To create a well-balanced, aesthetically pleasing, and eye-catching room, use a tape measure, pencil, and level to measure the entire wall and the border where you want to add geometric shapes. Take accurate measurements and note the radius and angle to assist in planning your decor. A step-by-step wall art size guide will guide you through the steps to pick the perfect sized wall art, guaranteed.
Geometric formulas are crucial for architects and construction workers when designing and constructing buildings, as they help determine the amount of materials needed and ensure safe construction. Adding a dramatic round shape strategically on a wall can add interest, highlight functional areas, hide eyesores, or frame. For curved wall art ideas, use a tape measure, pencil, and level to create a line square to the wall by ensuring Distance 1 and Distance 2 are equal.
To draw a large circle on the wall, measure the length of the string to ensure it is equal to the desired radius of the circle. Use a jigsaw with a fine-tooth blade to cut out circles from 1/2″ plywood. Dig through your scrap wood pile, any size will do, just enough to make a 14″ circle or go bigger if you like.
Try the measurement guideline (distance of wall x 0.6 = ideal artwork size) and grab a piece of art that closely matches the size and hang it (nail-free!) at eye level. By following these steps, you can create a well-balanced, aesthetically pleasing, and eye-catching room.
📹 7 CLEVER Picture Hanging Tricks Everyone Should Know
Here are seven lesser known tips, tricks and hacks for hanging pictures on the wall. #picturehanging #househacks #diy …
How to find the area of a curved wall?
The formula for calculating the curved surface area is given by the following equation: * (Pi) * (r) * (h), where r represents the base radius and h represents the cylinder’s height.
How do you measure wall decor?
Art sizing guidelines for furniture, such as couches, beds, and fireplaces, suggest choosing art that is ½ – ¾ the width of the wall or the furniture it is placed over. For a 7-foot couch, the art should be 42 – 63 inches wide. For fireplaces, the art should be as wide as the opening, regardless of the mantel size. For blank walls, the three-eights rule can be used to determine the appropriate size of art. For a wall 9 feet wide, a piece around 60″ wide would be the best fit.
How to get wall measurements?
The total square footage of a wall, inclusive of doors and windows, can be calculated by multiplying the ceiling height by the wall length and subsequently deducting the areas not covered. The area of standard doors and windows is approximately 12 square feet, with dimensions of 3 x 7 feet.
How do you measure a circle wall?
Measure a circular room by starting in the center and measuring to the opposite wall. Divide the diameter by 2 to get the radius, then multiply by π (3. 14159265) to get the ft². Measure your room to determine floor space needed for square/rectangle, odd-shaped, or round rooms. Use a tape measure, note pad, pen, and calculator for accurate measurements. Square or rectangle rooms are easier to measure as they only have four walls.
How to find the radius of a curved wall?
The distance from the straight edge to the curve, known as the “rise on chord,” can be determined using the following formula: Radius = ½ (rise² + ¼ chord²) / rise. A 36-inch chord may be employed for the purpose of verifying the measurements, which will yield a radius of 225. 7.
How do you find the area of a circular wall?
The area of a circle is the space occupied by the circle in a two-dimensional plane, measured in square units like m, cm, or in. It is calculated using formulas like A = πr 2, where r is the radius. The area of a circle is useful for measuring the region occupied by a circular field or plot, such as determining the amount of cloth needed to cover a circular table.
A circle does not have a volume, as it is a two-dimensional shape with only its area and perimeter/circumference. Its surface area is also known as the total number of square units inside the circle. The formula for the area of a circle is A = πr 2, where r is the radius.
In summary, the area of a circle is the space enclosed within its boundary, which can be measured using formulas like A = πr 2, πd 2 /4, or C2/4π.
How do you calculate wall size?
In order to ascertain the requisite measurement, it is necessary to determine the height of the wall in question, from the floor to the ceiling, with the exclusion of baseboards and moldings. The length of the wall should be measured, including any doors or windows that may be present. To ascertain the total square footage, one must multiply the ceiling height by the wall length.
How to measure a circular room?
To calculate the surface area of a round recess or curved end in a room, measure the length and width through the middle of the recess, divide the length in half, multiply by the width, and divide by 3. 14 to get the complete area of the circle. Accurate measurements are crucial for ordering flooring, as the new flooring should cover the relevant surface area without visible joins for an attractive finish. However, not all rooms are symmetrical or have straight walls, so calculating the necessary flooring can be complicated.
How do you find the length and width of a wall?
To measure the width and height of multiple walls, use a tape measure, excluding baseboards and crown molding. Measure straight across the widest parts of the walls, ignoring windows and doors. Combine the total widths of all walls and use only the tallest height when submitting measurements. Measure the widest width and highest height of a sloped wall, ignoring any slopes. The mural will be provided as a full rectangle, and sloped areas will be trimmed away during installation. Do not include baseboards or crown molding in your measurements.
📹 ✅ Decoration with plasterboard 💪🏼 How to assemble Circular shelf ▶︎ Drywall
In this video you will see how to build this round shelf step by step. The materials I use for this project – Angle profile – Drywall …
I’ve been in the custom framing industry for 22 years. Toothpaste, fork, and wrapping paper diagram are solid tips. Much of the rest are only good for plastic pre-fabricated frames from home decor stores… If you have something framed professionally, be sure to use hardware rated for the weight of the frame being hung, particularly something hefty as a mirror. If at all possible, refrain from using adhesive hangers. Humidity, changes in temperature, and time will adversely affect the adhesives. It’s better to have to spackle and retouch paint than it is to replace a frame and deal with broken glass. When in doubt, consult a professional.
As a professional art handler and painting conservator with 35 years of experience in the industry I can tell you I have seen literally hundreds of pieces on my restoration easel due to the use of adhesive hanging hooks. Avoid them like the plague, they may seem to be a quick and easy hanging system but I guarantee you those pictures will be coming off that wall as soon as the season changes.
These are great thanks! Two more I have learned. 1. If hanging a picture by yourself, get the measurements and then put four post it notes to represent the corners. Walk away and have a look. Then try aligning it differently with the post it notes and look again Repeat until you find the perfect spot. Then either use the article tricks or math to place the nail. 2. If you have an extremely heavy irregularly shaped object (Ex. Big clay wall hung figurine), take a photo and enlarge on the printer or photocopier until you can make a paper replica of it. Then go around the house with the paper cutout of the replica and a piece of painters tape and try various locations until you find the perfect place to hang it.
Regarding tip # 2, using the command strips…..I followed the directions to the letter and when I pulled the frame out from the bottom to remove it (to push the strips even tighter against the wall) it pulled 4 chunks out of the sheetrock where the command strips were stuck. If I were to try it again, I would just barely stick the velcro together when putting the picture up for the first time and hope that I wouldn’t have to remove the frame again. (Incidentally, I patched the wall and hung the picture up with a wire on the second try)
Love the fork idea! I’m comfortable with a measuring tape and level for quickly hanging all pictures, but that wire thing has stumped me for years. Brilliant! I’ve never used the command strips but loved the tutorial – unexpected in this article. Thank you! I installed wire closet shelving for several years. Had to drill hundreds of drywall holes on most jobs. Just use a piece of card stock type cardboard – like the cereal box. There’s almost always a piece of it with the packaging of whatever DIY project you’re doing. Fold it to create a “handle side” and a “catcher side” like the post it note – the sticky side is the catcher side. The catcher side needs a clean cut edge, the rest can be torn if that’s what’s quick. Then just hold that in one hand against the wall below the hole you’re drilling with the other hand. Empty as needed. Very efficient and clean. If you’re new to DIY, the taped versions may be easier at first.
When hanging pictures keep the top of the picture level with the top of the door jam. Also when you have a picture hanging from a single hook using picture cord, place a wine cork behind the top of the picture. This pushes the top of the picture forward slightly allowing a better angle to view the picture.
When hanging a picture that has two (triangular) hooks on back, be sure they’re mounted level to the frame. They should be, but sadly I’ve seen it often not so. If not, your painter’s tape can be perfectly level, but not the picture. 😔 You could add more strips of painter’s tape up to the edge of the frame and level that top edge. Great tips! Very concise and well demonstrated!
Just use a strip of BLUE painters tape (This method also works well for wall mountable power strips that have the screw slots on the back side, just place the blue painters tape from screw slot to screw slot and then pole holes into the bottom of the small part of the slot opening, and transfer the tape to your wall or desk or whatever your going to mount your power strip to) If you have a nail that is holding a clock that you have to adjust the time and the nail pushes into the wall, just pull it out to the correct length and SUPER GLUE the nail. then when its time to change the clocks, the nail stays in place
Excellent article and tips, especially the collage idea. Another take on the cereal box edge for wire and center mount hangers. Get a paint stirring stick from the hardware store, drill a small hole and install a small screw so that is sticks out the back. Hang the picture on the head of the screw and use just like the cereal box. The advantage is you can move it around the wall holding it by the stick until it is in the right position.
I’m in the middle of painting my entire house on the inside, and I wasn’t sure about how and where I wanted to hang the pics. I am so happy I came across your article. I really had no idea how easy it was to hang everything the right way. It’s always frustrated me in doing so. I appreciate you & your wife for sharing. Thank you
I appreciate this article, however as someone who is neuro-divergent and has never done this, I wish it had been explained in more detail that the command strips needed to be paired by sticking them together before attempting to put it on the wall. I just thought I had 4 extra strips LOL now I have to run to the store and get more.
I’ve got one if you need to hang a multitude of pictures: cut the heads off some finish nails and drive the nails into the edges of the side frame about 3/4 the length up, so they project out about 1/2″ at a downward angle. Then using a level line on the wall, hold the bottom of the picture level and lean on the side frames. The nails will push right into your sheetrock, picture will be hung so it never jars out of level, and you can take the pictures down and put them back up– say when painting.
“Brilliant” is the word I was thinking. As an artist myself, I have hung paintings & photos for years & definitely could have used some of these tips long ago. The warning from the restoration people about the adhesive strips is a good one, as well as velcro pads stuck to the wall can come loose & damage your frame in a fall. The more you use, the less chance of that happening. Also, be aware if you’re going to wipe the wall with alcohol, that is a solvent that will dissolve water-based paint or mar the sheen, so use sparingly.
Never would’ve thought to use toothpaste for those pesky nail hooks. I actually take flat thumb tacks, and put it on, and use a piece of tape to poke it through and tape the thumb tack to the back of the frame, then I use a level, and push and it gives me two starter holes. I feel like it’s a little easier. But either way man good article!
Brilliant tips, and combination of article shooting with different visual perspectives and instructional methods man. I have worked in corporate for 10 years creating e-learning and training and can def appreciate both the really clever tips to use plus your articlegraphy and instruction and you had just a hint of the light music track in the background that didnt overwhelm your audio track! Macgyver would be impressed with your cleverness! lol
I love creative people who find awesome problem solving techniques. Love the photos with your power tools as well. That would actually make a great gift for the guy who has it all—power tools anyway. Thank you from someone who is a klutz at picture hanging! Well-done article—very informative, time saving, efficient use of time, great ideas! I’m your new subscriber. I know you have many other tips for me!
You have great advice. How would I hang an antique cornucopia vase made of ceramic or porcelain. It has a hole in the tip of the porcelain. The problem is when I’ve done this before over time the nail starts cutting into the hole and damages the porcelain. It would have cut through and dropped but I noticed it in time. Is there a way or preventing the nail from cutting into the porcelain?
You could just wire in a steel wire between those dual hooks on the picture and put up a single wall hook and hang it from the steel wire. This also makes its vertical orientation a doddle to adjust once it’s already hanging. Also, for hooks in drywall, the 3M Claw system is stupid good. They do leave two small holes but they can carry a ton of weight if you go larger, if you have a really heavy piece. Not like a TV, perhaps, but a bigger painting with a beefy frame. Many kilos each.
All great ideas, but when you pulled out the mounting putty to steady the pic I hit the Like Button! I pictured every person that had ever straightened a painting or mirror snap their attention to this article and then “I felt a great disturbance in the Force, as if millions of voices suddenly cried out (over fixing wall hangings) and were suddenly silenced” because they were finally at peace. But, at the end, when I realized that this was the website I saw the uses for painters tape… I hit the Subscribe Button!! Thanks!
I had a whole wall of small to medium frames held up with a minimum of 4 command strips (at least one on each corner) . After 3 ish years, they started to fall off the wall. The velcro hooks are made of plastic and I think over time gravity pulls the frame to a point where the hooks are straightened out. Strips may be good for posters, but any frame with glass is not going to last. The heavier the frame, the sooner this will happen
@7:25 Picture collage. Sometimes arranging the pictures down on a table may not give you the effect that it will have on the wall. I know this may take longer, but I trace the frames on brown paper bags, cut them each out and move the design around on the wall (painter’s tape on the back corners), till I am satisfied with the layout.
Simple way I’ve used for 50 years: String or cord tied to both hanger tags on the back of the picture with about 10% to15% slack. Two nails in the wall parallel to each other and closer together than the hanger tags (at least an inch). Slide the picture down the wall so the string drapes over both nails Done! If it’s off kilter, just slide it right or left a bit. It will hang level automatically. And if it gets knocked, just slide it sideways back into position.
More expensive gift wrap will have a grid printed in the back. Handy for gallery wall layout. Average height? The center of the artwork should be 61 inches from the ground. This varies by how large the artwork is and its placement over furniture. Also, people try to fill gigantic tall walls with artwork by placing the artwork way up on the wall… It often has the opposite effect of pointing out how high the ceilings are. Keep it at eye level to draw the eye to the artwork, to the artwork, not upward .
Great tips. I once bought a pair of clamps with punch-points specifically for hanging pictures at a DIY place. Cost? About $1.50 at the time. I clamped them down to an 18 or 24 inch level and adjusted the clamps to exactly where the frame hooks where. You killed two birds – exact location of nail(s) and level the picture. I gave them away as a gift and can’t find replacements. But, these tips make up for my largesse. Thanks again.
As a professional art installer, I can say that all of these tips are why someone ends up hiring me. The only useful and clever tip was the paper layout idea., but I would never mark the holes on the paper. Most of these also only would kind of work with small objects. Also, not mention about the correct or best height to hang the art at.
When there are 2 hangers on the frame, you’re supposed to run a wire between them & hang from that. Not try to place 2 corresponding hangers perfectly on the wall. The wire also allows you to easily level. Even if you get the 2 hangers perfect, the frame may not be level. Or, it may not appear so because of the surrounding imperfections of the house. Bottom line don’t do that! Way too complicated
Where have you been all of my picture hanging life?? 😩 I could have used ALL of these BRILLIANT ideas sooooooo many times!!!!Actually just a few weeks ago in fact!!!!! The fork idea OMGOODNESS andddd the tape and sticky stuff idea to line up those annoying little tiny hooks on the back of some frames😱 W😱W!!!!!!!!! Indeed, GENIUS!!!!! 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
Good ideas. Just found your website. Can you advise or help me. I own a historic home with PLASTER walls. I have various size artwork I want to hang. The different hardware stores recommend stuff that just doesn’t work. Especially if painting is a little heavy. Ends up with holes in wall which then I have to repair. Any suggestions?
I was the janitor/handywoman/landscaper/go-fer/and Jill-of-all-trades at a museum. The curator was always wanting things moved around. Entire rooms swapped! Sooo many pictures! I can’t tell you how many pictures I took down and put back up. I actually figured out the marking on masking tape myself but that fork for all the big pictures with wire hangers would have been so helpful to know back then. Good tips. About 20 years too late though…LOL
I noticed that you had a lovely portrait of your power drill. Love that you commented on that at the end. Love a good Dork! Question: Any tips for hanging on plaster? I hate it, but my house was built in 1922 and it’s all lathe and plaster, and so far I’ve put some massive holes in the walls trying to hang stuff (because I’m impatient and impulsive and sometimes it works).
A nun is putting up a picture. She holds the nail with one hand and swings the hammer with the other. “(expletive 1)”, she cries as she smacks her thumb. “Oh (expletive 2)”, she remarks, “I said (expletive 1)”. “Oh (expletive 3)!”, she continues, “I said (expletive 2)”. “Ah, screw it”, she says, throwing the hammer on the floor, “I didn’t want to be a nun anyway”.
Just about to buy one of those handy plastic tools for future use but afraid I’d forget where I stored it. The cardboard and thumb tack idea is stored in my memory now. Also to keep frames from tipping out of level, I always use TWO nails. I can use a triangle of cardboard and two thumb tacks or upholestry tacks to accomplish the same trick. Thanks for the inspiration.
If you have a longer level, put painters tape on one of the flat sides (top or bottom) of the level. Place the level on the back of the picture and mark the positions of the D-rings on the tape. Place the level on the wall, once it’s at the right height and level, just transfer the marks for the D-rings onto the wall. If you’re worried about the marks on the painters tape being reversed, no problem just use a carpenters square and draw through the original marks across the tape, to the other side of the level. The tape should be 2″, to cover all the way across the level. Now flip the level around and you can transfer the marks to be in the correct orientation. Have fun!
Genius! Can you please tell me how to measure a wall for pictures where the door opens…as in a bathroom? I have two small pictures I’d like to hang on a bathroom wall that is 8 feet long. When the door is open, the exposed part of the wall is 65″. Do I hang the pictures across the entire wall or just the part of the wall that’s exposed when the door is open? Thank you so much in advance! Theresa
Hmmm when young and no electric tools I used an ice pic to start the hole for dry wall anchor. Or I used a cup hook as a starter in dry wall or wood for nails or screws. No mess. You dont need to drill a huge pilot hole with a drill into your drywall board unless a stud is there. You just need a hole for the tip as you want the anchor to anchor. A too big hole and it will come out. Other than that I eye ball everything for last 50 years. No one has ever said my pics were in wrong place etc. I do use real picture hanging hooks too not a bare nail ever. My partner used a giant flat head nail to hang a small framed picture in the bathroom? I cant remove it as I need to replaster the hole! Hes very detailed in all other areas but why that? If you use a real picture hanger the angled kind it has more strength because the nail is at an angle. You can forgoe the giant anchors unless a much heavier item. Think Kreg jig, pocket holes at angles. Fork tip great though!
I have a heavy, large atomic wall clock and it is hung on wood paneling that’s over a hollow wall. : / Used the bent wire hanger that’s supposed to ‘grab’ onto the other side of the wall. Had to change the battery and that wire moved a bit and the clock came down and dented the wood floor. Now, I have a clock that is correct twice a day because I am afraid to touch it to change the battery once again. Anyone have a Real way to hang this Safely? Thanks