The Unit Color Compendium is a database for BattleTech unit color palettes and paint schemes. It provides images of painted miniatures in official color schemes and How-To articles on the web through the CamoSpecs Online guide. Each entry in the document contains full color photos of the paint schemes, as well as a description of selected combat commands. Additionally, it includes a tutorial on how to paint units in any way you want.
The CamoSpecs Online guide is essentially a full color guide to a variety of units, including individual house, mercenary, and independent units. It has been a valuable resource for sorting out units and making sense of conflicting and confusing unit name issues. Some units incorporate a “the” while others don’t, but still are listed with a “”.
In this series of videos, the author covers all of the painting tutorials for various paint schemes for individual house, mercenary, and independent units. They also provide advice on tools, paint, and paint schemes. For example, they split mechs into two color schemes, blue and red, for skirmish. The Stalker has a proper camo pattern, but odd colors are being used. In this instalment, the author discusses how to choose a custom color scheme for models and make choices that will look great on the table.
Some color cues can be found on the faction mech color schemes, such as the pirates mechs and aspects of the mercenary logo. Overall, the Unit Color Compendium offers a comprehensive resource for creating realistic and visually appealing miniatures for BattleTech enthusiasts.
📹 How to Pick Your Wargaming COLOR SCHEMES
Before you start basecoating, adding washes, glazing, drybrushing, all those things – what COLORS are you going to use on your …
What color is Steiner Battletech?
The Lyran Commonwealth’s military is dominated by the iconic color scheme blue, also known as “Steiner” blue. This color is used by premier forces like the Royal Guards, Lyran Guards, regional militias, and the Donegal Guards. The Lyran forces also use greens and tans as primary colors, as well as white.
Iconic paint colors include Apple Barrel Bright Blue, Citadel Teclis Blue and Lothern Blue, VGC Magic Blue, VMC Andrea Blue, and Reaper Brilliant Blue. Other primary paint colors include Apple Barrel Cloudless, Citadel Ice Blue, VMC Deep Sky Blue and Sky Blue, and Citadel Fenrisian Grey, VMC Light Sea Grey, and VGC Glacier Blue.
Blue is easy to paint and works well with either white or black primer. A base coat of Steiner blue or a darker blue like Vallejo Regal Blue can be used, and a targeted black wash works well with darker blues.
How to choose the right color?
To choose flattering colors, understand your natural colouring and match your clothing colors. The colors that affect your appearance are those worn next to your face, such as tops, scarves, or jewelry. Warm skin has a warm, golden appearance, which looks better in gold. Cool skin has rose/pink or blue tones, which may be fair or dark, and looks better in silver. Tanners may have a more ash-based color, making it better to wear silver instead of gold.
How to determine color scheme?
The 60-30-10 rule is a color selection guideline that helps establish a brand’s identity by using a primary color 60 times, a secondary color 30 times, and an accent color 10 times. This rule is crucial for designing products between wireframing and prototyping, as the color palette is just as important as the design structure. Careful consideration is needed when choosing colors for UIs. Once the color palette is chosen, it is essential to create interactive prototypes using UXPin to improve the design process and ensure design consistency. Signing up for a trial can help ensure a successful color palette.
How to choose color combinations?
Analogous color schemes are characterized by the juxtaposition of colors situated in proximity to one another on the color wheel, thereby establishing a harmonious visual effect. Complementary colors are positioned diametrically opposite on the color wheel, creating a high degree of visual contrast. Split-complementary palettes are characterized by a base color and two complementary colors on either side. A triadic color combination comprises three colors that are evenly spaced around the color wheel.
What is the 60 30 10 rule?
The 60-30-10 Rule is a classic decor rule that suggests that the 60th color should be the dominant color, the 30th color should be the secondary color or texture, and the last 10th color should be an accent. The 60th color represents the overall color of the room, while the 30th color serves as a secondary color that supports the main color while adding interest. By following this rule, you can create a visually appealing and visually appealing space.
What is the 3 color rule combination?
The ‘3 colour rule’ is a style concept that consists of a dominant color, a secondary color, and an accent color, all complementary to each other. This concept originated in art class when planning creative art pieces. By keeping the palette to three core colors, supplemented with black and white, the artwork is not too complicated for the viewer, providing a balanced and refined piece. The rule is effective in styling a look, as it is often used to create the quintessential ‘Undone’ look, as it ensures a balanced and refined look. The rule is a game changer in the worlds of art and fashion, making it a surefire way to create a unique and cohesive look.
What color is Skaven fur?
The Skaven, a race in the Warhammer World, are characterized by their fur color, which can indicate their rank. Most Skaven are brown or piebald, with larger, more deadly specimens like Stormvermin and Rat Ogres having darker fur. White or grey fur signifies leadership, intelligence, and possibly sorcerous abilities, possibly to distinguish leaders in dark underground tunnels. Skaven are twitchy and constantly agitated due to their energy-burning metabolism and hunger, leading to their reliance on fallen corpses. Female Skaven are rare and lethargic, giving birth to large litters of Ratmen at alarming rates, making them the most numerous race in the Warhammer World.
How to get a color analysis?
Color analysis is a process that helps individuals determine which colors flatter them best based on their natural features. It involves examining the hue, value, and chroma of the coloring in skin, eyes, and hair, and identifying your seasonal color palette (summer, spring, autumn, or winter) and dominant color (deep, light, warm, cool, clear, soft) based on the combination of your features. The results are categorized as seasons to simplify understanding.
However, finding seasonal colors doesn’t mean swearing off entire colors like blue or red. Different shades of blue can have different undertones, and the undertones in the colors you wear may appear more flattering when matched with your natural undertones. It’s about learning to identify the right shade of blue for you, rather than swearing off entire colors.
What is the 60 10 10 10 10 rule?
The 60/10/10/10/10 budget is a financial planning tool recommended by Zenhabits. com. It suggests that 60% of an individual’s gross income should be allocated to regular monthly expenses, 10% for retirement savings, 10 for long-term savings or debt reduction, 10 for short-term savings, and 10 for fun. The author suggests simplifying financial life by having a few accounts and using cash instead of credit cards. However, the formula only recommends 10% for retirement savings, which is a common mantra among financial advisors.
According to the 2014 Retirement Confidence Survey, 60% of American workers have less than $25, 000 saved for retirement, and 36 have less than $1, 000 saved. This suggests that putting aside only 10% of income may not be enough to build a substantial nest egg for those only a decade or two from retirement, with only Social Security as a source of retirement income.
How do I check my color palette?
To determine your complexion, hold a white paper next to your skin and double-check your undertone color by looking at your arm next to the paper. A warm complexion is yellow, green, or golden, while a cool complexion is pink, red, or blue. To pick the best clothing colors based on your eyes, skin, and hair, you need to fall under one of the four seasonal color palette categories: Spring, Summer, Autumn, and Winter.
Your skin’s undertone, natural hair color, and eye color all play a role in determining your seasonal color palette. To look your best all year round, follow these tips and styling techniques to create a flattering color palette.
What is the t50 30 20 rule?
The 50-30-20 budget rule is a financial management tool that suggests that individuals should spend up to 50% of their after-tax income on essential needs and obligations, with the remaining half dedicated to savings and 30 for non-essential items. This rule aims to balance paying for necessities with saving for emergencies and retirement. To follow the rule, individuals can set up automatic deposits, use automatic payments, and track income changes. If spending more than 50 on needs, it may be necessary to cut down on wants or downsize lifestyles, such as downsizing to a smaller home or car, carpooling, or cooking at home.
📹 Battletech Color Schemes Tutorial Clan Wolf Beta Galaxy| Cool Custom Collectibles
If you want even more up to date progress on my progress follow me on Instagram at: @coolcustomcollectibles (Affiliate links to …
Things to consider when composing your color scheme: 1) Contrasting colors make it easier to tell where one part of the model ends and another begins. Important for miniatures, because most of the time people are going to see them from a distance, rather than close up. Blocking out the colors in such a way that the borders are really clear makes it easier to tell at a glance what something is supposed to be. Sometimes, you might not even realize a model has a certain feature until you’re primed and hit it with a zenithal highlight, and suddenly the black and white contrast illuminates it. 2) A color that might seem overwhelming in large amounts may be much more appropriate in smaller amounts. The balance between colors can be a factor. Accenting with one color – a “splash” of a hue – can add complexity to a piece that one or two dominant ones alone might not achieve. If you’re using three color complimentary colors, consider downplaying the presence of one of them. 3) Color saturation can be fiddled with. You might decide that one color should be a bit duller or muted, to make another color stand out. Whereas a whole model with muted or desaturated colors can create a solid mood unto itself (ditto with an all-vibrant color scheme). If you’re looking at a set of colors on the color wheel and think you don’t like one of them, consider adding black or white to the color to dull it down a bit. You might like its inclusion more if it’s not standing out. 4) It’s possible to tint your entire color scheme with one color, to create a unified effect.
“As long as it makes you happy, do what you want” I try and emphasise this to people getting into historicals. If someone is going to have a tizzy fit because the drummer of your 44th foot is actually in the facing colours of the 46th foot, that is their issue. Your models, your paint job, your decision. Engaging someone in polite conversation about their choice of colour scheme is one thing. Telling them that its wrong, simply because its not how you would do it, is another
Just want to point out, historicals can be more relaxed than certain fantasy/sci-fi games, at times. Sure, a british redcoat has a red coat, but the exact shade of red rarely matters (or is dependant on more factors than I’d care to list here). Something similar for an american Sherman tank, and Olive Drab covers a whole lot of colors as is. Meanwhile, a Space Marine from one of the official chapters, must have the exact correct shade of blue/green/red, at least listening to some people. (Although I’ll admit, some of those exist within historicals as well, but that just highlights the problem). And then there is historicals before the large-scale introduction of uniforms, of course… you can almost go wild with your vikings. Blacks, browns and greys are of course given. Greens, reds, blues, yellows, all are possible. Purple… would be rare, but an excellent way to denote your leader.
I usually start with either the box art or book art or whatever but then the most important subsequent step is do the old test model to make sure I can make the colors look good or test out my own crazy changes. That becomes reference for the rest of my squad/army/team and I always have it in front of me while I paint the rest, just so I can keep everything coherent.
Thank you for helping paint my ASOIAF miniatures!! You help me just keep it simple, paint a few at a time, paint few colors & wash & im happy with that & it’s attainable. I watch other YouTube show how they paint (they are very good) but I paint now for me & to the level I’m satisfied. I wanna play the game often not spend all my time painting. Painting miniatures make the game better. Thank you sir for helping me with the part I was stalled on. Grateful
I do three things when picking out a new color scheme. 1- Pick up the color wheel and jot down a few contrasting and complementary color ideas for a given model or models. 2- I try it the proposed color scheme on a cheap plastic army man figure that I have already primered white. (You can get a bag of like 30 of those plastic army men for $1 or so.) And I primer white because I want to see clearly how the colors chosen stand out or blend in with each other. 3- Assuming I like the chosen color scheme, I write it down in a painting journal. Painting journal helps a ton, so I don’t forget what I was doing in between painting sessions and breaks.
I went to a hobby shop recently and saw other people’s armies for the first time. I realized that they weren’t painted perfect, in fact they were very amateur. However, I was inspired by them because even though the quality of the paint job wasn’t good, the passion and love the collector had for their models shown through, and I think that kicks so much ass I immediately started painting my own minis and I love it!
One thing I would say about people not liking a colour they have put on and repainting over it is that sometimes you have got to give it a chance. Most models go through a stage at some point in the process where they look terrible and part of your brain things “Oh god, have I messed this up?” When you then shade and highlight those parts the entire effect changes and you often end up with something great that you had despaired of. New painters quite often lose confidence part way through a model, because they don’t have enough experience to know that the entire feel of the mini will change when you start to paint the lighting onto it. Sometimes it is important to push through to the end and see what the finished product looks like.
I’m curious how many people had a similar experience as me with their hobby journey. I kept hearing “thin your paints” so I did and I got a good feel for how to do that but I was completely ignorant of color theory so I was struggling to make many colors work. I’ve found the better I get at color theory the more painting in thin layers is a joy because your not fighting the colors. Its to the point where I’m excited to paint in the more difficult colors or to try new ways to do skin tones. I’m by no means good at color theory but now I can naturally start to approach contrast and saturation because of my working knowledge of color theory.
I prime plastic spoon and then test my colours out on the spoon’s first to see if I like it I have let the spoon set for 24/36 hours just to make sure a couple times. The worst was looking at painting a darker red weapons casing on Dark Angels as I hate Christmas marines thank god for was it 4th or 5th Ed. with there silver bolter casings. Oh man the argument my friend and I had over the holsters on Space marines should they be leather or hard plastic so it really boiled down to black or brown. He went Brown across the board I went black for rank and file leather for officers.
I love your website!! Thanks to you I got back into the hobby of wargaming and I was almost bingewatching your older content completely overthrowing the 90/10 rule but now that I finally got started I’m fine being mediocre and just having fun, not being that guy and enjoy my new wet palette and painting my new blood bowl models.
A wordy comment regarding Color theory: I think it’s really important, just not when you are starting. Following the boxart means you’re passively learning color theory by feeling how colors mix and interact… That’s the lesson you will ultimately need when you finally decide to make your own color scheme. In one of Atom’s past articles where he interviewed the pros at Adepticon (pachaw) there is a statement from Vince Venturella that resonated a lot: if you don’t know color theory, your models will look bad and you won’t know why. Something along those lines.
Sometimes you have to just say “%$@&$ it!” and do the most outrageous thing possible. I have a Tau army I played back in the day that was plaid. The vehicles and crisis suits (and all the hard armor on the troops) were a red-based tartan, while the stealth suits were a “stealth” plaid based on the Black Watch. Visually distracted my opponents, but they sure remembered the army!
Since I am at moment focusing more on Frostgrave, I am focusing use “natural colours” (like different browns for fur and leather etc), but also, because scene is very white, frost ruins, avoiding too bright colours like red, blue, etc what would draw attention and make others possibly see you before you see them. Also, too much black may be bad. But also, since people in Frost Grave are a) often mercenaries (or possibly from some village or so) they have mismatched outfits: some one bought this from travelling merchant, that other thing was a gift, and that thing was from local crafter…. And then, also have exceptions for all these rules: if some one have bright blue trousers, it is because it worked in their home town, what is completely different place than the frozen graveyard. And more expensive, knightly mercenaries may have bright colours because they may be carelessly proud of their position and achievements, etc. They may have very expensive stuff, while many other may have what ever they happen got with cheap prices. So, have rule for colours, but also exceptions for those rules. Some rogue really like use black cloths, no matter than they are not very good on daytime in snowy scene…(but they are bit more warmer, and still useful at night time).
Something I learned from when I painted RC Cars, is that companies spend lots of money to graphic designers to come up with the perfict color scheme that copying those can work well. Look at product packaging, like the colors of a doritos bag or any other product/store and find one that looks good to you and copy those.
Knowing just a bit of color theory really did help the overall look of my first miniatures. Following a split triad color scheme has always been a solid choice in my opinion. Adding contrasting colors in shadows or washes also adds nice depth/tones, very different from just adding white or black for contrast.
I got an idea for my space marines from an episode of Star Wars: The Clone Wars. I don’t recall the name of the episode, but the clone troops get some new recruits they refer to as “shinies” because their armor was fresh. So I painted them all the same color pallet, however some are really nice and clean, and others are not. Variety and uniformity in one.
I need to stop painting green…. Every army I ever paint seems to be painted green as a majority (except my freeblades… Only one of them is green). I think I have a green problem ^^ Even looking at 3d printing aeldari I’m thinking my non aspect warriors to be Biel-Tan. Which is just more flipping green!
Historical wargaming colors getting fussy is funny to me as someone who’s done historic model making. At least with things like WWII, colors were all over the place, even among the same army and even unit. Field applied paint and camo was pigment mixed with whatever medium they had on hand, old motor oil? Gasoline? Anti-Freeze? Sure, whatever you had and didn’t need, that’s what you used. So the shades would be different. I mean look at all the different shades of US Olive Drab companies make, some are more green, some are brown-ish purple. Weathering, photo references, all these things, even how far away the reference is in the atmosphere, will change how the color looks. If you spend too much time researching colors, you’ll go cross-eyed, until you spend so much time researching colors you realize Close enough is good enough.
I did 4 years of art in High School but was unlucky in that the teacher was an idiot. He introduced us to various art types but never addressed how those types worked. So anything I know about painting figures is still self taught, is that not horrendous. Anyway, my first paint jobs were 1/72 Napoleonics. Then Ed 2 of WH40k, where I copied the box art. I then messed around with Orks who allowed a lot of freedom with their colours. But my true adventure into painting was when I took up Eldar. They have a Tin Bitz uniform for general troops and metallic colours to match the troop type they are. Green for Scorpions, brass for Drakes and so on. What sets the metals off however are the weapons, helmets, flags etc.. are bright matt colours. Tin Bits and swamp brown tie the army together with green for infantry, red for support and blue for specialist. You definitely have to see the colour in your head though.
A bit late to the party here. just watched the article on choosing colour schemes, which i must confess, I have problems with some times. Historical stuff is pretty much covered by the likes of Osprey and Mr Haythornthwaite, but fantasy and sci fi, pulp etc can be a challenge. However, one way i get inspiration, is from any local supermarket, shop, mall etc. The guys that produce packaging for products have probably got a degree or gold medal in product design etc and have a thorough knowledge of colour theory etc. The various packages are designed to be pleasing to the eye…..so…browse the shelves and gain inspiration from Walmart
I use vior’la for my tau, but there is always room for uniqueness! I may paint the pathfinders’ gaiters dark grey, while line infantry wears them black. Red may be applied to the whole helmet of the officers instead of just the antenna. Light grey panels may be chosen at will in the armour. In the 18th century almost each regiment had its unique colour scheme but all looked the same in the end. That’s my point! Lovely vid btw!
Okay Uncle Adam, I’m trying to paint my new Warcaster Neo-Mechanica, from Privateer Press. Its a small group of mins maybe 15 total, I want them to be super militaristic in appearance and a few of my friends say to match them to my 40K tau.. I’m not sure I want to do that but these need to be done by Oct with a 40 hour work well, combined with a full time dad. What is your opinion?
Currently I am making some inquisition forces in case I find a group to play Dark Heresy with, and the idea I had with those is I’ll print myself some classic 3rd edition stormies and paint them up with the striking red undersuits and paint up the armour with Urban T camouflage from the USMC’s Urban Warrior exercise in ’99. The pitch black armour panels bothered me, so I chose to do my own spin on them.
I like gears of war and i like warhammer, so my tempestus scions are enforcers (they look a lot like the COG troopers from gears) and well they are painted like them…. I recommend to base and take references from here and there, other model kits, paintjobs….. articlegames, films, historic things… etc
Great topic. When I decide on a colour scheme, I try to think in a ” three shade mode”, ie: a base colour, the shadow, and the highlight, for each area of a miniature, and sometimes, a fourth colour to get an area to stand out, that much more. I also try to pick colours from the colour wheel, across from each other. A good way, to make things “pop” Another way to add interest to your schemes, is to pick three areas, that will have an opposite colour to your main colour, and they don’t have to be large areas, but should form a triangle, to lead the viewer’s eye, around the miniature. Anyway, another excellent topic that many agonize over. Thanks again!
If you’re anything like me, you have multiple armies for a given game. I pick colors so they contrast well off of each other. For instance, I have an army that’s mostly browns and grays, so the other army is more blue. If your armies are going to share a lot of table time together they should look good together!
Im sitting in front of 6000points of primaris marines… i bought them last year to play them as ultramarines but i decided to go by my own chapter because of the rules (flexibility to play more chapters then just ultramarines). i look for a scheme since 4 weeks and i cant really decide…. :/ i have a scheme with mostly black (silver details) and blue right arm and blue left leg…. but how can u decide for a scheme for whole army… so much money, so much work. if i doesnt like it in the end i wasted really much money :/
One of my main things is that I don’t contemplate on what to do, I just grab a colour that might looks good and then I put brush to model and paint, I’ve changed up colour schemes a couple times and I’ve only found the ones I enjoy through trial and error, so don’t be afraid to paint without a plan, enjoy it, it’s a hobby for fun
Honestly as someone who was never really into art beyond the compulsory lessons at school before getting into the hobby, I think a lot of colour theory really boils down to common sense. I think a lot of people tend to have a natural understanding of what colours tend to look best with each other just from our own view of what colours and combinations we naturally enjoy. A thing I’ve learned that I think helps when coming up with colour schemes is to avoid using pure black and pure white, this helps cut down on areas that look unfinished on a miniature. Instead, only use black for your deepest shadows, and white for your brightest highlights, and instead use off whites and dark greys for areas you want to be white and black. Another thing you can do is mix a small amount of a dominant colour on the model into the white or black, this helps to really unify the colour scheme.
Cool stuff ryan if have any handy tips for someone whom has never used 3D printer in their life and has gotten one i got elegoo mars pro i mainly got it to do car parts 124TH scale wheels over fenders i believe there’s a 3D set up that if u take 360 degree pics of stuff u can turn them into 3D stl printable files is that true. If can help in anything thank u in advance if its to complicated to explain over email i understand iv been perusal vids of putting it togethere so thats wat im at now seen ur resin painting figure article this one pop up as i subbed last week some time but yeah any handy info u think i can use if u want to send me on info my email is in the about section of my website profile and again thank u if u can or cant i thank u in advance, 👍👍Keith