This video tutorial demonstrates how to add decorative wire to stained glass projects using 22G wire and loops at the ends. The wires are then pounded around the nugget at different levels, and the flower and clear glass at the top of the nugget are soldered. Carol Coffin, a skilled seamstress, created these unique stained glass, shell, and wire panels.
To learn this technique, start by cutting off scrap lead and practicing soldering joints along the lead. Stained glass soldering can be broken down into four main procedures: planning the design, cutting the glass, covering the edge of the glass in adhesive copper and gel flux, and soldering the glass.
Delphi instructor Roy Kapp guides viewers through several easy decorative soldering techniques using both large and small soldering iron tips. He starts connecting shells and glass with the wire using jeweller’s needle nose pliers, twisting and turning the wire, soldering to the foil as needed.
To avoid tension in the wire, fully form it before soldering to prevent tension in the wire. Pick up a blob of solder or put some solder on your iron tip and move the iron along the wire, covering the wire with solder.
There are three basic types of solder used in stained glass: copper, silver, and gold. Copper will not stick to glass alone, so each piece of glass must be wrapped in copper foil. Solder can be used for flat projects as well as three-dimensional ones, and troubleshooting is essential to ensure the wires stay put.
📹 HOW TO – Soldering Stained Glass Suncatcher Edges for a Perfect Finish – Edge Beading
You ask, I deliver. This is a real-time edge beading tutorial. It’s a little boring watching someone solder the edges, but real-time is …
Does solder bond to glass?
The soldering process is facilitated by a higher tin-to-lead ratio at lower temperatures. It is necessary to wrap the glass in copper foil in order to prevent adhesion. Solder requires the presence of a flux in order to facilitate a smooth flow and bonding to other metals. It is recommended that solid-core solder be used for stained glasswork, as opposed to acid or rosin core solder.
What is the difference between 60/40 and 50/50 solder for stained glass?
The 40:60 solder is ideal for work with lead cames and copper-foiled work due to its short cooling time and duller results. It can also reduce fall-through when bridging large gaps. The 60:40 solder is best for copper-foiled work due to its long cooling time and smoother beads. The 50:50 solder is a compromise if the 40:60 solder is unavailable, but not as good for copper-foiled work. Eutectic 63:37 solder is suitable for decorative soldering work.
It is essential to use a suitable flux, such as tallow for leaded panels and rosin cored solder. For more information on solder, visit en. wikipedia. org/wiki/Solder or inlandcraft. com/howto/pdf/htsold. pdf. However, it is important to note that these sources promote their own products and other products and suppliers exist.
How to attach stained glass to metal?
To glue glass to metal, clean and prepare surfaces, pre-fit parts to ensure they fit closely, apply a small amount of glue to one surface, press the parts together, and allow the item to fully cure. Clean up after the process. Gluing glass to metal is possible with the right adhesive, considering factors like exposure to outdoor conditions, moisture, extreme temperature changes, vibration or impact resistance, part fit, and whether the adhesive needs to dry clear or be painted or tinted. Different situations may require different products, so it’s essential to choose the right adhesive for your specific needs.
How do I bond metal to glass?
Loctite Epoxy General Purpose is a water-resistant, easy-to-apply epoxy that is effective for gluing glass to metal. To use this epoxy, clean and dry the surfaces, remove the plug, cut the tips of the syringe, and mix the resin and hardener on a disposable surface. Clean and close the syringe, then apply a small amount of the mixed epoxy to both surfaces and press them together for 10 minutes. Wait for the epoxy to set, which can be used for 1 hour and fully cured in 24 hours.
Clean up by removing excess epoxy with acetone and using a sharp blade to remove it. Always work in a well-ventilated area and wear gloves. This process ensures a strong bond between the glass and metal, ensuring a secure and long-lasting repair.
Do you have to use lead solder for stained glass?
Lead-free solder offers numerous benefits in projects like stained glass and giftware, as it is environmentally friendly and can reduce health risks. It is suitable for handling projects like kaleidoscopes, jewelry, and gift boxes. Although the price of lead-free solder alloys is higher than regular solder, it is safer for handling or wearing projects. The lower density of lead-free solder is 14 less dense than 60/40, allowing for more wire in a one-pound spool. Lead-free solder alloys are available in various solid, well-performing variations, making the transition easier.
Does lead free solder work well for stained glass?
Lead-free solder offers numerous benefits in projects like stained glass and giftware, as it is environmentally friendly and can reduce health risks. Handled projects like kaleidoscopes, jewelry, and gift boxes should be made with lead-free solder. Although the price of lead-free solder alloys is higher than regular solder, it is safer for handling or wearing projects. The lower density of lead-free solder is 14 less dense than 60/40, allowing for more wire in a one-pound spool. Despite its higher price, lead-free solder alloys are well-performing and can make the transition easier.
Will solder stick to copper wire?
When soldering copper, place the iron tip at the wire’s intended meeting point and hold it for a few seconds until solder flows. Remove the iron before applying too much heat. Inspect the work, ensuring the joint resembles a small copper dome and is shiny. If not, reapply the iron and add more solder until satisfied. Regularly clean the soldering iron on a wet sponge to keep copper joints clean and free of contaminants.
Does lead-free solder work well for stained glass?
Lead-free solder offers numerous benefits in projects like stained glass and giftware, as it is environmentally friendly and can reduce health risks. Handled projects like kaleidoscopes, jewelry, and gift boxes should be made with lead-free solder. Although the price of lead-free solder alloys is higher than regular solder, it is safer for handling or wearing projects. The lower density of lead-free solder is 14 less dense than 60/40, allowing for more wire in a one-pound spool. Despite its higher price, lead-free solder alloys are well-performing and can make the transition easier.
How to solder wire on stained glass?
Stained glass soldering techniques involve looking ahead of the iron’s tip, moving the panel to get the best angle for running the bead, and holding the iron like a pencil. This technique helps in anticipating and driving the solder, making it easier to run the bead smoothly. Students often find this technique helpful in the Stained Glass Made Perfect course.
To create a smooth seam, flat solder the front side first, filling gaps, then wipe flux off and bead Side 2. This makes running the bead easier as there are no gaps for the solder to get sucked into. Beading Side 2 first helps warm up the soldering and identify problem areas to pay attention to when going back to Side 1.
Soldering tips for smooth seams include adjusting the temperature to suit your needs, which will change depending on the type of seam and the type of soldering. Too much flux can cause problems, so keep the iron tip clean by wiping it frequently with a damp sponge. Check that your iron is maintaining a constant temperature, as weller soldering irons have a reputation for cool spots.
Learning to relax is essential when soldering a stained glass seam. Don’t worry about doing the seam in one pass, as it creates too much pressure. Try making a run of solder over the seam without worrying about smoothness, then go back and make the bead on the second run. Allow the solder to cool down in between, and let go of expectations. Learning to slow down will lead to smoother lines, as glass expands at the edges when heated, making it unlikely to crack the glass.
What kind of wire to use with stained glass?
Tinting copper wire for stained glass adds decorative wire details to your work. To save money, you can make your own tinned wire by stripping plastic from electrical wire and coating it with solder. Tinting wire for stained glass ensures it matches the patina in your project. You can buy tinned wire from an impressive range of options, or make things simple by making things simple. This video shows how to strip plastic from electrical wire and tin it with solder.
How to attach glass to wire?
To create a decorative wire working spiral, start by connecting the shells and glass with wire using jeweller’s needle nose pliers. Twist and turn the wire, soldering to the foil as you go. Ensure the connections are strong enough to support the stained glass and shells. This technique adds detail that can’t be achieved with just stained glass and copper foil alone. For more tutorials, click the links provided.
📹 How to use hobby came pretinned wire and silverware in your stained glass
Hobby came tutorial from Rockfish Studios, this is a video for fellow glass enthusiasts. I started working with hobby came about a …
Your soldering technique is absolutely flawless. Your Grandfathers tutoring and your obvious reception to his technique results copper foil work that is beautiful!! I’ve worked with stained glass, foil and lead, over 40 years and very, very few individuals possess your soldering ability. I’d love to see some of your larger panel work displayed on You Tube too.
90 percent sure that was black magic, thank you so much for making the article. two quick questions. when you decided that you needed more flux what signs indicated that you needed flux? when i try to build up my bead it will spill over the sides how does yours not spill over? I do have my iron at 360°c
I gifted my granddaughter with a 12 hour stained glass class for her 14th birthday and took the class with her. She enjoyed herself but I’m hooked! My problem is that I am a perfectionist and beading has been my downfall. I tend to go back over and over the solder until my foil is melted. I suspected this would happen so I wisely used practice pieces. I was so excited after I watched your article and wanted to tell you that of the dozens of stained glass artists I’ve watched your beading and the instruction is by far the best. I’m going to heat up my iron (same as yours) and do some edge beading.
This is another fab tutorial. I’ve started finishing with black patina now and, after perusal one of your previous articles where you say to use wire wool, wow – what a revelation! My patina looks so good now, it really has made such a difference. Now I know how, I’ll start beading my edges properly too 👍 Thank you so much.
Once again, I wished I would have seen this article at the very beginning of my journeys, as it drove me crazy trying to figure out how finished pieces achieved this look!! I didn’t even think to set the temperature down on my soldering iron! A couple questions: For edge bead soldering like this, does gel flux work better than liquid flux? I find myself reapplying liquid flux sometimes as it seems like it evaporated, or dried up as I’m moving along. Also, I have a whole spool of solder that looks like it has oxidized or whatever as it’s been sitting my my garage and this summer has been a HOT one. Is it still fine to use? Do I need to do anything to it to make it usable, or do I just need to purchase another spool and do a better job of storing my soldering supplies? Thanks so much! Honestly you are one of the best stained glass artists I have come across so far on youtube. If you created classes, I would 100% completely sign up!!
Thank you for providing us with this article… I have been doing panels for the last few years and now attempting to do Sun Catchers or free form projects… Your technique and soldering is excellent and is exactly what I was needing to move forward! Thank you I appreciate your style – it was as if you were right here showing me! 🌺
I’ve just recently come across your articles and they’re very helpful, thank you! I too think your soldering is excellent, and I’ve noticed that you never seem to have black “bits” appearing in your solder lines; would know by any chance why this might be happening to me? Perhaps I’m using too much flux? Thank you again!
I’ve been using the same technique and temp for all of my edge beading, but I’m still having issues. My solder runs even if I’m beading a flat level line. It’ll flaten out to the sides and often run off the front or back. Does type of flux make a difference? Mine is liquid, not gel. Its the only difference i can think of besides just needing more practice.
Great article. I’m a beginner and tried to do some edge beading. It went ok-ish, I need to keep practicing. Whenever I came to one of my seams, the edge beading affected the look of my piece’s beading on the front and back. I’m having trouble making it look nice where solder lines meet. Do you have any tips for where the edge beading meets the piece’s solder lines? Or any tips in general about making solder lines connect smoothly?
I think your idea of repurposing a silver handle on an old spoon is really phenomenal to say the least. What a way to bring back those lovely forged items into a pure piece of art. I am so impressed until I watched you make such lovely dragon fly lines today. Thank you so much for sharing and enlightening the stained glass hobbiest, like me, with truly inspirational pieces. 🙂
Thank you for all the good info specially to foil the spoon and on the back of the spoon adding wire between wings will help to fill up the gap with solder. I learned to use hobby cane but my problem is, I don’t get a nice shiny silver finish, or it doesn’t take the black patina well. Could you share how do you do it please? Thank you.
Well said, easy to listen to, very informative. As I watched it humored me as you’d explain things I was wondering…the ceiling tile workspace and what the green block thing was you mentioned. So glad I found you, feels like we should be having a visit next. Thanks from Aylesbury, Saskatchewan. Canada