To install Hardie® Backer cement board on walls, follow these steps:
- Keep a ⅛” gap between board edges.
- Keep sheet edges ⅛” back from walls and cabinet bases.
- Stagger cement board joints in a brick-laying pattern.
- Avoid aligning boards with subfloor joints.
- Never align four corners of boards to meet at one point.
- Tape the seams between the boards.
- Use paper tape and joint compound for seam 1 and alkali-resistant fibatape and thinset mortar for seam 4.
- Tile above the shower head but not the shower head.
- Finish the wall by filling the joints with mortar. This step seals hardi backer board and creates a solid, paintable finish.
Hardie board siding is a popular option for durable, beautiful siding that can protect your home in the long term. To install Hardie Board and Batten siding, start by preparing the wall with a weather-resistant barrier. Install the Hardie Vertical Panel first, ensuring it is level.
To tape a Hardie® Backer cement board, clean the surface with a damp sponge, spread mortar with an appropriately sized notched trowel, cover the seam with mesh tape, and use joint compound over the tape for a smooth, paintable finish.
In the shower, use thinset mortar to seam the panels in the shower. Set mud for the seam where cement panel meets gypsum panel.
📹 How to Install Cement Board for Beginners
Anyone can enjoy the benefits of a cement board shower system if you follow these 3 easy steps. All the insider information on …
Do you tape the seams on Hardie board?
The speaker underscores the significance of ensuring that cement board joints are adequately sealed with tape, irrespective of the presence or absence of tape on the surface.
What to use for cement board joints?
How do you fill gaps between wall boards?
To fill gaps in planks, identify the size and shape of the gaps and choose a wood filler that matches the color of the planks. Clean the gaps with a putty knife or scraper, apply the filler using a putty knife, caulking gun, brush, or spatula, and press it into the gaps slightly to prevent shrinkage. Once the filler has dried, sand it down with a fine grit sandpaper until it’s flush with the planks. If necessary, apply stain or paint to blend everything together. If desired, seal the wood with a quality wood sealer to protect it from further damage.
Mans Lumber and Home, a custom millwork shop offering premium moldings, lumber, kitchen and bathroom design, and more, can help with selecting the right products and tools. With locations in Trenton, Canton, Birmingham, and Ann Arbor, they focus on providing quality building materials and outstanding customer service. For more information, visit their website, call 734-237-7914, or visit any of their four locations.
What do you fill cement board seams with?
What is the best way to fasten Hardie board?
James Hardie’s fiber cement products can be fastened using power nails or pneumatic tools, with pneumatic nailers being highly recommended. Siding guns or roofing nail guns can be used to fasten HardiePlank® lap siding, HardiePanel® vertical siding, or HardieShingle® siding, provided they are adjusted to the appropriate settings and follow installation instructions. HardieTrim® boards can be attached using a finish nail gun, but with the same caveats.
A list of commonly used nail guns can be found in the best practice guide. Essential hand tools for the job include a 25-foot contractors tape measure, a tornado level, a writing utensil, a smooth-faced hammer, a speed square, and a level at least 4 feet long.
Can a hardie board be used indoors?
Water-resistant gypsum board is a common wall sheathing suitable for tubs and shower rooms, as it repels water due to its waxy substrate and is about as strong as regular drywall. Hardie boards are often confused with water-resistant cement boards, but they are not always the best material for showers or tub areas due to their heavy weight. Water-resistant materials can withstand water penetration to a certain extent, while waterproof materials are theoretically impenetrable to water, regardless of the duration of exposure.
How to attach a hardie board to a wall?
To secure the Hardie Backer Board to the wall, use a power drill and screws, spacing them 8 inches apart. Use backer board tape to cover any seams, ensuring a smooth surface for tiles. Prepare the wall surface, measure and cut the board, and wear safety glasses and ear protection when using power tools. With patience and attention to detail, your finished project will be beautiful and long-lasting.
How to join cement board together?
This guide provides a step-by-step guide on how to install cement boards for home renovations or remodeling projects. The process involves preparing the work area, cutting cement boards, mixing and applying thinset mortar, laying and securing cement boards, tape the seams, spreading more thinset mortar, and applying an optional waterproof membrane. Cement board is a material used to back tile or stone on walls, countertops, and floors, and is a popular choice for builders due to its porous nature and ability to adhere well to grout and mortar. The guide covers the benefits of using cement board and how to install it, as well as the process of preparing the area for tile installation.
How do you join cement board cladding?
The second Cladco Fiber Cement Wall Cladding Board should be positioned so that the base overlaps the top of the first board by 30mm, ensuring that the dimensions remain consistent throughout the installation process. A 40mm screw should be inserted through the new cladding board and into the joist.
How to fill a gap between cement board and drywall?
In order to fill a gap of approximately 0. 25 inches, it is recommended to use Duarbond or Quickset joint compound. Once the compound has been applied, it should be smoothed out and, if necessary, sanded. The next step is to tape the joint and finish with paper tape and joint compound. Alternatively, No-Coat Inside 90° can be used as an alternative for those with limited experience.
How to join the Hardie Board?
In order to affix the tile, it is necessary to secure the HardieBacker cement board with nails or screws at 8-inch intervals across the entire surface. It is important to ensure that the fasteners are positioned between 3/8 inch and 3/4 inch from the edges of the board and at a distance of 2 inches from the corners.
📹 BACKERBOARD/DRYWALL Transition Tile Shower Wall
Where to stop the Backerboard (Hardiebacker/Durock/Kerdi Board) in the shower and start the drywall. Tile shower walls need to …
Thanks for this article. I will finish patching my shower wall this weekend. Needed to see how to water proof and the products needed. *Long story short I recently purchased my home and discovered a leak which was due to a bad shark bite install. Love your quote, “Home owners are the best general contractors”
Jeff question. For starters love all your articles very informational. I am working on finishing my master shower. I sent my husband to the store to buy a bag of that speedset and he bought the wrong thing the same brand but it is the blue bag and says on it custom blend economical non-modified thin set mortar. Will this work or not? Also does it matter which side is out on the cement board? Please and thank you.
Have watched several of your articles as I’m demo’ing a +100 year old bathroom! 🙀 I’ve heard you say a couple times “water will drain back out of the tile to your drain” in your cement board article, tile article, etc. Is there a vid you can point me to that helps me manage this? Does the silicone bead at the bottom of the tile/tub lock that water in? Thanks!
I used Mapelastic CI by advise of Floor and Decor associate, and after applying it on the shower wall, I realized that this product is to prevent cracks but not for waterproofing. I wanted to get advise if I can still paint over the brown Mapelastic CI that is already applied on Hardiboard with Aquadefense instead of tearing everything thing down and re-boarding with hardie board? If so will it impact tile application or tile strength in the future? Thanks in advance.
Are you supposed to start with cement wall and then the regular drywall or viceversa? What the best way to waterproof a walk in shower that didn’t have any pan liner when all the tiles and all the drywall were removed and it’s a concrete floor? I’m stuck now with an empty bathroom and not knowing what else to do?
Question I have. I’m doing tiles walls through my whole bathroom and floor. Also doing a shower stall. Do I need to cement board the walls and floor for prep for the tiles? I’ve seen your article using redguard coated mildew resistant sheetrock for the shower but wondered about walls and floor. Thank you so much. Absolutely love your articles!! So helpful
The comment about installing the blade backwards cracked me up. I went over to my sisters to visit. Went use the circular saw, she said it needed a new blade because it is dull and it is hard to cut wood. I told her, I gave her husband a new carbide tipped blade, it should cut like butter.. She said, will it doesnt cut good. I said, I’m doing some small cuts and it should be fine.. I went use it and it wouldn’t cut at all. I looked at the blade, the rocket scientist husband, put the blade on backwards.. I turned the blade around and cut the wood like soft butter.. Without saying anything about changing the blade, I said it cuts good and showed them both. Baffled as to why it wouldn’t cut for them, I said you didnt plug in the cord correctly, you reversed polarity and it makes the saw run backwards.. Since then the check goe its plugged in.. The plug is old style, 2 prong.. It’s been 13 years since then..and they marked the plug so it goes in the way I said.. Since it’s been 13 years this April 1st I will tell them.
HI Jeff… Awesome stuff.. I watched my first Jeff article a few weeks ago and I think this one is like my 47th… I’m doing a bathroom myself (1st one) and have a question. I’ll be doing an alcove bathtub/shower using 1/2″ cement board on top of studs, then tape, thinset, redgard and finally 12×24 tile. I see in this article you also use 1/2″ backer on the studs but I don’t see any blocking between studs just above the tub rim. With 1/2″ CBU, do I need that blocking?
Hi, your articles are immensly helpful. I have a question regarding the finishing of cement board, but for the fireplace. Humidity is not an issue, heat is! I replaced my fireplace with a high efficiency (still wood). I repaired the hole that was made for the change by screwing cement board (durock, 1/2”) in the metal frames, it’s solid but there is a little flex in the middle. I put plaster of Paris, non-shrinking compound, to fill the gap on the horizontal joint, then I put mesh tape between the 2 sheets with drywall compound, waiting between layers and waiting 3 days before making a fire. Whenever i make a fire, a horizontal crack appears. Repaired 2 times, same thing. Have an idea, I’m stuck.
Hey there. I am pretty much binge perusal your website, and I will probably become a member soon, as I’d like to ask if you have some advice in handling concrete/brick walls with plaster, as that’s how houses are built where I’m from (Netherlands and Italy). By the way, pretty sure Mapei is Italian, not Canadian 😉
I’m an Indiana DIYer using the cement board, fiber tape, AquaGuard system. My question is how to waterproof and tile around wood frame fixed double pane windows that are in the shower space. One is directly across from the shower head, the other is to the side. Both are 4 feet from the floor. Love your articles. I watch them carefully multiple times before doing the work.
I’m a first homeowner and have to replace my tub. I had to take out the subfloor which I was down to the joist and about to place new plywood. Had to take out the wall tile and part of the old wonderboard . It’s about a foot or so from where the tub sits. I know I’m gonna have to replace all the wall tile. I’m trying to learn much as possible. My first time so I’m perusal a lot of how to articles. I didn’t know about the mesh and concrete, and that stuff you rolled on, don’t worry I’m going to rewatch this and other articles until I’m sure of what I’m doing. I just wanna say thanks for the DIY articles. appreciate it and others that give a helping hand.
Because my real log walls will support the only wall I am building, my plan is to use 1/4″ pine lattice moulding as strapping, and 1/4″ hardie board to build my waterproof shower wall. I have very limited space and every 1/4″ will keep the shower screens from extending past the door as much. Will this be ok? Thanks in advance.
If I want to use cement board to cover interior walls in my free standing workshop/garage, do I need to worry about water proofing? I was thinking about putting frame walls with insulation, but not sure if I need vapor blocking film. Also, what about using it for garage floors? Would you recommend it?
I would use blue painter tape along the wall on the shower pan to keep from having the motor sand scratching the finish of the shower base pan. You can simple pull the tape off after the mortar drys. just a simple idea. Also I noticed you did not put vapor barrier on the wood studs before hanging the board. May you are not worried about water getting behind the board and socking into the stocks.
Please help… I live in TN. I have my whole bathroom pulled out (DIY) I’ve been looking at remodel articles for 3 weeks now…all day.. im struggling between the cement board vs the foam boards .. im redoing my bathtub and doing tile. I know u need to use the aqua defense and the tape membrane… but the cement vs green backerboard..foam…its all confusing.. I seen a article that showed water soak thru the cement board.. HELP
I don’t understand the curdy board or membrane. Looks like a lot of expense over just water proofing. In NSW Australia I use a pre primed cement board, fill joins similar to you, then extra primer and 2 coats of a thick rubber based membrane. Our membrane seems to go on much thicker than what your applying.
I’m doing my bathroom right now. And I’m debating weather to use any waterproofing. I did buy the red guard and I’m at that point right now. Just gotta finish the niche’s and it’s ready to seal. My issue is water flows downward always. But waterproofing really is redundant to a point. But I guess for piece of mind.
Great article again Jeff. I am in the process of installing a vanity in the ensuite. Because of piping and electrics I want to be careful naturally. A basically following your process for cutting the board so I can check fixing points. Is there a tool that you recommend to cut a piece of cement board that is already installed. So I can check and add fixing points for vanity?? I bought some Diablo cutters that the hardware store recommended that fit an oscillating tool but they just burnt out.