes dirt, mildew, and discoloration.
Restaining an older deck is a cost-effective, DIY-friendly way to quickly improve the look of your outdoor space. Weathered wood must be cleaned with a bleach-and-water solution to remove any mold and mildew present prior to application. Sanding the wood to remove loose or flaking wood stain (from previous applications) and then cleaning the wood using a product like Centrecoat Eco Cleaner and Degreaser is recommended.
To remove mild mildew, mix one quart household bleach in three quarts of water and wear rubber gloves, long sleeves, and eye protection. Sanding the wood before staining removes any protective coatings while opening up the pores for maximum stain penetration. After cleaning, it is always best to use a product like Centrecoat Eco Cleaner and Degreaser.
In conclusion, preparing wood for staining requires ensuring the surface is clean, dry, and free from dirt, mold, and mildew. By following the manufacturer’s instructions and using the right prep and paint type, you can achieve a flawless finish on your wood deck.
📹 BEFORE YOU STAIN A NEW DECK/FENCE…ALWAYS DO THIS! (“Soft Wash” New Wood + Lumber BEFORE STAINING!)
OAK CITY COATINGS is an excellent residential/commercial painting company in the RALEIGH, NC area. Nick O’Keefe, the …
How do you clean treated wood before staining?
To stain pressure-treated lumber, it is essential to prepare the surface by washing it with deck cleaner and scrubbing it for at least 24 hours. The lumber should be dry before staining, as freshly treated lumber may not absorb the stain properly. For large surfaces, a paint pad applicator is recommended, while a regular paintbrush is suitable for small areas or cracks. The stain should take at least a day to dry, and you may need to seal the surface after painting. Arborcoat has built-in UV protection to resist fading.
To add a pop of color to your wood, avoid using regular exterior paint. Arborcoat Solid Stains can be mixed in any color and adhere more effectively than regular paint. For solid colors, apply at least two coats using a paintbrush. It is recommended to wait for at least 24 hours before starting staining, as freshly treated lumber may not absorb the stain properly.
Do you really need wood conditioner before staining?
Wood conditioner is a substance used before staining wood to prevent the stain from penetrating too deeply into the wood, giving it a more even finish. It is not necessary for every wood-related project and may negatively affect the finished product. Wood conditioner is recommended when working with softwoods like Poplar, Yew, Pine, Juniper, Spruce, and Douglas fir, as they are more porous and can cause blotchy stain and difficult color prediction. Applying wood conditioner before adding a finish or before painting may negatively affect the finished product. However, it is not necessary for every wood-related project.
How to prep wood before staining?
To prepare wood for staining, dry and clean it of dirt, grease, wax, polish, marks, and old finishes. Start with a medium grade of sandpaper and gradually work your way up to a finer grade. This is an ideal first project for new do-it-yourselfers, as no special tools are needed. The most useful finishing and refinishing tools can be found around the house, such as an old toothbrush. Follow simple safety guidelines and carefully read label warnings and instructions for the best results and personal safety.
What is the best thing to clean outdoor wood with?
Weather and temperature changes can significantly damage wood, making it vulnerable to mold and other harmful elements. To effectively repurpose wood, it is essential to let it dry first, even if it hasn’t rained in a few days. This process may involve hosing the wood to remove bugs, old sap, or mud, then letting it dry and lightly sanding it to restore its smooth texture.
After drying, clean and sanitize the wood using soapy water or a combination of detergent, bleach, and water. It’s crucial to protect yourself from the fumes of the cleaner and mold spores. If the wood isn’t cleaned the first time, restart the process or dry scrub the wood to break up any extensive mold or mildew. If cleaning old painted wood, use more bleach and scrub lightly to avoid scraping paint.
After cleaning and drying, rinse the wood thoroughly and let it dry. If necessary, add a sealer or cut it for a new project. This process will help make the wood look great again and turn it into a beautiful creation.
What happens if you don’t clean wood before staining?
Power washing your deck before staining is crucial for optimal results. Over time, dirt, grime, and debris accumulate on the deck’s surface, hindering the stain’s penetration and causing flaking or peeling. Staining without power washing can result in uneven finishes or premature failure. Addressing rough or splintered areas before applying stain is essential to prevent the stain from adhering poorly and potential peeling or flaking of the finish.
Power washing may be unnecessary if the deck has been stained and you want to re-stain it with the same color. It’s best to power wash the deck first if you’re changing the color or brand of stain to ensure optimal results. Hiring professional deck staining services may be more affordable than you think. Cody Hartrum, the driving force behind HBP Painting Contractors, inherits a legacy from his father, Richard, and has been a family business rooted in the painting industry since 1983.
How to prepare weathered wood for staining?
Before staining and sealing wood structures, it is essential to clean weathered wood with a bleach-and-water solution to remove mold and mildew. If a deck is new, it is recommended to wait at least 90 days before staining and sealing the structure. Pressure-treated lumber or smoothmilled cedar should cure three to six months before staining. Mill glaze, a phenomenon that prevents adequate penetration, can be removed with a commercial-grade deck brightener and a light rinse with a pressure washer.
For aged decks that have not been stained with water-based products, simple bleach cleaning is required. Prepare the bleach concentration with water and test a small area to ensure the correct solution. Spray the bleach and let it set for 15-30 minutes. Rinse the deck with water after removing mold and mildew, ensuring it is rinsed to the center of the structure to avoid contamination.
How do you clean outdoor wood for staining?
To remove surface contaminants from wood surfaces, apply a small amount of household bleach to black areas and use Cabot Problem Solver Wood Cleaner to remove mildew stains, dirt, soot, or ash before staining. Wood siding, fencing, decks, and outdoor furniture face daily elements, temperature changes, and physical contact, leading to cracked, blistered, and contaminated surfaces. To maintain the quality of the wood’s finish, remove surface contaminants before staining, similar to washing your car before waxing it. This helps identify and remove a wide range of common contaminants, ensuring a smoother staining process.
How do you clean exterior wood doors before staining?
To prepare a wood door, start by cleaning the surface with mild detergent and warm water, ensuring it follows the wood grain direction to prevent scratches. Rinse the door with fresh water and allow it to dry completely. Next, sand the door with coarse grit sandpaper (80-120) to remove old finish and surface imperfections, avoiding cross-grain scratches. After the initial sanding, wipe the door with a damp cloth to remove any dust. Proceed to a finer grit sandpaper (180-220) for the second round to smooth the surface and prepare it for staining. Wipe the door with a damp cloth after sanding to remove any residual dust.
How do you prep exterior wood for stain?
Before applying a stain, ensure the surface is clean, dry, and free from mildew. Dirt can be removed with warm water and detergent, but mildew problems require a mixture of one quart household bleach and three quarts of water. Wear rubber gloves, long sleeves, and eye protection, wash off any solution that touches your skin, rinse thoroughly with a hose, and let surfaces dry thoroughly before staining.
What is the best thing to clean wood with before staining?
Mineral spirits, also known as paint thinner or mineral turpentine, are used to clean wood surfaces by gently cleaning the top layer. They do not cause wood to swell, damaging it or changing its size, but rather wipe off stains, especially oil. They are often used before staining or painting to spread pigment easily. A small portion of mineral spirits is applied to the surface and wiped along the wood grain to avoid scratches or grooves. A tack cloth, coated with beeswax, is used to pick up fine dust particles left behind from sanding.
A trisodium phosphate cleaner can be added to remove intense stains on a stiff brush, preparing wood for a paint job without damaging its natural properties. The cleaner typically comes in a liquid or powder that can be mixed with water.
What is the best prep for staining wood?
To prepare wood for staining, start by cleaning the surface thoroughly, removing dust, grime, and oils. Use warm, soapy water for general cleaning and consider a wood cleaner for heavily soiled surfaces. Allow the wood to dry thoroughly after cleaning. Sand the wood with coarse grit sandpaper and gradually move to finer grit for best results. Sanding removes mill glaze and loose fibers from new and older wood. Fill and repair any damages, holes, or scratches on the wood with a wood filler, allowing it to dry completely before sanding for a uniform surface.
📹 $16 Deck Cleaner vs $3 Bleach..
I’M NOT SAYING BLEACH IS THE BEST PRODUCT TO CLEAN YOUR DECK.. I’M ONLY COMPARING INGREDIENTS, COST …
I have been using Behr SemiTransparent Waterproofong Stain & Sealant for years on cedar fence panels from Home Depot. I’ve use the Chocolate, Cappuccino a coat of Chocolate followed by Cappuccino. The colors on the pamphlet are not accurate I had to return a couple that were too red and they’re usually not returnable once mixed. I use a broom to remove the dust, sand particles etc. and stained it right away. It covered beautifully with two coats and I have never had any problems with peeling or separating. I re-stain it every three or four years and it it looks great. I am getting ready to purchase four 6×8 board on board panels to extend my fence to the end of my property. I use a roller and a sponge that has a handle to do the inner part of the pickets. I think about getting a sprayer since it looks faster but I have tried it before and it was messy and it takes time to learn how to use it and I don’t want to make a mistake and have to fix it.
I was taught to let the wood “season” for at least 4 summer months, then lightly power wash it with a mild detergent and rinse, then let it dry of course before applying stain. I usually install and leave it sit for a year before I wash and stain. It lets the wood dry out more, since treated lumber is usually wet.
Good advice. I think that oxalic acid will kill mold spores. I’ve stained decks and fencing without really cleaning the wood and black mold splotches start showing through semi-transparent stain after a few months (despite stain manufacturers claims of mildew resistance). Looks ugly and you realize you just wasted a lot of time and expensive stain.
In the wood restoration & pro staining industry… Soft washing your fence is not “always necessary” but is absolutely beneficial at times. It definitely does NOT hurt to “gently” clean your fence prior to staining 😀 Applying diluted Oxalic Acid (aka Sherwin Williams “Revive”) is the second step to soft washing a fence. Before you apply Oxalic Acid (wood brightener) we like to apply one of many “sodium” based chemicals to the fence to remove any mold, mildew, organic growth, etc. We in the wood restoration industry typically caution home owners & DIY’ers to tackling soft washing their own fences & decks because these chemicals are no joke & may do more harm than good if applied incorrectly. Best advice for everyone wanting to stain any fresh raw lumber… 1. If the wood accepts water within seconds it will accept stain. 2. If you do not see mold, mildew, organics, etc simply check the fence or deck for an ideal moisture content of below 15% 3. The most important/ critical.. Apply the correct stain & do it immediately (weeks) after the fence has been installed.. The best stain to use (unless by a lake, river, etc) is a penetrating oil based semi-transparent stain This stain is NOT sold at your local home improvement stores… You got this !!! Make your project look amazing!
Recently had an Australian spotted gum deck laid, and had to have it oiled, stripped, and re-oiled. Came out with tiny black speckles as if someone had spilt graphite drops on it in the oiling. My guesstimate is that our deckers didn’t pre oil wash it down. I was highly griefed. Fully intend to strip it back, wash and re-oil it myself in twelve months time. What peeved me most is that I requested they do it properly without cost being a factor, or let me do it myself. I learnt my lesson…no criticism of their pride or job, but they just weren’t good at putting the ‘shine’ into their wood finishing. It’s the little things that can make or break a job or project finish.
I have stained my fence a few times for the past 20 years. My last stain was using used 0W20 oil (learned from youtube). It gives the best results at the cheapest cost. I just asked the mechanic to give the used oil during oil change. Also, 0W20 is pretty thin; no mixing with diesel fuel is needed. Used oil also has much less odor compared to my previous wood stain.
So bear with me here. I need to clean the deck tomorrow with a pressure washer. And I can’t stain it at least for 30 days? But we have rains here and my deck and fence is under the pine tree with lots of needles and sometimes even branches coming down… daily. What do I do then? I mean it rains here 9 months of the year. And even in the summer you wouldn’t go more that two weeks without a rain.
A recommendation for newer inexperiened homeowners: don’t cheap out. If you value your time, then bite the bullet and spend the money on a good power washer. We restained over 160 feet of cedar fence — twice — during the time we owned our previous home, and was glad for having a power washer each time. If you have to do the job in 90+F degree heat, or have carpal tunnel in your wrists, you are going to appreciate being able to get the job done as quickly as possible. Furthermore, you’re likely to use the power washer for other stuff.
Actually have almost 200ft of redwood fencing that will be installed Monday. The fence contractor said to wait a couple of weeks before staining and sealing. Is this really necessary? I’m so confused Id never heard that before. If I’m supposed to wait for the wood to dry out- why would I clean it and wet it before staining and sealing? Help?
My family is getting a new fence installed as I’m typing this. The contractor told me I’ll need to stain it myself and I came across your article which was very helpful! 😊 Thank you! Our new fence is a treated pine fence. I read one commentor say they stained their fence 40days after install. I’ll give the fence a wash a week after install and stain the fence around 30days after the wash. If there are any other tips that aren’t in the article, I’ll appreciate the comment.
Question: if i soft wash my fence, how long do I have to get the stain on it after a soft wash? Also, if I plan to stain front and back, do I have to soft wash and stain both sides together? Or can I do one side at a time? Will soft washing the back side of a washed and stained panel negatively affect the stained side? Thank you.
I had a new fence installed this summer and the guy who installed it said, absolutely, under no circumstances should you do any of this. He said after the last nail has been place in the last picket, start applying the stain immediately. Even the guys helping him said they had never heard that before, but he swore up and down that you want to make sure you stain and protect the wood as quickly as possible, because the elements start going to work on degrading the wood right away and the sooner you stain it the better.
I bought a house built in 1951. There is a cedar fence that has never been stained or cleaned. It looked gray and filthy. Two years ago I blasted it with a pressure washer and got it back to its nice wood color. But again it is back to looking gray. This summer I want to stain it. So will this cleaner remove all that gray junk? And as I understand your article, I will have to wait probably 30 days after cleaning before I can apply the stain?
Great, great content and great article. Great simple explanation! I love it. Quick question. We had a new fence put in our yard last year and this year we’re having it stained so we began the process a couple days ago. We had a professional company come into a soft wash. The owner is out of town next week. so the question is what is a good time pre-wash and actual fence staining ? I don’t want us to have rewash the fence before they stain it. Thanks.
It’s not rocket science to stain a fence made with treated lumber. The first thing to do is wait for the moisture content to go down to under 10 per cent or after six months. Clean the wood, using a mixture of three parts water to one part bleach. Add water softener, tri-sodium phosphate (TSP), to the solution. About seven per cent of the water/bleach mix. Apply, then rinse off with water.
Hola! 🖐This is a very informative as well as instructive article. I built a “Pallet Wall”, I did nothing to the slats – zero sanding, etc. It’s on 4″x4″s and framed with 2″x4″‘s for a total of about 75’ long. Would you recommend that I spend any amount of time, energy, or money on sealing it? Thanks. Take care and have a good one, Adios! 👊
Does anyone ever do the cleaning and some of the staining before building the fence or the deck? I have a small landing planned for my house and I intend to apply finish before construction. My thought is that the edges and bottoms of the boards will also be coated. All I should have to do at the end is touch up any fresh cut ends. (Since there are some carpenter bees in the area, I will apply something to the bottom of the boards to discourage the nests.) What are your thoughts?