Building an outdoor fireplace is a great way to enhance your backyard and create a space for relaxation. This guide provides step-by-step instructions and important considerations for each stage of masonry fireplace construction, ensuring a long and enjoyable experience. The process starts with excavating and pouring the concrete, followed by mixing it in a wheelbarrow and placing an eight-inch concrete block on top.
Building an outdoor fireplace doesn’t have to be difficult or expensive, as it can be done using a pre-built kit with step-by-step instructions. The only requirement is a galvanized pipe for the chimney flue, which must be at least 15 inches in diameter to draw smoke upward.
To build the fireplace, determine the location, size, site, and firebrick. Lay the foundation block, build the firebox, smoke chamber, chimney, cap, and finishing touches. Use 3 parts sand, 1 part fireclay, and 1 part Portland cement for fireclay, which is cheaper than premixed fire-resistant mortar products.
Build the base of your outdoor fireplace using pressure-treated lumber. Measure the dimensions of your pad form and use the pressure-treated lumber to build the base. This free DIY project is perfect for those who want to enjoy their backyard at night, even in cold weather.
📹 The Basics of Building an Outside Masonry Fireplace (Part 1)
How efficient is a masonry fireplace?
A fireplace insert can significantly improve heating efficiency by retaining most of the heat generated by a traditional masonry fireplace. These self-contained heating appliances, which fit directly inside the fireplace opening, use one-third of the fuel and produce 80 to 90 percent of the heat. This eco-friendly method also reduces smoke, soot, and creosote, making it a more efficient and cost-effective option for home heating.
How deep should a footing be for a fireplace?
In accordance with the SPS 321 Construction Standards, the footings for chimneys or fireplaces are required to extend a minimum of 4 inches on each side, with a minimum depth of 12 inches nominal. This guarantees the safety and stability of the floor in order to accommodate the fire.
What is the best base for an outdoor fireplace?
A reinforced concrete slab is the ideal base for an outdoor fireplace, designed and built based on soil type, freeze/thaw conditions, and the weight of the fireplace. Custom built outdoor fireplaces are heavier and require a thicker slab. A new concrete base slab should be 6 inches larger than the fireplace on the rear and sides and at least 24 inches larger in the front. If installing a fireplace on an existing patio, have the surface’s integrity assessed by a professional. Consult a landscape designer, experienced masonry contractor, or prefab fireplace manufacturer for exact specifications.
The firebox, the portion of the fireplace that houses the fire, can be stainless steel or custom built. Firebox sizes range from 30″ to 50″ across and should be lined with fire brick for safety reasons. Choose from various firebrick patterns and colors.
Chimney or vents are essential for a wood-burning fireplace, as a gas-fired fireplace only needs exhaust vents. If space is limited, a gas-fired fireplace is the best option. A chimney must be two feet higher than any structure within 10 feet of the chimney. Vent-free gas fireplaces are a common option outdoors.
How deep should a masonry fireplace be?
A concrete or masonry fireplace must have a depth of 20 inches (508 mm) and a throat of 8 inches (203 mm) above the fireplace opening, in accordance with the relevant building regulations.
Do you need footings for an outdoor fireplace?
Excavate and pour footings for the fireplace. Place rebar at intervals of 1-2 feet to increase strength, then pour 8″ thick concrete. Consult local building codes for the appropriate depth. Place the footing on a rock outcrop for stability.
After the concrete footing has cured for 24 hours or more, build a level base for the firebox. Use 4″ solid block for this purpose. Build the firebox to the desired size using firebrick and refractory cement. Keep all surfaces level, plumb, and square for a proper appearance.
What is the foundation for a masonry chimney?
Masonry fireplaces and chimneys are heavy, requiring extra reinforcing under house foundations to prevent breaking or sagging. Foundations under a chimney are typically 12-24 inches thick, with the pad connected to two- to four-grade beams. Interior fireplaces, which do not touch an exterior wall, tend to settle by going straight down, creating a circular depression with the fireplace at the center.
To lift these fireplaces, two to six pilings are required, depending on the size of the fireplace, the thickness of the pad under the fireplace, and the number of beams connected to the pad under a fireplace.
When lifting a fireplace, it is crucial to lift it evenly to avoid tilting the chimney. A small amount of tilt at ground level can become a significant amount at the top of the chimney. The real problem comes when the chimney goes through the roof, compressing and pulling it, which can lead to roof leaks. Flashing may sometimes prevent leaks, but it is not always effective.
What kind of foundation do you need for an outdoor brick fireplace?
Building on concrete requires standard best practices, including a 4″-8″ crushed aggregate base, steel reinforcement, and building according to local codes. A minimum 4″ thick reinforced concrete pad is recommended. If building on a pre-existing concrete pad, form or cut expansion joints around the fireplace to prevent cracking. Expansion joints can be hidden if desired. Lay out the first course of blocks, mark them with a permanent marker, and remove the blocks.
Use a concrete saw to cut along the lines outlining where the blocks will go. When repositioning the first course, the blocks should hide the expansion joints. This creates a separate pad for the fireplace, moving independently of the main slab during movement or settling. This minimizes or eliminates cracking due to the constant weight of the fireplace. Gather tools, including a Dead Blow Hammer, Hammer, Caulk Gun, 4 Foot Level, Torpedo Level, Square (Big Ass if possible), and 2 Ladders (6 Ft Min).
How do you build an outdoor fireplace?
Building an outdoor fireplace is a great way to enhance your backyard and create a gathering spot for family and visitors. It offers more of a living space ambiance, can double as a privacy wall, and can take up less space than a firepit setting. Outdoor fireplaces are less smokey than firepits and are better protected from wind and wind changes.
To build an outdoor brick fireplace, you need to locate the fireplace, clear and level the area for the pad, build the fireplace pad form, pour the fireplace pad concrete, allow the concrete to cure, lay the fireplace’s wood box, create the lining, and lay the hearth blocks. The basic materials for building an outdoor brick fireplace include cinder blocks for the structure and veneer stone for its aesthetic envelope. By following these steps, you can create a beautiful outdoor fireplace that not only enhances your outdoor space but also brings people together.
Do outdoor fireplaces need fire bricks?
This blog post provides a step-by-step guide on installing firebrick in an outdoor stone fireplace. As autumn approaches, many people are excited about the warmth of a campfire, especially during the longer nights and frosty nights. The article aims to help those who haven’t installed a fireplace yet, explaining the basic process of constructing one. The post emphasizes the importance of firebrick in creating a cozy and inviting outdoor space.
What are the footings for a masonry fireplace?
Masonry fireplaces and chimneys necessitate the construction of footings comprising concrete or solid masonry, with a minimum thickness of 12 inches, extending a distance of 6 inches beyond the fireplace or foundation wall. Furthermore, these structures should be erected on natural, undisturbed soil or engineered fill material situated below the depth of frost penetration.
📹 Building An Outdoor Fireplace (with tips from a professional mason!)
Building an Outdoor Fireplace (with tips from a professional mason!) #outdoorfireplace #outdoorliving #outdoorfireplacedesign I …
Masonry fireplace can be the best fireplace, and out last everyrhing else!. I still have and use my blue rubble rock, fire brick fireplace, I built 1977. I Never did nothing to it except clean it and tuckpointed the top. I built my flu liner with fire bricks, its never Cracked or decayed. T ile like flu liners do over time. Square tile Flue liners last decades too. You built yours to.specs, awesome job mate!!
I really enjoyed your article! You’re the real deal .I helped my grandpa build fireplaces but it has been 20 years,so I’m trying to refresh. I do remember him using a sponge to smooth out the flue liners and throat. also I was wondering if the two side posts work as the rebar? Otherwise rebar would run from the footing up the chimney, correct?
Great article cant find another like it on YouTube all of the other fireplaces article are outdoor home owner type that do not need to be inspected or comply with Chapter 10. The only thing lacking in your article is it jumps ahead to quickly and we miss the detail on the fire box construction. Can you tell me about the insulation you show I believe it is to rap the damper to space the bricks out I would like to know more as I am going to be building a very similar fire place and the more tips I have the better. Thanks again for posting the article!
I am a mason of over 27 years and this article is awesome, he did not show rebar in the interior portion of the chimney as is should be in every corner at least and continuous all the way up and also I did not hear anything about heat stop refractory mortar as it needs to be used on the fire box and flu all the way up. I would also use Cmu block instead of brick to build a chimney like this because it is faster,less expensive and it getting covered with stone. I am not knocking his article, I am just saying that is this up to code in Oregon but he built a badass fireplace for sure!
Awesome project, and it was designed well to look very good. There is only one slight problem on how the seating and hearth were veneered. The horizontal slab stone should overhang the vertical veneer stone, rather than the vertical stone being in front of the horizontal hearth stone. As it is installed, there is a water penetration joint at that intersection. I understand it is not part of your house, so water intrusion is not a huge concern, but eventually, the water intrusion will damage the mortar holding the vertical veneer stone, and repairs will be necessary, especially after any wet freeze – thaw cycles. Maybe this occurred due to the size of the hearth stone that was used not being wide enough, so something to plan for to avoid this situation.
Nice design but workmanship is unfortunately not top qaulity. I dont mean to sound judgemental but as a journeyman bricklayer myself i command a higher level of qaulity and would love to build this project for anyone who is interested. Im sure this family will enjoy this beautiful fireplace for years to come.
Good idea about “lowering the opening” to the firebox at the last minute. It probably wouldn’t have been a problem for such a massive chimney that draws well, but if there is going to be a smoke problem with a fireplace, many stem from the top (entrance) being too high. Lowering 4 or 5 inches increases draft, and of course, makes it that much harder for any smoke to get out.
OMG that concrete was WAY too wet. It will probably be fine, though. Next time consider renting a mixer. Or HD sells a good 5 cu ft mixer for not much, and when you’re done it will sell quickly on Craigslist. A 5 cu ft mixer will mix two 90 lb bags with water in about ten minutes. Trust me, this is the way to go for DIY projects.
My next door neighbor’s brother died of lung cancer a few years back because he spent a career working with concrete. He was a good Mormon who didn’t smoke…it was all from breathing in cement dust. Also, my wife works for a children’s hospital and they deal with a lot of kids with respiratory issues. It’s heart breaking to see the little ones suffer… Please wear a respirator when dealing with dry concrete. You might be fine for an afternoon of mixing concrete, but seeing kids who are more susceptible to respiratory issues not wearing a mask is a little concerning.
I just bought a house on a golf course and we close Feb 12th and this is going to be the very 1st thing my dad and I are going to do my design is not the same as I have an outdoor kitchen and grill on 1 side of the fireplace and the other side has opening for extra wood. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.