Tongue and groove siding is a popular choice for external cladding in homes due to its durability, tradition-steeped aesthetic, and versatility. It can be installed horizontally or vertically, starting at the bottom and working up with the grove edges facing downwards to ensure a weather-tight wall. Siding up to 6 inches wide can be blind nailed with one casing nail per bearing toe-nailed through the base of each tongue.
To install tongue and groove siding, gather the right materials and tools, measure and plan the layout, and ensure the wall is secure. Measure, mark, and cut each tongue and groove exterior plank to size based on the pitch of the roof and the bottom edge of the wall. Fit groove edges into tongue edges, securing into plywood backing.
Pass dye over the sides of the siding and tongue and groove edges before installation to avoid gray joints. Install the siding one by one, starting from the bottom and working up with the groove edges facing downwards. Professionals can generally install a square (100 square feet) of tongue and groove siding in about 4-6 hours, but some designs take longer.
When installing shiplap, it is recommended to face nail it when installing it on your walls. Timber used for building retaining walls is typically used for siding, but it seems like an excellent choice for its look and pricing. Overall, tongue and groove siding is a versatile and cost-effective option for homeowners looking to enhance their home’s exterior cladding.
📹 How To Install Tongue and Groove Exterior Siding // ARBOR WOOD CO
Learn how to install Arbor Wood’s Thermally Modified Pine Wall Cladding around a window using a vented rainscreen-style …
Do you start with tongue or groove against wall?
To install planks in a kitchen, start by laying them from left to right, with the tongue side against the starting wall. Keep a 3/8-inch to 5/8-inch spacer between the wall and the planks on either side of each joint and at the far ends of each plank. The last plank in a row must be at least 12 inches long. Remove the groove on the last plank and measure the first row before installing. If the last plank is at least 12 inches long, cut the first plank and install the first row accordingly.
For the first plank of the second row, use the cut plank left over from the first row, provided it is more than 12 inches long. Remove the bottom lip of the groove and tongue from the ends of the planks against the walls.
Should tongue and groove be tight?
Wood floor professionals must ensure that their flooring is checked for proper tongue and groove profiles, which should be snug but not tight. Accurate board width measurement can be achieved using various tools, with the caliper being the most accurate. If you’re looking for a specific product or company, Wood Floor Business offers the industry’s only comprehensive database. This ensures that the flooring will not fall apart if shaken.
How to attach tongue and groove siding?
Tongue and groove siding can be installed horizontally or vertically. In horizontal applications, start at the bottom and work up with groove edges facing downwards. Siding up to 6 inches wide can be blind nailed with one siding nail per bearing toe-nailed through the base of each tongue. Wider pieces should be face nailed using two nails per piece. Nails must penetrate 1-1/4 inches into solid wood. In vertical applications, start at one corner with grooved edge toward the adjacent wall and use a level or plumb line to ensure a flush fit.
Do you start tongue and groove at top or bottom?
To create a staggered wall paneling, start at one corner of the wall and level the first board using a hand level or laser level. Position the tongue of the board towards the ceiling and the groove towards the floor. Use a nail gun to tack the board in place, ensuring to hit any studs. Use both long and short boards for a nice look. Lay the boards row by row, securing a new row of tongue and groove paneling by sliding the groove into the tongue. Use small cut-off pieces to improve the pattern and prevent waste.
Do you glue tongue and groove cladding?
To secure tongue-and-groove panels over tiles, use a silicone adhesive to ensure they remain in place and prevent cracking or breaking. Once installed, run a small bead of silicone adhesive inside the panels’ joinings to create a watertight seal, especially if they are placed above a bath or shower. Hold in place until the adhesive has set and push into the joiner, corner, or end trims. If excess adhesive comes through, wipe it away to prevent mould growth.
Finally, fit the panel trims, which help hide exposed edges and create a neat, seamless appearance. There are various styles of PVC panel trims, corners, and accessories available in both aluminum and PVC styles. Before purchasing, ensure the trims serve the correct purpose and choose the one that serves the correct purpose. An overview of the types of panel trims and their purpose can be found in the provided resources.
How to make tongue and groove waterproof?
After installing tongue-and-groove panels, apply a small bead of silicone adhesive to create a watertight seal, especially if placed above a bath or shower. Hold the adhesive in place until it has set and push it into the joiner, corner, or end trims. If any excess adhesive comes through, wipe it away to prevent mold growth.
Next, fit the panel trims to hide exposed edges and create a seamless appearance. There are various PVC panel trims, corners, and accessories available in both aluminum and PVC styles. Before purchasing, ensure the trims serve the correct purpose.
End caps are used around doorways or across featured panel walls for an aesthetic finish. They can be installed before the panels, allowing the panels to be slotted into the end cap grooves. External corner trims are recommended for panelling a whole room, joining two panels together at the corner of a room. Internal corners are the reverse of external corner trims, with slots for wall panels.
In summary, installing tongue-and-groove panels requires careful consideration of trims and their purpose. Choosing the right trims can help create a neat and seamless appearance.
How do you finish pine for outdoor use?
Pine woodwork and outdoor furniture can be protected from sun or weather damage by applying a finish. Three main types of finishes for pine include polyurethane, paint, or epoxy. These finishes give the wood a bright, clean look and can withstand regular outdoor use. To apply the finish, find a spot with ample air circulation and lay a tarp on top to prevent staining. If you are sensitive to strong odors, wear a respirator before handling polyurethane.
Can you use pine for exterior siding?
Pine is a cost-effective option for exterior wood siding, but its fast growth, rot-proneness, cupping, and widespread presence in lumber yards have led to higher costs over the past 50+ years. In 2008, three major changes occurred in the lumber industry: old-timers lost their jobs, and lumber yards stopped carrying non-vital inventory to survive. Therefore, pine is not a viable choice for cost-effective exterior siding.
Does tongue and groove need glue?
The text emphasizes the importance of no glue in the T and G joint, as individual boards need to expand and contract individually. To solve the exposed unfinished tongue issue, pre-stain and finish the tongues before assembly. The author also advises using quarter-sawn wood for rails and stiles to prevent cupping and twisting with moisture changes, and now applies this method to interior cabinet doors.
Can you waterproof tongue and groove?
Wetwall™ is a waterproof, tongue-and-groove bathroom panel system that locks water out without grout, making bathroom transformation quicker, cheaper, and easier than shower tile. It’s an innovative design material that can be installed over tile, antimicrobial, and cost-effective. The system offers design ideas, installation tips, and a full suite of options in a downloadable catalog, making it an attractive and cost-effective solution for bathroom renovations.
How long will pine last outdoors?
Untreated pine, which can be utilized in construction projects, typically exhibits a lifespan of 5 to 10 years, contingent upon its exposure to the elements. However, the longevity of the material is significantly affected by its use in outdoor settings.
📹 How To Install Tongue and Groove Wood Planks Siding
… beautiful so today we’re going to be talking about how to install this tongue and groove pine wood siding it’s absolutely beautiful …
The way you have the Cor-A-Vent siting on top of the vertical window side furring strip is incorrect. The orientation of the holes in the Cor-A-Vent will catch water and it will sit on top of the furring strip and rot it. Butting the furring strip against the bottom of the Cor-A-Vent creates a water dam. Viewers, dont do this. Make sure water has a way out.
For the outlets would you need outlet box extensions? How about windows corners and doors? Trim necessary? Inside of windows if you had sheetrock would you have to add wood instead to match up? I’m going to paint mine if I go that route. Any special primer? I’m considering using tongue and groove in leu of sheetrock as I can’t get skim coating down pat yet.
You should 22½° the seams on the studs. You could go 45°, but that’s more than necessary. Also the side facing out in the article is typically the side you put against the studs. I personally prefer using tongue and groove that has prefinished ends (end matched) meaning theres a tongue and groove on the ends of the boards as well. When you cut the last board to fit the current span, you use the cut edge of the the leftover as your starter for the next row. It’s also a good idea to use a small cutoff chunk of board as a block to hammer against on top of your boards you’re installing, because sometimes they don’t sit tight against the row beneath them. This prevents you unintentionally smashing the tongue by hitting it directly with your hammer. And you always use a spacer under your bottom row. Usually ½” to ¾” to allow space for flooring to be installed as well as to allow for expansion. Never sit them tight to the subfloor.
what about corners? We are installing this and had one wall done from floor to ceiling. But when starting the connecting wall, only the bottom 4 or 5 boards lined up in the corner for that straight line from wall to wall. Each one going up, is off just a small amount, and the more you go up the more the line is off. It just don’t make sense unless the board is actually a different height than the others? Anyway, I noticed at windows you cut the board out (notched out) on the long board. I’m curious, going on up the window did you use a long board and notch it out all the way up? Or just cut the board from wall to window and same on other side?
I’m wondering what you plan to use to seal all of this. And did you seal it before you installed? Or will you do that once you’re completely done? We recently purchased a home and I want to do an accent wall (to begin with) with T&G knotty pine. But I have no idea what to use as a finish and whether to finish them before installation or afterward. Thanks for any advise.
I have a small home. I want to make it look like a cabin interior. I have been looking for articles like this because that’s exactly what I would like to do over the existing drywall. I’m planing on stone or brick style walls to offset all the wood and white shiplap on ceilings with can lights. The home is about 1100 square feet. I would like to know what kind of planking this is and is there a more affordable option to get the similar look as your article? Also, what do you do with the corners of 2 walls meeting with the same planks? Does one side wall butt on the other side wall and you trim the corner?
Thanks Klaus! I am renovating a 90 year old cabin and nothing is square or plumb. It’s balloon construction and built on surface pilings (not sunk into the ground). There is not a level surface in the building. I have (at least) two issues. The first is obvious and the second maybe not so. The second problem is that if I put anything too square, crisp, “perfect”, it shows how out of whack everything else is. This is typically not a problem for me since square, crisp, and “perfect” are words that somewhat over state my ability. Nevertheless the second issue is a consideration. Back to the first, my floor drops 1.5″ over 18 feet and it’s not a straight line. Starting flat on the floor is not an option. I’ll end up having my wife help (she is a very good saw man although hates the term) and she brings me patience. Once the bottom row is right the rest should come together rather quickly until we reach the ceiling/floor above. That floor is uneven in a different way! Boy this is going to be worth it though.