Thermal Energy Storage (TES) tanks offer significant financial benefits, including energy cost savings and the ability to reduce peak electrical load. They can shift energy use from peak to off-peak periods, reducing total energy use and carbon dioxide emissions. Various technologies, such as ice harvesting, external melt ice-on-coil, internal melt ice-on-coil, encapsulated ice, stratified water, and multi-tank, can be used for thermal energy storage.
CROM offers turnkey TES tank services, customized insulation systems, and TIAC tanks to provide efficient, cost-effective solutions for energy storage. The placement of the TES water tank is crucial for efficient operation, and it should be located near the data center’s cooling area. A stratified water tank is often the best choice for a TES system, as it takes advantage of natural stratification without added energy.
Turnkey design includes in-house engineering services, design, fabrication, and erection of the foundation, tank, internal piping system, and exterior insulation. Gas shutoff valves between propane tanks and TES units are installed in trailers, and a propane regulator must be installed outside of the trailer. Steel and concrete are popular materials for TES systems, with stainless steel cables placed on the outside of the inner layer/vapor barrier.
A tank thermal energy storage system typically consists of reinforced concrete or stainless-steel tanks as storage containers, with water serving as the heat source. Services offered include in-house design, engineering, fabrication, erection, coatings, foundation, internal diffuser system, and exterior insulation.
📹 Perimeter Tank Access – Layher
Quick 2 minute animation to highlight the versatility of the Layher Scaffold System and also showcase the in-house capability of …
📹 Understanding Septic Systems | Ask This Old House
In this video, This Old House plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey teaches host Kevin O’Connor everything he needs …
Приветствую из Ярославля! Всё конечно красиво и складно,но это только на ровной поверхности. А как мне известно это редкий ландшафт на котором расположены ёмкости (1k)! Чаще встречаются скаты и вызвышенность (отмостка) из бетона,и грунта. Продемонстрируйте возможность (возведения) монтажа на не ровной поверхности. P.S. явно поворотная регулируемая винтовая стойка “домкрат” .
Hello sir or ma’am. I love the demo of this splay design of the scaffolding. However, all layher ledger mostly design in a fixed length. . Just one question. Are they all in this article design to stretch that fixed ledger or just your creative way of demonstrating how the splay scaffolding design around circular structure? That is all
Excellent model, Richard! As a proud owner of a septic system, I didn’t have a clue how they worked when we bought our house a couple years ago. This article and the others like it you’ve made in the past explaining septic (and heat pumps!) have really helped me understand the systems in our house. Great work guys, keep it up!
I wonder about the 3-5 years thing now that so many people work from home. My wife and I both went in 5 days a week, so lunches, coffee, bathroom, etc. weren’t happening at home. Now we’re both working from home almost 100% of the time. I have to think the intervals for cleaning need to be reconsidered for these changes in use.
As a Licensed Septic Professional with over 20 years of experience, I can tell you that not every Septic Tank has 2 Compartments like his cut away model. In fact, most residential Septic Tanks are just one single compartment with no partician or divider in them. To be clear, the size of the tank is usually dictated by the size of the house or more specifically, the number of bedrooms. I think because Richard Trethewy is a Licensed Plumber in Massachusetts, he’s probably assuming that every state does things like they do. Thankfully, that’s not the case, because Massachusetts has Title 5, and most states don’t. In fact, in Massachusetts Septic Systems are overpriced as a result of all the ridiculous rules and regulations. Sadly, it’s not uncommon for homeowners to pay over 30 thousand dollars for a new or replacement Septic System, which doesn’t make sense to me. In any case, the most important thing for any homeowner to know about Septic Systems is that every state and or county across the country has different rules and regulations, which means no two systems are the same. Always remember that soil conditions and other considerations, like the water table and the size of your yard, will dictate what type of system you’re allowed to have. Obviously, proper care and maintenance of your Septic System is the key to longevity, but no Septic System is permanent. It’s Leaching Fields that inevitably fail, which can happen in as little as 10 years, but typically takes 30 years or more.
Great resource: Septic Protector — YT I bought their book and washing machine filter. P.S. I was in a local restaurant, overheard couple next table complaining about their vacation home “just” having a septic tank which “poisoned the ground”. Couldn’t help myself. Leaned over, “excuse me”, a proper sept tank returns clean water plus valuable nutrients. It’s quite the opposite of “poison”. Another problem with city disposal systems is the water is usually run into a river or lake after treatment — it’s not returned to the local water level. Retired librarian
Household septic tanks are typically pumped every three to five years. The service costs an average of $400 for a one-time pump. Alternative systems with electrical float switches, pumps, or mechanical components should be inspected more often. Your tank should be pumped if the bottom of the scum layer is within six inches of the bottom of the outlet, if the top of the sludge layer is within 12 inches of the outlet, or if more than 25% of the liquid depth is sludge and scum. To keep track of when to pump out your tank, write down the sludge and scum levels found by the septic professional. The service provider should note repairs completed and the tank condition in your system’s service report. If other repairs are recommended, hire a repair person soon. But, Keep Notes about your Septic. Search and Look for a Septic Professional in your Area, If they have a Office, Perhaps Visit it, Ask Questions to Learn more. If you know Your Septic Hasn’t Been cleaned in awhile, Perhaps ask them about Cost, Perhaps Ask them to do a Inspection and possible Pumping. Knowing where your Septic is, is always a good idea, Making sure not to build or plant bushes or plants right on top of it.
Had to take care of one for 11 years. Pumped it out yearly, because the cost was low. Did all I could to take care of and improve the leech field as well from the previous owners lack of care. Made sure not to put anything down there that wasnt supposed to be. Even got rid of the garburator so I didnt have extra going down there. No issues ever so I must of been doing something right.. Was it overkill, who knows. Dont live there anymore. Im sure many will come and tell me how wrong I was.
I live in a tiny town, about 12 miles from a city. I have a 1500 gal cement septic tank built back in the 1930’s, for my home. A few years ago, had relatives visit, and they were telling me they needed to dump their RV’s black water, so could I recommend a place to drive to in town? I said why go all the way to town? Just run the hose into my septic tank. I opened the access lid for them and in a few minutes their RV’s black water tank was empty. They asked if they should dump the grey water, too? I looked into my septic and it wasn’t full to the top, so I said sure, why not? So they dumped the grey water in and I closed the access lid up. About a month later, I had flooding from the septic in my yard. ?! I’d never had my septic back up before, even when I’d had several people stay in my home for lengthy visits. I called the septic cleaning company I’d used every few years, they pumped it out, and they recommended this expensive enzyme additive to get it back to running normally. I had to put in about three of those $90 + gallons, and my septic seems to be working okay, now. Something in that RV’s waste water, messed up my house septic tank’s way of ‘processing’ the waste water. We don’t flush paper into our tank, or let grease go down the sink. So to this day I’m not sure what happened, but I learned a very expensive lesson!
Here in Maine at least the tank divider is on the top and not on the bottom. This keeps the scum level from ever reaching the outlet and the solids and sink to the bottom of the whole tank. I have never inspected a fiberglass or plastic tank but have inspected 1000’s of concrete tanks. The newer designs are getting rid of the divider and just using tees on the inlet side and tees with floats on the outlet side
An effluent filter can be added before the lateral lines – ongoing filter cleaning is needed, can greatly increase the life of the leach field. Also, a grease trap can help – also needs cleaning. I think it would help if the grey water were plumbed to the 2nd chamber of the septic tank – taking long showers tends to push floating material into the laterals
I’m going to college for writing, but sometimes I wish I had gone into plumbing. When I was a kid I watched TOH all the time and even back then I remember always loving every time Richard would show up on screen to talk about plumbing or heating. It didn’t matter if my house didn’t have a gas line or a boiler system It was still absolutely amazing to watch someone so passionate about what he does.
If you have land that perks well and you don’t plant any trees on the leech field, your septic system will last a lifetime. Parents 70’s ranch house is getting close to 50 years old, never had a single issue with the septic system. Also number of people living in the house effects how often you have it pumped. Big Irish-catholic family, yeah every 2-3 years. Empty nest couple, probably push it to 3-4 years.
I got my septic pumped out last year and the guy almost immediately said “that’s what I like to see” and “this is a nice healthy tank.” Made me feel good and also made me realize that some people take their job seriously and probably get really annoyed when some tanks are filled with things that aren’t supposed to be there.
I am putting in a new split system with a little bit more plumbing. 1. Toilets plumbed to a traditional septic system.. but only 300 gals to a smaller sized leach field. (We considered compost toiletd.. but we live in California and a certain county which frowns upon it)… 2. Sinks, showers, tub, dishwasher & washing machine will be plumbed to a grey water tank then to a surface gravel bed slightly above grade of some fruit trees. …we scrape off plates into bins for compost heap and are using old fashion screens in sinks to capture hair & food scraps.. do no need for a disposal.. We will use bio friendly cleaning supplies, soap and detergents. 🙃 hope it works…
Those septic “treatments” that Richard referred to are one of the worst things you can add to a septic system because they help dissolve and mobilize the sludge. Those solids will proceed to your leach field and will plug the soil. The best option is have the tank pumped regularly. Start at a 5 year interval and adjust based on the scun and sludge measurements. Septic pumpers have tools to measure each. Consider it maintenance and be thankful you don’t pay sewer bills. Also note many tanks are not partioned. Pass sludge to the leach field and you’ve got a really big bill.
Me and my dad bought a place in a rural area near a small town (country setting). It has a septic and the house itself had tons of problems being made with cinder block (cracked footer causing cracks in the walls, no real good insulation above ceiling or in walls). My dad passed away in 2016 and I was trying to get ahold of the previous owner to find out information and the old man and his wife are both supposedly in old folk home somewhere in who knows what condition healthwise and the two sons wont answer my messages. I was trying to determine where the septic is located and I heard you can go get the information from the local health department as they are supposed to have records of all water wells drilled and all septic systems installed. My problem is the place was built in 1960 and the address has changed over the years and I have no idea what the address was back then. And I really dont feel like trying to poke around in the yard cause there was gravel in the yard and it was pretty packed so that itself would pose a challenge trying to drive a poker through that to find a septic. My other thought is the age. I have been using it but Im concerned about what I read about septics, I read 30-40 years and if they put it in when they built it, its already twice that age. I bet they cost a lot to put a new one in too
Two items to mention: 1. Natural enzyme vs Dried Active Yeast (also natural) which is (probably) cheaper and absolutely readily available; about 100g per 1,000 gallons tank, just flush normally and done! 2. Grease Traps basin which collects all the grey water from bathroom shower & all sinks, including kitchen— where most grease can flow into the system— flows into a small chamber (with lid) that allows water to enter in near the bottom and directly across, water exits just under the surface, which is fitted with a downwards facing 90° elbow and the “scum” just floats over the top without going into the septic tank— periodic cleaning and de-gunk keeps your tank grease free. Hope it helps someone. Don’t septic tank need a “breather” tube? Thanks for the article, it was just what I was looking for.
I put in stainless steel strainers in all of my drains–the kitchen and bath sinks, and the shower. It is amazing how much ‘stuff’ is held in these strainers. The Japanese kitchens have a strainer that is about seven inches long and has to be removed and dumped into the garbage only about once a week. I have not been able to locate one here in the US but I will keep looking. I would also like to install a grease trap at the bottom of my kitchen sink’s p trap. Grease is even a problem for central municipal systems.
I work in septic maintenance, those enzymes are useless and in worst case are MORE dangerous for the drainfield. They can keep the sludge layer from settling, sending smaller particles through your baffles and clog the soil around your drainfield. The only time the enzymes might be useful is if someone has been on chemo or harsh medications so they killed their tank bateria. Consult your doctor and septic professional about the right way to proceed. Otherwise, have a nice healthy poo and you will inoculate you tank will all the bacteria it needs! 🙂 free daily enzymes booster
I rerouted my washing machine line to my sump pit, it goes through a filter when it enters the pit and then is pumped out to the drainage ditch at the road, I used to clean my paint brushes in my laundry sink in the basement but now I just let them dry out and toss them (rollers too), I just buy cheap disposable brushes and rollers now. Other than that it’s just the toilets and showers and the kitchen and bathroom sinks that go into the septic, my wife works for a local septic company so we generally get the tanks pumped every 3-4 years and I add the septic stuff every month like clockwork, 20 years now never had an issue, my wife brings the phone home on the weekends and just about every call she gets is someone backing up and of course they have never had the tanks pumped or it’s been a really long time since they have.
I had a new tank and a cesspit put in (it was allowed by the inspector as I didn’t have the square footage for a big field). Installer never put an effluent filter on the outbound side and only two years later the cesspit stopped leaching liquid into the soil and I had a massive wet spot in the lawn. I had the system pumped, then I put risers on the tank and cesspit for ease of access, installed an effluent filter myself (you do not want to be hanging upside down in your septic tank but you do what you have to) and put a koi pond air pump in my basement and ran the hose to a diffuser in the cesspit to start aerobic breakdown. I also ran the grey water elsewhere. Just taking your washing machine off the septic will go a long way to helping keep your septic system alive.
That was by far the best demonstration of a septic system. Being a country boy I know all about them having grown up with them and actually installed a few myself. We never had our tank pumped, were diligent about what went down the pipe, had some of the greenest grass over the leach field. Every spring we would pull effluent from the tank and fertilize the garden with it and had what i call Chernobyl carrots, they were huge. It was a messy job but my parents kept a septic system for 30 years with no issues other than really thick green grass.
Soil is pretty incredible. It treats wastewater. Most people horribly neglect their septic systems. And pay the price. Get your tank pumped out every 3-5 years. Know where your drain field is! Don’t run it over, build anything on it! A new septic system or repair is thousands of dollars!! You take care of your car, take care of your septic system. The additives you see for sale don’t do anything. Waste of money. Prevent grease from going into the system as well.
Funny you should mention paint lol. That’s why I’m researching this. I’m installing an outdoor utility sink, mainly, to clean paint brushes and rollers and keep them out of the house. What is the responsible thing to run the drain pipe to? I mean it has to go somewhere. Everyone’s house is painted and the brushes / rollers were rinsed somewhere, I assure you. Help me out please
10/10 on the demo. IMO on the newer systems the trash tanks are only 200-300 gallons so with 90 gallons of sludge per person per year you’re pumping biannually. I have an aerobic system & my bacteria colony accidentally got destroyed so now I’m suffering from the 12-16 weeks of hydrogen-sulfide(rotten egg smell) that is produced until my aerobic colony is back up the the populations my household needs.
thoughts on drano and other similar products? if you use drano once, can you supplement the bacteria that was killed with the enzyme solution? i have a brand new septic tank – my sink has a clog and i havent been able to get a snake far enough to find it, so im hoping some drano can help me temporarily until the summer when i can dig up the pipe outside and put in a cleanout.
This article is missing some important info. You can buy an effluent filter for $50 that is far better than that T, and keeps logs and loafs from getting into the drain field. Also, the tank is anaerobic but the drain field is aerobic. Wash too much anaerobic bacteria into the drain field and it will clog. This is especially likely with deep drain lines, since oxygen only goes 2-3’ below ground. A fix is to install a fish pond aerator into the tank which converts the whole system to aerobic. These bacteria are 20x more aggressive than anaerobic, will eventually clear and restore the drain field. A number of products are made to do this, or you can build one yourself.
I inherited a vacation home that originally belonged to my grandparents . They replaced the original cesspool on the property with a septic system in 1964 . I haven’t had a problem with it since taking it over in 1987 . I’ve had it pumped and inspected several times .. the septic contractor said that whoever installed it at the time knew what they were doing. Thank goodness .. I can’t imagine what a new system would cost now in 2023 !
I’m very glad you did say that the septic system does need to be cleaned out or pumped out every few years !! I can’t tell you how many people don’t ever have their septic system cleaned out or pumped out . Most people don’t even know what a baffle in the septic system is for . Only until it’s backed up, then they go nuts . Good article !!
Been perusal this old house forever and have learned so much, but you missed the boat a little on this one. A healthy septic system has bacteria as well as enzyms. Enzyms are great for grease, hair, etc in the pipes especialy. But is anerobic bacteria that digests the material when it gets to the tank. You also failed to mention the most important cause of tank problems, namely the overuse of BLEACH in laundry, and DISINFECTING AGENTS used in cleaning products poured down the drain, that kill the benificial BACTERIA. Also would help to advise people on the best time to use enzyms,(pour it down the drain just before bedtime, or better yet before leaving for a weekend, best of all before leaving on vacation) the longer the enzyms are sitting in the pipes before being washed out by use, the better!!! KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!
Typical North American septic system is solution to a problem that is very expensive, and doesn’t work as well as most people think. It is an expensive system to build; depending where you live, it can cost $15,000 to $20,000 or more. After a number of years the soil in the leeching bed gets saturated to the point where it cannot accept any more waste, and you then have a blocked system. The solution to that problem is to dig up all the leeching pipes, replace all the saturated soil with new, and replace all the tiles. You are then looking at another 15K to 20K. That can happen every 8 to 12 years or even more often if the leeching bed was not done right. Also, if the system is too close to a well, you will eventually pollute the well where it becomes un-usable. Not a great system at all. Europeans do it better. They have banned septic tank leeching beds, because they are environmentally bad. They install a large septic tank, either concrete or glassibre, which when close to being filled gets emptied by a sewage truck. Depending on your water usage, and family size, as well as the tank size, you may need to empty the tank every 6 or 8 months. The sewage gets transported to a facility that cleans it, and disenfects it. So, that’s it. Very simple, and much, much less expensive solution to a problem if you don’t have city or municipal sewage system. Like many things when it comes to construction, North Americans are often times a hundred years or more behind Europeans.
The piping is the problem, thats what we call French drains, which we stopped using 100 years ago here the Septic Systems we use here now has two stand alone tanks separated by pipe, then we have 2 x 13 metre trenches with concrete dome running the full length of the trench filling the void along the domes and trench wall with aggregate, 20mm to 30mm, no grease should enter the system if Grease Traps are built for water coming from the kitchen sink, plus using bio degradable soaps in the bathroom and laundry, plus anyone getting quoted over $10K should find another contractor, as the total for materials are about $3K, for people with a very small block 1/8th acre as an example should use a Bio Septic System, a Bio System is a all in one system so no need for Leach Drains
I have a low pressure septic system, wherein the effluence is pumped, under low pressure, into the septic field. I have to put 3 lbs of copper sulfate into the tank every 6 months to inhibit the growth of feeder roots into the distribution system, in order to keep the system clear of roots and keep it working properly.
I always thought it was the anaerobic bacteria that made this system function but when I moved to Southeastern Louisiana they install an air-pump that bubbles air into the tank through a tubing that is roughly 1/4 or 3/8 inch. So do the systems here utilize both anaerobic and aerobic bacteria? We had ours pumped after 13 years and the pump-guy said it was amazingly clean and clear. Is the air-pump why or that we don’t use a garbage disposal unit in our kitchen (because I heard the fibers can interfere with the action)?
How did this happen but it did in Nokomis septic in Nokomis Florida where Michelle Bridges took her purse after beating her husband Scott who owned Nokomis septic and she brought methamphetamine to the jail at Venice Police Department in Venice Florida and her son got taken away from her for custody the stepmother Tammy Brown raised that child who evidently went into the army you’re welcome in the US seriously
I have a question that I can’t get an answer to, I think it baffles the plumbers and the septic people! Only when we get a lot of rain our 3 toilets will not flush, but the crazy thing is that all other drains work perfectly! Even the washing machine! The plumbers say that the vents are fine, ran cameras and everything. They say it’s a septic issue. The septic guys pumped the tanks and say it’s a plumbing issue. 🤪 In the meantime nobody fixes it and we’re stuck in limbo until we get an answer. Please help with some ideas as what the cause might be. This is maddening. Thank you!
I have a round tank with a seperate tank that collects the scum layer that I clean out twice a year and am about to start using a bio cleaning product called Septic Plus. I live alone and am 100% serious about not having anything except toilet paper and poop go down my toilet. All my waste waters I collect and pump onto my 50 fruit trees.
You should pump your tank every 3-5 years. You failed to mention that solid accumulated over time doesn’t breakdown and needs to be pumped out. Also, the gas accumulation will deteriorate the tank structure if it’s not released at least every 5 years. The system needs a break and the ability to “breathe: every so often.
OK, so as we know, an algorithm is used to collect and deliver content into our youtube ‘inboxes’. So an algorithm is just a process – a collection of instructions. I guess the algorithm must also have some ‘random pick’ criteria, and that’s how having never watched anything on septic systems, a article on that subject appears in my list…..
I’ve had my septic pumped out completely, but then in the secondary tank, I had backflow from the leitching bed come back in. I am monitoring it daily to prevent overflow. What should I do? Can the field pipes be clogged? Can they be cleaned out? I am using a scoop of Septo each week to promote breakdown. Help me please. I don’t want to have to dig it all up. Thx
We live a farm and only thing that goes in our septic is the toilet. Agree that Ridex is counterproductive after wasting lots of money over the years on it and 2 different septic companies advising against it. I have gotten tired of pumping it out more often than I would like so we just installed a Neo 185 Bidet for less than $50.00. Since toilet paper buildup was the only reason we had to have it pumped, our days of pumping it out may forever be over. Gonna save a significant amount of money on both TP and pumping costs. Plus, we love it!
Basically, septic tank is a filter. The cleaner the water goes out of the tank the longer the fields will last the outlet baffle you want in the sweet spot. It’s wherever the cleanest water is in the tank. Usually around midway. You’re slug which goes to the bottom of the tank and you’re scum layer that goes to the top. Does not do it that fast. It doesn’t like it goes in the tank and separates quickly. It’s not like just under the scum layer it’s clean they’ll be particles going down underneath the scum fort floats back up again, same with the sludge doesn’t drop like a rock, takes time for it to go down, but it definitely separates right in the middle so that’s where your cleaning spot is. Might not be exactly in the middle. That’s why you have to find a sweet spot. Usually an access spot right above the outlet baffle if you check that it should look pretty clean and you know it’s doing good.
Another thing to worry about is sand. Not only does our house have septic tank, but it also has an underground well water pump. And that hard well water has some sand & sediment that also gets sucked up & then it eventually goes down the drain into the septic. I know we have sand because we can see it. We do not drink it, we only use that well water for washing dishes & showers etc. We buy bottled water & bring in cleaner tap water from another building for drinking. After 4 decades living in this home, I have to wonder how much sand has accumulated in the sludge portion, giving it less volume to break down solids. It would be nice if modern tanks have some sort of level meter or camera inside, despite the grossness you might see, but with such sensors, it could help gauge the condition of your tank, knowing a little better if you can relax or you know something bad is impending soon, like a backflush drainage or whatever, so you have less expectancy of an emergency.
A homeowner can get a length of clear 2″ pvc pipe Mark it at 1’ intervals with a string through it connected to a plug stick it in the tank straight to the bottom then pull the string to plug it and pull it up to get a look at how deep the solids are to determine when the tank needs to be pumped. Many homes can go 5-10 years without pumping if you watch the levels. Most just do it every 4 years but you can save that money by checking the solid levels yourself if you do it right. There are YouTube articles on it.
I still do not understand the second compartment. We get our septic cleaned every 2 years. That means that by the time the solids are high enough to allow the liquid to drain into the second compartment it’s already a year old. Then the liquid has to be high enough to drain into the septic filed pipes which is another year to get up that high. What am I missing?
We have a gravity fed dosing siphon that pressure doses our sand mound and learned a lot about it this past year. The level in the dosing tank would always remain constant, which prompted my investigation. They can lose prime and the siphon will not work properly. Instead of dosing the drain field, water will trickle through, constantly wetting the drain field. The siphon has to be installed perfectly level in the tank or it won’t function properly. I’ve installed float switches and PLC controller to monitor when dosing occurs. Most people with a siphon have no clue about these issues because the they think as long as water isn’t backing up and high water alarm isn’t tripping thay everything is OK, when in reality you are decreasing the life of your drain field by the dosing not working as intended.
Nicely explained. I have a question: I bought a property where the previous owner planted several cherry trees on the septic field, but not directly over the tank area. I’m considering removing the trees, but I’m unsure if their roots have already caused damage to the drainage system. My current plan is to regularly empty the tank to prevent the septic field from being overly taxed until I figure out a solution and remove the trees. Do you think this is a wise approach, or would it be better to confirm if the septic field is utilized when the tank is nearly full? Thanks in advance for your advice.
ok double disclaimer. I read this on the internet and I have not done it. lol. But. I did just recently see a comment regarding an anecdote from a municipal sewage engineer that diluting and flushing used radiator ( car ) coolant encouraged the bacteria to do their job. Urban myth? Only works with municipal treatment? Or also works with septic? Save the snark just the facts please.
I have a really old conventional septic system, but the line between the grease trap to the septic tank is totally clogged. Every time I have the trap pumped out within two to three days it fills up and starts overflowing. The septic company refuses to snake it out, and me being disabled I can’t. I heard that if I add lye to the grease trap, it would dissolve the grease in the line. Do you know if that really works??
How do you clean latex paint off of paint brushes? How do avoid all food-grade oils or grease from collecting? You still have to wash the pan or dish with oils on it, even if you pour the grease into the garbage first? Does dish soap break down the oils to prevent collection in the tank? What about household cleaners, or bleach in laundry?
I have a spot in my yard, about 70 yards from the house, where the grass grows tall and bright green, it’s wet and smells slightly. I dug it out and found the end of what I think is a leach field pipe with water coming out fairly steadily. My question is, should these drain pipes be capped at the end?
The house we purchased has a septic system and a garbage disposal in it.. who the heck puts a garbage disposal in when you have a septic tank? We have had nothing but problems and the previous owner did not even mention there was an issue when we purchased the house. I am sure the drain lines are full and will have to be replaced. We have had to have it pumped off at least once every 3 months 😡
As an inspector and regulatory sewage enforcement officer in PA. 3 years is a great rule of thumb, never more. It’s cheap insurance to get it pumped sooner then later to protect your investment of $30k-60k. Adding enzymes to much can cause a champagne affect where so many little bubbles are rising that the solids can’t effectively settle to the bottom and solids work their way into the drain field. Shortening the life of the system.
You should NEVER go “5-10 years” without a pump out. 5 is the max legally in some jurisdictions near lakes. 3-5 years is normal. My neighbor went too long and had to replace his whole leach field – $35,000. Oh and multiple people I have spoken to say that see septic using that Rid-Ex and ones not using it, there is no difference. They think it is unnecessary.
If you haven’t eaten it or won’t eat it don’t put in your septic system. In cold climate areas use hot water for washing in fall and winter to prevent the septic system from freezing, also cover tanks with leaves. Install a good filter to catch laundry fibers and hair from the showers, this will help keep clogging material out of the drainfield.
i am on city water in one of America’s largest cities and I pour bacon grease down the drain every week. Because, I just do not care enough to not to. I probably SHOULD care, to be a better citizen and all…. but I do not. BUT. I DO mix hot bacon grease with Dawn dish soap to “break up” the grease…. maybe it will not sludge up the city pipes as bad… hopefully. But yah, if I was on septic, I would probably care a whole, whole lot more than I do.
When we were looking for a new home a few years ago, I always avoided homes with a septic system. With no experience using one, I was too afraid of it. Last year I visited a home that had a septic system with two leach fields. They had the most beautiful grass and gardens I have seen in a long time. Definitely some advantages to a septic system😁
I’m an excavation contractor and have installed hundreds over the years. The best thing you can do is install an effluent filter on the outlet pipe. Also, a lid riser to make accessing the filter easier. I cannot stress this enough! I will not install a new system without one, even if it is not on the stamped drawings. If you don’t maintain your system (periodically, have it pumped) the filter will stop the suspended solids from entering your drain field. This is the whole purpose of having your system pumped regularly in the first place. As far as frequency of pumping goes, 5 years is often enough. Every time you have your system pumped you are removing the necessary bacteria that keeps your system operating properly.
GREAT article for city folks moving to the country who have no idea about this.. Imagine buying a house and putting a concrete driveway over your tank or field, because you never looked at the septic plan. And uh oh, you get a back up down the road, they come to pump and the fun begins! Thank you for posting this! It’ll help a lot of folks!
OMG Richard, you just did more harm than good. Every system should be pumped every 2-3 years. Some states regulate that it WILL be pumped on schedule. THE BIGGEST harm is too much water at one time. If your wife or kids like 20 min showers one after the other, it stirs the sediment up and floats it to the second chamber where it will go to drainfield and plug it up. once it is suspended, it floats down hill. NEVER buy riddex if you have low bacteria, Pour in a small bottle of yeast at night and flush before bed. Riddex or anything else is a scam. The reason septics fail, is the drainfield can no longer absorb water because of silt lining the ground and it all backs up. I pumped and rebuilt for over 10 years, the cause and effect is simple.
When the city finally extended the sewer system to my neighborhood, we just abandoned the septic system in place. After hooking up the house to the new sewer, we took a 20 foot long steel spike and used a sledge hammer to knock holes in the bottom of the tank to allow ground water ingress and prevent the tank from floating.
I Have a septic designer and installer living down the street, I told him I have never thrown any paper or anything down like that and I have been on septic for 30 years and do not have a garbage disposal either, compost. He said thats what I recommend also. I have cans set up for paper, just pretend that your camping.