The Grand Cherokee has ambient lighting that can be controlled through the Uconnect system, allowing you to change the color and brightness of the lighting to match your preferences. To update the interior lighting on your 2017-2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee WK2, you can use LED lights for brighter areas like living rooms or sitting areas.
Insufficient refrigerant in the AC system can cause the AC to blow hot air, which can be caused by various factors. Check the AC system fuses and replace any blown ones. Inspect all electrical connections related to the AC system for leaks, bad compressors, or low coolant levels.
To remove the heater control unit, undo the six tiny bolts at the rear and turn all knobs all the way to the left. If the 96 XJ Sport interior lights behind the AC/heater controls do not work, use a wide flat bladed tool to get behind the center trim panel and pull rearward. These lights have small bulbs behind them that can be changed, and most people replace them with LED lights.
In summary, updating the interior lighting on your Grand Cherokee WK2 is a simple and cost-effective solution to improve the interior’s lighting. If you encounter any issues, it’s recommended to consult a professional mechanic for proper installation and maintenance.
📹 Grand Cherokee A/C Control Unit Light Bulb Replacement (WK)
Rather than spending $50+ on a new control unit, let me show you how to fix it on your own for a couple of bucks! Here’s the bulbs …
📹 Replacing Bulbs in Climate Control 1999-2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee
#martinbuilt #jeepgrandcherokee #jeepgrandcherokeeupgrades.
I replaced the three bulbs on my daughters 2005 Jeep GC today. I followed the article instructions and the project went flawlessly. As an engineer I am shocked that an automotive design engineer would require someone to get to the pc board level to change a bulb and to make it require unsoldering and soldering. I ordered the bulbs as shown on ebay, it was about $10 for 5 bulbs incl shipping. Thank you so much for taking your time in putting the article together; it was well done and had the right amount of detail.
Thanks for this. As opposed to taking off external parts, pulling off the interior always takes guts and someone showing some details is so valuable! I have a 2006 with the regular entertainment unit so that part is different – there is one clip on the bottom of the bezel underneath the radio that you just pull to free, and then the rest sort of wiggles out.. On my car, the silver trim ring around the shifter has 6-8 tabs on it – not the long tabs on the article, and comes out by hand, worry-free. One thing to note is that the vertical bezel that holds the control unit may not easily pop off as in the article. The top may come off more easily, but the bottom is something else. You get your hand underneath it, at the bottom, and pull hard. It takes guts to do this stuff because you always think that something might break. Always try to use hands versus tools, which have the power to break stuff or at the very least may leave a mark. I do have to say – if you do not have decent soldering experience, the actual circuit board part may be difficult. Make sure you use tips and solder size as in the article. That said, let’s say you try it and that part doesn’t work so well. All that does is get you to the point where you need to buy a new head, which is cheap, and just screw it in!
I cannot thank you enough for sharing your knowledge! you explained so well. i just fixed mine thanks to you! this was something that i wanted fixed but did not have the money and thanks to you i feel so proud that I fixed it myself! thank you so much!!!…. NOW!…. I like your stereo, can you give me info on what is it and where you bought it? did you mount it yourself? once again THANK YOU!
Thank you for this article. I had the same problem with my 2006 Grand Cherokee Laredo. One thing that may have been missed, there is a screw in the back of the bottom compartment of the control bezel.Mine was a regular Phillips. Mine did not come off until I remove it, so don’t force it. You see the slotted hole bottom compartment about 3:31 in this vid.
I would like to know if these three bulbs are wired in series (since the lighting seems to die all at once), and if anyone knows a good LED replacement. If they’re in series, its likely that only one is blown – but it’s still probably a good idea to change them all. Unlike the incandescent bulbs, LED’s are polarized and would need to be soldered in the right orientation. A series resistor would also be needed, unless it was integrated into the LED assembly.
NOTE: When putting car on D. Dont forget your handbrake. As this car will move on D. And in EU, when you got Automatic trans. then nobody ever uses handbrake or E-brake as you wish. There for the handbrake is never working.. Hand to take a deep breath, when you put the car on D, but saw the handbrake..
The article great if your going to replace the circuit board on the climb control but you never show when you put it in and what would happen if the plug for the climate control doesn’t not match the setting and how would you relying or fix the settings so make sure it works correctly with the plugs and back of the for the air plugs
Hey people. I’m working on this right now, but I’ve researched about replacing these with 3mm inverted cone LEDs with 560ohm resistor. I read that heat is what makes these go out and LEDs are just more effiecient. Here’s a few links jeepforum.com/forum/f67/need-dash-lights-ac-heat-knobs-665155/#/topics/665155?page=4 jeepforum.com/forum/f67/hvac-switch-lighting-thread-1334788/#/topics/1334788?page=3
I am tackling this problem presently on 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee. My situation is identical to yours. When i bought the vehicle last month none of the climate controls lit up so on the advice of another Jeep WK post i gave it the tap tap and one of the 3 lights came on. Not satisfied however, just wondering if your bulbs have lasted since your repair some 3 and a half years later?
I just replaced my AC/Heat bulbs as a result of perusal this article. $8 for bulbs off amazon (#2162 as directed) and now my ac/heat dials light up. I’m an idiot with a soldering iron so anyone can do this. One hint I wish the article had displayed how to separate the bulb wires from the ceramic base completely. first bulb I tried to remove broke as the wires were still soldered to the base. Even the maker of this article struggled with the first bulb removal as the bulb wires weren’t freed from the base. Other than that the whole job took an hour. Sooooo nice to see those controls light up ! thanks!!
Very nice work and well done. I have a Jeep Commander 3.0 CRD and looks like the 2 out of 5 (?) lights on climatronic are gone while all are off for the other 2 control modules: one with C/T, Reset, Step and the other with pedal adjust, seat heater, ESP on/off, parking system on/off. I understand that for A/C module you install EIKO 2162, what about for the other 2 modules? Is it EIKO 8111?
Thanks much I bought same bulbs at amazon. I had five bulbs to replace since I have the limited edition Only problem I had was the blue cover it didn’t come off it just fell apart so lighting is now different And now I will be looking for smaller bulbs for the information center they are all gone too it’s smaller size. Any one knows where to get it ? Thanks again
Just fixed the Lights in my 08 Grand Cherokee this weekend. They hadn’t worked in years. Wow what a difference. Definitely worth it. Makes me wonder why I didn’t do it sooner. If you’re thinking about it, do it. I recommend getting Trim Sticks for prying the trim off. $10 for a set from Amazon. Harbor Freight probably has them as well. Also a 5/32″ socket is worth tracking down for the little hex heads holding the module on the back of the trim. In the article you will see him using plyers. That will work but takes longer and more frustrating. I used the bulbs that were recommended from Amazon. The only tricky part is soldering on the board. There is very little room to make the connections. I barely got them on there, but they are holding. I’ll be happy if it lasts a couple of years. Next time I may track down LED’s. Thanks for posting the article. I would have never tried this without seeing it done. Peace.
Found your article very, very helpful! Like you, I have the Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo! And, 2 of the 3 lamps had failed, such as in your case. As recommended, Amazon.com had the replacement lamps. My most difficult task was removing the top section attached to the dash, but with careful and cautious prying it opened enough for me to get a good grip and pull. Unseating the many plugs on the wire-harness was challenging, but managed. I was a bit taken back by you using locking-pliers to removed the mounting screws on the rear assembly. Perhaps you edited your article to not include replacing the screws, as they were last viewed laying on your workbench. 😉 Using a 5/32 in. socket made removing and reinstalling the screws a piece of cake…. Mine have been replaced and will make night driving much more enjoyable. Thank you for your effort in creating this presentation. Best, Ed
Thank you for the article to show that it can be done. I just followed your article in attempting the same repair ( heater controls not lighting up) on my 2008 grand Cherokee Laredo. Though my dash came apart differently the repair was the same. To the followers reading these posts be careful when removing the bubs from the plastic pods they are brittle from the heat I ruined one by squeezing to hard with my needle nose pliers. But ended up just soldering the bulb directly to the board we’ll see how long that lasts but as for the entire job easy and worth taking the time to do all lights are working and don’t have to use dome light anymore. Thank you!!
Great article but I have a question. I am trying to change mine to LED (Polar) but how does this circuit works? Does it have polarity – +? I have tried with one, it worked quite well but then the rest of the board lights went off. Only my LED was working. Then I reversed the LED and this time nothing worked…. put back the worn light and still all of them are still out. Tried to switch the worn one as well but no changes… Now I am wondering if the board is a normal + – board and if I should just change all of them to LED? Does any one know or have the specs? I have noticed in your article you didn’t care about polarity
+Jack Brunson Jr. Hey Jack. Great post. Replacing mine with built-in resistor LEDs, they look like identical bulbs. Figured it’d be more efficient and last longer. I got 2 questions, I saw down in the comments you said you didnt need to see about pos and neg sides. For LEDs would I have to check them with the multimeter you think? Also, did u clean up the old solder or just add more solder and put em in? Cuz then I’d have to get solder wick
Great article. Just finished it. Works as shown. Only problem: I had blue covers on the bulbs. Almost destroyed the first one trying to take off the bulb. Silicone spray helped. Sprayed and then carefully pulled the rubber with my thumb nail. Went around the bulb several times. Each time I pulled further. Gave the silicone time to penetrate and you could feel how the rubber came lose. Silicone also helps to put them back on and also to put the black rubber mats from the smaller assemblies back on.
I used colored LED’s with 180 deg light dispersion. FT3G’s @ 6,000 mcd brightness (potential). Incandescent bulbs (2162 and similar) are spec’d at 1/10th the LED’s life and LED’s operate well under the designed voltage after you bring the brightness down. Unlike incandescent’s, they should last several life times. Note: my bulb cap’s looked factory blue but I found a perfect match with the greens. Oh, turn the climate knobs to left to find release notch/spot, pull off knobs by hand.
I think I’d opt for individual LED’s in their original spots simply because it’s surely more optimally placed for ensuring evenly distributed lighting, but also, I don’t know that I want to rely on adhesive to keep those lights in place. But the big takeaway here is that you marked the positives for us, that’s a huge help!
Thanks for the article. I really appreciate your level of detail. When working on projects like this I try for OEM look and not after market. I see that you do as well but you introduced the LED strips which enhanced the project but kept the OEM look. Great job! Will be tackaling this project on my daughter’s 2005 Grand Cherokee using your LED strip method.
Great article, Thanks for this. Getting organized to do this on my 04 limited, same unit. I do have a question about the LED lights. I found an LED strip that I’m wanting to get, but just before ordering it, I noticed that it said they were for 12v, 10A. Would you happen to know the AMP draw of the LED lights you used in yours, or if the 12v in the climate control unit would be able to do a 10A. The LED strip I want is 16ft. Is the 10A required to light the whole 16 ft, or would the climate control unit supply enough Amps to run a couple strips of 6 LED’s and a couple strips of 3 LED’s? Had almost talked myself into just a bulbs replacement, then googled the bulbs and Chrysler wants $40.38 for just the 1 bulb for the heater control knob. lol Will definately be doing the LED upgrade, just need to know about this 10A thing. Surely it’s wouldn’t take 10A to ren a couple strips of 6 LED’s?
Good job on the upgrade. I like the modern solutions to age old problems. I have been hating the dim lights on my Mustangs since the 90’s. With the modern LED’s and HID lights I can finally see the gauges at night. I even turn them on so I can see them in the day time too. They get washed out in the shadows.
Martin, do you by chance know the specs of the button’s status LEDs? The yellow lights that tell you if power is on/off for the recirc/AC/defrost? I’m working on a project for rebuilding the broken buttons and decided to test the status lights as well and I think they may be lower than 12V because I think I burned them out with my 12V power supply in my testing.
I followed your instructions to a T and I installed led bulbs instead of strips and they work until I plug the top plug in all the way till it clamps . If I barely put the top connector in they light up if I plug it all the way in they won’t work everything else does just not the lights I put in ..I tried it with the bottom clamp in and out as well… please help!!!! And let me know what to do