The importance of choosing the right wardrobe type depends on your space, needs, and budget. Consider standard dimensions and customize them to fit your room and storage requirements. Select materials that balance durability, aesthetics, and maintenance needs. Implement these tips to create a stylish and functional storage solution for your bedroom. Choose from finishes like laminate, membrane, UV, acrylic, aluminium with glass, lacquer, or mirror. Laminate and membrane are cost-effective.
To create a well-organized and luxurious wardrobe, consider the following steps: choose your desired type of wardrobe design, evaluate your need for storage space, and choose a material for your wardrobe. Choose between sliding and hinged doors, keeping the maximum width of a single hinged door on. Choose wardrobes that blend in with your bedroom interiors, considering colors, finishes, materials, and details.
Steps for creating an efficient wardrobe include choosing frames, doors, knobs, handles, interior organization, lighting, and lighting. Incorporate drawers, hanging rails, and avoid wasting the lower area of your wardrobe. Embrace inserts and use smart storage solutions.
In summary, choosing the right wardrobe type based on space, needs, and budget is crucial for maximizing space and aesthetics. Consider the following tips and strategies for creating a well-organized wardrobe: incorporate drawers, hang rails, avoid wasting the lower area, embrace inserts, and use smart storage solutions.
📹 DIY Fitted Wardrobe Build with Basic Tools – Video #1 : PLINTH & CARCASSES
In today’s video I will be showing you how to build your own DIY fitted wardrobe with basic tools – starting with planning, and …
How do I create my own wardrobe style?
The article provides seven tips for developing a great sense of personal style, emphasizing the importance of knowing colors, coordinating them, investing in timeless neutral pieces, being objective about body shape, taking creative risks, combining outfits with accessories, and becoming attuned to personal preferences. It also mentions the style of famous women like Audrey Hepburn, Carolyn Bessette Kennedy, and Coco Chanel, who emphasized personal interpretation of their style through selecting colors, cuts, fabrics, and shapes that celebrated their best features and spirit.
How do you arrange a simple wardrobe?
This guide provides a step-by-step guide on organizing your closet. It outlines six steps: 1) Pull everything out of the closet, 2) Create toss, keep, and donate piles, 3) Sort everything by category, 4) Count and measure everything, 5) Set your closet up, 6) Put everything back, 7) Make the space work for you, and 8) Label items. The guide emphasizes that organizing your closet not only looks good but also saves you time and money by preventing unnecessary purchases. By following the guide, you can achieve a stress-free, streamlined space in no time.
Which direction is not good for a wardrobe?
The Vastu Shastra, an ancient Indian architecture concept, suggests that placing a wardrobe in the southwest or west direction in a bedroom can bring stability and prosperity. Avoid placing it in the northeast corner, as this could disrupt the flow of positive energy. Keep the space around the wardrobe clutter-free to allow energy to circulate freely. The placement of the wardrobe in the bedroom affects the aesthetics and vibe of the space, and following these principles can ensure a serene environment.
Key takeaways include arranging the wardrobe neatly, avoiding overcrowding, choosing soothing colors like white, beige, or light pastels, placing mirrors thoughtfully, and ensuring smooth and unobstructed wardrobe doors to allow for a free flow of opportunities and positive energy. By following these Vastu principles, you can create a harmonious and peaceful bedroom environment.
Should the bed face the wardrobe?
The orientation of the bed in relation to the closet, contingent on the specific configuration of the room, will not have a detrimental impact on the room’s feng shui, provided that the closet doors do not encroach upon the bed when opened and the interior space is not congested.
How to design the inside of your wardrobe?
Contemporary fitted wardrobes with sliding doors are increasingly popular among homeowners due to their numerous benefits over freestanding wardrobes. To create the perfect wardrobe interior, consider the items you plan to store in the space, break down the item categories needing storage, consider all available storage solutions, and consider potential future needs. Built-in wardrobes are generally larger than freestanding alternatives, but it is crucial to use this extra space effectively. Working with an experienced company can help tailor the interior of the wardrobe as much as the exterior.
When planning the interior of a wardrobe, consider what you plan to store in the space. Many choose to store clothes, shoes, and bags in their contemporary fitted wardrobes. By breaking down the item categories needing storage, considering all available storage solutions, and considering potential future needs, you can create a wardrobe that meets all your needs.
How do you design a wardrobe layout?
To maximize storage space in a fitted wardrobe, position short hanging clothes at one end and longer hanging clothes at the other, creating ample space for storage. Consider adding a chest of drawers, shoe rack, or small shelves for shoes. Top shelves can be placed behind cupboard doors for items like suitcases, bedding, and season clothes. Illuminate the wardrobe with more light to make it appear larger and easier to find items. Consider adding an LED hanging rail that is motion-activated to prevent clothes from being lost in the dark. These tips can help create a more organized and functional wardrobe.
How do I organize my bedroom wardrobe?
Organizing clothing can be challenging due to the unique needs of different types of clothes. To keep your wardrobe neat and accessible, use various clothing organization ideas for garments and accessories.
To keep clothes organized, it’s essential not to cram too many pieces into a tight space, as this can lead to wrinkles and make it difficult to see the full range of clothing options. Open storage solutions, such as hanging clothes or organizing garments on shelves, are best for what you wear each day, such as pants, sweaters, blouses, and dresses. Keep your full wardrobe easily visible, and avoid wearing the same pieces over and over again.
Organizing clothing involves editing your wardrobe first. Before organizing, create breathing room in closets and drawers by donating or donating apparel that hasn’t been worn in a year, no longer fits, is too damaged to repair, or is never coming back into style. Pulling all clothes out of your closet and trying everything on can help gauge if you’ll get good wear out of an item and discover new favorite pieces.
In summary, organizing clothing involves a variety of strategies to keep your wardrobe tidy and ready to wear. By focusing on organizing garments and accessories, you can create a more organized and functional space in your closet.
Where should a wardrobe be placed in a bedroom?
Vastu Shastra suggests that placing a wardrobe in the southwest or west direction in a bedroom can bring stability and prosperity. This is because the direction is associated with the elements of earth and air, which are believed to contribute to a sense of grounding and well-being. Choosing soothing colors like white, beige, or light pastels can create a harmonious atmosphere and promote relaxation. Mirrors should be placed thoughtfully, as they can amplify energy when used correctly.
Ensure that wardrobe doors open smoothly and without obstruction to allow for a free flow of opportunities and positive energy. In essence, the placement of a wardrobe in the right direction can bring stability and prosperity to your household.
How do I choose a bedroom wardrobe?
To create a harmonious bedroom interior design, consider the style of your wardrobe, including colors, finishes, materials, and door details. For ornate furniture, choose an embellished wardrobe with ornate doors, while for a clean look, opt for a chic walk-in/open wardrobe with no or translucent doors. Match the finishes and color scheme of your wardrobe with the existing color palette for visual harmony.
For a trendy door style, opt for swing or sliding doors, which add a statement to your bedroom’s aesthetics and save space. Push-to-open doors are also a chic design option. Choosing a new wardrobe doesn’t have to be expensive; there are options available that suit every budget. Remember these factors before making your choice, so you choose the best one that suits your needs the most.
How do you organize a bedroom layout?
When designing a bedroom layout, ensure a minimum of two feet of space for walking around the bed, especially if sharing the space with your partner. Avoid blocking natural pathways, especially to the bathroom, and make it easy to walk from place to place. Feng Shui principles can be applied to create a peaceful and happy bedroom, including decluttering, placing the bed diagonally to the door, avoiding mirrors within sightline, using a wooden headboard, and choosing soft neutral colors. These practical advice can help create a peaceful and happy bedroom for a restful night’s sleep.
How do you divide the inside of your wardrobe?
The article suggests keeping everyday clothes in the upper part of a wardrobe, while less frequently used items are in the lower part. For example, a wardrobe with three compartments (6 hinged doors or 3 sliding doors) with a height of 255-260 cm can be effectively configured. A basic setup includes one central shelf and two clothes rails for each internal space. The first and third columns have a lower storage surface, two open compartments for hanging medium-sized clothes, and two shelves for tops, t-shirts, and jumpers.
The second central column adds a set of drawers, dividing the wardrobe into four drawers for underwear, scarves, cravats, swimming costumes, ties, belts, boxes, knitwear, t-shirts, an open section for hanging longer clothes, and an upper storage surface for boxes, linen, bags, and luggage. This configuration ensures efficient organization and organization of clothes and accessories.
📹 Latest Wardrobe Designs for Bedroom | 10 Best Wardrobe Design Ideas | Sliding Wardrobe Design
The most important thing to consider while choosing or designing a wardrobe for any bedroom is the materials (MDF, HDF, …
Great article again, Charlie. Regarding your plinth levelling, in my other day job as a handyman, I needed a large wooden workshop as soon as I moved house and, so I had the minimum amount of downtime, had the company who made the workshop erect it. As I had a very uneven concrete garage base for it to sit on, I also took the additional plinth option and watched them put it up in double quick time using offcuts of treated timber to act as feet after they had packed the plinth base level. They simply screwed the offcuts at right angles to the plinth framework touching the concrete base at regular intervals – but not as high as the top of the plinth – thus keeping it level and also allowing any standing water to drain away, genius idea! I’ve since adapted it when fitting a long run of kitchen units to an uneven floor. Incidentally, I remember seeing your circular saw tip about leaving only half a tooth protruding a while ago on one of your other articles and it reminded me that this was a lesson that took me about 10 years to learn!
This was the first article of yours that I saw and I’m very impressed with your presentation. I really like how you lay out your project and the materials you need at the beginning. You show what you’ve done and explain why you’ve made those decisions. I’m looking forward to seeing the future articles in this series and also going back to see what else you have done. Thanks for making such wonderful articles.
I bought a table saw for £65, (brand new off gumtree) for the DIY’er and it saved me a lot of time. However its not great for large sheets and had to go back to the circular saw and mdf stripe for a guide. Wish i had the cash to buy the track and the saw to go with it. Just finished a large 2 door and 2 draw wardrobe, desk with cabinet and 2 bedside tables. All made from 18mm MDF, decent hinges and runners. It cost about the same in the end as buying it flat packed but, i know its made better, stronger, can easily be repainted and repaired. Took a long time though. Charlie, love the article’s
Hi Charlie, I’ve been loving your website since I started my DIY journey last November. My first project, a Moroccan style patio seating arrangement, went well thanks to many of your tips. I have been planning to build a fitted wardrobe as my next big project and so this article has come at a perfect time for me. I look forward to seeing how you progress on this project as I rip more IP from you ;-). Many thanks for all you share! Jeff
The best thing about DIY projects is that no one (even the best professional) does not care about your project the way that you do. For a professional, it’s just another job but for a DIYer the project is what she/he has designed having in mind all the features that might be needed and caring about all the aspects which are important for you and a professional might not be even aware of them. When you have great skills like Charlie, your project will end up much more better than any professionally made project.
Really appreciated this article. I’m a little late to the party but CutList Optimizer is good from an ease of use perspective but it doesn’t allow you to enter cost of materials and calculate what sheets to use to minimise project cost. CutList Plus FX allows you to do that and is the best I’ve seen so far. I’m using the demo version right now which is really powerful and seems to give me all of the features but will limit the pieces I can specify for the job.
Nice. I have a job like this coming up soon, hopefully the floor is less of a headache, it’s in a new build property Nd they want to use melamine faced mdf for a grey wood effect finish. The information about the redwood plinth to spread the weight is great.so thanks for that. I use max cut v2 for my cutting list it’s free and once you get around the layout it’s pretty simple to use, you can even set it to use grain direction
Hi Charlie. No doubt you have said in another article, but where did you get the track for your saw. The only ones I see are quite short and I want to be able to cut up to 2.4 mt. They seem expensive. P.S. we previously discussed a way to finish a not 100% perfect scribe on kitchen units, I went with silicon that turned out to be a great match in colour. It all went very well and looks fantastic. I’ll see if I’m still saying that if I ever change the paint colour on the walls.
Excellent Charlie. I’m about to start on some storage cupboards for our utility room and this gives me a lot of ideas. Been perusal a lot of Peter Millard 10 minute workshop articles and he usually dowels his carcasses so good to see that just screwing is as effective. MR MDF seems a lot harder to buy, none of the DIY sheds stock it so I’ll checkout the link you provided as I find builders merchants can be expensive. One question about the plinth, you’ve made the cupboards out of MR MDF but the plinths are just untreated softwood, is this not just asking for rot in the plinths? I’m concerned I will get water spilled and over time they’ll rot so I may well paint mine or use MR materials for the plinth as well
Please could you rethink the way that you operate your planer. I cringe every time I see you doing this with your hand so close to the blade. I’ve had to go into work the following morning on two separate occasions after injuries with planers and qualified tradesmen. It makes a mess of hands and your working area. If you need to plane vertically (i.e. planning the bottom of a door etc) then your body needs to be on the top side of the material being removed and with both hands on the plane to give stability and control and helping to keep the plane square to the material. Please don’t see this as criticism but as friendly advice.
Charlie I love your articles but is there any chance you can do a tutorial to show how to work out how many sheets of MDF (for example) are required for a particular project like this one……. I think you have a method of marking out in 2D how much material is required. I first saw that on your daughter’s bedroom wardrobe build – I believe you used graph paper or similar. Many thanks in anticipation…..
Mould is definitely something to be wary of if you have furniture up against an outside wall. An Ikea chest of drawers bought only last year went terribly mouldy this winter, only the hardboard backer of course but it was green and furry! Luckily I spotted it before any permanent damage was done and have fixed it. If I was building something like this large wardrobe the extra few hours to paint the side and back with a mould resistant paint would really be worth it I think.
Hi Charlie, really looking forward to this series. Have you thought about using Mitre Fast to glue the stiles & rails? Saves all the hassle of hammering nails & then filling afterwards. Used your method after perusal your original wardrobe build & then used the Mitre Fast method for a second wardrobe, much easier & quicker.
Excellent article, Charlie! Quite inspirational to do such a large job. Again, I think your humility on things like the accidental cuts in your work table make you far more relatable. Great work! Thank you very much! PS: I do wish it was easier to find good quality Plywood at decent prices. I feel like it’s too much trial and error for all of us weekend DIYers!
When you plan your cuts on a MDF/plywood sheet, how do you account for cut width (kerf?)? If your component is meant to be 1m (from the factory edge), do you measure 1m+half of the kerf? And for the subsequent cut — let’s say another 1m — do you mark a 1003mm line further down (I’m assuming a 3mm kerf here)? Thank you!
as a joiner I’ve used MDF, glue and coarse on many occasions, and they’re more than strong enough. You can get exterior tite ironmongery screws from screwfix, which are very cheap but hold amazingly in MDF. Also if you see how kitchens are constructed, this built in cabinet is no different, and it’s not like anyone’s going to be swinging from it so no need to over engineer it. Great article
Love it! Once again the wife has demanded that I start the next project. Once again I start collecting measurements and beginning the planning phase and once again I end up straight on your website!! She never used to trust me when I started out but now because of people like you she has rooms she can show off to her friends and her list of my jobs keeps growing!
Hi Charlie, I have been looking at doing something very similar in our brand new house, so this is really interesting and well timed. Love the way you show your mistakes because we all learn from not only those, but our own as well. Always find your articles interesting and informative, so as always well done.
Wow what a great series we are in for, better than what’s on the telly! I’m a great fan of track saws and your temporary workshop setup is a stroke of genius. Like you I’ve constructed carcasses without the like of a Domino, the only real regret is that I should have made that sort of investment earlier, before the kids left home, it would have costed in by now. Using the separate plinth method gives you so much control. I do construct my doors differently now, from a single sheet material cutting out where the inset panels will be with the track saw. Think Jones interiors (Welsh based joiner who does amazing work) has a good vid on that. However I appreciate your whole ethos of using none specialist tools as for many like me that’s all we have. Looking forward to the next. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Hi Charlie,,, you got the hardest bit over with now the planning of it,,, Having the Idea of it and putting it into practice, will have taken the longest time,,, Don’t be so hard on yourself,,, anyone who watches this website Knows you do a great job. Well Don,,, looking forward to the next episodes.
Just made a 3.5m wide wall to ceiling wardrobe myself out of 18mm MDF. Save yourself a world of bother and get your local timber yard to make all the cuts with professional cutting equipment which will be more accurate. Still need to seal the ends with filler and base coat etc paint but then it becomes much like a flat pack assembly.
In situation where you have uneven plane, it alway better to set frame plum as it will guide you further, fitting square build into uneven frame is very challenging especially as you have tall hinged doors in your design. I would masquerade unevenness, at kick plate level, but would deep it down for 2-3 inches so your cabinets gets floating effect over the floor, also casting shadow that would eat uneven height between floor and edge of your cabinets. Beside that, deep in kick plates more ergonomic as it prevent kicking your toes each time you approach it or diving deep to pick something from back of the shelf.
Charlie perusal these article series was like deja vu for me. Your last wardrobe build was the inspiration for me to build a desk for my son’s room and then a run of wardrobes for our own room, which I finished only recently. Had the same issues with an uneven floor and sloping ceiling but very satisfying in the end. Fully agree how you learn from the mistakes you make as you go along and would have loved to have used more birch ply but for the cost. Great work mate and thanks for sharing and helping others like me.
Had the same issues of sloping uneven floor and ceiling in my bedroom in Victorian property. For the floor I screwed sloping 3×2 timbers on top of the joists to level to required height in one half the room, and broadfix and timber shim packed the other half where height difference was one inch or less. For the ceiling I sistered metal c studs to the joist sides using a laser level after finding the lowest point and using that as my new height. Nightmare and a pain but really worth the effort in situations like these where you don’t have to scribe and the final finish looks much better and neater when everything is nice and levelled!
I really like your articles as you speak in layman’s terms and explain everything really well. It’s also good that you use the cheaper range of tools that most people could afford if they are careful. I started to watch a lot of people that started to use festool and high end market products which put me off perusal them as I find the tools extremely expensive. Keep up the articles they are very interesting and informative cheers Charlie.
If you needed a hand with CAD design then you should just reach out. I don’t subscribe to your website but I applaud your DIY efforts. It could also be said that a DIY demonstration for the common man is more practical than getting someone to assist you with CAD drawings and cutting lists. I’m a qualified Craftsman and a few years ago stepped up into a CAD design/estimation position. your handling of the tools you’re using is a little sketchy but not too bad, I would tell off an apprentice for using a power planer like you are but someone who’s been using them for years would be a different story. you should also have used a prefinished surface, I can guess you’re going to hand paint/spray the finished product but thats not how we do it in the industry. Best of luck to you. reach out in future articles if you need some CAD assistance. I’m all for making things easier with technology. Cheers
Nice project .. however some comments/questions, not to bash things but just some things I would have done different. – 6.42: Jig Saws and inaccurate cuts _ Most of the time people are pushing too hard or try to correct when the drift off the linen, DON’T DO THAT. Take an extra, straight, wooden rail and use it as a guidance, problem solved, like you did an 10:04 . – Why did you not remove the baseboard at the back side of the wardrobe so it would be closer to the wall (except the area of the chimney) and you could add some cross bars in the wardrobe to secure it to the wall – Around 4:15 you are mentioning that the ceiling is not level, but looking at it, it is quite new, so why didn’t you or the ones who made it, level it, assuming there is some hollow space with isolation above it. – Anyhow, it looks fine, looking forward to the next article. Carry on ….
Excellent article, thanks Charlie. Will do a wardrobe build for our room, but have just fitted two mirrored wardrobe doors to an old recessed cupboard in my daughters room. Each door has 4 concealed hinges, but even after adjustments, one door is sloping upwards, and one downwards at the top. Any ideas for a solution?
Great article Charlie, really enjoyed. Just a bit of info for the materials, B&Q is around 50p per sheet cheaper for the standard 18mm MDF than the website you used for your materials. On top of this most stores provide a cutting service as well but will deliver free of charge for that amount also. And of course anyone with a tradepoint card will receive 5-10% off the total so looking at a serious saving for that amount of wood.
Charlie, loving this build series already. I am nearly finished the house renovation works in my house and I can hopefully focus on projects that I would like to work on and one of them is wardrobe build either side of a chimney breast so this is a great series for me. I also love the wheel for sheet goods, need to check that article out.
Great vid and great project. Haven’t seen the doors made that way before, makes complete sense and must be doddle compared to the traditional way. I’m surprised you didn’t hook up a shop vac to the track saw!! I thought you had one of the Titan ones, that’d be ideal. I’ve got a guild GWD30 with a power take off so it starts when you start the tool. It’s probably one of the best things I’ve bought since I started DIY-ing, especially for £50-£60!! If you use a proper plunge saw the dust extraction is good enough to cut material indoors and not worry.
Just completed a built in corner wardrobe adapting the techniques in this article. The depth you go into is so helpful, thank you! The main changes I made were to route small websites for the LEDs and then put some trim in front of them to stop the glare. I couldn’t be bothered to make the angled router bit you created. I also made the doors overlayed, so the LED sensors were mounted inside the frame. Thank you and keep it up!!
Hi Charlie, quick question on using single thicknesses of 18mm ply between spaces rather than full carcasses. I’m planning to make use of a 1.2m wide recess in our modern house to build my wife a double wardrobe with internal drawers and single narrow dress hanging space next to it, so 3 doors wide. As walls either side are straight & I hate painting new MDF/sheet material I am thinking of using the walls either side and only having to create new structure between the double & single doors, rather than build separate carcasses like you did. Also I am planning to use high quality strong plywood for this and the tops and only use a single thickness so all frames would be just 18mm wide, not 36. As plywood is stronger I wondered if this is sufficient or if Is there any reason you can think of why this could be an issue? E.g. will there be sufficient clearance for the doors to open ok? Thanks a lot for the great articles & clear speech.
Just curious, I have seen where you talk about adjusting the height of your plinth for an uneven floor (and seeing there is brickwork coming into the job space in your article) but what about not using a plinth at all and sitting the units flat on the carpet (which is what I want to do) or floor as you are loosing space that could be half a draw or other space above the unit?? Also, why not use white Melamine Particleboard which reduces the need for painting and they already have holes drilled for shelving and draws etc?? If you have to reduce the height of the carcases by 100mm why did you put them together and put them in place??
I am busy with a similar build, tried out plastic legs and found them really great to be honest. Quick to install although flipping 2m boxes to get to underneath is not super fun. A third of the cost of a pine plinth even with 6 legs per box. I can move the cabinets around if I am careful. I stood inside the cabinets and they are plenty strong. Leveling was not difficult, even though the house is 70 years old the floors are almost perfectly level.
Hello, Thanks for such an amazing articles. As an artist I have various types of canvas frames. This time I have a 18 diameter round hardwood canvas. The entire canvas is wood back so the canvas is quiet heavy. Can you please share how and which screw I should use to hand on wall (cement wall) Thank you so much in advance
Charlie, great series and commentary. You mentioned condensation and mould at some point but did you say you would insulate behind the carcasses? I have ikea pax built ins on an external wall albeit on insulated plasterboard but am seeing some mould and am wondering what the best long term solution would be. Have watched your articles on mould and damp too but was hoping for wardrobe advice
Hi Charlie. This is so what I need for my proposed project. Thank you so much for your time and expertise shared. Can you answer one question though? Why didn’t you opt for removing the skirting boards behind the plinth so everything could run flush against the walls? Or is this to do with the damp issue you mentioned?
Charlie, great start to the build and good to have the errors left in for everyone to learn from. I would suggest you look at making a cyclone for your hoover and then you won’t have issues with dust collection. You can make one for very little, just look on YouTube and you will find plenty of examples. Ultimate Handyman’s website has some good articles on his. Also you won’t clog up your hoover.
Hi, i really like this series of articles on this subject but can I ask you on a some kind of related topic please,,,, Bookcases with adjustable shelves ? Here goes hope I do not confuse you Charlie. Would you use MR MDF for making some of the shelves adjustable? I keep thinking the holes would give way to the pins which the shelves eventually rest on, from the md mdf breaking down. Or do you think this mr mdf product is stronger than I give credit for? bearing in mind books are quite heavy (ps I would use around 24mm thick shelving. ( question is more about those 5mm holes ) of course add anything you desire. Chris and many thanks in advance
Thanks for the articles Charlie. Your leaf blower caught my attention. I had a cheap shop vac in my collection and recently sourced a third party hose set along with an array of adapters which fit all my saws and Sanders, as well as Henry vacuum cleaner. To say it had transformed my workspace is the biggest understatement. I can now work in the house sawing or sanding with minimal mess, and the system was relatively inexpensive. Let’s say the vacuum might have been titan from Screwfix and the universal accessories might have been from central technology systems. I really wanted to improve the welfare in my working area and this has been exactly the right formula to do so. That leaf blower Charlie 😬
For a free cutting list tool, you could try cutlistoptimizer.com/. It is online based and allows you multiple options, like setting the grain of the wood, the size of the source sheets as well as downloading your cutlist after the calculation is completed in a csv format. Super helpful. Off course, there is a paid for version too if you want to start saving your projects online. but so far the free version works just fine for me.
Looks like a good start 👍 I finished my build a couple of weeks ago and it looks great. I used the same plinth and carcass technique but only used normal MDF…. it is fine at the moment but in hindsight maybe moisture resistant would have been better, but it is on an internal wall and I have left vent holes in the side for airflow. Fingers crossed that it’ll stand the test of time! I also bought a custom made to measure mirror for the middle door which makes the room look bigger. Your previous articles gave me inspiration and ideas, so I thank you! Looking forward to following your latest build…. good luck 👍